Very much appreciate you sharing your thinking and also your kindness in answering so many of the questions, ( even the obnoxious ones ). You show a lot of class and culture, but some have forgotten those qualities. Thanks for explaining your process so well.
Currently digging a hole and I'm glad I found this video during break time! It never occurred to me to basically make a fake tree stump at the top. Ty ty ty ty!
Built a similar structure based on your formulas for a span of 55 feet. Used 2 2x12in at 14ft length one end and 2 2x12in at 12ft length at the end. This gave me a starting height of 10 feet above ground to 8 feet at the end. My kids love it. Thank you you for posting this!
I just completed a zip line in my backyard w/o trees. Fair warning: Trees are much cheaper. The costs for the posts and concrete and other things were an additional $400 - above the cost of the zip line set. I bought the slacker zipline set (100’) for $185 on Amazon - so the total project cost is somewhere close to $600!. I apologize that I could not paste pictures or drawings in this comment. Unlike Ryan Emerson’s yard, my yard is flat and not conveniently sloped. However, I did follow Ryan’s suggestion to use 2x12’s (treated) screwed (and glued using gorilla glue) together for the posts. At the low end, I followed Ryan’s instructions, I used 12-foot long lumber and buried it 4 feet down. I rented a two-man auger that dug a 12” diameter hole (rent from Home Depot - 12” auger was their biggest one) and then I widened it to a 14” hole with my manual post hole digger. Where the wide end of the posts would be in the hole, I widened the hole to 16” (making a sort of oblong hole) to give a minimum of 2” of clearance for concrete around the posts. To give the post more strength along the zipline direction and to reinforce the concrete, I drilled ½” holes in the bottom of the post for ½” rebar. I started a row of ½” holes 2” from the bottom of the post. The first row consisted of two holes - 2 inches from the bottom of the post and each hole 2 inches from the edge of the post. The next row of holes was 6” above the first row. I did this for 4 rows and inserted 14” long ½” rebar in each hole - before I put the post in the ground. I installed the post at a 5 degree backward angle and used 10 80-lb bags of fast set, high strength concrete. For the high end, I needed the start of the zipline to be at least 12’ foot above the ground - and I wanted the capability to go 13" high - if needed. So, I used 16 footers for my post (still using 2 - 2x12) . For this post, I buried it only 3’ and I used a guy wire anchor system to support the post. This gave me a post that was 13’ high. (used 6 bags of 80-lb concrete to set post). As before, I used ½” rebar to give the post more strength and to reinforce the concrete and installed it at a 5 degree backward angle. For the guy wire/anchor, I bought ½” inch diameter steel cable from Lowes and drilled a hole in the post at the 10’ foot point (at farthest point from anchor) and attached the cable to the chain that was buried in concrete. The anchor was 10’ from the base of the post. The anchor was a chain that was put into a 12” hole 3’ deep with re-bar through the chain (every other link) for strength. The hole was filled with concrete (5 80-lb bags). You will need to buy the guy wire cable, the chain, rebar, turn buckle and the wire clamps - you can go to smaller diameter cable if you wrap the cable more than once - either way, my calculations are that you need about 400 - 500 lbs of tension on the guy wire to counteract the bending forces from the zipline and to keep the post stable. Finally, I cut a 12-inch long piece of treated 2x 4 to hold the zipline at each end. I drilled an open 1” hole on the edge of the 2x4 and attached the 2x4 to the post with long screws. The zipline cable will fit into the 1” hole and this allowed me to adjust the height of the cable, if needed with minimal effort. Also, there is no wear on the posts. Do not worry about the 12" diameter "tree simulator" that Ryan made - that 12" diameter is defined by the zipline instructions because that is the minimum recommended size tree - it has nothing to do with the minimum bend radius of the zipline.
God bless you for sharing this and taking the time to answer everyone's questions so clearly and patiently. I'm exploring ways to help two campesino families in the highlands of Sopetran, Colmbia get their cacao pods up the slippery mountain safely where there are no trees big enough to anchor to (the cacao trees are small diameter) and where it is hard to dig or get materials up and poverty is rampant (this is part of our mission at Mercy University and at the Patel College of Global Sustainability). We are thinking of trying to use fertigation water filled IBC tanks (1 ton) as the anchors and are experimenting in Florida at the Rosebud Continuum Eco-Science Center, but as we are not an engineering college (more of an interdisciplinary policy college) we have a lot to figure out. Thanks so much for your experiments and experience in zip lines without trees and anchors!
This is a nice, simple, solution. Thanks for posting this. I have one tree to use for my zipline but it can't take the load. I also have lots of concrete in my garage, so I just need some 2x12's and I'm good to go to re-create this. This is great!
Yes, I meant the circular turnaround pieces-thanks for the additional information. There is a number I can call for additional safety info since I am not using trees as anchors, so I will call and listen to this. Hope it all turns out like yours! Thanks for sharing the video and instructions!
Yes, there is a lot more to consider than I expected! I do have the physical "manpower". I knew ur video showed 8 ft above the ground and should have realized you had the benefit of a sloping yard (I do too). My hubby is not an engineer but pretty savvy so I think with his help, we can do it. I think everyone involved is willing to try. Thanks for all your information!
Good luck. By the time I threw the kids on it and started the fine-tuning, I discovered that it's actually a pretty forgiving system. I wish I had LESS slope in my yard so that there was a little more heights-excitement at the launch point. Anyway, Bonnie - TAKE VIDEO AND POST IT for the rest of the community!
I'm planning to use 2-6x6 pressure treated post glued and bolted together. I'm putting them in the ground back to back not sure by side in the ground. Those 2x12's rot too quickly no matter the type or pressure treatment. For some reason the the 6x6's just don't rot as quickly plus it's way stronger = safer.
@@BILLYSHED we're working on following this as well Ryan, thank you for this! I noticed that in this video he only dug it 3 feet deep. We've had difficulty getting 4 feet down in our digging and wondering if that'll hold up? Ryan was the 4 feet a safety precaution or necessary to hold it?
@@therealmoshesegal I got the 4 foot recommendation from an old & trusted coworker / engineer who also had a farm. He was pretty firm about 4 feet minimum. Since I posted my original video, a site emerged that has the best guidance www.ziplinegear.com/pages/how-to-build-a-zip-line-section-one-concepts They also advise 4 foot minimum. If you can't get 4 feet, then use guy cables, again per the guidance at ziplinegear. Are you digging by hand for some reason?
Don't think that you need the half-circle pieces that mimic a 12" diameter tree. I understand that you read that the line shouldn't be kinked, but both the main cable and the attachment cable are bent around a 1/2" radius or less (the main cable is bent around this radius where it attaches to the tree attachment cable and the tree attachment cable is bent around this radius at each end). So, I think if you use a chisel and put a chamfer on the edge of your boards were the cable meets, you should be fine and you will not be even close to exceeding the minimum bend radius of the cable. I would put in some fence staple nails to keep the wire from sliding down/up the pole.
