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I learned from reading of people messing up on bikes like my BMW GS 1200 touching the screw that sets butterfly closed position that has epoxy sealant on it from the factory and won't start up after screwing with it. Appears there are stepper motors, ( I call servo's) that get a Ma signal from the ECM and adjusts the butterflies based on temperature of engine, and outside temperature to allow bike to start. Don't want to screw with some screws.
Oh yeah...! More reason why calibrating your calibration is a must! My buddy mechanic even said that you won't even need a specific vacuum value to follow; if every carb is balanced, and you re-adjusted the idle and they didn't change, you're good. Eyeing the sync won't work either. Make sure the sync is same at different rpm ranges as well. If it is a parallel twin, you might get it right though with just feeling the vibrations.
I think the information provided here was very well explained and easy to understand as a person learning off these videos thanks for the time to explain into lamens terms
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I recommend the Motion Pro Sync Pro. It works really well and accommodates a lot of different engine sizes. This video was on a 600 suzuki bandit but I can attest to a bandit 1200 being identical to this process. Oh and for the love of God if you ever call places to see if they can sync your carbs make sure they use a fluid/pressure gauge tool. Anyone who does it by ear is joke.
Right on ghostdog662. If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me. ua-cam.com/video/vjvmB01ebcs/v-deo.html Keep Wrenching, Shane Conley Instructor/Motivator/Motorcyclist www.how2wrench.com Like freebies? Click here for a free diagnostic checklist! gem.godaddy.com/signups/364621/join Did you like this free video and hope to see more? Would you just like to say thank you with a donation? Click www.paypal.me/how2wrench
Great video. Some things I've noted from doing multi-carb bikes, is that (in my experience) sync problems seem to mostly occur from inconsistencies from one cylinder to another, or tampering. So when someone brings me a bike that has sync problems, but the settings are unmolested, we immediately run a compression test and check engine health. I don't know if it's "proper", but I do like to use the shanks from two #80 drill bits to mechanically sync a carb set (especially if they've been molested), then run the bike with the gauges. One shank carefully goes in the "reference" carb between the body and butterfly (centered at the bottom of course) (adjust the idle screw to barely hold the shank), and we use the second shank to set the others one at a time. A good motor is usually pretty close in regards to sync once they are "mechanically" set. Of course that may not be a "proper" thing to do, but it's saved me a lot of sync time.
I have a saying I use often...."a $400 carb job will never FIX low compression"! Keep Wrenching, Shane Conley Instructor/Motivator/Motorcyclist www.how2wrench.com Like freebies? Click here for a free diagnostic checklist! gem.godaddy.com/signups/364621/join Did you like this free video and hope to see more? Would you just like to say thank you with a donation? Click www.paypal.me/how2wrench
Yes! And it's amazing how many people overlook this, especially with thier "barn finds". Ignition and charging quality seem to be overlooked alot too.. keep up the great work!
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Hello, Jenny from the social media team here...we showed this to Shane and he said: "It's always great to see old students on here and doing well! He's proud of you Grant...stay connected and much success" Shane
And just another message. Yesterday I managed to sync the 4 carbs on my 1000RX perfectly. Learnt so much from the video it was easy. The day before I had had the same problem with the idle cable hanging and I hadn't calibrated the 4 gauges before starting. I didn't know you had to. I just took the ramp off and having seen this video (at 1 min in there is a great pic showing the butterfly in position) I visually balanced all the butterflies - one pair at a time and then both pairs together on the bench and put the rack back on. After adjusting the idle which was now too low the carbs were already so much closer at was so easy to get them bang on. Just a small tweak. Made me feel good and carb syncronisation is no longer a mystery to me.
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Brilliant video. I have a 98 gsx750f that I acquired having been off the road a few years. Had it running but obviously needed attention. Long story short, had a seized pilot screw and ended up replacing carb number 4 (for anyone reading, mk2 1200 bandit carbs are identical 36mm mikuni cv carbs to the gsx750f and have the throttle position sensor). Noticed the o rings on the middle fuel rail between the carbs were shot so I've pulled them all apart. Now the reassembly... Having a hard time reconnecting the throttle plate adjusters back together without firing the springs across the shop. Any tips would be greatly received.
Oh man this was a helpful video. Waay better than some videos where they basically jus skip some steps n don't explain anything. I am having problems syncing my bandit 1200s cause the dials on 1&2 are so far apart from 3&4. And no matter how much I turn the middle screw I get very little movement to sync all for....But this vid jus gave me some clues, gonna go try fiddle with it more....
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I tested my carbs recently, they were not perfect, but close enough to not need adjusting. I do like seeing tutorials, it shows if I am doing it correctly, or not. I am not ever going to be too old to learn..
