How to adjust your Clutch: Ford Mustang. Clutch quadrant & firewall adjuster ajustar embrague chirp
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2016
- Full clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, and cable install • Clutch quadrant, firew...
Freeplay elimination mod • Clutch Freeplay elimin...
This video shows two different theories on adjusting the clutch.
The key is to have the bearing slightly spinning, but not have a lot of load on it until you press the clutch pedal. If you hear a “chirping” sound, turn counter-clockwise until it barely goes away. This will keep the slight preload on the bearing but not burn the bearing up by spinning constantly WITH load on it- which is what you do not want.
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Here are maximum motorsports instructions for the constant contact
Securely attach the firewall adjuster to the firewall.
Assemble the firewall adjuster correctly using the manufacturer's installation instructions. The adjuster mechanism has two parts: the half bolted to the firewall protrudes into the firewall, not out and away from it.
Route the cable so the end of the outer housing seats squarely against the adjuster mechanism.
The transmission end of the clutch cable housing must remain at a right angle to the bell housing. The stock retaining clip, located underneath the clutch fork cover, keeps the cable in the correct position.
Adjusting Clutch Cable Tension
The goal of adjusting the clutch cable is to put enough tension on it to keep the throwout bearing in light contact with the clutch diaphragm fingers, ensuring both proper clutch operation and long clutch life. Do not use the firewall adjuster to customize the pedal height or adjust where in the pedal travel the clutch engages or disengages. (Maximum Motorsports makes Clutch-Pedal Height Adjusters specifically designed to do that job correctly.)
Grasp the cable outer housing with one hand.
Pull it forward: toward the radiator and away from the firewall. This may take some effort. You need to remove all slack from the system, which forces the throwout bearing (by design) up against the pressure plate diaphragm.
If there's no gap between the large, round, flat end of the housing and the front face of the adjuster, thread the adjuster into the firewall until you can see a small gap.
While continuing to pull the outer cable housing away from the firewall, rotate the adjuster to thread it in or out of the firewall until the gap is about the thickness of a dime (0.050").
Confirming the Adjustment
The cable should have just enough tension that the pedal moves down 1/2 in. when you press it with 5-8 lb of force. If the pedal moves more than that, increase the cable tension by screwing the firewall adjuster further out of the firewall. If it takes more than 8 lb of force to move the pedal 1/2 in., decrease the cable tension by screwing the adjuster further into the firewall.
If the clutch won't disengage when you press the pedal to the floor, increase the cable tension by threading the adjuster out of the firewall.
If the throwout bearing chirps when the clutch pedal is depressed and with the engine running, there isn't enough tension on the cable.
Periodic Adjustment
A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing.
The concepts performed in all videos from Danny Johnson are for demonstration purposes only and are not guaranteed in any way as I am not a certified mechanic. The viewer holds the responsibility to research these procedures and perform them at his/her own risk.
Due to factors beyond the control of Danny Johnson, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Danny Johnson assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Danny Johnson recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Danny Johnson, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Danny Johnson. Always take proper safety precautions, including, but not limited to, wearing safety glasses, removing jewelry, properly securing the vehicle on jack stands, etc. - Авто та транспорт
This changed my life. I thought I was crazy hearing it chirp every now and then mostly when it first starts up. Thanks for the awesome video!
Braxton Bledsoe thanks for watching
Braxton Bledsoe yeah, most likely the bearing itself is gone. Here is my step by step how to on replacing it if you're interested ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
Braxton Bledsoe i had the same problem and it kept going on after whole new clutch and the noise kept on
I hear it every time unless i push my clutch twice its wierd ..!
I have a '03 Cobra and I am trying to adjust mine right now with the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. This explains it so well, thank you!!
Scott Livingston thanks for watching. Glad it was useful
Very helpful! I just bought my 03 Cobra and was having difficulty shifting into 3rd gear. Pretty sure adjusting the clutch is all it needed and about to test drive it in a bit.
Thank you very much, I was wondering what was that annoying sound and now that explained the issue I feel a lot better. Appreciate that you putted this video together, it helped me a lot. Thanks again
+Carlos Colon I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching
i have an 04 cobra....keep up the great informative videos man.
Thank you for making all the helpful videos, once again, your videos have helped me so much. 😁 Put a maximum motorsports quadrant and matching cable in today. 😁
Great video man, helped me really understand some of the problems and sounds I was hearing
Jeremy Rodominski I’m glad you found the video and that it was useful 👍🏼
Thank you for this video! I've been having the same exact problem on my 94 GT. I'll give the adjustment a try
did it work
Thank you very much for the insight! This was a huge help. I thought I had a bad throw out bearing after 11k miles with a new clutch, on a 1999 GT I just bought. Much appreciated!
Good video bro. I know a lot about vehicles,but always had hydraulic clutches..this cleared up a cpl questions I had.. Awesome.
Great info! I just had a clutch put in my pony too and now i know how to adjust it to get rid of the annoying chirping. Thanks alot Man!
omg lucky me I've looked everywhere for an answer.thanks.
