Commodore Amiga 1080 monitor resurrection
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- #Commodore #Amiga #CRT #repair
I recently came across this Commodore Amiga 1080 monitor that was dropped or suffered some type of severe impact. It had lose parts inside and was reportedly "totally dead." In this video, I bring it back to life!
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I'd reinforce all those cracks, with strong epoxy. I'd also carefully drill a hole at the end of each branch of the crack to terminate the crack to stop it from cracking further.
I would like to see this done!
If you guys weren't aware, this is how they stop cracks from running in windshields.
Definitely dont use hot glue to reinforce as the glue tends to soften when the internal temperatures heat up.
@@bennetfox Also in steel! Had to do this on a cracked crankcase lol.
That's a great idea with the hole! I just fixed a super valuable Tandy cm-8 that had all these exact problems-even the red I. The top corner. I did epoxy mine, but I'm going to tear him back apart and do this. I think it had 3 cracks and I e found it's way to a hole already. Thanks again for your suggestion
Great work, as always!
I don't think so... Soldering a jumper wire point to point is not a great work. To do that properlly, he sould scrape away solder mask and solder it along whole damaged distace
Suggest finding the very ends of the cracks and drilling a hole there so that the cracks cannot grow further.
I always preferred to remove the solder mask all along the crack. Then using solder wick if possible to bridge over the crack. This provides an electrical connection, some rigidity and some flexibility for the board. If solder braid is too large for the trace, then use the largest gauge of hook up wire that will fit. The reason for doing it this way is to make sure I don't miss a cracked trace along the crack. And finally ohm out all of the connections!
From a novice POV, this sounds like the logical choice just for the rigidity alone..
Fill the crack with crazy glue...
I agree. Solder braid is also my preference. Off topic but solder braid has a bad reputation but is my preferred method of de soldering components too. Ppl just don’t know how to use it any more. They try some old crap that’s been laying around and the flux in it is long gone and think it sucks. If anyone is of this opinion i challenge them to apply a drop of fresh flux on the braid before use and it will remove just about any amount of solder on a solder joint like a breeze.
@@pederb82 : I think the bigger problem was that some braid (Radio Shack, as I recall, so pretty common) came with _no_ flux at all.
@@absalomdraconis 🤦
Another note for those playing along, you should never push on the neck board from the anything other than the center of it. Pushing from the edges, you risk cracking the neck board and you'll be doing a lot more jumpering. All those who have suggested doing epoxy and just scraping the mask off and soldering right at the crack are correct.
Was think the same thing myself as it would help reinforce any gluing afterwards.. I'd also use thicker (solder adhering) and longer metal pieces to bridge the thicker traces as it would help reduce strain and help stop the "bridging" solder from flexing.
I really enjoyed this video format! I don't mind a long video that shows the real process of troubleshooting. I watch these kinds of videos to unwind, and I don't mind if they aren't polished. I like to think it through with you while you do it! Oh, and great work keeping one more CRT out of the landfill!
Don’t apologize at the end! That was my favorite video you’ve ever done. Not sure why, probably because it was all business from beginning to end. Also I spent many teenage years with my A500 in front of one of those so they have a very special place in my heart.
I guess the other way to do this would be to epoxy the board back together, then scrape off some solder mask and solder over the broken parts.
Yes that would have been the correct way
What he did wasn't good took longer and looks horrible
Either way the pcb should have been glued back
That is how we repaired this extremely common failure in the 90s. Epoxy the board literally made of epoxy back together then fiber brush the traces and bridge them with solder. Replace any missing with copper foil tape. Seal the board. Did this a hundred times at least.
That would have been my idea as well. Soldering the cracked traces back together would also make the board more solid again.
Adds mechanical strength too.
@@Stoney3K yeah and the problem is it can crack more as he didn't fix the support piece and have arcing
Im very let down on this horrible job i expected better from him
I really hope he sees this comment and redo it
And fix the support
I,ve a commodre 2000 and a 1081 monitor and want to hopfully get it up and running again, after 30+ years it's been in my loft and have found yours and many more sites very usefull.
My A1080 is the same vintage. Something inside used to arc ocassionally, resetting the Amiga unless the video cable shield ground was connected. The horizontal drive eventually failed.
I've repaired some cracked PCBs , strengthened the PCB by expoxying strips of PCB material over the cracks, before adding jumper wires, for a more "permanent" repair.
