Are Dual Inputs Really Needed In Every Setup?
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Are Dual Inputs Really Needed In Every Setup? Or are they really a waste of money? This video does a deep dive into the American Wire Gauge standard and try to answer that question.
HifiVega
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Time Stamps
Chapters
0:00 - Intro
7:04 - Unboxing KnuKonceptz 1/0
8:25 - American Wire Gauge Chart
11:42 - KnuKonceptz Wire Gauge Chart
14:35 - Do The Math Add Up?
Tags:
#TarAmps #DualAmplifierInput #KnuKonceptz
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Ok. I have too say, I'm in 6 mins into this video. I wasn't even watching it. I was listening to it via Bluetooth headphones while doing yard work😂. Really I was. And it hit me. I was like "this dudes voice right now sounds like a teacher talking to a class of students in this field of car audio. Now I haven't seen the video yet it's paused as I'm typing right now. But I'm was impressed in how good you were coming across on audio without even watching the video. For that bro.......🤙🏽🤙🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽. Great job. So I don't know if you are an actual teacher or what you do but your voice comes off on point and clear and keeps at least me engaged in what you are saying. Okay now to finish this video and my to do list😂😂
Thanks for tuning in 😄 And yes, I taught computer courses in my early twenties and assisted about 500 ex-offenders, with their GED's, in an adult basic education program. You're actually the first to ask that, by the way👍
@@BudgetBassHead God bless you !!!
@@BudgetBassHead I freaking knew it😂😂😂😂. Haha . Great work my friends🤙🏽. Can't wait till the next one
@@angelvip2474 Nailed it
Appreciate the shout out homie! I dig your experimental approach to car audio. We gotta get you on 12vTalk sometime
Thanks for the invite bro 👍 That would be awesome!
HifiVega: sounds like a good addition to your discussion group!
I think a lotta people aren't paying attention to the fact that you're running 4/0, I support your side of the story not everyone wants to spend hella money trying to get an extra few hundred watts. thanks for the vid
You really only need the few hundred watts for extreme spl.
It's not a matter of trying to get more wattage its a matter of supplying the amp with enough voltage and current so the amp doesn't overheat and possibly damaging the amp. In this case more is better.
@@BobBasshead In my experience I've never had an amp overheat from a wire being too small, seems like you really have to be pushing it or maybe using CCA wire for that to happen.
@@Tmanstomp100there is a lot of misinformation on CCA. personally I don’t run it however dc voltage travels on the outside the copper strand anyway so CCA will indeed carry the same if it’s the same strand count. You will do better with fine CCA than with a welding cable with heavy thick gauge as again physics says dc runs on outside the copper. Only issue with CCA is it corrodes easily with mixed materials so it must stay dry and sealed. Running a back battery to amp I’d say it’s ok but personally I like all the same wire for best look and another 3 feet of tinned ofc. Meh. If it’s run under a hood I suggest run it in a sleeve and super seal everything water tight. Many connectors are not built with water tight in mind.
Dual runs... Always think about over head, dual runs decreases heat of the wiring and amplifier tension draw, think about drinking from a straw... One straw will work, the math might say its adequate... Now try 2 straws and tell me if it ain't better and less stress on your pulling power to draw in the fluids... Same as an amplifier.
good analogy, but missing from the analogy would be available flow from the straw. If you can only pull 300A, then does it matter if you pull 300A from a 1/2" (1/0) straw, or ten 1/2" straws? So long as the straw can supply 300A of flow, it makes no difference.
Similar concept when building computer always better to get 2 8gig ram sticks instead of one 16 gig
Dual input is needed according to current draw, and the length of the power wire length. Derick from Sundown Audio on the Sundown Audio Unofficial channel did the test of dual input vs single run input, and yes, you get more power with the dual run. It's only needed if the demand is needed for your setup. MAKE SURE YOU FUSE ALL POWER RUNNING TO THE AMP, AND BETWEEN BATTERIES, AND POWER SOURCES!!!!!! (edit: Also, to clean up your terminals, get you some of those terminal relocation blocks that relocate the factory terminal to an external post, and give you multiple output ports.)
I personally would use dual runs to combat any voltage drop. Even if its .4 that you gain. It will help your entire system run more efficient more efficient means less heat and strain on 1 single wire👍
Agree with you better to go over than under your system will work properly with properly sized wires.
