You really do produce superb content. Interesting, informative, music that enhances not overpowers, calm speech without shouting to camera. Quite frankly, it's masterful. Bravo
With Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
In Norway we use the angle grinder to cope skirtings. Same method you use with a sanding attatchement. Defiently try it! Will never use a coping saw again!
Just a small tip, when you doing door trims, start with the top one, same as you did.. BUT, when you do the side, just flip the trim, frontside against the wall, then hit top trim edge with the sidetrim.. it will leave a mark, no need for measurements. Perfect length every time
@@SteS The only method I have seen Robin doing is marking the frame then he marks the miter short sides for the top and marks the sides short sides then saws them all and miter glues them together on the floor.
Its interesting, here in canada the most common way would be to apply plaster and then apply baseboard before the flooring is installed so the painters comes in and spray everything (makes for a really nice finish, no brush or roller marks) after that we have the florring installed and then the quarter rounds at the base of the baseboard. Its very common for production house builder to do it in this order
It's done that way so there is less chance of movement or cracking of plaster by fixing timber work after the plastering has been done, also with the timer work in place the plastering helps take out any imperfections around the timber
Been another kiwi qualified carpenter, I also generally put finish trim on first, otherwise in the internal cnrs it's been pack out of square from plaster, and tape joins are usually not flat after plaster, so u either have to sand it flat, scratch it out or plane the back of the skirts, otherwise it looks wavey. Plasterers prefer to you to do it after them, but that's cause they are to lazy to Sand it properly
Basically comes down to choice. Do it first and the finishing becomes the plasterer's problem; do it after and it becomes the carpenter's problem. Generally builders/carpenters here in NZ don't give a damn about the ultimate "best practice".
Ideally you would wait for plasterers to go through first, but sometimes with delays you can't wait As an ex plasterer and now builder I definitely prefer to wait.
Hey 👋 we got the same problem here in Norway timber is going up 25/40 % and there’s shortage. But the forests aren’t being cut. Prices of timber is less then in 2018. Somewhere someone is getting the big 💵💵💵
Lumber issues here in Canada & the US as well...but there is enough to be found, just you get sticker shock when you pay for it. 8'x4'x5/8" OSB sheets 18 months ago were about $13cad, the latest price I saw last week was $92cad!! Stick framing is around 5x prices 18 months ago... pressure treated is about 4x 18months ago...
11:35 nice that you’re thinking of “maintenance” (future proofing) the install for other workers or homeowners if need to get access. Pretty nice of you👍🏻, and some ppl don’t think about this when installing, but imo….they should. Cheers✌🏻
Done a couple jobs where we installed baseboard before the flooring. Held it up the thickness of the T&G with plastic shims, off the subfloor. Worked out great.
Looking forward to when you upload content for an Upper Floor Extension. This will make for excellent viewing. I have done a lot of upper-floor extensions, it'll be exciting to watch you show the folks how it all goes down. 👍
I was using this scotia for the first time over the summer and I honestly spent about an hour just coping and recutting offcuts just trying to figure out how they join. I found a raking ceiling to be particularly challenging. Great tips scott this video would have been helpful 3 months ago 😅
Love the tips, as i just happen to be busy fitting new cornices (scotia) and architraves. But an oddball question: do you leave instructions on how to remove that top piece of architrave for the cavity door? Or how will the someone other than you know to unscrew the top only and gently pry off that piece without wrecking things? Or is that a standard approach and most craftspersons know to look for those screws first?