Russ, yeah I hear you -- I had that same thought about the other radii in the cables. But the specific warning against crimping the cable in the instructions made me think maybe they heat treated their pre-bent cables at the turn-around or something...? They sure don't spring back at all, so the manufacturer did something special there. Anyway, I opted for the conservative approach especially since wife was kinda itchy on the whole ordeal. Gotta pick your battles. Observing the wear and tear on the whole system over the past 18 months - I believe if I just went straight around the 2x12's, the cable would dig in and generate slack. My way distributes the load over larger area. And still chafed the edge of my little fakey tree turnarounds. Finally, a single nail at the rear of each fakey tree is plenty to keep the wire in place. Lots of cable pre-load and friction there. And hey -when are you gonna post your zip line install video?!?!
So I have two decks 85' apart form each other in the back yard. One is 6' 6" from the ground to the deck floor and the other is 6' from the ground to the deck floor. On top of these decks are little buildings that are 7' tall at the tallest points. Do you have any advice on the length of post/board and how deep to bury it to support riders of 250 lbs or less? Also, how should I mount the zipline to the beams/boards/posts? I see your mounting here, but given my spec not sure if it would change your advice. Thanks!!
You can use the equations and approach from my other video on this topic (ua-cam.com/video/a1KPl-M-dpM/v-deo.html) to guide your design. You will certainly need to go beefier than what I did, my "deck floor" on the start end was only about 3.5 feet high.
10 seconds into the video the guy let us all know "he is an engineer" while holding a beer with a smirk on his face" cant imagine what his family has to deal with his arrogance...lmao
Thank you for this video! It is awesome that you use your engineering knowledge to make fun activities for your kids. And it is amazing that you took the time to share that knowledge with other people. It wouldn't have been possible for our family, or many other families, to make a zipline without your video. We are going to be making the zip line with 2x12x16s, that will cantilever 12 ft above the ground. According to the equation from the calculation video, a 300 lb individual, would cause the 12 beam to deflect 3 in. Or 2 in if I used a 3 ply beam. I don't know if that's an acceptable amount of deflection. It certainly is not acceptable for building code. I think that works only allow 0.8 inches. But is it a dangerous amount of deflection? Could the beam fail? I looked up the modulus of rupture for sy pine (12,800 PSI when dry). I don't believe the force from the zipline is anywhere close to that, even for a 300lb adult at the 12' cantilever (7,500 Newtons? Or 48 psi for the 2-2x12?). I don't understand the math well to be sure I am doing it right. I also don't know when the amount of deflection (1-3") should be concerning. Thanks again for your video!
Aaron - I think you'll be fine with laminating three 2 x 12s. Manufacturer's instructions conservatively spec using minimum 12" diameter trees as anchors. Triple laminated 2x12's are ~64% of the stiffness of a 12" diameter cylinder, so that initially seems concerning... but remember that live wood is ~50% less stiff than the dried lumber you are using. So Bob's your uncle and you're back to parity with the conservative manufacturer's guidance. Have fun and shoot / post a video - I'd love to see.
I forgot to ask you how long were your 2 by 12 boards? My adventure parks zip line kit tells me I need ( for a rider 48 inches high) 126 inches at the high end cable height with an additional 48 inches in the ground. That means at least 14.5 length boards. I also need to include room above the zip line cable . How long were your boards and how many inches down from the top did you hang your cable?Also, how much cement did you use for each anchor? I plan to make a trip to Menards this weekend since boards and cement are both on sale-lucky me! I appreciate your time and input. Bonnie
I had the benefit of a sloping yard, so I was able to use 12-foot boards on each end. 4-feet in the ground, and 8-feet sticking up. That detail is clearly in my video. And the cables are attached essentially at the top on each end. If I were you, I would install an anchor system with guy wires at the start of the run, or do the bending calculations considering three 2x12s laminated at that end (at least). I hope you have help placing the boards into the holes in the ground. Two 2x12s laminated together are heavy and unwieldy as f**k and it took pretty much all my strength (as a 200-lb fairly fit guy) to carefully place them into the holes. As far as "how much concrete", I googled "concrete calculator" and that worked well. I admire your resolve but honestly with all your questions I suspect you might be biting off more than you can chew...?
Using a slightly modified version of your model. Only going 3 ft deep but using 3 2x12x16s. One side i cut shorter but its anchored to a pool deck as well for a platform. We are gonna figure out where to cut the landing to shorten it when we get the line up.
Ryan. Great video. Sounds like you're the engineer and certainly know alot more than most about the mathematical calculations to ensure this is safe. Do you see any harm in adding a 3rd 2x12? I would imagine 3 2x12s would create an even stronger "post" than 2?
It's funny how I think. I asked this question "4" years ago. No reply yet which is fine but just last weekend I built out my zip line pole and did in fact use 3 2x12s without even realizing I asked this question already. I'm not a structural engineer but just felt an additional board would add alot of strength to the pole. I was just coming back here to ask if you've ever posted the plans for the half-circle pieces that mimic a 12" diameter tree? I saw some discussion in the comments about it being necessary not and my feeling is a half-circle surely eliminates any major bending of the cable. I could certainly cut a few of these out of 3/4" plywood and glue and screw them together to make perhaps something 2" wide but my question is how to finish it with something vertical. Just putting the cable around 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood would just create a channel in a piece of the plywood as the cable is tightened. It looks as though you used small pieces of wood, mounted vertically around the semi-circle. What wood did you use? I other words what wood is strong enough to be used for these vertical slats that can withstand and not shatter when the cable is tightened?
Thanks for the kind comment, John! I intended this video to be instructional so I spoke very clearly and deliberately but (judging from the most-liked comments here) I guess people took that as attitude (?) and arrogance (?). Anyway. It's been an interesting study to watch the comments roll in over the years...
Hey buddy im not an engineer just a dad and Grandpa, did you use the same 2x12 on both ends ? I see you did say you went 4 ft in the ground that would make both ends exact size and in the ground correct, now my question is how high did you go at the start from the zipline and how low at the end ? im not an engineer but this is wat i need to do for my grandkids, thanks so much looks awesome
Yes, it was the same sized post on each end of the line. Each end had two laminated 2x12s. My yard naturally sloped about 6 feet from the start to the end of the line, so I did not need to construct a taller support post on the starting end.
Great video. I have a 280 feet line . I wana meke the zipline for kids and adults. Can i use 6x6 or 4x4 bolted together . Or is it beter ur way with 2x12. Thank you .
Vaso - If you plan to use a "stand-alone" post like I have, then my short answer is, "No". You cannot use 4x4 or 6x6 unless you intend to bolt it all together so that the "long" dimension of the compound post (along the direction of the zipline) is ~12 inches. And, at that point, you're much better off in terms of time and money just buying 2x12's. I discuss the reasons in my other video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1KPl... . Good luck and have fun!
