Links to the parts and tools I used in this video: OEM Ford Cable:amzn.to/2Z9LAnb You can put a Ford cable on any aftermarket quadrant or firewall adjuster. You will have to modify the cable to go into the firewall adjuster. UPR Quadrant:amzn.to/2TbLojk UPR Firewall Adjuster:amzn.to/3bFCUYl Maximum Motorsport: www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl... Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
This is right from Maximum Motorsport's website: Ford equipped most Fox and all SN95 Mustangs with a self-adjusting mechanism designed to maintain proper clutch cable tension at all times. As the clutch disc wears, the mechanism automatically adjusts the cable tension so the clutch continues to operate correctly through its entire life. A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing. The stock self-adjuster consists of a plastic quadrant/pawl gear assembly. The plastic wears out over time, but aftermarket pressure plates with higher clamp loads speed up that process. Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. The solution is to replace the plastic mechanism with long-lasting metal parts. The typical replacement is a non-adjustable, aluminum quadrant. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! You must replace it with some method of adjusting cable tension. Maximum Motorsports does this with an assembly called a firewall adjuster, which lets you easily adjust cable tension from under the hood of your Mustang. To compensate for normal clutch disc wear, you'll need to adjust the cable tension periodically. As the clutch friction disc wears and gets thinner, the end of the diaphragm fingers touching the throwout bearing push on the bearing, applying more and more load to the cable and increasing its tension. This starts to disengage the clutch, leading to clutch slippage. Keep up with adjusting your Mustang's clutch cable to maintain good performance and avoid premature clutch disc wear.
@@RepairGeek I just noticed that the cable bracket in the engine bay does not get right on mine will this effect anything? From what it looks like to me it just keeps it away from the header...
great video man thanks for the easy to follow instructions, i wish you couldve videoed the adjuster removal bc thats what im having trouble with. i went to the pull apart and got a used plastic quadrant to use while my after market one is being shipped. unfortunately i cant figure out how to install the plastic adjuster
Great video very well done. I would suggest you put the Maximum Motorsports name in the title because I came here on a whim while searching for an MM specific adjustable cable install and almost passed it up.
My 03 cobra engages very close to the floor and is very easy to stall. Only 10,784 miles on the car and have had the new kit in the garage for 3 weeks now. Wish I had a lift. Did one in my driveway years ago on an 04 Gt and didn't have to remove the seat. Tight fit for sure but it's doable
Wanted to point a misconception in this video: - The firewall adjuster isn’t used to achieve pedal height, it is strictly for clutch cable tension to achieve 3-5 lbs of pressure for the clutch pedal to move 1/2”. Your pedal height will be determined IF you use a adjustable pivot ball stud in the transmission bell housing to setup up the angle of your clutch fork. Maximum Motorsports has now updated their instructions to state that 3-5 lbs of pressure is needed to hear the “clink” of the quadrant coming off of its stop.
Good point I've got a 01 Bullitt with 39k miles with the factory quadrant still clutch peddle bites level with brake peddle and clutch peddle is up really high thinking i need to see if factory quadrant is teeth are worn out?
Ok but somebody tell me if the TOB should be riding on the pressure plate with preload or gapped slightly, my clutch slips when the cable is loose and bearing is off the pp and the TOB makes aloud clicking noise and you can feel it in the shifter when it is preloaded I am at a loss and don’t want to redrop trans please help
need help! restoring a 1989 and the clutch stays at the floor would that be caused by the spring on the quadrant shown at 4:36?? if so what is that called and where to find it? Thanks in advance!
Hello, are you putting pre-load on the throwout bearing in this application? Many conflicting reports online. Ford seems to call for preload on the throwout bearing so that it's actually riding on the clutch fingers. Makes no sense to me, seems like it would lead to premature TB wear. What do you do?
Talked to Maximum because I was wondering the same thing. According to them this TB is an angular design meaning it can handle small thrust loads. So the TB should be touching the pressure plate. The TB and pressure plate should be spinning at the same rate all the time.
This is from MM website: Ford equipped most Fox and all SN95 Mustangs with a self-adjusting mechanism designed to maintain proper clutch cable tension at all times. As the clutch disc wears, the mechanism automatically adjusts the cable tension so the clutch continues to operate correctly through its entire life. A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing. The stock self-adjuster consists of a plastic quadrant/pawl gear assembly. The plastic wears out over time, but aftermarket pressure plates with higher clamp loads speed up that process. Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. The solution is to replace the plastic mechanism with long-lasting metal parts. The typical replacement is a non-adjustable, aluminum quadrant. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! You must replace it with some method of adjusting cable tension. Maximum Motorsports does this with an assembly called a firewall adjuster, which lets you easily adjust cable tension from under the hood of your Mustang. To compensate for normal clutch disc wear, you'll need to adjust the cable tension periodically. As the clutch friction disc wears and gets thinner, the end of the diaphragm fingers touching the throwout bearing push on the bearing, applying more and more load to the cable and increasing its tension. This starts to disengage the clutch, leading to clutch slippage. Keep up with adjusting your Mustang's clutch cable to maintain good performance and avoid premature clutch disc wear.