Video was just what I was looking for ! My 87’ GT has the exact same chirping noise so I popped the dirt cover off the bellhousing and started it up and I watched the cable and fork rattle a little and the smallest amount of tension would kill the chirping noise. I don’t want to have to swap to an aftermarket quadrant and I think my plastic quadrant still works fine
Ricky Gendall The plastic ones tend to strip the plastic teeth over time, so as long as they are still good you should be fine. If not, the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster is very nice to have
Yes sir, I had a look yesterday at the pawl and quadrant and theres hardly any teeth left. On top of that, the cable in there now is stock from '87 so i went ahead and bought a 5.0resto cable adjuster and double hooked quadrant. Hope it works well, and thanks again for the awesome video man!
Over the years I've found that firewall adjusters are just more trouble than anything. I run a Fiore quadrant with an adjustable Steeda clutch cable straight to the transmission and make my adjustment at the clutch fork. This way, there is not a chance of the cable rubbing against the inside of the firewall adjuster and eventually snapping (which I have seen PLENTY of times). Love your vids bro!
Kris Ram I had a STEEDA adjustable cable at one time and also adjusted it from underneath, but the pedal would rattle until I got the freeplay elimination mod. I was running it so the t/o bearing wasn't spinning until engaged but didn't get full travel and got locked out a lot
Scrun Johnson I know the online debates go on FOREVER about this but the TO bearing is designed to spin at all times. If you look under a factory stock setup on a mustang that still utilizes the original plastic quadrant, the design to pull up on the clutch pedal is just that. To make sure the TO bearing is just barely resting on the pressure plate. If your pedal was rattling, that meant that the cable needed to be adjusted so that the TO bearing would make firm contact with the pressure plate. An old trick for aftermarket cables is to pour 2-3 cap full's of engine oil down inside the cable so that the travel and pedal effort is smooth. All in all, Timken bearings are my most favorite as they are made out of Kevlar and withstand a lot of abuse.
Kris Ram I agree. Good insight. When you remove a factory setup cable you need a pry bar to separate the clutch fork, so that's yet another sign it has pressure and spins constantly. Thank you for your comments. They help for others also reading through them for more insight
i was always told the squeaking was the throwout going bad but i guess its something fairly common on these cars, its been like that on both of mine but i always just assumed they were bad bc they were both beat on by previous owners (and myself lol) thank you for sharing this information!!
It certainly can be the bearing going bad, but it can also just be the throwout bearing as it lightly touches the diaphragm and fingers. Here is more information as well as an install for the clutch quadrant and adjuster ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well the squeaking isn’t super loud or anything it’s just kinda faint like the way you explained it in the vid so i’m thinking adjustable cable and everything should help me somewhat solve it
I really enjoy your videos, thank you. Very thorough as well on explanations on cause and effect on your topics. Really helps me with my 04 Cobra.
Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching! Very cool cobra.
Good explanation. The bearing should be spinning with clutch at all times. Reason being. Every car/truck/bike etc. in the world I've ever worked on that had a hydraulic clutch they all keep small preload on the bearing.
Yes, I agree. The shock factor going from 0-2,000+ rpm is not what it’s designed for. I run a small amount of preload.
Thanks for the vid!!! Helped a lot!
Gordo glad it helped out. Thanks for watching
Perfect just what I was looking for
Patron022 thanks for watching
Danny Johnson subd
Patron022 thanks 😉
Good vid. I have my adjuster set with the dime thickness gap between the cable and the face of the adjuster. Clutch engages at the high travel part of the pedal where the vid said low
I think if you turn it in it will engage closer to the floor. I’m having trouble with mine also engaging high
Omg for all this time I thought it was my timing belt being wet. But it was really that!
Brandon dsadasdas Glad it helped out. if it's a mustang you're going to have a timing chain vs belt anyhow.
super helpful thank you so much
Thank you. Just remember if you do have the throwout bearing touching the diaphragm fingers that it should be touching enough to spin, but not to be putting a lot of pressure on it
I have a BBK adjustable clutch cable, I cant turn the adjuster at the firewall unless I get some slack in the clutch cable by loosening it at the clutch fork
Mines is chirping alot louder now ,especially in drive tru's. When i bought my cobra a few months ago the chirp wasnt so loud. I bought a firewall adjuster and quadrant the week i got the car. Ill probably adjust it again tomorrow b4 work. You forgot to mention that u can adjust where your clutch engages with the fw adjuster and quadrant. I like mines engaging close to the floor.
Morbid Thrasher you're right. I started mention it at 6:22 and never finished. I completely covered it in the first video I made but a dump truck came up and ruined my video with noise and I started over again and forgot I didn't cover it again lol.
My theory is from wear and just usage the cable probably stretches a lil bit over time and there fore you hear a chirp?
I have the MM adjuster on my 03 Cobra and got the chirping at idle to go away, but now it’s doing it above about 2000 RPM while driving. Any recommendation for that? Tighten it even more?
Literally I have had that sound from my normal GT, I really thought it was a stupid throw out bearing, now it’s gotten so bad that the clutch pedal try’s to stick when I push it in.