I cut on the flat at 35 degrees on the deck and 30 on the bevel that is how I cut large spring crown with a 10 " slider... but I do cope with a flap disc.... great job 👏
Good to see you Aucklanders are having a shortage too, we've been fighting it in the far north since Covid. Its so damn hard to get materials up here. Govt. #1 was used in not just state housing, but all government buildings like schools, libraries, council buildings and so on, but a lot of non govt houses had it as well. A LOT of the houses in the Far North here have it because it was cheaper at the time
Great video Scott! You've inspired me to film an off grid cottage build my father and I are doing, starting in two weeks! So learning some video editing tips from you is helpful ;)
More great vids Scott, I’ve got little blocks of timber with the 3mm and 5 mm rebates I use to place in the corners of the door frames/jams, to mark your quirks, then same as you cut your head, 45 the legs flip them upside down and mark the short side and a set of arcs done in minutes 👍🏽🏴
Hey Scott, maybe this tip is useful, so what i like to do when i have architraves, i use an angle grinder with a flap disc to cut the back pieces out. Maybe its useful hope you have a great day, greets from the Netherlands!!
Hey Scott, if you get the chance could you guys please do a video on making a storey rod and doing a set out for weatherboard? I'm a 3rd year carpentry apprentice and I really appreciate the skills you teach in your videos. Keep up the great work! Cheers!
How come you don’t do skirting and scotia after it’s been plastered?, when the joins get filled and external angles get troweled, will it bulge over all the trim?
Hey Scott look up using a grinder to do the first cut you have made. Much easier and cleaner with proper grinding disc. You miter 45 then grind away the back.
We have a lumber (timber) shortage in Canada. I'll say that again, Canada has a shortage of wood products, particularly construction materials. It's insane what the prices are now for simple things like a 2x4.
@@daver7867 - base board is skirting, not dry wall / plaster board / Gib, but yeah, we call things different names to other countries. I think the name scotia is unique to NZ / Oz.
@@cmmartti - that's correct and plasterboard is one word as well, but it was late when I replied (that's my excuse, lol). As someone who has family in France, UK & USA, I often interchange different terms depending on which relative I'm talking with, but still forget to switch out of Kiwi sometimes. Crown molding in the UK is called Coving, although if it's really fancy, it's called Cornice (plus the Brits spell molding as moulding). I actually prefer to use US terminology, because it makes more sense to me.
Yo.. I've purchased Gib scotia to use in a bathroom, but it as a product isn't wet area rated. Should I use it, a different product? Or gap filler in behind it?
Period thing in the house he is doing. The house was an old "State" house built by the Government in the day ( probably 1950s) to standard specifications and rented to people. There were thousands built in NZ. A lot have been sold off to to private owners who renovate them to modern expectations ( as Scott is doing). Tight stop is used in some newer houses ( and was popular 20 years ago) instead of timber or plaster scotia but very modern houses/apartments they use square wooden scotia. Saves money and time with plastering.
You can make a jig and attach it to the saw to get the combo mitre for crown molding. Do a video showing that. First was shown this in trade school. Great trick
I have an ex-state house and I cannot find the right size scotia - where do I go? Currently I am taking off scotia from wardrobes but it breaks into pieces (I find rimu to be brittle) and gluing back together and using. It is a mission
I remember a couple years back myself and my mentor had to return to a job which had some pocket doors. The tenant had hung this really nice picture up on the wall and didn't realise that when he put the screw in the wall for a hanging point that a 32mm drywall screw was driven into the pocket door and was unable to close the door, absolutely hilarious and we all laughed our heads off 🤣
The pink coloured timber is H1.2 and is treated (Boron) against borer and is for internal use only. H3.2 is treated against rot and is for external use above ground level. H4 is if the timber comes in to ground contact, such as concreted in fence posts. H5 is for use when concreted in to the ground and used in critical areas such as house piles. H6 is when used in seawater, such as wharf piles. So H1.2 is pink and H3.2 is green. See here for an in depth look... www.weathertight.org.nz/new-buildings/timber-treatment/
I built that pergola/deck inside South Pacific Timber’s! Every bit of timber on it from the posts to the boards is all vitex! I think... I don’t remember m😂
Personally I like putting them on before as sometimes the plaster isn’t perfect and can create imperfections or slight waves in the wall, making it an annoyance to put the trim up, also eliminates the risk of you damaging any of the plasterers work on accident while putting up the trims
@@harry7344 haha as a drywaller I can confirm. I hate mudding up against trim. It doesn't make sense to me especially on low profile trims. Because you have to build the mud out on inside and outside corners, so then you have to build it out over the trim? Idk I never find it looks good. I'll usually take the trim off even if the builder didn't haha.
