I followed this procedure and let me tell you, from someone who had the same lock actuator problem, this fix actually works and it works flawlessly, don't listen to anyone, this fix is legit and it really works and it work like factory with zero issues, I'm also glad I saw this video, if saved me hundreds for the part and labor by my mechanic.
@@shebaadc cheers mate .. I appreciate u saying this and no need to convince me ... I'm the one who made the video lol ...but good on it does save hundreds of dollars
This video needs a thousand more likes! I just bought a two pack of door lock actuators for 11 dollars, and I only needed to fix one. Fixed my driver rear door lock exactly like this video. Easy peasy. Thanks for posting this!!!
aww your too kind mate..I really appreciate u saying that..but most of all I'm just glad it could help u out cuz for me that's why I started to do these videos cuz I was sick and tired of getting ripped at any mechanic for the smallest jobs ..
How did you do it? I just tried doing this on the rear door of my 2008 W204. But I can't as the pop-up button is not connected to a rod, but is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a plastic sleeve. I considered stripping the plastic sleeve, but the wire was too thin to fasten into the actuator connection block (and the wire would most likely just bend on actuation).
Holy crap that is an excellent fix for the door lock... who would have thought....indeed saves time and money... thanks for sharing this it will help alot of ppl..especially now you dont have to go through the mess of removing the inner door frame.... thats gold..keep em coming mikey
When i saw all the work you have to do in order to fix the door lock i said to myself no way!!! But after watching your video im prepared to attempt this as u made it look so easy
Have problem with my two back doors on me ml mercedes seems to be a problem with them bought two actuators waitin on delieverly cheers pal saved me alot of money for the two of them €20 with shipping👍
Re drivers door master actuator Hey Mikeyz, your video was incredibly helpful, thank you! Just to confirm drivers door fix is exactually the same (on a MB W169 A class) Dont worry about all the existing wires, just locate the 2 power, in this case black stripe and green stripe. If the close/unlock out of sequence, just reverse the connection. One point to remember is to make sure the drivers door is closed before testing otherwise the 'lock' function wont work. Thanks again Mike
I watched a lot of videos , i can say that this is The Best video , clear and easy, and cheap fix, i will try it on my w211.. greeting from Morocco 🇲🇦.
I just did this to my w204 , works great ! The only thing I did differently was I used self tapping screws , not rivets, but did everything else the same. It works awesome! Thanks !
This is why we do how to videos on UA-cam for sure bro ! I should have filmed mine but you did such a good job I didnt feel the need to , as I couldn't improve on a single thing you did , good job ! And thanks again !
So, I really appreciate this video as (to your point) it saves time and money. It was a tight squeeze, but worked very well. Because it is a 2010 E350, the color schemes were off, but it is GREAT. I used the green w/black stripe wire and the all-green wire. The remaining wires I tied back to the 'older' actuator. Unfortunately, now the indoor lock switch will not work. I've checked and see 3 wires from the door switch on the driver's side. They are grey,grey, and black with white stripe. Any idea how to fix this? Best, Ken.
Hi, thanks for the video guide. Just did the fix on my driver side door. Didn't have pop rivet gun so used some self tap screws. All works great. Might have to do some adjustments as it doesn't pop up as far as it should. Probably need to adjust the clamp onto original rod. Maybe I didn't extend fully before attaching or the aftermarket rod is catching on door panel.
Mate just amazing u have saved me and im sure alot of other ppl money and time...thank you so much for taking the time to share...the info you share is priceless....
I'm looking to do the same for both front doors. You said something about master and slave units? I don't see that distinction made for units sold on AliExpress.
@TheHomnguyen ok so it actually doesn't matter .. wen I bought mine it did make that distinction..hence why I thought it mattered ..but it really doesn't.. just use the slave one for any and it will be fine
Question my w204 2010 c350 4M is left hand drive (canada) the driver size lock not working (left) and what is that about when I look at the Amazon. They have a kit with 4 actuators 3 of them with 2 wires and one have 5 wires. What is that one with 5 wires for ?
Hi Mikey, Thanks again for your video and personal responses you have given me. I feel you should highlight the fact that the master after-market controller will also work as long as we use the correct colour wires as you prescribe. I feel you need to highlight the fact that there is minimal clearance for the new guide rod and that many many hours will be wasted by trying to move or bend the rods, in my case I had to do it so many times that I damaged the connecting bracket screws hence I needed to find a replacement. To help with the clearances I ultimately stuck some weather seal tape onto the door running parallel both sides to the connecting rod. This has allowed the clearances needed and now my after-market door actuator is working fine. Thanks again.
did uptake note of the fact that I shaved my door so the rod could slide up and down easily?? is this what ur referring to? .. that's why i s shaved the door instead of trying to do something else..because u can't see it on the inside and It will not show on the outside nor ruin the door in anyway... I basically shaved like 3 to 5mm off where the rod as rubbing ... and it worked perfectly
but thanks for ur input this will help others .hence why I leave comments section open so ppl can also give their experience in order ro help another I divided who has encountered the same problem
I have always stated that it's possible le to do the Master using same wires.. although in video I stated u may need the master ... it was just a precaution... but everdently will work because all your doing is supplying power to the actuator motor to spin wenever it gets 12v power introduced through the lock and u lock mechanism
For a 2010 E350 W212 driver's side replacement,I was was succesful in installing 2-wire solution to green w/black and solid green. Remote key fob works, but not inside manual door lock switch. My question: In the scenario above (w212 driver front), should I use master actuator, or better yet can I attach both 2-wire new actuator wires to the wires off the inside door switch? Anyone been through this?@@MIKEYZVLOGZ
@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge. Just installed and it works as normal. Indeed you deserve a compliment. 😊. Keep doing the great job.
Amazing 👏 saved me hell lot of money and effort. A little tip. Where you have to grind for easy moment of the shaft. Just install a screw into the body near by so the screw takes all the load but the lock shaft.
Hey man! Love the video, super helpful. I’m trying to do this myself on my 2007 GL 450, but the wire colors are different going to my right rear door actuator. Would you happen to know which ones I should splice?
hey bud so sorry as i haven't worked on your car before its hard for me to say , what u need to do is find your door schematics, and it will tell u which is which wire, however when u open the door u should be able to see what goes to the door actuator and that will def get u one step closer , for me , after i knew which cables they were i still has to confirm, so i followed the wires and triple checked they went to my actuator, in the end there should only be 2 wires that power the actuator becuz all it does is send the power wen u lock and unlock, its actually very straight forward wen u break it down, but i know it can be overwhelming, my best advice is find the schematics, or ask forums and someone can guide u very quickly, im just sorry i dont work on your specific car and all cars have different wiring
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries, thanks for the quick response. The way our doors are set up, they are very similar. Just like yours, I have 5 wires wrapped in fabric that go into a hole towards the actuator. Do you know of anyway I can test which ones give power to the actuator without taking the whole door apart? lol I’m guessing I could maybe just test the voltage on each of those wires, but haven’t tried it yet. All good if you don’t have an answer, just talking out loud here
I have an A170 which won't lock with the key but WILL lock itself when driving, so it's probably not the actuator right? However it can't be the key either because it does lock all other locks except the driver side. Edit: turns out it was just the key batteries, 2x new CR2025 batteries fixed all 4 door locks instantly.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I try to install the actuator, but it just only active when i press unlock. no response when i lock by the key. do i need to unplug the green plug and put it back in? is only of the fuse is broken?
