I'd reinforce all those cracks, with strong epoxy. I'd also carefully drill a hole at the end of each branch of the crack to terminate the crack to stop it from cracking further.
That's a great idea with the hole! I just fixed a super valuable Tandy cm-8 that had all these exact problems-even the red I. The top corner. I did epoxy mine, but I'm going to tear him back apart and do this. I think it had 3 cracks and I e found it's way to a hole already. Thanks again for your suggestion
I don't think so... Soldering a jumper wire point to point is not a great work. To do that properlly, he sould scrape away solder mask and solder it along whole damaged distace
I've spent many hours doing convergence and tube replacement on colour monitors, mostly $15K to $30K broadcast monitors... If you think static convergence is difficult wait until you have to do the dynamic convergence! Fun times :) I'd have to say, for never doing a static convergence and the purity magnets before, you did an excellent job, sir!
I always preferred to remove the solder mask all along the crack. Then using solder wick if possible to bridge over the crack. This provides an electrical connection, some rigidity and some flexibility for the board. If solder braid is too large for the trace, then use the largest gauge of hook up wire that will fit. The reason for doing it this way is to make sure I don't miss a cracked trace along the crack. And finally ohm out all of the connections!
I agree. Solder braid is also my preference. Off topic but solder braid has a bad reputation but is my preferred method of de soldering components too. Ppl just don’t know how to use it any more. They try some old crap that’s been laying around and the flux in it is long gone and think it sucks. If anyone is of this opinion i challenge them to apply a drop of fresh flux on the braid before use and it will remove just about any amount of solder on a solder joint like a breeze.
I would have scrapped the solder mask off on both sides of the major cracks, tried to flatten out the PCB so the cracked ends came back together, and then flowed solder to bridge all the breaks and hold the board back together. Would have then added the heavy bodge wires. If that monitor is NOT a Trinitron or similar one gun inline tube then there should be a set of rings on the yoke or neck of the tube that need to be rotated to set purity. This applies to the triad gun (RCA) type of tube. If the thing was dropped those rings could have shifted.
Don’t apologize at the end! That was my favorite video you’ve ever done. Not sure why, probably because it was all business from beginning to end. Also I spent many teenage years with my A500 in front of one of those so they have a very special place in my heart.
I really enjoyed this video format! I don't mind a long video that shows the real process of troubleshooting. I watch these kinds of videos to unwind, and I don't mind if they aren't polished. I like to think it through with you while you do it! Oh, and great work keeping one more CRT out of the landfill!
Those monitors were great value for the money. I remember using one as a TV, as we had a miniature B&W TV (with like a 3.5" tube), but it had composite out. Ran that into by 1084, and we had color TV instead of B&W, and you could actually see what was going on! Fond memories of the 1084 and 1084S.
Amstrad (one of Commodore's big rivals in the U.K. actually sold a Tuner box to convert their monitor into a TV. I was going to suggest you could also use a VCR, but back then they cost more than a C64 and a TV together.
This has been a seriously helpful video, thank you! I've got a nice Tatung multifunction (MDA, CGA, EGA and VGA) monitor that has/had exactly the same issues. It took a nasty drop during shipping and the flyback cracked the PCB. Fixed that and despite my better judgement, did a full recap as a couple were giving issues. But it had colour purity and convergence issues almost identical to whats seen here. I had written the tube off as damaged, and it is in bits half way through a tube swap currently, but having watched this, I'll be reversing that and having a more in depth play with moving the yoke and purity rings. I cannot overstate how much I have learnt from your channel, it is absolutely one of the best out there.
I had an SVGA monitor take a tumble down some (fortunately carpeted) stairs, and although it didn't quit working, it got _way_ out of adjustment. I was hesitant to work on it, not because I didn't know how, but because I had done so enough times to get thrown across the room once. I remember doing a lot of the job with paper tubes and chopsticks. I never did get the convergence completely corrected in the corners.
Another note for those playing along, you should never push on the neck board from the anything other than the center of it. Pushing from the edges, you risk cracking the neck board and you'll be doing a lot more jumpering. All those who have suggested doing epoxy and just scraping the mask off and soldering right at the crack are correct.
Was think the same thing myself as it would help reinforce any gluing afterwards.. I'd also use thicker (solder adhering) and longer metal pieces to bridge the thicker traces as it would help reduce strain and help stop the "bridging" solder from flexing.
The 1080 is a fantastic display and totally worth fixing. I completely lost the red gun on mine a few years ago, and was worried I wouldn't be able to fix it. Turns out, the digital/analog input switch on the rear was all corroded. Taking apart the switch to clean it, polishing the RCA jacks, and lubricating the pot knobs in the front was all it took to get the monitor working almost like new. I have a flicker fixer in my A1200 "just in case", but I still use the 1080 for a display because it looks great.
Some of the early 1080s had longer-duration phosphor which meant that interlace was virtually flicker-free, particularly compared to, say, the 1084. There are obviously plusses and minuses to that but the first A1000 owner I knew got his monitor and system _incredibly_ early and my god, even interlaced mode was beautiful.
That is how we repaired this extremely common failure in the 90s. Epoxy the board literally made of epoxy back together then fiber brush the traces and bridge them with solder. Replace any missing with copper foil tape. Seal the board. Did this a hundred times at least.
@@Stoney3K yeah and the problem is it can crack more as he didn't fix the support piece and have arcing Im very let down on this horrible job i expected better from him I really hope he sees this comment and redo it And fix the support
Nice job Adrian. A tip for you. Scrape the coating on the broken traces, and bridge them where the PCB is broken. Use a stiffer wire and it will stiffen the board and stopping it from flexing. You can also put superglue in the crack. These combined it will make a strong area. I have done this with great results despite the fact that some people say it a big NO-NO on using super glue.
That red wire is monstrously thick, but it's probably the right choice in this case. For low voltage low current stuff I typically use wires from a high quality Cat5e Ethernet cable, their insulation is rated for up to 125VDC. For low voltage high current stuff I use automotive wire rated for 48VDC.