Thanks alot
my car does that sound!!!!! i went to get it checked out and they said i should replace my throw out bearing and clutch. do i do it?
for anyone thats unsure. if its more than a slight chirp the tob might be bad. my clutch is not too old an it did this . i think ford has some pre load on tob from factory ..
Hi Danny. I just bought a Black 2003 Mach 1 basically stock with a few common mods like headers eibach susp, clutch cable etc. I think it’s a steeda adjustable clutch cable and hardware. My Question is … the clutch is SO HARD to push down. How can I make it easier and still keep everything right ie no squeal? Thanks!
I don’t know what clutch my car has and I have never changed it ,, it’s hard heavy but the gears go through excellent
I hear the chirping /rattle while driving it sounds pretty loud and I got a good amount of tension on it. New everything in clutch flywheel, clutch, pivot, TOB,fork ,new fluid, bbk adjustable fire wall and quadrant and cable
If it does not go away with light pedal (cable) tension, the throwout bearing is likely bad ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
Love the detail you put in the video 👍. I have a mystery situation (04 cobra twin disk clutch, MM clutch cable, FW adjuster and quadrant ) but 1st I want to ask you, how much slack do you allow between clutch cable and FW adjuster??
With the twin disks I hear they need an adjustable pivot ball stud and then even it is cut to a certain length for it to work. I use the oem factory cable since any adjustable one I have used in the past just seems to walk the nuts off
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I’m wondering when you adjust the tension on your clutch cable to firewall adjuster, how much space do you allow between the 2?
Not sure why but my cable keeps pulling away from a dime width to almost 1/4 inch within a weeks time and I have to adjust it frequently
Hey great video! Saved my life. My brand new ford performance tob makes a chirp/ faint rattle when i let off the clutch. Which method should i use to make the noise stop and put less wear on it???? Do i buy that kit? What do you recommend. You earned a sub. You're awesome.
Shitstang 02 I like the fiore brand clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster with a stock cable. That works well with my clutch at least. I would recommend a light pressure on the throwout bearing so it's just barely spinning, but doesn't have a lot of preload to heat up the bearing
Danny Johnson Ok i have an sr performance one installed. But i cant spin the firewall adjuster. Its too hard and i cant adjust it. Idk what i did wrong? So i just get it adjusted with with fire wall adjuster screwed all the way out ???
Danny Johnson I was referring to the freeplay correction thing???
Shitstang 02 what clutch cable are you running? The aftermarket ones allow you to remove a nut on the clutch fork side and I can explain what to do if that's the case
Danny Johnson yes there is 2 nuts on the end of the cable that goes in the clutch fork.
Mil gracias por su hayuda
When you installed your firewall adjuster did you have to make any adjustments to the gray rubbery seal material that’s on the inside of the car I am attempting it and I am having trouble with interference from that I would assume it’s noise heat vibration insulation.
I only remember the cable itself needing to be modified but it’s possible your car had some more insulation from the factory
Hey I know this video is a few years old but I’m hoping I could ask a few questions. I have a 2002 3.8L that I recently had a clutch put in. Just added a new adjustable cable and double hook quadrant. I am about to try and add my own diy freeplay eliminator to fix my issue. My pedal rattles and I mean BAD. So bad I have completely stopped driving the car it makes me wanna pull my hair out. You have been the only person to even address this problem in a video and I was just wondering. How bad did the pedal in your car rattle and are these cars known for that. I’m hoping this spring will finally put and end to it or I am afraid I will have to sell my favorite car. Also do I need the firewall adjuster or am I ok just to use and adjustable cable and new quadrant. Thanks.
Well, as the video shows, method 1 is to tighten the bearing up until it’s LIGHTLY spinning, and that would take most rattle away- but if you are trying for option 2 to have it not spin at all, the free play mod is your friend. On my car it just made an annoying tapping sound- small vibration to where barely touching the pedal would stop it.
I went to having the bearing always touching because I was not getting full travel (and not getting full clutch disengagement) so I’d get locked out of gears. Hope that helps
I’m assuming you’ve seen my freeplay mod video, but if not, here it is ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
If you tug on the cable at the firewall, do have any slack/gap between the firewall adjuster and the flat part of the cable sheathing?
Steve Slavik usually about the thickness of a dime
Throwout bearing noise fix now iknow thanks
Hi Danny, just wanted to say thanks for the videos you made regarding clutch replacement. It definitely made it easier to do, knowing what to look for. One question, I know there is a filler nut to add tranny fluid to the transmission, but can it also be added from the inside of the car at the top of the tranny when re installing the shifter?
Yes, you can do both. Add the 4 quarts in the shifter which is nice since you don’t lose any in the pump, or pump it in the side on the the side fill plug. It should overflow when it’s full and the car is level, but the tr3650 five speed asks to slightly under fill it. The t-56 is just 4 quarts and should overflow if the side plug is out
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for the information. Doing this kind of stuff with my son is great. He to owns a 03 cobra. You may know him, he sent you a blurb about the Sonic blue terminator used as a police car.