@@RepairGeekInteresting. I did a TR3650 manual swap into my 2008 Crown Victoria using an MM cable (the best in the biz) and their firewall adjuster, along with a Steeda quadrant. Just couldn't bring myself to keep the TB riding on the pressure plate (I hadn't read this yet), so I put maybe 1/16th an inch of clearance. It seems to work fine, I will just have to remember to stay on the adjuster and keep tension on the cable as the clutch wears. Seems like without the OEM Mustang "self adjuster", there would be no need for constant contact between the TB and the pressure plate. Depending on how things go for the first few miles, I may adjust it so the TB is up against the pressure plate as you state. Thank you for the responses, love your videos!
Love the video. I’ve got an ‘01 GT that I’m looking to do these upgrades on however Ford has discontinued the OEM cable. My current cable is still working fine. Curious if you’d still recommend replacing the cable or if I should keep it and just install a MM quadrant and firewall adjuster.
Could a problem shifting be because of the quadrant and/or cable. Had trouble shifting one night, then next day everything seemed to be okay again? I'm worried it's going to fail on me again.
@@ltlpaa2973 did you ever get this issue sorted? 2000 gt with the T45 here, going through the same thing-3rd gear seems noise going from 2nd to 3rd shifts
Hi this is unrelated but does this gen mustang have a low oil pressure light? My oil pressure sending unit is broken and I’m worried that I actually have low oil pressure. Just bought the car too
Thanks for the great video! There's a pretty heavy clutch in my 04... basically an anti theft device as the average thief wont be able to drive it with no practice. The cable just straight up snapped in half! Is that the typical failure? Looks like the quadrant has already been replaced though... perhaps it was adjusted too tight? I'm thinking about installing a hydraulic clutch if this new cable doesnt last... hopefully the old one was just frayed and that's why it was so darn stiff. I got a teflon lined BBK this time so its smoooth. Also my friend swears an 04 is supposed to have a hydraulic clutch stock. Is he right?! Because somebody swapped an old T45 into this car instead of the correct TR3650 it turns out. It drives great. But the digital odometer and speedo doesnt register due to DTC for vehicle speed sensor low voltage. It looks like the T45 has a different style sensor tho. I'd really like to fix that if anybody knows how to do this?! How do I get the old T45 sensor to interface with the 04 ECU/dash? Sorry I know it's off topic but I cant find this answer anywhere.
Your cable snapped because you are using cheap cables. BBK is junk as well. You will have the same issues with time. Spend the coin buy the MM setup and you won't have problems. I literally removed the stock setup in this video. It's not hydraulic. They went to hydraulic in 05+. If you have a code for low voltage, have you inspected the wiring going to the sensor? A broken wire or poor connection would cause a low voltage concern. Also every manual mustang from 99-10 uses the same sensor. The only way that I could see that you have a sensor issue is if your transmission is pre 99 because 99+ all use the same sensor.
@@RepairGeek this is great info! That's what I mean I think it's a pre 99 trans. Its got the sensor with a gear instead of the magnet. Also I believe it's got a stage 3 clutch according to previous owner. Probably just such a heavy spring
Links to the parts and tools I used in this video:
OEM Ford Cable:amzn.to/2Z9LAnb
You can put a Ford cable on any aftermarket quadrant or firewall adjuster. You will have to modify the cable to go into the firewall adjuster.
UPR Quadrant:amzn.to/2TbLojk
UPR Firewall Adjuster:amzn.to/3bFCUYl
Maximum Motorsport: www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl...
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Finally someone explained the cable tension properly for peddle engagement.. helpful video thank you
This is right from Maximum Motorsport's website:
Ford equipped most Fox and all SN95 Mustangs with a self-adjusting mechanism designed to maintain proper clutch cable tension at all times. As the clutch disc wears, the mechanism automatically adjusts the cable tension so the clutch continues to operate correctly through its entire life.
A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing.
The stock self-adjuster consists of a plastic quadrant/pawl gear assembly. The plastic wears out over time, but aftermarket pressure plates with higher clamp loads speed up that process. Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. The solution is to replace the plastic mechanism with long-lasting metal parts.
The typical replacement is a non-adjustable, aluminum quadrant. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! You must replace it with some method of adjusting cable tension. Maximum Motorsports does this with an assembly called a firewall adjuster, which lets you easily adjust cable tension from under the hood of your Mustang. To compensate for normal clutch disc wear, you'll need to adjust the cable tension periodically.
