Quick repair for Yamaha keyboards/stage pianos with GH (GHE) action
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2019
- Quick repair for Yamaha keyboards/stage pianos with GH (GHE) action. For broken keys, non-responding keys, etc. Includes P90, P200, P250, CP33 CP300, etc... NOT MOX8 or GHS action
Thank you very much.Today I repaired Yamaha s90 in your way. It has same key system.So I challenged. Actually only one key was too sensitive. Your way solved that. Now I living very far from your country,Japan,Ishikawa prefecture. This is the lucky thing. Very amazing! Now I’m enjoying playing my S09.Thank you,Mr.Baldwin.
Extremely well explained - thanks a lot Tod
This video is worth solid gold! Thank you.
Best video on UA-cam explaining this, wish I watched this one first!
Very well done. I can tell you have a lot of practical experience.
Just took ownership of a P90 which had a long life. This video is a lifesaver. Truly a great explanation of everything I can do to fix it up.
Excellent instruction. It saved me lots of grief and made it easy.
This is so helpful. I’m digging into my CP300 now that we’re past the toddler years. I found a tiny plastic straw and nickel. Yay.
Thank you so much for the great video. I was going crazy trying to take the some keys out to clean. Keep up the great work. God bless.
i used to use a pencil eraser to clean off the pads and contacts. never used alcohol on them. worked for me every time. used to work at a repair shop.
Excellent video detailed and helpful -Thank you!
Un grand merci Tod ! Grâce à ton tutoriel, mon Yam CP4 de 10 ans vient de s'offrir une nouvelle jeunesse ! Contacts nettoyés, fini les problèmes de vélocité 🥳
I am going to fix clanking key note. This is very informative. Thank you very much.
This video is very helpful and informative. I got lucky with the P-200 I gave to my daughter recently; it must have just had some dirt or spillage jamming things up. In our case the middle C was not returning. The P-200 service manual PDF was downloadable online for "free", and page 5 gave the 4 screws needed to open it up. Once open I called my daughter in just to look at the insides, and she noticed 2 metal "tangs" in back of the keys that were not seated at the bottom of the key bed as all the others were; it turned out that the C# was also sticking. I found the arrow on the middle C key and slid a knife between the keys where the arrow was pointing and released the key. The back of it came up, but I couldn't remove the key entirely as something seemed attached to the front and I didn't want to break anything. So I started looking into pulling the front plate off, but before I got to doing that I accidentally popped the key back into place while fiddling with it, and after that it no longer stuck. I checked it and C# a few times, and it all seemed ok. I grabbed a can of spray duster I had for my computer builds and sprayed between, behind and in front of the keys, checked it again and closed it up. If it sticks again anytime soon I'll come back and update this. I think some other poster said that he bought a replacement key and ended up just needing to clean some things; it looks like that's what was up with ours. Because of work and other life issues, I didn't think I really used mine enough for anything to wear out, but I'd thought my oldest girl may have busted it by dancing on it when she was really little. If yours hasn't been on the road under heavy use, it's probably worth a try to just open it up and do a little clean up.
I really like watching your video 😘👍👍👍💯
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to get a guitar pick out that was jamming one note.
Yep. One of the most-common "repairs" I make. You would be shocked at how many boards that come into my shop with that exact problem!
Very good job!
You are a great man Mr. Tod!!! I know have the knowledge just need to head to Lowes for that Dremel!!
Thanks man! Solved my problem!
You mentioned not using alcohol for cleaning the board contacts, and that's reasonable advice. A quality non-residue cleaner like Deoxit works really well for this, it removes dirt, carbon and oxidation. Also, for the carbon contacts, rather than replacing those expensive membranes that have worn carbon, you can paint fresh new carbon over top of the old worn carbon contacts, I use CaiKot for this and it works extremely well.
Good advice
Informative video. Thank you!
great video!!! thanks for this!
Great video, thanks!
Hi Tod - Great video. I have two white keys next to each other that get stuck and don't always come up and stay slightly recessed. The problem is that I live in Kenya, which is a beautiful place to live, and worried about spare parts not being available... I am certain there must be dust inside the board because when we have our two dry seasons, there is always dust in the air. Further, the six-year olds are still forgetting to cover the keyboard when they are finished playing.... And this old geezer always forgets.... So I will carefully follow your instruction and hopefully that should take care of things....
THANK you.
Bravo!