You have quickly become one of my must see car audio channels. Your research, comparisons and builds are spot on target in my interests and your delivery is the best in the business. TY, much love, peace out..:)
Thanks for the support👍
Man now this is what I'm talking about, this is a well scripted (if it is) video with good proper knowledge!
I do not see why you don't have more subscribers. NOBODY is more detailed, speaks clearly, and provides explanation throughout all processes. I don't have an opinion on the dual run, but it does have me thinking... Great video
A lotta people ask me the exact same thing 😄 but what can I say... Thanks for the compliment👍
Yes!!! I went from single zero on my skar audio RP4500 to dual inputs and it changed everything.🤝🏿
Yeahhh Mane! Thanks for the info. I'd run 2 myself just to keep it from choking. Would be interesting to see what 1-1/0gauge run will do after a few draws.
K. Finished the video. Amazing work. And again your communication skills are on point. 👏🏽👏🏽
I appreciate that!
stock 2/0 is enough for these amps. but if you're going half ohm i see nothing wrong in ensuring more current flow
You don’t wanna go half ohm on Taramp.
@@xchampxownsx4535 LMAO that's cute. both my smart 3's wired to .4 and both my bass 8k wired to .5 you must be thinking about the older taramps or think i must have a 9 volt battery for a power source LMAO that's funny as hell.
@@notyobiz6207 well from experience, Taramps are Brazilian boards, and when I go half ohm on them they burn. If your amps able to go half then that’s good. I’d rather stick to Korean boards where they are build better to go half ohm.
@@xchampxownsx4535 ppl out here running .35 on taramps lol. step your electric up and so can you. "well from experience taramps are brazillian boards and when i go half ohm on them they burn." ok, was it the old grey amps or the new white scheme? alt, batt, wire used? box specs and woofers used?
@@notyobiz6207 I burned my HD10k @ half ohm, running 2xNSV4 15s dual 2ohms. With a limitless 45ah bank, 2xRuns of zero. A XS power D3400 under the hood with a 390 JP alt. That’s just from my bad experience. Like I said. If it worked for you, that’s good, but I’d personally rather just run Korean boards.
I run 4/0 about 2' from my 54ah lishen lto lithium on my Taramps md8k.
I also have 4/0 run from a 350 amp alternator to the lithium.
That's all I have in my vehicle's is Kolossal wire and I wish they offered a 4/0 amp kit which fuse holder, grommet and distribution block
Yo that point you made about what if someone else finds themselves with the same thought I just had. I think is really important and when need more people sharing info just like that in the bass community. I have so many difficult questions that I can't seem to get answered do to the sheer difficulty of trying to search my question online.
But videos discussing topics like this help so much for those small things I get very hung up on and have no one to ask questions to
The conversation was started with Is nikolai Tesla and you bringing light to it Is a refreshing change. With close to 30 years myself doing car audio I found that dual inputs present a definitive reduction in cable temperature (even on short runs) Which by definition will decrease resistance and give you higher voltages to the actual amplifier. If you have a big pipe, you can always turn the volume up. If your pipes too small, you have to get another pipe.
I’m running 3 1/0 tinned ofc front to back. 2 off battery and one off alternator. Then of course the alt to front battery. Makes a circle. Have 2 isolators in the back for my lithium bank. I’m using isolator on each run from battery and the alternator comes into one of the isolator. Thing to remember with DC voltage is it travels on the outside the copper (not sure why it’s physics). I run 3 as I want my amp to power and lithium bank to charge.
When you have short runs, the ampire rating will increase. I have a MD 8000 1 I plan on running 1 run of 2/0 less than 2 feet away. I can't imagine there will be enough voltage drop to need more. Failed to mention that it is over 4,000 strands of marine grade OFC. Wire quality has a lot to do with it also.
I've always used the analogy "what do you get more drink with the least amount of sucking out of, a bar sip straw or a McDonald's straw?" Obviously, the McDonald's straw. Now, how many bar sip straws would add up to the same amount as the McDonald's straw? I've used KNU for a lot of installs throughout the past 15+ years. I currently have switched to a pure copper welding wire OFC. My 08 Silverado has a 300A alternator going to a second AGM battery with 1/0 wire then going to my Wolfram O-2400 on a single run. Now with the 8k I would definitely recommend going with dual runs of 1/0 or even 2/0 to the cap and also to the amp. I would also recommend using inline fuses near the battery and between the cap and amp. Less risk of fire and overheating or frying the amp.