Hi, for 30 years I did scribing just like this, however a couple of years ago I learnt a new technique using a grinder and a flap wheel - much quicker, more accurate, and only one tool required. I'm sure there must be videos on UA-cam about how to do it this way, check it out.
Came here to say exactly this. I had to do tons of Scotia at a recent reno, with a very complicated profile, and it went a MILLION times faster with a grinder/flap disk 🤙 it's the only way I'll do it now
Scott! How do you keep all your tool batteries charged? Im interested in starting out and trying to pick a battery platform for home DIY. Ryobi atm seem to have the best solution for charging all the batteries in one 6 port charger.
@@ccadama no worries. Check out a company called TFTOOLS, they usuallyhave them in stock. They're based in the SouthWest UK but i think they will ship to other countries
Instead of using a coping saw, would you ever consider using a cordless angle grinding tool? We found it much faster and neater as long as your hand is steady.
Is there a Video of it on YT? I’m interested in your suggestion, but can’t immagine how ot should look like/what the steps are, etc. - I’m just a DIYer, my actual Job is in an office and has nothing to do with carpentry...
25 mm lol aka 1” I love watching canada, uk, australia, and new zealand construction videos. Despite years of using metrics, construction and wood working, imperial will always be used in some shape or form.
16ft 6 inch shiplap is the problem here in Ireland, not a bit of it to be gotten anywhere, bit so much of a timber drought tho, many suppliers have lots,
Nope, framing timber is local plantation forestry pinus radiata. There's no shortage of timber, just a processing shortage as Carters (large timber processor) had an issue in a factory upgrade and decided to restrict who they supply.
Can someone tell me the reason for coping a simple inside corner? Why not just cut it with the miter saw, i mean that's such a simple and fast cut. It will look exactly the same if not better. If the wall or ceiling is a little out of square you can easily adjust and nail it down perfect. Or use an angle finder or even the Festool thing if you happen to have it. And also weird to do trims before the painters? Here all the trim goes in at the very last step of the build. Or does the trim get painted too with the walls? It looks pre-painted in the video.
@@whatwouldbenice the compass pointy side follows the contours of the fixed material and the compass pencil side drawers it onto the to be cut material as an exact transfer of ins and outs, the problem with cutting at 45° is that it doesn't allow for if the fixed material is at an angle (lets say the skirting is leaning little) whereas the compasses follow what is.
I do it the same too but just push an off cut of the skirting against the already fixed piece, draw the line up your piece to be cut then draw round the mould cope it out.follows the contour of the wall everytime. Like you say skirtings very rarely perfectly plum to a wall.Such a simple method but hard to explain see so many chippies over here in the UK cut 45’s first then cope out and it never fits first time.
I’ve found an easier way to measure architraves, Measure inside of jamb to inside of jamb + 90 =long point to long point of arc Then measure up whole house and cut them all 90 = 42+42+3+3 42mm arcs, 3mm quirks I’m in aus though, so arc sizes might be different
@@greydog1104 In likely a small part. More that people are stuck at home, spending their vacation money on renovations. People wanting to move out of cities to the country (more than suburbs) to have more space and/or because they can work from home now, driving a building boom. And people moving from the cities buying houses in the suburbs and country, and wanting to do renovations/expansions. As one UA-camr put it, "lumber is the new toilet paper" ("Trent and Allie", to give proper credit).
@@rodmackenzie9986 Rod, Not sure which SA you are located ; ) but if you Google: spring miter clamps in Australia or spring miter clamps in South Africa you will find them…
@@johnstewartrichards5922 Hi John , the African SA ... Thanks will look . have just come across a tape measure with a built in 'pencil' , have a look at Quickdraw .
