Don't let the rickety construction of this lock fool you, this design is nothing short of excellent. I don't think you see the significance of those three little detents in the core next to the pin holes. You see, the T-pins must be engaging with that if you don't pick them deep enough to get past that wafer under them, so they can clear the detent. I was actually thinking about designing a system just like that but apparently I was beaten to it. Another way do do it is to have regular or perhaps spool pins, and have the little nipple on the wafer, so they trap themselves if picked too far. A mixture of both is probably one of the most secure pin-tumbler locks you could build, I think.
ManWithBeard1990 I was about to comment the same thing all you need to do is put the detents on both sides and it works perfectly and those are probably what stopped this pick right in its tracks. It would be interesting to see a manufacturer putting out lock cores with the detents pre milled so some random things pins and wafers could be dropped in for security purposes without it being known which if any pins have to be double set so to speak.
If I'd known where my Dremel was last weekend, I had been considering doing something similar with a Kwikset I have lying around, but with a couple of tweaks. I was going to extend the holes for pins #1 and #3 slightly into the warding, and cut those two spots in the key to "eleven". Further, I was going to swap the wafers and T-pins for high-cut positions and shape the notches to catch the former. If the core can turn far enough to hold the wafers for high-cut positions in place even while pins for low-cut positions are raised beyond the shear line, that will make picking much easier than if the low-cut pins must be locked in position before the high-cut ones can be set.
I was going to build basically the same thing, I saw a video a while back about a trap lock to grab the crazy ex's key and realized it'd be a great anti pick measure. Actually I think I've come up with a way to do it without a wafer though, I'm going to have to dig out my mini mill and have at it the next time I'm home.
+ManWithBeard1990 I was thinking of doing the same thing! +Flat Finger Tuning "and cut those two spots in the key to "eleven"." A #11 cut on a Kwikset? That's almost completely cut! O_O
+bosnianbill That pin stuck to the tailpiece, before it broke off, caught on the groove in the PVC pipe to keep the core from being removed and the handcuff being opened. It was held in place with superglue. I should have known that you would try to use a bump hammer and used solder on the back pin. Also, the reason that the core only turned 45 degrees is that the t-pins on pins 2,3, and 6 caught into the notches on the plug.
Thor Lancaster, actually, instead of gluing or soldering... how about drilling, tapping, & running a stud into it ? just a grain of salt, on the world that is food for thought.
Hey bill. I don't think you get defeated by the side hole. I think you got defeated by the wafer plus little T-Pin. The tip of the tpin engages with the trap holes on the core The t-pins where in hole 2, 3 and 6. When you look at the core you have the grooves/trap holes next to those pins. If you pick to the t-pin shearline instead of the wafer shearline you will get trapped like you did.
It was not the sidepin that made the lock stop at a 45 degree angle. It was the second, third and sixth pin in the bible that did it. When bill picked those he did not push the wafers past the shearline and the tiny points on the pins slid into the holes in the cylinder. Thats why there was no holes in the wafers for those points to hold onto. Bill just "underset" pin 2,3 and 6.
Turbo Encabulator a T plus wafer construction gives you two shearlines, the key will use the lower one and a picker will get the top one. Which causes the trap to spring.
The T-pins are similar to a concept by LockPicking Lawyer. The side pin was there as an obstacle--essentially a form of movable warding, hopefully first in the binding order. You don't have to pick it, but the lock will only turn when the side pin isn't being pushed by a key or a pick.
Great design and locking system Thor! Great to see people actually making their ideas and not just saying ..."I had the same idea and was going to make one"... And no need to listen to commenters saying what they would have done to make it better... It's your lock design, and if you're happy with it..that's all that matters.. Great Job! I see how impressed Bill was with it.. (minus the excess grease..haha)
How did he miss that? Just look at the core and the order of the pins, and notice that each slot cut into the core, happens to be the same chambers that had the wafers, plus, I know I have seen locks do this before and I'm pretty sure it was Bill on his channel. He must have forgot and been distracted, or wanted a lot of people to leave comments on his video, haha.