Great video, for best results using a degaussing coil start far away and move in circles toward the screen until you are right up next to it. then back away still moving in circles until the coil doesn't affect the picture. Also GC Tools #9317 coil can run much longer, I recommend it. Looking forward to you getting a Coleco Adam computer. 🙂
Awesome video and what a fantastic job AB!! TBH it's fortunate the damage wasn't a LOT worse if it was dropped. I had an old EGA monitor fall off the back of a table and instantly that acrid smell of magic smoke and the telltale sounds of crispyfry(tm) happening inside. So kudos to you AB for doing such a fantastic job on restoring that monitor back. :D
15:04 A good trick for that is to twist the end of the wire(the metal strands), that makes it harder for the strands to spread, also minimizes the chance of a strand sticking to somewhere it shouldn't.
Hey Adrian, do you know about "fiberglass scratchbrush"? They're a rod of compacted, parallel lines of fiberglass in like a lipstick container. They work great for removing corrosion in tight areas, but also for removing soldermask without damaging the copper underneath (unless you REALLY work hard). They save a ton of time, just gotta wipe with a napkin every few swipes (or do it under alcohol) so the fibers don't go everywhere as they break off. Super useful stuff for doing rework, and dirt cheap (most pens come with a second/spare fiberglass rod in the handle)
Yes, he has used them in previous videos. He probably would have used one if he had decided to patch the traces for mechanical reinforcement, but since he didn't, it didn't really come up.
@@mal2ksc Yeah it was a hell of a repair too! I do worry about it being so 'floppy' and more damage occurring. But that really was a painful repair to watch, probably because I've had to do similar and hated every second of it! His work has gotten so good recently, one of the few resto/repair channels I can watch. Dude loves his old puters and puts in the blood sweat and tears to really pull amazing repairs out of thin air. Hard not to enjoy watching someone passionate about their work.
I have one similar to this, it’s Commodore Branded in the front and I believe the model # is 2002. It’s one of the best versions of this body styled monitor IIR. I remember buying all the commodore branded cables for it back in 2014 or so.
Great work, i absolutely liked "metallurgic" aproach on fixing a broken board :) very entertaining video, thumbs up!
I have one like this and have had it for 30+ years. It's a versatile and useful display for composite AND 15khz arcade monitors. I recapped mine totally which restored it to 100% like new function. I cleaned and resoldered the flyback while I had it apart, but they can't be beat. Mine has audio also.
Regarding the ripple: Look for a small value capacitor in series with the horizontal scan coils. It is likely in parallel with a resistor. The purpose of this is to create an LRC circuit to counteract ringing caused by the inductance of the energized coils at scan frequency. The ringing effectively means that the cathode beam(s) are moved at a non-constant pace, causing small ripples in brightness. Since many of the traces around the flyback have been repaired, you're also affecting the "ringing" to a small degree as well.
I haven't looked at the schematics but I would suspect the S capacitors are film capacitors.
Try shining a bright LED (like the flashlight on your phone) behind the PCB, makes all the cracks really pop out (even small hairline ones, that are easy to miss).
It's a shame we didn't see you move the wedges and yoke around. That was - in my opinion - the hardest part of this repair to tweak that picture. I wouldn't know how to perform that part of the operation. I did find the interpretation of the schematics in conjunction with the oscilloscope educational, though, because CRTs aren't trivial for a novice retro repair enthusiast.
My old Commodore 1902 I had for years looked IDENTICAL to this monitor. Never took it apart, but externally, only the badging was different.
Yeah a bunch of US Commodore monitors looked just like this, but often the manufacturer was not the same. 1080, 1902, 1084, etc. I think there were at least 3 companies making these that externally looked the same.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I wish now that I would have kept it. It developed some type of short inside or the flyback was arcing. I tossed it out, but with what skills I have now, I'm sure I could have fixed the thing.
Great video, good result. Just a point about auto degauss posistors. The idea is it’s low resistance when cold, and applies a voltage to the coil that diminishes as it heats up. You had powered the monitor face down, and although the flyback was not connected, the degauss was. Degauss happens with respect to the earth’s magnetic field. So if it degaussed face first, and the posistor stayed hot, no further degauss would occur. This means as you sit it back upright it’s no longer degaussed with respect to the earth. Leave the set off for 15 mins or so, then try again. I also recommend to use some epoxy resin to fix the the cracked pcb and stop and further spread. But that said, well done. Another one saved :)
That extension lead may only cut the positive, neutral is probably still there. And if wired incorrectly maybe the positive.