You really do produce superb content. Interesting, informative, music that enhances not overpowers, calm speech without shouting to camera. Quite frankly, it's masterful. Bravo
With Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
In Norway we use the angle grinder to cope skirtings. Same method you use with a sanding attatchement. Defiently try it! Will never use a coping saw again!
Scott Brown Carpentry Best UA-cam Channel Out Today If You Ever Need A Carpenter From Canada Hit Me Up *Laughing*
Just a small tip, when you doing door trims, start with the top one, same as you did.. BUT, when you do the side, just flip the trim, frontside against the wall, then hit top trim edge with the sidetrim.. it will leave a mark, no need for measurements. Perfect length every time
Is there a video for this
@@michaelrobinsoni5516 take your length of architrave cut a miter offer it up, miter cut down, mark at the top of the head , done no tape needed.
I'd jus mark quirks and measure to my short point. Then you can cut them all depending on size
@@michaelrobinsoni5516 look up Robin Clevetts video on architrave and skirting where he shows this method. He's one hell of a carpenter.
@@SteS The only method I have seen Robin doing is marking the frame then he marks the miter short sides for the top and marks the sides short sides then saws them all and miter glues them together on the floor.
Its interesting, here in canada the most common way would be to apply plaster and then apply baseboard before the flooring is installed so the painters comes in and spray everything (makes for a really nice finish, no brush or roller marks) after that we have the florring installed and then the quarter rounds at the base of the baseboard. Its very common for production house builder to do it in this order
Scott brown your videos bring me joy keep the the great work !!
10:13 great tip. Somebody on my house nailed through the cavity sliders removable timber bits. Was a massive pain to get off and paint the door.
How come you put your Arcs & Skirts on before plastering ? Here in the U.K. we doing all trim work after the plasters have finished
It's done that way so there is less chance of movement or cracking of plaster by fixing timber work after the plastering has been done, also with the timer work in place the plastering helps take out any imperfections around the timber
Been another kiwi qualified carpenter, I also generally put finish trim on first, otherwise in the internal cnrs it's been pack out of square from plaster, and tape joins are usually not flat after plaster, so u either have to sand it flat, scratch it out or plane the back of the skirts, otherwise it looks wavey.
Plasterers prefer to you to do it after them, but that's cause they are to lazy to Sand it properly
Basically comes down to choice. Do it first and the finishing becomes the plasterer's problem; do it after and it becomes the carpenter's problem. Generally builders/carpenters here in NZ don't give a damn about the ultimate "best practice".
Ideally you would wait for plasterers to go through first, but sometimes with delays you can't wait
As an ex plasterer and now builder I definitely prefer to wait.
Because he's rushing the job or he's struggling to get a plasterer... normal way is Plasterer then trim work then paint..
A craftsman who knows how to do a proper coped mitre joint. Good on you, mate. Well done.
Lol you'd never make any money with the amount of time he took. Get a dang jigsaw to cut the copes...
Hey 👋 we got the same problem here in Norway timber is going up 25/40 % and there’s shortage. But the forests aren’t being cut. Prices of timber is less then in 2018. Somewhere someone is getting the big 💵💵💵
I can watching your films all thay long. Greetings from Poland
Well that's me having just watched every exciting episode in order. About a month im picking. Not sure what I'm supposed to do now!
Lumber issues here in Canada & the US as well...but there is enough to be found, just you get sticker shock when you pay for it. 8'x4'x5/8" OSB sheets 18 months ago were about $13cad, the latest price I saw last week was $92cad!! Stick framing is around 5x prices 18 months ago... pressure treated is about 4x 18months ago...
11:35 nice that you’re thinking of “maintenance” (future proofing) the install for other workers or homeowners if need to get access. Pretty nice of you👍🏻, and some ppl don’t think about this when installing, but imo….they should.
Cheers✌🏻
Done a couple jobs where we installed baseboard before the flooring. Held it up the thickness of the T&G with plastic shims, off the subfloor. Worked out great.