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Please bro, release a video of honda jade 250cc motorcycle carburetor ter synchronization and also tell me how many turns should I take on my carburetor air screws?
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If you have an air screw, that will be at the rear of the carburettor, also need to adjust the front fuel mixture screw to match the air/fuel ratio . Firstly ,never screw in tight as may damage the fine tip. Start with turn back 1-1.5 turns as this lowers the position of the tip in the fuel bowl and allows more fuel to enter. You can fine tune by riding and removing it all again. That's why EFI is so much better.. ......
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Im considering a carb /tb balancing tool soinds simple enough only question u mentionedcpligging vacuum lines . Do you mean the lines u disconnect to tb's? Ty in advance fab video
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I know this is an old post now and have just come across it. I would like to help others with resetting their guages if the needles are off when they are not connected..Turn the clear plastic lens to undo it and take it off You can see two screws on the dial face,turn the right hand screw to adjust the needle to match the others.
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Nice video I’ve got gsxf myself I put the carbs back on it runs alright but my butterfly’s don’t spring back well at all even with the cables fully slackened I checked the cable routings and the mech in thottle grips and butterfly spring fine without cables attached could it be the way the carbs are balanced cables were fine before?
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I can’t even get mine to bench synchronize correctly. The idle screw spring is compressed and bottomed out and barely touches the throttle. I would love to get mine figured out.
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Hi Shane!.. I'm in these right now,.. The manual says that it will be done in a specific order.. My Q is: do you touch the #3.(master) at all,.. Or do you by your 3 screws adjust every other except the master..? Love your work and videos!
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I have a zxr 400 and i dont know how to adjust the fuel screw. Do i go by default turns and then sync the carbs? Do i adjust it before sync? What is the proper way to do it? Thabk you
4- way: amzn.to/3PAVvsu or you can triple up "Y" amzn.to/3PAW1qq Glad it helped. You rock for commenting! We will let Shane know! You can give him a high 5 here: www.paypal.me/how2wrench Another way to help us back is joining or grabbing our T-shirt! Support links and gear below! Awesome and thanks for commenting! Smash the subscribe button (thank if already a sub!) Have you seen our "UA-cam Trained Support Shirts? Great way to "high five us" goodfellasmerch.com/collections/how-2-wrench/products/support-shirt Join this channel to get access to perks: ua-cam.com/channels/BhM8DCKnT3qXwTW0eToyCg.htmljoin -Daily MEMBER FIRST COMMENTS ANSWERED FIRST -Live Q/A video chats -Wonder if we have a video on your need? Members can request content links! -Full Access to the ENTIRE 700 video library -Member-Only FREE tool giveaways Got an emergency and your head is about to explode from frustration or fear? Get Shane’s cell here: how2wrench.com/ols/products/techline-one-on-one
The vacuum lines have a plug that you must remove to connect to the gauges. My YZF 600 has a metal plug. Without the plug there will be no vacuum. At end of video he shows one of the lines with a green plastic plug. If still unsure look at other videos.
please you need to help me! my vacuometer is fluctuating a lot but the pointer is at "0" that's right, it is at zero! I am trying to synchronize, I try to close the regulation register but the pointer goes crazy, it cannot be stable I don't know why, I've tried everything, I accelerate the bike, but it does not increase smoothly, it stays at 0 or keeps oscillating a lot
Hey Guys....We paid close attention to that as well. The carb sync calmed it but still did not cure it. Our plan is to switch it between cylinders and see. It did not have a "sloppy" feel. The student want to dyno the bike first for a before and after his work. If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me. ua-cam.com/video/vjvmB01ebcs/v-deo.html Keep Wrenching, Shane Conley Instructor/Motivator/Motorcyclist www.how2wrench.com Like freebies? Click here for a free diagnostic checklist! gem.godaddy.com/signups/364621/join Did you like this free video and hope to see more? Would you just like to say thank you with a donation? Click www.paypal.me/how2wrench
Just curious to sync the gauges if I don't have a t piece. Could I just use one vacuum line and switch them between the 4 gauges to get an idea if there out of sync?
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Yesterday I did carburetor synchronization. I synchronized 3 of them without any problems. But when trying to balance the fourth where there is a big difference. The idle speed of the engine increases too much. I can't reduce it by adjusting the idle screw because it has run out of range. The TPS sensor is set correctly. What could be the reason for this? Maybe the carburetor needs to be adjusted? Air-fuel mixture?
@@Mohapi_Tauyeah I have the same problem as well except with the 2nd gauge from the left also what number are y'all's gauges reading on the 3 mines at 20 is that right ?
