Like you, I always thought this was more complicated. Harbor Freight sells a similar one and I always thought about getting it. I was just always afraid of making a mess with my chain! Thank you for putting this video together.
The best thing about sharpening your own chains is that you can make them last much longer. My main saw is a mid weight saw mostly used for cutting up small to medium sized trees and limbs. I had 3 chains and after several storm tree cleanups 2 had gotten dull. I dropped them off to get sharpened and when I went to pick them up, I was shocked when they said the one couldn't be sharpened again and the other one might be able to be sharpened one more time. I know they were not that bad and neither had been sharpened before. That's when I went out and purchased a inexpensive file guide, a box of the proper sized round files, and file guide for what some call the rakers, and a flat file for them. I found that Stihl, and Oregon files are very good and last a very long time, well worth the money vs some of the other brands. With a little practice I got really good at sharpening my own chains and I get a lot more life out of my chains. A big tree came down on the property line and the neighbor was helping me clean it up. He said he needed to get his chain sharpened and look into getting an extra chain. I got my setup and while he hauled some of the wood away with the bobcat I sharpened his chain and when he got back he fired it up and was amazed at how fast it was cutting. I mentioned that by doing it himself he would get much more life out of each chain and it just takes a little practice, or if he brought it over on the saw I would sharpen it for him. We had a chain sharpener at the one place I worked at. No one knew how to use it. I played around with it on some chains that were almost shot and I didn't have much luck with it. Again there were no instructions and no one else had ever used it. I messed with it but my boss didn't want me to put much time into it, so it sat there for 20 plus years. Even if I would have figured it out, and I am sure with a bit more time I would have. We would send out 45 to 60 chains at a time to get sharpened and I know that they were not concerned about how much they removed at a time when they sharpened them. I had 100 ft. rolls of chain and some days I would make 50 or so chains up for the main saws we had. Back then I think we were paying around $7 or $8 per chain. I would have thought doing them ourselves could have saved us a good chunk of money but it was not my decision to make. My buddy has a Stihl dealership and he has a big automated chain sharpener that does pretty much everything on its own. I don't know how easy it is on the chains. But in his case he sells new chains so it's a win win for him. I will keep filling mine by hand for now.
That is kinda sad that it would sit for that long, awesome that you took the time to practice and try to learn how to. I bet that automatic one did set your friend back, but I am sure that it has paid for itself
Takes the temper out of the tooth with that one so your chains will get dull quicker. But it will work! I've hand flied for 30 years so its no issues and my chains are super sharp!
I used to spend $5 per chain for many many years, I should have gotten one earlier, but it was really convenient to drop them off and pick them up in a few day
@@tedneitzel faster means more heat. They would have fluid running over it though. I don’t mind you sharpening with a file, but I don’t burn my teeth and get longer life out of my chains including ripping chains, and always have sharp chains. Being able to sharpen them with a file means that they are not that hard to begin with. I have some carbide files for the harder steels.
Hello Eric, i love your videos and so far in all things you were doing, you seemed to be an expert. Sorry to say (and please dont get me wrong) in chain sharpening you couldnt hold your high standards. I cut a lot of trees (feel free to check on my videos) but that chain sharpener....no sir! First of all, at least get that thing in a vice or scree it to a table Second: do not grind of too much at once, you heat up the hardend steel on that chain, making it soft. When the steel turns brown or even blue....it was to much heat. There is a reason, why bigger (and much better) grinders (e.g. Oregon Jolly) cost a lot more than this one shown in the video. The Jolly is actually worth the money. Greetings from Austria/Europe.
Like any tool it's only as good as the person using it. I have a similar unit and it works great. I mark my starting tooth with a paint marker and go around twice to keep the heat down. Thanks for the review!
I was taught at a young age that the best way to learn how to sharpen a chainsaw is using a dull chainsaw enough and you will figure out how to get it sharpe. I do have the harbor freight version of this because I also have a chainsaw mill I use to saw lumber and sharpening a 172 drive link chain multiple times a day is no fun by hand
Just because some tools are less expensive than the name brands does not mean its junk. I have owned Harbor freight socket sets for years and they have not failed ( yet ) where I have broken the newer craftsman wratchets . Now days you got to get more bang for the buck unless your making the big bucks.
Working as a mechanic for many many years, I have found out that there are only certain tools that needed to be name brand because of how much of a specialty they were.
Wow on this one we going to have disagree I got one just like it n it junk to me I use a file n have since I wus a kid heck I did it fir my great uncle at 16 for hole summer at his saw company it first thing he had me do n years later I can hammer saw blades taller than me but whith a file I git much more sharpings n I can get better cut on pine whith one angle or a better cut on okay whith a nuther
I'm sure the over priced Stihl work, but why waste money on one when this works just as good? I highly doubt you own one, and yet you want to call it junk?
@@FarpointFarms Because it doesnt work just as good. The cheap thing here does 5700 rpm, you overheat the steel, it ruins your chains. But it´s ok if you wont listen....as long as you dont touch my own chains.
That was great. that is easy once set up. I got a 12V one that clips right on the bar. works pretty good . now you can make money sharping chains.
Right on, I am sure that with practice I could get pretty fast with it
Like you, I always thought this was more complicated. Harbor Freight sells a similar one and I always thought about getting it. I was just always afraid of making a mess with my chain! Thank you for putting this video together.
