For the screen filter, I use coloured acetate sheet, widely available and used by craft people to make collages etc. Best of all, it's less than £1 / 1euro per sheet! It's usually not as thick as the original (typ. 0.2mm) but once it's in the plastic bezel that doesn't matter. I tested some for filter properties i.e. how good it was at blocking colours other than the main one, and found it was not much different from the Philips original.
Yay. Great stuff. Have the same scope. Mains filter blew up big-time too, but in mine it's a black plastic box containing a RIFA and two inductors. so the mess was contained. Apparently Philips anticipated this and tried to mitigate potential damage. Not sure if is an earlier or later revision.The RIFAs on the PSU PCB were still intact but replaced pre-emptively. A bigger challenge was locating a replacement for the TO-76/77 packaged LM208H op-amp that failed in (I think) channel D. I lucked out and managed to source some NOS from Italy. Physically removing the attenuator assembly to get at the component was a much bigger challenge, however. These things are a b#*ch to dismantle!
happy to know i am not the only one struggling big time to open and pull out boards from the good old philips scopes :-) maybe i simply fail IQ level or patience level.
Rifa smoke bombs strike again ... I found that the Philips scopes from that era have the most confusing controls. This one is not that bad, but some of them are wild.
There is lab grade (Tek, HP - Highest quality components, sometimes hard to replace custom parts, high complexity but not very complicated: circuit stages designed to do one thing and do it well each, sometimes very custom parts are used), there is service grade (All kinds of smaller and house brands - Consumer electronics grade components, usually off the shelf, low complexity but very complicated: circuitry meant to do as much as possible with as few components as possible) .... And there are brands that just take a middle road (you probably could call it manufacturing grade, that is where it was often used) - Philips and Hameg are prime examples.
Having both Philips and Tek scopes, I agree they are in different leagues. The downside with Tek is indeed the use of hard-to-find, custom components as mentioned by @splitprissm9339. Tek mainly catered to government clients (DoD, NASA, etc) whereas Philips was more at home in commercial repair shops. In terms of reliability, both have their issues. I've had fancy components fail in the Teks. though the PSUs tend to be solid. In the Phlips it's mostly simpler stuff that fails, e.g. caps, PSUs. I will say however that the pots Philips used have aged far worse than those in Teks! The nice thing about these Philips scopes is the ability to set them up on the floor next to you, saving bench space. Both my Teks (5000 and 7000 series) are heavy bench scopes with plugins, though I acknowledge Tek made very good compact scopes as well (e.g. the 400 series).
For the screen filter, I use coloured acetate sheet, widely available and used by craft people to make collages etc. Best of all, it's less than £1 / 1euro per sheet! It's usually not as thick as the original (typ. 0.2mm) but once it's in the plastic bezel that doesn't matter. I tested some for filter properties i.e. how good it was at blocking colours other than the main one, and found it was not much different from the Philips original.
Yay. Great stuff. Have the same scope. Mains filter blew up big-time too, but in mine it's a black plastic box containing a RIFA and two inductors. so the mess was contained. Apparently Philips anticipated this and tried to mitigate potential damage. Not sure if is an earlier or later revision.The RIFAs on the PSU PCB were still intact but replaced pre-emptively.
A bigger challenge was locating a replacement for the TO-76/77 packaged LM208H op-amp that failed in (I think) channel D. I lucked out and managed to source some NOS from Italy. Physically removing the attenuator assembly to get at the component was a much bigger challenge, however. These things are a b#*ch to dismantle!
happy to know i am not the only one struggling big time to open and pull out boards from the good old philips scopes :-) maybe i simply fail IQ level or patience level.
Any chance of a 3D printer file for the screen surround? I managed to break one last night! Thank you.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6151981
if this link dont work ? goto thingiverse and simply search for Philips PM3244
@@TeardownOZ2CPU Perfect, thank you!
Rifa smoke bombs strike again ... I found that the Philips scopes from that era have the most confusing controls. This one is not that bad, but some of them are wild.
I got an HP Synth from the 70s, it has rifa caps on the input and since I moved I'm afraid to turn it back on before changing them
Nice Design Philips PM Series. I heave 3311, 3243 store and GM 5602 with 14MHz Broadband
🦬illoscope
Yeah, what's up with the Oxylloscope stuff? 😄
Give me an HP or Tektronics over this any day. This looks sketchy in build quality.
you are not fair :-) this is NOT in the same price range, far from it, so ofcourse it is not the same level of build quality.
@@TeardownOZ2CPU OK. I’m going to smoke some RIFA now. 🤣
@@SinnerSince1962 RIFA and Duracell :-) the most famous for beeing bad.
There is lab grade (Tek, HP - Highest quality components, sometimes hard to replace custom parts, high complexity but not very complicated: circuit stages designed to do one thing and do it well each, sometimes very custom parts are used), there is service grade (All kinds of smaller and house brands - Consumer electronics grade components, usually off the shelf, low complexity but very complicated: circuitry meant to do as much as possible with as few components as possible) .... And there are brands that just take a middle road (you probably could call it manufacturing grade, that is where it was often used) - Philips and Hameg are prime examples.
Having both Philips and Tek scopes, I agree they are in different leagues. The downside with Tek is indeed the use of hard-to-find, custom components as mentioned by @splitprissm9339. Tek mainly catered to government clients (DoD, NASA, etc) whereas Philips was more at home in commercial repair shops.
In terms of reliability, both have their issues. I've had fancy components fail in the Teks. though the PSUs tend to be solid. In the Phlips it's mostly simpler stuff that fails, e.g. caps, PSUs. I will say however that the pots Philips used have aged far worse than those in Teks!
The nice thing about these Philips scopes is the ability to set them up on the floor next to you, saving bench space. Both my Teks (5000 and 7000 series) are heavy bench scopes with plugins, though I acknowledge Tek made very good compact scopes as well (e.g. the 400 series).