@@cheesybread9827 All four gauges need to align together, I think it doesn't matter at which number they are because they somewhat fluctuate. "Harmonizing" the needles to be in sync with each other is the goal, I fiddled with the screws abit. So I kinda solved mine, though they don't line up perfectly, I'm OK with it. I'm putting the bike together, I think I'll upload a video & give a review of it rides when I'm done.
Hi Mate ,,great vid,,,,so easy to understand,just 1 question that puzzls me with syncing. if the carbs are off the bike cant you just adjust the butterflys so there all closed then adjust the idle to the corect rpm.s..as i understand there are 3-4 progresion holes in each carb & if 1 butterfls is open more then the other it will have more progresion holes open...hope you can explane it to me ...Cheers Brett
I have a double gauge and left one is lower by 1, it's for a Yamaha Virago XV 535. How would I calibrate the gauges so I know it's right. Any help would be appreciated.
Not sure why this one slipped by but most gauges have an adjusting screw that you can "tune" both gauges to one cylinder. Good side is you don't have to do math or record the off one. Donwnside is neither gauge is truly known to be the actual vacuum. For Example: Let's say you're adjusting to a service manual spec calling for "20" That being said, our main goal is getting them equal as it's hard to match the specs given on used motorcycles as engine wear will alter engine vacuum.
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@@How2Wrench no problem Shane, will do. Thanks so much for all you do for real!! Your experience, expertise, and desire to do a correct and complete job is amazing and well appreciated by all of us I know. Hope everyone becomes a member :)
What about using a single, high quality, gauge and just moving it across each port? Yeah I know, it's quite a lot more work and fiddling around, but it entirely eliminates the issue of mismatched gauges.
The problem with that is that adjusting one affects all the others because idle speed changes. You COULD in theory monitor RPM with a serious electronic tach and fiddle with idle speed..... Back and forth and back and forth.... Or use 4 gauges. Much easier.
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Rough running at idle is good clue. Carb Sync is just standard practice for professionals performing tune-ups. If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me. ua-cam.com/video/vjvmB01ebcs/v-deo.html Keep Wrenching, Shane Conley Instructor/Motivator/Motorcyclist www.how2wrench.com Like freebies? Click here for a free diagnostic checklist! gem.godaddy.com/signups/364621/join Did you like this free video and hope to see more? Would you just like to say thank you with a donation? Click www.paypal.me/how2wrench
On my bike, loss of smooth acceleration. Not huge, but when you ride a bike for while you notice subtle things. The next really obvious thing is back firing after chopping the throttle. Say passing a car, cutting back in and dropping the throttle. I make it a habit to check every spring. Takes about 15 min once you know how to do on your bike.
The only Japanese bikes that had a master carb were the 1977 and 1978 Honda fours with slide needle carbs. The master carb on those was #2 as it didn't have any sync adjustment while the #1, #3 and #4 did. All the carbs were synchronized to #2. Constant velocity carb sets don't have a master carb. They have 3 adjusters. One between #1 and #2. Another between #3 and #4. And one in the middle between #2 and #3. When you adjust the one between #1 and #2 you are adjusting #1 and #2 simultaneously against each other, bringing them closer together of farther apart. It's the same with #3 and #4. After you have done the two pairs you go to the adjuster between #2 and #3 to adjust the two pairs against each other.
I’ll take mercury sticks any day for syncing carbs. Problem is now a days they are very hard to find. However, vacuum gauges are better for troubleshooting in my experiences.
Unless you are going for a full racing application I find a well calibrated set of gauges to be more than adequate. The factory sync specs are usually pretty loose, and the gauges will dial them in much closer than factory spec. The carb sticks are great for squeezing out that last 1/100th horsepower.
Hello, thanks for guide. I would like to ask whats wrong. My gauges shows me unreadable values from -0,2 bar to -0,8 bar changing really quickly. one carb is constant -0,2 bar. Do you think what could be wrong?
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Just baught a bike (600 srad) that's been sitting a few years. Guy had fuel stabiliser in the tank. Battery was flat so I jumped it off my fireblade just to get it running. Let the engine warm up then once giving it short bips it ran fine and smooth with the choke off but it wouldnt rev over 8k? It was like a car when it goes into limp mode or safety mode! Any idea what could be the cause of this? It should rev to 12-14k even in neutral on the stands correct? Just wondering if you had any quick tips that I could try before I start stripping the carbs down and giving myself a possible headache and lighter wallet. Cheers from Wales in the UK. 👍🏼
@@jack4q2 havnt had the chance to get into it yet mate. Bad back AGAIN so I've been stuck in bed flat on my back for the past two days🙄it could well be plugs and old fuel!?
