How to inspect your Carb Sync Tool Part 1 Carburetor Synchronization
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This video shows how to inspect the integrity of your carburetor synchronization tool. This demonstration was filmed in the lab at Western Iowa Tech Community College Motorcycle and Powersports Technology Program. The program is closed now after funding was cut.
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Really good video, explained a lot more than I expected it to. Demonstrating gauge calibration and damper repair was a nice bonus.
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Loma I know lots of guys who don't know how to use vac gauges properly,I will show them this video and say "see I told you so " haha thats why I use a manometer they never lie. Cheap as cheap can be to make and never need to be calibrated..
26 feet of hose and 2 t fittings and a bit of fork oil mount it on a 4 foot board and done.
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All good info. Been a mc mechanic since the 80s and raced 350 twin 2 strokes and superbikes, the former harder to balance carbs on. IME shop gauges need to be calibrated every tune not just once and marked because you never know when some goof will drop and they can go out of synch, testing with the vac gun is one way but the other way is to plug each gauge one at a time into one intake spigot to compare them on the same intake first, then plug them into the rest of the intakes knowing they are cal'd to each other.. alternative setup is 4 small ball valve taps on a single gauge, you open each tap one at a time to compare readings on the one gauge so no cal required.I've seen a gauge set with plastic covers on 3 of 4 gauges with a reference line on the cover you can rotate to zero the line to calibrate the last 3 gauges to the first one. But all the ones I see these days seem to be either the Chinese blue ones or a slightly better copy using same low budget car gauges, dampers seem to be a mod con. More reason to cal them every time.
+Snurre86 Don't use a vac pump use the engine vac that pulses, keep in mind gauges are cal'd to each other not absolute values.
+Snurre86 They are not calibrated to precision (absolute values) and are not intended to be, you calibrate the gauge yourself by closing or opening the vac damper screw to damp the movement, using a singular source of vacuum, and then adjust each gauge face to the same as read from one vacuum source. if you use a set of precision calibrated gauges they will not stay that way for long around a workshop with others using them or with wear over time, which is why you need to be able to calibrate them to each other yourself each time you use them.
That's 5 hours wasted you wont get back. Don't try to set the precision values of the gauges, if you rely on the repeatable accuracy of them and they go out of spec at all, and they will over time, you wont be winning any races and wont know why. They must be calibrated to each other as described each time they are used or balancing will be inaccurate, I've been a qualified mechanic since 1976 and spent most of my life doing this stuff and that is how it is done, and that is my professional qualified advice, and I have won superbike races and have the trophies to show for it, all while balancing the carbs the way I have described.
More fun riding a bike with well balanced carbs. You are quoting absolute values, they are irrelevant, the only reason they gauges have values on them is because they are not originally intended to balance carbs but to be used individually. To balance carbs all you need is 4 gauges with an adjustable mark on each to adjust the dial face to that mark each time you calibrate them before adjustment. Old carb intake balancers had no graduation, you adjusted the throat of the balancer until the ball came to a mark and used that to get all the other carbs tuned to that same mark. You can disagree with professional advice but it wont help you understand how carb balancing tools work and at this stage you do not appear to which is your loss only.
The manual expresses a differential value as a service specification, that is not an instructions on how to use the tool because when you balance the carbs you attempt to have 0 difference and if you note any difference you rebalance them to remove it. How to use the tool correctly is not a matter of feeling or opinion, you either use and read the tool correctly or not and that has been adequately explained, if you don't and refuse to learn how then that's your loss.
cut in my office, lol good to hear from ya bro
I really like this one buddy. i was going to buy a vacummate because i didn't want to have to miss with the adjustments, but now I rember how easy that it is so now i will save a few hundred bucks thanks man. Oh yeah but who is the little cutie in the back ground in your office? Thats what I am talking about lol. But any way good job guys keep it up and hopefully i will get to work with some of your students.
Suggestion: To "calibrate" meters, why not join all four tubes to a (4-into-1) junction and draw vacuum for gauges to read simultaneously?
Great idea...👍
shane conley My hat's off to guys like you who take the time and make the effort to share great videos like this one.
When you guys making part 2
Great video! I have a 2000 Honda Magna 750C. I removed and cleaned my four carbs and synchronized them on a bench. Once installed on the bike it still required more tuning but I still detect a slight backfire coming from my exhaust. I think perhaps it needs a fuel screw adjustment? My carbs have what appears to be a "D" shaped fuel screw which I'm unable to adjust because I don't know where I can get one? Would you happen to know where I could obtain these Honda Magna "D" shape tools?
what happened to the rest of the series?
I don't recall friend. That was so long ago.
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