As mentioned, the three grooves are a take on the classic "construction key" trap, but directional so that it is not a permanent trap but can be rotated back. I suspect if you picked it CCW they would do nothing.
Skwisgar2322 , something to consider... if the pin didn't snap off, counterclockwise picking would be blocked by the lack of groove in the pvc pipe. (in theory.. proper function)
I love the use of grease to mush up the whole lock, along with thin or weak springs. I imagine that really really makes it hard to feel what's going on, and makes things frustratingly slow to move around Inside. That side detent is kind of confusing, only seems like it would serve to trap the key inside the lock, because you got it into that 45 degree false set even without picking that side pin.
Those little pins you didn't quite understand were master wafers. The t pins above them got lodged in the little detents on the core. It's a brilliant system! It allows a full 45 degree tilt when picked and still allows a return to standard position. That was genius!
Well we really had some inventive minds working on lock's. Excellent build on that lock. You should pattern the idea. That's one secure core. Mr.Bill that was some alien technology for sure.
I believe the 45 degrees locking is due to the T pins engaging in the three holes on the right side, not to the side pin. The side pin seems to be there mostly to prevent bumping, or impressing, since not having the hole would push the pin to the outer shell and block the lock. Also picking to the left may lead a T pin into the side pin, so it would be end of game.
The side pin has a lip on it so that it can't be pushed into the plug. T-pins simply glide over it and don't catch. Picking this lock counterclockwise is (comparatively) easy.
Am I correct in thinking the side pin was intended as an obstacle (essentially as a form of movable warding)? Did you check whether the wafers can remain set while a key or pick is pushing on the side pin? I would think its effectiveness would depend upon its ability to prevent that.
I don't think it was sent to go all the way. He probably didn't know how to sweat the pin to the end stock. The pin was to hold the lock in the pipe and when spun to the right angle would have released the lock.
Looks like a fun relatively inexpensive hobby. I’ve seen so many of these I feel like I would know how to pick a standard lock. Need to pull the trigger and get some gear.
the whole lock is the locking mechanism, it slides out when it's "unlocked" the pin gave it a range of motion so it doesn't fall all the way out.. in theory
I’m a maintenance engineer. I tend to find these videos absolutely amazing. I’ve seen some stuff out there that will drive you mad. But this stuff is just cool.
lifelessdead89 the first time i heard somone tell me to smack the heck outta the tank to get the pump got the funniest look than a coffee on me when it worked...
I wonder if some of these locksmiths that come up with theses puzzle locks were reincarnated Aztecs or Egyptians! Lol! I keep waiting for a giant boulder to come into the frame
It would be very difficult to pick even knowing that three of the pins need to be intentionally overlifted. You would not know which pins they were on, and the wafers would have a pretty good chance of falling back down once you started on the spools. If you were doing a physical attack, you could break the lock with a screwdriver, but then again, it could be made of steel.
Actually, I think a better attack would be a plug spinner, which I would expect could defeat the side pins easily unless the lock included a "centrifugal catch". I think the tricky slots would make blind picking harder if one didn't know where they were, but I was curious about is whether the side pin would pose an obstacle to setting the side pin.
Flat Finger Tuning have a strong enough spring in one or more of your trap chambers - and no grease - and I think plug spinners might get caught as well.
Bad Juju I don’t think the cutout were big enough to trap a wafer but I see he thought of Bill not always following directions and placed traps on both sides though
Bad Juju the lock as a whole had - at least theoretically - a detent that prevented it from turning except in the unlocking direction. The fact that said pin was superglued on and broke under hammerblows is, well, clearly a significant security flaw - but I don’t think anybody looking at this, including the maker, was thinking “let’s see them try physical attacks against this! It’ll stand up to everything!”.
Bill seems like a stand up guy. Putting 100 layers of tape or shrink wrap on your keys is probably getting pretty annoying for the guy. Save yourself, Bill and the viewers some time and just cover the thing up with one layer.