We are in a very wet / rainy climate. What would be a good substitution if we were to use steel pipe? I'm worried, even with PT lumber, things would deteriorate fast. Also can you think of a removable option? We have a small yard, and it would be nice to be able to remove the posts when we don't use the set-up. Thank you
Hmm. If you want to use hollow steel pipe, then you need to choose one with a diameter and wall thickness to give a flexural stiffness equal or greater to what I calculated for the solid rectangular wood. See my other video that's linked in the description for the concepts and calculations. My other thought is that putting a zipline up and down sounds reasonable in theory, but in reality you aren't going to do it. It's a PITA. Finally, wood should last "long enough" even in a wet climate. Piers made of wood are constantly submerged and they don't fall apart. If I were you I would still use wood but would beef it up a little to compensate for the reduced mechanical properties when wet. You can look all that stuff up online. Good luck!
I have a question: I see that you are in a Northern part of the country, or at least not in the subtropics where the soil is a sand/loam base. We live in South Florida where the soil is sand and the water table is high. How would I know how deep to embed the post(s)? Would a guy wire back to a second short post or concrete footer help?
I'm not a soil engineer, so I don't know how to answer your question or where to look for guidance. If I were you, I would start with google searching terms like "soil, depth, cantilever loads, anchor, post, etc" Definitely a guy wire back to a second post will help. Just depends if you have the room for it, and it's an aesthetic preference and a safety consideration... Good luck!
Hi may I ask which zipline kit you used? I know you may not want to give anyone a plug, but I like the idea of knowing the durability of the product. ThNk you!
Hey Sara - in that case I would have used longer 2x12's on the "start" side (through lamination) then secured that end with a guy wire setup. I assume you're in this situation?
Check out my other video where I perform the calculations. You can use that same approach to calculate for your proposal, just need to change the cross-section from a rectangular solid to a hollow pipe and obviously you’ll need to change the material stiffness from wood to steel. Steel has a stiffness of 210 GPA, by the way. But go for it, you should be able to calculate it using the exact same approach I showed you in my other video.
Im using your design, will sink it in hole soon (other end will attach to a tree). My run is pretty long @ 175 ft. How did you align your posts? I can eyeball the post to the tree but would like to get it dead nuts on. Looked online for laser levels but 100ft is max distance is all a I can find for laser levels at a reasonable price. Thx. For everyone else, i did basically the same beam but put 1/2 rebar in the bottom 3 1/2 ft of the beam. About 16" long pieces right through the beam so 8" per side sticking out. Did about 18 of those. Coated the rebar in epoxy spray to prevent rust and put thick layer of tar on wood that will be in the concrete. For top 8 ft i used a UV tolerant stain and sealer and rounded off the edges with a router so kiddos cant get a splinter. To join the 2 2x12s i used A LOT of construction adhesive and a lot of screws. Maybe 5 or 6 tubes. Functionally speaking the 2 pieces are now one. Its pressure treated wood but finished off it looks like a nice piece of furniture. Time will tell if it will hold up in the elements. I plan on using gravel at the bottom of the hole, bring concrete above grade and slope it away from beam. Seal the concrete and put good caulk around beam where it meets the concrete. Doing this so rebar will never rust and wood will not rot for 100 years. Do it once, do it right
Sorry but no. I just used scrap 3/4 plywood, made a quick circle jig on my table saw (you can find videos of people doing that) to make four 12"-diameter discs. Notched-out a rectangle so it would slide onto the 2x12s, then laminated the four discs like layers of a cake. Then I just cut some small (maybe 1/4" x 3/4" cross section) pieces of clear grained pine and lined them up around the outside of the cake. Don't overthink it.
@@BILLYSHED what r your thoughts on a 6” diameter fence post cut to make a 3” thick half circle? At 6” diameter it’s not your 12” but would be easier then all that you mentioned. Also, what did you use to hold it in place? It’s hard to tell but it doesn’t look like you used any L brackets.
@@boondocks5 First - I think your approach should work just fine. Second, friction did a fine job holding my pieces in place. L brackets are probably overkill but if it gives you peace of mind, go for it. Again: don't overthink it!
Just one piece at each end. I didn't do any calculations but I figured it only cost a few bucks so what the heck. In any case, the concrete never even showed hints of cracking so either the rebars did the job or it was complete overkill. Good luck and please share your system when you get it running!
(1) Construction adhesive is thick, it did not "go all over the place" because I used a caulk gun. (2) The zip line kit was a gift, it is a common brand, not expensive, all the steel hardware was fine, it lasted for four years then I took it down because we moved.
Well... I built my post. The concrete calculator is saying 12 - 80lb bags needed for the same dimension hole you made. Seems like a lot... how many bags did you use?
@@LeeOliveiragetggg I did move, but I am 100% certain that my yard sloped 6-feet over that run. But I can understand your confusion. The 4-foot number you saw in my other video - that was used to illustrate the calculations for the two contributions to the line sag (not yard slope). And you may notice that around the 10:30 mark in the video that the contributions only add up to 37.5 inches so 4-feet was a decent "guess" for illustration purposes. My current advice to all folks is #1 don't overthink it and #2 follow the guidance given at www.ziplinegear.com/pages/how-to-build-a-zip-line-section-one-concepts (which goes hand in hand with advice #1). If that site existed 5 years ago when I was searching how to install my zipline (because I didn't have trees) then it would have saved me a lot of headache. My zipline videos are now essentially outdated but that's alright - that's progress!
I purchased a 90 ft zip line for my 8 grandchildren and want to install it with your instructions. I can have the holes dug for me but would like to know exactly how many feet apart were your anchor posts? Were they 90 ft apart-if the cable is 94 feet?
Bonnie, I'm not sure what hardware came with your kit. You're gonna have to measure it and sketch it out. If the instructions that came with your kit said "find two trees that are 90' max apart", then you should be good setting your posts at 90'.
Hey Ryan, good video. I'm considering building one myself. I'm also an engineer so I appreciate the technical talk, but I was looking forward to your next video explaining the loads and forces and I didn't see any. Do you have just the 2 pieces of bent rebar in the holes? 2 in each or 1? I'm planning on building mine using one tree at the end but will start with a post similar to yours. I'd like to see your calculations!
Jimmy D'Amore, okay. I didn’t know this day would come, but since you are the second person in about a week to ask, I’ll gladly share my thoughts and the calculations this evening. Kinda looking forward to it!
Hi Ryan. I may have missed it, but my question is how do the cables stay on the round? Just the tention alone? I'm sorry if I just missed that part. I just want to be sure. I just need 1 post....top end will have an actual tree. Thanks so much. I am humbled by your genius!!!
In my case (and probably most cases) the cable indeed stays on the round part through friction & without any external "help". If you designed a very "saggy" run, then maybe the cable would be inclined to slip. But in that case (a saggy run) you would have plenty of other problems. Have fun, good luck, and I'd love to see what your run looks like so upload a video and share a link when it's up and running!
Thanks for the video, I know it is a little old now, but I had another question. Why two 2x12s? Why not go with three? Would that end up being stronger? Thanks!
