How To: 3D Print with a Large Nozzle // 3D Printing Guide
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- With the release of our new Pulse HV (High Volume), Alec is here to give you tips and info on how to 3D print with larger nozzles. The new Pulse HV comes standard with a 1.2mm E3D Volcano nozzle! Learn more now!
Read the 3D printing with large nozzles article here:
www.matterhackers.com/article...
Learn more about the Pulse HV here:
www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
See the entire family of custom Pulse 3D printers here:
www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
Find the best 3D printer for your specific application:
www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
Explore 3D Printing at MatterHackers:
www.matterhackers.com/?rcode=...
Want to see more 3D printing & making awesomeness? Subscribe to our channel and turn on the notifications to get the latest and greatest 3D printing information delivered right to your flippin' inbox! - Наука та технологія
Did NOT realize I need to lower print speed as I increase nozzle size. That's crucial. Definitely didn't know about the high temp for 1.0 Nozzle. Thanks for info.
Good tips I just tried my first 1.0 nozzle print and really was surprised at how different and difficult the settings had to be.
I just performed every maintenance possible to my ender 3 because it was clogging and layer shifting when I was printing with a .8mm nozzle at 220.
I finally looked at the material coming out and after changing the retraction settings to 5 mm at 50 mm/s and heating the nozzle to 245 it's flowing MUCH better.
No more overlapping flaps and bubbling from underheated material.
Thank you for the advice!
245 its too much for standard ender3 hotend , yuor ptfe tube are going to burn, and clog the hotend , just wait
The heart of darkness. I like that.
Lower layer heights seem to make my layer adhesion very good
Your tutorial ( this and written one ) is brilliant. My prints with 1 mm nozzle on my Ender 3 pro are going great.
Thanks for the input. Overall, you are the go to guys after constant research.
Why does nobody ever talk about increasing the line width as a way of printing faster? I do it regularly and seldom have issues right up to a line width of 0.8mm with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Wait what ? Do layers still adhere like that ?
ya it adhere im doing the same. but more than 0.8 looks like shit.
@Alec Richter Been doing the same until recently on my i3 MK3S... Instead of 3x Perimeters at 0.4mm I'd do 2x at 0.6mm. I also used to mix-match different layer widths like 1x 0.4mm for the external one preserving the detail and 2x 0.6mm for the internal ones for the strength instead of 4x 0.4mm ones for all of them though since moving over to a Pressure Advance capable Voron 2.4 I've since stopped doing the mix-matching as it kinda wouldn't work out for me which isn't surprising as you're calibrating for one and not the other ( at least that is what I'm thinking has caused the poor results... ) But then again, the Vorons are so fast you easily make up for the lost timesaving due to sheer brute force speed and still print like 2-3x faster while still producing pristine parts or even faster if you work with parts not requiring clearance 🥴
Life saver, I just couldn't get a good raft down, I didn't think of going to such a high temperature. Solved all my problems. Also when that first layer goes down for the air gap it looks real scary but the layer after it somehow cleared it all up. FYI I am running an e3d supervolcano with a 1.4 mm on a Sovol SV01. One comment, some slicers allow the infill to be a different layer height than the outside wall so in some cases time can be saved without sacrificing detail.
Very, very helpful. Thanks!
Nice advices
Thanks for sharing :-)
Hi, I did print four SaturnV rockets, 2(!)meter high using a 1.5mm nozzle(Volcano). Printing time was well within 48 hours. I did use PLA at 245°C at 55mm/s. The most upper parts of the rockets were done using a 0.7 and a 0.4mm nozzle. They all have a very smooth surface, no issues at all, except for the visible layers of course. But looking from a distance at these rockets, most people don't even notice the layers at all.
Preparing now using a 2.5mm nozzle to print a 4(!) meter high SaturnV rocket.
Do you have a big printer or just print a lot of parts to stick together?
@@kermit5811 I have a few printers 200x300, all slef built and own design
@@ATMBelgium So you have to print a lot parts to build a 4 meter rocket?
@@kermit5811 For these two meter SaturnV rockets I could print all with a 200x200mm bed. For the 4.1 meter SaturnV I'm busy printing a new printer. I need a300x300mm bed to print the largest diameters of that rocket.
@@ATMBelgium Sounds nice. I think you want an anycubic chiron btw (400x400mm). ;o)
Hello. Thanks for your video. One question, did you have any stringing problem when switching to a bigger nozzle?
