Baseline timing doesn’t have an impact on power. Total timing and when it comes in does, you want 34-36 degrees total and sooner. If you had 18 initial and factory settings in dist, then you had 18+23 = 41 total timing = too much. You tune this based on the springs and bushing in your distributor. Get an MSD ready to run, get the lightest springs (small grey) and the thickest bushing (black). This brings on total timing sooner and tightens the timing curve, so you can have more initial to help get your engine snappier sooner. And keep totals timing at that 34-36 where it’s happy.
@@hotrodray6802yeah, but in general if you're not running an extreme high rpm motor his recommendation is good. I have my distributor locked out on my 331.
Awesome! Mr Andy you are an inspiration to us all. I mean it. I watch your videos and I work on my 66. We live in great times and are truly blessed. Ill tell you a little story. I went to buy some parts and told the clerk the car and year, his face lit up and said " its my dream to work on a classic mustang ". What struck me the most about his reply was he said " work " not drive. Its true, when you work on these cars its something else. Anyways Mr Andy keep up the good work. God bless
Air filter and base. A drop air filter base will make more power, it's been proven many times on a holey carb. A 4" 14" air filter with this drop base is the best combination for what you have, as an under hood air intake sorce. The snorkel style 2, 4" hose fresh air, air intake is better especially in hot weather locations. Kind of like the thunderbolt drag cars. I've had many small block fords in 1966 through 1969. Some fox bodies. You have done a great job with this car. It shows. Congratulations on a killer car. It must be a blast to drive. My experience is from experience. Also, your head combustion chamber design along with piston top design and compression height, compression ratio fuel, temperature, weight, ect all play a factor in total timing. I believe those heads with a flat top piston may only need between 28 to 32 degrees of total timing. I ran a set of TFSR R heads from BTR with flat top pistons and 26 degrees of total is all they wanted. Their was a dip in power at 28 then back up at 30. So 26 is what it wanted.
Good gains. I can tell you how to time it. I’ve done this myself (mechanic). First thing is the timing mark on the pulley or the pointer can sometimes be out. You can work out TDC by putting something in number 1 plug hole and going one way until it touches and other way until it touches and then mark halfway between. That’s real top dead centre. In the end what matters is the timing at each rise in rpm. So using a dyno is the best. At full throttle with dyno controlling the rpm let the engine up by 500 rpm at a time so let’s start at say 2000rpm full throttle dyno holding revs you adjust the distributer to get the max power at that rpm. Note that timing eg best power is at 13 degrees at those rpm, then 2500rpm do the same it might be 14 degrees, 3000RPM same might be 16 degrees etc. you end up with a graph of the best timing, a curve for each 500rpm. Then you change the advance weights and or springs to make your distributor match that curve. (I know you can go an electronic dizzy with computer controlled timing, but I’m talking to suit these old engines as is) So in the end your distributor advance curve matches your best power through all rpm. Of course you then need the mixtures to be set for the best power too. This will give you the best power from your engine. Now air can be oxygen leaner or richer depending on altitude and conditions so in my opinion once you get the perfect timing curve worked out I would knock it back 2 degrees as a safety margin for variations in fuel and air quality so it doesn’t ping or knock when the octane or air is a bit off or hotter etc. The vacuum advance is just there to improve fuel economy as when not at wide open throttle the timing can be advance some without the engine knocking and that is what it does. Remember back in the day some cars were faster than others while all completely stock. This tuning whether on purpose or by accident is why some were much faster than others. It is how you make the most of your car. Fine tuning timing and mixture. Engines feel crisp and responsive, just really alive when this is done right.
Great Numbers. I just finished my 347 last night that’s going in my 65. I used a OE roller block with a set of AFR 165 heads and a Lunati 218/228 536/536 on a 112 HR with 9.75-1 compression. I know the heads are a little small but I already had them. I’m hoping I’ll be around 385-400 CRANK HP maybe 340 or so at the wheels. I love your car sweet ride!