You eat McDonald's? Shits gonna kill you man. Eat organic if you want to live longer
You miss the point . It's about the length of the wire to the load .
@@Cal3666 no because although that is true, if you want less restriction and not starving your amp then you will go with the bigger power wire to the amp. So yeah I calculated that factor in.
@@bigcajoneskelly1377 I hear . I just assumed what you just replied was a given . Thank you for the discussion 🙏.
But, as far as "dial inputs, I must say , The engineers would know this topic as well to put the proper size input on the amplifiers ..... just a discussion...
Parker 💯👏👏 nice hit..
Good word Deacon!
You are absolutely correct!👍💡When you look at the power cables on the inside of the amp, it's not doubled up like that, it only has one run of power and one run of ground that is about 8 or 9 inches long. So the only time i think you would "need" a doubled up power and ground supply is when the power supply is a long way away from the amp itself👍 I see people using a straw size as an example but they fail to realize that no matter how many straws/cables you put together to suck the juice/power from the cup/battery that when the juice/power gets to that single straw/cable, that it's only going to be able to allow the juice/power enter that, that one straw/cable is rated to handle. 💡It's like when people install a 102mm size air intake throttle body onto a 90mm intake manifold thinking they're getting more air flow thus making more power, but they don't understand that if the 90mm hole size doesn't change then they're getting the same amount of air that they began with because that 90mm opening is still the same size as before. Would it hurt anything? No. Is it necessarily needed? Also No. I totally understand your breakdown of what you're explaining👍👍
As an owner of 4 of these amps that have been clamped at over 8700 watts you are exactly correct. Dual inputs are not needed unless it is a long (more than 10' ) run. Well put.
Great video it’s better to be safe than sorry
I just use more runs of big cable because it makes me feel like I’m more of a man.
😆
I had too man. Great video. I’ve currently been battling the same dilemma in my head.
Nice very informative! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
personally I'm running the exact same wire from Knuconcepts and I love it, I say if the numbers are good than run a single run. But keep it fused on booth ends and keep a fire extinguisher close by, but you should be doing those no matter what... Lol nah man I honestly think the dual runs is for overkill purposes and to more than supply what the demands are calling for..... but that's just my humble opinion. And by the way I loved this video and how you put all your facts together first and presented them in a learning manner. Keep up the great content man.
Thanks for the compliment!
Nice I ran knu but I noticed the wire was getting warm, in a cca, I then switched to skyhigh 4 awg ofc in another build haven’t had any problems
Its an understandable question. Voltage dropoff over length is a factor for those who don't run batteries in the back. Even tho wire has gotten better over time for most you still have a form of power escape. Thanks for the video sharing your results.
Nice vid bro
Budget Basshead literally shouting out everyone who I watch on the daily along with himself lol. Never miss a video keep up the good work man. Iv been debating what in gonna do with my budget SPL build and thanks to your channel i think im going to go with 4x Toro force 12S and big D wiz amp test of the Skar RP2000.1 got me wanting to run 4 of those. Mostly because i already own 2 of those amps
I think you're definitely headed in the right direction 👌
you could do a test with and without the dual inputs on an spl meter if you have one.
Did you have that Ioxus Ultra Cap installed in your vehicle? I thought about buying one however I noticed they had a recall for catching fire. Just curious on your thoughts.
Great detailed info here grade A content 👍🏽👊🏽✌🏽💯
Glad you enjoyed it
Im running a 150 amp stock alternator with a agm 70 ah up and 3 2400 agm batteries in the back with 336 ah on a bass 8k taramps at full tilt voltage doesn't drop unless it starts to clip? If the subsonic filter is set right you won't have any problems? Another thing is high output alternators are basically for spl competitions? Because the car is at idle going full tilt? I have a daily driving setup meaning there's no need for me to drive down the street full tilt? Amplifier won't pull a lot of current if you keep the volume reasonable
Honestly even if I don't need the extra current ,I just like the way they look. Lol I always have enough wire .so for $20 for some dual inputs to get the look I want ,I think it's worth it cosmetically speaking of that's wat you like to see.