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What I actually said was...you need to identify the base carb first...re watch or reach out for one on one help on our techline: 👍 Thank you for taking the time to comment! Hit that subscribe button if you haven’t please! It helps us! Here is a way to support all the free videos. Want to say “thanks” or “keep it up”? Click here www.paypal.me/how2wrench Coach Conley is also available for hire to personally work one on one with you if ever needed. Yep he is a real person. Give him a call @ 602-345-0432 Details here: how2wrench.com/product/personal-tech-training-phone-facetime/ Your answers and help are just around the corner. Save time and money while protecting your investment and yourself by doing it the right way! Follow us! Web: www.How2Wrench.com www.Tools2Wrench.com
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Do what the manual says and it should be similar to this video I'm betting. Please hit that subscribe button for us! 👍 Thank you for taking the time to comment! It helps us! Here is a way to support all the free videos. Want to say “thanks” or “keep it up”? Click here www.paypal.me/how2wrench Follow us! www.How2Wrench.com www.Tools2Wrench.com Facebook: facebook.com/How2Wrench/ Instagram: instagram.com/how2wrench/
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@shane conley. I tried syncing up my carbs on my r6 and the idle is crazy right now (2k to 4k.) I think I may have messed up the sync and made matters worse. You available to trouble shoot?
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this lubrication setting is not precise but it is not clear how to fix it with the same caliber it is difficult to understand the butterfly knobs can not be adjusted with the camera 01 01 01 must be a micrometer
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We love sharing comments like this with Shane. Thanks for sharing and the added value to our wrenching community. Keep them coming. Want even more? Join the channel. And you'll spend to access all 800 vids and Shane Daily! Smash the sub and like please. Throw Shane a high five donation, channel membership or merch for saving you $$$$$$$ Links below to support more for this work! 🙏 You rock for commenting! We will let Shane know! Want even more? Best $$$ you'll ever spend...Join this channel to get access to perks: ua-cam.com/channels/BhM8DCKnT3qXwTW0eToyCg.htmljoin -Daily MEMBER FIRST COMMENTS ANSWERED FIRST -Live Q/A video chats -Wonder if we have a video on your need? Members can request content links! -Full Access to the ENTIRE 700 video library -Member-Only FREE tool giveaways Ways to support or high five How 2 Wrench! Thank you in advance. YOU MOTIVATE US TO DO MORE! 1. Smash the subscribe button (thank if already a sub!) 2. Have you seen our "UA-cam Trained Support Shirts? goodfellasmerch.com/collections/how-2-wrench/products/support-shirt 3. High five donation: www.paypal.me/how2wrench 4. Got an emergency and your head is about to explode from frustration or fear? Get Shane’s cell here: how2wrench.com/ols/products/techline-one-on-one
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OKAY. This guy is so very knowledgeable, but his inflection when teaching drives me nuts. I tried playing this back at .50 speed. It made matters worse ;(
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DO NOT USE THIS VIDEO AS A GUIDE FOR SYNCING THROTTLE BODIES!!! YOU DO NOT USE THE BUTTERFLY SCREWS TO ADJUST TBs ON MANY FI BIKES - YOU USE THE AIR SCREWS AND SCREWING UP THE BUTTERFLY SYNC IS GOING TO MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DIAL THE TBs BACK IN>
As with many of the videos here, we are demonstrating on a particular model. This model is carbureted. The main focus of the video is the correct tool usage and it is always best to know and understand the correct screw or procedure for your model your working on. Some models of EFI (throttle body) require the use of the OEM diagnostic tool to turn off or lock the IAC valve for example. Thanks for adding your comment and thoughts...H2W Thanks for commenting and adding value to our community! Please subscribe, share and consider a H2W membership to support our free work here! We are ramping up for the upcoming new member only site with profiles, raffle drawings, and weekly live Q/A sessions and a for sale page! We have a LIVE Q&A starting soon and will use comments from videos to try and answer too. Got a question you need answered sooner than our LIVE Q&A Shows are on? Here’s how to get your answer for free! ua-cam.com/video/oAeXz1nd-eQ/v-deo.html (and other free tools and products!)
Hey Guys....We paid close attention to that as well. The carb sync calmed it but still did not cure it. Our plan is to switch it between cylinders and see. It did not have a "sloppy" feel. The student want to dyno the bike first for a before and after his work.