Hello Tod and thanks for the videos. I cleaned a lot of sticking keys today. The ones that stuck worse really shows up when you apply a little side way movement with your finger instead of perfectly straight up and down. I also roughed up the upper cushion that had grooves in them from years of use. Everything is working much better now but do you think I should take the rubber contacts out and clean them it's never been done or should I wait till 1 key stands out from the rest in velocity. By the way do you know how much velocity sensitivity (1-127) you get out of a fully functioning CP33?
Thanks your video saved a CP300.Any hacks for fixing a broken cover hinge where the screws have broken out of the plastic?
Thanks for this video, Tod. I have a lightly used CP300. Recently, the A and Eb keys went silent in each octave above middle C. Before I start dismantling the instrument, I wondered if you could advise on a fix. Given that this all started at the same time and it's in specific, separated keys on only half of the keyboard, I wondered if this was a software issue rather than a mechanical one. I tried the factory reset by restarting while holding down the highest key ... no luck. Any suggestions?
Very thorough explanation.
My problem is with a Yamaha W 5 Workstation. I just replaced two keys ( one missing F# and one broken D ) The F3 key depresses , but, with difficulty as does another key that I noticed when checking for the same problem before re - assembling the keyboard. All of the other keys have a good / similar action.
Any ideas come to mind on how best to repair this difficult action problem ?
Hi Tod, great video! I have a problem where when the rubber pads make contact with the circuit board, it doesn't make a sound, but if I move the rubber pads a few millimeters up, then it works, I have tried different rubber caps from another part of the keyboard, same result. Any ideas? Thank you
Hi-the back black runner strip on which the keys sit with kinda pigeon holes has broken so about 4-5 notes are jammed or dead on my CLP 860. Could this be mended or is it a write off?THX
Great instructions! I would add that if a black key is wiggling back and forth it is not broken. When you remove the key there is a plastic fitting that just came off the post that that comes into the middle of the key as a guide. Just put it back on the post. Also, contact strips have 12 contacts. 88 does not divide evenly by 12 so you have to cut one. Be sure they fit around the small posts....
I have this problem on a CP1 (black key wiggles from side to side) big decision is do I try fix this myself, would the instructions apply to the CP1 also?
This is like med school for keys.
You can use paper, works really well! Just take a sheet of paper, put the carbon rubber thing on it, press and drag short till the glaze is gone!
It works, but the paper has a little too much friction. It wouldn't take much pressure to completely wipe the carbon off the contacts. The nice thing about the rubbing alcohol is that it provides a little bit of lubrication, but more-importantly, will wash away any of the bad stuff on the contacts. It's kind of like sharpening a knife with water.
Hi, I have my S90 es apart trying to replace a couple of key hammers. Can't figure out how to get them in our out. The keys are no problem but cannot figure out the key hammers. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks
Very informative. Thanks Tod. I’m having overly bouncy keys and sensitivity issues on some keys of my Native Instruments S88 Mk1 controller. Any idea on what to fix? I believe it’s the felt strips and also dirty sensor/contacts strip on some keys esp the white ones. What kind of felt strip fits this board and what should I focus to fix if you have any idea? Thanks!
Sounds like the action is very worn and needs a complete overhaul. Very extensive and time-consuming. Sorry I don't have a video on this.
My P200 is on "permanent sustain". It acts as if the sustain pedal is depressed even when there is no pedal. Could this be a menu setting, or am I in for a repair?
thankyouuu
Hi Tod, great video. I have this issue on two keys. Drives me nuts. I also have two keys that stick down. This keyboard was purchased about 1998 I think and these problem started about two years ago....but the biggest issue that I've been dealing with for about 10 or more years is the buttons 5 and 6 do nothing when pressed. These are the buttons that select the voices E.Piano1 and E.Piano2. The voices I don't care about. What the real problem is that I can't use these buttons to control the LOCAL MIDI control and CS/FC control. Does anyone know if this is a contact problem or a motherboard/PC board issue? After watching this video I'll be for sure taking this keyboard apart to fix the key problem but while I was in there I was hoping to fix the button issue too. Thanks guys for any information on this.
Hi... This video is very good. I Need your help with a keybed Yamaha P80. I have a P80 piano but doesn't work because the keybed chassis is broken. All other keyboard parts work. I need the keybed chassis plastic for this piano (p80). Can you help me to find it ? Thank
Hi thanks for the great vid. I have a very annoying clack sound when I release (not when press) f# and g# in the middle of the keyboard of my CP33, do you think it is easily fixable? thanks.
Yes.
Hi Tod…great video ..could you tell me if the Yamaha PF-500 is the preferable GH ACTION ? And are the parts available to replace a few keys..thank you 🤝for your time
Not familiar with the PF-500. Sorry. :-(
Hi, Todd, this was helpful, but we don't have this kind of board. Do you have a tutorial for replacing a CEGB set of keys for the Yama PSR models? They aren't individual and the black sets sit on top of the white sets.....