Is it possible to run a new cable without the firewall adjuster which has been a pain in the a to find without long wait times and my GT being down.
It is possible, but the replacement cables may be too long if you dont buy a factory cable (thats discontinued). I had the best luck with this one who uses the same company ford used for their cables ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.htmlsi=FYTM_dzLoktxD2fV
Hey Danny, I'm working on replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 96' Cobra. To remove the stock clutch cable from the firewall, do I need to disconnect it at the clutch fork first or can I just disconnect it under the dash & pull it out of the firewall to get it out of the way?
I would just disconnect it at the pedal and pull it through
My throwout bearing is squealing again smh and I maxed out the fire wall adjuster
Man I bought a new clutch kit from lmr and I now have reverse grind and 1st is hard to get into. Any info? Thanks bro your mach 1 is 🔥
It sounds like your clutch pedal is not getting the full travel. Does your kit have the adjustable cable, firewall adjuster, and Clutch quadrant?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah man got all three. Also got new clutch fork and ball pivot. My pops and I put everything the way it supposed to be. Triple checked everything
Same issues here
My cobra doesn't chirp like that it sequels. When I put the car in 1st gear then release the clutch and give it gas ill hear a loud squeal. I'm thinking its the bearings in the throw out bearing that are going bad. what you think? It only does it in 1st gear whenever I take off but its a loud squeal.
Franky Flores in
Que tal amigo, oye compré el chicote ajustable y el cuadrante pero aún no corta mi clutch, será que es necesario el ajustador de la pared de fuego?
Si, precise los dos parted para funcionar
Adjust your cable. If it keeps chirping your throwout bearing and fork need to be replaced along with the bolt that hits the throwout bearing. And just Incase if your cable is old replace it as well. These mustangs are a lot older now and need a lot of new parts don’t try to half ass these cars because they will just keep messing up. Do it right!
Thanks for the vid bro, my clutch has been shaking up and down making a weird noise ever since i had a new clutch installed. Also a few days ago my clutch got really tough to push in and wouldnt let me put in 1st gear and if i was in 1st, it would get stuck on Neutral and it would lock me out for the next gear. I then leave it for like 1 hour and then it lets me drive it. What do you think might be going on? I was told on forums to check firewall for obstruction but idk, now my mechanic says i need another clutch and i just had it installed 5 months ago. But i was learning how to drive stick the first 2-3 months of the new clutch so maybe i did wear it out. Please help, ill appreciate bro
Jose Martinez it sounds to me like it's possible that the throwout bearing may have burned up, or is getting too hot. My throw out bearing was too tight at one point and as I was taking a road trip to Las Vegas my clutch started to Stefan up on the pedal. If you have a firewall adjuster you can back the throwout bearing off a little bit as shown in the video.
Jose Martinez if you end up needing a new clutch because yours has been burned up when you were learning, I have a video series that will show you step-by-step from start to finish how to install a new clutch and throw out bearing. It might be a good idea just to watch these videos anyway so you know how it all works ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
Thank you bro, this helps out and well now ima try to adjust my cable
quick question for anyone. I have an 03 Gt and my clutch is short. meaning the "sweet spot" to engage it is very small/minimal. how do I Increase it??? On my previous 01 Gt it was way more easier and comfortable.
You will need to buy a clutch quadrant with multiple hook locations, and/or the firewall adjuster to help get it straight as shown in the video
Hey Danny how is it going? I enjoy watching your videos. I have a question for you. I just installed a new clutch kit, ford oem clutch cable, ford tb, ford pilot bearing & firewall adjuster. My transmission is making a whining noise while driving as if I have a supercharger but it goes away when I push in the clutch. What could be the problem? Could it be the clutch cable needs to be adjusted?
Yes, I would first start with the adjustment. If it’s touching constantly it needs to do that with very little force- just enough to spin the bearing (called preload). I would turn the adjuster clockwise (loosening tension on the cable) until you get to a point where barely touching the clutch pedal makes a chirping sound. If you have a chirping sound without touching the clutch as it sits in neutral it’s gone a little too far and you need to turn it counter clockwise to add more tension . If you can’t get it right you may need a clutch quadrant as well
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks a lot Danny you are the Man....I just subscribed👍
Tyrone Jenkins Welcome aboard 👍🏼
Whining sound from transmissions are cost by wear on the cluster shaft and input shaft teeth. A confirmation of this will be the noise going away in fourth gear. It will sound like a supercharger exactly like you mentioned. This is typically caused by fluid running low. The only fix for it as a rebuild on the transmission and to replace the cluster and input shaft. Keep your fluid level topped off and generally you can drive with the noise almost indefinitely. however once the weather gets bad enough you will shred the teeth on the input and cluster on a hard lunch
Hi Danny, I really like your videos! I have a question that I would appreciate if you could try to answer. I have tried to adjust the clutch on my 2000 mustang, and when I try to pull up the pedal like I heard your supposed to and hear a click, it did not click. After trying, I also have a bit of chirp now! I have the original adjusting mechanism, not an aftermarket cable, and I really need to know how to fix this. I would appreciate your help!