Try the flap disk on a grinder mate my go to now
Once you try the flap disk you’ll never go back
Looking forward to when you upload content for an Upper Floor Extension. This will make for excellent viewing. I have done a lot of upper-floor extensions, it'll be exciting to watch you show the folks how it all goes down. 👍
You're putting trim up before the plasterer gets there? And Plasterboard is still getting ripped out?
I was using this scotia for the first time over the summer and I honestly spent about an hour just coping and recutting offcuts just trying to figure out how they join. I found a raking ceiling to be particularly challenging. Great tips scott this video would have been helpful 3 months ago 😅
Love the tips, as i just happen to be busy fitting new cornices (scotia) and architraves.
But an oddball question: do you leave instructions on how to remove that top piece of architrave for the cavity door? Or how will the someone other than you know to unscrew the top only and gently pry off that piece without wrecking things? Or is that a standard approach and most craftspersons know to look for those screws first?
I cut on the flat at 35 degrees on the deck and 30 on the bevel that is how I cut large spring crown with a 10 " slider... but I do cope with a flap disc.... great job 👏
Good to see you Aucklanders are having a shortage too, we've been fighting it in the far north since Covid. Its so damn hard to get materials up here. Govt. #1 was used in not just state housing, but all government buildings like schools, libraries, council buildings and so on, but a lot of non govt houses had it as well. A LOT of the houses in the Far North here have it because it was cheaper at the time
Great video Scott! You've inspired me to film an off grid cottage build my father and I are doing, starting in two weeks! So learning some video editing tips from you is helpful ;)
More great vids Scott, I’ve got little blocks of timber with the 3mm and 5 mm rebates I use to place in the corners of the door frames/jams, to mark your quirks, then same as you cut your head, 45 the legs flip them upside down and mark the short side and a set of arcs done in minutes 👍🏽🏴
Congratulations Charles
Great content. It’s always a treat to watch your skills in practical applications,
That phallic clamp was interesting 🤣
Interesting that you put the scotia molding up before the plastering. Do they caulk that seam?
I think you could release a video of paint drying and I would watch it Scott! 😂😂🙈
Get yourself some 2 part mitre mate Scott, it's an adhesive and activator so you can preassemble your arc then just tack them in place
PS we always skim first then fit second fix trims after
Hey Scott, maybe this tip is useful, so what i like to do when i have architraves, i use an angle grinder with a flap disc to cut the back pieces out. Maybe its useful hope you have a great day, greets from the Netherlands!!
I like that method too. I think Scott has to minimize airborne dust.
@@f.demascio1857 yeh true, its really really nice to use.
Hey Scott, if you get the chance could you guys please do a video on making a storey rod and doing a set out for weatherboard?
I'm a 3rd year carpentry apprentice and I really appreciate the skills you teach in your videos. Keep up the great work!
Cheers!
Great info, Scott. Maybe I’ll get another visit down-under sometime! loved it when I visited a few years ago - (Christchurch)
Love your work Scott including your smooth music keep up the great work.
Good video. Very informative. People tell me that the lumber shortage will be over in 6 to 12 months.
Always great to watch SBC.. interesting re supplies becoming ‘thin on the ground’.👍😎
9:23...the gesture that finishes whatever sentence you've started...
Glad to see that gesture is the same with carpenters all over the world. Lol
Another informative video Scott,thank you from the UK.👍👍
Really love your work Scott! You inspired me to really think about stuff I can add to my home. I already did a deck and some shelves. :)
Good job. That's how I run crown (I'm in Florida). We run crown and base after the walls are finished though.
How come you don’t do skirting and scotia after it’s been plastered?, when the joins get filled and external angles get troweled, will it bulge over all the trim?
I use a Drimmel with a wood cutting disc to do my coping cuts on skirts/scotia. Its a bit quicker and neater than a coping saw.
The square head screw is called a Roberson screw Scott. Very very...VERY common here in Canada
Simply called a square drive here in NZ by every single person here... except Scott in this video.
