Next time you mount something through a cored substrate that will be underwater or frequently exposed to water, over drill the hole by 1/4”, fill with thickened epoxy, then drill your 1” hole through the epoxy. The extra labor involved is about 20 minutes. You mounted it in a way that will eventually allow water to reach the core of the transom.
Thank you for this vid, and thank you for the comments from the viewers. I’ll. Be doing this to my skiff and I’ve already removed the old drain tubes with new drain tubes, 5200, and a flaring tool en route for delivery. I’ll be saturating the wood core with epoxy before installing the drain tube, and I’ll also warm the drain tube with a heat gun before applying final flaring torque. The core was surprisingly dry for a 1985 Privateer 16’ CC Bay, however, I wish they over bored the hole back then and used the thickened epoxy method to create an epoxy barrier between the outer elements and wood core.
works as advertised and has another feature: you can use leftover tubing by adding a flair. I used the tool to install two drains this morning. A couple of notes. I put a small coating of wax (Johnson's Paste Wax) as lubricant in the inside of the brass tube. Old time flaring tools did that to help set a proper flair. I used 3M 5200 fast set as a sealant. Be sure and clean tools ASAP or you'll never get it off. I had to really "crank" on the wrench (I'm 76). You may want a breaker bar to do the last bit. As for the other feature: I had some pieces of brass tubing left over. I have another hole that could use the brass tubing. I turned one end of the flaring tool around, flat side to the brass. The other end went into the brass tube to form a flair. I tightened the nut with the bolt in a bench vise and was able to form a perfect flair on the left-over brass tubing. So I can use that in the other hole on my boat. I couldn't be more pleased with the flaring tool.
I used a 3/4 inch drill bit and taped a piece of sandpaper maybe 150 grit cant remember and wrapped it around the spade part. This spins around only one way. Either way and cleans out the drain and keeps you from chewing up the outer edge. The outside i just lightly sanded by hand to clean it up.
The best thing to do is go to my main page and look at an option for the boat, transom and floor rebuild series and you can watch them in order. Thanks and please subscribe!
I'm about to do my boat. Why wouldn't you want the factory on the outside. To me that only makes since so there is no problems. If the outside dosent leak then the inside wouldn't matter screw looks. I want a boat that floats. Anyone else have a opinion on this. Thanks. I'm a first time boat owner.
Because the plug is inserted from the inside of the boat, it is easier to insert it when it is place factory side inside the boat. Sharp edges inhibit the insertion of the plug.
Did you have any issues with a gap on the outside as you did on the inside? It would seem the angle would be the same? I am getting ready to do this to my new build was was worried about a gap on both sides. Thanks
You should heat the end of the tube til it’s cherry red, then cool it in warm water. That will soften the brass, so it will flare easier, and the inside of tube won’t crack.
A much more accurate way to drill the hole is to use a pilot bit from the outside. Use a long bit 6-8 inches about 3/16ths will allow you to line your drain up. Now when you come inside to counter drill your spade bit will have some meat to bite into (a hole saw is a better choice but still drill from both sides guided by your pilot hole) and not jump around when the spade bit cuts through the thin layer. I much prefer a bronze coupling (purpose built) used in quality boats instead of a tube with flange nuts on both sides. Epoxied in the external threads give a good bond and in use a threaded plug gives a positive seal. I have seen the rubber compression plugs used in the tube version fail when the center threaded rod corroded away. The plug falls apart....not good.
Having just replaced a transom and drilled what felt like 50 holes.... I used a drilling jig which ensured every single hole was perfectly aligned on both sides. Well worth it vs. eyeballing and hoping you're going to be close enough. Especially when needing to hit transom brackets, etc. on the other side. When tackling splashwell drains/motor mount holes, I drilled a pilot through both sides and then used a hole saw. If you use a spade and catch the edge of aluminum or glass, it will jump a little potentially making a mess. If drilling the transom on the bench and wanting perfect holes, you can't beat a forsner bit. As douglas mentioned also - definitely worth the time to fill over-drilled holes with epoxy and drill to size after cure. Thank for sharing this video - even though old - it's invaluable.