@@raymondfong32 it should work maybe a connection loose cuz should be simple two wires to power device .. so wen u press lock and unlock it sends power to the device to spin ..that way it keeps rotating and locks and unlocks ... that how it works .. so in your case ..u must be missing something
Hi Mikey. Another request for a video on fitting the actuator on the W204 rear door. I have had a go, but can't see how to connect the actuator to the existing door button as there isn't a rod. It is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a blue plastic tube (which runs the length of the door). the wire slides inside the tube (works like a bicycle brake/gear cable). I suspect that if I cut the sleeving, and somehow manage to connect the replacement actuator to the exposed wire, that the wire would just bend on actuation. Cheers John
Hi friend to be honest. I'm not too sure.. if u have a manual I suggest looking through that or use google and search for what u want to know... ud be surprised what u can find on the net. Wish I could be more help but in only really familiar with the w203 and w204 as they are the cars I own... apologies
Thank you for the video!! I have been looking for something like this. I have a ML350 and I'm about to change my passenger door lock, but I don't have the color wires you have. I looked up the schematics and I believe my pink/black and white/black are what I need to cut, but how do i know what to connect the blue to and the green to? what is the difference? I didn't see you explain the difference in your video or i missed it somehow. also, you cut wires to power. do i also need to cut some power wires? or just the two wires only? thanks in advance
as for the blue and green ..u just do a trial and error test run ... im pretty sure polarity doesn't matter .. follow the wires that come right off the actuator ..whichever powers the actuator..you connect to those wires and ur good to go.. the actuator only needs power to spin so when u press lock or unlock it send power to the actuator to spin ..that's it.. but u can always switch em around if it doesn't work
@meltn2me dw it's only 2 cables ur really connecting ..u can't really stuff up... even wen i cut the wrong cable it's color coded so u just reconnect ... and all g..i accidentally cut the rotary tumbler switch cable and it was for the door led..it somehow related to it and luckily i noticed and reconnected it ..now all is well and locks back to normal
I have a 2009 ML 350 that the driver side door actuator is not working correctly. Will this fix work on it? In your video you mentioned that this fix works on the other doors but I’m not sure what you meant as far as what I need to do on the driver side.
hi mate thanks for watching. what I meant is you can use this same fix on any other door rear ... and u don't need a master cylinder for driver door ..just a slave will work..so long as u identify the 2 wires that supply power to your factory actuator..connect the after market to it and it will work the same
So my driver door accuator is gone, im looking for the "Universal Car Central Door Lock Actuator locking Motor Gun - MASTER verison" ? is this correct? thanks!
same pinciple u can use a slave lock actuator doesnt have to be a master ..so long as it gets power wen u lock and unlock it will do the exact same job.. it has been confirmed by other subscribers its the exact same job
Hi I need to use this door actuator but I need the master for my 2003 clk 240 the master has 5 wires. blue.white . Black.brown and green can you please tell me which wires to connect to on the driver's door like which colour connects to which colour of the car door wires thanks.
easiest way is to find tour cars schematics ... I'm sorry to say that I'm now familiar with your model ... I habe only worked on the w204 door lock actuator ..but if u follow the wires see which ones goto the actuator ..same way I did in this video ...... then there is always trial and error ... u can just use a slave actuator ... as it works as well... the main is just rendered to as the master ... but u can use the slave in place ... u can find tour cars or schematics ..or Google it and someone would have done it before so they can tell u which cables power the actuator
Hey, thanks for your video. I have MB w164 and I’m try do the same like you said, but I have another color of wires. And it’s only close the door but not open. I have white, brown, pink with black line and purple with black line. Maybe you have some ideas what I do wrong. Thank you.
Hi mikey. Good news i installed slave actuator drivers door w204..works fantastic! Just cut grey wire with blue stripe.and attached blue wire to it.green to grey with black stripe..thanks again for your great tutorial videos👍👍❤
Hey man, was wondering if you could help: my w205 coupe door is frameless so it retracts whenever the door opens. The issue is that sometimes when the door is opened the window does not retract, sometimes I have to wait from seconds to minutes until it ‘recognises’ it has been opened before I can lock the car. Without it recognising it has been opened, the car’s dashboard doesn’t switch off and I can’t lock it. Was wondering if you could help?
hey bud thanks for stopping by . unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to work on a w205 as yet ... apart from pulling the steering wheel off one ... I haven't done anything else to a 205 .. I'm sorry to say I'm not too sure tbh... I would never pretend to know something I don't.. that's just disingenuous
i havent done them as yet but i am def gonna do it..cuz u guys have been asking alot about them..if u scroll through the comments same principle..there is a sweet spot for them too...just gotta make it work ... ppl have already successfully done using same principle
@MIKEYZVLOGZ they have a different mech for the pop up lock though same wires I'm guessing just have to tie it into the factory pop up the correct way I guess. Thanks heaps for your express fast reply mate 👍
Can I iuse this on mercedes 2009 gl 450. ? I see no room to put actuator? I seen videos of door panel removal and don't see any room.?also do you have the part number for actuator? Thanks so much
u should be able to.. there wasn't enough room to use this actuator ..but I made it work by shaving the doornpanel down ... u can use it as long as u make some room
ok so it doesn't matter ..u can still use the slave for driver side just follow the same cable colours... it will still work..I was simply just trying to state the rest are slave compared to the master where the main unit is..but u can still use the slave gor the driver side and it'll work just fine..the principle is to give power to the actuator wen u press lock and unlock which intern sends ppwer to the lock actuator motor which then spins and locks then unlocks the door ..that's it
no I don't but I will be working on it this year. I've had a guy tell me that it's also possible to fit an actuator in the rear door ..bit must be a precise spot as there isn't much room
Just discovered this problem on my car the same door, right now. Thank you for this ill have to see what ima do to fix i was hoping it just needs a reset but seeing all this video seems ima have to get dirty hahahah
I'm unfamiliar with the air lock system.. do u mean where it uses the air in the hose to lock and unlock the door lock? I can't say I'm fully knowledgeable about that system ...although I do know the older models tend to use it.. like my w203 ... however ... I can't say indefinitely that it would work ... sorry couldn't help more ..u may need to consult an expert
Hi these don’t deliver to uk where I am based would it work with a different universale actuator as I am afraid the wires may be different colours to what you show on the video
ok guys i just wanted to clarify that you only cut the cables you need to use , the GREY WITH A BLUE STRIPE and the GREY WITH A BLACK STRIPE.. DO NOT CUT ANY OTHER CABLES AS IT WILL INTERFERE WITH THE ROTARY TUMBLE SWITCH WHICH CONTROL POWER TO YOUR COURTESY LIGHT FOR THAT DOOR... only cutr the wires you are going to use to send signal to and from your aftermarket actuator..thats it ..hope this is more clear and clarifies things abit more and for the master lock (DRIVER DOOR) its the same just use the same wires and wire them up the same and bob's your uncle.. done deal
thanks Mikey i was going to ask about that as i didn't think cutting the other wires was a good idea. i've just received a pair of actuators this morning both my front doors c200 sport AMG 2007. don't lock. i'll be fitting them asap. Ebay 2 for £9.40 uk.
HI MIKEY. I amm looking for the same actuator for my W204's passenger door, haven't been able to find the same as in your video on Ebay. can you put me in the right direction please? It's an Right Hand drive.
How do I match the 2 wires on the actuator to the correct colors on the door wiring diagram, or my Wife's 2010 Ml350 the colors on the wires don't have gray or black on the hardness?
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ , thanks for the quick responds, unfortunately thats were my confusion is at. The wire bundle has 1 pink. 2 reds, 2 orange , 1 yellow wire. I'll try to send you a picture. I have no clue which color provides power to the actuator.
My passenger rear door won’t open at all but I can move the snib up and down with my hand also there’s no resistance on the door handle compared to the other doors any idea what’s wrong and can I get door card off with door closed thanks
I have 2009 ML350 , the power locks don't work on 3 of the doors , l located the 2 power wires with a test light for the lock and unlock modes - however the aftermarket actuator won't work when wired it in -what am I missing ?- it seems like they get power correctly but the ground isn't working
that's odd it should work ... it only needs power sent ro the lock ... did u test to ensure it is getting 12v with a multimeter? put pps and neg to appropriate wires and then press lock and unlock it should show the voltage going to the wires ... check the door module and follow the wires ensure no breaks ... check fuses too relaying to door ... also follow the wires ensure no shorting is happening ..this happened to my seat for my w203 ..I had to flow the cable all the way to the plug harness and voila there it was ... where the seat folds...it was shorting there ... pos and neg were stripped and touching causing the short ..hence auto seats adjustment weren't working
Ingenious, I just ran into this as I worked through some of my codes and although I have a 2010 W212, i’m going to attempt to see if this is possible. As others have done, I too saw the insane labor involved and honestly, I accepted the fact of having to manually lock and unlock. Huge thanks for the idea and I hope to report back that this is possible on the W212 as well.