For low voltage low current in an application where I don't have to worry about mechanical stress much, I like using solid-core telephone exchange wire, because there's no fear of a solid wire unraveling and having a whisker cause a short -- they don't have any whiskers. I remember Cat 3 and some really cheap "Cat 5" cables (that never really worked at speed) had the same solid core wires, but more recent cables don't seem so coat-hanger stiff so I suspect they're not solid core anymore.
Hey there from another Portlander! Turns out I made almost exactly this repair last weekend to another 1080 monitor that fell and cracked its PCB. Used some epoxy to repair the case and the shattered PCB, scraped solder mask off traces with a fiberglass pen to bridge the cracks with soldered wires.
Great video, for best results using a degaussing coil start far away and move in circles toward the screen until you are right up next to it. then back away still moving in circles until the coil doesn't affect the picture. Also GC Tools #9317 coil can run much longer, I recommend it. Looking forward to you getting a Coleco Adam computer. 🙂
Awesome video and what a fantastic job AB!! TBH it's fortunate the damage wasn't a LOT worse if it was dropped. I had an old EGA monitor fall off the back of a table and instantly that acrid smell of magic smoke and the telltale sounds of crispyfry(tm) happening inside. So kudos to you AB for doing such a fantastic job on restoring that monitor back. :D
Great repair… took me back to my old days repairing TV, VCRs and Microwaves way back in the day. I had to do a similar repair to a Sony TV I am glad you got it fix.
Woah, I've never seen a circuit board crack like that from a drop before. Must of been a nasty fall. Rest of the monitor took it pretty well! Great repair, well done & nice video. Thank you!
I had a 1080 PCB crack just like that after a drop from a desk-height shelf, about 3 feet maybe? It hit a thin carpet over a basement floor. Not the best thing to happen to it.
The flyback is very heavy, and board materials vary. From what I've seen, it seems like even cheap boards these days tend to use a more rugged fiberglass than back when this monitor was made.
I got rid of my Amiga in the mid 90's like almost everyone else but I kept the monitor, I had that thing hooked up to a DVD player, good picture, stereo speakers and I thought it was unkillable. It finally went toes up about 6 years ago...it was like losing a family member.
I had a Commodore 1902 back in the day, it was just a crippled 1080 but I soldered in the missing wires to make it Amiga compatible. I have a working 1080 now. Nice fix.
That's nice you got it going again. Eventually the board should be glued back together, and the traces fixed permanently. You can use super glue to put the board together, and then bridge the cracks using 0 ohm surface mount resistors.
I've had this monitor since 86 when I got my Amiga 1000 and have picked up many other model monitors from Commodore over the years and the 1080 seems to have a kind of blurry composite video compared to other commodore monitors, even the 2002. RGB is fantastic though. I first discovered this when I connected my Commodore 64 to it.
I,ve a commodre 2000 and a 1081 monitor and want to hopfully get it up and running again, after 30+ years it's been in my loft and have found yours and many more sites very usefull.
When I was in grad school I had to repair the PCB of an ancient spectrophotometer that the board had cracked like this. We used some binary epoxy to cover up the crack and add some strength, and then had to bodge dozens of traces. The damn thing worked perfectly when we were done, though!
Nice save of that screen. I think you did just fine with the hot glue. It's not like you can protect it from everything that might happen in it's life. So if it gets dropped again, it's up to the next repair person to then fix it. 43:55: I love this shot with the mirror and how we can see you through the mirror. And neat to see you looking at the camera when you talk to us, even if you're not in the picture.
I have one similar to this, it’s Commodore Branded in the front and I believe the model # is 2002. It’s one of the best versions of this body styled monitor IIR. I remember buying all the commodore branded cables for it back in 2014 or so.
15:04 A good trick for that is to twist the end of the wire(the metal strands), that makes it harder for the strands to spread, also minimizes the chance of a strand sticking to somewhere it shouldn't.
So that black soot is a sign of high hours? Found some in the 1995 Apple color 14" monitor I cleaned up recently. This is the kind of repair I enjoy, bodging busted bits back together! In some ways, the easiest kind of fix. Funny thing, the first time I turned it on I got a power LED and a screen-flash when turning it off, but after plugging it in to my Performa 475 it wouldn't show any activity, not even power-LED, unless the Mac was also on! Weird. This Amiga CRT is still in better shape than my Amstrad-clone monitor/power-supply that was EOL'd/stripped for scrap by the PC shop somebody dropped it off at! Huge holes in the case, heat-sinks ripped out along with their attached components and chunks of the PCB! Still fixable, I think, as I have the schematics, just need to find some rare/obsolete replacement parts.
I have one like this and have had it for 30+ years. It's a versatile and useful display for composite AND 15khz arcade monitors. I recapped mine totally which restored it to 100% like new function. I cleaned and resoldered the flyback while I had it apart, but they can't be beat. Mine has audio also.
I still have my 1080, that I got for free exactly 15 years ago (2007). It was given to me by another user at Lemon64. Actually he had several monitors he wanted to give away, but I didn't have space so I wanted the best one. So through correspondence, he sent me photos of the same C64 screen on each monitor & I found the 1080 had the sharpest. We worked out a way to get that monitor to me so we met up at a parking lot as he said he was going through different cities anyway. Iirc, one of the other monitors was a 1084s & yet the photo I saw of it was a little poorer than the 1080, so whatever the case if the 1084 & 1080 are closely related, even if possibly different tube manufacturers, I went by what my eyes saw. It makes sense that the 1080 is sharp, given that it was designed for Amigas. To this day I've mainly used it for vcr's & c64's. The other reason I got the 1080 was to replace a Magnavox cm8702 that I had been using for my c64 since the early 1990's which then died by around 2010 or so, iirc, so this was a nice overlap. I still have that Magnavox so I will be troubleshooting that eventually. So far I've seen like a blown cap, but I'm not sure, I don't have a scope nor an esr meter, but I did acquire the 8702 service manual via eBay.
That video reminds me on an Television that i have found on the Street, back in 1997 or so, with a broken Neckboard, and yes i fixed it. Thank you for that great Video.
I really miss the 13" composite monitor I used on my C64. Or that Dell 21" Trinitron beast where a cap most definitely blew but I didn't have the courage to attempt a fix back then. Sure LCDs are nice because they're thin and light, but most can't compete with the standard refresh rates of low end CRTs.