I am trying with a 0.6mm nozzle, but it generates a lot of stringing, and I cannot solve it.
Thanks.
looking at those top curves I would use my slicers feature to specify a thinner layer height for those terrace like curves on top.
So many things just clicked for me after watching this 👍 TY.
Anyone know what model that triceratops on the top right is?
I use a .6mm nozzle. I tried the others up to 1mm, and more me the 60mm is the sweat spot. Faster prints, and still pretty small layer heights if I need it. I have a cr10 and it's the defualt hot-end. No issues the pla, pla+, and PETG.
Any suggestions for slicer settings? I'm currently trying to get a Cura profile dialed in for a CR10s with a .6mm nozzle, but the prints have poor adhesion and look like ass.
@@TheeAbstractHero calibrate yuor extruder , check that yuo extrude what it be
Great video
Hello I currently print with a .8 tip and it prints very well at .12 layer height I love how it looks. The only bad thing I have to say is that I have played with all the settings at this height and I cannot stop the stringing. So its great for items like boxes, vases and models where no supports are needed so there will be no chance of stringing.
Have you tried to raise the retraction length and have extra length at restart? That might help give you more retraction but not have underextruded parts of your model.
The safest retraction length for me was 6mm but that did not fix the stringing. The only thing I have not tried is changing the layer heights which I might try just to see but I really like the print quality at .12 height.
Awesome video! What are you regular setting with 0.8 nozzles?
In printing with a volcano and .8mm nozzle x and .3mm layer height and .2mm initial layer, and it refuses to stick to clean mirror and blue masking tape at 40mm per second.
Some good points but I feel it should be pointed out that you need an all-metal hotend to print at the temps he describes. Without this, You can print at lower temperatures, but slower (say 50mm/s with a 0.8 nozzle). If you have a hotend with PTFE parts, printing at 250 C risks melting the PTFE and ruining it. I have had the safety cuttoff temp issue happen to me- solved it by having a more gradual fan ramp, e.g. 40% to 60% instead of zero to 60%
I would never leave my 1mm nozzle on overnight!
Do you know the advantages and disadvantages of different nozzle lengths? I'm not refering to "diameter", if you know what I mean.
Question. My printer has 0.4 standard nozzle and I print mostly using 0.2mm layer height. If I print with large nozzle, let say 1.2mm and layer height let say 0.6mm , do I need only do some changes in slicer ( for extrusion diameter and layer height) or I need to change some stuff in a program ?
Getting underextrusion after I switched to a .8mm nozzle that I drilled myself. I'm printing pla at 215°c and at speed of about 30-40mm for top,bottom,and outer walls. Inner walls and infill at 80mm. Should I keep bumping up the heat or will it increase stringing too much? Don't really want to have to slow down the print anymore as I'm using a .5mm lh and .8mm line width.
Regarding Large Nozzle, How do you remove cura support from damaging the object?
Quentin Rufin Go to preferences, search for the support settings and enable all. Either increase the distance from the object or the pattern :)
ya the only pla I have ever needed to print at higher then 200 C is the pla from Matter Hackers love the other filament though
Yea, When I heard him say 250C for PLA, I'm going, dang with my .4 nozzle 190C has been plenty. Never used Matter's filament though.
I’m trying to print with a 1mm nozzle w a Bowden extruder. At 250C of 260C I get great adhesion. My problem is line thickness goes from thick to thin while printing. It seems like the filament stepper pauses then starts again. Thus I get inconsistent lines. If I back the filament almost all the way out of the Bowden and then run a print, the printer feeds filament which hasn’t reached the nozzle yet. In this situation the stepper seems to feed filament thru the Bowden consistently.
Do you have any thoughts on how 8 can get uniform lines?
250 its too high
Liked and subbed. I'm a newbie. Just got an Ender 3.
Hi,
let's say I will print with a 0.8 mm nozzle. For my Prusa MK3 I have to set the wall line to 0.85 mm. But my object has some details with only one wall lone of 0.6 mm so smaller than the nozzle diameter.
What do I have to do? Normally I have to set the wall line same or x1.25 higher than nozzle diameter but if my object has only one line details which are smaller than the diameter I will get a gab. I could change the nozzle to 0.6 mm or to change the outer wall line to 0.6 mm. I didn't find someone with same problem.