To open it, he had to push all 3 wafers past the shear line; in other words - "overset" pins 2, 3, and 6 (These pins would be at random locations on a production lock). The small flint looking piece was originally attached with superglue until Bill smacked on the lock with his hammer. Its purpose was to prevent the lock from coming out of the tube until it was open.
Thor Thanks for that. I knew how the t-pin trap worked I just can't figure out how it would have "unlocked" the cuff if picked right. Would the whole lock still slide out like Bill got it to do with his hammer?
The lock would slide out of the tube, the balls would move aside and the shackle could then be removed. You wouldn't have to slide it out all the way though.
Does anyone know where I can get a plug follower like the one Bill is using? I'm using Sparrows resin one and I'd imagine it's a matter of time before it where's down.
I'm not a lock picker but this just seems pointless to me. It almost seems similar to me giving you the challenge of picking the lock on my front door to gain access but there's a brick wall behind the door. Maybe I'm wrong. I'm okay with that.
Uh... challenge locks are a competition between lockmaker and pickers, not between various pickers. It’s certainly possible to pick it, if you know which pins need to be set to the second shearline. Which means that it’s also *possible* by sheer trial and error once you know which techniques are being used. And yes, if you don’t know what you’re doing, you’re pretty unlikely to get it open.
A totally evil little lock that did a snowjob on you with its construction hiding some interesting features. Mr Lancaster should be very pleased with himself.
The Lock Picking Lebowski The side pin seats onto the hole in the key when inserted. This pushes out the pin just enough to clear its sheer line between core and bible. As for the three gouges, if you look at 16:46 you can see a wafer that fell on it's side and a t-pin (one of 3 like this), if you pick the wrong sheer line between the wafer and t-pin the core will turn 45 degrees until one of the points digs into one of the gouges in the core. I think Bill accidentally picked the side pin and got caught in 1 or all 3 t-pin traps on every attempt.
Why do I feel like meth was involved in the construction of this thing? Melted PVC pipe body, perhaps? Maybe the 4 layers of materials to wrap the key? Or maybe it was all the duct tape... But hey, function over form!
truly xxxxxxxxxxxxerlent I my self would of never suspected side pins or things I think u done very well bill by the way its me who u said do you need a hug I do now lol thanks stiglocks..r
I had the idea of a side pin (or more - two at odd angles) before I'd seen it here. The problem would be how to implement it, as I've never done anything with locks I felt it was best left to the professionals and good amateurs.
That's why I added the shackle, without it it'd look even more like a b0mb. With the shackle holes, Bill can see inside and see a piece of wood and 2 ball bearings, no C4 here.
Don't let the rickety construction of this lock fool you, this design is nothing short of excellent. I don't think you see the significance of those three little detents in the core next to the pin holes. You see, the T-pins must be engaging with that if you don't pick them deep enough to get past that wafer under them, so they can clear the detent. I was actually thinking about designing a system just like that but apparently I was beaten to it. Another way do do it is to have regular or perhaps spool pins, and have the little nipple on the wafer, so they trap themselves if picked too far. A mixture of both is probably one of the most secure pin-tumbler locks you could build, I think.
ManWithBeard1990 I was about to comment the same thing all you need to do is put the detents on both sides and it works perfectly and those are probably what stopped this pick right in its tracks. It would be interesting to see a manufacturer putting out lock cores with the detents pre milled so some random things pins and wafers could be dropped in for security purposes without it being known which if any pins have to be double set so to speak.
Yeah I was gonna reply with the same thing. It's a really smart design.
If I'd known where my Dremel was last weekend, I had been considering doing something similar with a Kwikset I have lying around, but with a couple of tweaks. I was going to extend the holes for pins #1 and #3 slightly into the warding, and cut those two spots in the key to "eleven". Further, I was going to swap the wafers and T-pins for high-cut positions and shape the notches to catch the former. If the core can turn far enough to hold the wafers for high-cut positions in place even while pins for low-cut positions are raised beyond the shear line, that will make picking much easier than if the low-cut pins must be locked in position before the high-cut ones can be set.