Joshua Swift , a third 2x12 obviously won’t hurt, but it’s not necessary. A zip line is a stiffness-dominated application- not a strength dominated. (Understand the difference between stiffness and strength). There are two elements of the zip line system that affect its stiffness performance - how much the anchor points move, and how much the cable stretches. These two factors each cause the rider to sag low in the middle of the ride. It’s the sag that needs to be mitigated / optimized. You don’t want too much but you need a little. I really should finish that second video, sharing the equations and all. The zip line package I bought off amazon came with a 90-foot steel cable, I think 3/16-inch diameter. I calculate that cable stretches significantly more than the two 2x12 end points bend. Adding a third 2x12 won’t significantly reduce the flex. And you don’t need it stronger. Those 2x12s can flex a lot more before they get close to breaking. Dammit now I wanna make that follow- on video. I’ve moved on to other things to play with but I should make that video.
Ryan Emerson , nice. Thank you. Another video that used your design mentioned 20 bags per hole and that seems like a lot. Do you recall roughly how many you used for 4 ft x 18 in hole?
David Wood sorry man, I don’t remember. If I said it in the video, then it was probably true. I do remember that I used an online calculator and actual usage was pretty damn close to what the calculator calculated. So if I were you, I would go with that. I also remember that by the end of it I kinda wished I had hired someone to do it… You know concrete is heavy dirty work!
I also would like to know the diameter of your turn buckles- I can cut a section of log in half but wonder should the circumference be? If not, can u give more details on your turn buckles. Thanks for your time!
To be clear: A "turnbuckle" is a very specific piece of hardware (google it). I assume you are instead asking about the circular turnaround pieces of wood that I added where the cables actually turn around the posts. I made them 12 inches diameter.
I forget (60lbs maybe?) - whatever the standard size bag the home store sells. I do remember that the bags filled the holes pretty much dead-on with what the volume guidelines on the bag says.
Its not so much that a heavier person would need deeper anchors. Four feet still is sufficient. But: for a 300-pounder, I would laminate (combine) three 2x12's instead of two at each end for the anchors. Also might need a stronger steel cable, probably 1/4 inch diameter instead of the 3/16 inch that comes with most kits.
I have watched this video and the video over the calculations. I do not understand how you built the half circle at the top of the post. What wood did you use? Is it one solid piece? What hardware did you use to adhere it to the post?
You're not the only person to ask. Don't over think it. Maybe it's time for me to make another video. Pretty sure I'd do a few things differently if I did another zip line. standby...
The rebars reinforce the concrete to counteract the tensile stresses that develop in that pathway around the front of the beams. I am not sure if it was necessary or not, but it only cost a few bucks and I figured what the heck, can't hurt!
Good Morning... I would love to pick your brain on a short zip line project I'm working on for my three children. I purchased telephone poles and I was planning to use them as anchor points. I would love to email with you directly if you don't mind. Please let me know and I can send you information/drawings on my concept. I'm a Civil Engineering Designer located in South Florida.
Actually, we moved from that house at the 3-yr mark and I took down the posts before we sold. The posts looked fine. It was pressure treated lumber. It didn’t need it to last forever anyway. Thanks for the encouraging and helpful comment btw
I dislike how rude you are to assumable your wife who is filming. Do you always treat her so poorly? I hope she moved on to greener pastures. Also if its your kid and not your wife, the same goes. Very bossy and rude. Take this for growth not as a hateful comment.
Aww. Your comment would have been constructive if you left out the "greener pastures" part. Why don't you take a little time to reflect and grow a little yourself, then try again?
Appreciate the video but the presentation kinda suck. We don't see the other end. Braking system. Suggestions on type of cable and other things. You're just focused on one thing, though important, the support and calculations. Once I saw a dude with a drink in his hand and just half the zip line I immediately knew this will be a just a video slapped together just for the hell of it.
Dude, 5 years ago when I made this video, there were dozens (probably hundreds?) of videos that other people had posted that showed details on their zipline kit, braking system and cables, etc. Why would I make another video on that? It's common knowledge and to repeat it would be a waste of peoples' time. Instead - my intention for this video was to share the ONE piece of the puzzle that WASN'T common knowledge: What the hell to do if your yard doesn't have 12"-diameter trees. So I gave my knowledge and findings to the world. And the response (comments and likes) shows that most people "got it" and appreciated the video. Good luck to you, man.
merk awad - You can use the equations that I provided to answer your question. Definitely you will experience more deflection. It might work- depends on the shape of the ground under your run
Very much appreciate you sharing your thinking and also your kindness in answering so many of the questions, ( even the obnoxious ones ). You show a lot of class and culture, but some have forgotten those qualities. Thanks for explaining your process so well.
Well thanks, my man! You just made my evening
Currently digging a hole and I'm glad I found this video during break time! It never occurred to me to basically make a fake tree stump at the top. Ty ty ty ty!
Yeah - the directions with my kit cautioned to avoid crimping the cable so that was my solution.
Built a similar structure based on your formulas for a span of 55 feet. Used 2 2x12in at 14ft length one end and 2 2x12in at 12ft length at the end. This gave me a starting height of 10 feet above ground to 8 feet at the end. My kids love it. Thank you you for posting this!
Awesome - glad it was helpful. Shoot and post a video, and link it in a comment!
I just completed a zip line in my backyard w/o trees. Fair warning: Trees are much cheaper. The costs for the posts and concrete and other things were an additional $400 - above the cost of the zip line set. I bought the slacker zipline set (100’) for $185 on Amazon - so the total project cost is somewhere close to $600!. I apologize that I could not paste pictures or drawings in this comment.
Unlike Ryan Emerson’s yard, my yard is flat and not conveniently sloped. However, I did follow Ryan’s suggestion to use 2x12’s (treated) screwed (and glued using gorilla glue) together for the posts. At the low end, I followed Ryan’s instructions, I used 12-foot long lumber and buried it 4 feet down. I rented a two-man auger that dug a 12” diameter hole (rent from Home Depot - 12” auger was their biggest one) and then I widened it to a 14” hole with my manual post hole digger. Where the wide end of the posts would be in the hole, I widened the hole to 16” (making a sort of oblong hole) to give a minimum of 2” of clearance for concrete around the posts. To give the post more strength along the zipline direction and to reinforce the concrete, I drilled ½” holes in the bottom of the post for ½” rebar. I started a row of ½” holes 2” from the bottom of the post. The first row consisted of two holes - 2 inches from the bottom of the post and each hole 2 inches from the edge of the post. The next row of holes was 6” above the first row. I did this for 4 rows and inserted 14” long ½” rebar in each hole - before I put the post in the ground. I installed the post at a 5 degree backward angle and used 10 80-lb bags of fast set, high strength concrete.
For the high end, I needed the start of the zipline to be at least 12’ foot above the ground - and I wanted the capability to go 13" high - if needed. So, I used 16 footers for my post (still using 2 - 2x12) . For this post, I buried it only 3’ and I used a guy wire anchor system to support the post. This gave me a post that was 13’ high. (used 6 bags of 80-lb concrete to set post). As before, I used ½” rebar to give the post more strength and to reinforce the concrete and installed it at a 5 degree backward angle.