Thx for this. I've got leaking drain plug on a fiberglass deck boat. Alot of work I have to do. On the inside the hole around plug is bigger and looks hollow around the plug. Doesn't leak alot but its enough. Thought about knocking it out cause its not flared on the inside cause its not quite long enough to flare it, besides, the hole is bigger and it slightly loose. Maybe use some marine adhesive like u got or use some fiberglass resin and fill in the hole alittle on the inside. Ive never had experience in fixing boats and so far I've lined quite a few places with resin and matting to stop the bigger leaks on the bottom. This is beginning to be my worst nightmare. Its 16ft by 8ft in size and is HEAVY. I ask myself how I got myself in this situation.
Bobby, I wished I had better news for you, but you appear to have a rotten transom. It only gets expensive from here on out. If you do opt to go forward with the repair, I got videos to cover a full rebuild. Please subscribe! Thanks for your comments.
About the 16:30 mark where you are putting in your plug sleeve. What if a guy bored that hole out just enough to allow a layer of that Kevlar to fit wrapped around that sleeve and epoxied in, with a nice 4x4 square behind the flare? Over engineering? I ask as I have always noticed cracking around plug and bolt aeras as one would expect. I can eliminate tons of the other holes, but the plug might be important 🤏😜 **I didn't read the comment below before asking lol
Why not smear thickened epoxy on the inside of the hole, coat the drain tube in wax, then press the tube into place (without cutting or flaring). After the epoxy sets, remove the tube and clean up any excess epoxy. Then coat with PL and flare. With the method you used you're trusting your entire transom job to a few cents worth of PL. Just my $.02
I gotcha. Keep in mind that hole is what destroys the transom. It’s the weakest link in the chain. If done wrong, all your hard rebuild efforts are for nothing.
Good call! I’ll be doing this again on the Glastron here in a month. That boat you see in this series is still going strong years later! Please subscribe.
@@NUrukhai it flares the other side. So basically it makes a lip on the other side and pulls it together tight. If not it would just be glued in and would leak. It will sweal up the other end and make it tight. There cheap on Amazon.
At 8:00 you say to round the edge of the glass you are going to flare a drain plug into, that's not how it works, it's a flare tool to flare the plug onto a flat surface. PL products have no place on a boat ever.
@@michaelromer2016 Great Video. On my dusky some idiot just drilled a hole in the transom and exposed the core. I had to fill a section of the transom around the drain hole. I installed the tube as in the video after and it turned out great. The tubing cutter worked well but left a camber on the tube I had to grind off anyway. Thanks
Next time you mount something through a cored substrate that will be underwater or frequently exposed to water, over drill the hole by 1/4”, fill with thickened epoxy, then drill your 1” hole through the epoxy. The extra labor involved is about 20 minutes. You mounted it in a way that will eventually allow water to reach the core of the transom.
Thanks for your comments! Good thing I used marine plywood!
Exactly, eventually it will rot, does not matter what plywood.
@@michaelromer2016 Still rots
@@Fluid36 We won’t be alive when that happens.
@@michaelromer2016 You sure it will last that long?
Thank you for this vid, and thank you for the comments from the viewers. I’ll. Be doing this to my skiff and I’ve already removed the old drain tubes with new drain tubes, 5200, and a flaring tool en route for delivery. I’ll be saturating the wood core with epoxy before installing the drain tube, and I’ll also warm the drain tube with a heat gun before applying final flaring torque. The core was surprisingly dry for a 1985 Privateer 16’ CC Bay, however, I wish they over bored the hole back then and used the thickened epoxy method to create an epoxy barrier between the outer elements and wood core.
works as advertised and has another feature: you can use leftover tubing by adding a flair. I used the tool to install two drains this morning. A couple of notes. I put a small coating of wax (Johnson's Paste Wax) as lubricant in the inside of the brass tube. Old time flaring tools did that to help set a proper flair. I used 3M 5200 fast set as a sealant. Be sure and clean tools ASAP or you'll never get it off. I had to really "crank" on the wrench (I'm 76). You may want a breaker bar to do the last bit. As for the other feature: I had some pieces of brass tubing left over. I have another hole that could use the brass tubing. I turned one end of the flaring tool around, flat side to the brass. The other end went into the brass tube to form a flair. I tightened the nut with the bolt in a bench vise and was able to form a perfect flair on the left-over brass tubing. So I can use that in the other hole on my boat. I couldn't be more pleased with the flaring tool.