Hi Dave ive got the 2010 E350 W212 and have had an issue with my rear drivers side actuator not working. I am really thankful to Mikey for doing the 2 wire Universal Mod and was thinking i should try this aswell! Any luck with doing yours yet??
@@AsimEden I hate to say it but I haven’t had the opportunity to do this yet, I have plans to take care of this in the next 2 days so hopefully I should be able to let you know. I was able to order the actuators from Amazon which came as a pair for $10 and I picked up a box of assorted solder-less heatshrink connectors and assorted heatshrink to complete all for under $30 total. I will say what gave me the biggest issue and something I may be able to ultimately help you with is making sure of the 2 correct wires to connect to. I bought the Emanual online and although it was only $27 and it is basically the exact same program the stealership uses, including work hours and write ups for charges. The problem with this was I expected a PDF workshop manual that turned out to be a very difficult program requiring to download another program to run. It makes it difficult to find what you need unless you’ve been trained to use a factory dealership program. It took a couple of weeks during the days i had to spend on it, to learn how to navigate and find the diagram I needed and then I had to change my Bios to run the system to print out the needed info. So if you are considering a manual don’t use Emanual, I would try a different one, but also if i’m successful then I would be happy to let you know if the rears are the same colors or exactly what they are. I hope to report back in the next few days.
@@davemccready6013 Dave please dont worry dude..... my actuator has been duff for the last 2 years lmao so no worrys you're doing ok! I've had some experience with these manuals and didnt bother in the end, even the Mercedes WIS/ASRA/EPC programs you can get on ebay and the like are really difficult to install. The saving grace here is that Mikey has quite nicely explained very well the wiring code with regards to the door actuator (Grey-Blue and Grey-Black). MB are pretty consistant with their colour coding so should be the same on ours. I noted that you have come across the low melt solder heatshrink, did a job on a VW Sharan fault with regards to the Fuel Temperature Sensor last week. The guy brought it to me after his mechanic had fitted a new sensor but the fault code and money light was still on. I found the fault to be a broken wire in the loom which was telling the ECU that the Voltage was high from the sensor so Engine light was put on. Found the wire break and used this solder heatshrink, worked beautifully! I've also found the Universal actuator on ebay and have ordered today......depending on the weather this weekend i might give it ago. i will let you know what i find behind the panel.
@@AsimEden I’m in the same boat going on 2 years of locking the drivers door manually from the rear. So Mikey was a god sent idea. Glad to hear about the connectors since this is my first go at using them, not a fan of crimped. As far as the wiring goes the colors are different on my front drivers door according to the diagram, but should know for sure tomorrow. I’ll update what the colors are and post an FYI.
have you looked at the wiring diagram on the extra wire that were cut??? seems like a feature was removed...... the brown with pink and brown with green is for "rotary tumbler switch.........
i read on the mb forums that the rotary tumbler switch doesnt interfere with the lock actuator itself and they are controlled from thd door moddules hence u dont lose a function... i guess u could connect the wires back if u want ... but i havent lost a function at all since doing so.... ive tried ro find info on the rotary tumbler switch itself but i could only find this page ..have a read.... mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/609788-request-power-door-lock-wiring-diagram.html
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ im trying to research it too. Did u know mercedes tell u when the motor is dead in case in case u were not aware? i guess more money for "diagnostic". if mercedes put it there, there is a reason...... i dont see any justification to just cut the wire. did u test with it connected? it might be a sensor to see if someone picked the lock of manuall moved the door lock maybe? just a very possible guess......
@@leonlee9301 yes true but it hasnt affected anything else thus far... everything works as it should...these motors are another common failure on these cars... its not trivial for them to fail..infact they are mkre likely to fail then not... its stupid but its just the case
@@leonlee9301 so in the end according to the forum i linked for you its the ground for the lock... it doesnt actually control anything ...in my car that is... all u needis the two wires i connected and it will work.... as u saw.. but like i said if you are worried bout losing a function then u can try to connect it and see what changes or activates..in my case it didnt make a difference and i was only concerned about getting the lock actuator to work again..rather then paying for another lock module 2nd hand for a few hundred or so... it was a better option to do this ... im not sure if my motor is dead ...this isnt the same as the bouncy lock issue like u see on the w203s... i had that issue and i had to remove the whole door panel and lock actuator from the door frame and it was a massive job..took me ages to get it out .... just to fix a $5 dollar little clip.... then the lock worked again ...if my lock was bouncing i may have gone another route.. but i figured why not do this as a long term temporary fix lol .... as it will still work and u can always re solder the wires anyway if you want .... i always say im against cuttitng factory wires unless u have to.. in this case i did it becuz it made sense to me as well ..thanks for your inout though much appreciated by me and others im sure of it
@@leonlee9301 hey leon so i finally discovered last night that the rotary tumbler switch helps to send signal to the door light, the courtesy light that comes on when you open the door... so i reconnected the other two wires and bam!! the light came back on ..
no as I haven't needed to do it.. however I've been told that it is possible and it's the same procedure ... just ensure u check and measure a spot that will house the actuator before going any further
Season greetings pal. I have have been looking forever for a video like this one as I have the very same issue (left passenger door) with my c200 1.8l cgi for over two years.There is a similar video on the MB forum but it was not as detailed as this one.Actually, because of that video I bought four actuators but when came to the installation I chickened out because of the unclear directions. Yours have given me hope to finally repair this problem. Is it necessary to cut those two wires? In the MB forum video the guy simply connected as you did and it worked.Many thanks for your presence on this forum.All the best for 2021.
yes only cut the two wires u are using .. do not cut any other wires as u will lose a function ... just cut the two wires i connected to and u will be ok and everything will work 100%.. merry Xmas and happy new year to u too
My 2015 ML350 w166 appears to be locked, but rear passenger door can be opened from outside with alarm set. Door opens and alarm sounds. Manual lock goes up and down, but door opens when lock indicator is down. Same fix??? Thank you
Mikey, you are undoubtedly a genius and I bought the actuators so thanks, but my wires don’t have any grey/black or gray/blue. And I don’t think I can trace back to actuator without removing the metal plate. Any suggestions?
there must be a way to trace the wires out from the actuator .. in ur case I would try get the schematics and see exactly which wires are for the actuator that way u don't have to trace or guess
Hey thank you for your super quick response man. I’m gonna pimp you everywhere. But I did see that I have eight wires going into my actuator. Six of them go into a pin clip and the other two I can’t figure out where they go. I can’t help it I think the other two are going to be my power. Thoughts?
@@terrymurtha2451 that's my best guess ... schematics would definitely help... apart from that I would onl suggest tracing the wire ... another good place to ask is the forums ..maybe someone else has had the same issue and there's an answer already ...
definitely abit different but I haven't had any issues as yet so haven't done it ..but I def will consider it as alot of u guys have been asking for it so def will do it ...
? sorry hud not sure what ur asking? do u mean which cables ? colour codes? cuz its all there in the video ... and there's only 2 wires you need to connect to power the actuator so that wen u press lock or unlock it powers it and spins it to lock and unlock ... very straight forward ..are u asking about something else ? how u find then..u open the entire door frame and expose all the wires that are in the door ..then u follow which wires goto your factory lock actuator ..once u have determines which cables are for the actuator u connect them to your universal actuator ..it just needs pos and neg for power that's it ..no other cables needed
Hey Mikey, I have too questions for you: I was really impressed and rushed to buy the actuator, but none of the links exist anymore. Is it not for sale these days ? If it is still for sale, then can I use it on my driver side rear door? Really hoping for positive answers because I really don't feel like all that work to fix my door the old fashioned way, Thanks
@edwardtaaffe1 hey bud u can find these anywhere . sorry I haven't updated the links I will be sure to do them again ..although it's hard to keep up as they sell out..only when ppl tell me then I know...so I will update the links..u can buy these at most automotive stores ..ebay and Amazon have them too... yes u can use it on your driver side rear door..it has been done already but ppl in the comment t section
So my mercedes that I just bought it has a bouncing lock. Tonight when I tried to fix I saw videos of everything they were pulling off and out. Which is alot. I love your video I am gonna try this. But I noticed in the beginning of your video you said I didn't need to put this on all doors. Now the bouncy lock is on my right front but noticed tonight that all the other locks don't budge at all so now were would I put the universal actuator r should I get 4 of them and put on all 4 doors
hi Lindsey so all u need to do is follow the video regardless of which door your trying to fix and it will be ok .. the bouncing lock is from a pin breaking or actuator malfunctioned... in any case u can do this to fix it ... much better and cheaper then replacing the actuator with an oem or genuine part.. also alot less trouble as well... the wires will be colour coded the same so as long as u do exactly what I did u will be ok.. gluck hope u get it sorted
wen u say the other doors or locks don't budge do u mean they all don't work ? or only the front right doesn't work? whichever doesn't work fix it using this method and u will be able to fix it .. u can also do this for the rear doors ..same cables same colours ...