I was going to build basically the same thing, I saw a video a while back about a trap lock to grab the crazy ex's key and realized it'd be a great anti pick measure. Actually I think I've come up with a way to do it without a wafer though, I'm going to have to dig out my mini mill and have at it the next time I'm home.
+ManWithBeard1990
I was thinking of doing the same thing!
+Flat Finger Tuning
"and cut those two spots in the key to "eleven"."
A #11 cut on a Kwikset? That's almost completely cut! O_O
+bosnianbill That pin stuck to the tailpiece, before it broke off, caught on the groove in the PVC pipe to keep the core from being removed and the handcuff being opened. It was held in place with superglue. I should have known that you would try to use a bump hammer and used solder on the back pin.
Also, the reason that the core only turned 45 degrees is that the t-pins on pins 2,3, and 6 caught into the notches on the plug.
Thor Lancaster,
actually, instead of gluing or soldering...
how about drilling, tapping, & running a stud into it ?
just a grain of salt, on the world that is food for thought.
Thor Lancaster i
Thor Lancaster well done. That was a helluva lock you made
The tailpiece is too thin to put a stud through, I thought of that idea while building the lock. Good idea though.
I'm not into locks but yours is very cleverly made. Annoyingly clever apparently ;) good entertainment for us, that's a little bonus.
Hey bill. I don't think you get defeated by the side hole.
I think you got defeated by the wafer plus little T-Pin. The tip of the tpin engages with the trap holes on the core
The t-pins where in hole 2, 3 and 6. When you look at the core you have the grooves/trap holes next to those pins.
If you pick to the t-pin shearline instead of the wafer shearline you will get trapped like you did.
Tim Burton, Steven King and McGyver made a lock together.
It was not the sidepin that made the lock stop at a 45 degree angle. It was the second, third and sixth pin in the bible that did it. When bill picked those he did not push the wafers past the shearline and the tiny points on the pins slid into the holes in the cylinder. Thats why there was no holes in the wafers for those points to hold onto. Bill just "underset" pin 2,3 and 6.
I would think he did pick them past the shear line, that is what exposes the pins...
Turbo Encabulator a T plus wafer construction gives you two shearlines, the key will use the lower one and a picker will get the top one. Which causes the trap to spring.
The T-pins are similar to a concept by LockPicking Lawyer. The side pin was there as an obstacle--essentially a form of movable warding, hopefully first in the binding order. You don't have to pick it, but the lock will only turn when the side pin isn't being pushed by a key or a pick.
Was waiting for someone to mention this. It was called “How to pick-proof your Kwikset” or something like that.
I like it when people make their own locks like this
Great design and locking system Thor! Great to see people actually making their ideas and not just saying ..."I had the same idea and was going to make one"... And no need to listen to commenters saying what they would have done to make it better... It's your lock design, and if you're happy with it..that's all that matters.. Great Job! I see how impressed Bill was with it.. (minus the excess grease..haha)
Looks to me that the T pins would drop into the small holes adjacent to the pin bores and seize the core at 45 degrees.
How did he miss that? Just look at the core and the order of the pins, and notice that each slot cut into the core, happens to be the same chambers that had the wafers, plus, I know I have seen locks do this before and I'm pretty sure it was Bill on his channel. He must have forgot and been distracted, or wanted a lot of people to leave comments on his video, haha.
As mentioned, the three grooves are a take on the classic "construction key" trap, but directional so that it is not a permanent trap but can be rotated back. I suspect if you picked it CCW they would do nothing.
Skwisgar2322 ,
something to consider...
if the pin didn't snap off,
counterclockwise picking would be blocked by the lack of groove in the pvc pipe.
(in theory.. proper function)
true.
He could easily pick the lock CCW outside the tube.