I use a grinder with a fine grit flap disc to burn off the material instead of using a hand saw, give it a try, it is very effective ;)
Hey Scott look up using a grinder to do the first cut you have made. Much easier and cleaner with proper grinding disc. You miter 45 then grind away the back.
What are those metal wire looking clamps called that you use to secure the corners before fastening them into position ??
Hey Scott. Consider using pocket hole screws on the back of the trim or some GRK style torx bit trim screws on the top.
We have a lumber (timber) shortage in Canada. I'll say that again, Canada has a shortage of wood products, particularly construction materials. It's insane what the prices are now for simple things like a 2x4.
And the quality has slipped too
In Canada we call it base board, casing, and crown molding.
Same in the States
different countries different names.......here the dry wall or base board is called gib....pronounced jib
@@daver7867 - base board is skirting, not dry wall / plaster board / Gib, but yeah, we call things different names to other countries. I think the name scotia is unique to NZ / Oz.
@@richardbaron7106 my bad....lol
@@cmmartti - that's correct and plasterboard is one word as well, but it was late when I replied (that's my excuse, lol).
As someone who has family in France, UK & USA, I often interchange different terms depending on which relative I'm talking with, but still forget to switch out of Kiwi sometimes.
Crown molding in the UK is called Coving, although if it's really fancy, it's called Cornice (plus the Brits spell molding as moulding).
I actually prefer to use US terminology, because it makes more sense to me.
Yo.. I've purchased Gib scotia to use in a bathroom, but it as a product isn't wet area rated. Should I use it, a different product? Or gap filler in behind it?
Do you never just tape the ceiling to wall corner and let the plasterer just finish it square? Or is the scotia a period thing?
Period thing in the house he is doing. The house was an old "State" house built by the Government in the day ( probably 1950s) to standard specifications and rented to people. There were thousands built in NZ. A lot have been sold off to to private owners who renovate them to modern expectations ( as Scott is doing).
Tight stop is used in some newer houses ( and was popular 20 years ago) instead of timber or plaster scotia but very modern houses/apartments they use square wooden scotia. Saves money and time with plastering.
You can make a jig and attach it to the saw to get the combo mitre for crown molding. Do a video showing that. First was shown this in trade school. Great trick
Scott , why are you putting the trim on before the taping?
I have an ex-state house and I cannot find the right size scotia - where do I go? Currently I am taking off scotia from wardrobes but it breaks into pieces (I find rimu to be brittle) and gluing back together and using. It is a mission
I remember a couple years back myself and my mentor had to return to a job which had some pocket doors. The tenant had hung this really nice picture up on the wall and didn't realise that when he put the screw in the wall for a hanging point that a 32mm drywall screw was driven into the pocket door and was unable to close the door, absolutely hilarious and we all laughed our heads off 🤣
Hi Scott. I have a question. Maybe stupid. Do you protect (impregnate) wood in New Zealand or just only color it?
The pink coloured timber is H1.2 and is treated (Boron) against borer and is for internal use only. H3.2 is treated against rot and is for external use above ground level. H4 is if the timber comes in to ground contact, such as concreted in fence posts. H5 is for use when concreted in to the ground and used in critical areas such as house piles. H6 is when used in seawater, such as wharf piles. So H1.2 is pink and H3.2 is green. See here for an in depth look... www.weathertight.org.nz/new-buildings/timber-treatment/
@@ericwolff6059 THANKS ! Do you know the preparations necessary to achieve this effect? I mean the contact between wood and concrete.
I think if you can visit the following website, it may help answer your question: www.weathertight.org.nz/new-buildings/timber-treatment/
I built that pergola/deck inside South Pacific Timber’s! Every bit of timber on it from the posts to the boards is all vitex! I think... I don’t remember m😂
I’ve never seen anyone apply trim before plaster work was finished. Interesting.
