Mercedes-Benz ML Door Lock Actuator Replacement (W163)
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Today we fix another issue with our ML320, the passenger rear door lock actuator. We were planning on repairing it, but ended up needing to replace the full assembly for around $200 due to more broken plastic parts than anticipated.
Special thanks to Mercedes-Benz of Gilbert for helping out with parts as usual. Thanks for watching as always!
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Parts Used
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- Actuator Assembly: amzn.to/2xYKvR1 or your local dealer
- New Door Clips: Local dealer
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Special Tools Used
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- None!
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Social Media and Contact
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For business inquiries: redonkilaus@gmail.com
redonkilaus
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Notices
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Outro Music:
Avenza - Royal - • Video
Soundcloud - / avenza
Download - fanlink.to/Royal
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Legal disclaimer: Our videos are for educational purposes only. We will not be held liable for any loss or damage incurred as a result of any content communicated on this UA-cam page.
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I do not care about end results, I want to see process to remove and install actuator. Video is useless.
Right?!!
I flew to the moon and back. Here is a picture of me after i landed. See. that was easy. A step by step guide.
You left out a lot of steps in the removal process…..
More detail would have been good...
How many actuator did you replace so the locks can work?
Not to mention providing what year in the description or title
Nice video but it cuts away at all the places where you really need to insert "Then a miracle occurs". I have a very slight build but I can't get my hand back inside to reach the door lock actuator or the bracket on the back of the door handle. I'm extremely reluctant to loosen a single screw for fear that the pieces will simply drop out with no way to get them back in place, let alone thread the replacement actuator in there.
Can you give me any guidance on how to reach these parts? Is this a one person job or do I need a 2nd person to work and hold things on the outside while I struggle with the parts on the inside?
It's been too long since doing this job to remember exactly how difficult everything was to get to, but I don't recall it being too bad. I don't have a particularly large build, with wrists roughly 7 inches in circumference for reference, but I am tall and have rather long arms and was able to reach up into the door (IIRC, through the speaker hole) to manipulate the parts. I did have somebody helping me, but I can't remember exactly what I needed help with specifically - to be safe, it would be nice to make it a 2 person job. Pulling the outside door handle is no big deal, and you won't lose any screws doing that portion of the job since the set screw that holds the handle stays in place, and once you have that off you may have a better view of everything going on.
Hope that helps in some fashion - thanks for watching!
@@redonKiLaus I finally decided to tackle this job. It took me a bit over an hour once I had the door panel removed. I can offer a few tips to anyone wishing to try it.
1) Make sure you remove enough of the padding to allow you to get low into the door panel opening so your arm can get a straight shot up into the latch area.
2) You MUST remove the inner bracket piece behind the outside door handle as stated in the video. Fortunately it's not hard to re-install once the lock is back in place. I found it best to remove the screws completely.
3) The 2 Torx T27 screws are the only things holding the lock assembly in the door. Remove them and the assembly will drop free but jam up inside the door unless you've remove the inner door handle bracket first.
4) The electrical connector has a latch that is a challenge to unclip. You can't reach the clip until you have the latch detached and slid down as far as the rear window track. The connector also has a rubber weather seal inside the plug so it needs some persuasion to get it out. I used a small screwdriver wedged into the clip to release it, and then channel locks to grab the connector and pull it free.
5) The rear window track is in just the wrong place so it can make it a challenge to get your arm in there, plus forget trying to twist your arm once it's in there. The track also interferes with the lock assembly when pulling it out from inside the door and getting it back in. Use a little pressure and care and you can get it past the window track but make sure you have it aligned properly and flush against the door interior panel or it will just jam up.
6) Fish a wire behind the air bag through the opening where the door release and lock cables go. Tie and tape it to the cables on the new lock, and then start pulling gently as you start to slide the new lock assembly up into the door.
7) Continue pulling and sliding, making sure to keep the assembly in the proper alignment, and then don't pull the cables too tight or it will prevent you from aligning the lock correctly.