I love the use of grease to mush up the whole lock, along with thin or weak springs. I imagine that really really makes it hard to feel what's going on, and makes things frustratingly slow to move around Inside. That side detent is kind of confusing, only seems like it would serve to trap the key inside the lock, because you got it into that 45 degree false set even without picking that side pin.
Those little pins you didn't quite understand were master wafers. The t pins above them got lodged in the little detents on the core. It's a brilliant system! It allows a full 45 degree tilt when picked and still allows a return to standard position. That was genius!
I'm so glad you explained this. I noticed those little pins matched up with where those detents were but I didn't know how they came into play.
I liked it when you resorted to hammering it. I bet you've felt like doing that on more than this lock ;)
It's just not Bill's day. Even the tape took a swipe at him! Well done Thor! And thanks to BosnianBill. Well worth the watch.
3:42 *CLICK!* "Very slight click." Loving the close up microphone.
I wonder what it would be like to attach a contact mic to the lock.
Propane
Something like a throat-mike, perhaps? That would be interesting.
Now we know your weaknesses, Bill, cleverly made t-pin traps. :D Now everyone will send those to you. :D
Well we really had some inventive minds working on lock's. Excellent build on that lock. You should pattern the idea. That's one secure core. Mr.Bill that was some alien technology for sure.
I believe the 45 degrees locking is due to the T pins engaging in the three holes on the right side, not to the side pin. The side pin seems to be there mostly to prevent bumping, or impressing, since not having the hole would push the pin to the outer shell and block the lock.
Also picking to the left may lead a T pin into the side pin, so it would be end of game.
The side pin has a lip on it so that it can't be pushed into the plug. T-pins simply glide over it and don't catch. Picking this lock counterclockwise is (comparatively) easy.
Am I correct in thinking the side pin was intended as an obstacle (essentially as a form of movable warding)? Did you check whether the wafers can remain set while a key or pick is pushing on the side pin? I would think its effectiveness would depend upon its ability to prevent that.
I don't think it was sent to go all the way. He probably didn't know how to sweat the pin to the end stock. The pin was to hold the lock in the pipe and when spun to the right angle would have released the lock.
Looks like a fun relatively inexpensive hobby. I’ve seen so many of these I feel like I would know how to pick a standard lock. Need to pull the trigger and get some gear.
Pro tip
Do not leave the cameras connected to the battery charger / power source unattended, as the LI-ION batteries might get dangerously hot.
it's spelled SEALED in english, not only in montana
the whole lock is the locking mechanism, it slides out when it's "unlocked" the pin gave it a range of motion so it doesn't fall all the way out.. in theory
I like how the gentile tapping gets more violent the less they are effective. LOL
Really cool and difficult design....built like a rickety child's fort.
Mr. Bill. Other than the awkward position, are there any other considerations to keep in mind while opening an upside down lock?
How do you spell sealed? I'm curious!
You spelled it correct.
Silled
seeled, ceeled, seled, kmrbe,... I was just screwing around.
Not much to do in Medicine Lake Montana in the Winter.
I want to know what chuck or collet people are using to hold those tiny pins when turning them.
Excellent security features, BTW!
Dremel, finger tight, or 3/32" collet
Wow, I was not ready for that intro. That was loud.
Can everyone just appreciate the UTTER GORE on his left index finger?
Are magnetic traps common?Too say that u need a magnet to pick as well as normal pick
I’m a maintenance engineer. I tend to find these videos absolutely amazing. I’ve seen some stuff out there that will drive you mad. But this stuff is just cool.
Repair procedure 101 if all else fails hit with the hammer
If all else fails? I always thought it was start with the smallest practical hammer and work your way up.
No, you start with a plastic faced hammer and work your way up in material hardness.
Slade Darklighter most definitely. It works on fuel pumps and starters
lifelessdead89 the first time i heard somone tell me to smack the heck outta the tank to get the pump got the funniest look than a coffee on me when it worked...
