Dot & Dabbing Plasterboard ~ Extension Build #12
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2021
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seriously loving the "where's james" bit, silly but very funny and makes the video
'Where's James?.......... "Hello mate!". Absolutely love this!!! I'm hooked on each new episode 😅😅👍
Dot & Dabbing a bare block wall is very satisfying. It transforms the space, reduces the acoustics and makes the owner feel like things are moving along.
James just smiling all the time. How wonderful it must be to love your work - as he obviously does.
Wheres James... every time it kills me...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Fantastic series this, really enjoying it. Thanks all do appreciate it. 👍👍👍
Brilliant. Love watching your videos - informative and entertaining as ever. My kids did chuckle at "Where's James?"... and maybe I did too!
Haha, I love the "where's James" part :D
Nice job James, particularly not running the plasterboard joint in line with the door frame leg! I snag new builds and every frame has plasterboard join cracks above. It only takes a couple extra minutes to offset it but makes a world of difference 👍🏻
Another great video Roger &James Thank you
I look forward to these videos! Especially on a Friday!😆
I’m here for the “cables are not covered by capping” comments. I have been a sparky for years now, capping is about as useful as a glass hammer. As long as they are run in the zones and are RCD/RCBO protected then it’s all good. Keep up the good work lads.
Exactly, what’s capping going to do. People fail to realise the grey you see on cable is sheathing not insulation. It’s there to protect the insulated cable allowing plaster, dry wall adhesive etc etc to go on it. Sheathing won’t stop a drill but neither will capping metal or otherwise. You want mechanical protection to stop a drill then chop in 20mm conduit and wire the house in singles. Yeh. Didn’t think so either.
They are very rarely run in the zones us the problem. I don’t think anyone has told the sparks about safe zones 🤣
Isn’t capping only to protect clipped cables from the trowel when doing traditional plastering, not plasterboard ?
Skill builder and gogglebox. Perfect Friday 👍🏾
Great to see the jobs moving along nicely.😎 Great video.👍
Another great episode boys .you're a DAB hand at that James 😏. I bought some plugs the other day and saw they must be goods they were Forge fast. I thought of you lot straight away . That chalk line looks the business 👍🏽👌🏽🧱
Cheers boys. 👍
Great job guys. 👌🏼🏴👍🏼
There's nothing better than nice clean, flat, straight plasterboard boarding. You're setting it up for a perfect skim coat.
I hate it when companies get the cheaper lads to plasterboard, and there's holes and gaps everywhere, it just means you're always fighting it with the skim
Cheers Toby.
Personally I like dot and dab. It give you a better U value which gives more options regarding wall construction. Also it massively reduces the amount of water you put into the structure when building and so you have much less cracking and much quicker drying times, typically you can start finishing works within a few days.
Done properly with plenty of adhesive where you know you need fixings, like rads and kitchen cuoboards, it work well.
I've always used it on my own place.
Nice to see Ian with a speaking part this time 👍👍
More to come!
Forgive me Darren for I am a Northerner. I’ll work till the cows come home, but put me in front of a camera I fall to bits and get so nervous!
@@iantarncarpentry4285 Ian no apology needed, I've spoken with you many times, you are eloquent, knowledgeable, informed, humble as well as hard working. You're made to be in front of the camera giving advise and educating people, believe in yourself a bit more, you have a lot to to offer.
I've just bought a tajima chalk line and now find myself wanting a ce tools snap back lol. 👍🙂
Great video, thanks
I’ve been looking at getting a new chalk line .. cheers James. 👍🏻
It’s well worth it mate.
My dot n dab wall which is against my neighbours house (bungalows, 20yrs old) shows up as cold spots through my diamond Dulux paint(and 20 years of magnolia emulsion).
Also a surface crack up a join. A plasterer showed me how to dot n dab and always a full dab up the join. ✌🏻
I don't even use chalk lines but James sold that to me
I really enjoy watching you guys do a top quality job. Would love to have heard more tips on hanging the plasterboard though. Thanks
Love the aldi special whisk there James 👍🏼
It’s a beast, I’ve had it for about 6 years now.
Lidls got some in this weekend if anyone wants one.
On a larger building site with lots of trades moving in and out, I think cappping offers protection from people dragging materials or tools across new wiring. Also offer a bit of protection against masonry drill bits.