I’m building the same combo 302 roller weisco forged pistons scat forged crank scat forged h beam rods ARF Renegade heads the next step up from your heads a slightly bigger Roller cam which puts the compression at about 10.85 my machine shop builds a lot of race motors Brian’s saying it’ll be slightly over 500 horsepower at the crank I’m shooting to make over 400 at the wheels . It’s going in my 65 coupe . You’ve been a big inspiration Andy . I’ve bought your adjustable throttle linkage from you last your year . Btw you’ve been bitten pal you’ll be chasing the power brother . 👍
A 347 is in the near future for my foxbody. I prefer N/A power otherwise I would supercharge what I have. Its already a roller block, and a 347 seems like a cost effective choice.
Yeah, I’m trying to dance that line of getting a performance oriented filter, but check the aesthetic box at the same time. I may be forced to go down that path if I want that extra 5hp. 😁
My Chrysler 383 hit 455hp and about the same torque on the engine dyno. I have no idea if it can pull these numbers to the rear wheels. Very impressive for sure.
Good video Andy....I'm running a 302 roller cam with steel crank and 8.5 compression with a blower, Fords H/P aluminum heads with headers H.I. ignition in a 1926 Ford Model T.(show car) If I was to Dyno test it I don't believe it would make quite the H/P you got, maybe close but doubt it. Well Done!
When it comes to carbs, it's not that the filter is restrictive. What's happening is the abrupt 90deg direction change causes the carb inlet itself to artificially act smaller. Without the filter it mostly funnels straight in. If you use a tall velocity stack shaped base on it, you'll pick that 5hp back up plus some - but obviously need to ruin the look of the car to do so.
Great video! I have a 67 I’m working on right now. Have a 351w I’m rebuilding and it’s at the machine shop now. It won’t let me post the link, but google search edelbrock air filter and check out the triangular one. It’s low profile and wide open mesh, without a solid metal top. I had one on my last 65. Might give you good flow.
Running 69.50 in primary jets with a 289, I have modified J code 4V 302 heads they have larger Ferrea stainless steel high flow valves with stock A code flat top pistons, my cam is a Mega 285 108LC with .512 lift or .551 net lift at the valve seat. I'm running a 78 as my secondary with a modified Holley 1850 600CFM main body has 3310-1 metering plates on it, and center pivot floats, and the 3310-1 750 base plate. I'm run 14 degrees initial, with 32 total with no vacuum can all in by 2500rpm. I've been thinking 28-30 degrees total might be better but has not been on the dyno yet. Using a blue printed Carter mechanical M60454, my factory pump could not keep up with higher rpms.
So you are not running vacuum advance on your distributor? If it’s a street car I would. Better signal to the carb and you won’t have too much of your transfer slot exposed which makes carb tuning next to impossible.
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 I set my transfer slots square, any extra air I needed for idle I just drilled holes in the throttle plates idle mixture screws are 1.5 out. I get about 11" vacuum at idle with this ISKY cam, I have no power brakes so not a issue to begin with. I could hook it up, but I have a 4 speed 3.54 gears so most of the time I'm above 2500rpm so 32' degrees. I get about 18mpg with this set up freeway, might be able to get 20ish with the vacuum can hooked up say 5' more degrees, but the cam is pretty hot already that much advance really unnecessary. Camshaft LC really dictates a lot here, the cam I have is a bracket cam likes to be rev'ed up.
Andy, I LOVE this car. I have a '66 GT350 tribute that needs some serious body work. While that is being done, trying to figure out the drive train. Your build is almost identical to what I was thinking. Anything different you considered? Mechanical distributor, vacuum vs. mechanical secondary carb, roller cam vs flat tappet (probably obvious one here). Appreciate any thoughts here. Otherwise, great video. One of the very best I've seen. Maybe I'm sentimental about fastback Mustangs, but I say bravo!
Thanks! My engine build is at the point where the cost to performance ratio for alternate parts is difficult to justify. I could probably eek out another 20hp with $3k-$5k worth of bolt on parts, and that's hard to want at this point. If I open up the engine, then that ratio gets a little better, but it'll still be expensive. Good luck on your rebuild. :)
do the roller cam and lifters. I did a flat tappet and it didn't make it through the break in. spend the extra money on the link bar roller lifters, it's worth it, or get a roller block and start from there.
Should this be similar to SBC 383 Stroker where they have to clearance either or both the Rods or where they would hit the block ? I can buy a 383 prepared Stroker engine . Could I do the same with 347 Stroker engine ? Asking for a friend !