@@bobbyperl8955 an adjustable clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster is the best way. The factory ones strip being plastic Clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, cable install & Adjustment Ford Mustang 79-04 Cobra, GT, V6
ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you! Got the v6 as my first car, worked a lot to buy that car myself! I'm fixing a couple things, and I have to pay for the parts but luckily I have your videos to help! In a way you got me into these cars.
So I have a 98 svt cobra. Has the adjuster just like you have and quadrant. It has that chirping sound constantly and looks like a new clutch and tob in inspection port.
If I tighten it too much it will chirp while driving in gear. But just very slight pressure on the clutch pedal will make the sound go away. I mean like if you pushed it with your pinkie. Any suggestions
So it is almost there. You need to tighten the cable (turn firewall adjuster counter clockwise) just a hare more. If you don’t have enough travel left in the firewall adjuster to do that you need to put the clutch quadrant on the other hook (assuming there are 2 hooks) and start over again with adjusting it. In my opinion, the ford cable does this perfectly and if you have to put nuts on the end of the aftermarket clutch cable make sure to had several and some lock tite so it doesn’t come loose
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ill try that. So put a cut or washer where the cable hooks? It squeaks only until a very light touch of clutch. Same thing no matter how adjusted
@@Keepfight10 having the same squeak in gear off the clutch and neutral off the clutch until I apply a very small amount of pressure on the clutch pedal. Just did a new clutch, tob, pilot, and maximum motorsports cable and firewall adjuster so I'm gonna try to tighten the cable just a hair and hopefully that will make the squeaking stop lol
Hey danny, i just installed a mcleod quadrant and adjuster (same as fiore) on my 04 mach 1. I was wondering a few things, first how did you manage to drill the 2 extra mounting holes for the adjuster? i have barely enough room to reach the 2 factory holes. Also, did you use any spacers to center the quadrant? i seen that you used the white plastic spacer on the main shaft, do you need to put something on the secondary shaft as well to control side to side movement? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
If I remember correctly, the kit came with self-tapping screws, and I only did the bottom one and it’s been secure enough. I did add a spacer on the shaft, but to keep the pedal from chattering, I added the freeplay elimination mod (I’ll add a link below). Having the stock cable helped with the chatter as well
05GT_04Mach Freeplay mod ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you. Gonna try and get the last 2 screws into my firewall adjuster somehow. Will head to the hardware store and build a freeplay mod and grab some spacers for the quad. Your videos are extremely helpful!
I have a 94 mustang gt and the other day i took it out for a spin and it would pop out of 2nd on me. I see my cable going through the fire wall is that where i adjust it at. Its making a winding sound underneath my stick shift and pops out of 2nd when driving
Bert Ryan You may have more sever issues with the transmission than an adjustment will fix.
You’ll also need to buy a firewall adjuster (links in the description) to be able to adjust it
its probably the syncros ... good thing t5 trans is easy n cheap to rebuild
Hello, when I turn the car on it starts to chirp but once it warms up it goes away,, the transmission feels excellent the gears go through excellent,, is this chirping on start till it gets hot bad for the clutch ???
The throwout bearing is just barely contacting the clutch diaphragm fingers when you hear the chirp. It just needs a little more pressure
Mine lets out 2/3from the top. Hard to get into 1st and reverse. When i get it into reverse it will let out about 1/3 the way. The peddle is pretty stiff. Theres an aftermarket quadrant. Cable unknow. When moving it shifts fine. Any thoughts ?
Check which hook it’s on for the clutch quadrant. You probably need to start over by putting the firewall adjuster in the middle and snugging the clutch cable down first at the clutch fork
It has a stock looking cable with the white plastic cap in the firewall
So I recently bought a mach 1 with this firewall adjuster but the guy ajusted it and I started to here the throwout bearing noise which way should I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to stop hearing the throwout bearing???
cruzwtf Gaming so I’d turn it counter-clockwise until the chirping goes away (if that’s the sound you’re hearing). That would indicate the bearing is spinning but does not have a lot of load on it. Is that what kind of noise you hear?
Danny Johnson I hear the throwout bearing grinding no chirping all I hear when the clutch is out is haaeeehh
cruzwtf Gaming In that case, you may have a failing throwout bearing. If so, this is how to replace it and the clutch ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi6xQ5USpFNlQGOoQXboNgsM.html
Any chance this would form up a clutch pedal? I had a trans replaced and new clutch installed. Used factory cable, and now my clutch feels like a VW jetta Haha. Meaning there is like no force needed to press it down? I did the factory adjustment and the clutch let's out almost at the top of releasing it.
Sean Colon It should be easy to push the clutch in, but that all depends on the clutch as well. Many of the better clutches with higher clamping force face a stiffer pedal from the diaphragm fingers. If yours is soft enjoy it unless you lose clamping force and it slips
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage i appreciate the reply. it's a stage 2 clutch (non name brand) but it's really soft like I feel if I pressed it with 2 fingers it would go down. Went through a head ache of buying a used trans had it installed and it was shot, had to get another , and now good trans, new clutch and super soft pedal :-/.