I'm watching this with Ian and enjoying the series, thank you. But I couldn't help but notice you have Lens Flare at 3:01. A couple of things I like to do when shooting is put a lens hood on just to avoid extra scattering light, also I like to shoot with a prime lens, I find them less susceptible to flare. And in my rucksack I'll carry a little tool to blow any dust or imperfections that may have rested on the lens and wipe it very gently with a fine microfibre cloth.
Thanks Emma
I work hard to get that lens flare. ....
Actually it was rain specs on the lens that dried and I couldn't see them at the time. I have just bought some impregnated lens cloths and will be giving it a regular clean. The camera, a Canon XF 705, has a fixed zoom lens and a hood. I have an interchangeable lens canon 5D for the wide angle shots but building sites are so dusty that I found I was forever cleaning the sensor. A lot of professional photograpers don't like to work on building sites because it is very hard on your kit.
Dot and dab plasterboard.
Loved by installers. Because it is quick and easy.
Hated by home owners and interior decorators who want to hang a picture.
Now THAT is a chalk line
James having 40 winks in the skip. He'll sleep anywhere.
It’s true, I really can fall asleep anywhere!
Can not stand dot and dab
Ian must of sold his sole he went all blurred when you asked lol 🔥🔫
I know! I’m actually a little scared that happened, haha!
@@iantarncarpentry4285 Be afraid. Be very afraid.
I hate dot and dab batons all the way, plus home owners will thank you with something solid to screw into!
If you use batons haven't you got the same issues for fixings in the areas between the batons ie. hollow gap and if you need a fixing where a dab is then normal plugs work fine, I don't see much advantage.
Hope you did a solid line of adhesive on the top and bottom of your plaster boards otherwise there will be draughts coming through light switches/sockets etc , but this nhbc standard is rarely done, cheers.
They won't get draughts through the sockets because he buttered up solid all around the socket. But his lack of solid dabs around the perimeter of the wall laughable,a complete fail.
Jim Bob, use smaller p/b packers for under the plasterboard and set them over halfway from the side you are sticking from. The board will lean into the following board. Make the packers no more than 100mm
Thanks for the tip Gavin. 👍
HI, I opine dot and dab were recommended on a single wall building but if it was to be used in a house which probably needs 2 walls, would dot and dab, with plasterboard (or in the same way stud partition) count for building regs as a 'second' internal wall, please? I look forward to your reply comments, Thanks and regards JB
Another great video guys. I’m sure I saw something on UA-cam once which said you need to have a continuous thick run of adhesive where the wall meets the ceiling as a fire stop. Is that not required?
Yes it is mate your right what they say is your best solid dabbing around the whole perimeter of each board I always measure and chalk a line where the end of the board comes to then run a solid dab down its easier than filling it after like James on here is doing....your also supposed to solid dab round sockets and switches aswel for fire stop.
Good work but why no continuous run at the top for fire break and continuous on bottom for skirting
It is not required for fire.
@@SkillBuilder must be down to inspector
Tidy work mind you
Getting a lot of comments about putting in capping or trunking. All you have to do is look were there's a plug or light switch and don't drill or nail anything near it😬
Why did you guys not use foam adhesive? Can you do a video on plasterboard adhesives?
I can't tell if these guys sunk the socket backboxes into the blocks or just mounted them on to the surface? When I rewired my kitchen recently I spent a lot of time sinking 32mm back boxes into the brick before I dot and dabbed. I am wondering if I would of been better of with surface mounting some 25mm ones on the brick first?
If Carling made Builders
Hi people from skill Builder, I am from Denmark and I am not familiar with the dot and dab system. Could you please explain to me why you would do this (put a plasterboard up with a hollow arear behind it) What is the argument for not just rendering and then plastering the wall as it is?
I do see the idea of having a installation level behind the wall, but is it much more difficult running a grove cutter around for the electrics, or even better letting the electrician run the cables in the wall cavity before the External wall is put up.
The dry lining is simply to avoid wet plastering. It is quick and prevents a lot of cracking issues which occur when plastering on aircrete.
@@SkillBuilder okay so it is because the wall is build from aircrete, which i know as brands like H+H and Ytong. It makes a lot of sense, i would also use a added adhesive for plastering this product. Thank you for the answer.
@@SkillBuilder lime plaster on air Crete works a treat. Breathability is a wonderful thing. Plasterboard is cheap all round.
No conduit/cover for the electrical cable?