$20 plus the cost off the wire at $5-10 a foot
I just used 50ft of SkyHigh 1/0 in my build...Knu Konceptz was the other choice. Knu wire is silver tinned and the skyhigh is not if I am not mistaken. Skyhigh is oversized with a high strand count if I remember correctly. Both are great according to the couple installers I know. One said he only uses skyhigh so I just went with them.
Now I have to go watch the hifi Vega vid on it...good video man. Much appreciated.
200 bucks for 50ft btw...not cheap.
I agree. Not the cheapest. But its durable and marine grade. Good stuff for those of us in coastal areas. Salt water climate is hard on copper and aluminum.
Sky High has a tinned OFC option now, as well as regular OFC.
I'm on 5k and just doubled my runs from my LTO bank to the amp and it made a noticeable difference. I had a single 0AWG OFC and now have two for power and ground. Absolutely can tell the difference. Amp goes louder before clipping, voltages are overall higher (gained about 0.3v to my min). I'm a believer.
You are right ! Length of the wire to the load .
I'm a little late to the party, but I'm curious. If 4/0 AWG is good for 380 amps(as stated on the chart for chassis wiring), wouldn't 2 runs help you deliver the 700+ amps that's this amplifier would consume at full tilt? I know it's a short run from your 2nd battery to the amplifier, but it would seem as if 2 runs would help deliver the amps needed.
I’m new to car audio so I would appreciate you giving me some advice I have an excess power D 3400 and the D 3100 and I have a 330 amp alternator I got the amp in this video and a jp 234
That will have 4ohm speakers deaf bonce Sylvester’s and neo tweeters and deaf bonce sa 302s for subs is that sound or where do I need to improve I was going to go 0/1 awg also did the big 4
Damn good topic 👏
Very good video. My input would be how much is your amplifier or amplifiers going to draw? How long can your batteries or lithium cells sustain the draw and recuperate from one 300 amp alternator? I think your on track with the names of the people you mentioned. Ask your questions to them too. I'm of the frame of mind having more is a safer bet than not having enough. In other words a more powerful amplifier so your no clipping trying to feed your hungry speakers. There's a lot to factor in including the type of music you listen to and how loud and long you'll be listening to it. Good luck my friend. 👍👍👍
So Resistance = voltage drop + cap or another battery = battery capacity issues because of the long run from the battery still? But not abrupt voltage drop= bigger runs ? So I’m understanding this correctly?
I guess it might be cool for a capacitor to run up close.
You should teach a class on car audio, your very good at this.
Thanks for the suggestion.
So dual runs from front battery to back and single run from back battery to amp?
That wire is just fine man .it will work gooooood 👍😎
I'm thinking there ARE situations where dual inputs will benefit the amp, such as some full-bridge amps with undersized power/ground terminals.
Can you send me a link for the dual inputs?
Derek over at sundown ran a single 0 did a power test on the sundown amp,,, ran the second test would double 0/0 input got around a hundred more watts at every 0hm load and drew10 to 20 less amps at every home load
Gp car audio already did test results on this about 1.5 years ago.
What are those things called
Just do a search for "wire gauge chart" then click Images the chart will look like a rainbow you can't miss it, go by that and give the middle Eagle to anyone who says anything about it to you. That's what the pros do! The chart says 4 gauge copper cable can pull 250 to 300 amps up to 4' BOOM! You are right!
He's using 0/4 gauge not 4 gauge.
For me basically after 00 gauge awg i would just measure voltage to see if the drop is big enough to justify more wiring.
My recent build I bought dual 0 gauge pure copper ones first time I even ran them on a 4k system I did notice a different
What is the difference you noticed?
@@concretesub8253 my voltage stays higher with dual runs of wire I'm also running a mechman alternator and 3 xs power batteries
@@zeth15943 ok great. Would you have run dual 0g to a 3400w rms sub amp?
@@concretesub8253 I'm running a 3000 watt amplifier but it's a audiopipe it's power hungry does well over 3000 watts tho I would recommend dual runs
@@zeth15943 ok i will also run another 0g to my amp,thanks mr.
Looking at a voltage drop calculator, you might see something like 6% drop at with 4 awg, 2 feet, and 700 amps. 14 volt becomes 13.1 volts
Thanks for sharing
Have you ever looked into GP Car Audio wires?
