Update: While the method shown in this video does work, an easier fix has been suggested by Voultar. It requires some further testing which I will cover in part 2
This is the exact reason I watch random repair videos for old consoles. Thank you. I am getting a as is console that I am going to repair and this may come up.
I bought my SNES a few years ago. It came with a non genuine power supply and had bad interference on screen. A genuine power supply fixed the problem.
Just uploaded an install for this very thing using windrakes pcb, made the install cleaner and like you, I’ve never come across this before. Was a fun project.
In my mind, I see you and Mr. Lurch boozing after shooting those 1084 CRT repair videos, both shitfaced, Mr. Lurch pushing you to buy that huge SNES board job lot, slurring, 'BUY THEM! BUY THEM! DO IT!' while you're giggling, cross-eyed ('Hee hee!') and tapping 'BUY IT NOW!', loud drunken roaring laughter ensues etc.
I've recently fixed and modded a japanese superfamicom junior and a US snes 1chip. It took me a while to learn everything that is different with them. The european RGB scart cable works on both but the brightness might be off a bit.
I measured SD2SNES Rev. H pulling 560-580mA for all games, which is higher than any real cart. Like real Star Fox with Super FX measured 510-515mA and all normal carts were under 500mA.
Nah never, seems like more trouble than it's worth and the triad power supplies seem rock solid. You can find replacement rear port covers on AliExpress that include the power jack
If that's the only graphical glitch you had, I'm rather jealous :) I have 3 NES consoles (1 is my original console) plus a SNES, Megadrive, Mastersystem II, 2600, etc... and they all look like crap on my modern TVs, half of them don't work at all since a modern TV sold here in Australia has zero ability to tune into analogue stations, and the ones that do work, have horrible wavey lines all over the display.
Just starting to watch; I'm curious if you'll run into any sound issues on any of these. Recently I bought a re-capped Super Famicom (with a sound board) from someone and it turns out one audio channel isn't working. They had just tested it by playing a game on an old tv with a mono speaker. I swapped the sound board with another working one and that didn't solve it, so I'm guessing there's some broken solder or trace somewhere on the board.
Not in the sound module, but I've seen one refuse to boot due to bad caps in the power supply (not the external supply but the SMD caps near the 7805). If you have the burn in cart, you can remove the sound module and the SNES will boot without it. But that only works with the burn in cart, games will not boot without the sound module
Had question have a super famicom with shvc cpu 01 and having some issues . When you play a game with player 1 controller plugged in works fine but when you have player two plugged in the game won't load just a black screen . Have a working super famicom and swapped controller port board same thing. Could you point me In a direction to fix this thanks. Your video is very informative.
Likely a faulty CPU or something in between. The controller ports are handled directly by the CPU with a few passive components in between. Have a look at the schematics and trace out the connection from port 2 to CPU
I know with EverDrives for N64 you can rename a rom to "autoexec" on the root of your SD card and it will boot that from instead of the EverDrive menu. I'm not sure if this is a feature on every EverDrive but it's worth a try.
Remove the solder mask, clean with IPA, add flux and tin with solder. Vinegar will do little to capacitor electrolyte. Reapplying solder mask is optional
Interesting, I have an issue with a super Famicon playing this game, discovered the issue isn’t there if you play it by copying to Super UFO Pro cart (with game cart in top) I have a video, maybe you’ve seen this issue before. I was about to return it to the customer…
Yeah I believe the NA one has a 3300uF in the supply. The JP has 2200uF in the supply and 1000uF on the board. And the PAL one has 2200uF on the board but uses an AC supply and gets recitified in the SNES
Update: While the method shown in this video does work, an easier fix has been suggested by Voultar. It requires some further testing which I will cover in part 2
This is the exact reason I watch random repair videos for old consoles. Thank you. I am getting a as is console that I am going to repair and this may come up.
nice fix please submit this to console mods wiki
Top level modding right there nice fix and only needed 2 wires brilliant
That fix was freakin' genius man!
Awesome problem solving for those buffers. Better solution than ordering a custom board to fix the issue.
Excellent troubleshooting, I loved it.
Reusing those 2 spare gates is so cool
This is why I love this channel.
I bought my SNES a few years ago. It came with a non genuine power supply and had bad interference on screen. A genuine power supply fixed the problem.
Gonna be honest, I woulda just suffered with the video glitch.
Kudos
Just uploaded an install for this very thing using windrakes pcb, made the install cleaner and like you, I’ve never come across this before. Was a fun project.
You have done a great job. Very smart solution!
What a neat fix! Ive had similar issues so i might dig up those boards and have a closer look if this is why! Thank you :)
great fix buffering the clock.
Very cool .. signal to signal (stage to stage coupling) loading fix.
In my mind, I see you and Mr. Lurch boozing after shooting those 1084 CRT repair videos, both shitfaced, Mr. Lurch pushing you to buy that huge SNES board job lot, slurring, 'BUY THEM! BUY THEM! DO IT!' while you're giggling, cross-eyed ('Hee hee!') and tapping 'BUY IT NOW!', loud drunken roaring laughter ensues etc.