0:47 Looks like an soldering iron mark... I had plenty of these on my monitors during a period.
Me too !
A classic! That vaguely bulbous shape sitting on a 1000 was part of my childhood.
That tube looks really good for being 35+ years old.
The 1080 up until the 1084S was Mono. The 1084S was the first to connect stereo speakers to the Amiga stereo output.
This one was great!! Nicely done
Nice video Adrian, I love the troubleshooting part of the videos, watching an experienced electronics guy show in understandable terms for a novice is soo helpful. Obviously as a novice I don't recommend novices to play about with 26KV devices, unless they have triple checked about discharging the item, seeing if it's fitted with a bleeder resistor etc etc...HV can do big damage to a heart etc. Apart from that, have to agree with the general consensus of scraping the mask off and basically welding the PCB on both sides. But hey, what do I know :)
I agree with patching up the wide traces with some solder braid, but _also_ leave the jumper wires in place and only rely on the solder braid for mechanical reinforcement. Then you only have to patch the wide ones, there's no mechanical point to patching something half a millimeter wide.
I'd suggest crazy glue for the cracks as it's plenty strong and is thin so will (and is designed to) go in by capillary action and seal anerobically (word?)... :) Just put very small amounts on all the cracks, you can open the cracks slightly as applying if you like, or probably don't even need to do that.
4:54.... oddly familiar... I'd have to say it was dropped on it's face, thus causing the flyback to crack the PCB simply due to it's weight and gravity at work.... what goes up, must come down.
Great video as always you entertain 👍
And this was on channel II!
Turned out nice!!! Good job!
Ahhh....the Amiga.....when you wanted to be on the cutting edge for, oh, I don't know.....2, three months tops.
A little hint... Take some panty hose and attach it to the end of a vacuum cleaner hose with a rubber band. Then run the vacuum under any place your cap might have rolled under. This way, the vacuum will suck it up right to the hose, without sucking it into the vacuum, and with any luck, you'll have your cap back, along with anything else you've dropped down there over the years!
Nice repair, but you made your life harder than needed. Use a small drill bit to stop the cracks at the end. Stabilise the pcb temporarily with hot glue. Then use those fibre glass pencils to remove the solder mask, flux the copper and use solder to jump the cracks. Wire wrap wire to jump thin traces. Test, fix anything you missed then Epoxy the crack with non metallised epoxy. As mentioned below the flyback core may be damaged. Shango66 covers this with the self destructing Sonys.
Love your videos!
I have my original Commodore monitor (no model # on it, so probably the 1080 like this one?)
Mine has rainbow coloring in the corners, so probably similar problem, I suppose. I just need to find a degaussing tool, or find out why the internal one doesn't work on power-on?
Thanks again for your hard work and sharing with the community!!!
I used to have this model monitor. Still have the Amiga 1000 my parents bought with it, but didn't keep the monitor. Kind of kicking myself for getting rid of it all those years ago. My only complaint about this monitor is it's mono audio but paired with a stereo computer.
I think they assumed those who really cared about the sound already had a hi-fi. And they were probably right.
Seeing that cracked PCB makes me wonder one thing... I am currently working on repairing my 30 year old Sony Hi-Fi, which has a cracked PCB in the amplifier. Since I was able to get the schematics, I am basically recreating the entire thing in KiCad, and then layouting a board that has the same outline and location of connectors and other important components.
So.. now I wonder if there would be a place where enthusiasts all over the world could simply upload such recreated designs for others to use. Since the schematics for the cracked board in your monitor are available, one could do the same thing, and maybe someone else somewhere in the world could find it useful.
Well.. just thinking out loud...
It seems most people who bother KiCAD'ing up a PCB end up buying some from PCBWay or similar, and they allow the option to let others look at and use your design. This is going to be fragmented, each circuit only being on the server of the company that ran the boards, but it's better than nothing. Also you have a lead on who to contact if you get stuck -- chances are the person that uploaded it has built at least one by the time you see it.
@@mal2ksc I wasn't aware of such an option, since I don't get my PCBs through PCBway. I usually go to JLC, as they are less expensive and their quality is really good. I haven't seen such an option on their website yet. The only designs I can see are the ones that I have ordered in the past..
