I replaced the flyback in my 1084S-P years ago but I didn't know about some of the calibration steps you showed like setting the B+ voltage so I guess I'll be going back and doing those at some point :) Thanks for the video, it was quite informative!
Yet another 1084s bites the dust. Despite your excellent video and clear instructions, I'm extremely reluctant to attempt this type of repair. And unfortunately I've been unable to find anyone able and willing to attempt the replacement of the Flyback Transformer.
@@TheRetroChannel I took a shot at it myself and so far it's working great. Needed to adjust the Focus and Screen on the Flyback, used a old modelers paint brush, filed down to suit and carefully adjusted whilst keeping myself clear of those nasty voltages. The daughter complained of the hi-frequency tube noise but being a old fart I can only hear it after sitting beside the monitor for 15 minutes or so. So all in all it's been successful. Sharp clear picture, all good. Thanks for the clear concise guide. I doubt I could have accomplished this without it. Subbed in appreciation.
Just did this replacement, and the screen was blurry when brightness turned up (blooming). Turning down brightness control all the way down and contrast all the way up, reduce screen voltage until white text is just barely visible. Then adjust focus for sharpest image. Bring screen voltage up just slightly until brightness control has a good range. Problem solved, no more blooming very sharp text.
A very nice conclusion to the last video. I'm looking forward to you adding a SCART input to the CRT. I have an Amiga 25 pin to SCART cable that I used for about a year when I 1st got my A1200 three years ago. I ran the SCART into one of the small cheap black boxes from China which gives you HDMI out to a flat screen. Now I use an Amiga 25 pin to a 6-pin round plug that goes into a 1084's round RGB inputs. Will switching to a SCART input on my CRT, would I get a better pitcher, or would it be the same as the 6-pin round RGB input? Whay I'm trying to ask is weather the SCART would be better or is it using the same data as the 6-pin round just converted to a SCART input? TY for all the GREAT content you make for the retro community.
Thanks mate. You propably already got the answer from the SCART mod video but no, adding SCART will not make any improvement to the video quality. The DIN and SCART header are wired internally to the same points, the only benefit of adding SCART is the conveinence. And if you do it the way I showed in the other video then you'll be able to hook up anything that uses sync on composite or sync on luma rather than just csync.
My CM8833 was in storage for nearly 30 years. The flyback went shortly after I put it back into the service a couple of years ago. I had it (and several caps, mainly on the power board) replaced but I am 99% positive that it didn't exhibit bloom before like it has since the flyback (HR7506) was replaced. If it did I did not notice it in the couple of months it was working. So I'll be very interested to know if you make any progress with this issue in future.
Yeah, I'll come back to that issue in the future. Dare I say there's no fix for it, but at least we'll be able to know for sure if it is caused by the replacement flybacks
One of my 12 Commodore CRTs, an 1084S that was working fine up until yesterday. I was working with no problems a week ago last time I used my A1200. Then yesterday nothing when I turned it on to play my newest Infocom game on my A1200. Well not nothing. 1. The red power light was not coming on at all. 2. I'm pretty sure I was getting high voltage because the 4 different times I tried I could hear the high pitch spin up when I turned it on and also could hear the wind down when I pressed the power switch to turn it off. I have many spare CRTs so I just swapped it out and played the game that I was looking forward to playing. I have watched a ton of CRT repair videos from you and many other Commodore & retro computer UA-camrs. This is not ringing any bells with the power light not coming on but the high voltage spinning up. Have you ever come across this?
Could still be the flyback, usually it just dies completely but perhaps in this case just one of the lower voltage turns has gone bad. I'd check and see what the B+ voltage looks like. I think it should be 125V for the 1084S, I did show how to do it in one of these videos, might have been in this one
@@TheRetroChannelGood morning and TY for helping me. I went and got my only other 1084S. This 2nd one has been on my list to work on. Its CVBS works with a great picture, but its RGB has always been a black screen (I was thinking since the CVBS works & no RGB video since I bought it that it might be a bad solder joint on the RGB side?). Well as soon as I turned it on the red power light came on and for the 1st time, I noticed the coils glowing orange through the vent slots. Its super early here and the room is dark other than my PC screen, so this is probably why I've never noticed this before. Ok back to the one that has stopped working, like I said the power light is not coming on and when I hear the High voltage wind up, I see no coil glow? Also, today the windup sound is not as loud and stops after 2 seconds. Also, today when I turn it off today the wind down sound is very quiet and only last for the same 2 seconds. F.Y.I. I have 2 fully working 1084, I'm letting you know this and wonder if need be, can we use parts from them for testing?
The easiest thing to try would be swapping the power boards as you can just disconnect the plug going to the main board and the plug for the deguassing coil. It should then slide out, you just need to push in the black clip on the underside of the monitor case. It's sounding more like a bad flyback as all the other voltages are generated from the flyback, and would explain why the heater coils in the neck are not glowing and why the power LED is not working. I'd also check the solder joints for cracks, these boards tend to have bad joints. So check the joints on the flyback, where the neck board connects to the CRT itself, and joints for the connectors
back in 2005 I bought a Sony 34XBR960 TV brand new and it had the same blooming issues and looked out of focus when setting contrast to the desired level, Sent it back for a replacement and the problem was gone, Ive always wondered what part was faulty in the previous unit to cause such symptoms especially out of the box.