8) Once the lock all the way in there it is trivial to line it up and tighten it down.
9) Now slide the door panel inner bracket piece between the outer door panel and the new lock (this was much easier than I thought it would be) and re-insert the screws, tighten it down.
10) Reach back up inside one more time and attach the electrical connector ... it goes in much easier than it came out.
Now it's just reassembly of the outside door handle and inside door panel.
It's so nice to have the doors lock & unlock normally once again.
@@lovemy912 Very good advice for anyone attempting this job - I'm glad you got through it!
@@lovemy912 hey how many actuators do i need to buy so all my locks can work automatically? My keys don't lock all of my doors.
@@Menga213 Each door has its own actuator. And each one is different ... front, back, left, right. They are a SUPER pain to replace. I would not recommend trying this on your own unless you are very skilled and have very small hands.
This is a bad video, lots of steps missing.
Do you know any good video? Can you share。?
WTF!?…. This video doesn’t show how to do anything. You did the whole repair and didn’t show how to do anything, just talked about how everything was done. 🤦🏾♂️
where did you find those replacement springs?
Great video
Thanks for watching!
You keep all vital info to yourself ... my uncle says you a butcher!!!😼
Thanks for watching!
Sincere thanks for saving me from wasting 11+ minutes of my time. I've learned to read the comments before watching shitty videos.
Nothing was really shown. Much discussion and talking about doing the job but nothing to help anyone. Good thing I'm an engineer and can figure thing s out.
you can remove the airbag. it wont go off.
Air bag system, battery unhook? Ooooops…. Forgot that when I replaced all 4 doors.
I can beat this, door shut, childlock on, wont unlock from inside or outside, removed door card with seats in place (tricky)..here in UK cars older than 3 years require a roadworthy test every year...called an MOT. Ministry of Transport annual inspection.
Nice video. I'm trying this myself today. At 6:24 mark in your video, does that inside bracket have to clip on to the actuator? I'm having a tough time getting it back in. I should remove that bracket. Is this correct? I'm assuming you put it in & then you put that bracket in. I tried that initially but very tough. Please advise if you can. Thanks
I believe the way you are describing it in installing in two stages is what I did - it's been so long since I did this job I can't remember for sure. Sorry I can't confirm that for you. Thanks for watching!
@@redonKiLaus hello my friend, I tried this morning & I got it in. What a pain. It would be nice if MB made access panels to these types of repairs. Unfortunately, I'm still getting the machine gun lock but on the left rear now 😒. Is there a way to determine/isolate this problem rather than changing parts. I don't even know if the one I got from the junkyard is good(the one I replaced this morning). It looks fine, and no missing or broken peices.
A canbus-compatible scan tool can help you determine which modules are reporting errors, but that will not always narrow down the culprit, especially if a given module doesn't realize it is malfunctioning. In my case, not only did my lock not work at all, but it also reported an error.
Personally, for wear items like actuators, I wouldn't recommend pulling used parts since you never know how much wear they have on them. New parts, and preferably OEM, are the way to go for me.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for your advice. I might have to get an OEM one but I'll try the scanning. Regards, Omar (Mississauga,Ontario)
@@nsxt290 hey did you replace all 4 actuator so the automatic lock can work?
So do i have to replace all 4 door actuator so the automatic lock can work?
No, only the broken ones - if all 4 are broken then you do need to replace them all, but if they all stopped suddenly at the same time, you may have a control system issue. Thanks for watching!
@@redonKiLaus Do you think I can install universal actuator? Also what fuse do you remove to deactivate them
@@Menga213 I don't think that'll be feasible, there's CANBUS comms that run thru the actuators as well. Not sure on the fuse, varies per model and there may not be one for the MLs since they do have the CAN system run the actuators...may be an electronic cutoff as opposed to an actual fuse. I'd consult a service manual or MB specialist for info on that.
Too many useless words and main part how to disassemble is missing. Video is useless.