02 mustang 3.8 swapped clutch ..chirps n ticks when driving when i lift the clutch pedal up to try n self adjust the tick goes away could it be a bad tob or clutch fork or do i need a firewall adjuster
I would try a firewall adjuster first
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage that's one part I didnt change and kept thinking I should..will update when possible, thanks for this video
Do u think more tension on clutch fork would help this chirp and for some reason i cant shift to third most times
yea, you burn the throw out up if it's always engaged.
Yeah, you need very light preload so it barely spins. A lot of people have too much pressure and burn them up.
I have a 1989 Ford Mustang and I replaced the cable last year and there’s some issues with it we’re it just doesn’t stay in place it just falls off and makes the clutch feel loose with no pressure please let me know how fix this hope to hear from you
If it’s an aftermarket cable with the nuts on the end you’ll need multiple nuts and even some lock tite to keep it from walking off
Thanks
Que tal amigo.
Si instalo este kit se elimina la contra de la cremallera? Es que no veo que venga en el kit. Y por último tu tienes algún vídeo donde expliques cómo instalarlo?
Saludos y muchas gracias.
PD. Deberías hacer vídeos en Español, hay mucho mercado en Latinoamérica.
Lamentablemente no tengo vídeos por instalarlo. Si tienes mucho vibraciones, puede ser el clutch fork o pívot ball. Te daré algunas links abajo ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/v-deo.html
Just installed one of these on my car and when I try to adjust it out to make it tighter my whole clutch cable wants to rotate with the adjuster and it’s very hard to turn. Any advice ?
I would see my install video to make sure it’s all right, but they can be hard to turn where you need pliers- or a trick I use is to disconnect the cable, make the adjustment, then reconnect
ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.html
how do ik if my TOB is out? i’ve replaced the clutch cable and it has a chirping sound when i press the clutch and let off , do i have to adjust it from the firewall? it also doesn’t go in gear when running but when off it does , please any advice??
It doesn’t sound like it’s getting full travel it it’s locking you out when running. What clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster do you have?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage a ford racing quadrant and a sr performance firewall cable u known find it when i bought the car
What if it's literally too hard to turn? Like I can't turn it either way. I have one similar to yours but is a little different looking. It almost seems like I need a tool to turn it maybe.
Sometimes you need a large pair of pliers. Otherwise, remove the cable from the clutch fork and adjust it and put it back on with the pry bar
I have an 03 cobra very difficult to get into 1st gear and reverse. Think it the clutch cable ?
It’s possible you’re not getting full travel on the clutch pedal
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage So how is that fixed do you know?
So I just bought my 97 cobra and it has this on it but it takes like 45lbs to push my clutch pedal in is that normal?
It can depend on if it's a stage 3 racing clutch, but typically, no. It could also be a throwout bearing seizing on the retainer sleeve causing drag
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ya it’s a stage 3
Hey Danny im a big fan of your channel i watch all your videos about the 99 04 cars! My clutch fork is too far to the right (towards the rear of the car) I've tried the firs walla adjuster and even a custom quadrant could I need an adjustable pivot ball for the clutch fork? My clutch is slipping is the problem thanks in advanve.
It sounds like the clutch is slipping itself, but not from the clutch being depressed. If the fork was sitting closer to the engine side, that would indicate its being engaged and could cause it to slip. It sounds like it’s time for a new clutch. I’ll put some links below
Clutch install ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
Pivot ball stud (I would not get an adjustable one unless you get a Mcloud RXT. People even have to trim the bolt on adjustable studs) ua-cam.com/video/q7iJDYIZB6M/v-deo.html
Clutch fork ua-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the clutch is brand new its a 26 spline and the input shaft on the transmission is a 26 spline the pressure plate is new the bearings are all new I greased everything and the flywheel is new. I'm lost.
When you tighten the adjuster is it supposed to loosen up any at all. I got the cable set up from American muscle. Bbk type. After I test drive it or go to the store I check it and it’s loose again
Daniel Lopez It should not do that. I bought the “micro click” one from fore and really like it because it only rotates and clicks in increments. You may want to put a dab of blue lock tite on the threads and then adjust it
Super glue or Teflon tape or just glue
Daniel Lopez thread locker (blue not red) on the threads. Back it out a little, apply the thread locker, then put it back where it was.
Oh ok koo. I found you on Instagram but wondering if you had a Facebook. Add me it’s Daniel Lopez on fb and tapoutred on insta
So my clutch pedal is higher then my brake pedal. About 3/4 inch higher. Is that normal for these cars. I have the 3.8 v6 with the t5 trans
Yes, ford staggered the pedals and even did a lower gas pedal for the cobra as I recall
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks danny i feel a million times better because for awhile now i thought maybe i did something wrong when i changed the clutch last.