@@lindseysanchez8035 that's doesn't sound good... have u checked its not just fuses ? google your cars fuse diagram and check fuses relating to the door lock pins... I all else fails then I would try taking the door off and seeing if there's any loose connections
yes it will it's just to change the motor that spins the lock the alarm is connected via cars ignition system and ecu and that's what tells alarm to activate and deactivate when u lock unlock
Hello Mikey thanks for the tips mate you helped me also with my ESL 👌 My rear passenger door UK model won’t open even though both outside and inside handles feel really solid so nothing feels out of place or broken. Do you have any tips for that ? Is the replacement door lock actuator going to fix this issue? Thanks a lot
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ it doesn’t unlock (key fob) When I do pull the handle from the interior the lock pin pops up but the door won’t open. Obviously I am careful doing that as I have seen lots of them braking.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ is this wire accessible easily or do I have to remove the window and get to the mechanism ? Also are those £15 universal locks suitable for the rear doors ? Obviously sorting out the wire is one thing but while I am doing that I probably would have to change the actuator it didn’t sound that lively..voltage is good and battery in almost brand new
Hi. Great video. Did I understand correctly that it cannot be fitted to the driver's door? Is it possible to only splice it to the wires to the motor leaving all the others? ps this motor looks suspiciously like that on the steering lock. How many cheap Chinese motors are there on this "premium " brand?
lol...I know right...for such a beautiful name brand car ..why did they cheap out on certain parts? that's the question isn't it... and as for drivers door... usually u would use a master actuator lock...but I guess in theory all u need to do is provide power to the lock actuator so it can lock and unlock the car lock... so with that said ...it just may be possible to use the exact same for driver side ... cuz all ur really doing is connecting a power circuit so that wenever a lock button is pressed it will power the actuator so it can spin locking and unlocking the lock 🔐
it's the exact same procedure and there is a spot that will fit the actuator too ... so yes it can. e done easily just ensure you mark measure twice and drill once ... and test fit always first if ur unsure .. wiring is same ...
Hi Mikey, will this work for all models. I have a 2007 ml280cdi. I was quoted $1000 for one actuator and door lock combined. Both my driver door and front passenger side have gone. Can you please confirm which ones in need to buy to make sure I understand. As a single mum I have no idea and it seems hard but I’m willing to give it go as I can’t afford to fix it otherwise. I’m currently climbing from the back seat to open it. Stupid the key doesn’t open it either. Thank you
hi ... firstly i cant say definately if it will work on ur model as i habe never done it on other models.. but from how the actuator works ... it should be thr same procedure and should work..as all u are doing is sendinh power to the after market motor in order to allow the door to unlock and lock again... theoretically it should work..its just a matter of finding the righy spot to mount it.... if i were in your shoes i would give it a go... as the part is very cheap and its better then spending $1000 .... remove your door frame have a look at the wires you have and see if they match ... getting schematics would help alot as it will show you exactly what wires go where and what they do and what colour they are... but from experience merc like to use the same colour codes for wires ... but really only one way to find out and that is to remove the door and have a look... i hope this helps you out somewhat...
I followed this procedure and let me tell you, from someone who had the same lock actuator problem, this fix actually works and it works flawlessly, don't listen to anyone, this fix is legit and it really works and it work like factory with zero issues, I'm also glad I saw this video, if saved me hundreds for the part and labor by my mechanic.
@@shebaadc cheers mate .. I appreciate u saying this and no need to convince me ... I'm the one who made the video lol ...but good on it does save hundreds of dollars
This video needs a thousand more likes! I just bought a two pack of door lock actuators for 11 dollars, and I only needed to fix one. Fixed my driver rear door lock exactly like this video. Easy peasy. Thanks for posting this!!!
aww your too kind mate..I really appreciate u saying that..but most of all I'm just glad it could help u out cuz for me that's why I started to do these videos cuz I was sick and tired of getting ripped at any mechanic for the smallest jobs ..
which colored wires did you cut because the rear doors have different colored wires for my w204
hey bud cannu pls share the wires u used for a fellow subscriber pls ..as he just needs some help locating the wires needed
How did you do it? I just tried doing this on the rear door of my 2008 W204. But I can't as the pop-up button is not connected to a rod, but is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a plastic sleeve. I considered stripping the plastic sleeve, but the wire was too thin to fasten into the actuator connection block (and the wire would most likely just bend on actuation).
Holy crap that is an excellent fix for the door lock... who would have thought....indeed saves time and money... thanks for sharing this it will help alot of ppl..especially now you dont have to go through the mess of removing the inner door frame.... thats gold..keep em coming mikey
Great detailed instructions - installed one myself following your instructions and now I have power locks again.
When i saw all the work you have to do in order to fix the door lock i said to myself no way!!! But after watching your video im prepared to attempt this as u made it look so easy
Before watching u i was so afraid..now i try it all and have managed to save a ton of $$$
Have problem with my two back doors on me ml mercedes seems to be a problem with them bought two actuators waitin on delieverly cheers pal saved me alot of money for the two of them €20 with shipping👍
Re drivers door master actuator Hey Mikeyz, your video was incredibly helpful, thank you! Just to confirm drivers door fix is exactually the same (on a MB W169 A class) Dont worry about all the existing wires, just locate the 2 power, in this case black stripe and green stripe. If the close/unlock out of sequence, just reverse the connection. One point to remember is to make sure the drivers door is closed before testing otherwise the 'lock' function wont work. Thanks again Mike
Yep it's what I knew all along
I watched a lot of videos , i can say that this is The Best video , clear and easy, and cheap fix, i will try it on my w211..
greeting from Morocco 🇲🇦.
thanks
Did you end up doing it on your w211 I have the same car and was wondering if there is space for that!
I did this to my w204, the universal actuator lasted about 1.5 years, luckily I bought a 2 pack and the replacement took me 15 mins total!
yeah desnt last forever
I just did this to my w204 , works great ! The only thing I did differently was I used self tapping screws , not rivets, but did everything else the same. It works awesome! Thanks !
well done mate glad it worked
This is why we do how to videos on UA-cam for sure bro ! I should have filmed mine but you did such a good job I didnt feel the need to , as I couldn't improve on a single thing you did , good job ! And thanks again !
So, I really appreciate this video as (to your point) it saves time and money. It was a tight squeeze, but worked very well. Because it is a 2010 E350, the color schemes were off, but it is GREAT. I used the green w/black stripe wire and the all-green wire. The remaining wires I tied back to the 'older' actuator. Unfortunately, now the indoor lock switch will not work. I've checked and see 3 wires from the door switch on the driver's side. They are grey,grey, and black with white stripe. Any idea how to fix this? Best, Ken.
Hi, thanks for the video guide. Just did the fix on my driver side door. Didn't have pop rivet gun so used some self tap screws. All works great. Might have to do some adjustments as it doesn't pop up as far as it should. Probably need to adjust the clamp onto original rod. Maybe I didn't extend fully before attaching or the aftermarket rod is catching on door panel.
did u shave the door abit cuz the rod rubs on the door panel that's why I shaved it
Mate just amazing u have saved me and im sure alot of other ppl money and time...thank you so much for taking the time to share...the info you share is priceless....