For the guy wire/anchor, I bought ½” inch diameter steel cable from Lowes and drilled a hole in the post at the 10’ foot point (at farthest point from anchor) and attached the cable to the chain that was buried in concrete. The anchor was 10’ from the base of the post. The anchor was a chain that was put into a 12” hole 3’ deep with re-bar through the chain (every other link) for strength. The hole was filled with concrete (5 80-lb bags). You will need to buy the guy wire cable, the chain, rebar, turn buckle and the wire clamps - you can go to smaller diameter cable if you wrap the cable more than once - either way, my calculations are that you need about 400 - 500 lbs of tension on the guy wire to counteract the bending forces from the zipline and to keep the post stable.
Finally, I cut a 12-inch long piece of treated 2x 4 to hold the zipline at each end. I drilled an open 1” hole on the edge of the 2x4 and attached the 2x4 to the post with long screws. The zipline cable will fit into the 1” hole and this allowed me to adjust the height of the cable, if needed with minimal effort. Also, there is no wear on the posts. Do not worry about the 12" diameter "tree simulator" that Ryan made - that 12" diameter is defined by the zipline instructions because that is the minimum recommended size tree - it has nothing to do with the minimum bend radius of the zipline.
Dude.... video?!
I also would like to see a video or some pictures please and thanks.
God bless you for sharing this and taking the time to answer everyone's questions so clearly and patiently. I'm exploring ways to help two campesino families in the highlands of Sopetran, Colmbia get their cacao pods up the slippery mountain safely where there are no trees big enough to anchor to (the cacao trees are small diameter) and where it is hard to dig or get materials up and poverty is rampant (this is part of our mission at Mercy University and at the Patel College of Global Sustainability).
We are thinking of trying to use fertigation water filled IBC tanks (1 ton) as the anchors and are experimenting in Florida at the Rosebud Continuum Eco-Science Center, but as we are not an engineering college (more of an interdisciplinary policy college) we have a lot to figure out. Thanks so much for your experiments and experience in zip lines without trees and anchors!
This is a nice, simple, solution. Thanks for posting this. I have one tree to use for my zipline but it can't take the load. I also have lots of concrete in my garage, so I just need some 2x12's and I'm good to go to re-create this. This is great!
Yes, I meant the circular turnaround pieces-thanks for the additional information. There is a number I can call for additional safety info since I am not using trees as anchors, so I will call and listen to this. Hope it all turns out like yours! Thanks for sharing the video and instructions!
Yes, there is a lot more to consider than I expected! I do have the physical "manpower". I knew ur video showed 8 ft above the ground and should have realized you had the benefit of a sloping yard (I do too). My hubby is not an engineer but pretty savvy so I think with his help, we can do it. I think everyone involved is willing to try. Thanks for all your information!
Good luck. By the time I threw the kids on it and started the fine-tuning, I discovered that it's actually a pretty forgiving system. I wish I had LESS slope in my yard so that there was a little more heights-excitement at the launch point. Anyway, Bonnie - TAKE VIDEO AND POST IT for the rest of the community!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I just installed one of these in my yard.
Excellent. My pleasure.
I'm planning to use 2-6x6 pressure treated post glued and bolted together. I'm putting them in the ground back to back not sure by side in the ground. Those 2x12's rot too quickly no matter the type or pressure treatment. For some reason the the 6x6's just don't rot as quickly plus it's way stronger = safer.
Attitude :(
Uwu
Great job. Thanks for posting the video.
Followed your instructions. You rock! Kids love it. Thank you for sharing!!
Excellent! I went to your post and saw what you did. Very nice. Do you mind if I share the link to your video in my description?
You gave me the inspiration to do this :). You can use the link as you please :).
@@BILLYSHED we're working on following this as well Ryan, thank you for this! I noticed that in this video he only dug it 3 feet deep. We've had difficulty getting 4 feet down in our digging and wondering if that'll hold up? Ryan was the 4 feet a safety precaution or necessary to hold it?
@@therealmoshesegal I got the 4 foot recommendation from an old & trusted coworker / engineer who also had a farm. He was pretty firm about 4 feet minimum. Since I posted my original video, a site emerged that has the best guidance
www.ziplinegear.com/pages/how-to-build-a-zip-line-section-one-concepts
They also advise 4 foot minimum. If you can't get 4 feet, then use guy cables, again per the guidance at ziplinegear. Are you digging by hand for some reason?
Great job! And very cool, elegant design! Very inspiring
Thanks for the kind words!
"We don't have any trees" **tree sits right behind him**
Sweet Squishies - Not on my property. And those aren't 12" diameter trees anyway.
@@BILLYSHED I understand that, but there was a tree right behind you. And you said you had no trees, lol.
Sweet Squishies glad I was able to clarify it for you.
Don't think that you need the half-circle pieces that mimic a 12" diameter tree. I understand that you read that the line shouldn't be kinked, but both the main cable and the attachment cable are bent around a 1/2" radius or less (the main cable is bent around this radius where it attaches to the tree attachment cable and the tree attachment cable is bent around this radius at each end). So, I think if you use a chisel and put a chamfer on the edge of your boards were the cable meets, you should be fine and you will not be even close to exceeding the minimum bend radius of the cable. I would put in some fence staple nails to keep the wire from sliding down/up the pole.
Russ, yeah I hear you -- I had that same thought about the other radii in the cables. But the specific warning against crimping the cable in the instructions made me think maybe they heat treated their pre-bent cables at the turn-around or something...? They sure don't spring back at all, so the manufacturer did something special there. Anyway, I opted for the conservative approach especially since wife was kinda itchy on the whole ordeal. Gotta pick your battles. Observing the wear and tear on the whole system over the past 18 months - I believe if I just went straight around the 2x12's, the cable would dig in and generate slack. My way distributes the load over larger area. And still chafed the edge of my little fakey tree turnarounds. Finally, a single nail at the rear of each fakey tree is plenty to keep the wire in place. Lots of cable pre-load and friction there. And hey -when are you gonna post your zip line install video?!?!
agree
I love the part when you BBQ your kid in slowmotion at the end of the video... =)
Yeah, what's up with that? Very strange way to end this video...very strange, indeed!
@@marcianachsin2804 You need to be an engineer to understand that.. :D
So I have two decks 85' apart form each other in the back yard. One is 6' 6" from the ground to the deck floor and the other is 6' from the ground to the deck floor. On top of these decks are little buildings that are 7' tall at the tallest points. Do you have any advice on the length of post/board and how deep to bury it to support riders of 250 lbs or less? Also, how should I mount the zipline to the beams/boards/posts? I see your mounting here, but given my spec not sure if it would change your advice. Thanks!!
You can use the equations and approach from my other video on this topic (ua-cam.com/video/a1KPl-M-dpM/v-deo.html) to guide your design. You will certainly need to go beefier than what I did, my "deck floor" on the start end was only about 3.5 feet high.
Nice video! Did you look at using a steel post(round or square) & either burying or bolting to concrete? Tks
I had no doubt you were 100% an engineer lol all the same demeanor
Thanks 😘
10 seconds into the video the guy let us all know "he is an engineer" while holding a beer with a smirk on his face" cant imagine what his family has to deal with his arrogance...lmao
But thats him and its not like hes wrong.
Sounds like an Engineer to me.
You right,..Sounds like a pedantic, arrogant narcissist engineer,...there I fixed it.
Utility pole....then being square and crimping isnt an issue.