Correct, the bottom of the cylinder sleeves needs to be modified for the rods to clear. Some shops offer a 347 short block ready to go, then the fun begins, picking all the go-fast bits for the inside. :)
My 347 is also a scat forged rotating assembly, afr 1388 185s , comp cam xe282hr .565 .574 and around 10.5:1 compression 750 carb air gap intake. The car rips. I want to get it on a dyno this year. Pretty good numbers there. I tune with an a/f gauge and check the plugs.
I'd love to get our cars together........your finished car is very close to mine. My motor is rated at 300HP and with the 2.79 rear gear is MORE than fast enough for me. Thanks
Yeah, 300 is plenty for most people, you're less likely to get in trouble. As I get older, I think about those things since my right foot doesn't always seem to follow what it should be doing. :)
I got the same displacement in my 65 I with a stroker but it has dart heads, It originally dynoed with 491 horse power with a Holly 750 double pumper. The car seemed to have too much gas, as it was hesitating when you mashed down the pedal. I sold off the 750 and went with a 650 Holly. It ran much better no hesitating any longer. Is the 750 really needed for a 347?
@@gordocarbo I believe the 650 DP would be better performance wise, but unless you know someone that can tune it it's a mystery getting it set up. Holly carbs don't come pre tuned for any car engine. So I went with the diaphragm secondary's. Ran well out of the box with minor adjustments.
The front rollers are disengaged from the Dyno system for a RWD car, so it’s important that the car that the car is secure and tying to the front wheels is an easy way to keep the car from moving.
Long road to get there but you hung in there and did it. Congratulations! Now don’t touch it haha enjoy and work on the truck! Haha jkjk I know we can never stop
@@LennyAllen-zw6wg In that scenario, while the engine is outputting a ton of torque, the gears inside the transmission are already spinning, so slapping it into the next gear won't put the torque on the gear teeth like dumping the clutch from a stand still. On my shifter assembly, I have 'stops' in place to keep me from over-shifting into each gear and busting the shifting finger or shifting lugs when I'm banging through the gears. These transmissions can stand a lot of abuse, but there is a limit and I'm probably pretty close to it with the amount of torque my engine is now generating. The next step is a TKX transmission, hopefully that's a project for next year. :)
at first I thought that was kind of low, but then I realized it was hp at the wheel, and you're well over 400 at the crank. don't get into to much trouble haha.
its not the initial timing that makes the peak horsepower. its about the ignition timing curve. lets say you have initial of 10 and youre total timing is 32 you can also put initial on 18 and change the timing curve(race distributor) so you get tesame 32 total timing for peak horsepower but the 10 to 18 initial timing will give you a snappier throtllre from idle. i have a 331 stroker with 10.5/1 compression and a pertronix billet distributor where i can change the timing curve(how fast it gives total timing) i have 18 initial and 32 total in at 2500 rpm . my idle with vacuum advance (manifold ) is at 28 and cruise is at 42 so i can burn a leaner mixture of +-15afr. nice to see that youre engine gives you more power then you payed for 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel It's amazing Ford didn't drop a 347 EFI into the Foxbody Cobra and claim the King of the Hill Crown back in the early 90's. Enjoy the beast.
Air gap performer rpm would be best 1500-6500rpm, this motor made peak at 6400. Vic JR intake is 3k-7500, the hydraulic lifters he has don’t go that high.
@@AndyKruseChannel .. that case, just run a Holley Fuel Injection outfit .. ditch the Hydraulic Lifters & Cam for Mechanical, run a Mallory Ignition, & put a Supercharger on it .. 😏🚀🚀😼
Baseline timing doesn’t have an impact on power. Total timing and when it comes in does, you want 34-36 degrees total and sooner. If you had 18 initial and factory settings in dist, then you had 18+23 = 41 total timing = too much. You tune this based on the springs and bushing in your distributor. Get an MSD ready to run, get the lightest springs (small grey) and the thickest bushing (black). This brings on total timing sooner and tightens the timing curve, so you can have more initial to help get your engine snappier sooner. And keep totals timing at that 34-36 where it’s happy.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel 👆 🎯💯. He knows exactly what he’s talking about!!!
