One thing I find difficult when weathering prototypical is lack of pictures. This one is of the car 9 years ago. It's too bad there is not a more recent photo to go off of. Never the less, car turned out quite nice. Fun to watch. I have always been more of an either / or when it comes to pastel and powders. Next time I do this, I will try using the two.
Thanks for the video Dan... The top halo effect was exactly what I was looking for to do on these tank cars. I thought about air-brushing it on, though I'm still pretty new to air bushing. I'll give the powders a try.
Just discovered your channel, a lot of good work here!As a tip, I used to use the same exact brand of chalks but found they didn't stick or cover well compared to dedicated powders made by brands specifically for weathering. They may be expensive but they last longer and work and look better. They also stick to paint so the would blend in your panel lines nicely.
This is a really good tutorial, I really like the way you make your safety stripes. I noticed that you didn't use an airbrush at all for this project.... very helpful (both videos)
Awesome work Dan. I really enjoyed watching this. I do have a question.. I know you dull coat the model at the start, but why don't you give it a coat after you did everything to help seal it and prevent any of the effect rubbing off from being constantly handled?
To answer your question, I handle my cars from the trucks, or the corners as to not rub off anything. I sometimes add clearcoat over my work but I find with cars, primarily weathered with chalks that they almost always will dull out, or almost completely disappear when clear is applied over it.
In this case, no I didn't. I won't if there is quite a bit of powder work done to the car. However, in most cases, I seal up my paint work and then apply chalks or powders, that way they don't dull down or disappear completely, as a result of clearcoating.
DansRailroad2011 how are the chalks and powders sealed to the car then without them coming off when you pick the car up or move it with your hands? I thought the dull coat keeps the powders from being accidental removed from the car
Dan love these detailed tutorials. Car turned out fantastic. Thanks for taking the time
. Much appreciated.
Dan you're a great artist. Really well done and very instructive! Thanks - Dean
Dan: Thanks for sharing and all your efforts - looks good...
Nice job. Thank you for taking the time to film your "how-to".
One thing I find difficult when weathering prototypical is lack of pictures. This one is of the car 9 years ago. It's too bad there is not a more recent photo to go off of. Never the less, car turned out quite nice. Fun to watch. I have always been more of an either / or when it comes to pastel and powders. Next time I do this, I will try using the two.
Thanks for the video Dan... The top halo effect was exactly what I was looking for to do on these tank cars. I thought about air-brushing it on, though I'm still pretty new to air bushing. I'll give the powders a try.
The halo is important to making these look right, but don't forgot to darken those panel lines!!
+DansRailroad2011 Indeed... I think I'm going to try to experiment with a wash for the panel lines.
Your work is great! I am going to try a number of your methods!
Just discovered your channel, a lot of good work here!As a tip, I used to use the same exact brand of chalks but found they didn't stick or cover well compared to dedicated powders made by brands specifically for weathering. They may be expensive but they last longer and work and look better. They also stick to paint so the would blend in your panel lines nicely.
Great work Dan. RT
This is a really good tutorial, I really like the way you make your safety stripes. I noticed that you didn't use an airbrush at all for this project.... very helpful (both videos)
great video, very nice.
Awesome work Dan. I really enjoyed watching this. I do have a question.. I know you dull coat the model at the start, but why don't you give it a coat after you did everything to help seal it and prevent any of the effect rubbing off from being constantly handled?
To answer your question, I handle my cars from the trucks, or the corners as to not rub off anything. I sometimes add clearcoat over my work but I find with cars, primarily weathered with chalks that they almost always will dull out, or almost completely disappear when clear is applied over it.
Top job!
Have u ever weather bottle cars and slag cars for a company like stelco
Lol I now own this tank car!!
Hey. Would you use the same technique as this if you had the black painted molten sulfur tank car?
What's the difference between using weathering powders and pastel chalk??
do you apply the chalk while the paint is still moist?
What brand/type/colors of powder do you use?
+U.P. railfan The colors I have are Medium Rust, Light Rust, Chalky White, and Soot Black. These colors are made by AIM products.
Do you dull coat after you finish weathering?
In this case, no I didn't. I won't if there is quite a bit of powder work done to the car. However, in most cases, I seal up my paint work and then apply chalks or powders, that way they don't dull down or disappear completely, as a result of clearcoating.
DansRailroad2011 how are the chalks and powders sealed to the car then without them coming off when you pick the car up or move it with your hands?
I thought the dull coat keeps the powders from being accidental removed from the car
a man nices job a im going to make a vido maybe it could help u a little
omg... TWO people voted this down... REALLY?!?!??!??!?