At the same time it is probably pretty risky as you have to mention the original manufacturer and part number in order for people to be able to find those designs. And I don't know how companies like Sony would react if someone offered a compatible replacement for one of their PCBs, even if the product itself was phased out 30 years ago. After all, that company is still in business, unlike many of the retro computing manufacturers.
Yikes, thats some crack and a wild fix. But as my father said. If it Works it works. Haha. On a modern board almost Impossible.
Someone should make a standard youtube CRT disclaimer that you can show.
Dave has a much higher-pitched squeaky voice.
Very nice Adrian. Any way to internally adjust the brightness / contrast on a 1084s? The existing knobs only go so far on mine in their adjustments. I was wondering if there was anything internally I could do to increase contrast / brighness / saturation etc.
How does the weight of the base panel affect the balance of the CRT? Maybe the plate is there to offset the weight of the tube?
I would say a Pro would be quicker, but I don't know if they would do a better job, ie, a thinker would spend hours fiddling, where as a Pro is on a time schedule to churn them out.
great
The main reason I don't buy monitors and have them shipped. They need one of those drop tattle tell things that breaks when you use it for a basketball.
They're called shock stickers, and it looks like they cost about $6 each which is probably why they aren't in more common use.
Why use a special degaussing coild and not simply put a desk fan in front of the screen?
On he first long trace you bodged, I don’t like you crossed over another wire…
I also didn't like him repeatedly adding wires to the same point. It's fine to have a star pattern, but you want to make sure you have one solid solder joint going through the whole stack, which you won't if you keep stacking new ones on top. However, given the severity of the damage, I think that an event that causes that janky solder joint to fail will likely _also_ cause further cracking of the board that will require repair, so it's not worth going back in there to clean it up now.
Woohoo! Like #69! 😅 A fine job there Adrian!
Not a bad impression of an Australian. For future impressions just speak with your nose & throat, it's good enough lol
Such a versital monitor
Actually your Aussie accent wasn't that bad.
Methodical? Are you saying that even though I am more like the Baptists I should not just be a member of the Methodist Church, but actually BE methodist?!? :p
all this crack talk :)
define can of worms
do you like jagged alliance
matrix flat crt's would be nice
pixel addressed crt
voltage attraction grid
I've spent many hours doing convergence and tube replacement on colour monitors, mostly $15K to $30K broadcast monitors...
If you think static convergence is difficult wait until you have to do the dynamic convergence! Fun times :)
I'd have to say, for never doing a static convergence and the purity magnets before, you did an excellent job, sir!
I would have scrapped the solder mask off on both sides of the major cracks, tried to flatten out the PCB so the cracked ends came back together, and then flowed solder to bridge all the breaks and hold the board back together. Would have then added the heavy bodge wires.
If that monitor is NOT a Trinitron or similar one gun inline tube then there should be a set of rings on the yoke or neck of the tube that need to be rotated to set purity. This applies to the triad gun (RCA) type of tube. If the thing was dropped those rings could have shifted.
Those monitors were great value for the money. I remember using one as a TV, as we had a miniature B&W TV (with like a 3.5" tube), but it had composite out. Ran that into by 1084, and we had color TV instead of B&W, and you could actually see what was going on!
Fond memories of the 1084 and 1084S.
Amstrad (one of Commodore's big rivals in the U.K. actually sold a Tuner box to convert their monitor into a TV. I was going to suggest you could also use a VCR, but back then they cost more than a C64 and a TV together.
This has been a seriously helpful video, thank you!
I've got a nice Tatung multifunction (MDA, CGA, EGA and VGA) monitor that has/had exactly the same issues. It took a nasty drop during shipping and the flyback cracked the PCB. Fixed that and despite my better judgement, did a full recap as a couple were giving issues.
But it had colour purity and convergence issues almost identical to whats seen here. I had written the tube off as damaged, and it is in bits half way through a tube swap currently, but having watched this, I'll be reversing that and having a more in depth play with moving the yoke and purity rings.
I cannot overstate how much I have learnt from your channel, it is absolutely one of the best out there.
I had an SVGA monitor take a tumble down some (fortunately carpeted) stairs, and although it didn't quit working, it got _way_ out of adjustment. I was hesitant to work on it, not because I didn't know how, but because I had done so enough times to get thrown across the room once. I remember doing a lot of the job with paper tubes and chopsticks. I never did get the convergence completely corrected in the corners.