Depends on the heads, chambers,compression ratio.... Doesn't it??
@@hotrodray6802yeah, but in general if you're not running an extreme high rpm motor his recommendation is good. I have my distributor locked out on my 331.
Sorry, that's not 100 accurate. My 331 made more power and way more torque at 40 total than 34. It was in early, but my heads loved Timing.
I lOVE HOW YOURS TURNED OUT, HAD MY SUNBEAM TIGER FOR 48 YEARS, SO I GET IN IT, AND I AM 26 YEARS OLD AGAIN.
Yeah, these cars keep us young. :)
Awesome! Mr Andy you are an inspiration to us all. I mean it. I watch your videos and I work on my 66. We live in great times and are truly blessed. Ill tell you a little story. I went to buy some parts and told the clerk the car and year, his face lit up and said " its my dream to work on a classic mustang ". What struck me the most about his reply was he said " work " not drive. Its true, when you work on these cars its something else. Anyways Mr Andy keep up the good work. God bless
Awesome! Thanks for the support! Hopefully you’re able to pull a nugget or two of good info from my videos. 🙂
VERY cool, congrats man - it's taken a lot to get here. Now drive and enjoy (and post some vids of it rippin!)
Thanks! Will do!
347 Stroker is fun. Had one in my 67 Fairlane. Killer sound. 🤘🤘🇺🇸🇺🇸
Yeah, it has been a blast so far. 😁
Air filter and base. A drop air filter base will make more power, it's been proven many times on a holey carb. A 4" 14" air filter with this drop base is the best combination for what you have, as an under hood air intake sorce.
The snorkel style 2, 4" hose fresh air, air intake is better especially in hot weather locations.
Kind of like the thunderbolt drag cars.
I've had many small block fords in 1966 through 1969. Some fox bodies.
You have done a great job with this car. It shows.
Congratulations on a killer car.
It must be a blast to drive.
My experience is from experience.
Also, your head combustion chamber design along with piston top design and compression height, compression ratio fuel, temperature, weight, ect all play a factor in total timing. I believe those heads with a flat top piston may only need between 28 to 32 degrees of total timing.
I ran a set of TFSR R heads from BTR with flat top pistons and 26 degrees of total is all they wanted.
Their was a dip in power at 28 then back up at 30. So 26 is what it wanted.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Great looking car! Well done!
Thanks!
Dude! I’m so happy for you! That is tremendous. What a great motor motor🤘🤘🤘🤘 so epic to see your 66 coming together 🤙🤙
Thanks!! :)
Good gains. I can tell you how to time it. I’ve done this myself (mechanic). First thing is the timing mark on the pulley or the pointer can sometimes be out. You can work out TDC by putting something in number 1 plug hole and going one way until it touches and other way until it touches and then mark halfway between. That’s real top dead centre. In the end what matters is the timing at each rise in rpm. So using a dyno is the best. At full throttle with dyno controlling the rpm let the engine up by 500 rpm at a time so let’s start at say 2000rpm full throttle dyno holding revs you adjust the distributer to get the max power at that rpm. Note that timing eg best power is at 13 degrees at those rpm, then 2500rpm do the same it might be 14 degrees, 3000RPM same might be 16 degrees etc. you end up with a graph of the best timing, a curve for each 500rpm. Then you change the advance weights and or springs to make your distributor match that curve. (I know you can go an electronic dizzy with computer controlled timing, but I’m talking to suit these old engines as is) So in the end your distributor advance curve matches your best power through all rpm. Of course you then need the mixtures to be set for the best power too. This will give you the best power from your engine. Now air can be oxygen leaner or richer depending on altitude and conditions so in my opinion once you get the perfect timing curve worked out I would knock it back 2 degrees as a safety margin for variations in fuel and air quality so it doesn’t ping or knock when the octane or air is a bit off or hotter etc. The vacuum advance is just there to improve fuel economy as when not at wide open throttle the timing can be advance some without the engine knocking and that is what it does.
Remember back in the day some cars were faster than others while all completely stock. This tuning whether on purpose or by accident is why some were much faster than others. It is how you make the most of your car. Fine tuning timing and mixture. Engines feel crisp and responsive, just really alive when this is done right.
Thanks for the heads up.