They always come up in my search during my query for wiring but I never choose them because of the price
You also need wire ferrules for the interior wire if you going to use those inputs to the amp1 wires sticking out of that can blow your whole system
Wire ferrules are horrible on my MD8000.1. I love the idea of ferrules but in reality they are a bad idea if you ever want to pull the power from the MD8000... The ferrule gets stuck in the input and you have to physically have to rip the wire from the amp even with the set screw all the way out. The wire pulled out of the ferrule and then you have a bent up ferrule stuck in the amp. They are a pain to get out of the input. It takes like 10 minutes each to dig out with needle nose pliers. Since then I've never used the ferrules and I've never ever had an issue.
I try to use high power amps that already have multiple power inputs, I have a Wolfram aw9k, I used these things and they were so close that they melted, 250 amp x 2 fuses burnt, luckily the amp was not damaged, I would buy those newer amps in the market that have 3 and 4 sets of power inputs, I am very hesitant to use these things now because of this experience, I know not all amps have the power inputs as close as Wolfram amps do, so again I would purchase amps with multiple power inputs like the taramps smart bass 5k, I have other amps that are 3k and lower and they only have 1 set of power inputs and I believe that is fine, I now think it's a waste of time and money buying amps that are more than 3k with only 1 power input, so if you can use them safely on your md since you already have it then it's fine, but that's why I don't buy these amps, like the taramps bass series also, taramps got smart and started making smart series with dual inputs and the smart bass can be wired below 1 ohm and put out 8k on a 5k.
I run dual inputs because I’m cheap. 2 20ft runs of OFC 1/0 is almost $300 from sky high. I’m running 2 runs of 2g CCA jumper cables from Amazon, with the dual inputs it all cost around $50 in total. Is it the same as the OFC? Still no, but it’s better.
B4 even watching (because I have the 12k model and have own several 8ks) u can fit as big as 3/0 welding cable in these amps and one run of that is plenty sufficient and using these non copper inputs would not really see any improvement...theyre really only needed if running 1/0 imo
So I have only been back in Car audio for about 5 years now. I went with the numbers and I could not pull the power from my amps as I should. I added a 2nd run of 0 gauge and I went up 1000 watts. At comps I was running a BC5500 at .67 Ohms. I was only pulling 3800ish watts from it. No other changes, I ran a 2nd run of 0 Gauge and pulled over 5000 watts clamped at a comp the very next weekend. The show was at the same location and the temps out side were only a few degrees difference. I don't think it's just about how much power the wire can handle but the resistance in the wire. Running 2 runs of wire at the same time takes a lot less time than running 1 run and a 2nd run later down the road.
Thanks for the comment
I see that was 1/0 not 4/0. To answer your question I would say yes it needs at least two runs of 1/0 and if it was me I would run three for head way when in hi demands of current. Good luck with your build.
Can the ioxus super cap be paired with an agm in the rear? Or would the super cap have to replace the rear battery? Any help is appreciated
Yes. They were designed for that exact purpose.
@@BudgetBassHead Ok thanks! I purchased one already but was seeing online that they replace a battery. I wanted to add the ioxus to my group 31 in back and just was a little confused.
I have my ioxus ultra cap installed in the back of my suv along with 4 d7500s....it does the job well keep my voltage stable during my playtime😁
I would run a double (or to be safe triple) run zero gauge from your alt to the back.
Yeah I never hear people mention heat. That's a huge factor.
If you look at aluminum wire comes to your main house meter it's super thin for as much amperage as it runs through it, then compar that to meter to panel. Because of conduits (contained heating)
You go bigger.
It's a total system that HAS TO be thought through too many weak links and status quo gimmicky gold plated sheet metal screws. Out there.
Your amazing video speaks about common sense.
Like h.o Alternators but a cheap ass walmart neverstart battery is the storage device. Etc....
Science is Science. And go bigger than you need and quality stuff in Power and rca cables within reason will never backfire on you.