Glad I could help you out
The best thing about sharpening your own chains is that you can make them last much longer. My main saw is a mid weight saw mostly used for cutting up small to medium sized trees and limbs. I had 3 chains and after several storm tree cleanups 2 had gotten dull. I dropped them off to get sharpened and when I went to pick them up, I was shocked when they said the one couldn't be sharpened again and the other one might be able to be sharpened one more time. I know they were not that bad and neither had been sharpened before. That's when I went out and purchased a inexpensive file guide, a box of the proper sized round files, and file guide for what some call the rakers, and a flat file for them. I found that Stihl, and Oregon files are very good and last a very long time, well worth the money vs some of the other brands. With a little practice I got really good at sharpening my own chains and I get a lot more life out of my chains. A big tree came down on the property line and the neighbor was helping me clean it up. He said he needed to get his chain sharpened and look into getting an extra chain. I got my setup and while he hauled some of the wood away with the bobcat I sharpened his chain and when he got back he fired it up and was amazed at how fast it was cutting. I mentioned that by doing it himself he would get much more life out of each chain and it just takes a little practice, or if he brought it over on the saw I would sharpen it for him. We had a chain sharpener at the one place I worked at. No one knew how to use it. I played around with it on some chains that were almost shot and I didn't have much luck with it. Again there were no instructions and no one else had ever used it. I messed with it but my boss didn't want me to put much time into it, so it sat there for 20 plus years. Even if I would have figured it out, and I am sure with a bit more time I would have. We would send out 45 to 60 chains at a time to get sharpened and I know that they were not concerned about how much they removed at a time when they sharpened them. I had 100 ft. rolls of chain and some days I would make 50 or so chains up for the main saws we had. Back then I think we were paying around $7 or $8 per chain. I would have thought doing them ourselves could have saved us a good chunk of money but it was not my decision to make. My buddy has a Stihl dealership and he has a big automated chain sharpener that does pretty much everything on its own. I don't know how easy it is on the chains. But in his case he sells new chains so it's a win win for him. I will keep filling mine by hand for now.
That is kinda sad that it would sit for that long, awesome that you took the time to practice and try to learn how to. I bet that automatic one did set your friend back, but I am sure that it has paid for itself
Takes the temper out of the tooth with that one so your chains will get dull quicker. But it will work! I've hand flied for 30 years so its no issues and my chains are super sharp!
I used to spend $5 per chain for many many years, I should have gotten one earlier, but it was really convenient to drop them off and pick them up in a few day
I have been told that, how do you think they sharpen them when they make the chain? Touching up a chain every day does not heat up a tooth.
@@D-B-Cooper they have much faster turning setup. It make a huge difference!
@@tedneitzel faster means more heat. They would have fluid running over it though. I don’t mind you sharpening with a file, but I don’t burn my teeth and get longer life out of my chains including ripping chains, and always have sharp chains. Being able to sharpen them with a file means that they are not that hard to begin with. I have some carbide files for the harder steels.
Hello Eric, i love your videos and so far in all things you were doing, you seemed to be an expert.
Sorry to say (and please dont get me wrong) in chain sharpening you couldnt hold your high standards.
I cut a lot of trees (feel free to check on my videos) but that chain sharpener....no sir!
First of all, at least get that thing in a vice or scree it to a table
Second: do not grind of too much at once, you heat up the hardend steel on that chain, making it soft. When the steel turns brown or even blue....it was to much heat.
There is a reason, why bigger (and much better) grinders (e.g. Oregon Jolly) cost a lot more than this one shown in the video. The Jolly is actually worth the money.
Greetings from Austria/Europe.
It will be permanently mounted on a work bench once I figure out where I want it to live. Thanks for sharing the other tips
Like any tool it's only as good as the person using it. I have a similar unit and it works great. I mark my starting tooth with a paint marker and go around twice to keep the heat down. Thanks for the review!
Thanks for the tip- I was using a black sharpie and it was kinda hard to see where I started
I was taught at a young age that the best way to learn how to sharpen a chainsaw is using a dull chainsaw enough and you will figure out how to get it sharpe. I do have the harbor freight version of this because I also have a chainsaw mill I use to saw lumber and sharpening a 172 drive link chain multiple times a day is no fun by hand
I could imagine how long that would take by hand, you would spend more time trying to sharpen vs cutting
Very nice !
Way better than expected
Just because some tools are less expensive than the name brands does not mean its junk. I have owned Harbor freight socket sets for years and they have not failed ( yet ) where I have broken the newer craftsman wratchets . Now days you got to get more bang for the buck unless your making the big bucks.
Working as a mechanic for many many years, I have found out that there are only certain tools that needed to be name brand because of how much of a specialty they were.
👍
Thanks
I’ve always used a file. I’m not the best at it. But practice makes perfect they say..🤷♂️
No shame in not being an expert- I am not a good welder, but I keep at it
@@FarpointFarms I like welding also. Learn something everyday.
Wow on this one we going to have disagree I got one just like it n it junk to me
I use a file n have since I wus a kid heck I did it fir my great uncle at 16 for hole summer at his saw company it first thing he had me do n years later I can hammer saw blades taller than me but whith a file I git much more sharpings n I can get better cut on pine whith one angle or a better cut on okay whith a nuther
That is fine too
This thing is JUNK, get a Stihl two in one sharpener, it works better than ANYTHING.
I'm sure the over priced Stihl work, but why waste money on one when this works just as good? I highly doubt you own one, and yet you want to call it junk?
@@FarpointFarms Because it doesnt work just as good. The cheap thing here does 5700 rpm, you overheat the steel, it ruins your chains.
But it´s ok if you wont listen....as long as you dont touch my own chains.