Hi. Unfortunately, I can't help you. The PSR series are general consumer models (not professional) that usually get trashed before they get repaired, so I've never had the pleasure of trying to fix one. That said, if I had to guess, I'd bet the keys are the same as the GHS actions where they are grouped together and "sandwiched" together. They are a pain to work on and/or replace. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Hey Tod, the keys on my CP33 are way heavier than an acoustic piano. The previous maintenance may did that. Is there any way to lighten they?
Sounds like the springs were reversed or someone used the wrong lubrication.
Do you have any advice on fixing action on my Yamaha CP-4? (NWGH action). A couple of my keys are doing the "full velocity" glitch when you barely touch them.
Same exact procedure.
Great video Tod... I do have a question that came to mind though. I have a CP300 with noisy keys. I believe the felt pads are worn out. I was wondering if you have a video that would detail that exercise, or how much of this video, or to what point in this video, would be applicable to replacing those pads. Lastly, since I am taking the keyboard apart to some extent to do the felt pads, I was wondering if it is recommended to do the carbon pad and key cleaning, as shown in this video, as a preventative maintenance exercise. I bought the keyboard new just over 10 years ago and have not done any type of maintenance or repair to it. The only issue I am aware of at this point is the noisy, thumping keys when they are depressed. Thanks in advance for your reply. Chris
I have the same question except it's my P200 and it's not so much the initial strike thump, but a half-beat, back slap sound when the key recovers after the strike. The downward thump at the strike is not too bad because it accompanies the exact, same time as the strike, but the aftershock sound is unbearable when teaching a Skype lesson.
You just need to replace the felt. It is either worn out or it has completely broken through. I don't have a video on it, but it is pretty straight-forward as far as replacing it is concerned.
Hello, I guess it isnt possible to put a GH keybed into a keyboard with GHS keybed installed from factory?
Great video! I notice you didn't include the CP4 as an included keybed. I'm having some sensitivity issues in the middle of the piano. Any reason why your video might lead me astray, or did you just omit the CP4 because it's so like the CP40?
The CP4/40 is almost exactly the same. You just need to be careful because Yamaha cheapened out on the newer boards and the CP4 is made of more plastic. Stripping screws out is a thing to be aware of. Good luck.
@@todbaldwin4664 thanks so much for the reply. Really great video! After six or seven years of play the action on my cp 4 has gotten kind of thunky. Do you think the felts might need replacing, or is it something else?
Hello Tod.
I have a PF-1000 with a key problem. The keys are getting stuck. I had some keys replaced 2 years ago, but now I have another key stuck.
Any thoughts?
Um... get it repaired again?? It's a common problem
my girlfriend just got a Yamaha cvp 70 as a gift from a friend whose father passed away (it was the father’s) it has 2 “loud” keys I’d like to fix for her.. do you know if it has this type action or if there’s any extra thing to know before I attempt to dive into it? It seems really hard to find anything on youtube in regards to this particular model but the keys are sold individually online. I haven’t seen the carbon pads online anywhere specifically for this model though
I am not for sure, but I am pretty confident the keys are the same, thus the repair would be as well. Good luck.
Thanks for showing the detail on how to replace/repair.
By the way, I feel that the key are not so firm in the center/middle of my keyboard (Clavinova CVP 409) and I wonder if just reverse the key spring is enough instead to replace them.
Could you please advise?
Thanks
You can try it, although the "feel" will be off. You will also have a hard time seating the spring correctly under the keys because the curvature of the spring will be backwards. I'm anxious to hear how it goes.
@@todbaldwin4664 Thanks Tod, for this advise. I will maybe order a new set of spring, but it's quite expensive, not justified according to what it is out of factory.
Hi. I need your help with a Keybed chassis for yamaha p80
Although videos shows P-70 has GH/GHE I have one and unfortunately it's GHS. ( I've opened it already) :-(
Hi... What about yamaha S80 I cant replace or remove keys.. Help
Hey Tod, could you offer a video, or instructions for repairing an MX88. Certain individual keys play at MAX volume even when barely pressed. Also, where can I get replacement contacts if needed? Thanks!!!