My 1084S does have a SCART plug on the back. It came with it, but I notice most 1084S does not have it, it's closed by a plastic shield. What's special with my version?
Nice! I wonder what it is that causes these flybacks to have different image quality? I would have thought if it can maintain the voltage, it would have nothing to do with actual image quality. My perfect 1084s just blew its flyback right in front of me! The dreaded 'scweeeeeeeeee' then the sad missle command sound when turning off 'sqweeee e ee ee e'. What is actually causing that crazy sound when powering off? Has anyone ever repaired a flyback?
Just dug out my old 1084 that had been sitting in the cellar for the past 15 years... it still seems to almost work and it shows the video from the VCR that I feed in via the composite line. However there seem to be around 30 evenly spaced scanlines where the image seems to be too bright (also kind of flickering) and which are vertically offset. Does this kind of behavior point to a specific component that is broken or might need readjustment?
Sounds like vertical foldover but it's hard to tell without seeing it. Google CRT vertical foldover, if the image results look similar to what you're seeing then there's an issue in the vertical deflection circuit.
This is one of things I checked out on all monitors off camera. The B+ varies by about 200mV from black to full white. I think it worked out to be about 0.16% variance, so it seems unlikely to be the root cause. I do have another monitor that uses the same flyback as the 1084S-P1, so we'll find out soon enough if it is the flyback itself or something else
Do you do a warning because i didnt notice sorry. Im am not expert but like your self. I dont do repairs of monitors online, due too the fact i dont want anybody to hurt themself or burn their house down or whatever due to a lack of there understanding of the dangers. Interesting that this may be its 3rd flyback tranny. The one you removed looked stock, so that is puzzeling. But thats just me . I replace the hot regardless as it would be stressed.
People who restore old tech are the heroes we all need
I replaced the flyback in my 1084S-P years ago but I didn't know about some of the calibration steps you showed like setting the B+ voltage so I guess I'll be going back and doing those at some point :) Thanks for the video, it was quite informative!
Great video. I really enjoyed seeing that probe on the HV Line!
Good luck sir, it is an honor for me to be a friend. Hello everyone is a Moroccan. Thank you
They are? I had no idea.
I'm looking forward to seeing that SCART mod.
Yet another 1084s bites the dust. Despite your excellent video and clear instructions, I'm extremely reluctant to attempt this type of repair. And unfortunately I've been unable to find anyone able and willing to attempt the replacement of the Flyback Transformer.
Sorry to hear it Pete. If you want to mention where you're located perhaps somebody will see it and be able to help you out
@@TheRetroChannel Sure thing. I'm on the south side of Brisbane.
Cool, I'm in Canberra so can't help there but you may have some luck if you ask in the ausretro discord server discord.gg/FudkjBbb
@@TheRetroChannel I took a shot at it myself and so far it's working great. Needed to adjust the Focus and Screen on the Flyback, used a old modelers paint brush, filed down to suit and carefully adjusted whilst keeping myself clear of those nasty voltages. The daughter complained of the hi-frequency tube noise but being a old fart I can only hear it after sitting beside the monitor for 15 minutes or so. So all in all it's been successful. Sharp clear picture, all good. Thanks for the clear concise guide. I doubt I could have accomplished this without it. Subbed in appreciation.
@@pete3300 Awesome! Now there is a guy in your area who can do that sort of work 😉
Just did this replacement, and the screen was blurry when brightness turned up (blooming). Turning down brightness control all the way down and contrast all the way up, reduce screen voltage until white text is just barely visible. Then adjust focus for sharpest image. Bring screen voltage up just slightly until brightness control has a good range. Problem solved, no more blooming very sharp text.
Excellent and thanks for sharing!
Could you put the link to part 3 in the description, please?
A very nice conclusion to the last video. I'm looking forward to you adding a SCART input to the CRT. I have an Amiga 25 pin to SCART cable that I used for about a year when I 1st got my A1200 three years ago. I ran the SCART into one of the small cheap black boxes from China which gives you HDMI out to a flat screen. Now I use an Amiga 25 pin to a 6-pin round plug that goes into a 1084's round RGB inputs. Will switching to a SCART input on my CRT, would I get a better pitcher, or would it be the same as the 6-pin round RGB input? Whay I'm trying to ask is weather the SCART would be better or is it using the same data as the 6-pin round just converted to a SCART input? TY for all the GREAT content you make for the retro community.
Thanks mate. You propably already got the answer from the SCART mod video but no, adding SCART will not make any improvement to the video quality. The DIN and SCART header are wired internally to the same points, the only benefit of adding SCART is the conveinence. And if you do it the way I showed in the other video then you'll be able to hook up anything that uses sync on composite or sync on luma rather than just csync.