As damaged as that was, I’m most impressed the power switch is functional… all of mine have failed.
Adrian’s Bodge Lodge
LOL! 😂
No a real bodge needs a paperclip
Adrian's Bodge City?
Also, "methological" = methodical + mythological.
Adrian’s metho-logical dance party?
So that black soot is a sign of high hours? Found some in the 1995 Apple color 14" monitor I cleaned up recently.
This is the kind of repair I enjoy, bodging busted bits back together! In some ways, the easiest kind of fix.
Funny thing, the first time I turned it on I got a power LED and a screen-flash when turning it off, but after plugging it in to my Performa 475 it wouldn't show any activity, not even power-LED, unless the Mac was also on! Weird.
This Amiga CRT is still in better shape than my Amstrad-clone monitor/power-supply that was EOL'd/stripped for scrap by the PC shop somebody dropped it off at!
Huge holes in the case, heat-sinks ripped out along with their attached components and chunks of the PCB!
Still fixable, I think, as I have the schematics, just need to find some rare/obsolete replacement parts.
Ugh. I hate phenolic boards. Or, copper-on-graham-cracker. I’ve gone through four LaserDisc players from that crap - two with severely cracked boards, the other two with extensive electrolytic fluid damage.
Can this be used with an Amiga 500? And if so, what cable would need to be used to connect it? Thanks
All Commodore RGB monitors work with all Amigas. The 1080 has the normal 9 pin connection on back for RGB.
Some of the early 1080s had longer-duration phosphor which meant that interlace was virtually flicker-free, particularly compared to, say, the 1084. There are obviously plusses and minuses to that but the first A1000 owner I knew got his monitor and system _incredibly_ early and my god, even interlaced mode was beautiful.
That red wire is monstrously thick, but it's probably the right choice in this case. For low voltage low current stuff I typically use wires from a high quality Cat5e Ethernet cable, their insulation is rated for up to 125VDC. For low voltage high current stuff I use automotive wire rated for 48VDC.
For low voltage low current in an application where I don't have to worry about mechanical stress much, I like using solid-core telephone exchange wire, because there's no fear of a solid wire unraveling and having a whisker cause a short -- they don't have any whiskers. I remember Cat 3 and some really cheap "Cat 5" cables (that never really worked at speed) had the same solid core wires, but more recent cables don't seem so coat-hanger stiff so I suspect they're not solid core anymore.
@@mal2ksc I agree, solid core wire is better sometimes.
I like this point camera and get to fixing format. Don't feel too pressured for editing here on ][.
I own this monitor in working condition, where can I get the schematic for safe keeping?
That ringing on the left side of the sweep could be an issue with the flyback. If the bit that broke off in the brace was part of the core, it could be slightly detuned now.
I had a bunch of TTY terminals that used an off the shelf CRT module produced by Zenith and it was VERY common for the flyback ferrites to be cracked, and there would be ringing fold over in the picture as a result.
Doesn't that usually make the flyback whine audibly in use though? I think Adrian said he can still hear the 15.5 kHz H-sync, so if the coil was complaining, he probably would have noticed.
The 1080 is a fantastic display and totally worth fixing. I completely lost the red gun on mine a few years ago, and was worried I wouldn't be able to fix it. Turns out, the digital/analog input switch on the rear was all corroded. Taking apart the switch to clean it, polishing the RCA jacks, and lubricating the pot knobs in the front was all it took to get the monitor working almost like new. I have a flicker fixer in my A1200 "just in case", but I still use the 1080 for a display because it looks great.
As a native of Massachusetts, I say your attempt at an Australian accent was more like a an attempt at a Boston accent, in fact that's what I thought you were going for
Indeed, it was more fronted (oral posture wise) whereas Dave Jones speaks more at the back of his mouth
This is an Amiga 1080 monitor, so you should really give it a 1080 signal lol.
But NEVER use hot glue inside a crt set, it will melt, you need to use silicone
You need to take those rubber wedges out and replace them, they go hard and hold moisture this will destroy the yoke.
I always use copper tape to repair traces. adding wire can act as an antenna and add interference in the picture.
I have one of these still factory sealed in its box. It was going to be tossed into a dumpster during a clean out. I couldn't get it to my car fast enough.