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Actually, they can. We cover why in another video but in short its mostly a "storage issue of laying them on their side. Parts of the Mercury separates and each tube doesn't have the same amount. Regardless you can test each tube as shown in this video to prove correct or if a variance is needed when reading. Please hit that subscribe button for us! 👍 Thank you for taking the time to comment! It helps us! Here is a way to support all the free videos. Want to say “thanks” or “keep it up”? Click here www.paypal.me/how2wrench Follow us! www.How2Wrench.com www.Tools2Wrench.com Facebook: facebook.com/How2Wrench/ Instagram: instagram.com/how2wrench/
I wouldn’t...but my videos call out what I’ve seen happen. It was so bad that Motion Pro actually updated their instructions calling out not to do so because of all the bad publicity of techs claiming the tool was junk and they could tune better by ear! Lol. I appreciate comments and feedback anytime friend, just keep in mind our purpose is to be helpful and insightful. Keep Wrenching...Shane
Finally someone shows the whole sync screw turn and all outstanding balancing great video I learned alot . Now to do my 01 Hayabusa... Thank you sir
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This is what I’m talking about the master teaching the youngsters how to do things correctly.
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Bruh, what a shitty auto response
I learned from reading of people messing up on bikes like my BMW GS 1200 touching the screw that sets butterfly closed position that has epoxy sealant on it from the factory and won't start up after screwing with it. Appears there are stepper motors, ( I call servo's) that get a Ma signal from the ECM and adjusts the butterflies based on temperature of engine, and outside temperature to allow bike to start. Don't want to screw with some screws.
Oh yeah...! More reason why calibrating your calibration is a must! My buddy mechanic even said that you won't even need a specific vacuum value to follow; if every carb is balanced, and you re-adjusted the idle and they didn't change, you're good. Eyeing the sync won't work either. Make sure the sync is same at different rpm ranges as well. If it is a parallel twin, you might get it right though with just feeling the vibrations.
I think the information provided here was very well explained and easy to understand as a person learning off these videos thanks for the time to explain into lamens terms
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Absolutely brilliant videos Shane...thanks for taking the time to release them out in the wild! :)
Hhjle
I recommend the Motion Pro Sync Pro. It works really well and accommodates a lot of different engine sizes.
This video was on a 600 suzuki bandit but I can attest to a bandit 1200 being identical to this process.
Oh and for the love of God if you ever call places to see if they can sync your carbs make sure they use a fluid/pressure gauge tool. Anyone who does it by ear is joke.
Right on ghostdog662.
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Great video. Some things I've noted from doing multi-carb bikes, is that (in my experience) sync problems seem to mostly occur from inconsistencies from one cylinder to another, or tampering. So when someone brings me a bike that has sync problems, but the settings are unmolested, we immediately run a compression test and check engine health. I don't know if it's "proper", but I do like to use the shanks from two #80 drill bits to mechanically sync a carb set (especially if they've been molested), then run the bike with the gauges. One shank carefully goes in the "reference" carb between the body and butterfly (centered at the bottom of course) (adjust the idle screw to barely hold the shank), and we use the second shank to set the others one at a time. A good motor is usually pretty close in regards to sync once they are "mechanically" set. Of course that may not be a "proper" thing to do, but it's saved me a lot of sync time.
I have a saying I use often...."a $400 carb job will never FIX low compression"!
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Yes! And it's amazing how many people overlook this, especially with thier "barn finds". Ignition and charging quality seem to be overlooked alot too.. keep up the great work!
Keep Wrenching,
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Very informative! Great camera shots and great explanation, was very curious how multi carbs were set up.
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Man I miss that bike! Funny how I come back to videos to get refreshers to keep my skills in line!
Hello, Jenny from the social media team here...we showed this to Shane and he said: "It's always great to see old students on here and doing well! He's proud of you Grant...stay connected and much success" Shane
And just another message. Yesterday I managed to sync the 4 carbs on my 1000RX perfectly. Learnt so much from the video it was easy. The day before I had had the same problem with the idle cable hanging and I hadn't calibrated the 4 gauges before starting. I didn't know you had to. I just took the ramp off and having seen this video (at 1 min in there is a great pic showing the butterfly in position) I visually balanced all the butterflies - one pair at a time and then both pairs together on the bench and put the rack back on. After adjusting the idle which was now too low the carbs were already so much closer at was so easy to get them bang on. Just a small tweak. Made me feel good and carb syncronisation is no longer a mystery to me.
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@2:38 noticed that one of the diaphragms is jumping, is that normal?
Nope bad valve in engine
@@davidhill5621 Not necessarily. If the carbs are as far out of sync as these were it would not be uncommon to have that condition.
Brilliant video. I have a 98 gsx750f that I acquired having been off the road a few years. Had it running but obviously needed attention. Long story short, had a seized pilot screw and ended up replacing carb number 4 (for anyone reading, mk2 1200 bandit carbs are identical 36mm mikuni cv carbs to the gsx750f and have the throttle position sensor). Noticed the o rings on the middle fuel rail between the carbs were shot so I've pulled them all apart. Now the reassembly... Having a hard time reconnecting the throttle plate adjusters back together without firing the springs across the shop. Any tips would be greatly received.