As the clutch friction disc wears and gets thinner, the end of the diaphragm fingers touching the throwout bearing push on the bearing, applying more and more load to the cable and increasing its tension. This starts to disengage the clutch, leading to clutch slippage. Keep up with adjusting your Mustang's clutch cable to maintain good performance and avoid premature clutch disc wear.
@@RepairGeek I just noticed that the cable bracket in the engine bay does not get right on mine will this effect anything? From what it looks like to me it just keeps it away from the header...
Tight’ not right...
great video man thanks for the easy to follow instructions, i wish you couldve videoed the adjuster removal bc thats what im having trouble with. i went to the pull apart and got a used plastic quadrant to use while my after market one is being shipped. unfortunately i cant figure out how to install the plastic adjuster
Great video very well done. I would suggest you put the Maximum Motorsports name in the title because I came here on a whim while searching for an MM specific adjustable cable install and almost passed it up.
Please, buy clutch pedal relocation bracket from MMS and try to install and adjust. I wonder to see your result!
Very informative, just bought this for my 03 Mach1.
Bought same kit. My quadrant didn't come with spacers. Wonder why? had to make trip to lowes for 1/2 washers.
The pedal cover part lol
🤣
Lol
Did you end up using the widget spacer?
My 03 cobra engages very close to the floor and is very easy to stall. Only 10,784 miles on the car and have had the new kit in the garage for 3 weeks now. Wish I had a lift. Did one in my driveway years ago on an 04 Gt and didn't have to remove the seat. Tight fit for sure but it's doable
What size are the washers ? My quadrant didn't come with any
I did the dime method and still won’t shift smooth. 😢. Help help help.
Motorcycle clutch cable lube works great
When you first threaded the firewall adjuster in how far did you thread it in?
Wanted to point a misconception in this video:
- The firewall adjuster isn’t used to achieve pedal height, it is strictly for clutch cable tension to achieve 3-5 lbs of pressure for the clutch pedal to move 1/2”. Your pedal height will be determined IF you use a adjustable pivot ball stud in the transmission bell housing to setup up the angle of your clutch fork. Maximum Motorsports has now updated their instructions to state that 3-5 lbs of pressure is needed to hear the “clink” of the quadrant coming off of its stop.
Good point I've got a 01 Bullitt with 39k miles with the factory quadrant still clutch peddle bites level with brake peddle and clutch peddle is up really high thinking i need to see if factory quadrant is teeth are worn out?
@@jasonthorogood Its more than likely that its worn out. It’s plastic and over 20 years old so it’s passed it’s service life
Is the firewall adjuster need for this job? I have a new cable and new quadrant but no adjuster
Yes the adjuster is 100% required.
Ok but somebody tell me if the TOB should be riding on the pressure plate with preload or gapped slightly, my clutch slips when the cable is loose and bearing is off the pp and the TOB makes aloud clicking noise and you can feel it in the shifter when it is preloaded I am at a loss and don’t want to redrop trans please help
need help! restoring a 1989 and the clutch stays at the floor would that be caused by the spring on the quadrant shown at 4:36?? if so what is that called and where to find it? Thanks in advance!
If you have a stock quadrant that's plastic the teeth may be stripped, your cable could be stretched, or it's way out of adjustment.
Hello, are you putting pre-load on the throwout bearing in this application? Many conflicting reports online. Ford seems to call for preload on the throwout bearing so that it's actually riding on the clutch fingers. Makes no sense to me, seems like it would lead to premature TB wear. What do you do?
Talked to Maximum because I was wondering the same thing. According to them this TB is an angular design meaning it can handle small thrust loads. So the TB should be touching the pressure plate. The TB and pressure plate should be spinning at the same rate all the time.
This is from MM website:
Ford equipped most Fox and all SN95 Mustangs with a self-adjusting mechanism designed to maintain proper clutch cable tension at all times. As the clutch disc wears, the mechanism automatically adjusts the cable tension so the clutch continues to operate correctly through its entire life.
A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing.
The stock self-adjuster consists of a plastic quadrant/pawl gear assembly. The plastic wears out over time, but aftermarket pressure plates with higher clamp loads speed up that process. Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. The solution is to replace the plastic mechanism with long-lasting metal parts.
The typical replacement is a non-adjustable, aluminum quadrant. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! You must replace it with some method of adjusting cable tension. Maximum Motorsports does this with an assembly called a firewall adjuster, which lets you easily adjust cable tension from under the hood of your Mustang. To compensate for normal clutch disc wear, you'll need to adjust the cable tension periodically.
As the clutch friction disc wears and gets thinner, the end of the diaphragm fingers touching the throwout bearing push on the bearing, applying more and more load to the cable and increasing its tension. This starts to disengage the clutch, leading to clutch slippage. Keep up with adjusting your Mustang's clutch cable to maintain good performance and avoid premature clutch disc wear.