My CM8833 was in storage for nearly 30 years. The flyback went shortly after I put it back into the service a couple of years ago. I had it (and several caps, mainly on the power board) replaced but I am 99% positive that it didn't exhibit bloom before like it has since the flyback (HR7506) was replaced. If it did I did not notice it in the couple of months it was working. So I'll be very interested to know if you make any progress with this issue in future.
Yeah, I'll come back to that issue in the future. Dare I say there's no fix for it, but at least we'll be able to know for sure if it is caused by the replacement flybacks
One of my 12 Commodore CRTs, an 1084S that was working fine up until yesterday. I was working with no problems a week ago last time I used my A1200. Then yesterday nothing when I turned it on to play my newest Infocom game on my A1200. Well not nothing. 1. The red power light was not coming on at all. 2. I'm pretty sure I was getting high voltage because the 4 different times I tried I could hear the high pitch spin up when I turned it on and also could hear the wind down when I pressed the power switch to turn it off. I have many spare CRTs so I just swapped it out and played the game that I was looking forward to playing. I have watched a ton of CRT repair videos from you and many other Commodore & retro computer UA-camrs. This is not ringing any bells with the power light not coming on but the high voltage spinning up. Have you ever come across this?
Could still be the flyback, usually it just dies completely but perhaps in this case just one of the lower voltage turns has gone bad. I'd check and see what the B+ voltage looks like. I think it should be 125V for the 1084S, I did show how to do it in one of these videos, might have been in this one
@@TheRetroChannelGood morning and TY for helping me. I went and got my only other 1084S. This 2nd one has been on my list to work on. Its CVBS works with a great picture, but its RGB has always been a black screen (I was thinking since the CVBS works & no RGB video since I bought it that it might be a bad solder joint on the RGB side?). Well as soon as I turned it on the red power light came on and for the 1st time, I noticed the coils glowing orange through the vent slots. Its super early here and the room is dark other than my PC screen, so this is probably why I've never noticed this before. Ok back to the one that has stopped working, like I said the power light is not coming on and when I hear the High voltage wind up, I see no coil glow? Also, today the windup sound is not as loud and stops after 2 seconds. Also, today when I turn it off today the wind down sound is very quiet and only last for the same 2 seconds. F.Y.I. I have 2 fully working 1084, I'm letting you know this and wonder if need be, can we use parts from them for testing?
The easiest thing to try would be swapping the power boards as you can just disconnect the plug going to the main board and the plug for the deguassing coil. It should then slide out, you just need to push in the black clip on the underside of the monitor case. It's sounding more like a bad flyback as all the other voltages are generated from the flyback, and would explain why the heater coils in the neck are not glowing and why the power LED is not working. I'd also check the solder joints for cracks, these boards tend to have bad joints. So check the joints on the flyback, where the neck board connects to the CRT itself, and joints for the connectors
back in 2005 I bought a Sony 34XBR960 TV brand new and it had the same blooming issues and looked out of focus when setting contrast to the desired level, Sent it back for a replacement and the problem was gone, Ive always wondered what part was faulty in the previous unit to cause such symptoms especially out of the box.
My 1084S does have a SCART plug on the back. It came with it, but I notice most 1084S does not have it, it's closed by a plastic shield. What's special with my version?
Nice! I wonder what it is that causes these flybacks to have different image quality? I would have thought if it can maintain the voltage, it would have nothing to do with actual image quality.
My perfect 1084s just blew its flyback right in front of me! The dreaded 'scweeeeeeeeee' then the sad missle command sound when turning off 'sqweeee e ee ee e'. What is actually causing that crazy sound when powering off? Has anyone ever repaired a flyback?
Just dug out my old 1084 that had been sitting in the cellar for the past 15 years... it still seems to almost work and it shows the video from the VCR that I feed in via the composite line. However there seem to be around 30 evenly spaced scanlines where the image seems to be too bright (also kind of flickering) and which are vertically offset. Does this kind of behavior point to a specific component that is broken or might need readjustment?
Sounds like vertical foldover but it's hard to tell without seeing it. Google CRT vertical foldover, if the image results look similar to what you're seeing then there's an issue in the vertical deflection circuit.
@21:52 Hey Adrian Black
Id suspect the blooming issue is lack of regulation in the B+ line. Rather than measure the EHT try monitoring the B+ with changes in the image.
This is one of things I checked out on all monitors off camera. The B+ varies by about 200mV from black to full white. I think it worked out to be about 0.16% variance, so it seems unlikely to be the root cause. I do have another monitor that uses the same flyback as the 1084S-P1, so we'll find out soon enough if it is the flyback itself or something else
Do you do a warning because i didnt notice sorry.
Im am not expert but like your self.
I dont do repairs of monitors online, due too the fact i dont want anybody to hurt themself or burn their house down or whatever due to a lack of there understanding of the dangers.
Interesting that this may be its 3rd flyback tranny.
The one you removed looked stock, so that is puzzeling.
But thats just me .
I replace the hot regardless as it would be stressed.