I believe your 4 awg at 2ft would be ok. Id think to be safe go big just that way the amps get what they draw. Thats a great question
Steve from smd west cost car audio did a video on how much power is lost running i think it was 2/0 awg and ofc about 15ft and it showed a few hundred watts lost. Dont qoute me on the specs but i do rember theres a loss of power with awg but at decent length. I dont think it was enough to make a noticeable difference
I am only using the single run of 2/0 to my inputs on my cab45 because the run from my lithium to amp is about 2' everything is double 2/0 to the lithium there's no way it needs more than one 2/0 to a 5k in such a short run, using dual inputs in 2' would just be for looks. I'm a welder and when we're using a stick welder in a mill we may have a 200' run of lead and commonly using at least 2/0 sometimes 4/0 90% of the way but the stinger that goes on the end can have a 20' whip sometimes and it will go from that big cable to as small as #4 on that whip. Most people seriously go overkill on there power wires.your amp may have a 350A draw capability but you will never see that for more than a split second most of the time at full volume waaaay less. But if you ever upsize your amp it's nice to already have big gauge wire and there's no down side of big wire other than the pain in ass to to run and conceal it.
I think using the dual inputs will make things worse because it won't make good enough contact on the terminals compared to copper in the terminals.
6:41 into the video and just my experiences with this subject, I had 2500wrms amp pushing 1 18 everything stock 4g wire and it struggled or amp would get hot so I scrapped everything and started over with a md3k 0g all the way 8g speaker wire 2 zvx 15s and worked but my amps would drop fast im like wtf eventually it burned a channel in my amp.. so remind you iv done this since I was 16 all myself im 32 now. So round 3 of a big boy system (for daily) I scrapped 2nd build, I got a custom 5k amplifier 2 custom 15s 2500w rms I run (4) 4g grounds (4) 4g positives 1extra battery stock alt no big 3 pioneer touchscreen deck and not 1 issue. The real problem is how you use the amp if your trying to draw that 8k+ from that amp yeah id dual or more if your using it to test few 12s or 10s and they are all under 2krms 1 is fine but know, taramps DO NOT like low voltage im sure anyone who has had a few can tell you. BTW great video and topic hope this helps people out just remember its hard to drink a milkshake threw a coffee straw
👍
Dual inputs add more power and give better efficiency so definitely use dual inputs on this type of power. I would do dual inputs on a 4k and 5k if I'm running .5 if I'm running at 1 ohm then the single will be fine.
OMFG!!!! THOSE ARE 15 MIN ILL NEVER GET BACK!!!!
Big fan and user of both Knu-Koncepts cable and welding cable. Grainger industrial supply is where I get 2AWG welding cable. A 50' spool was around a hunerd bucks last time I bought it.
"GAUGE" = meaningless marketing jargon
" AWG" = (American Wire Gauge) an actual unit of measure, being a standard used by manufacturers, consumers, wholesalers and retailers
I think running 2 runs of wire be more beneficial. Wouldnt it split the load in half so there would be less stress on each wire in turn keeping them cooler?
Dual . Less resistance for the flow of power. Less heat and less stress. Good enough for me and many others. You should do both ways to see and feel the difference.
I have 2 md8k's on my car, single cable from battery to amp, 4/0 awg and 40 cm long, i have clamped 6900 rms at 3ohms at 13,5v with each amp with that single wire, no drop at all. 216ah lifepo4 and 3x180a alts
Wow that's a beautiful electrical setup. 🤘
@@BudgetBassHead thanks man. I have a few videos on my channel
I'm a fan of overdoing it, especially when it comes to electrical, with that much power there's gonna be a decent amount of voltage drop unless your electrical is beefed up. I have a Taramps HD 5K and one run of 0 going to it, with 2 intimidator agms under the hood and a big Northstar NSB190 Blue+ agm close to the amp and my voltage still drops into the low 11's in my 2015 F250. Granted I haven't upgraded my alt yet.
Most guys say the h/o alt should be the first addition but for some of us that is the last thing we want to do.
Yep. The initial cost and installation process was my reason. But now I FINALLY got all my parts. And t only took 4 years 😄
Yeah, I didn't want to do an alt was hoping the stock one would be good enough, it's 200+ amps, don't remember exactly off the top of my head. Ill for sure have to eventually though, I want to throw a little more power at my X18v2's. I think most everyone actually hates spending money on big wire, batteries, alternators, etc.. it's expensive and very few people are impressed seeing that stuff, lol
@@scolombe1 After underpowering for so many years and then learning later, I am only now really enjoying redoing my electrical all nice and taking away any of those concerns. Guys like you and BB know what it all is when you see it.
Regular people just get to hear it in traffic and either they roll the windows up or they roll them down. Both ways I smile to myself.