If in doubt give it a clout, if you’re sure hit it more
I wonder if some of these locksmiths that come up with theses puzzle locks were reincarnated Aztecs or Egyptians! Lol! I keep waiting for a giant boulder to come into the frame
Great job Thor. Great ingenuity.
Have fun putting that back together.
Crescent wrench or bar twist the wire I'll leave the picking for Bill
PS--I've been thinking of preparing locks with obstacles to picking. My question is: knowing what you do of the lock's design, could you pick it?
It would be very difficult to pick even knowing that three of the pins need to be intentionally overlifted. You would not know which pins they were on, and the wafers would have a pretty good chance of falling back down once you started on the spools. If you were doing a physical attack, you could break the lock with a screwdriver, but then again, it could be made of steel.
Actually, I think a better attack would be a plug spinner, which I would expect could defeat the side pins easily unless the lock included a "centrifugal catch". I think the tricky slots would make blind picking harder if one didn't know where they were, but I was curious about is whether the side pin would pose an obstacle to setting the side pin.
Flat Finger Tuning have a strong enough spring in one or more of your trap chambers - and no grease - and I think plug spinners might get caught as well.
my boy thor earned the paclock 😎
if the lock was picked opposite way would the wafers wedge in the cutouts?
Bad Juju I don’t think the cutout were big enough to trap a wafer but I see he thought of Bill not always following directions and placed traps on both sides though
No
Bad Juju the lock as a whole had - at least theoretically - a detent that prevented it from turning except in the unlocking direction. The fact that said pin was superglued on and broke under hammerblows is, well, clearly a significant security flaw - but I don’t think anybody looking at this, including the maker, was thinking “let’s see them try physical attacks against this! It’ll stand up to everything!”.
Unibomber type shit. I wouldn't have opened that package to be honest. lol
Looks to me like pins 2,3 and 6 have the neadle point to catch in the core on a false set, before the side pin.
With an extra load of grease..LOL
Otherwise, well done Thor. Just do not put a extra load of grease in your next one.
1:13 No Bill, that's how every state spells "Sealed". Sealad must be a DC thing...
I love the mic close like that. Sounds great!
You made me doubt the sealed spelling ! How does a Bosnian spell it ??
zapečaćen
Nice home made set-up! What's the tool called to remove the detente cap?
Haven't watched through the video fully, but I think that pin is just an anti rotation pin.
Still a better built lock than Master Lock.
Bill seems like a stand up guy. Putting 100 layers of tape or shrink wrap on your keys is probably getting pretty annoying for the guy. Save yourself, Bill and the viewers some time and just cover the thing up with one layer.
Yeah I kind of went a little overboard on the stay-mummed:)
Thor Lancaster
Question, how was the lock supposed to open if he HAD picked it and what was the small lighter flint looking piece taped to the back?
To open it, he had to push all 3 wafers past the shear line; in other words - "overset" pins 2, 3, and 6 (These pins would be at random locations on a production lock).
The small flint looking piece was originally attached with superglue until Bill smacked on the lock with his hammer. Its purpose was to prevent the lock from coming out of the tube until it was open.
Thor
Thanks for that. I knew how the t-pin trap worked I just can't figure out how it would have "unlocked" the cuff if picked right. Would the whole lock still slide out like Bill got it to do with his hammer?
The lock would slide out of the tube, the balls would move aside and the shackle could then be removed. You wouldn't have to slide it out all the way though.
Thor🔨 The God of Locks!
Thor needs to invest in a deburring tool.
Anyone just here for the ASMR tingles?
Nice try on a very imaginative lock!
LPL. I really enjoy watching your videos thanks Sir. How long have you been picking locks for?
Does anyone know where I can get a plug follower like the one Bill is using? I'm using Sparrows resin one and I'd imagine it's a matter of time before it where's down.
I'm not a lock picker but this just seems pointless to me. It almost seems similar to me giving you the challenge of picking the lock on my front door to gain access but there's a brick wall behind the door. Maybe I'm wrong. I'm okay with that.