Personally I like putting them on before as sometimes the plaster isn’t perfect and can create imperfections or slight waves in the wall, making it an annoyance to put the trim up, also eliminates the risk of you damaging any of the plasterers work on accident while putting up the trims
@Phelebas yeah haha they hate it
It's easier for the plasterer one way... easier for the builder the other way.
I love putting trim on first.
I also like to put mine on first as it stops the plasterers building out the corners to far and keeps them on point
@@harry7344 haha as a drywaller I can confirm. I hate mudding up against trim. It doesn't make sense to me especially on low profile trims. Because you have to build the mud out on inside and outside corners, so then you have to build it out over the trim? Idk I never find it looks good. I'll usually take the trim off even if the builder didn't haha.
Scott upping his coffee game with the chemex
What was that device which released that metal corner clamp on the door architrave?
Hi, for 30 years I did scribing just like this, however a couple of years ago I learnt a new technique using a grinder and a flap wheel - much quicker, more accurate, and only one tool required. I'm sure there must be videos on UA-cam about how to do it this way, check it out.
Came here to say exactly this. I had to do tons of Scotia at a recent reno, with a very complicated profile, and it went a MILLION times faster with a grinder/flap disk 🤙 it's the only way I'll do it now
UA-cam has changed the way people do a ton of stuff.
Scott! How do you keep all your tool batteries charged? Im interested in starting out and trying to pick a battery platform for home DIY.
Ryobi atm seem to have the best solution for charging all the batteries in one 6 port charger.
Milwaukee also has a six port and is better all round. Dewalt has a 4 pirt i believe
try using your pencil to leave a line on your cut edge as a guide, it's the way I do it and it's work for me :-)
Those wire clamps you used on the architrave aren't listed in your tools list. What are that called please?
Collins Mitre Clamps 👍
Cheers.
@@ScottTaylorJoinery Thanks for the info!
@@ccadama no worries. Check out a company called TFTOOLS, they usuallyhave them in stock. They're based in the SouthWest UK but i think they will ship to other countries
Looked like they should be called the cock & balls clamp.
Wait a freakin minute! No SMOKO TIME!! Scott, what the hey!!!!
2:20 you always get those random tradies with the dad jokes around the yard lol
Instead of using a coping saw, would you ever consider using a cordless angle grinding tool? We found it much faster and neater as long as your hand is steady.
Is there a Video of it on YT? I’m interested in your suggestion, but can’t immagine how ot should look like/what the steps are, etc. - I’m just a DIYer, my actual Job is in an office and has nothing to do with carpentry...
The details.....give me the fizz👍🏻
Loving your videos recently
Do you want any coffee with that milk? Only kidding, keep up the good work and thanks for the vids
I like all your video's👍🏼👍🏼
@Mark ?
Scott you should get some branded fold out rulers going on the website!
25 mm lol aka 1”
I love watching canada, uk, australia, and new zealand construction videos. Despite years of using metrics, construction and wood working, imperial will always be used in some shape or form.
The original house was built pre-metric, so it’s to match existing I’d say.
I literally brought one of those tension rods Monday
16ft 6 inch shiplap is the problem here in Ireland, not a bit of it to be gotten anywhere, bit so much of a timber drought tho, many suppliers have lots,
Hey Scott you need to buy a Collins coping foot your jig saw they are on amazon for about $50. Always enjoy your videos 📐🗜🇨🇦👍V0r1n2
He has one. He showed it in the last remodel. I was hoping he'd use it in this video.
Keep up the great work.....road to 300
Would I be right in thinking that a lot of the gaps in the racking in your timber outlets are because they’re imported Scott?
Nope, framing timber is local plantation forestry pinus radiata. There's no shortage of timber, just a processing shortage as Carters (large timber processor) had an issue in a factory upgrade and decided to restrict who they supply.
@@jestriding thank you for answering my question.👍
scott you should try the milwaukee 305mm drop saw in only ways 21.5 kg and it is a great saw you should give it ago
Can you review the Makita vac??