Thanks. This work good on my Norwegian 2007 W204 both sides front. You save me alot of money.
ur welcome
I'm looking to do the same for both front doors. You said something about master and slave units? I don't see that distinction made for units sold on AliExpress.
@TheHomnguyen ok so it actually doesn't matter .. wen I bought mine it did make that distinction..hence why I thought it mattered ..but it really doesn't.. just use the slave one for any and it will be fine
I like it mikey looks nice i dont know what other ppl like but i think looks really nice
Now thats a genius idea saves time and money just excellent as always
Hi @mikey how about driver side actuator? Any ideas if this part works?
u can use the same part
Thank you friend, it is the best I have seen, I have broken looking and had not found and it has been very helpful, thank you, thank you, thank you
so welcome
Question my w204 2010 c350 4M is left hand drive (canada) the driver size lock not working (left) and what is that about when I look at the Amazon. They have a kit with 4 actuators 3 of them with 2 wires and one have 5 wires. What is that one with 5 wires for ?
Hi Mikey, Brilliant Videos and thanks for saving us all a lot of time and money with this mod. Looking forward to checking out your other videos!
Hi Mikey, Thanks again for your video and personal responses you have given me. I feel you should highlight the fact that the master after-market controller will also work as long as we use the correct colour wires as you prescribe. I feel you need to highlight the fact that there is minimal clearance for the new guide rod and that many many hours will be wasted by trying to move or bend the rods, in my case I had to do it so many times that I damaged the connecting bracket screws hence I needed to find a replacement. To help with the clearances I ultimately stuck some weather seal tape onto the door running parallel both sides to the connecting rod. This has allowed the clearances needed and now my after-market door actuator is working fine. Thanks again.
did uptake note of the fact that I shaved my door so the rod could slide up and down easily?? is this what ur referring to? .. that's why i s
shaved the door instead of trying to do something else..because u can't see it on the inside and It will not show on the outside nor ruin the door in anyway... I basically shaved like 3 to 5mm off where the rod as rubbing ... and it worked perfectly
but thanks for ur input this will help others .hence why I leave comments section open so ppl can also give their experience in order ro help another I divided who has encountered the same problem
I have always stated that it's possible le to do the Master using same wires.. although in video I stated u may need the master ... it was just a precaution... but everdently will work because all your doing is supplying power to the actuator motor to spin wenever it gets 12v power introduced through the lock and u lock mechanism
For a 2010 E350 W212 driver's side replacement,I was was succesful in installing 2-wire solution to green w/black and solid green. Remote key fob works, but not inside manual door lock switch. My question: In the scenario above (w212 driver front), should I use master actuator, or better yet can I attach both 2-wire new actuator wires to the wires off the inside door switch? Anyone been through this?@@MIKEYZVLOGZ
Thanks!
thanks bud ur too nice .. I appreciate u...
I'll actually see if I can try find the schematics for u
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thanks man! All good if you can’t find it, but that would be a big help
thanks for the donation bud u rock
Hi Mickey. Thanks for this you save me a lot of money. Great idea. Keep up the good work.
@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge. Just installed and it works as normal. Indeed you deserve a compliment. 😊. Keep doing the great job.
cheers friend I appreciate u mate
Thank you, finally found time to do this today. 15 quid and a hours work, it's sorted 👍
What part was it?
I can't recall this was ages ago but I just bought "universal actuator" off amazon
@@danielbarnatt9332thanks mate. Wife’s c class drivers doors giving her this issue I’m going to try and attack it on the weekend !
thank you! very useful
with your tips it was a lot easier. Had it solved in just about 40 minutes
magnificent
Thank you man! You are the best!
most welcome buddy
Amazing 👏 saved me hell lot of money and effort. A little tip. Where you have to grind for easy moment of the shaft. Just install a screw into the body near by so the screw takes all the load but the lock shaft.
good tip I'm glad it helped u out .. this is something everyone should learn because it really does save so much time and $$
Hey man! Love the video, super helpful. I’m trying to do this myself on my 2007 GL 450, but the wire colors are different going to my right rear door actuator. Would you happen to know which ones I should splice?
hey bud so sorry as i haven't worked on your car before its hard for me to say
, what u need to do is find your door schematics, and it will tell u which is which wire, however when u open the door u should be able to see what goes to the door actuator and that will def get u one step closer , for me , after i knew which cables they were i still has to confirm, so i followed the wires and triple checked they went to my actuator, in the end there should only be 2 wires that power the actuator becuz all it does is send the power wen u lock and unlock, its actually very straight forward wen u break it down, but i know it can be overwhelming, my best advice is find the schematics, or ask forums and someone can guide u very quickly, im just sorry i dont work on your specific car and all cars have different wiring
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries, thanks for the quick response. The way our doors are set up, they are very similar. Just like yours, I have 5 wires wrapped in fabric that go into a hole towards the actuator. Do you know of anyway I can test which ones give power to the actuator without taking the whole door apart? lol I’m guessing I could maybe just test the voltage on each of those wires, but haven’t tried it yet. All good if you don’t have an answer, just talking out loud here
Got delieverly today fitted two of them in a hour brilliant 👍
well done
Beautiful video, this will save people thousands of dollars at the dealership
I hope so
Hi Mikey I’m wondering if you would know the two coloured wires to use on a 2009 E250 as they are different to your video
I don't vest way would be get wiring schematics
Excellent workaround thanks for showing
Could you please do a back door actulator as it looks a lot more difficult Thanks great videos
I don't have the problem as yet buy I will try and see if I can do a guide for u
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thanks would really appreciate it
Just done my passenger door. Thanks for the tips Mikey. Works as good as new! Cheers dude!
very happy to hear it mate..good job
Do you remember the wire colors?
@@djnegro_ct7783 meine
I have an A170 which won't lock with the key but WILL lock itself when driving, so it's probably not the actuator right? However it can't be the key either because it does lock all other locks except the driver side. Edit: turns out it was just the key batteries, 2x new CR2025 batteries fixed all 4 door locks instantly.
Great information and I just have the same case for my front left and right doors. I am going to order it from China coz I am in Hong Kong. Thank you.
good on. ya
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I try to install the actuator, but it just only active when i press unlock. no response when i lock by the key. do i need to unplug the green plug and put it back in? is only of the fuse is broken?
@@raymondfong32 it should work maybe a connection loose cuz should be simple two wires to power device .. so wen u press lock and unlock it sends power to the device to spin ..that way it keeps rotating and locks and unlocks ... that how it works .. so in your case ..u must be missing something
Hi Mikey. Another request for a video on fitting the actuator on the W204 rear door. I have had a go, but can't see how to connect the actuator to the existing door button as there isn't a rod. It is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a blue plastic tube (which runs the length of the door). the wire slides inside the tube (works like a bicycle brake/gear cable). I suspect that if I cut the sleeving, and somehow manage to connect the replacement actuator to the exposed wire, that the wire would just bend on actuation. Cheers John
ok imma look into it
Have you made a video on that please ?@MIKEYZVLOGZ
Can you help me out? Where is the fuse for the driver side back door hatch open button on a GL450 Mercedes? Thank you so much🙏🏽
Hi friend to be honest. I'm not too sure.. if u have a manual I suggest looking through that or use google and search for what u want to know... ud be surprised what u can find on the net. Wish I could be more help but in only really familiar with the w203 and w204 as they are the cars I own... apologies
Thank you for the video!! I have been looking for something like this. I have a ML350 and I'm about to change my passenger door lock, but I don't have the color wires you have. I looked up the schematics and I believe my pink/black and white/black are what I need to cut, but how do i know what to connect the blue to and the green to? what is the difference? I didn't see you explain the difference in your video or i missed it somehow. also, you cut wires to power. do i also need to cut some power wires? or just the two wires only? thanks in advance
as for the blue and green ..u just do a trial and error test run ... im pretty sure polarity doesn't matter .. follow the wires that come right off the actuator ..whichever powers the actuator..you connect to those wires and ur good to go.. the actuator only needs power to spin so when u press lock or unlock it send power to the actuator to spin ..that's it.. but u can always switch em around if it doesn't work
Great thank you 😊 here goes nothing lol
@meltn2me dw it's only 2 cables ur really connecting ..u can't really stuff up... even wen i cut the wrong cable it's color coded so u just reconnect ... and all g..i accidentally cut the rotary tumbler switch cable and it was for the door led..it somehow related to it and luckily i noticed and reconnected it ..now all is well and locks back to normal
I have a 2009 ML 350 that the driver side door actuator is not working correctly. Will this fix work on it? In your video you mentioned that this fix works on the other doors but I’m not sure what you meant as far as what I need to do on the driver side.
hi mate thanks for watching. what I meant is you can use this same fix on any other door rear ... and u don't need a master cylinder for driver door ..just a slave will work..so long as u identify the 2 wires that supply power to your factory actuator..connect the after market to it and it will work the same
Hello everyone! Just wanna ask if anybody tried this on their rears? Thank you everyone and thanks Mike for a very helpful videos! Bless y'all!