😂😂 he’s got a forgefast jumper
And hopefully soon I’ll get their T-shirts and trousers!
May even see if they do boxer shorts 😉
@@iantarncarpentry4285 😂😂😂
@@noskills9577 Just going to do clothing from now on - forget screws!
Can we get a video on the pros and cons of dot and dab vs traditional render and skim? I always like to stick tradition on older properties as a novice but would be interested to know from the experts, especially on longevity.
I can see all the dot and dabs on my wall as cold spots. Highly annoying. And I can see they didn’t fill the joins and I’ve a surface crack. Sounds bossed in places. 20yrs old bungalow.
@@MrSmid888 Ok for tiling though
I've never seen this style of attaching drywall before, I'm curious what the trade-offs are for this method vs attaching battens to the blocks and attaching the drywall in a more traditional fashion. I'd be worried about the plaster not holding the drywall long-term vs a screw (I've had plenty of panel walls that end up coming loose from the glue), but maybe it's not an issue here?
It isn’t coming off, you would need an axe to hack it all off , it sets and adhered to boards like nobody’s business
Is there a spray foam that can stick plasterboard even better? Looks lik an old fashioned method :)
Hi Shaun You can do it with foam but we have known it come away, probably due to dust on the blocks
What kind of trowel do you use for dabbing?
'Framing' the board with a continuous bead would help prevent air leaks and draughts! Ask me how I know.... Currently dealing with this problem in my newish-build, leaky and drafty, home....
Hi James what tool belt do you wear ? Great work as always lads 👍
Hi Adam, it’s a snickers belt that Roger kindly gave to me. One day I am looking to get a diamond back rig.
Why did he put a full board over the expansion/movement joint in the building? Seems like cracks might show after some time..
So you think two part boards with surface filler or plaster won't crack?
Would foam plasterboard adhesive work in this situation (for better thermal properties)? Or does it not expand enough to allow it it sit off enough for the sockets?
Hi Matt They sell a foam specifically for fixing plasterboard but we have had cases where it pulled away so back to the old way. The foam has limited expansion to stop it pushing the board off the wall.
@@SkillBuilder that's really useful to know about the issues experienced with it. Thanks for that.
I just came here to read the comments about how they should have been doing this work, they've just done. Funny thing is despite apparently doing everything wrong the lads always end up delivering a perfectly serviceable house or extension. I just can't figure out it works.
Ceiling must go up first, otherwise, there is a gap for smoke and heat to rise through.
Do you not need to put covers over the electric wires anymore guys?
What if you hung up a picture and drilled through?
Thanks
It is up to the electrician, some do some don't but the thin metal capping is not really protection. The cables are run vertically or horizontally to avoid damage
It has never been a requirement. It is only really effective against a plasterers trowel. A nail or screw will have no issue penetrating oval pvc conduit, pvc or metal capping
So why plasterboard the wall and not just skim it? I’m just learning about all this stuff 🤔
Because it saves scratching the walls with sand cement,
For speed as well
As the old man use to say Morse code the cable to death😝 it'll have less chance of taking a hit dot and dash son DOT AND DASH 😉🔨
Is dot and dab now have to be a solid line top and bottom? I’m now on a job and got a lot of dot and dab to do. If you reply be much appreciated 👍🏻
Yes they say you have to put a perimeter on all boards. It can be done with fixer foam or adhesive but it stop air movement behind the boards.
👍
James, what was the spirit level , clamp that the younger guy was using to cut the plaster board?
ua-cam.com/video/piyU6gJvLow/v-deo.html
Why don't you get bright green chalk 1 line for all because there's nothing that is bright green in building👍
Can you put plaster directly on the block work ?
If you use a backing coat of Thistle Hardwall but it cracks on aircrete
As a DIY amateur, could I ask - why would you dot and dab that wall and not plaster it?
Hi Mike,
When I was first introduced to dot and dab I thought that it was a lazy way to achieve a plastered wall but I soon found out that not only is it quicker, it’s more accurate, it doesn’t compromise on fixings if done correctly and above all it resists the cracking that you get from applying plaster or sand and cement directly to aircrete blocks.
2.34 minutes Bonding at ceiling height is meant to be solid for fire restrictions ?
Hi Scott. That is not the case. It is solid to stop air movement but you can also use expanding foam for this purpose. If you look on new build you will see that they often put as little as 8 dabs per sheet.