So good of a repair! And great debugging skills! Keep up the amazing job! 😊❤
Great troubleshooting and persistence solving a Big Mystery! -Mark.
Great video! I love how you explain everything you do!
Great content and i look forwards to next part.
That’s how you do it! Well done.
Looking forward to part 2!
Great work!
Great Video again! Very Helpful👍🏻👍🏻
I've recently fixed and modded a japanese superfamicom junior and a US snes 1chip.
It took me a while to learn everything that is different with them. The european RGB scart cable works on both but the brightness might be off a bit.
Pure excellence, good sir!
I measured SD2SNES Rev. H pulling 560-580mA for all games, which is higher than any real cart. Like real Star Fox with Super FX measured 510-515mA and all normal carts were under 500mA.
Doskonała Robota! 😎
Puttin on the fritz.
is that a hot knife tip on the soldering iron? :|
I guess, if it works, it works.
Yep. I thought I'd give the knife tip a try and now I've gotten used to using it, it's hard to go back to anything else. Very versatile tip
Brilliant!
Very nice fix, but I was thinking the video sponsor actually would have preferred a separate PCB to buffer that signal.
😉
Late night alcohol fueled impulse buy?
Yup. I resemble that remark.
I waited just for this video for ages!
Ah, the drunk refurb and flip math.
This is not Everdrive, it's SD2SNES ;-)
Why is it not a nice square wave or is there a problem with the slew rate of the oscilloscope
Have you ever USB power-modded a SNES? My childhood SNES has a broken power connector, and I have been thinking of doing it.
Nah never, seems like more trouble than it's worth and the triad power supplies seem rock solid. You can find replacement rear port covers on AliExpress that include the power jack
If that's the only graphical glitch you had, I'm rather jealous :) I have 3 NES consoles (1 is my original console) plus a SNES, Megadrive, Mastersystem II, 2600, etc... and they all look like crap on my modern TVs, half of them don't work at all since a modern TV sold here in Australia has zero ability to tune into analogue stations, and the ones that do work, have horrible wavey lines all over the display.
Is possible restauration cpu?
Just starting to watch; I'm curious if you'll run into any sound issues on any of these. Recently I bought a re-capped Super Famicom (with a sound board) from someone and it turns out one audio channel isn't working. They had just tested it by playing a game on an old tv with a mono speaker. I swapped the sound board with another working one and that didn't solve it, so I'm guessing there's some broken solder or trace somewhere on the board.
If it's been recapped by someone else, check their work. Especially C65 and C66, the two smaller SMD electrolytics.
Have you ran into an SHVC that wouldn't boot due to bad caps in the sound module?
Not in the sound module, but I've seen one refuse to boot due to bad caps in the power supply (not the external supply but the SMD caps near the 7805). If you have the burn in cart, you can remove the sound module and the SNES will boot without it. But that only works with the burn in cart, games will not boot without the sound module
@@TheRetroChannel awesome I appreciate it, thanks for the info! 🤙
Had question have a super famicom with shvc cpu 01 and having some issues . When you play a game with player 1 controller plugged in works fine but when you have player two plugged in the game won't load just a black screen . Have a working super famicom and swapped controller port board same thing. Could you point me In a direction to fix this thanks. Your video is very informative.
Likely a faulty CPU or something in between. The controller ports are handled directly by the CPU with a few passive components in between. Have a look at the schematics and trace out the connection from port 2 to CPU
I know with EverDrives for N64 you can rename a rom to "autoexec" on the root of your SD card and it will boot that from instead of the EverDrive menu. I'm not sure if this is a feature on every EverDrive but it's worth a try.
Possibly, although I've never seen it mentioned anywhere for the SNES version
What should I do if I find a black trace? Scrape away the solder mask, vinegar, baking soda to neutralize and then add liquid solder mask and cure it?
Remove the solder mask, clean with IPA, add flux and tin with solder. Vinegar will do little to capacitor electrolyte. Reapplying solder mask is optional
Did I hear an accidental F Bomb around 38 minutes? Nice perseverance though!
Accidental?
@@TheRetroChannel Haha, ok yes, I think it was at that point you had probably had enough of it all! Really enjoying the videos!
Interesting, I have an issue with a super Famicon playing this game, discovered the issue isn’t there if you play it by copying to Super UFO Pro cart (with game cart in top) I have a video, maybe you’ve seen this issue before. I was about to return it to the customer…
F bomb at 38:25
The North American SNES has the big cap inside the power supply, making the one on the board unnecessary.
Yeah I believe the NA one has a 3300uF in the supply. The JP has 2200uF in the supply and 1000uF on the board. And the PAL one has 2200uF on the board but uses an AC supply and gets recitified in the SNES
@@TheRetroChannel You are correct on the board, but I've never seen a Japanese pwr sup, so can't comment.
if it supposed to help people how to solder properly on that first snes? i dont think so.
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