Look how good looks yuor model in the Cura sliced view, its a physical thing that yuo can not print a little detail little than the line with (try to draw a 0.1mm line with a 1mm pen , its dificult)if yuo want to preserve small things Change to a litle nozzle
Just printing with 1mm nozzle. 0.6 mm layer height, 50 mm/s speed, 215ºC hotend temp, ERYONE rainbow PLA. Works like a charm. The only problem I can see is the huge gaps where the z-seam is. Anybody would know what to do about that? Thanks.
Does your extruder retract in those spots?
Which printer can take a 1.2 nozzle? I have a Sunlu S8 and I am considering an Artillery X2 Sidewinder
I print with 0.8mm and 1.2mm nozzles,. and I had to DECREASE my temp from 245 to 235 when I print with petg.... though my speed is 20mm/s
What about lager nozzle and ASA?
I'm having bubbles and irregular extrusion after switching to 1mm. It's as if the filaments were humid (maybe they are?) but they were printing fine on the stock 0.4 nozzle.
Deshidratet yuor filament in a Drybox first (bluble explosions are typical from humidyty in the filament)
What about getting retraction right is it possible to stop ooze with 0.8 nozzle size?
Do a retrac test , test and calibrate extrusion first , do an extrusion line with test
250C for PLA?? I've been doing 210 lately, and I thought that was pretty high. 185 just sounds silly now. lol
Its all depend the "speed yuo print " and thats mean the flow rate of plastic extrusion , its very high for "ender3 bowden Clones (yuor boden tube gone burn and go understruding or clog) , but it can be done with an all metal extruder
Have a question if I buy 3d printer could I print big block that link together take bunch and build a home out those block if so what would be the best printer for that kinda projected ?
I can take a 0.8 nozzle, for print fast but I want with high efficiency and good finish.
I am new to 3d printing, and I am miserable failing. I switched my 0.4 to a 0.6 nossle and the PLA isn't sticking to the bed. Sometime it doesn't even come out. I tried to adjust the level (Z) but couldn't see any improvements. Trying a higher temperature now, but feels sad right now
lol, forgot to set the nossle diameter in cura... it was still set to 0.4...
@@y.5107 good to hear you figured it out
For sticking , i use a glass.bed and hair spray , hair spray us the best for pla , for abs i use sitck glue in bars
Where can I get the file for that astronaut?
www.matterhackers.com/store/l/matterhackers-mascot-phil-a-ment/sk/M6DV4FS2
can this be done without the volcano modification?
Yes
Yuo can just change the nozzle for a biger one, the volcano have a bigger flow rate
Wolverine called and wants his chops back! Great video. Thanks!
Can i run 0.4mm nozzle on the volcano?
Yes
@@XenonLining so what the downside compare to the regular v6 heatblock? In a different words why not everyone buy the volcano?
@@yehonatanbellaiche9359 size and cost
@Skyler Shaffer yes, and you can print faster with it -- but you get a bit more oozing, so downside is that it's typically harder to tune the retractions
One wasn't told here. Retraction. my biggest nightmare is retraction and stringing with bigger nozzles :(
first print with a .8 nozzle... nothing but extruder clicking! what is the problem?
well my dumb ass didn't pay attention and grabbed a .2mm nozzle and the gcode was trying to push out 4x that amount. oops... lol
Big nozzle give you Much stronger parts too.. but best at 50% nozzle size to layer height. So 1mmm to 0.5 layers.
I'd #prototype at flat-out spped - 500% if all you need to do is see the part - and no infill (1%) with 3 shells, 3-4 top layers.
^^ those will fall to pieces but give a test part in no time, even with a 0.4 at 0.4 layers.
lmao that heart of darkness
I don't have a volcano, but I do have a 1.2mm nozzle
what? . . 250 . . 215 max with pla even at 85 mm per second
NICR BEARDB🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😱😱
VIEWERS TAKE CAUTION: running a hotend at 250c and up risks outgassing from your PTFE with TOXIC GASSES. At a minimum would be using Capricorn PTFE.
Don’t self ur self short u disappointed a lot more people than just yourself jk
Amish man 3d prints.
If he dropped the chops and got his eyebrows done he would look really good. Like... Bro, love yourself man. A little bit of effort will go a long way on you, dude.
These vids never help
Very informative video but i just can't like or subscribe with that terrible facial hair
Thats a really minor thing lol
Youre gonna expect to be looking at not super models on these videos but that hardly matters as the true topic is the 3D models they show you along with useful information. To me he is concise and his voice is clear with good video quality and the cleanliness is a plus. But hey if facial hair or a tattoo bothers you too much you do you I guess