Why stick pasteboard to the blocks instead of plastering blocks directly? Thanks
Moisture, time, cracking, shrinkage are all drawbacks of the plaster base coat. The board is gypsum so it does a similar job.
Will you plaster or be tape and joining?
It looked like straight edge, rather that tapered edge board, so I'm guessing they'll be plastering it. I'm no expert, but from a layperson's point of view, I prefer a skim coat of plaster, over tape and joining. It allows any slight discrepancies in boards to be rectified, seems more stable and paints well. I get the theory of taping and joining, but it seems like an awful lot of work for a finish that usually doesn't look any different.
As Edward said, it will be a plaster finish. I much prefer it as I feel it’s quicker and gives you mor options for decorating and re decorating in the future I.e wallpaper and the removal of it at a later date without wrecking the plasterboard.
Is it just me but I hate Dot & Dab, I understand the thermal & ease of fitting and I not worked on sites for a few years but no metal trunking over cables!!!!! a nightmare to fix anything up on (unless you use the ultra expensive special fixings) will a cable detector reach those cable that deep
Not done in my area much thankfully, we just batten it and plasterboard fixed to them, much better job but you loose an extra inch and a half.
Can't suffer working in a house with dot and dab. A horses arse of a thing.
Now let's go to the comments section to see what the armchair experts think.
Ex-Builder here who did plastering/dot/dabbing/tacking/coving etc.
The job was done absolutely fine. Everyone loves to play passenger inspector.
Hi, I noticed that at 0:55 you dabbed over the cables. Have the regs been relaxed about metal/plastic channels to protect the cables? Thanks
You don’t need capping. Capping is only to protect cables from a plasterer and their trowel. Coming from a spark
They will be RCD protected as it's less than 50mm from surface.
Hi James, Shouldn't those cables be in conduit? Good video though. Mike
Hi Mike,
The cables are only required to be in conduit if the wall is being plastered and if that was the case the only purpose that the conduit or capping would serve is to stop the plasterers trowel damaging the cables.
@@jimichip Hi James, understood but if someone drills or nails through a cable if it's in a conduit a new one cane easily be threaded through. Also not hard if the cable is left free under the board rather than locked in by the dabs. I am back on skirting for a couple more rooms and reviewed your excellent video on scribing the internal corners which was brilliant once I got my head round the geometry of the cuts in defining the line of the scribe. I assume the same technique will define any offset in the vertical for the external mitre as well. Your videos are excellent and you are very helpful in explaining details for those of us with limited skills and experience. Thanks. Mike
2:52 Not one to pick holes but should there not be a continuous bead of adhesive along the top for fire break?
That is a complete myth. There is fireboard on the ceiling and it goes to the wall. The wall is not combustible. If a fire gets behind the board it would need air to draw it. The reason for the bead is to support the board and this can be done with board adhesive or foam.
@@SkillBuilder Cheers Roger, I never thought it made much sense but just seen it in other videos, great video as usual, so glad you're making more videos with these two.
Did you guys pva? The wall before DD.
no it often skins over and makes for a weak bond. If you dilute it then fine but there is no need, this stuff is really hard to remove
Why don't you do skim the entire wall? What's with dot and dab? Serious question.
Hi Rob,
Plastering directly onto aircrete blocks generally results in cracked plaster further on down the line especially in this case as we have a movement joint in the wall. By using dot and dab we can drastically reduce any chance of cracking without compromising on fixings. Many people think that there is a huge void behind the plasterboard, however, if you’re unfortunate enough to drill where there is no adhesive then the void is only around 10-12mm until you’re into the block.
what was the name of those screws again ??? £££££££ lol
I always thought it had to be a continuous dab across the top for fire?
It is for air tightness not fire.
Not read all the comments but... why run a line down the edge of each board?
Is it to provide some stability on the edge to reduce cracking?
Yes precisely that. The ideas is to stop the edges flexing
Was that an unshielded pair of cables at the beginning?
yes. There is no requirement to shield cables that are traceable and protected by an RCD or RCBO
@@SkillBuilder ... until the RCD/BO fails? Regs are written by lobby groups rather than people that have been electrocuted. Also who wants to drill into the cables anyway and have to repair them. A piece of metal shielding is an early warning when drilling for those folk that do not use tracers
Very good but British Gypsum White Book states that a continuous line of adhesive should be applied horizontally at ceiling and floor level, not staggered dabs. This is to ensure air tightness at the perimeter of the boards. Otherwise, not a bad video.