Great video, good result. Just a point about auto degauss posistors. The idea is it’s low resistance when cold, and applies a voltage to the coil that diminishes as it heats up. You had powered the monitor face down, and although the flyback was not connected, the degauss was. Degauss happens with respect to the earth’s magnetic field. So if it degaussed face first, and the posistor stayed hot, no further degauss would occur. This means as you sit it back upright it’s no longer degaussed with respect to the earth. Leave the set off for 15 mins or so, then try again. I also recommend to use some epoxy resin to fix the the cracked pcb and stop and further spread. But that said, well done. Another one saved :)
Keep in mind once you get above several hundred volts, you want to keep the joints clean and smooth to minimize the possibility of arcing. There is a special paint called “Glyptal” that can be used to coat connections that may need a little extra protection. The other suggestions regarding stop-drilling the cracks and scraping the solder mask before soldering across the cracks are good as well.
There shouldn’t be anything on that board higher than a couple hundred volts. The really HV is all through the anode, and that’s a sealed cable straight from the flyback.
I've repaired some cracked PCBs , strengthened the PCB by expoxying strips of PCB material over the cracks, before adding jumper wires, for a more "permanent" repair.
2:16 the metal plate is for the Amiga 1000. Some of these monitors did not have it and caused the machine to have read/write errors! I discovered this because I was having errors on one of my Amiga 1000's with one of my 1080's and when I swapped monitors the errors went away. I then noticed this metal plate under it!
Yeah a bunch of US Commodore monitors looked just like this, but often the manufacturer was not the same. 1080, 1902, 1084, etc. I think there were at least 3 companies making these that externally looked the same.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I wish now that I would have kept it. It developed some type of short inside or the flyback was arcing. I tossed it out, but with what skills I have now, I'm sure I could have fixed the thing.
I did the same repair to a badly cracked board under the flyback in an RCA 14in flat TV that was mishandled in shipping. (It was a bummer because it was actually packed pretty well.) I was floored when it actually worked!
Regarding the ripple: Look for a small value capacitor in series with the horizontal scan coils. It is likely in parallel with a resistor. The purpose of this is to create an LRC circuit to counteract ringing caused by the inductance of the energized coils at scan frequency. The ringing effectively means that the cathode beam(s) are moved at a non-constant pace, causing small ripples in brightness. Since many of the traces around the flyback have been repaired, you're also affecting the "ringing" to a small degree as well.
My A1080 is the same vintage. Something inside used to arc ocassionally, resetting the Amiga unless the video cable shield ground was connected. The horizontal drive eventually failed.
I had a C= 1960 multisync as a kid shipped to me,outside looked perfect,but board inside was cracked in 2 pieces across the middle.. I actually epoxied the board back together and jumpered all the traces back together with wire. It still works today but was a crazy amount of work.. Things u do when you are poor.
I had to do pretty much the same work with both my Sony Trinitron TVs, the effects of mis-handling by a courier breaking stuff in transit with the flyback being jostled about and cracking the PCB, took some time to repair the damage, and both TVs worked perfect after repairs (21" needed other work, possibly lightning or power surge damaged), the joys of resin-bonded paper PCBs, they're just not suited for mechanical strength...
That ringing on the left side of the sweep could be an issue with the flyback. If the bit that broke off in the brace was part of the core, it could be slightly detuned now.
I had a bunch of TTY terminals that used an off the shelf CRT module produced by Zenith and it was VERY common for the flyback ferrites to be cracked, and there would be ringing fold over in the picture as a result.
Doesn't that usually make the flyback whine audibly in use though? I think Adrian said he can still hear the 15.5 kHz H-sync, so if the coil was complaining, he probably would have noticed.
Don't be too confused about the color impurities. It happens immediately if you are putting a CRT on it's side....just takes an hour or so to disappear, even without a degaussing coil....I've had that myself. On monitors and TV sets. Hope that helps!
Nice video Adrian, I love the troubleshooting part of the videos, watching an experienced electronics guy show in understandable terms for a novice is soo helpful. Obviously as a novice I don't recommend novices to play about with 26KV devices, unless they have triple checked about discharging the item, seeing if it's fitted with a bleeder resistor etc etc...HV can do big damage to a heart etc. Apart from that, have to agree with the general consensus of scraping the mask off and basically welding the PCB on both sides. But hey, what do I know :)
I agree with patching up the wide traces with some solder braid, but _also_ leave the jumper wires in place and only rely on the solder braid for mechanical reinforcement. Then you only have to patch the wide ones, there's no mechanical point to patching something half a millimeter wide.
Hey Adrian, do you know about "fiberglass scratchbrush"? They're a rod of compacted, parallel lines of fiberglass in like a lipstick container. They work great for removing corrosion in tight areas, but also for removing soldermask without damaging the copper underneath (unless you REALLY work hard). They save a ton of time, just gotta wipe with a napkin every few swipes (or do it under alcohol) so the fibers don't go everywhere as they break off. Super useful stuff for doing rework, and dirt cheap (most pens come with a second/spare fiberglass rod in the handle)
Yes, he has used them in previous videos. He probably would have used one if he had decided to patch the traces for mechanical reinforcement, but since he didn't, it didn't really come up.
@@mal2ksc Yeah it was a hell of a repair too! I do worry about it being so 'floppy' and more damage occurring. But that really was a painful repair to watch, probably because I've had to do similar and hated every second of it! His work has gotten so good recently, one of the few resto/repair channels I can watch. Dude loves his old puters and puts in the blood sweat and tears to really pull amazing repairs out of thin air. Hard not to enjoy watching someone passionate about their work.
In some materials, such as metal or glass, you can arrest a crack by drilling a circular hole just in front of its path. It eliminates the tear in progress by spreading forces evenly. I would think it would work well on a PCB, if there is room for a hole.
The ringing could be caused by pick up from the white wires as the pass close to the LOPT( line output transformer).I use to be a TV engineer and a common issue with ringing was due to a damping resistor across the line linearity coil. They would go high in value causing the lin coil to ring which would show visibly on the screen.