I used a 3/4 inch drill bit and taped a piece of sandpaper maybe 150 grit cant remember and wrapped it around the spade part. This spins around only one way. Either way and cleans out the drain and keeps you from chewing up the outer edge. The outside i just lightly sanded by hand to clean it up.
Not a bad idea! Please subscribe!
I can’t hurry up and wait to go ahead and stop!
I use to say hurry up and wait a lot!
I need to replace these tubes in my boat, they were split by the original installer. How do you remove them without damaging the exist hole?
I thought the fitting came with two rubber o-rings too?
Great videos, but wished you put the number of the episode in the front of the title so it is easier to find in sequential order.
The best thing to do is go to my main page and look at an option for the boat, transom and floor rebuild series and you can watch them in order. Thanks and please subscribe!
I'm about to do my boat. Why wouldn't you want the factory on the outside. To me that only makes since so there is no problems. If the outside dosent leak then the inside wouldn't matter screw looks. I want a boat that floats. Anyone else have a opinion on this. Thanks. I'm a first time boat owner.
Because the plug is inserted from the inside of the boat, it is easier to insert it when it is place factory side inside the boat. Sharp edges inhibit the insertion of the plug.
Did you have any issues with a gap on the outside as you did on the inside? It would seem the angle would be the same? I am getting ready to do this to my new build was was worried about a gap on both sides. Thanks
throw a torch on the end before you flare it and quench it in water then install and flare . helps prevent the brass tube from splitting
Great idea! Please hit that subscribe button!
You should heat the end of the tube til it’s cherry red, then cool it in warm water. That will soften the brass, so it will flare easier, and the inside of tube won’t crack.
no, so much no
dont have to get it red just heat it a bit and then quench it
A much more accurate way to drill the hole is to use a pilot bit from the outside. Use a long bit 6-8 inches about 3/16ths will allow you to line your drain up. Now when you come inside to counter drill your spade bit will have some meat to bite into (a hole saw is a better choice but still drill from both sides guided by your pilot hole) and not jump around when the spade bit cuts through the thin layer. I much prefer a bronze coupling (purpose built) used in quality boats instead of a tube with flange nuts on both sides. Epoxied in the external threads give a good bond and in use a threaded plug gives a positive seal. I have seen the rubber compression plugs used in the tube version fail when the center threaded rod corroded away. The plug falls apart....not good.
Dang man! Nice comment! Appreciate the suggestions.
Having just replaced a transom and drilled what felt like 50 holes.... I used a drilling jig which ensured every single hole was perfectly aligned on both sides. Well worth it vs. eyeballing and hoping you're going to be close enough. Especially when needing to hit transom brackets, etc. on the other side. When tackling splashwell drains/motor mount holes, I drilled a pilot through both sides and then used a hole saw. If you use a spade and catch the edge of aluminum or glass, it will jump a little potentially making a mess. If drilling the transom on the bench and wanting perfect holes, you can't beat a forsner bit. As douglas mentioned also - definitely worth the time to fill over-drilled holes with epoxy and drill to size after cure. Thank for sharing this video - even though old - it's invaluable.
Thx for this. I've got leaking drain plug on a fiberglass deck boat. Alot of work I have to do. On the inside the hole around plug is bigger and looks hollow around the plug. Doesn't leak alot but its enough. Thought about knocking it out cause its not flared on the inside cause its not quite long enough to flare it, besides, the hole is bigger and it slightly loose. Maybe use some marine adhesive like u got or use some fiberglass resin and fill in the hole alittle on the inside. Ive never had experience in fixing boats and so far I've lined quite a few places with resin and matting to stop the bigger leaks on the bottom. This is beginning to be my worst nightmare. Its 16ft by 8ft in size and is HEAVY. I ask myself how I got myself in this situation.
Bobby, I wished I had better news for you, but you appear to have a rotten transom. It only gets expensive from here on out. If you do opt to go forward with the repair, I got videos to cover a full rebuild. Please subscribe! Thanks for your comments.