Awesome, great engine build and work you’ve put into it. Badass cruiser 😎
Thanks 👍
Dude!! Those numbers are crazy good! Love the adjusting carb jets to spot any difference, great vid 🤘🏼
Thanks Angel! :)
Andy if you're happy I am happy too
Nice!
The car sounds amazing!!!
Thanks!
Man im here to tell you she sounds good and 380 Hp is plenty to put down nice video
Just enough HP to get in trouble. :)
Great numbers Andy!
Thanks!
Andy you are the best! Your car is exquisite. What a journey you have taken. I appreciate the content as I am restoring my own '66 fastback.
Wow, thank you!
Awesome results! Tuning helped you with a better AFR, less timing, and more power. Win-win-win. Nice torque curve too.
Thanks 👍
Wow letter perfect vintage look. Love it!
Thanks so much! 😊
Great car, Andy! Looks like we're practically neighbors too. It would be fun to meet up and get a closer look at your car. 👍
Yeah, I think we're on the same end of town. We've probably seen each other at the local car shows and didn't even realize it. :)
Looking sweet.
Thanks 👍
Very impressive! Very cool content!
Thanks a lot!
Great video Andy thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Great Numbers. I just finished my 347 last night that’s going in my 65. I used a OE roller block with a set of AFR 165 heads and a Lunati 218/228 536/536 on a 112 HR with 9.75-1 compression. I know the heads are a little small but I already had them. I’m hoping I’ll be around 385-400 CRANK HP maybe 340 or so at the wheels. I love your car sweet ride!
Nice! You'll probably hit 400 crank. If not, we know where to buy more parts! :)
Beautiful sound! Great job on the build too, I’ve used a lot of your experiences while I’m working on my 66
Awesome! Thank you!
Great Power and She Sounds Great Well Done 👍 👌👍👌
Thanks! :)
Impressive amount of horsepower at the rear wheels, Scat Forged Crankshafts are the best.
Yeah, but now the bug has bit, I think I want more..... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Why, that's plenty of horsepower? I guess you can install a Supercharger.
I’m building the same combo 302 roller weisco forged pistons scat forged crank scat forged h beam rods ARF Renegade heads the next step up from your heads a slightly bigger Roller cam which puts the compression at about 10.85 my machine shop builds a lot of race motors Brian’s saying it’ll be slightly over 500 horsepower at the crank I’m shooting to make over 400 at the wheels . It’s going in my 65 coupe . You’ve been a big inspiration Andy . I’ve bought your adjustable throttle linkage from you last your year . Btw you’ve been bitten pal you’ll be chasing the power brother . 👍
@@leofrac435 Sounds like it's going to be a screamer!! :)
380 after heat soak, that's great! Congrats Andy!
Thanks! :)
Congratulations Andy. Man, that's awesome. Not even sure if my Mustang could turn those heavy rollers lol.
Well, I know we can fix that. :)
Awesome! I was looking forward to this video since your Instagram post!
Haha, yeah, I keep watching it and I was there. :)
A 347 is in the near future for my foxbody. I prefer N/A power otherwise I would supercharge what I have. Its already a roller block, and a 347 seems like a cost effective choice.
Yeah, it's a great build. :)
K&N makes a filter top increasing flow. Seems Ford`s like ported vac for vacuum advance while some Chevy`s like manifold vacuum.
Yeah, I’m trying to dance that line of getting a performance oriented filter, but check the aesthetic box at the same time. I may be forced to go down that path if I want that extra 5hp. 😁
My Chrysler 383 hit 455hp and about the same torque on the engine dyno. I have no idea if it can pull these numbers to the rear wheels. Very impressive for sure.
Nice. :)
that almost exactly matches the 2012-2013 BOSS 302... well done..
Nice. :)
Good video Andy....I'm running a 302 roller cam with steel crank and 8.5 compression with a blower, Fords H/P aluminum heads with headers H.I. ignition in a 1926 Ford Model T.(show car) If I was to Dyno test it I don't believe it would make quite the H/P you got, maybe close but doubt it. Well Done!
Sounds like a great car!
Suggests for future improvements, high back bucket seats and shoulder belts.
Yes, new seats are on my list. :)
Impressive numbers Andy!
Thanks!