@Adrian's Digital Basement ][ SuperGlue! Fill those cracks with SuperGlue and once cured go over it all a second time. SuperGlue's natural wicking action will work it's way into all the cracks and fibers of the PCB and create a very strong bond. Been using SuperGlue for these kinds of repairs for years and it works wonders!
This trick is pretty obvious and well known to experienced bench technicians. You can test a capacitor already soldered in place without completely removing it by either cutting the lead on one side or desoldering one lead out of circuit, then do an ESR check on the cap.
There is no perfect convergence on a CRT however there is a grid that is overlaid on screen that you measure the convergence grid to. Just eye balling it won't work. Not that you can't get close to specs with the eye but you need the grid overlay to get it perfect. But definitely good enough. I once did a convergence on a old rear projection TV and that was a nightmare. 3 CRTs for each color. I hand ruled the grid with dry erase marker and after a few hours it became a "good enough job"
Ah that makes sense -- would allow them to make quick work of it all. I'm sure they got really good at on the assembly line, even though it was mostly just "good enough" :-)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Apparently I wasn't completely correct. I was going off a old rear projector that mentioned a grid assembly. for the tub it self you could get this tool. I will see what I can dig up. ua-cam.com/video/DGzS3IhifRE/v-deo.html
It's a shame we didn't see you move the wedges and yoke around. That was - in my opinion - the hardest part of this repair to tweak that picture. I wouldn't know how to perform that part of the operation. I did find the interpretation of the schematics in conjunction with the oscilloscope educational, though, because CRTs aren't trivial for a novice retro repair enthusiast.
There have to be hundreds of 1080s out there that are too worn out or damaged to be good for much except salvaging the very circuitboard you need replaced, but unfortunately they're probably all buried in a landfill already. Still, something for your viewers to keep in mind in case they ever find one with a hopelessly worn out tube.
the way i have done Cracks in tv in the past was to remove the parts from the area and Epoxy the PCB. then fix the tracks and add the components back. it is then unlikely to Re-Crack again.
Nice repair, but you made your life harder than needed. Use a small drill bit to stop the cracks at the end. Stabilise the pcb temporarily with hot glue. Then use those fibre glass pencils to remove the solder mask, flux the copper and use solder to jump the cracks. Wire wrap wire to jump thin traces. Test, fix anything you missed then Epoxy the crack with non metallised epoxy. As mentioned below the flyback core may be damaged. Shango66 covers this with the self destructing Sonys.
Try shining a bright LED (like the flashlight on your phone) behind the PCB, makes all the cracks really pop out (even small hairline ones, that are easy to miss).
In UK we never had that shielding also these monitors I have seen several with PCB damage as LOPT is heavy and not supported. Glue (epoxy) the PCB back together first as flexing will cause new problems.
I would epoxy the board and then remove the paint and solder bridge the traces. Use slow curing epoxy or UV stuff whichever is stronger. Maybe desolder components first for better access. After the repair you could put a new layer of paint on the traces. Makes it look cleaner. Since it is only single sided you might be able to make a new board and check and move the parts.
Love your videos! I have my original Commodore monitor (no model # on it, so probably the 1080 like this one?) Mine has rainbow coloring in the corners, so probably similar problem, I suppose. I just need to find a degaussing tool, or find out why the internal one doesn't work on power-on? Thanks again for your hard work and sharing with the community!!!
Yeah, I'd be that plate is EMF shielding. I remember inadvertently corrupting more than one floppy disk by leaving them on the little self under my old monitor stand.
I really need to get my 1080 working. It's got lots of screen burn, and a "control panel" sticker across the top, but it would be nice to see it fire up.
If the image ripple is caused by a bad capacitor I would suspect one of the power rail caps charged directly off the flyback. I believe these are the ones which are subjected to the most ripple.
I'd suggest crazy glue for the cracks as it's plenty strong and is thin so will (and is designed to) go in by capillary action and seal anerobically (word?)... :) Just put very small amounts on all the cracks, you can open the cracks slightly as applying if you like, or probably don't even need to do that.
![Adrian's Digital Basement ][](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_k7CrQRe71qN6c0Ua7A1P_I8KkxjqLa70u0zYeCvdvnKw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
I'd reinforce all those cracks, with strong epoxy. I'd also carefully drill a hole at the end of each branch of the crack to terminate the crack to stop it from cracking further.
I would like to see this done!
If you guys weren't aware, this is how they stop cracks from running in windshields.
Definitely dont use hot glue to reinforce as the glue tends to soften when the internal temperatures heat up.
@@bennetfox Also in steel! Had to do this on a cracked crankcase lol.
That's a great idea with the hole! I just fixed a super valuable Tandy cm-8 that had all these exact problems-even the red I. The top corner. I did epoxy mine, but I'm going to tear him back apart and do this. I think it had 3 cracks and I e found it's way to a hole already. Thanks again for your suggestion
Great work, as always!
I don't think so... Soldering a jumper wire point to point is not a great work. To do that properlly, he sould scrape away solder mask and solder it along whole damaged distace
I've spent many hours doing convergence and tube replacement on colour monitors, mostly $15K to $30K broadcast monitors...
If you think static convergence is difficult wait until you have to do the dynamic convergence! Fun times :)
I'd have to say, for never doing a static convergence and the purity magnets before, you did an excellent job, sir!
I always preferred to remove the solder mask all along the crack. Then using solder wick if possible to bridge over the crack. This provides an electrical connection, some rigidity and some flexibility for the board. If solder braid is too large for the trace, then use the largest gauge of hook up wire that will fit. The reason for doing it this way is to make sure I don't miss a cracked trace along the crack. And finally ohm out all of the connections!
From a novice POV, this sounds like the logical choice just for the rigidity alone..
Fill the crack with crazy glue...
I agree. Solder braid is also my preference. Off topic but solder braid has a bad reputation but is my preferred method of de soldering components too. Ppl just don’t know how to use it any more. They try some old crap that’s been laying around and the flux in it is long gone and think it sucks. If anyone is of this opinion i challenge them to apply a drop of fresh flux on the braid before use and it will remove just about any amount of solder on a solder joint like a breeze.