The MX88 repair is extensive and a pain in the ass. Do a search for "Yamaha Keyboard Parts" and you will find several suppliers
Hi Todd I still have a little stiffness in one B note in the middle and I once read where the front grey rubber post can swell with age and hang up the key a little and to use an exacto knife to carve off a tiny sliver to free it up. Have you ever run into this problem or would you not recommend this action? Thanks Dave
David, yes, I have experienced that many times. Shaving off the sides, while a little barbaric, actually works well. Just be very careful not to take off too much or the key will have travel from side-to-side. You don't want that. Good luck
@@todbaldwin4664 Maybe I will use a toenail file instead. Thanks Tod
Hi Tod I finally got around to cleaning the contacts in my cp-33 it was very hard trying to get the rubber contacts to stay in place while trying to put the circuit boards back in. I was going nuts until I thought to tie all the counterweight arms in the keyoff position or up which really helped. It gave me just a little extra room to squeeze those 3 boards in. I don't know how dirty they were but at least I cleaned the imprint from the circuit board contact point that were on the carbon contacts in the rubber boots. Thanks Dave
Hi Tod another problem on the far right keys near top (last 7keys) noise when releasing keys. I took one of the keys off and the noise went away pressing it down from inside which rules out cushioning right? It's perfectly quiet without key connected. Ever encounter this? Thanks Dave
Hi, thx for your great video. We have a Yamaha stage CP 33, all keys make very long tones, like when you press the pedal, always long tones, so it sounds crazy, when you wanna play a melody because the tones do not stop. The crazy thing is, when you press the pedal and stay on it, the tones are totally short. Do you have any idea, how to repair this? Thx in advance!
The polarity is backwards on your sustain pedal. Flip the switch on the back of it.
So cool, thx!!!! 🙏
3:57 Hi, do you think the key weight is come from the metal rod or spring? If I cut off a little bit the end of the u-shape rod, cut every rod to different length, from the low key to high key, long to short, is possible to mimic linear weight key like acoustic piano?
I think you're on your own. If you think you know something hundreds of well-paid Yamaha engineers haven't figured out after six generations of this action being used in dozens of keyboards, more power to you. Let me know how it works out.
@@todbaldwin4664 actually yamaha have linear key weight for expensive model. But i never have chance to see inside and how it works.
Why would you want linear key weight? From wgat I know, most acoustic pianos have graded hammer weight, lighter at the top of the range.
@@townnet Incorrect. They are all graded weight.
Does anyone know a European store where i can purchase a GHS octave?
I don't know if here is the best place to ask this question but as this video is so good and in depth details, let's try... I've hurd GHE is lighter than GHS and may be more suitable for a mix of piano and synth use. May I ask you if that is true ( in relation to modx8 vs Montage 8) that use GHS and GH respectively? Thank you.
No, the GHE action is much heavier. Mostly because the keybed frame is reinforced with steel. Also, the keys are larger underneath. I don't know who told you that, but they were wrong.
@@todbaldwin4664 I actually key action not the keyboard weight it self, like how much force you have to apply on the key to depress it. In that case, could you tell if it is lighter? Thank you again
is there a meaningful difference between GH and GHE? Is a used Cp33 a good buy as a controller in 2021?
For what it’s worth, I’m about to grab one secondhand for $600. It will be my master board
Will this work for a Yamaha CP4 with loose black keys and oversensitive white ones?
Yes
Could you give us some info about the sticky lubricant used under the keys?.... sometimes gets hard and is the reason for sticking. What alternative is available?, how to clean the green lubricant if we should at all.
You can use a white lithium grease after cleaning the green stuff off. I've also used waterproof bearing grease for bicycles with success. You just want to make sure that whatever you use is safe for plastic.
Thanks Tod... answers appreciated!
Help anyone. I fix the sticking key and I used too much WD40 and now the middle C is dead. I was thinking to use rubbing alcohol to dry it out.
Hi I have a some problem in my digital piano the g key seems fine but sometimes it produce no sound and sometimes it's okay if I press the key repeatedly the keys sometimes not working. Any suggestions on how I fix this problem?
Yup. You should probably watch the video above.
what about the CP4,is it the same as CP40?
Yes. Similar
I'm in the middle of cleaning our 20-year-old Clavinova with the same key design when I watched your video. The green lubricant under the keys seems to have somewhat hardened which (I think) is the reason the keys aren't returning quickly when you let off your finger. I applied some Super-Lube synthetic grease I had, and it seems to be worse. I will have to clean each bar. What do you suggest? Thx, and great video!
The lubricant might be part of the problem, but without looking at it directly, I can't tell you for sure. You need to be carefull with the lubricant you chose because some petroleum-based lubricants will eat plastic and nylon. Usually a high-quality lithium-based waterproof grease works well and can be found at a good bicycle shop. Good luck.