Oh man this was a helpful video. Waay better than some videos where they basically jus skip some steps n don't explain anything. I am having problems syncing my bandit 1200s cause the dials on 1&2 are so far apart from 3&4. And no matter how much I turn the middle screw I get very little movement to sync all for....But this vid jus gave me some clues, gonna go try fiddle with it more....
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I tested my carbs recently, they were not perfect, but close enough to not need adjusting. I do like seeing tutorials, it shows if I am doing it correctly, or not. I am not ever going to be too old to learn..
Thanks! Love hearing that.
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Please bro, release a video of honda jade 250cc motorcycle carburetor ter synchronization and also tell me how many turns should I take on my carburetor air screws?
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If you have an air screw, that will be at the rear of the carburettor, also need to adjust the front fuel mixture screw to match the air/fuel ratio .
Firstly ,never screw in tight as may damage the fine tip. Start with turn back 1-1.5 turns as this lowers the position of the tip in the fuel bowl and allows more fuel to enter. You can fine tune by riding and removing it all again. That's why EFI is so much better.. ......
Just rewatched this. That self made 1 into 4 vacuum tool to check your gauges is great. :)
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Awesome info, I have to go and sync my bandit carbs.😀
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thanks for the reminder to check the gauges!
We love sharing comments like this with Shane.
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Excellent. Finally carb synching well explained WITH pitfalls pointed out. Thanks.
Im considering a carb /tb balancing tool soinds simple enough only question u mentionedcpligging vacuum lines . Do you mean the lines u disconnect to tb's? Ty in advance fab video
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Can do benelli 600i throttle body synchronized?
I know this is an old post now and have just come across it. I would like to help others with resetting their guages if the needles are off when they are not connected..Turn the clear plastic lens to undo it and take it off You can see two screws on the dial face,turn the right hand screw to adjust the needle to match the others.
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Nice video I’ve got gsxf myself I put the carbs back on it runs alright but my butterfly’s don’t spring back well at all even with the cables fully slackened I checked the cable routings and the mech in thottle grips and butterfly spring fine without cables attached could it be the way the carbs are balanced cables were fine before?
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I can’t even get mine to bench synchronize correctly. The idle screw spring is compressed and bottomed out and barely touches the throttle. I would love to get mine figured out.
Big help adjusting my Kawa 1000RX. Help with the advice checking the tool to start with and about the idle screw problem.
Nice...Thank you...
What is the coz if you rev into 2 thou or 4thou. Rpm it won't go down right away?
I would need some more info to get you the right answer. I’d be glad to take the time. Can you help us back?
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Great video. Short but sweet. Thanks!
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Hi Shane!.. I'm in these right now,.. The manual says that it will be done in a specific order.. My Q is: do you touch the #3.(master) at all,.. Or do you by your 3 screws adjust every other except the master..? Love your work and videos!
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@@How2Wrench Great, thanks! I'll might call you up on that! Thank for your time and answer! =) -Gord
I have a zxr 400 and i dont know how to adjust the fuel screw. Do i go by default turns and then sync the carbs? Do i adjust it before sync? What is the proper way to do it? Thabk you
Hi sire great video where did you get the 4 way splitter?
4- way: amzn.to/3PAVvsu or you can triple up "Y" amzn.to/3PAW1qq
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Wonder what he meant about plugging the vacuum lines...very last thing he said.
The vacuum lines have a plug that you must remove to connect to the gauges. My YZF 600 has a metal plug. Without the plug there will be no vacuum. At end of video he shows one of the lines with a green plastic plug. If still unsure look at other videos.
He had the fuel tank removed, so the vac line to the fuel valve had to be plugged... I'm assuming.
Correct...
please you need to help me!
my vacuometer is fluctuating a lot
but the pointer is at "0" that's right, it is at zero!
I am trying to synchronize,
I try to close the regulation register
but the pointer goes crazy, it cannot be stable
I don't know why, I've tried everything,
I accelerate the bike, but it does not increase smoothly, it stays at 0 or keeps oscillating a lot
Thanks Shane, on the 3rd carb there was some fluttering, is this acceptable? Around the 2:30 mark
Hey Guys....We paid close attention to that as well. The carb sync calmed it but still did not cure it. Our plan is to switch it between cylinders and see. It did not have a "sloppy" feel. The student want to dyno the bike first for a before and after his work.
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excellent explanation to take it into account, greetings from Argentina!
Just curious to sync the gauges if I don't have a t piece. Could I just use one vacuum line and switch them between the 4 gauges to get an idea if there out of sync?
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Yesterday I did carburetor synchronization. I synchronized 3 of them without any problems. But when trying to balance the fourth where there is a big difference. The idle speed of the engine increases too much. I can't reduce it by adjusting the idle screw because it has run out of range. The TPS sensor is set correctly. What could be the reason for this? Maybe the carburetor needs to be adjusted? Air-fuel mixture?