@@pederb82 : I think the bigger problem was that some braid (Radio Shack, as I recall, so pretty common) came with _no_ flux at all.
@@absalomdraconis 🤦
Suggest finding the very ends of the cracks and drilling a hole there so that the cracks cannot grow further.
I would have scrapped the solder mask off on both sides of the major cracks, tried to flatten out the PCB so the cracked ends came back together, and then flowed solder to bridge all the breaks and hold the board back together. Would have then added the heavy bodge wires.
If that monitor is NOT a Trinitron or similar one gun inline tube then there should be a set of rings on the yoke or neck of the tube that need to be rotated to set purity. This applies to the triad gun (RCA) type of tube. If the thing was dropped those rings could have shifted.
Don’t apologize at the end! That was my favorite video you’ve ever done. Not sure why, probably because it was all business from beginning to end. Also I spent many teenage years with my A500 in front of one of those so they have a very special place in my heart.
I really enjoyed this video format! I don't mind a long video that shows the real process of troubleshooting. I watch these kinds of videos to unwind, and I don't mind if they aren't polished. I like to think it through with you while you do it! Oh, and great work keeping one more CRT out of the landfill!
Those monitors were great value for the money. I remember using one as a TV, as we had a miniature B&W TV (with like a 3.5" tube), but it had composite out. Ran that into by 1084, and we had color TV instead of B&W, and you could actually see what was going on!
Fond memories of the 1084 and 1084S.
Amstrad (one of Commodore's big rivals in the U.K. actually sold a Tuner box to convert their monitor into a TV. I was going to suggest you could also use a VCR, but back then they cost more than a C64 and a TV together.
This has been a seriously helpful video, thank you!
I've got a nice Tatung multifunction (MDA, CGA, EGA and VGA) monitor that has/had exactly the same issues. It took a nasty drop during shipping and the flyback cracked the PCB. Fixed that and despite my better judgement, did a full recap as a couple were giving issues.
But it had colour purity and convergence issues almost identical to whats seen here. I had written the tube off as damaged, and it is in bits half way through a tube swap currently, but having watched this, I'll be reversing that and having a more in depth play with moving the yoke and purity rings.
I cannot overstate how much I have learnt from your channel, it is absolutely one of the best out there.
I had an SVGA monitor take a tumble down some (fortunately carpeted) stairs, and although it didn't quit working, it got _way_ out of adjustment. I was hesitant to work on it, not because I didn't know how, but because I had done so enough times to get thrown across the room once. I remember doing a lot of the job with paper tubes and chopsticks. I never did get the convergence completely corrected in the corners.
Another note for those playing along, you should never push on the neck board from the anything other than the center of it. Pushing from the edges, you risk cracking the neck board and you'll be doing a lot more jumpering. All those who have suggested doing epoxy and just scraping the mask off and soldering right at the crack are correct.
Was think the same thing myself as it would help reinforce any gluing afterwards.. I'd also use thicker (solder adhering) and longer metal pieces to bridge the thicker traces as it would help reduce strain and help stop the "bridging" solder from flexing.
Videos like this really just let me kick back, press play and enjoy a relaxing dinner, which is the exact thing I needed today.
As damaged as that was, I’m most impressed the power switch is functional… all of mine have failed.
The 1080 is a fantastic display and totally worth fixing. I completely lost the red gun on mine a few years ago, and was worried I wouldn't be able to fix it. Turns out, the digital/analog input switch on the rear was all corroded. Taking apart the switch to clean it, polishing the RCA jacks, and lubricating the pot knobs in the front was all it took to get the monitor working almost like new. I have a flicker fixer in my A1200 "just in case", but I still use the 1080 for a display because it looks great.
I like this point camera and get to fixing format. Don't feel too pressured for editing here on ][.
Most expressive hands in the business.
Some of the early 1080s had longer-duration phosphor which meant that interlace was virtually flicker-free, particularly compared to, say, the 1084. There are obviously plusses and minuses to that but the first A1000 owner I knew got his monitor and system _incredibly_ early and my god, even interlaced mode was beautiful.
I guess the other way to do this would be to epoxy the board back together, then scrape off some solder mask and solder over the broken parts.
Yes that would have been the correct way
What he did wasn't good took longer and looks horrible
Either way the pcb should have been glued back
That is how we repaired this extremely common failure in the 90s. Epoxy the board literally made of epoxy back together then fiber brush the traces and bridge them with solder. Replace any missing with copper foil tape. Seal the board. Did this a hundred times at least.
That would have been my idea as well. Soldering the cracked traces back together would also make the board more solid again.
Adds mechanical strength too.
@@Stoney3K yeah and the problem is it can crack more as he didn't fix the support piece and have arcing
Im very let down on this horrible job i expected better from him
I really hope he sees this comment and redo it
And fix the support
My 1080, which was manufacturer in November of 1985, is still going strong.
Nice job Adrian. A tip for you. Scrape the coating on the broken traces, and bridge them where the PCB is broken. Use a stiffer wire and it will stiffen the board and stopping it from flexing. You can also put superglue in the crack. These combined it will make a strong area. I have done this with great results despite the fact that some people say it a big NO-NO on using super glue.
That red wire is monstrously thick, but it's probably the right choice in this case. For low voltage low current stuff I typically use wires from a high quality Cat5e Ethernet cable, their insulation is rated for up to 125VDC. For low voltage high current stuff I use automotive wire rated for 48VDC.
For low voltage low current in an application where I don't have to worry about mechanical stress much, I like using solid-core telephone exchange wire, because there's no fear of a solid wire unraveling and having a whisker cause a short -- they don't have any whiskers. I remember Cat 3 and some really cheap "Cat 5" cables (that never really worked at speed) had the same solid core wires, but more recent cables don't seem so coat-hanger stiff so I suspect they're not solid core anymore.
@@mal2ksc I agree, solid core wire is better sometimes.
Hey there from another Portlander! Turns out I made almost exactly this repair last weekend to another 1080 monitor that fell and cracked its PCB. Used some epoxy to repair the case and the shattered PCB, scraped solder mask off traces with a fiberglass pen to bridge the cracks with soldered wires.