If you’re dealing with more than 400 amps you’ll be better off using dual inputs because the amperage will be distributed along to power wires instead of one. Most full bridge amps that is over 5k rms will have dual inputs. The jp83 has triple inputs
Bass Thrashin did a video years ago on this and he gained in voltage by adding more runs.
Thanks for sharing
I hate to be so fickle, but I'm sticking with the single that I know. I would love to go dual , but I just don't know if it would be necessary or even Benificial at all.
2/0 oversized car audio is same as 4/0 awg or welding wire. 1/0 car audio is same as 2/0 awg or welding cable. Is how I use it. I dnt think 1/0 knu is 4/0 awg. I'd think 2/0 audio is 4/0 awg or welding.
I was realy happy because this amp came from My country
Taramps are making some of the best cheap amps out there today. They push some serious RMS wattage for very cheap. And it seems like the amps are fairly reliable too. Brazil 🇧🇷 FTW!
@@kilgoretrout4461 Brazil doens't develop any tecnólogy, but there every guys want to have a powerfull sound in their cars. So the enegenier work Very hard to get high RMS and when Go to USA one Real is leds thanks 0,25 cents of dólar só os Very cheap but is good . I am Very proud of thoes amps because i am doing elétrical emgeniier in universiti and those amp até inspiration to me
Each 0 gauge can support 4k max wattage already done the testing.
At what length?
I thought the same way you thought until my wires were too hot for me to touch, Dude you will melt and burn you wires if you don't add it
Were you using cca wire?
@@Widowmaker2828 ofc the same wire he is talking about
Can you describe your system? Do you have a Taramps MD8k? Do you have very short runs to a sufficient battery? Do you have the big 3 done? Did you run it at extremely low impedance? Something doesn't sound right.
@@Widowmaker2828 I had it on a sfb8000 currently I have a powerus 13k, but yes my runs were only 2ft from the two banks of 64 ah headway cells each so thats 128 ah. The wire wasn't really getting hot until I got another bank of headway cells so the amp was really able to produce its full power but only one run was bottlenecking my system causing it to get really hot and could have melt my wire if I played it for a long period.
@@quinton337 Wow, I am sorry to hear that. I have four of the MD8000.1s and have them all running off a single 5' long 2/0 as suggested by Taramps... (I have 270 ah of Yinlong cells) I demoed all day last Saturday hitting near 160 db all day. I checked the wires a few times and they were cool to the touch. My batteries are well wired to a 370 alt and I don't run the amps under the suggested ohm rating. I will be sure to keep an eye on my wires more often though. Thanks for your response.
Tbh if the amp didn't have dual input than you don't need it. If you wire one battery and ground cable on a amp that has two battery and ground. The amp will go in protect or cut off due to lack of power.
I have 3 runs of 4/0 XL sky high audio OFC to my amp, same for for my ground. 3 runs of 4/0 XL. Why you may ask? I had the wire ran and switched amps, new amp has three power inputs and three ground inputs, I didn't want to change my wire so I added the extra two runs. And I do have a set of solid copper dual inputs I use in one power and ground.
Also, I have a budget set of battery terminals that will accept that 4/0 wire, that would give u a clean battery. I’ll leave a link here and u can check it out. Thanks
Link below to Amazon. Is your kollossus wire OFC or CCA? Thanks again
Vgate Lead Acid Battery Terminal Clamps, 8AWG up to 4/0(XL) AWG Gauge, 12-Way Connectors, Positive and Negative (+/-)(Pair) for SAE/DIN/EN Tapered Top Post
Kollossus wire is tinned OFC
@@BudgetBassHead thanks for the reply. I used some if their wire before. Can't remember what they called it, brightly colored, flourecent almost. It looked great and done what I wanted it to. Wire is high right now, that XL wire I use is 11.00 per foot now. Wasn't nearly that expensive when I got mine. Thanks for the reply. U have a great channel and do an awesome job!!!
Hail to all the bassheads. Parker is switching the 12k to two 8k's like you from his last video.
Wow. He definitely has the Lithium for it. I simply wish I had an SUV like he does. So much more room to mount stuff!
I personally run dual runs, it looks more bad ass and it’s always good to have over head in your electrical current flow potential
😂
It dose look bad ass!