Looking for another video with more more tech advice but couldn’t find? Thanks
Thank you for this video! It is awesome that you use your engineering knowledge to make fun activities for your kids. And it is amazing that you took the time to share that knowledge with other people. It wouldn't have been possible for our family, or many other families, to make a zipline without your video.
We are going to be making the zip line with 2x12x16s, that will cantilever 12 ft above the ground. According to the equation from the calculation video, a 300 lb individual, would cause the 12 beam to deflect 3 in. Or 2 in if I used a 3 ply beam.
I don't know if that's an acceptable amount of deflection. It certainly is not acceptable for building code. I think that works only allow 0.8 inches. But is it a dangerous amount of deflection? Could the beam fail?
I looked up the modulus of rupture for sy pine (12,800 PSI when dry). I don't believe the force from the zipline is anywhere close to that, even for a 300lb adult at the 12' cantilever (7,500 Newtons? Or 48 psi for the 2-2x12?).
I don't understand the math well to be sure I am doing it right. I also don't know when the amount of deflection (1-3") should be concerning.
Thanks again for your video!
Aaron - I think you'll be fine with laminating three 2 x 12s. Manufacturer's instructions conservatively spec using minimum 12" diameter trees as anchors. Triple laminated 2x12's are ~64% of the stiffness of a 12" diameter cylinder, so that initially seems concerning... but remember that live wood is ~50% less stiff than the dried lumber you are using. So Bob's your uncle and you're back to parity with the conservative manufacturer's guidance. Have fun and shoot / post a video - I'd love to see.
@@BILLYSHED Thank you! I will definitely post a video
I forgot to ask you how long were your 2 by 12 boards? My adventure parks zip line kit tells me I need ( for a rider 48 inches high) 126 inches at the high end cable height with an additional 48 inches in the ground. That means at least 14.5 length boards. I also need to include room above the zip line cable . How long were your boards and how many inches down from the top did you hang your cable?Also, how much cement did you use for each anchor? I plan to make a trip to Menards this weekend since boards and cement are both on sale-lucky me! I appreciate your time and input. Bonnie
I had the benefit of a sloping yard, so I was able to use 12-foot boards on each end. 4-feet in the ground, and 8-feet sticking up. That detail is clearly in my video. And the cables are attached essentially at the top on each end. If I were you, I would install an anchor system with guy wires at the start of the run, or do the bending calculations considering three 2x12s laminated at that end (at least). I hope you have help placing the boards into the holes in the ground. Two 2x12s laminated together are heavy and unwieldy as f**k and it took pretty much all my strength (as a 200-lb fairly fit guy) to carefully place them into the holes. As far as "how much concrete", I googled "concrete calculator" and that worked well. I admire your resolve but honestly with all your questions I suspect you might be biting off more than you can chew...?
This looks great. Thinking if something like this for our backyard!
Using a slightly modified version of your model. Only going 3 ft deep but using 3 2x12x16s. One side i cut shorter but its anchored to a pool deck as well for a platform. We are gonna figure out where to cut the landing to shorten it when we get the line up.
Jason Neil , Awesome. Shoot and link a video when you’re ready- I’d love to see.
Ryan. Great video. Sounds like you're the engineer and certainly know alot more than most about the mathematical calculations to ensure this is safe. Do you see any harm in adding a 3rd 2x12? I would imagine 3 2x12s would create an even stronger "post" than 2?
It's funny how I think. I asked this question "4" years ago. No reply yet which is fine but just last weekend I built out my zip line pole and did in fact use 3 2x12s without even realizing I asked this question already. I'm not a structural engineer but just felt an additional board would add alot of strength to the pole.
I was just coming back here to ask if you've ever posted the plans for the half-circle pieces that mimic a 12" diameter tree? I saw some discussion in the comments about it being necessary not and my feeling is a half-circle surely eliminates any major bending of the cable.
I could certainly cut a few of these out of 3/4" plywood and glue and screw them together to make perhaps something 2" wide but my question is how to finish it with something vertical. Just putting the cable around 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood would just create a channel in a piece of the plywood as the cable is tightened. It looks as though you used small pieces of wood, mounted vertically around the semi-circle. What wood did you use? I other words what wood is strong enough to be used for these vertical slats that can withstand and not shatter when the cable is tightened?
I would love to see more about this build; especially the "turn buckle" construction.Thanks!
thanks bud, appreciate your effort!
Thanks for the kind comment, John! I intended this video to be instructional so I spoke very clearly and deliberately but (judging from the most-liked comments here) I guess people took that as attitude (?) and arrogance (?). Anyway. It's been an interesting study to watch the comments roll in over the years...
Hey buddy im not an engineer just a dad and Grandpa, did you use the same 2x12 on both ends ? I see you did say you went 4 ft in the ground that would make both ends exact size and in the ground correct, now my question is how high did you go at the start from the zipline and how low at the end ? im not an engineer but this is wat i need to do for my grandkids, thanks so much looks awesome
Yes, it was the same sized post on each end of the line. Each end had two laminated 2x12s. My yard naturally sloped about 6 feet from the start to the end of the line, so I did not need to construct a taller support post on the starting end.
Great video. I have a 280 feet line . I wana meke the zipline for kids and adults. Can i use 6x6 or 4x4 bolted together . Or is it beter ur way with 2x12. Thank you .
Vaso - If you plan to use a "stand-alone" post like I have, then my short answer is, "No". You cannot use 4x4 or 6x6 unless you intend to bolt it all together so that the "long" dimension of the compound post (along the direction of the zipline) is ~12 inches. And, at that point, you're much better off in terms of time and money just buying 2x12's. I discuss the reasons in my other video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1KPl... . Good luck and have fun!
We are in a very wet / rainy climate. What would be a good substitution if we were to use steel pipe? I'm worried, even with PT lumber, things would deteriorate fast. Also can you think of a removable option? We have a small yard, and it would be nice to be able to remove the posts when we don't use the set-up.
Thank you
Hmm. If you want to use hollow steel pipe, then you need to choose one with a diameter and wall thickness to give a flexural stiffness equal or greater to what I calculated for the solid rectangular wood. See my other video that's linked in the description for the concepts and calculations. My other thought is that putting a zipline up and down sounds reasonable in theory, but in reality you aren't going to do it. It's a PITA. Finally, wood should last "long enough" even in a wet climate. Piers made of wood are constantly submerged and they don't fall apart. If I were you I would still use wood but would beef it up a little to compensate for the reduced mechanical properties when wet. You can look all that stuff up online. Good luck!
Does the weight capacity change at 2 x 2x12's vs 3 x 2x12's?
Yep. Capacity is proportional in that respect.
@@BILLYSHED Thank you for posting!
@@vincentmetcalf8829 You bet.
I have a question: I see that you are in a Northern part of the country, or at least not in the subtropics where the soil is a sand/loam base. We live in South Florida where the soil is sand and the water table is high. How would I know how deep to embed the post(s)? Would a guy wire back to a second short post or concrete footer help?