About to give this a try. Having the same problem with my driver lock on my Mercedes as well.
u;; be ok, good on y a
How did you go with driver door
So my driver door accuator is gone, im looking for the "Universal Car Central Door Lock Actuator locking Motor Gun - MASTER verison" ? is this correct? thanks!
same pinciple u can use a slave lock actuator doesnt have to be a master ..so long as it gets power wen u lock and unlock it will do the exact same job.. it has been confirmed by other subscribers its the exact same job
Hi I need to use this door actuator but I need the master for my 2003 clk 240 the master has 5 wires. blue.white . Black.brown and green can you please tell me which wires to connect to on the driver's door like which colour connects to which colour of the car door wires thanks.
easiest way is to find tour cars schematics ... I'm sorry to say that I'm now familiar with your model ... I habe only worked on the w204 door lock actuator ..but if u follow the wires see which ones goto the actuator ..same way I did in this video ...... then there is always trial and error ... u can just use a slave actuator ... as it works as well... the main is just rendered to as the master ... but u can use the slave in place ... u can find tour cars or schematics ..or Google it and someone would have done it before so they can tell u which cables power the actuator
Thanks heaps. Saved me a lot of headache
awesome news .. good on ya
Hi Mike, how about if its the driver door on a left hand drive W204, will this fix work? Thanks!!
yeo sure will if u read the comments ppl have used same procedure for left and right door, doesn't matter if its master cylinder
GREAT INFORMATION.. THANK YOU FROM MALAYSIA
ur most welcome buddy
Will this work on the rear door of a 2008 s550 mercedes
dhonestly i cant say for sure as i have never seen it before in that car or worked on it, sorry i couldnt be more help
mike which one do you use for driverside door
@@sbmaynard u can use the same ..dontnworry use slave it's fine
Hey, thanks for your video. I have MB w164 and I’m try do the same like you said, but I have another color of wires. And it’s only close the door but not open. I have white, brown, pink with black line and purple with black line. Maybe you have some ideas what I do wrong. Thank you.
hmm, yeah diff car will have diff colours, u need the schematics to be sure friend sorry i am not familiar with your model...
The ones you need are white and purple with black. It is an easy fit for the actuator, it works for me -x164
I was thinking of this method for my ml w163 , then I found your video!!
cool man hope it helps u
cool man hope it helps u
Mikeyz could you please do a back door universal actulator please as it looks a lot more complicated
Thanks
I'll try do 1 asap
Thanks Look forward to it as it is a lot more difficult to do
well, Thank You I got a ML350 2009 right passenger side. can I find the wires with a probe light?
ebay mate just type I'm lock a tuator on ebay and it will show
Hi great tutorial and help.. my drivers door wont work..could i use the slave actuator instead of master one? Any advice. .thank you
yes i believe you can all you need to do is connect the right wires to make it work...
Hi mikey. Good news i installed slave actuator drivers door w204..works fantastic! Just cut grey wire with blue stripe.and attached blue wire to it.green to grey with black stripe..thanks again for your great tutorial videos👍👍❤
Great stuff mate like always 🔥🔥
Hi Boet nice video can’t you maybe a video to do the back doors because it doesn’t have the same set up as the front door . Please and thanks again
Great idea
Hey man, was wondering if you could help: my w205 coupe door is frameless so it retracts whenever the door opens. The issue is that sometimes when the door is opened the window does not retract, sometimes I have to wait from seconds to minutes until it ‘recognises’ it has been opened before I can lock the car. Without it recognising it has been opened, the car’s dashboard doesn’t switch off and I can’t lock it. Was wondering if you could help?
hey bud thanks for stopping by
. unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to work on a w205 as yet ... apart from pulling the steering wheel off one ... I haven't done anything else to a 205 .. I'm sorry to say I'm not too sure tbh... I would never pretend to know something I don't.. that's just disingenuous
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries brother 🙏🏻
hopefully in the future I cn work on these cars
Jow about rear doors mikey? They are slightly different to this. Any reccomendations?
i havent done them as yet but i am def gonna do it..cuz u guys have been asking alot about them..if u scroll through the comments same principle..there is a sweet spot for them too...just gotta make it work ... ppl have already successfully done using same principle
@MIKEYZVLOGZ they have a different mech for the pop up lock though same wires I'm guessing just have to tie it into the factory pop up the correct way I guess. Thanks heaps for your express fast reply mate 👍
Can I iuse this on mercedes 2009 gl 450. ? I see no room to put actuator? I seen videos of door panel removal and don't see any room.?also do you have the part number for actuator? Thanks so much
u should be able to.. there wasn't enough room to use this actuator ..but I made it work by shaving the doornpanel down ... u can use it as long as u make some room
Thank you for sharing. I wish I had seen this before I had wasted time and money replacing faultty cheap mercedes parts. Mercedes should be ashame.
indeed
hey mike cool vid looks simple witch one do i order if im doing driver side on a 2008 mercedez bennz C300
ok so it doesn't matter ..u can still use the slave for driver side just follow the same cable colours... it will still work..I was simply just trying to state the rest are slave compared to the master where the main unit is..but u can still use the slave gor the driver side and it'll work just fine..the principle is to give power to the actuator wen u press lock and unlock which intern sends ppwer to the lock actuator motor which then spins and locks then unlocks the door ..that's it
Do you have any idea if this will work on a 1999 E320? W210
nor sure
Great Video. Does it also work on drivers side door? I heard you say that the master door might be different?? Thanks in advance.
I confirmed that driver side is the same
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thats great. Thanks. Already ordered one. Im sure your video will help. Thanks
Mike do you have a video for a rear left side for a c220 2010?
no I don't but I will be working on it this year. I've had a guy tell me that it's also possible to fit an actuator in the rear door ..bit must be a precise spot as there isn't much room
Just discovered this problem on my car the same door, right now. Thank you for this ill have to see what ima do to fix i was hoping it just needs a reset but seeing all this video seems ima have to get dirty hahahah
ye .an no way around it ur gonna have to just do it .. very simple and easy fix
Hey what if u have the air lock system and im lost if pump bad or anything will your lock system bypass that
I'm unfamiliar with the air lock system.. do u mean where it uses the air in the hose to lock and unlock the door lock?
I can't say I'm fully knowledgeable about that system ...although I do know the older models tend to use it.. like my w203 ... however ... I can't say indefinitely that it would work ... sorry couldn't help more ..u may need to consult an expert
Hi these don’t deliver to uk where I am based would it work with a different universale actuator as I am afraid the wires may be different colours to what you show on the video
universal lock actuators on ebay.i just got 2 for £9.40
ok guys i just wanted to clarify that you only cut the cables you need to use , the GREY WITH A BLUE STRIPE and the GREY WITH A BLACK STRIPE..
DO NOT CUT ANY OTHER CABLES AS IT WILL INTERFERE WITH THE ROTARY TUMBLE SWITCH WHICH CONTROL POWER TO YOUR COURTESY LIGHT FOR THAT DOOR...
only cutr the wires you are going to use to send signal to and from your aftermarket actuator..thats it ..hope this is more clear and clarifies things abit more and for the master lock (DRIVER DOOR) its the same just use the same wires and wire them up the same and bob's your uncle.. done deal
Is it the same wires for 02 c320?