I had a 347 in a 92 thunderbird. Never had it dynod but it definently rolled.
It’s fun to know the power numbers, but it doesn’t make the drive any better. 🙂
When it comes to carbs, it's not that the filter is restrictive. What's happening is the abrupt 90deg direction change causes the carb inlet itself to artificially act smaller. Without the filter it mostly funnels straight in. If you use a tall velocity stack shaped base on it, you'll pick that 5hp back up plus some - but obviously need to ruin the look of the car to do so.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Nice job
Thanks!
Andy it looks good and drives well
Thanks!! :)
Love the car thanks for showing the Dyno nice horsepower
No problem 👍
Love it Andy, one nice Mustang!
Thanks 👍
Interesting. Chasing the dragon. I like it.
Ha, feels like I'm chasing my tail. :)
Well worth the money output. Imo
Agreed! :)
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video! I have a 67 I’m working on right now. Have a 351w I’m rebuilding and it’s at the machine shop now.
It won’t let me post the link, but google search edelbrock air filter and check out the triangular one. It’s low profile and wide open mesh, without a solid metal top. I had one on my last 65. Might give you good flow.
Yeah, finding the balance between air flows and looks is not easy. :)
Gorgeous Car
Great street engine combination 👌
Thanks! :)
Running 69.50 in primary jets with a 289, I have modified J code 4V 302 heads they have larger Ferrea stainless steel high flow valves with stock A code flat top pistons, my cam is a Mega 285 108LC with .512 lift or .551 net lift at the valve seat. I'm running a 78 as my secondary with a modified Holley 1850 600CFM main body has 3310-1 metering plates on it, and center pivot floats, and the 3310-1 750 base plate. I'm run 14 degrees initial, with 32 total with no vacuum can all in by 2500rpm. I've been thinking 28-30 degrees total might be better but has not been on the dyno yet. Using a blue printed Carter mechanical M60454, my factory pump could not keep up with higher rpms.
Wow, sounds like a nice setup. :)
So you are not running vacuum advance on your distributor? If it’s a street car I would. Better signal to the carb and you won’t have too much of your transfer slot exposed which makes carb tuning next to impossible.
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 I set my transfer slots square, any extra air I needed for idle I just drilled holes in the throttle plates idle mixture screws are 1.5 out. I get about 11" vacuum at idle with this ISKY cam, I have no power brakes so not a issue to begin with. I could hook it up, but I have a 4 speed 3.54 gears so most of the time I'm above 2500rpm so 32' degrees. I get about 18mpg with this set up freeway, might be able to get 20ish with the vacuum can hooked up say 5' more degrees, but the cam is pretty hot already that much advance really unnecessary. Camshaft LC really dictates a lot here, the cam I have is a bracket cam likes to be rev'ed up.
Outstanding!
Thanks!
Andy, I LOVE this car. I have a '66 GT350 tribute that needs some serious body work. While that is being done, trying to figure out the drive train. Your build is almost identical to what I was thinking. Anything different you considered? Mechanical distributor, vacuum vs. mechanical secondary carb, roller cam vs flat tappet (probably obvious one here). Appreciate any thoughts here. Otherwise, great video. One of the very best I've seen. Maybe I'm sentimental about fastback Mustangs, but I say bravo!
Thanks!
My engine build is at the point where the cost to performance ratio for alternate parts is difficult to justify. I could probably eek out another 20hp with $3k-$5k worth of bolt on parts, and that's hard to want at this point. If I open up the engine, then that ratio gets a little better, but it'll still be expensive.
Good luck on your rebuild. :)
do the roller cam and lifters. I did a flat tappet and it didn't make it through the break in. spend the extra money on the link bar roller lifters, it's worth it, or get a roller block and start from there.
Dream car.
Agreed. :)
Love it!
And it didn’t cost $500k
Ha, don't tempt me! :)
Should this be similar to SBC 383 Stroker where they have to clearance either or both the Rods or where they would hit the block ? I can buy a 383 prepared Stroker engine . Could I do the same with 347 Stroker engine ?
Asking for a friend !
Correct, the bottom of the cylinder sleeves needs to be modified for the rods to clear. Some shops offer a 347 short block ready to go, then the fun begins, picking all the go-fast bits for the inside. :)
Beautiful car! Enjoy.