Nice mach looks like mine lol, as a mechanic I can say I hate the tr3650 with a vengeance,
Why
How is your firewall adjuster so easy to move I can barely move mine
It might be how much tension is on the cable
Just got the bearings replaced on my cobra, but that chirp is still there? Is it alright to live with it or should I be adjusting it for it to go away
Andres Padilla It needs adjustment. You’ll need the firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant like you see in the video. You’ll want to slightly tighten the cable (turn adjuster counter clockwise) until the chirp barely goes away, which is putting a light load (preload) on the bearing OR turn the adjuster clockwise until the chirp goes away but then you’ll have a sloppy fish pedal and you’ll need to get the free play elimination mod.
Andres Padilla Freeplay elimination mod ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
Danny Johnson’s Garage alright man, wasn’t sure if I needed your exact thing but will do👍🏻much appreciated
I have a question. I have a bbk firewall adjust kit and cable. The nuts on the adjuster tranny side on the fork have to be all the way at the end as far as possible and the firewall adjust in pretty much all the way to get the clutch to engage further to the floor. If I put the nuts tighter and turn out the adjust on the firewall the clutch engages higher off the floor which I don’t like. Is this normal? It’s a pain in the ass because I barely have enough thread to put the jam nut on tight on the fork.
I don’t like any aftermarket cables, even the ford racing. The nuts back off too, so I got a ford OEM cable and run it with the firewall adjuster and the quadrant
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the reply. I figured out a way to have it tight and secure and engage exactly where I want it along with your spring mod. Thanks again Danny
@@jamesa6272 how
@@benignocepeda7720 Hey. I just replaced my clutch flywheel and everything else. I noticed the spring clip on the back of the fork was bent so the fork was probably surfing all over the pivot stud. So that might have been the reason why I was able to get more threads with the nut. BUT I also bought a “ford performance ” cable which in fact doesn’t have any ford logos on it and is made in Taiwan but pretty much the exact same design as the garbage bbk cable and had the same exact problem I posted above. The adjustable portion on the cable is not made long enough. How on earth they can make cables like that and sell them is beyond me. I would say just buy a stock ford cable like Danny Mentioned. With the new install I just did I had to reuse the bbk cable and had to use shallower nuts just to grab some threads on the cable. It’s literally right at the end of the adjustment piece.
hey there my friend ! question , i just installed a cable and quadrant. seems to work good only thing is the point where the car grabs the gear is pretty high up on the clutch pedal. is there any way i can make it to where it’s more closer to the floor that it grabs rather then higher up? thanks !!
If it’s too high up grabbing the cable needs to be slightly tighter with an adjuster. It doesn’t take much
ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage right i did forget to mention i installed the Steeda adjustable, clutch and quadrant
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage and i see you used the Maxium Motorsports one. on the steeda one the cable it’s self where it goes onto the fork is adjustable not sure if you are too familiar with the one i have but i couldn’t really find a video. unless that is how this steeda one is designed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage because i have it where there is no bearing noise as per your other video on how to adjust the cable with the red mach 1 you have. when i try to adjust mine from the firewall i physically cannot as it’s just too hard to spin now but like i said no issues just that the biting point is high and i would like to know if i can make it closer to the floor
I believe my quadrant is also a fiore (previous owner install) I dont have a chirp but my clutch releases very high. I have adjusted the firewall on the way clockwise and it made little to no difference. and when I adjusted it counterclockwise it just disengages it completely. its a brand new zoom clutch so I know it isn't bad. Any tips?
Cole Smith it sounds like it's just how the clutch is made, so you'd probably need to buy a STEEDA double hook quadrant with 2 places to attached the cable
Danny Johnson also, when I attached the clutch fork I had to pry that thing on it was really tight. maybe I need a longer cable?
Cole Smith is it a factory ford cable or one that has the stud on the end where you add the nut and choose where the cable ends?
Danny Johnson it is definitely not an adjustable one. And it not very long. so I imagine it is stock.
Cole Smith well, it's possible it's too short for the setup, but the factory cables stretch over time, so they only get longer. Mine is a factory ford cable with fiore clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster on a Mach 1 with the tr3650 transmission. It looks like yours is a 99 cobra? That would be the t45 Trans but if I'm mistaking and yours is 2001+ 5 speed it would be the tr3650 as well
Is it the same on 05’s
2005+ came with a hydraulic clutch, so I believe it’s all different
Which clutch quadrant would you recommend?
I really like the Fiore brand. I had the steeda double hook and it seemed one hook was too low and the other was too high. I had the best luck with a ford oem cable and the fiore quadrant
Danny Johnson thank you for the reply would you also recommend the fire wall adjuster that comes with the Fiore quadrant?
My pedal has slop at the top how do I fix that
If you mean it rattles, this may help ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
Bena tarde quisiera saber como puedo comprar un cuadrante igual con todo y su cable tengo un Mustang 1981 y quiero ponerle uno como el sullo me podria hayudar para saber donde lo puedo comprar en linea y que me lo puedan envia a Guatemala
No se si alguien mandara una por allá, pero esta película le mostrará como ponerlo ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.html
Yo nesesito las piezas
Porfa como puedo pedirlas
mine does not have a set screw? does youres?