I'm not a soil engineer, so I don't know how to answer your question or where to look for guidance. If I were you, I would start with google searching terms like "soil, depth, cantilever loads, anchor, post, etc" Definitely a guy wire back to a second post will help. Just depends if you have the room for it, and it's an aesthetic preference and a safety consideration... Good luck!
Hi may I ask which zipline kit you used? I know you may not want to give anyone a plug, but I like the idea of knowing the durability of the product. ThNk you!
Ericka Melvin It was Slackers brand.
What would you have done differently if your yard didn't have that slope downward?
Hey Sara - in that case I would have used longer 2x12's on the "start" side (through lamination) then secured that end with a guy wire setup. I assume you're in this situation?
Was going to use galvanized steel poles over wood posts , any thoughts?
Not enough info
4” galvanized steel pipe to prevent rust , cemented in ground , won’t deteriorate like pressure treated wood over time .
Drill a hole , run a eye bolt through the top of the pipe and attach the cable
Check out my other video where I perform the calculations. You can use that same approach to calculate for your proposal, just need to change the cross-section from a rectangular solid to a hollow pipe and obviously you’ll need to change the material stiffness from wood to steel. Steel has a stiffness of 210 GPA, by the way. But go for it, you should be able to calculate it using the exact same approach I showed you in my other video.
Thank you so much !
Im using your design, will sink it in hole soon (other end will attach to a tree). My run is pretty long @ 175 ft. How did you align your posts? I can eyeball the post to the tree but would like to get it dead nuts on. Looked online for laser levels but 100ft is max distance is all a I can find for laser levels at a reasonable price. Thx.
For everyone else, i did basically the same beam but put 1/2 rebar in the bottom 3 1/2 ft of the beam. About 16" long pieces right through the beam so 8" per side sticking out. Did about 18 of those. Coated the rebar in epoxy spray to prevent rust and put thick layer of tar on wood that will be in the concrete. For top 8 ft i used a UV tolerant stain and sealer and rounded off the edges with a router so kiddos cant get a splinter. To join the 2 2x12s i used A LOT of construction adhesive and a lot of screws. Maybe 5 or 6 tubes. Functionally speaking the 2 pieces are now one. Its pressure treated wood but finished off it looks like a nice piece of furniture. Time will tell if it will hold up in the elements.
I plan on using gravel at the bottom of the hole, bring concrete above grade and slope it away from beam. Seal the concrete and put good caulk around beam where it meets the concrete. Doing this so rebar will never rust and wood will not rot for 100 years. Do it once, do it right
Hi how much concrete did you use per hole?
That was years ago, I forget, but I do remember that it was pretty darn close to what the online concrete bag calculators calculated
Any chance you have a link to the half circle piece? You’ve convinced me to try the 2x12s but I can’t figure out that half circle item.
Sorry but no. I just used scrap 3/4 plywood, made a quick circle jig on my table saw (you can find videos of people doing that) to make four 12"-diameter discs. Notched-out a rectangle so it would slide onto the 2x12s, then laminated the four discs like layers of a cake. Then I just cut some small (maybe 1/4" x 3/4" cross section) pieces of clear grained pine and lined them up around the outside of the cake. Don't overthink it.
@@BILLYSHED what r your thoughts on a 6” diameter fence post cut to make a 3” thick half circle? At 6” diameter it’s not your 12” but would be easier then all that you mentioned. Also, what did you use to hold it in place? It’s hard to tell but it doesn’t look like you used any L brackets.
@@boondocks5 First - I think your approach should work just fine. Second, friction did a fine job holding my pieces in place. L brackets are probably overkill but if it gives you peace of mind, go for it. Again: don't overthink it!
Hi Ryan, just wondering how many pieces of rebar did you put on the concrete?
Just one piece at each end. I didn't do any calculations but I figured it only cost a few bucks so what the heck. In any case, the concrete never even showed hints of cracking so either the rebars did the job or it was complete overkill. Good luck and please share your system when you get it running!
Thank you! Mind telling me how you attached the circular wood to the post?
Amber Padurean I pounded a nail underneath it. Friction does most of the work. It doesn’t want to fall down.
Do you have a preference on the concrete to use to secure the posts?
Did the adhesive do it all over the place? Why did you get the one that you had? Was the anchor point in that one have a good cable line?
(1) Construction adhesive is thick, it did not "go all over the place" because I used a caulk gun. (2) The zip line kit was a gift, it is a common brand, not expensive, all the steel hardware was fine, it lasted for four years then I took it down because we moved.
Well... I built my post. The concrete calculator is saying 12 - 80lb bags needed for the same dimension hole you made. Seems like a lot... how many bags did you use?
Nate Adams That sounds about right. I don’t remember. I do remember that the online calculator for the number of bags was pretty dead-on.
Thanks for sharing good idea to sister two 2x12
Hi Ryan , what was the drop like ? You mentioned 8 feet both sides but what about the natural drop in the yard?
The drop in the yard was about 6 feet over the 90-foot run
@@BILLYSHED I looked at your other post and you mentioned 4 foot , could it have been 4 , I think you mentioned you moved
@@LeeOliveiragetggg I did move, but I am 100% certain that my yard sloped 6-feet over that run. But I can understand your confusion. The 4-foot number you saw in my other video - that was used to illustrate the calculations for the two contributions to the line sag (not yard slope). And you may notice that around the 10:30 mark in the video that the contributions only add up to 37.5 inches so 4-feet was a decent "guess" for illustration purposes. My current advice to all folks is #1 don't overthink it and #2 follow the guidance given at www.ziplinegear.com/pages/how-to-build-a-zip-line-section-one-concepts (which goes hand in hand with advice #1). If that site existed 5 years ago when I was searching how to install my zipline (because I didn't have trees) then it would have saved me a lot of headache. My zipline videos are now essentially outdated but that's alright - that's progress!
@@BILLYSHED hi Ryan, I have some photos of a similar set up. Let me know if you are interested and where I can send them
@@LeeOliveiragetggg I'm out of the zip line game, so not really interested. I appreciate it though!
I purchased a 90 ft zip line for my 8 grandchildren and want to install it with your instructions. I can have the holes dug for me but would like to know exactly how many feet apart were your anchor posts? Were they 90 ft apart-if the cable is 94 feet?
Bonnie, I'm not sure what hardware came with your kit. You're gonna have to measure it and sketch it out. If the instructions that came with your kit said "find two trees that are 90' max apart", then you should be good setting your posts at 90'.
Hey Ryan, good video. I'm considering building one myself. I'm also an engineer so I appreciate the technical talk, but I was looking forward to your next video explaining the loads and forces and I didn't see any. Do you have just the 2 pieces of bent rebar in the holes? 2 in each or 1? I'm planning on building mine using one tree at the end but will start with a post similar to yours. I'd like to see your calculations!
Jimmy D'Amore, okay. I didn’t know this day would come, but since you are the second person in about a week to ask, I’ll gladly share my thoughts and the calculations this evening. Kinda looking forward to it!
Hi Ryan. I may have missed it, but my question is how do the cables stay on the round? Just the tention alone? I'm sorry if I just missed that part. I just want to be sure. I just need 1 post....top end will have an actual tree. Thanks so much. I am humbled by your genius!!!