Seems like he made it to where no matter who tried that it wouldn't be pickable. Idk. I wouldn't have called it a fair loss.
Uh... challenge locks are a competition between lockmaker and pickers, not between various pickers.
It’s certainly possible to pick it, if you know which pins need to be set to the second shearline. Which means that it’s also *possible* by sheer trial and error once you know which techniques are being used. And yes, if you don’t know what you’re doing, you’re pretty unlikely to get it open.
Bill, time to get a fresh can of Gunk Green. ;)
I just re-watched this pick and the second time, one thing kept popping into my head....your gonna need a bigger hammer lol
Jeremiah Kennedy Your comment should be pinned.
I think they spell "SEALED" the same way all over the country.
Both in the parts of the country called USA and those called Canada.
Bill defeated. Wow
Didn't want that key to escape did he?
Nice SeRiAL KiLler hA NdwriTiNg
Cool lock too !!!
I could smell the grease on his hands through my phone
Axle grease? And I whine about Dubbya D like a frustrated child. Nasty tho.
I have no idea how you even pick locks like that, it is the opposite to how I was taught.
Could u tell me where u bought your vise thxs mike
Ebay.
A totally evil little lock that did a snowjob on you with its construction hiding some interesting features. Mr Lancaster should be very pleased with himself.
That was really clever.
That is how you spell sealed.....
Well that's what I'd call a grease job.
I'm still confused about the side pin and extra holes in the core.
The Lock Picking Lebowski The side pin seats onto the hole in the key when inserted. This pushes out the pin just enough to clear its sheer line between core and bible.
As for the three gouges, if you look at 16:46 you can see a wafer that fell on it's side and a t-pin (one of 3 like this), if you pick the wrong sheer line between the wafer and t-pin the core will turn 45 degrees until one of the points digs into one of the gouges in the core. I think Bill accidentally picked the side pin and got caught in 1 or all 3 t-pin traps on every attempt.
The side-pin is only a key control pin.
Man if I saw that thing in the mail there isn't a chance in hell I'd touch it...
sticky, sticky, sticky...
It makes me laugh realizing BosnianBill refers to pointy things as a "tit" and he seems to say it every 5 or 6 vids
isn't that how you spell sealed ?
Why do I feel like meth was involved in the construction of this thing? Melted PVC pipe body, perhaps? Maybe the 4 layers of materials to wrap the key? Or maybe it was all the duct tape... But hey, function over form!
If at first you don't succeed grab a hammer and bang on it till it opens
Loki Lock
What microphone are you using?
A blue yeti pro.
bosnianbill Thanks for a quick response.
aint sealed spelled the same everywhere ? or was that a bosnian joke?
I'm ashamed to be a montanan today.
Good work.
The idea of the lock is good but the execution is bad
Just started lock picking for the first time this week. I am so bored with master locks already its not even funny.
truly xxxxxxxxxxxxerlent I my self would of never suspected side pins or things I think u done very well bill by the way its me who u said do you need a hug I do now lol thanks stiglocks..r
I had the idea of a side pin (or more - two at odd angles) before I'd seen it here. The problem would be how to implement it, as I've never done anything with locks I felt it was best left to the professionals and good amateurs.
A proTex and a... wut...?
Everyone please stop sending locks that look like b0mbs. Have to wonder if bb thought this was a pipe b0mb when he opened it
That's why I added the shackle, without it it'd look even more like a b0mb. With the shackle holes, Bill can see inside and see a piece of wood and 2 ball bearings, no C4 here.
Well if you did make this Props to you.. :D
Couldn’t you have used a spinner?
See AL led sealed
Vs spelling it how?
Cool intro
hahahhaha
Why did you move your mic bill? Bring it closer and rap away dude
hey, I have a monster lock for you coming soon, (you will hate it)
That is one ugly lock
What’s up with that third grade hand writing
Bill isn't very "l33t", I guess.
I think L33t Speak went the ways of the desktop calculator.