Great video, for best results using a degaussing coil start far away and move in circles toward the screen until you are right up next to it. then back away still moving in circles until the coil doesn't affect the picture. Also GC Tools #9317 coil can run much longer, I recommend it. Looking forward to you getting a Coleco Adam computer. 🙂
Awesome video and what a fantastic job AB!! TBH it's fortunate the damage wasn't a LOT worse if it was dropped. I had an old EGA monitor fall off the back of a table and instantly that acrid smell of magic smoke and the telltale sounds of crispyfry(tm) happening inside. So kudos to you AB for doing such a fantastic job on restoring that monitor back. :D
Great repair… took me back to my old days repairing TV, VCRs and Microwaves way back in the day. I had to do a similar repair to a Sony TV I am glad you got it fix.
Woah, I've never seen a circuit board crack like that from a drop before. Must of been a nasty fall. Rest of the monitor took it pretty well! Great repair, well done & nice video. Thank you!
I had a 1080 PCB crack just like that after a drop from a desk-height shelf, about 3 feet maybe? It hit a thin carpet over a basement floor. Not the best thing to happen to it.
The flyback is very heavy, and board materials vary. From what I've seen, it seems like even cheap boards these days tend to use a more rugged fiberglass than back when this monitor was made.
Wow what a great video. Monitor repair tour de force!
I got rid of my Amiga in the mid 90's like almost everyone else but I kept the monitor, I had that thing hooked up to a DVD player, good picture, stereo speakers and I thought it was unkillable. It finally went toes up about 6 years ago...it was like losing a family member.
I loved my 1084 which i also used as a TV using the tuner in my Hitachi VHS.
It's like you are fighting entropy... And winning Adrian!
I had a Commodore 1902 back in the day, it was just a crippled 1080 but I soldered in the missing wires to make it Amiga compatible. I have a working 1080 now. Nice fix.
could you explain what you did to make a 1902 amiga compatible?
That's nice you got it going again. Eventually the board should be glued back together, and the traces fixed permanently. You can use super glue to put the board together, and then bridge the cracks using 0 ohm surface mount resistors.
I've had this monitor since 86 when I got my Amiga 1000 and have picked up many other model monitors from Commodore over the years and the 1080 seems to have a kind of blurry composite video compared to other commodore monitors, even the 2002. RGB is fantastic though. I first discovered this when I connected my Commodore 64 to it.
I,ve a commodre 2000 and a 1081 monitor and want to hopfully get it up and running again, after 30+ years it's been in my loft and have found yours and many more sites very usefull.
Great work, i absolutely liked "metallurgic" aproach on fixing a broken board :) very entertaining video, thumbs up!
When I was in grad school I had to repair the PCB of an ancient spectrophotometer that the board had cracked like this. We used some binary epoxy to cover up the crack and add some strength, and then had to bodge dozens of traces. The damn thing worked perfectly when we were done, though!
Nice save of that screen. I think you did just fine with the hot glue. It's not like you can protect it from everything that might happen in it's life. So if it gets dropped again, it's up to the next repair person to then fix it.
43:55: I love this shot with the mirror and how we can see you through the mirror. And neat to see you looking at the camera when you talk to us, even if you're not in the picture.
I have one similar to this, it’s Commodore Branded in the front and I believe the model # is 2002. It’s one of the best versions of this body styled monitor IIR. I remember buying all the commodore branded cables for it back in 2014 or so.
Once again, Adrian amazes us!
For some reason Red Green show came to mind while you did this repair .. hehe. Nice job and thanks for the video.
15:04 A good trick for that is to twist the end of the wire(the metal strands), that makes it harder for the strands to spread, also minimizes the chance of a strand sticking to somewhere it shouldn't.
So that black soot is a sign of high hours? Found some in the 1995 Apple color 14" monitor I cleaned up recently.
This is the kind of repair I enjoy, bodging busted bits back together! In some ways, the easiest kind of fix.
Funny thing, the first time I turned it on I got a power LED and a screen-flash when turning it off, but after plugging it in to my Performa 475 it wouldn't show any activity, not even power-LED, unless the Mac was also on! Weird.
This Amiga CRT is still in better shape than my Amstrad-clone monitor/power-supply that was EOL'd/stripped for scrap by the PC shop somebody dropped it off at!
Huge holes in the case, heat-sinks ripped out along with their attached components and chunks of the PCB!
Still fixable, I think, as I have the schematics, just need to find some rare/obsolete replacement parts.
I have one like this and have had it for 30+ years. It's a versatile and useful display for composite AND 15khz arcade monitors. I recapped mine totally which restored it to 100% like new function. I cleaned and resoldered the flyback while I had it apart, but they can't be beat. Mine has audio also.
I still have my 1080, that I got for free exactly 15 years ago (2007). It was given to me by another user at Lemon64. Actually he had several monitors he wanted to give away, but I didn't have space so I wanted the best one. So through correspondence, he sent me photos of the same C64 screen on each monitor & I found the 1080 had the sharpest. We worked out a way to get that monitor to me so we met up at a parking lot as he said he was going through different cities anyway. Iirc, one of the other monitors was a 1084s & yet the photo I saw of it was a little poorer than the 1080, so whatever the case if the 1084 & 1080 are closely related, even if possibly different tube manufacturers, I went by what my eyes saw. It makes sense that the 1080 is sharp, given that it was designed for Amigas. To this day I've mainly used it for vcr's & c64's. The other reason I got the 1080 was to replace a Magnavox cm8702 that I had been using for my c64 since the early 1990's which then died by around 2010 or so, iirc, so this was a nice overlap. I still have that Magnavox so I will be troubleshooting that eventually. So far I've seen like a blown cap, but I'm not sure, I don't have a scope nor an esr meter, but I did acquire the 8702 service manual via eBay.
A classic! That vaguely bulbous shape sitting on a 1000 was part of my childhood.
That video reminds me on an Television that i have found on the Street, back in 1997 or so, with a broken Neckboard, and yes i fixed it. Thank you for that great Video.
I really miss the 13" composite monitor I used on my C64. Or that Dell 21" Trinitron beast where a cap most definitely blew but I didn't have the courage to attempt a fix back then. Sure LCDs are nice because they're thin and light, but most can't compete with the standard refresh rates of low end CRTs.