British Gypsum states that a continuous line of adhesive should be applied but then shows it with far fewer davbs than James has used on this board. I have seen plenty of new builds where they use around 8 dabs per 8x 4 sheet. If the building is intended to be air tight it needs sealing around each board but on this extension there is no requirement for air tightness.
The point that some people are making about a fire stop is not substantiated by any guidance. The celing is the fire stop and the board are tight.
What is the music you use?
Which bit?
@@SkillBuilder at the start. I think it's Lo-Fi?
Where the devil is James?!
Videos titled dot and dab but most the video is talking about a chalk line
Would you like your money back?
why not plaster the entire wall?
water, time, cracking
Nah, furring strips, insulation, Sheetrock. Where’s the bleeping insulation.
Why does James use the chalk-line. I'm a newbie and not sure why he was using it on dot and dab
Plumb line I assume
Check out the British Gysum guide lines, they recommend chalk lines to keep the boards straight. He also likes to know where the board edges are.
It's a really basic timesaver to see if you are starting to go off centre. While a level should always be used, that chalk line can be used like a "north star".
While you're tapping the board to get level to the wall in terms of depth, you can eyeball that chalk line to assist with the width straightness. Obviously a level check should always be done,but it means you can focus on depth tapping a lot quicker.
First
😵😵😵
Maybe you should let the wife go first just for once
@@denty32 🤣🤣🤣👍
Not being clever but shouldn't the cabling be protected ?
Have a look at the comments on this.
@@SkillBuilder Ah, OK, got it 🙄! Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Peeps please use a peace of 4 b 2 or something like that!! Not your level!
I was using some 3x2 when it required a wallop or a tap with a hammer.
I see your using timber door linings, you haven't been converted by Robin yet to use mdf.
See that people have already commented that you are not fixing in accordance with British Gypsum recommendations ( full perimeter beads and around opening and service penetrations). Whilst this might be an extension air tightness is still an issue and I speak from experience as our company air tests buildings. The sooner plasterers understand the fact that blockwork is not airtight and they are the final line of defence against air leakage , the better. Or is this down to using less material = cost cutting? Expected better from Skill Builder 😒
Nick 1 of 2
You make an automatic assumption that air tightness is a good thing. We have at least two windows open in our house all year round, even when it was minus 10 and we are now being told that one way to reduce Covid 19 infections is to open lots of windows. We have zero condensation in our house.
ITN has been running news stories every night about people in damp mouldy houses. You can see at a glance that it is mostly due to lack of ventilation. I honestly believe that we will look back on 'air tightness' as another disastrous experiment. I can almost predict your answer about controlled ventilation. There is a paradox which is glaringly obvious.
@@SkillBuilder I don’t make any assumptions. A level of air tightness is a statutory requirement under Building Regulations and is essential to avoid degrading the insulation performance of building elements that form the external envelope of the building.
You clearly understand the need for ventilation but in doing so you are also supporting my answer for controlled ventilation.
Since when did you believe the media to give a balanced view of anything? I suspect (but can’t prove) that if many of these damp, mouldy houses were carefully examined there would be a mix of poor insulation, lack of heating , lack of ventilation and lack of understanding.
PassivHaus takes airtightness to an extremely low level but with high insulation levels and ‘controlled’ ventilation via MVHR it provides a healthy environment. Are you sceptical about this principle?
I have watched many of Roger & Robins’ videos and all have good workmanship at their core. This video perpetuates the myth that correct application of board adhesive (AKA dot and dab) is unimportant.
This video shows how it should be done.
ua-cam.com/video/5QVVnHI8xYk/v-deo.html
@@nick1of2 So you are telling me that a level of air tightness is mandatory on an extension in a house which was built a 100 years ago. Does this mean we have to cut the extension off from the rest of the house and test it? That is a new one on me. I would not argue with MVHR but this is not a Passivhus.
We have a rendered wall, full fill insulation, blockwork struck up and neatly laid and plasterboard with fire board tight to the blockwork. The bottoms and tops of the boards are foamed and the sockets etc have adhesive around them. I think the amount of air leakage will be tiny.
They did that in my house, I hate it, lazy stuff, never will allow it again, just my opinion👍🏻
What?
If it does the job, then it's OK: I'll never employ a builder who can't think for themselves when doing a job.
What did they do?
As per, too short.
That's not dot and dab it's just dab