Id do a dual run, just to do it all at once. Better more than not enough. I had a dual run for 3k lol. I use 2/0 welding wire tho. I get 30ft for $72. Just the best budget way you can get lol.
Good tip. "Better more than not enough" Nothing wrong with 'future proofing'. 👍
@@BudgetBassHead yeah, especially with an 8k. They make dual 1/0 alternator brackets to run double to that also. Wire is expensive tho, so no team no fuse lol.
@@1ohmwrecker what site do you get it at that's a good price
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 so I went to get you the link. I bought it last nov 20, 2020 on ebay and its now $132!!! Price obviously went up considerably on ebay. I made a UA-cam video about it on my channel. I've bought 30ft of it twice for both my vehicles.
@@1ohmwrecker what's the site. Thank you in advance
I agree with dual runs but wanted to ask what exactly your battery setup is. I know you have a 320? amp alternator and it looks like you are using that super cap which isn't enough.
For every 1000w added you need 10ah of Lithium as a general guideline.
If I were you I would ditch the super cap and do a 80ah Lithium if you can, I think you would see more gains from that than dual runs.
I'm currently building a 64 amp hour of headway lithium iron phosphate
@@BudgetBassHead you will be in much better shape that way.
I run this amp on 2 vxf 12s at .5 ohm, the amp is about 4ft from my 40 ah lithium bank. This is just my take on it, I am not comfortable using 1 set. If I am running this much power then why not add a little insurance for the 30$ it costs.
2 runs would be needed. however, how long you been running the amp and whats your rise?
Wow my comment made it on a different video the this one and I don't see it here crazy I never actually seen the other video in till I got a❤️ thank you a little strange
Thanks for letting me know.
I'm confused are you running 2 batteries and a super cap or 1 battery and a super cap? Is the battery in the front or the back? If 2 batteries then.. Run the 1/0 from the alt to the front battery, run 1 line to the back battery, run 1 line to the cap, then 2 lines from the cap to the amp.
As planned.
@@BudgetBassHead You could also just do a copper bar from the lithium battery to the cap.. Just a thought.
Show us how you charge your car battery what do you use can I charge my car battery with my transformer it 12voltage output it ac 12 voltage output can I charge my car battery with it some one please help me I need help
My next video is car audio home setup I will show you guys all that stuff then
@@BudgetBassHead can I charge my car battery with my transformer 12 voltage output it AC output 12 voltage
In the 37 years of being in car audio I have learned to ALWAYS go with the numbers. If you're math is calculated properly it does not lie. As we all know the car audio industry is driven by a money market! This is why the engineer department and the marketing department of every company CLASHES. Every product that comes out of engineering it's manipulated by marketing and sent back to engineering to be redesigned for the sole purpose of the company to make money! As an engineer it's frustrating believe me!
There is amps with dual PG inputs and also the orion hcca with triple PG inputs is that crazy or what lol.
I bet you can run it on even smaller wire just imagine the leads inside the amp just a little heat that’s all lol
edit.... You do not have 4/0 you have 1/0. a tape measure itself is not a precision measuring tool. AWG is measured by cross sectional area of round, SOLID wire. Please please correct this in your video that it is not 0000. as you referenced wiki please read below the chart
"AWG gauges are also used to describe stranded wire. The AWG gauge of a stranded wire represents the sum of the cross-sectional areas of the individual strands; the gaps between strands are not counted. When made with circular strands, these gaps occupy about 25% of the wire area, thus requiring the overall bundle diameter to be about 13% larger than a solid wire of equal gauge."
4/0 single you would be fine. 4/0 is capable of more than 380 @ 20'. 4/0 has double the cross sectional area as 1/0 and too many commenting are thinking 1/0. and even then still don't have all the pieces. at 2' you would be fine with 2 gauge. I'd still run 2 runs especially for grounds only because I have seen too many ground traces in these amps burn up.
Numbers Don't lie. (Yours seem to be consistent). Let's remember. The guys using those 2 to 1 cable things "got bread" for all that double wiring and stuff. Looking at the charts...... I would be more inclined to follow the numbers. The doublers would be more useful when I have to use a double run on the bench with 4ga or when I run the 1/0from the battery to the rear power banks I can use the doubles with 4ga to my amps. Thank for the video. real world stuff.
Yep, I agree 👍 thanks for the support