Great video, good result. Just a point about auto degauss posistors. The idea is it’s low resistance when cold, and applies a voltage to the coil that diminishes as it heats up. You had powered the monitor face down, and although the flyback was not connected, the degauss was. Degauss happens with respect to the earth’s magnetic field. So if it degaussed face first, and the posistor stayed hot, no further degauss would occur. This means as you sit it back upright it’s no longer degaussed with respect to the earth. Leave the set off for 15 mins or so, then try again. I also recommend to use some epoxy resin to fix the the cracked pcb and stop and further spread. But that said, well done. Another one saved :)
Keep in mind once you get above several hundred volts, you want to keep the joints clean and smooth to minimize the possibility of arcing. There is a special paint called “Glyptal” that can be used to coat connections that may need a little extra protection. The other suggestions regarding stop-drilling the cracks and scraping the solder mask before soldering across the cracks are good as well.
There shouldn’t be anything on that board higher than a couple hundred volts. The really HV is all through the anode, and that’s a sealed cable straight from the flyback.
I've repaired some cracked PCBs , strengthened the PCB by expoxying strips of PCB material over the cracks, before adding jumper wires, for a more "permanent" repair.
2:16 the metal plate is for the Amiga 1000. Some of these monitors did not have it and caused the machine to have read/write errors! I discovered this because I was having errors on one of my Amiga 1000's with one of my 1080's and when I swapped monitors the errors went away. I then noticed this metal plate under it!
My old Commodore 1902 I had for years looked IDENTICAL to this monitor. Never took it apart, but externally, only the badging was different.
Yeah a bunch of US Commodore monitors looked just like this, but often the manufacturer was not the same. 1080, 1902, 1084, etc. I think there were at least 3 companies making these that externally looked the same.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I wish now that I would have kept it. It developed some type of short inside or the flyback was arcing. I tossed it out, but with what skills I have now, I'm sure I could have fixed the thing.
You resurrected that bad Larry! Nice job!
The 1080 up until the 1084S was Mono. The 1084S was the first to connect stereo speakers to the Amiga stereo output.
I did the same repair to a badly cracked board under the flyback in an RCA 14in flat TV that was mishandled in shipping. (It was a bummer because it was actually packed pretty well.) I was floored when it actually worked!
Regarding the ripple: Look for a small value capacitor in series with the horizontal scan coils. It is likely in parallel with a resistor. The purpose of this is to create an LRC circuit to counteract ringing caused by the inductance of the energized coils at scan frequency. The ringing effectively means that the cathode beam(s) are moved at a non-constant pace, causing small ripples in brightness. Since many of the traces around the flyback have been repaired, you're also affecting the "ringing" to a small degree as well.
I haven't looked at the schematics but I would suspect the S capacitors are film capacitors.
My A1080 is the same vintage. Something inside used to arc ocassionally, resetting the Amiga unless the video cable shield ground was connected. The horizontal drive eventually failed.
My friends and I have been using hemostats for years. You always found them for sale at the computer shows/flee markets during the 80s and 90s
I had a C= 1960 multisync as a kid shipped to me,outside looked perfect,but board inside was cracked in 2 pieces across the middle.. I actually epoxied the board back together and jumpered all the traces back together with wire. It still works today but was a crazy amount of work.. Things u do when you are poor.
I had to do pretty much the same work with both my Sony Trinitron TVs, the effects of mis-handling by a courier breaking stuff in transit with the flyback being jostled about and cracking the PCB, took some time to repair the damage, and both TVs worked perfect after repairs (21" needed other work, possibly lightning or power surge damaged), the joys of resin-bonded paper PCBs, they're just not suited for mechanical strength...
0:47 Looks like an soldering iron mark... I had plenty of these on my monitors during a period.
Me too !
Wow just ty for restoring it
That ringing on the left side of the sweep could be an issue with the flyback. If the bit that broke off in the brace was part of the core, it could be slightly detuned now.
I had a bunch of TTY terminals that used an off the shelf CRT module produced by Zenith and it was VERY common for the flyback ferrites to be cracked, and there would be ringing fold over in the picture as a result.
Doesn't that usually make the flyback whine audibly in use though? I think Adrian said he can still hear the 15.5 kHz H-sync, so if the coil was complaining, he probably would have noticed.
Don't be too confused about the color impurities. It happens immediately if you are putting a CRT on it's side....just takes an hour or so to disappear, even without a degaussing coil....I've had that myself. On monitors and TV sets. Hope that helps!
Nice video Adrian, I love the troubleshooting part of the videos, watching an experienced electronics guy show in understandable terms for a novice is soo helpful. Obviously as a novice I don't recommend novices to play about with 26KV devices, unless they have triple checked about discharging the item, seeing if it's fitted with a bleeder resistor etc etc...HV can do big damage to a heart etc. Apart from that, have to agree with the general consensus of scraping the mask off and basically welding the PCB on both sides. But hey, what do I know :)
I agree with patching up the wide traces with some solder braid, but _also_ leave the jumper wires in place and only rely on the solder braid for mechanical reinforcement. Then you only have to patch the wide ones, there's no mechanical point to patching something half a millimeter wide.
This one was great!! Nicely done
That extension lead may only cut the positive, neutral is probably still there. And if wired incorrectly maybe the positive.
Hey Adrian, do you know about "fiberglass scratchbrush"? They're a rod of compacted, parallel lines of fiberglass in like a lipstick container. They work great for removing corrosion in tight areas, but also for removing soldermask without damaging the copper underneath (unless you REALLY work hard). They save a ton of time, just gotta wipe with a napkin every few swipes (or do it under alcohol) so the fibers don't go everywhere as they break off. Super useful stuff for doing rework, and dirt cheap (most pens come with a second/spare fiberglass rod in the handle)
Yes, he has used them in previous videos. He probably would have used one if he had decided to patch the traces for mechanical reinforcement, but since he didn't, it didn't really come up.