Great video thank you.
Very welcome
Great information thanks
Is the Factory Flare side on the interior or exterior of the boat for final installation?
Why did you cut hole so high in bilge? Most boats I've worked on have 1/4in or less to base of floor in bilge to run as much water out as possible.
About the 16:30 mark where you are putting in your plug sleeve.
What if a guy bored that hole out just enough to allow a layer of that Kevlar to fit wrapped around that sleeve and epoxied in, with a nice 4x4 square behind the flare?
Over engineering?
I ask as I have always noticed cracking around plug and bolt aeras as one would expect. I can eliminate tons of the other holes, but the plug might be important 🤏😜
**I didn't read the comment below before asking lol
hey mate where do you get flaring tool
Look up a Sea Dog 520290-1 Drain Tube Flaring Tool, 1"
Angry Mack Adventures amazon
West marine
Is that really Kevlar? Looks like fiberglass to me.
I promise. Please subscribe!
Why not smear thickened epoxy on the inside of the hole, coat the drain tube in wax, then press the tube into place (without cutting or flaring). After the epoxy sets, remove the tube and clean up any excess epoxy. Then coat with PL and flare. With the method you used you're trusting your entire transom job to a few cents worth of PL. Just my $.02
Brilliantly stated
Where did you get the materials
Omg this video was legit 20 mins making a hole in the boat. Lol I can't even
I gotcha. Keep in mind that hole is what destroys the transom. It’s the weakest link in the chain. If done wrong, all your hard rebuild efforts are for nothing.
@@michaelromer2016 and you did it wrong
@@rumnboats7612 dang it. Thanks.
“I can’t even?” How old are you?
What you tried to say is: "match the angle of the transom when drilling."
Good call! I’ll be doing this again on the Glastron here in a month. That boat you see in this series is still going strong years later! Please subscribe.
Do you need to use the flaring tool???
You must use a flaring tool. Otherwise it won’t seal. Please subscribe!
@@michaelromer2016 What does the flaring tool do?
@@NUrukhai it flares the other side. So basically it makes a lip on the other side and pulls it together tight. If not it would just be glued in and would leak. It will sweal up the other end and make it tight. There cheap on Amazon.
What is that aluminum boat??
Wouldn’t a hole saw make a cleaner hole?
I believe that is what I used in this video. Please subscribe!
At 8:00 you say to round the edge of the glass you are going to flare a drain plug into, that's not how it works, it's a flare tool to flare the plug onto a flat surface. PL products have no place on a boat ever.
Why wouldn't you epoxy let dry then use your lock tight sealer
There is epoxy on the outside, but I wanted something with a little more flexibility as it went through the transom.
No O-rings?
Definitely no o-ring. For sure use marine adhesive.
@@michaelromer2016 I put them in before, definitely marine adhesive and O-ring under both flares.
@revenge69ful Nice assist!
Very informative...
Thanks and don’t forget to subscribe!
Would using the tube as a guide be helpful determining the center of hole?
MrSirrah2 that’s an option. I’d consider using a measuring tape to find the center.
When did he flair the inside, I must have fallen asleep
The part arrives with one side pre=flared. Please hit that subscribe button!
He put the flared end of tube on the inside for aesthetics.
Seems like copper pipe cutter would work better
If you have one it is easy to use.
@@michaelromer2016 Great Video. On my dusky some idiot just drilled a hole in the transom and exposed the core. I had to fill a section of the transom around the drain hole. I installed the tube as in the video after and it turned out great. The tubing cutter worked well but left a camber on the tube I had to grind off anyway. Thanks
BOAT ,,BUST OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND
Do the work yourself, its fun.
I am,
Pipe cutter
You still still need to flare the end, otherwise you will have a leak.
Hacksaw better than pipe cutter because the scoring and cutting effect is pushing the lip of the pipe in the wrong direction
This is so much easier with the engine removed.
I totally couldn't imagine having to do this with the motor installed. Thanks for your comments!
This looks to me like YOU needed a "how to" video rather than make one.
Correct. I’m still working on learning how to work on a boat. One day I will have the skills to make a competent video. Please subscribe!
Transoms Probaly already rotten
Boat is still solid as an ox.