16:27 Ooops, tactile switch decapitated... Yes, these with the Z mechanism are nice machines, just don't use them for tapes that were recorded with bad tape path alignment. Those plastic bases for the guide rollers will only allow a few realignments before the thread wears out. I was sure they have brass inserts for the threads, but they don't! That crazy fine pitch alignment thread is in the plastic itself. I found that out when I bought a Panasonic SVHS machine in which the alignment was off and as I touched the guide roller with the screwdriver it lowered by millimeters without turning it. I had to transplant the guides from a 2-head donor machine. Some early and/or higher-end models had metal roller bases with this same Z mechanism, but they are quite rare. Also, on some of these (seemingly mostly the non-Japanese ones), the rubber on the pinch roller is often cracked, and that was already the case even 10 years ago with machines from the early '00s, some were less than 10 years old back then.
That wasn't a trick. I learned that many years ago when I interned at the local community tv station. Engineers were doing that with broadcast gear, because. Well you know engineers are the cheapest people in the world. If they can come up with a way to save a buck they will. Shop uses to buy these cleaning sticks from Sony. I probably have a few packs of them still here. These cleaners were about 10 for a pack of 5 so 2.00 each and you used one to clean each machine. You could only use it once or twice because reusing it the glue that holds the deer skin on the end would fail and leave a residue behind. We charged 29 to clean and 5 shop supplies. I show up with the paper and within a few weeks we were not ordering any more cleaning sticks. I was a "genius" saved the company money and we still charged the shop supply. Clean 20 machines a day and that was 40 bucks a day into the owners pocket. You would have thought he would share but nope.
Mr. Volts, did l miss your front panel reassembly? Standard procedure: You keep the door flap in the "up" position with your thumb, then snap on the whole front panel. If you do not, the inner "lifting Lever" would be in the down position, thus unable to lift the door on tape ejection. 😮 please 🙏 correct me if l am in error. Best regards. MJ in B'dos 😊
You must have missed it. Yes the door has to be open when the front is snapped on unless you want to make it a manual eject (hold the door open) machine
If I remember that's the stop position. Cassette down, unlaced. Normally you load the cassette basket to access the screws. I just push it slightly to access the screws and then pull it back to eject position.
The big cam gear sometimes breaks from down under, because of a black-type factory lubricant present from factory. It turns into glue over time. Or the metal levers connecting under the cam gear can bend and snap for the same reason. Usually made in Slovakia or Hungary. I always regease these units when I come accross them.
I don't think Panasonic had a factory in Hungary. Their European factories that I'm aware of were in Slovakia/Czech Republic and Poland, and maybe one in the UK. Hungary had Sony, Samsung and Philips factories, but no Panasonic. Samsung is still there, but Sony and Philips are long gone.
@@mrnmrn1Well ok, although I'm from the Czech Republic and have yet to come accross a vcr from Panasonic made here. Literally none. But many from Slovakia and a few from Hungary. Older VCRs (early K mech or Z mech) were also made in Germany
@@speed_rider362 I can't find info about any Hungarian Panasonic factory. Panasonic Hungary exists, but they only do sales according to their site, and no reference about them making anything ever here. Well, in the '80s they assembled NV-430 VCRs in the Hungarian Orion factory, but that was a one time gig only for that one model AFAIK. And despite they were assembled in Hungary, the nameplate on the back said Made in Japan.
I have a General Electric VG-7720 (made by Panasonic in 1988) that, when fully rewinding a tape (which takes about 4½ minutes), starts making a loud noise about halfway through, which gets louder and higher pitched until it finishes rewinding. I've traced the noise to the nylon gear that drives the right-hand spindle (it isn't being driven when rewinding; it is just freewheeling). The gear starts vibrating when its RPMs reach a certain point and that's what's causing the noise. If I lightly press the back of my fingernail against the gear while rewinding (which prevents it from vibrating), the noise instantly stops, and when I remove my finger, the noise instantly returns. Do you think that putting some grease on that gear's shaft would dampen it to prevent the vibration? If so, what type of grease should I use? Also, do you know how to remove the gear? There's some type of tiny retaining clip/washer thing for it on top of the shaft, same idea as an E-clip, snap ring, etc., but I don't know exactly what it is nor what type of tool would work to remove it.
@@12voltvids Thanks. Do you think the lithium grease should be put on the shaft, the teeth, or both? I noticed that it does indeed look like a washer with a split in it. Do you have a video showing the removal of one of those?