Thanks! Will do!
I hope you figured out that your interior light was on, with a dead battery you won’t have any horsepower. Enjoyed the video!
What?
@@AndyKruseChannel i guess that's a reflection i'm seeing, looks like a light in the sail panel.
Hi Andy ! Great HP Power! Can you possibly tell me the Cam and Size Heads you used?
Cam is the Trick Flow Cam, "Track Max", stage 2, part number 51403002.
Heads are the AFR 185cc w/o EGR.
Thanks Andy! I have a 347 Stroker with 185 AFR Heads and with Comp Cam with 545 Lift and you have about 50 more HP. Great Build.
My 347 is also a scat forged rotating assembly, afr 1388 185s , comp cam xe282hr .565 .574 and around 10.5:1 compression 750 carb air gap intake. The car rips. I want to get it on a dyno this year. Pretty good numbers there. I tune with an a/f gauge and check the plugs.
@@6spd85notch Sounds like we're pretty much twins (Cam is similar), so at least you have a rough idea of what you're making. :)
Nice garage.
Thanks!
I'd love to get our cars together........your finished car is very close to mine. My motor is rated at 300HP and with the 2.79 rear gear is MORE than fast enough for me. Thanks
Yeah, 300 is plenty for most people, you're less likely to get in trouble. As I get older, I think about those things since my right foot doesn't always seem to follow what it should be doing. :)
I got the same displacement in my 65 I with a stroker but it has dart heads, It originally dynoed with 491 horse power with a Holly 750 double pumper. The car seemed to have too much gas, as it was hesitating when you mashed down the pedal. I sold off the 750 and went with a 650 Holly. It ran much better no hesitating any longer. Is the 750 really needed for a 347?
Yes.
agree the 650 DP is plenty for the 350ish size.
@@gordocarbo I believe the 650 DP would be better performance wise, but unless you know someone that can tune it it's a mystery getting it set up. Holly carbs don't come pre tuned for any car engine. So I went with the diaphragm secondary's. Ran well out of the box with minor adjustments.
Getty up! Look at the pony run!
I'm happy, let's gooo!! :)
Just curious from an idiot here. Why are the front wheels tied to not go backwards if the car is going forwards on the Dino. Thanks.
The front rollers are disengaged from the Dyno system for a RWD car, so it’s important that the car that the car is secure and tying to the front wheels is an easy way to keep the car from moving.
Long road to get there but you hung in there and did it. Congratulations! Now don’t touch it haha enjoy and work on the truck! Haha jkjk I know we can never stop
Ha, it's a disease, I can't stop wanting more!! :)
Andy what is the model number for the front directional lights you used on the new front scoop?
Sorry Boss, I am not understanding which part you are referring to.
@@AndyKruseChannel The front parking lights you used with the shelby racing valance.
@@paulgermain9094 They're the standard lights, I pulled them from my other bumper. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the info. keep up the good work.
Awesome Andy!! How big is your smile??
Some say it's still going. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel No doubt!! 😁
Wondering if that t-5 is going to hold up
It will, as long as I don’t spend my afternoons doing 5k clutch drops. 🙂
@AndyKruseChannel Im talking about speed shifts, foot to the floor while shifting and nitrous on top of that?
@@LennyAllen-zw6wg In that scenario, while the engine is outputting a ton of torque, the gears inside the transmission are already spinning, so slapping it into the next gear won't put the torque on the gear teeth like dumping the clutch from a stand still.
On my shifter assembly, I have 'stops' in place to keep me from over-shifting into each gear and busting the shifting finger or shifting lugs when I'm banging through the gears. These transmissions can stand a lot of abuse, but there is a limit and I'm probably pretty close to it with the amount of torque my engine is now generating. The next step is a TKX transmission, hopefully that's a project for next year. :)
Wouldn’t a 351 Cleveland be a better choice ? Tell me why ?!?
Not in this car, the heads are too big and then it causes fitment issues with the headers and the shock towers. :)
You can get more power with a Victor Jr or Parker intake
You buying? :)
at first I thought that was kind of low, but then I realized it was hp at the wheel, and you're well over 400 at the crank. don't get into to much trouble haha.