Ricky Companion I’m pretty sure mine does not (unless it has one but can’t be used when adjusted to a certain length). Mine clicks into each position every 1/4 turn, so that’s nice
I have a 1996 4.6 GT 5speed and the clutch releases way out and not close too the floor is this the way it should be?
Ricky Dunivan it should grab about 2 inches off the floor and release about the same as you push the clutch in. It may have something to do with which brand of clutch and clutch quadrant you have as well
Scrun Johnson it releases almost all the way out
Ricky Dunivan do you have an adjustable clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster?
This car is bone stock I just got it a old lady owned it
Ricky Dunivan that's the way to get it! How many miles?
Mines engages way to high after and when I loosen it the pedal rattles
Pivot ball stud length may have a lot to do with it, and a firewall adjuster and quadrant may help
ua-cam.com/video/IceR-zPpvns/v-deo.htmlsi=nEQbkhizq6xJ5HFb
Quadrant ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.htmlsi=-qMoNsoixCVPV5Wb
How do u get rid of pedal rattle
The main thing is a new pivot ball (need to drop the trans for that, which I have videos on) ua-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/v-deo.html
In the mean time, clutch freeplay eliminaton mod ua-cam.com/video/3og_dCB9s-g/v-deo.html
so stock cant be adjusted?
Not at the firewall. It has a “self adjusting” plastic mechanism on the pedal you’ll see in this video. ua-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/v-deo.htmlsi=vz_U_17kbJT0HYTh
I'm having this same problem with my gt. However, whenever I tighten the cable using the firewall adjuster the chirp goes away but then when I do this it chirps when the car is driving and the clutch releases wayyyy too high maybe like half an inch to an inch from being fully released. I have the upr triple hook quadrant and firewall adjuster as well as the adjustable cable. It doesn't chirp when you give the cable slack but then it releases too soon and releases too high when you tighten it and it starts to chirp when you adjust it where it "should be" and it releases at the perfect spot. What do you think i should do??
Literally replaced my clutch thinking the throw out bearing was going bad cause of the chirping
Many have. Hopefully people share this video and know.
mine whines when its cold?
It may be time for a new throwout bearing soon
ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.htmlsi=Vi432VDZ92pEj_87
My 02 mustang gt constantly chirps no matter what I need to buy a adjuster
Caffinito yes, if you don't have one. If it continues to make noise the bearing itself can be bad and need to be replaced
Caffinito here is a step by step if you need to replace the throwout bearing ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
Danny Johnson I just replaced my clutch and bearings tho. The chirping goes away if I rest my foot on the clutch the slightest bit
Caffinito ok. Just out of adjustment then. A firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant should fix that right up
My mustang has the T-45 and I just put a steeda triax short throw. I notice a noise from 2nd to 3rd and my clutch fluctuates from real heavy to soft/light. The noise/ vibration from the shifter worry’s me, sounds like it’s not happy to be in gear. When I first go fro a cruise she’s solid till the t45 warms up then it’s tough to get into gears 1-3.
Did you transfer the plastic cup from the bottom of the old shifter?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I got a brand new one
Ok hope you see this comment I've looked everywhere home Depot Lowe's O'Reilly auto zone where did you find that clutch cable free play kit it's just a spring and 2 copper fittings American muscle don't carry it
gear heads 4 life I’ll have to pull it off and duplicate it. It’s just a spring and a mount that has a hole in it for the clutch cable to slide into
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok thank you
How do you adjust the idol in the car?
Brandon dsadasdas with it being electronic you'll need a hand held tuner to set the desired RPM. You can also (on some aftermarket throttle bodies) adjust the screw that stops the throttle Body from closing all the way- however- the car will likely throw a check engine code cause it's idling higher than its supposed to. I can get my tuner and make a video soon
Thanks so much!
The chirping never really stopped.
+Latnlvr do you have a firewall adjuster and a clutch quadrant?
My gt clutch pedal is killing me
is it a stiff aftermarket clutch?
The original oem with 130,000 miles, i think i need a new clutch kit
Cody Koala Your throwout bearing is likely dragging on the retainer sleeve. When you’re ready for a new clutch, please see my step by step video series ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi6xQ5USpFNlQGOoQXboNgsM.html
Thank you for your support
Cody Koala no problem. Hit me up if you have any questions. Done this many many times
This was my first car in high school it was a v6 lmao I remember having to do 3 clutch kits because I never looked into adjusting it I figured fords "amazing engineered self adjusting quadrant" would take care of itself but I was wrong the last clutch kit i did was because the release bearing exploded and dug itself into the fork and throughout its life time it would squeal every where I went i havent driven the car for over 2 years now I'm wanting to get it running again i wish ford weren't such cheap basterds they should have installed hydraulic units like everyone else did back in the day
If you decided to change the throwout bearing/clutch check out my video ua-cam.com/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I've done it thrice but theres nothing wrong with a refresher 👍
If you adjust it so it is putting pressure on the bearing it will damage the bearing. It needs to have a bit of play
It is designed to spin constantly, so it’s okay to have constant pressure as long and it’s not a lot. Enough to spin it, not enough to have excessive load.