Why didnt you use the coping base on the jigsaw? You gotta do a proper vid with that its an awesome tool
A common practice in the northeast U.S. is to not pin the architrave trim to the drywall. allows to easy replacement
Your Makita Mitre Saw with the subtitles on is a “Mitosaur” the “Makita Mitosauraus Rex”
Do you not need to leave space under the skirting for flooring or carpet? Never think it looks great sitting up against the board.
Hell no, it's never done that way. Smoothedge and tuck
What is the namwe of the clamp you used on the external corner of the architrave - with the aplicator tool?
www.amazon.co.uk/Feiyang-Clamps-Woodworking-Picture-Moldings/dp/B07V7TQBD3/ref=asc_df_B07V7TQBD3/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499292497816&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4692546711787877153&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046134&hvtargid=pla-822601954285&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Great work as always. Could we have a kitchen reno ??
Can someone tell me the reason for coping a simple inside corner? Why not just cut it with the miter saw, i mean that's such a simple and fast cut. It will look exactly the same if not better. If the wall or ceiling is a little out of square you can easily adjust and nail it down perfect. Or use an angle finder or even the Festool thing if you happen to have it. And also weird to do trims before the painters? Here all the trim goes in at the very last step of the build. Or does the trim get painted too with the walls? It looks pre-painted in the video.
Great episode. Where do you get your timber from Scott?
When's paerau going to finish his puhoro?
Hey Scott, great video. What is the name of the specialist timber firm?
Looked like South Pacific Timber
Why don’t you use much wet plaster finish in NZ?
Do you ever use a file after you cope? As an apprentice carpenter in the states, I’ve been doing that. Love the content Scott!!
As a joiner in the UK, I use a pair of compasses to scribe the skirting boards in rather than cut them 45° and cope the back out
Can you explain that again to a beginner? (asking for a friend...)
@@whatwouldbenice the compass pointy side follows the contours of the fixed material and the compass pencil side drawers it onto the to be cut material as an exact transfer of ins and outs, the problem with cutting at 45° is that it doesn't allow for if the fixed material is at an angle (lets say the skirting is leaning little) whereas the compasses follow what is.
@@SimonX07 fantastic tip mate I will remember that cheers
I do it the same too but just push an off cut of the skirting against the already fixed piece, draw the line up your piece to be cut then draw round the mould cope it out.follows the contour of the wall everytime. Like you say skirtings very rarely perfectly plum to a wall.Such a simple method but hard to explain see so many chippies over here in the UK cut 45’s first then cope out and it never fits first time.
@@gmafh1315 are you doing trim before or after mud?
Nice waist coat/body warmer.
I’ve found an easier way to measure architraves,
Measure inside of jamb to inside of jamb + 90
=long point to long point of arc
Then measure up whole house and cut them all
90 = 42+42+3+3
42mm arcs, 3mm quirks
I’m in aus though, so arc sizes might be different
Great videos scott
More trim videos Scott they’re too good !!
Brilliant Scott
Lumber shortage same all over in the USA also.
Same thing in Canada, and prices are ridiculous.
Is this caused by not enough people at work because of virus?
@@greydog1104 In likely a small part. More that people are stuck at home, spending their vacation money on renovations. People wanting to move out of cities to the country (more than suburbs) to have more space and/or because they can work from home now, driving a building boom. And people moving from the cities buying houses in the suburbs and country, and wanting to do renovations/expansions. As one UA-camr put it, "lumber is the new toilet paper" ("Trent and Allie", to give proper credit).
Good set of tips Scott , thanks . What is the retaining clip thingy called ? The applicaator looks like a castrator ring applicator ..?
Spring miter clamps
@@johnstewartrichards5922 Thanks John , never seen ém in SA
@@rodmackenzie9986 Rod, Not sure which SA you are located ; ) but if you Google: spring miter clamps in Australia or spring miter clamps in South Africa you will find them…
@@johnstewartrichards5922 Hi John , the African SA ... Thanks will look . have just come across a tape measure with a built in 'pencil' , have a look at Quickdraw .