It's still too much power, I'm going to get in trouble some day. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel too much power? I remember a video where you said 400hp is just right for a mustang. Haha.
Did you talk to epc racing up there at all?
Sorry, I don't know who that is.
its not the initial timing that makes the peak horsepower. its about the ignition timing curve. lets say you have initial of 10 and youre total timing is 32 you can also put initial on 18 and change the timing curve(race distributor) so you get tesame 32 total timing for peak horsepower but the 10 to 18 initial timing will give you a snappier throtllre from idle.
i have a 331 stroker with 10.5/1 compression and a pertronix billet distributor where i can change the timing curve(how fast it gives total timing)
i have 18 initial and 32 total in at 2500 rpm . my idle with vacuum advance (manifold ) is at 28 and cruise is at 42 so i can burn a leaner mixture of +-15afr.
nice to see that youre engine gives you more power then you payed for 🙂
I wonder how much extra power I got from the Air Gap intake, too bad I won't know. :)
it is the most beautiul car in the world😍😍😍
Thanks. :)
awesome,im happy for you Andy.Great mustang!!! what part of Washington are you in ? Looks like the east side. im in western Oregon.
Thanks! :)
Great news in the HP. Question on the center stripe, did you get it painted on?
Yes, body stripe is painted, rocker panel stripes are stickers. :)
Hey Andy nice video.......what did your 'total' timing number end up being?
Thanks!
32-34, I don't recall, I filmed this 6 weeks ago. :)
380 RWHP is amazing when you consider that's more than a C4 LT5 ZR-1
Not only is it more, the car also weighs less than that Corvette. I'm down for a race. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel It's amazing Ford didn't drop a 347 EFI into the Foxbody Cobra and claim the King of the Hill Crown back in the early 90's. Enjoy the beast.
You would make alot more power with a Victor Jr intake and afr 205's.
Cool, I can send you the address where you can have them delivered. :)
205s are way too big for a 347. 185 would be much better
Air gap performer rpm would be best 1500-6500rpm, this motor made peak at 6400. Vic JR intake is 3k-7500, the hydraulic lifters he has don’t go that high.
@@boss9mustang404 that’s why his peak Tq RPM comes in late, perfect for a drag car.
Was it me or did it sound like your engine was ticking when he was checking the timing
Yes.
put it on a hub dyno and you might find more H.P. the old style dynos have too much wheel slip and are not accurate anymore !
Cool.
What distributor are you running?
stock-style unit, nothing fancy.
How much did it cost you for the conversion and transmission?
Over $10k
@@AndyKruseChannel what parts did you get besides the trans and engine, did you have to change the suspension?
I have a whole UA-cam channel that will answer your questions. :)
What was your total timing at what rpm?
32-34, I don't recall, I filmed this 6 weeks ago. :)
A 150 shot of nitrous would be a nice addition
Don't tempt me! :)
the car of my dream that will never come true😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Prioritize your goals, you'd be surprised what you can acheive. :)
Just skip to 14:48
Nah, gotta watch the whole thing, at least twice. :)
my dream car😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Hard work pays off. :)
For air filter 2 words……. Salad Bowl
Nah, I'm not much of a Salad guy. :)
9 Minutes of my life is totally wasted . But good HP😊
Don't worry, I've got nearly 500 videos on my channel that is guaranteed to waste more of your time. Be sure to watch them all at least twice. :)
@@AndyKruseChannelI will , when im 70 and got all the time in the world. 😊
Is there a single person in the world that does not like Wimbledon White. If there is that persons opinion is a non factor
Truth.
All this effort to get smoke by a young dude at a red light driving 2011 or newer mustang gt. 😂
Right, because that's all that I care about?
.. i'd try a bigger Carb .. 👨🔧🧰😼🚀
Cool, I take Venmo and Paypal. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel .. that case, just run a Holley Fuel Injection outfit .. ditch the Hydraulic Lifters & Cam for Mechanical, run a Mallory Ignition, & put a Supercharger on it .. 😏🚀🚀😼
@@WillKlaver Sounds like it's time for me to send you my Venmo and Paypal info. :)
.. & i'd give her a Good Washing, too .. 😏🧼🧽🚿 @@AndyKruseChannel