@@mal2ksc Yeah it was a hell of a repair too! I do worry about it being so 'floppy' and more damage occurring. But that really was a painful repair to watch, probably because I've had to do similar and hated every second of it! His work has gotten so good recently, one of the few resto/repair channels I can watch. Dude loves his old puters and puts in the blood sweat and tears to really pull amazing repairs out of thin air. Hard not to enjoy watching someone passionate about their work.
Adrian’s Bodge Lodge
LOL! 😂
No a real bodge needs a paperclip
Adrian's Bodge City?
Also, "methological" = methodical + mythological.
Adrian’s metho-logical dance party?
In some materials, such as metal or glass, you can arrest a crack by drilling a circular hole just in front of its path. It eliminates the tear in progress by spreading forces evenly. I would think it would work well on a PCB, if there is room for a hole.
The ringing could be caused by pick up from the white wires as the pass close to the LOPT( line output transformer).I use to be a TV engineer and a common issue with ringing was due to a damping resistor across the line linearity coil. They would go high in value causing the lin coil to ring which would show visibly on the screen.
@Adrian's Digital Basement ][
SuperGlue! Fill those cracks with SuperGlue and once cured go over it all a second time. SuperGlue's natural wicking action will work it's way into all the cracks and fibers of the PCB and create a very strong bond. Been using SuperGlue for these kinds of repairs for years and it works wonders!
This trick is pretty obvious and well known to experienced bench technicians. You can test a capacitor already soldered in place without completely removing it by either cutting the lead on one side or desoldering one lead out of circuit, then do an ESR check on the cap.
There is no perfect convergence on a CRT however there is a grid that is overlaid on screen that you measure the convergence grid to. Just eye balling it won't work. Not that you can't get close to specs with the eye but you need the grid overlay to get it perfect. But definitely good enough. I once did a convergence on a old rear projection TV and that was a nightmare. 3 CRTs for each color. I hand ruled the grid with dry erase marker and after a few hours it became a "good enough job"
Ah that makes sense -- would allow them to make quick work of it all. I'm sure they got really good at on the assembly line, even though it was mostly just "good enough" :-)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Apparently I wasn't completely correct. I was going off a old rear projector that mentioned a grid assembly. for the tub it self you could get this tool. I will see what I can dig up.
ua-cam.com/video/DGzS3IhifRE/v-deo.html
Aaww c'mon man, you're taking the fun out of things! I love opening up monitors that are plugged in and licking things on the inside! 🤣🤣
It's a shame we didn't see you move the wedges and yoke around. That was - in my opinion - the hardest part of this repair to tweak that picture. I wouldn't know how to perform that part of the operation. I did find the interpretation of the schematics in conjunction with the oscilloscope educational, though, because CRTs aren't trivial for a novice retro repair enthusiast.
Can this be used with an Amiga 500? And if so, what cable would need to be used to connect it? Thanks
All Commodore RGB monitors work with all Amigas. The 1080 has the normal 9 pin connection on back for RGB.
Great troubleshooting video!
There have to be hundreds of 1080s out there that are too worn out or damaged to be good for much except salvaging the very circuitboard you need replaced, but unfortunately they're probably all buried in a landfill already. Still, something for your viewers to keep in mind in case they ever find one with a hopelessly worn out tube.
Adrian Black: Saving our digital heritage one bodge wire at a time.
the way i have done Cracks in tv in the past was to remove the parts from the area and Epoxy the PCB. then fix the tracks and add the components back. it is then unlikely to Re-Crack again.
I love these videos. Thanks for the entertainment!
Nice repair, but you made your life harder than needed. Use a small drill bit to stop the cracks at the end. Stabilise the pcb temporarily with hot glue. Then use those fibre glass pencils to remove the solder mask, flux the copper and use solder to jump the cracks. Wire wrap wire to jump thin traces. Test, fix anything you missed then Epoxy the crack with non metallised epoxy. As mentioned below the flyback core may be damaged. Shango66 covers this with the self destructing Sonys.
The wires you used to bridge the cracks look like worms 😂
Try shining a bright LED (like the flashlight on your phone) behind the PCB, makes all the cracks really pop out (even small hairline ones, that are easy to miss).
In UK we never had that shielding also these monitors I have seen several with PCB damage as LOPT is heavy and not supported. Glue (epoxy) the PCB back together first as flexing will cause new problems.
I learned to have a complete set of clamps and hemostats in my toolkit by a mentor of mine who was an amazing copier tech AND paramedic 😁
Good job very impressive I'm gonna route around and watch some of your other videos and probably subscribe thanks
I would epoxy the board and then remove the paint and solder bridge the traces. Use slow curing epoxy or UV stuff whichever is stronger. Maybe desolder components first for better access. After the repair you could put a new layer of paint on the traces. Makes it look cleaner.
Since it is only single sided you might be able to make a new board and check and move the parts.
Damn ima need someone like you to fix my 1080 bruh just watching why you do it it looks high key scary
Great video as always you entertain 👍
Love your videos!
I have my original Commodore monitor (no model # on it, so probably the 1080 like this one?)
Mine has rainbow coloring in the corners, so probably similar problem, I suppose. I just need to find a degaussing tool, or find out why the internal one doesn't work on power-on?
Thanks again for your hard work and sharing with the community!!!
Yeah, I'd be that plate is EMF shielding. I remember inadvertently corrupting more than one floppy disk by leaving them on the little self under my old monitor stand.
Great video, Adrian. Thanks again. Central safety idea, x-rays are not good. Heh.
X-ray production is only really a hazard if the tube anode voltage is set far too high
I used superglue on some broken mainboards and they is going strong even today :)
Great channel keep up the great work!
I really need to get my 1080 working. It's got lots of screen burn, and a "control panel" sticker across the top, but it would be nice to see it fire up.
If the image ripple is caused by a bad capacitor I would suspect one of the power rail caps charged directly off the flyback. I believe these are the ones which are subjected to the most ripple.
That tube looks really good for being 35+ years old.
I'd suggest crazy glue for the cracks as it's plenty strong and is thin so will (and is designed to) go in by capillary action and seal anerobically (word?)... :) Just put very small amounts on all the cracks, you can open the cracks slightly as applying if you like, or probably don't even need to do that.
And the Oscar for the best focus work goes to... (5:26) 😉