In my case (and probably most cases) the cable indeed stays on the round part through friction & without any external "help". If you designed a very "saggy" run, then maybe the cable would be inclined to slip. But in that case (a saggy run) you would have plenty of other problems. Have fun, good luck, and I'd love to see what your run looks like so upload a video and share a link when it's up and running!
Looks like it should be a LOT thicker . Seems it would flip up/down when not exact even pressure is added
Ryan, did you treat the sub-soil portion of the anchors before you installed them and encased them in concrete?
Nope.
Thanks for the video, I know it is a little old now, but I had another question. Why two 2x12s? Why not go with three? Would that end up being stronger? Thanks!
Joshua Swift , a third 2x12 obviously won’t hurt, but it’s not necessary. A zip line is a stiffness-dominated application- not a strength dominated. (Understand the difference between stiffness and strength). There are two elements of the zip line system that affect its stiffness performance - how much the anchor points move, and how much the cable stretches. These two factors each cause the rider to sag low in the middle of the ride. It’s the sag that needs to be mitigated / optimized. You don’t want too much but you need a little. I really should finish that second video, sharing the equations and all. The zip line package I bought off amazon came with a 90-foot steel cable, I think 3/16-inch diameter. I calculate that cable stretches significantly more than the two 2x12 end points bend. Adding a third 2x12 won’t significantly reduce the flex. And you don’t need it stronger. Those 2x12s can flex a lot more before they get close to breaking. Dammit now I wanna make that follow- on video. I’ve moved on to other things to play with but I should make that video.
@@BILLYSHED Awesome, thank you for the reply and added information!
Did you mix the concrete in the large holes yourself or did you rent a machine to stir the concrete for you?
I just mixed it myself by hand in a wheelbarrow
Ryan Emerson , nice. Thank you. Another video that used your design mentioned 20 bags per hole and that seems like a lot. Do you recall roughly how many you used for 4 ft x 18 in hole?
David Wood sorry man, I don’t remember. If I said it in the video, then it was probably true. I do remember that I used an online calculator and actual usage was pretty damn close to what the calculator calculated. So if I were you, I would go with that. I also remember that by the end of it I kinda wished I had hired someone to do it… You know concrete is heavy dirty work!
I also would like to know the diameter of your turn buckles- I can cut a section of log in half but wonder should the circumference be? If not, can u give more details on your turn buckles. Thanks for your time!
To be clear: A "turnbuckle" is a very specific piece of hardware (google it). I assume you are instead asking about the circular turnaround pieces of wood that I added where the cables actually turn around the posts. I made them 12 inches diameter.
Great information. is it possible to ask you questions directly or get the details in writing..... doing my best to write everything. Thank you
I might answer a new question or two, if they are worthy.
What zipline kit did you buy for your kids?
Slackers 90-foot kit.
We dont have any trees. LOL!
Will this set up work for adults? Like what is the maximum weight you think this can hold?
I think the zip line kit (cable and trolley) is rated for 250 lbs. I weigh 200 lbs and it holds me just fine.
Climbers rope would've been a bit safer for kids. But looks nice.
What size bag and how many bags per hole? Thanks
I forget (60lbs maybe?) - whatever the standard size bag the home store sells. I do remember that the bags filled the holes pretty much dead-on with what the volume guidelines on the bag says.
How deep would it have to be for a 300 lb adult ?
Its not so much that a heavier person would need deeper anchors. Four feet still is sufficient. But: for a 300-pounder, I would laminate (combine) three 2x12's instead of two at each end for the anchors. Also might need a stronger steel cable, probably 1/4 inch diameter instead of the 3/16 inch that comes with most kits.
I have watched this video and the video over the calculations. I do not understand how you built the half circle at the top of the post. What wood did you use? Is it one solid piece? What hardware did you use to adhere it to the post?
You're not the only person to ask. Don't over think it. Maybe it's time for me to make another video. Pretty sure I'd do a few things differently if I did another zip line. standby...
Clearly one of his kids holding the camera
Just purchased 2 off treated 3x12 for the same
what is the purpose of the half moon rebars?
The rebars reinforce the concrete to counteract the tensile stresses that develop in that pathway around the front of the beams. I am not sure if it was necessary or not, but it only cost a few bucks and I figured what the heck, can't hurt!
Great job.
Im guessing you use the two 2 x 12 because perhaps a six-by-six wood warping twist in the elements?
I'd also like the stats as well
finally! ua-cam.com/video/a1KPl-M-dpM/v-deo.html
4:05 and she went into the flame, you thought this was a good way to have fun, yea right
This design does not work. I use the design and the 2x6s snapped while I was tensioning the zip line.
Big difference between what I did (2 x 12's) and you (2 x 6's). Try again man.
Lol
Good Morning... I would love to pick your brain on a short zip line project I'm working on for my three children. I purchased telephone poles and I was planning to use them as anchor points. I would love to email with you directly if you don't mind. Please let me know and I can send you information/drawings on my concept. I'm a Civil Engineering Designer located in South Florida.
Hey, I just saw your comment, sorry I have been remiss in keeping up with updates, etc. If you still want to pick my brain, yeah, email me.
Don’t want to burst your bubble but there a tree right next to your post🤷♂️
Zac Carroll I don’t wanna smack ya down, but that’s a baby tree. Zip lines need 12” diameter minimum.
I bet those rotted off at the concrete line in less than 3 years
Actually, we moved from that house at the 3-yr mark and I took down the posts before we sold. The posts looked fine. It was pressure treated lumber. It didn’t need it to last forever anyway. Thanks for the encouraging and helpful comment btw
Look up the word obnoxious in the dictionary and you'll see his face.
Sounds like you are jealous because he has happy kids.
I dislike how rude you are to assumable your wife who is filming. Do you always treat her so poorly? I hope she moved on to greener pastures. Also if its your kid and not your wife, the same goes. Very bossy and rude. Take this for growth not as a hateful comment.
Aww. Your comment would have been constructive if you left out the "greener pastures" part. Why don't you take a little time to reflect and grow a little yourself, then try again?
Appreciate the video but the presentation kinda suck. We don't see the other end. Braking system. Suggestions on type of cable and other things. You're just focused on one thing, though important, the support and calculations. Once I saw a dude with a drink in his hand and just half the zip line I immediately knew this will be a just a video slapped together just for the hell of it.
Dude, 5 years ago when I made this video, there were dozens (probably hundreds?) of videos that other people had posted that showed details on their zipline kit, braking system and cables, etc. Why would I make another video on that? It's common knowledge and to repeat it would be a waste of peoples' time. Instead - my intention for this video was to share the ONE piece of the puzzle that WASN'T common knowledge: What the hell to do if your yard doesn't have 12"-diameter trees. So I gave my knowledge and findings to the world. And the response (comments and likes) shows that most people "got it" and appreciated the video. Good luck to you, man.
Do you recommend using 4 x 12 x 16 without anchors, 4ft deep.
merk awad - You can use the equations that I provided to answer your question. Definitely you will experience more deflection. It might work- depends on the shape of the ground under your run