Hi Tod I have a question. Yesterday I removed all keys from my yamaha p-155. After cleaning I assembled all keys. Everything works, keys are moving up and down smoothly, sound is ok also. But all keys are moving slightly back and forward. There wasn't such problems before. Could you help me to solve it?
Zihermp, without actually looking at it, I'm not sure what to tell you
I had the same problem after reassembling my p90. I ended up taking the keyboard apart again and see what I did wrong. The keys have this connection point where you click it into the frame, and I didn't click them in far/deep enough. So the "knuckle" as Tod names it isn't seated correctly.
Edit: forgot to mention you have to slide them in forward for the spring to settle.
@@isuckharderthanlife5413 Glad I could help. :-)
@@ayrow69
Actually your video says it all, looking at it I remember how hard it was to get it right. And after the first succes you slide & click all 88 of them into place in no time like you do. You really do help!
5:40 ----- replacing is a good idea. These remote control type pads are trouble waiting to happen. They definitely have a life-time as we all know. Cleaning 'might' help to start with. But eventually --- cleaning is going to be irrelevant when the regular wear and aging has destroyed the film that is meant to be electrically conductive. And the various tricks such as using graphite/pencil rubbing or conductive 'paints' ---- are unreliable methods. That is, they might temporarily seem to work as a fix ---- but quirky glitchy behaviour will generally result when going down that path. Replacing with new pads is the way to go. But - also - it's unfortunate how we're still stuck with this particular conductive pad 'technology'. On the other hand - it's the probably the best they can do - when factoring in price, affordability etc.
Me a power-tool-&-piano. That's a recipe for disaster . . . Thanks
I would also do all this rather by hand. I wouldn't do it very often so I take my time. And especially with the rubing pads I would be very careful.
i have a weird problem on my yamaha. (GH action) sometime pressing some keys at an angle (force key to left or right) the key is resist and difficult play. i remove the key and attach again, problem solve. is it lubrication problem?
Read the comment below from David. There's a good chance the rubber guides under the keys have swollen a little
@@todbaldwin4664 omg I never paid attention this guides. just clean and re grease without taking out. next time i will take out and examine.
When I press power button on my Yamaha PSR I455 Keyboard, the LCD comes ON and goes OFF when I release my finger from power button..It's not booting up..i.e.not showing any letters on display..
1. checked my adapter with multimeter.. it seems ok..
2. checked with batteries..Issue is same.
3. No issue with fuse..
4. No issue with power button
Could anyone please help
Power board on the inside is bad
P-120 isn’t part of that group shown in the beginning?
It is. I just forgot to list it
@@todbaldwin4664 thanks for replying. Do you think there’s a way to lighten the key tension? I use the “soft” setting, but it still has more tension than I’d like
Hi, how can i fix the yamaha dgx660?
Please helpme
Well, first I should probably use my psychic powers and determine what's wrong with it since you left me such a great description as to the issues it is having.
Wait... I don't have psychic powers. Sorry I can't help you.
@@todbaldwin4664 Well, you're right, to begin with I have lost all sensitivity in C # 5, and it only sounds when it wants, if I play chords of more than 4 notes in each hand it sounds like an arrhythmia, mixing the sounds of the notes played and they sound too insensitive.
yamahs psr 180 doesn't work. can u help
Not without a description or explanation of what is wrong. Did you plug it in? Did you turn up the volume? Is there gum on the keyboard? Did you spill a beer in the keys? Did you drop it off the back of a truck? I have no idea.
@@todbaldwin4664 last time I used it was 5 yrs back. That time it had a noise mixed. And then I didn't use it at all. I tried increasing and decreasing volume, All keys. Not even a single sound comes. One of the bus cable is loose. Didn't spill anything on it.
Nice video, but I would opt to use one Q-tip for each set of contacts. Using that same powered cleaner tip must be carrying crap for one set of contacts to the others. Time is not as important as a thorough job.
Phyl, I appreciate your response, but you sound like someone who has never attempted this kind of repair. Using a Q-tip might sound like a good idea, but it would take hours, if not days to do the same thing that you can do using a rotary tool, which would take less than an hour. Furthermore, I repair several of these boards every month and I have never had to re-repair a board a second time due to failure of this technique.
I find this video of yours irritating. You talk about how to use the card to free the key, but you don't actually SHOW US what you're doing.
Yeah, in the distance we see hand with card. We needed more than that.
I realize you're not a video production specialist, so you don't understand how important it can be that you SHOW folks what you're TALKING about.
I haven't been able to make a credit card do the unlocking of keyboard keys you claim, yet.
We think you're just doing some kind of year round April fools stunt. Way to go. You got us.