@@ulicesrodriguez3178 I don't think so different model
thanks Mikey i was going to ask about that as i didn't think cutting the other wires was a good idea. i've just received a pair of actuators this morning both my front doors c200 sport AMG 2007. don't lock. i'll be fitting them asap. Ebay 2 for £9.40 uk.
How can I find out which wires to cut for a 2011 E350 passenger front door ??
@@brandonmassinburg follow the wires coming from the actuator
HI MIKEY. I amm looking for the same actuator for my W204's passenger door, haven't been able to find the same as in your video on Ebay. can you put me in the right direction please? It's an Right Hand drive.
sure I'll sens u a link
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thank you!
Thanks...good job. Very clear and easy.
thanks and glad to be of service
How do I match the 2 wires on the actuator to the correct colors on the door wiring diagram, or my Wife's 2010 Ml350 the colors on the wires don't have gray or black on the hardness?
follow ther wires that power your door lock actuator and they will be the 2 u need
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ , thanks for the quick responds, unfortunately thats were my confusion is at. The wire bundle has 1 pink. 2 reds, 2 orange , 1 yellow wire. I'll try to send you a picture. I have no clue which color provides power to the actuator.
Will this work on my 2010 e350? But I'll just get master instead of slave?
My passenger rear door won’t open at all but I can move the snib up and down with my hand also there’s no resistance on the door handle compared to the other doors any idea what’s wrong and can I get door card off with door closed thanks
no u cant u need to open the door so the panel can come off
I have 2009 ML350 , the power locks don't work on 3 of the doors , l located the 2 power wires with a test light for the lock and unlock modes - however the aftermarket actuator won't work when wired it in -what am I missing ?- it seems like they get power correctly but the ground isn't working
that's odd it should work ... it only needs power sent ro the lock ... did u test to ensure it is getting 12v with a multimeter? put pps and neg to appropriate wires and then press lock and unlock it should show the voltage going to the wires ... check the door module and follow the wires ensure no breaks ... check fuses too relaying to door ... also follow the wires ensure no shorting is happening ..this happened to my seat for my w203 ..I had to flow the cable all the way to the plug harness and voila there it was ... where the seat folds...it was shorting there ... pos and neg were stripped and touching causing the short ..hence auto seats adjustment weren't working
Ingenious, I just ran into this as I worked through some of my codes and although I have a 2010 W212, i’m going to attempt to see if this is possible. As others have done, I too saw the insane labor involved and honestly, I accepted the fact of having to manually lock and unlock.
Huge thanks for the idea and I hope to report back that this is possible on the W212 as well.
good luck I'm sure u find a way mate mercs have alot of room behind door
Hi Dave ive got the 2010 E350 W212 and have had an issue with my rear drivers side actuator not working. I am really thankful to Mikey for doing the 2 wire Universal Mod and was thinking i should try this aswell! Any luck with doing yours yet??
@@AsimEden I hate to say it but I haven’t had the opportunity to do this yet, I have plans to take care of this in the next 2 days so hopefully I should be able to let you know.
I was able to order the actuators from Amazon which came as a pair for $10 and I picked up a box of assorted solder-less heatshrink connectors and assorted heatshrink to complete all for under $30 total.
I will say what gave me the biggest issue and something I may be able to ultimately help you with is making sure of the 2 correct wires to connect to. I bought the Emanual online and although it was only $27 and it is basically the exact same program the stealership uses, including work hours and write ups for charges. The problem with this was I expected a PDF workshop manual that turned out to be a very difficult program requiring to download another program to run. It makes it difficult to find what you need unless you’ve been trained to use a factory dealership program.
It took a couple of weeks during the days i had to spend on it, to learn how to navigate and find the diagram I needed and then I had to change my Bios to run the system to print out the needed info.
So if you are considering a manual don’t use Emanual, I would try a different one, but also if i’m successful then I would be happy to let you know if the rears are the same colors or exactly what they are.
I hope to report back in the next few days.
@@davemccready6013 Dave please dont worry dude..... my actuator has been duff for the last 2 years lmao so no worrys you're doing ok! I've had some experience with these manuals and didnt bother in the end, even the Mercedes WIS/ASRA/EPC programs you can get on ebay and the like are really difficult to install. The saving grace here is that Mikey has quite nicely explained very well the wiring code with regards to the door actuator (Grey-Blue and Grey-Black). MB are pretty consistant with their colour coding so should be the same on ours. I noted that you have come across the low melt solder heatshrink, did a job on a VW Sharan fault with regards to the Fuel Temperature Sensor last week. The guy brought it to me after his mechanic had fitted a new sensor but the fault code and money light was still on. I found the fault to be a broken wire in the loom which was telling the ECU that the Voltage was high from the sensor so Engine light was put on. Found the wire break and used this solder heatshrink, worked beautifully!
I've also found the Universal actuator on ebay and have ordered today......depending on the weather this weekend i might give it ago. i will let you know what i find behind the panel.
@@AsimEden I’m in the same boat going on 2 years of locking the drivers door manually from the rear. So Mikey was a god sent idea. Glad to hear about the connectors since this is my first go at using them, not a fan of crimped.
As far as the wiring goes the colors are different on my front drivers door according to the diagram, but should know for sure tomorrow. I’ll update what the colors are and post an FYI.
I did some digging and the driver side is the same as the passenger side guys so easy fix
Can this be used on the rear driver side door, I have seen a few videos fitting to front door but none for the rear
ive been told it can be done
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ cheers mate
have you looked at the wiring diagram on the extra wire that were cut??? seems like a feature was removed......
the brown with pink and brown with green is for "rotary tumbler switch.........
i read on the mb forums that the rotary tumbler switch doesnt interfere with the lock actuator itself and they are controlled from thd door moddules hence u dont lose a function... i guess u could connect the wires back if u want ... but i havent lost a function at all since doing so.... ive tried ro find info on the rotary tumbler switch itself but i could only find this page ..have a read.... mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/609788-request-power-door-lock-wiring-diagram.html
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ im trying to research it too. Did u know mercedes tell u when the motor is dead in case in case u were not aware? i guess more money for "diagnostic". if mercedes put it there, there is a reason...... i dont see any justification to just cut the wire. did u test with it connected? it might be a sensor to see if someone picked the lock of manuall moved the door lock maybe? just a very possible guess......
@@leonlee9301 yes true but it hasnt affected anything else thus far... everything works as it should...these motors are another common failure on these cars... its not trivial for them to fail..infact they are mkre likely to fail then not... its stupid but its just the case
@@leonlee9301 so in the end according to the forum i linked for you its the ground for the lock... it doesnt actually control anything ...in my car that is... all u needis the two wires i connected and it will work.... as u saw.. but like i said if you are worried bout losing a function then u can try to connect it and see what changes or activates..in my case it didnt make a difference and i was only concerned about getting the lock actuator to work again..rather then paying for another lock module 2nd hand for a few hundred or so... it was a better option to do this ... im not sure if my motor is dead ...this isnt the same as the bouncy lock issue like u see on the w203s... i had that issue and i had to remove the whole door panel and lock actuator from the door frame and it was a massive job..took me ages to get it out .... just to fix a $5 dollar little clip.... then the lock worked again ...if my lock was bouncing i may have gone another route.. but i figured why not do this as a long term temporary fix lol .... as it will still work and u can always re solder the wires anyway if you want .... i always say im against cuttitng factory wires unless u have to.. in this case i did it becuz it made sense to me as well ..thanks for your inout though much appreciated by me and others im sure of it
@@leonlee9301 hey leon so i finally discovered last night that the rotary tumbler switch helps to send signal to the door light, the courtesy light that comes on when you open the door... so i reconnected the other two wires and bam!! the light came back on ..
Hi Mikey,thank your detailed instruction Videos.Do you have videos about rear doors?
no as I haven't needed to do it.. however I've been told that it is possible and it's the same procedure ... just ensure u check and measure a spot that will house the actuator before going any further
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ hi,both my front doors have stopped locking or unlocking. will the after market actuator work on drivers door too?
@@tomdouglas7466 yes it will now I'm not 100% but I've been told from subs rivers that have done it it's the same procedure ...