So did you solve it? I have the same problem
@@Mohapi_Tauyeah I have the same problem as well except with the 2nd gauge from the left also what number are y'all's gauges reading on the 3 mines at 20 is that right ?
@@cheesybread9827 All four gauges need to align together, I think it doesn't matter at which number they are because they somewhat fluctuate. "Harmonizing" the needles to be in sync with each other is the goal, I fiddled with the screws abit.
So I kinda solved mine, though they don't line up perfectly, I'm OK with it. I'm putting the bike together, I think I'll upload a video & give a review of it rides when I'm done.
Hi Mate ,,great vid,,,,so easy to understand,just 1 question that puzzls me with syncing. if the carbs are off the bike cant you just adjust the butterflys so there all closed then adjust the idle to the corect rpm.s..as i understand there are 3-4 progresion holes in each carb & if 1 butterfls is open more then the other it will have more progresion holes open...hope you can explane it to me ...Cheers Brett
I have a double gauge and left one is lower by 1, it's for a Yamaha Virago XV 535. How would I calibrate the gauges so I know it's right. Any help would be appreciated.
Not sure why this one slipped by but most gauges have an adjusting screw that you can "tune" both gauges to one cylinder. Good side is you don't have to do math or record the off one. Donwnside is neither gauge is truly known to be the actual vacuum. For Example: Let's say you're adjusting to a service manual spec calling for "20" That being said, our main goal is getting them equal as it's hard to match the specs given on used motorcycles as engine wear will alter engine vacuum.
@@How2Wrench thanks 👍
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@@How2Wrench no problem Shane, will do. Thanks so much for all you do for real!! Your experience, expertise, and desire to do a correct and complete job is amazing and well appreciated by all of us I know. Hope everyone becomes a member :)
What about using a single, high quality, gauge and just moving it across each port? Yeah I know, it's quite a lot more work and fiddling around, but it entirely eliminates the issue of mismatched gauges.
The problem with that is that adjusting one affects all the others because idle speed changes. You COULD in theory monitor RPM with a serious electronic tach and fiddle with idle speed..... Back and forth and back and forth.... Or use 4 gauges. Much easier.
This guy don’t miss
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what would be some symptoms that come with a unsynched carb, just curious what the list would be that would make look at the carb synch first.
Rough running at idle is good clue. Carb Sync is just standard practice for professionals performing tune-ups. If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me.
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On my bike, loss of smooth acceleration. Not huge, but when you ride a bike for while you notice subtle things. The next really obvious thing is back firing after chopping the throttle. Say passing a car, cutting back in and dropping the throttle. I make it a habit to check every spring. Takes about 15 min once you know how to do on your bike.
Witch one is the master carb on that mikuni carburetor I have a 1989 Suzuki gsxr 750 tnx
The only Japanese bikes that had a master carb were the 1977 and 1978 Honda fours with slide needle carbs. The master carb on those was #2 as it didn't have any sync adjustment while the #1, #3 and #4 did. All the carbs were synchronized to #2. Constant velocity carb sets don't have a master carb. They have 3 adjusters. One between #1 and #2. Another between #3 and #4. And one in the middle between #2 and #3. When you adjust the one between #1 and #2 you are adjusting #1 and #2 simultaneously against each other, bringing them closer together of farther apart. It's the same with #3 and #4. After you have done the two pairs you go to the adjuster between #2 and #3 to adjust the two pairs against each other.
How do the gages compare to Mercury "sticks" which is better? Good video BTW!
Fallbangskid: I have never used this 4 dial gauge setup but it looks like a pain to use. The vertical gauge is much easier to read in my opinion.
I’ll take mercury sticks any day for syncing carbs. Problem is now a days they are very hard to find. However, vacuum gauges are better for troubleshooting in my experiences.
Unless you are going for a full racing application I find a well calibrated set of gauges to be more than adequate. The factory sync specs are usually pretty loose, and the gauges will dial them in much closer than factory spec. The carb sticks are great for squeezing out that last 1/100th horsepower.
Hello, thanks for guide. I would like to ask whats wrong. My gauges shows me unreadable values from -0,2 bar to -0,8 bar changing really quickly. one carb is constant -0,2 bar. Do you think what could be wrong?
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There's a damping adjustment on the vacuum gauge, adjust until the flattering stops. ua-cam.com/video/o_6kogPD5GI/v-deo.html
Great tips! Good job brother! 🤙🤙
Thanks Cody! Looking good on your end too!