@@RepairGeekInteresting. I did a TR3650 manual swap into my 2008 Crown Victoria using an MM cable (the best in the biz) and their firewall adjuster, along with a Steeda quadrant. Just couldn't bring myself to keep the TB riding on the pressure plate (I hadn't read this yet), so I put maybe 1/16th an inch of clearance. It seems to work fine, I will just have to remember to stay on the adjuster and keep tension on the cable as the clutch wears. Seems like without the OEM Mustang "self adjuster", there would be no need for constant contact between the TB and the pressure plate. Depending on how things go for the first few miles, I may adjust it so the TB is up against the pressure plate as you state. Thank you for the responses, love your videos!
Great video man! Glad i did my research and ordered this kit!
Love the video. I’ve got an ‘01 GT that I’m looking to do these upgrades on however Ford has discontinued the OEM cable. My current cable is still working fine. Curious if you’d still recommend replacing the cable or if I should keep it and just install a MM quadrant and firewall adjuster.
I'd keep it if you can. I wish I had bought 2 of these cables now. :/
What size are the bolts needed for the fire wall adjuster
I think 5mm that comes with the kit
Great job best video by far
Could a problem shifting be because of the quadrant and/or cable. Had trouble shifting one night, then next day everything seemed to be okay again? I'm worried it's going to fail on me again.
Could the problem be in the shifting linkage instead?
@@ltlpaa2973 did you ever get this issue sorted? 2000 gt with the T45 here, going through the same thing-3rd gear seems noise going from 2nd to 3rd shifts
Could a wore out clutch cable cause slight chattering while clutch is engaging?
No that's either clutch or flywheel.
@@RepairGeek I gotcha. Just had a new clutch put in and he told me the flywheel looked great. 🤷♂️
@@christopherholden4024 do you have a T45 as well I’m betting ?
@@rileydines 3650
@@christopherholden4024 my t45 has a chatter in 3rd and 2nd
Can you purchase the widget as you called it separately from a hardware store?
No idea. I'd just call maximum motorsport and see if they would sell you one.
Did you end up securing the cable somewhere in the engine bay so it won't touch the headers or something like the power steering pump?
I zip tied it to the frame somewhere. Obviously don't kink it.
Hi this is unrelated but does this gen mustang have a low oil pressure light? My oil pressure sending unit is broken and I’m worried that I actually have low oil pressure. Just bought the car too
No just a oil gauge and they never really work the greatest
The only part I needed help with was releasing it from the pedal🙃
I broke 2 cheap Chinese cables I got a ford oem and steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster it’s way smoother
Great video gonna do my 2000 GT now
Could you tell me the size of the washers used ?
They came in the kit.
@@RepairGeek I know I bought the kit a while back and lost them that's why I asked
@@christopherchristman2437 sorry bud. Don't remember. MM does not list the size in the instructions either.
Thanks for the great video! There's a pretty heavy clutch in my 04... basically an anti theft device as the average thief wont be able to drive it with no practice. The cable just straight up snapped in half! Is that the typical failure? Looks like the quadrant has already been replaced though... perhaps it was adjusted too tight?
I'm thinking about installing a hydraulic clutch if this new cable doesnt last... hopefully the old one was just frayed and that's why it was so darn stiff. I got a teflon lined BBK this time so its smoooth. Also my friend swears an 04 is supposed to have a hydraulic clutch stock. Is he right?! Because somebody swapped an old T45 into this car instead of the correct TR3650 it turns out. It drives great. But the digital odometer and speedo doesnt register due to DTC for vehicle speed sensor low voltage. It looks like the T45 has a different style sensor tho. I'd really like to fix that if anybody knows how to do this?! How do I get the old T45 sensor to interface with the 04 ECU/dash? Sorry I know it's off topic but I cant find this answer anywhere.
Your cable snapped because you are using cheap cables. BBK is junk as well. You will have the same issues with time. Spend the coin buy the MM setup and you won't have problems. I literally removed the stock setup in this video. It's not hydraulic. They went to hydraulic in 05+.
If you have a code for low voltage, have you inspected the wiring going to the sensor? A broken wire or poor connection would cause a low voltage concern. Also every manual mustang from 99-10 uses the same sensor. The only way that I could see that you have a sensor issue is if your transmission is pre 99 because 99+ all use the same sensor.
@@RepairGeek this is great info! That's what I mean I think it's a pre 99 trans. Its got the sensor with a gear instead of the magnet. Also I believe it's got a stage 3 clutch according to previous owner. Probably just such a heavy spring
My BBK cable snapped about six months after clutch rebuild smh
I have a 2002 mustang and has an after market clutch.
Definitely take the time to oil the cable!!!!
Wow
Is the true on the oil. Lol 😆👍
What size washers are those. Mine doesn’t have washers and I need to add them