Season greetings pal. I have have been looking forever for a video like this one as I have the very same issue (left passenger door) with my c200 1.8l cgi for over two years.There is a similar video on the MB forum but it was not as detailed as this one.Actually, because of that video I bought four actuators but when came to the installation I chickened out because of the unclear directions. Yours have given me hope to finally repair this problem. Is it necessary to cut those two wires? In the MB forum video the guy simply connected as you did and it worked.Many thanks for your presence on this forum.All the best for 2021.
yes only cut the two wires u are using .. do not cut any other wires as u will lose a function ... just cut the two wires i connected to and u will be ok and everything will work 100%.. merry Xmas and happy new year to u too
Nice. I'm doing this asap. Thx
My 2015 ML350 w166 appears to be locked, but rear passenger door can be opened from outside with alarm set. Door opens and alarm sounds. Manual lock goes up and down, but door opens when lock indicator is down. Same fix??? Thank you
I have the same problem with my ML350 2015. Did you fix it? How you did it?
Great information thank you from Ireland
thank you welcome to the channel
Love all of your video's mate. Awesome content, editing and explanation. Keep up the great work.
thanks mate really appreciate it
I could not connect to link to buy from Australia. Is there another link for NZ or Australia. Ty.
il try send u a link
Mikey, you are undoubtedly a genius and I bought the actuators so thanks, but my wires don’t have any grey/black or gray/blue. And I don’t think I can trace back to actuator without removing the metal plate. Any suggestions?
there must be a way to trace the wires out from the actuator .. in ur case I would try get the schematics and see exactly which wires are for the actuator that way u don't have to trace or guess
Hey thank you for your super quick response man. I’m gonna pimp you everywhere. But I did see that I have eight wires going into my actuator. Six of them go into a pin clip and the other two I can’t figure out where they go. I can’t help it I think the other two are going to be my power. Thoughts?
@@terrymurtha2451 that's my best guess ... schematics would definitely help... apart from that I would onl suggest tracing the wire ... another good place to ask is the forums ..maybe someone else has had the same issue and there's an answer already ...
Maybe use a contactless voltage tester to know which wires receive power when locking or unlocking
Simple hack mate fantastic
thanks mate...I appreciate u
Did you ever do a rear door actuator as this looks more difficult ,?
definitely abit different but I haven't had any issues as yet so haven't done it ..but I def will consider it as alot of u guys have been asking for it so def will do it ...
Will this work on a Mercedes C320? Ty.
yes it should
let me know how to find which lines to connect the device"s lines
? sorry hud not sure what ur asking? do u mean which cables ? colour codes? cuz its all there in the video ... and there's only 2 wires you need to connect to power the actuator so that wen u press lock or unlock it powers it and spins it to lock and unlock ... very straight forward ..are u asking about something else ? how u find then..u open the entire door frame and expose all the wires that are in the door ..then u follow which wires goto your factory lock actuator ..once u have determines which cables are for the actuator u connect them to your universal actuator ..it just needs pos and neg for power that's it ..no other cables needed
Hey Mikey, I have too questions for you:
I was really impressed and rushed to buy the actuator, but none of the links exist anymore. Is it not for sale these days ?
If it is still for sale, then can I use it on my driver side rear door?
Really hoping for positive answers because I really don't feel like all that work to fix my door the old fashioned way,
Thanks
@edwardtaaffe1 hey bud u can find these anywhere . sorry I haven't updated the links I will be sure to do them again ..although it's hard to keep up as they sell out..only when ppl tell me then I know...so I will update the links..u can buy these at most automotive stores ..ebay and Amazon have them too... yes u can use it on your driver side rear door..it has been done already but ppl in the comment t section
So my mercedes that I just bought it has a bouncing lock. Tonight when I tried to fix I saw videos of everything they were pulling off and out. Which is alot. I love your video I am gonna try this. But I noticed in the beginning of your video you said I didn't need to put this on all doors. Now the bouncy lock is on my right front but noticed tonight that all the other locks don't budge at all so now were would I put the universal actuator r should I get 4 of them and put on all 4 doors
hi Lindsey so all u need to do is follow the video regardless of which door your trying to fix and it will be ok .. the bouncing lock is from a pin breaking or actuator malfunctioned... in any case u can do this to fix it ... much better and cheaper then replacing the actuator with an oem or genuine part.. also alot less trouble as well... the wires will be colour coded the same so as long as u do exactly what I did u will be ok.. gluck hope u get it sorted
wen u say the other doors or locks don't budge do u mean they all don't work ? or only the front right doesn't work?
whichever doesn't work fix it using this method and u will be able to fix it .. u can also do this for the rear doors ..same cables same colours ...
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I believe all four doors don't work the locks don't move at all on the other 3 doors and the right front is the bouncing lock
@@lindseysanchez8035 that's doesn't sound good... have u checked its not just fuses ? google your cars fuse diagram and check fuses relating to the door lock pins... I all else fails then I would try taking the door off and seeing if there's any loose connections
Question
. If I used that door actuator the alarm is still work?? Have the same problem on mercedes 2009 c 300 driver side door
yes it will it's just to change the motor that spins the lock the alarm is connected via cars ignition system and ecu and that's what tells alarm to activate and deactivate when u lock unlock
Hello Mikey thanks for the tips mate you helped me also with my ESL 👌
My rear passenger door UK model won’t open even though both outside and inside handles feel really solid so nothing feels out of place or broken.
Do you have any tips for that ? Is the replacement door lock actuator going to fix this issue?
Thanks a lot
does it unlock ? if it does then u may need to check the part that latchs onto the door handle ... its a wire that the door handle pulls on
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ it doesn’t unlock (key fob) When I do pull the handle from the interior the lock pin pops up but the door won’t open. Obviously I am careful doing that as I have seen lots of them braking.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ is this wire accessible easily or do I have to remove the window and get to the mechanism ? Also are those £15 universal locks suitable for the rear doors ? Obviously sorting out the wire is one thing but while I am doing that I probably would have to change the actuator it didn’t sound that lively..voltage is good and battery in almost brand new
Hi. Great video. Did I understand correctly that it cannot be fitted to the driver's door? Is it possible to only splice it to the wires to the motor leaving all the others?
ps this motor looks suspiciously like that on the steering lock. How many cheap Chinese motors are there on this "premium " brand?
lol...I know right...for such a beautiful name brand car ..why did they cheap out on certain parts? that's the question isn't it... and as for drivers door... usually u would use a master actuator lock...but I guess in theory all u need to do is provide power to the lock actuator so it can lock and unlock the car lock... so with that said ...it just may be possible to use the exact same for driver side ... cuz all ur really doing is connecting a power circuit so that wenever a lock button is pressed it will power the actuator so it can spin locking and unlocking the lock 🔐
My passenger door is stuck open would this fix the latch issue?
Hey mind is the rear passenger door are you able to advise
it's the exact same procedure and there is a spot that will fit the actuator too ... so yes it can. e done easily just ensure you mark measure twice and drill once ... and test fit always first if ur unsure .. wiring is same ...
Hi Mikey, will this work for all models. I have a 2007 ml280cdi. I was quoted $1000 for one actuator and door lock combined. Both my driver door and front passenger side have gone. Can you please confirm which ones in need to buy to make sure I understand. As a single mum I have no idea and it seems hard but I’m willing to give it go as I can’t afford to fix it otherwise. I’m currently climbing from the back seat to open it. Stupid the key doesn’t open it either. Thank you
hi ... firstly i cant say definately if it will work on ur model as i habe never done it on other models.. but from how the actuator works ... it should be thr same procedure and should work..as all u are doing is sendinh power to the after market motor in order to allow the door to unlock and lock again... theoretically it should work..its just a matter of finding the righy spot to mount it.... if i were in your shoes i would give it a go... as the part is very cheap and its better then spending $1000 .... remove your door frame have a look at the wires you have and see if they match ... getting schematics would help alot as it will show you exactly what wires go where and what they do and what colour they are... but from experience merc like to use the same colour codes for wires ... but really only one way to find out and that is to remove the door and have a look... i hope this helps you out somewhat...