I've had this monitor since 86 when I got my Amiga 1000 and have picked up many other model monitors from Commodore over the years and the 1080 seems to have a kind of blurry composite video compared to other commodore monitors, even the 2002. RGB is fantastic though. I first discovered this when I connected my Commodore 64 to it.
I loved my 1084 which i also used as a TV using the tuner in my Hitachi VHS.
@Adrian's Digital Basement ][
SuperGlue! Fill those cracks with SuperGlue and once cured go over it all a second time. SuperGlue's natural wicking action will work it's way into all the cracks and fibers of the PCB and create a very strong bond. Been using SuperGlue for these kinds of repairs for years and it works wonders!
I had a C= 1960 multisync as a kid shipped to me,outside looked perfect,but board inside was cracked in 2 pieces across the middle.. I actually epoxied the board back together and jumpered all the traces back together with wire. It still works today but was a crazy amount of work.. Things u do when you are poor.
@Adrian's Digital Basement ][ Oh no, never, ever fix broken traces that way... You should scrape away solder mask and solder a jumper wire on whole surface of the trice, not simply connect it point to point. iMO a solder wick is better choice for this kind of repair then cord wire...
Don't be too confused about the color impurities. It happens immediately if you are putting a CRT on it's side....just takes an hour or so to disappear, even without a degaussing coil....I've had that myself. On monitors and TV sets. Hope that helps!
2:16 the metal plate is for the Amiga 1000. Some of these monitors did not have it and caused the machine to have read/write errors! I discovered this because I was having errors on one of my Amiga 1000's with one of my 1080's and when I swapped monitors the errors went away. I then noticed this metal plate under it!
I have one and the power button is busted. I had to jam tooth picks in to it to keep it on. Then I use a wall switch to turn it on and off. I lack repair skills.
I got rid of my Amiga in the mid 90's like almost everyone else but I kept the monitor, I had that thing hooked up to a DVD player, good picture, stereo speakers and I thought it was unkillable. It finally went toes up about 6 years ago...it was like losing a family member.
Good job very impressive I'm gonna route around and watch some of your other videos and probably subscribe thanks
Ironically, its was probably the fact that they did stabilize it that "allowed" it to crack, due dropping it deforming the plastic, which would have pushed on the flyback, and broke the board...
If it were me I'd put some 2 part epoxy on those cracks to stabilize the PCB... The ripple could be caused by the bodge wires through inductance into the surrounding traces.
Damn ima need someone like you to fix my 1080 bruh just watching why you do it it looks high key scary
yeah theres some weight in Line Output Transformers not to mention around 18kv when running......
In UK we never had that shielding also these monitors I have seen several with PCB damage as LOPT is heavy and not supported. Glue (epoxy) the PCB back together first as flexing will cause new problems.
My 1080, which was manufacturer in November of 1985, is still going strong.
I would epoxy the board and then remove the paint and solder bridge the traces. Use slow curing epoxy or UV stuff whichever is stronger. Maybe desolder components first for better access. After the repair you could put a new layer of paint on the traces. Makes it look cleaner.
Since it is only single sided you might be able to make a new board and check and move the parts.
Yeah, I'd be that plate is EMF shielding. I remember inadvertently corrupting more than one floppy disk by leaving them on the little self under my old monitor stand.
The ringing could be caused by pick up from the white wires as the pass close to the LOPT( line output transformer).I use to be a TV engineer and a common issue with ringing was due to a damping resistor across the line linearity coil. They would go high in value causing the lin coil to ring which would show visibly on the screen.
Anyone know how to adjust VERTICAL CENTER on this monitor?
If the image ripple is caused by a bad capacitor I would suspect one of the power rail caps charged directly off the flyback. I believe these are the ones which are subjected to the most ripple.
You sound almost exactly like the Forgotten Weapons guy. You even have a similar presentation style.
In some materials, such as metal or glass, you can arrest a crack by drilling a circular hole just in front of its path. It eliminates the tear in progress by spreading forces evenly. I would think it would work well on a PCB, if there is room for a hole.
If I were doing a repair for this at work, I would have scraped back the mask and used a few cut off part legs or bus bar to bridge the crack. I'd have followed it up with a layer of non-conductive epoxy on top of that.
Epoxy the crack from the other side.
Scrape the solder mask on the cracked traces.
Bridge the cracked traces with copper and solder.
It's going to be a way more durable repair.