Just baught a bike (600 srad) that's been sitting a few years. Guy had fuel stabiliser in the tank. Battery was flat so I jumped it off my fireblade just to get it running. Let the engine warm up then once giving it short bips it ran fine and smooth with the choke off but it wouldnt rev over 8k? It was like a car when it goes into limp mode or safety mode! Any idea what could be the cause of this? It should rev to 12-14k even in neutral on the stands correct?
Just wondering if you had any quick tips that I could try before I start stripping the carbs down and giving myself a possible headache and lighter wallet.
Cheers from Wales in the UK. 👍🏼
Was it your spark plugs or just dirty carbs ??
@@jack4q2 havnt had the chance to get into it yet mate. Bad back AGAIN so I've been stuck in bed flat on my back for the past two days🙄it could well be plugs and old fuel!?
I need that tool
Here are some good deals: amzn.to/35nuuDk
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Did he say 3 and 4 and then 2 and 3 and last 1 and 2?
What I actually said was...you need to identify the base carb first...re watch or reach out for one on one help on our techline:
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how do I feed fuel to it?
With a remote fuel reservoir! They can be made for fairly cheap.
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Shane Conley could have just said what Daniel said!
great pointers
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Do we need to sync in high rpm?or just at idle?I have bandit 250 vc, and manual book of bandit 400cc, it says we have to sync at 2000 RPM
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Shane, you r great as always.I m around CA.Come n lets have a lunch again:)
Yo Buddy! Sounds good! Good to hear from you!
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@shane conley. I tried syncing up my carbs on my r6 and the idle is crazy right now (2k to 4k.) I think I may have messed up the sync and made matters worse. You available to trouble shoot?
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Would have never thought to verify gauges themself were accurate.
Morgan CarbTune carb synch tool doesn't need to be calibrated at all. I'm so glad I spent the extra cash
this lubrication setting is not precise but it is not clear how to fix it with the same caliber it is difficult to understand the butterfly knobs can not be adjusted with the camera 01 01 01 must be a micrometer
Wow what a nice information you did, it is very interesting.
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Thank you
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Oh look I learnt something!
Nice....sweeeeeeet
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Thanks!!! I have since went to an EFI bike, but will you in my favorites file. :-)
Great. Feel free to share anything!
OKAY. This guy is so very knowledgeable, but his inflection when teaching drives me nuts. I tried playing this back at .50 speed. It made matters worse ;(
It sounds like it’s got a misfire
I'm so glad I only have 2 cylinders haha, this looks so annoying in comparison
Lol what are the odds this is the first video I clicked on and I have a gsx750f katana
Pretty dang sweet find then....
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Have for sure! Taught me a lot from this short video , straight to the point 👍🏻
DO NOT USE THIS VIDEO AS A GUIDE FOR SYNCING THROTTLE BODIES!!! YOU DO NOT USE THE BUTTERFLY SCREWS TO ADJUST TBs ON MANY FI BIKES - YOU USE THE AIR SCREWS AND SCREWING UP THE BUTTERFLY SYNC IS GOING TO MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DIAL THE TBs BACK IN>
As with many of the videos here, we are demonstrating on a particular model. This model is carbureted. The main focus of the video is the correct tool usage and it is always best to know and understand the correct screw or procedure for your model your working on. Some models of EFI (throttle body) require the use of the OEM diagnostic tool to turn off or lock the IAC valve for example. Thanks for adding your comment and thoughts...H2W
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flatslide carbs entered the chat..
Like Viewer Dytlief Moller I was wondering about the fluttering carb I have seen this before
Hey Guys....We paid close attention to that as well. The carb sync calmed it but still did not cure it. Our plan is to switch it between cylinders and see. It did not have a "sloppy" feel. The student want to dyno the bike first for a before and after his work.
Sure enough, you first have to check the gauges...
Why we madd the video for sure...thanks friend!
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Thanks Steve Carell
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oil cooled.
8
Mercury gauges don't lie, you just have to be careful not to close the throttle to fast at high rpms or you'll suck the mercury through your engine.
Actually, they can. We cover why in another video but in short its mostly a "storage issue of laying them on their side. Parts of the Mercury separates and each tube doesn't have the same amount. Regardless you can test each tube as shown in this video to prove correct or if a variance is needed when reading. Please hit that subscribe button for us! 👍 Thank you for taking the time to comment! It helps us!
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@@How2Wrench Why would you lay them on their side? If your glass has water in it do you set it down on it's side?
I wouldn’t...but my videos call out what I’ve seen happen. It was so bad that Motion Pro actually updated their instructions calling out not to do so because of all the bad publicity of techs claiming the tool was junk and they could tune better by ear! Lol. I appreciate comments and feedback anytime friend, just keep in mind our purpose is to be helpful and insightful. Keep Wrenching...Shane