@@12voltvids It's fixed! The little clip just pries off. I couldn't remove the gear nor the big belt pulley above it though because there was a metal tab in the way of both of them that seemed to be specifically designed to prevent them from being removed. I was able to lift the gear up enough to put some grease a little ways down into its center hole though, and when I just tested it, it was the first time I've heard it do a full rewind of a tape without squawking since the year 2000.
Can you tell me PLEASE which Matsushita aka Panasonic mechanism this VCR has, GE model 1VCR6015B has in it. MFG, I believe 1985, and if that mechanism was one of their better ones? THANK YOU! It was a 4 head stereo unit with great effects.
Have no idea haven't seen that crap in 40 years. I know them to see them but which models use them i have no clue. Contrary to what sone may thing i really didn't pay much attention to consumer crap when I was fixing it. They all looked the same. I think most that were in the service business felt the same way. We didn't get excited by this stuff like users did. We just fixed one and moved on. No emotional attachment to any of this stuff.
@@12voltvids ugh. Just crushed my happy thoughts on the vcr I bought with paper route money in 1986. Thanks. It was the best vcr I owned. Killer remote, great effects. Just thought I'd ask. When you say "crap" wasn't the machines from then better than the later ones?
My VCR is wrinkling both edges of the tape, but the center of the tape is left perfectly intact. Someone told me it could be a "spindler", I'm a newbie so I have no idea what I could do to fix it. I'm currently looking for info to get some knowledge that would lead me to an answer.
Hi, What was this tactile switch (button) that was destroyed when you put back the front cover ? (in the lower right corner). ua-cam.com/video/tCievGgLEwI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=988 Edit , SW6316, FF switch.
@@speed_rider362Compare that to the G mechanism, or even worse, the mechanism of the NV-V8000 that accepted both sizes of tapes. You can appreciate the complexity of those but they are a nightmare to work on.
@@joeb2588 Well, maybe. I find that mechanisms with solenoids (the '80s, beginning of '90) are ususally very hard to service. They were quite nice to the tape but very clunky. So much room for a timing error. The G mechanism from the '80s had whopping 12 alignment points, whereas the Z mech has only 4. So if you prefer simplicity, go with the Z or K mech, you do not need to go ancient nowadays. A great SVHS machine are probably NB-HS860, NV-HS960 (Z mech) or NV-HS1000 (K mech). All of these have the TBC built in. Of course these are available in the EU, I do not know what is obtainable in the USA or Canada.
@speed_rider362 Thank you! I had a GE, (Matsushita) 4 head stereo vcr that I bought in 1985-86 with my paper route money from a GE/RCA authorized dealer in town. It was an 85 model i believe. GE 1vcr6015B, was the model#. I loved that machine. It looked great, the remote was loaded with all sorts of functions, the effects were great. In fact, it was the best vcr I have owned. Sure I had others after that one but this one was special. Prob had the G mech? Either way, it was neat.
i have 2 pv-8450s and a 8400 these blue line Panasonic vcrs run like a clock. as many older ones do along with sharp, symphonic and emerson vcrs, as my experiences. G mech machines where crap tho, as the planetary gear set would skip teeth and throw out timing. then the vcr would grind itself to an unrepairable death, (had two of those) panasonic should of used metal gears.
16:27 Ooops, tactile switch decapitated...
Yes, these with the Z mechanism are nice machines, just don't use them for tapes that were recorded with bad tape path alignment. Those plastic bases for the guide rollers will only allow a few realignments before the thread wears out. I was sure they have brass inserts for the threads, but they don't! That crazy fine pitch alignment thread is in the plastic itself. I found that out when I bought a Panasonic SVHS machine in which the alignment was off and as I touched the guide roller with the screwdriver it lowered by millimeters without turning it. I had to transplant the guides from a 2-head donor machine. Some early and/or higher-end models had metal roller bases with this same Z mechanism, but they are quite rare. Also, on some of these (seemingly mostly the non-Japanese ones), the rubber on the pinch roller is often cracked, and that was already the case even 10 years ago with machines from the early '00s, some were less than 10 years old back then.
Nope. Switch is fine.
The piece of paper head cleaning trick worked! Thanks
That wasn't a trick. I learned that many years ago when I interned at the local community tv station. Engineers were doing that with broadcast gear, because. Well you know engineers are the cheapest people in the world. If they can come up with a way to save a buck they will.
Shop uses to buy these cleaning sticks from Sony. I probably have a few packs of them still here. These cleaners were about 10 for a pack of 5 so 2.00 each and you used one to clean each machine. You could only use it once or twice because reusing it the glue that holds the deer skin on the end would fail and leave a residue behind. We charged 29 to clean and 5 shop supplies. I show up with the paper and within a few weeks we were not ordering any more cleaning sticks. I was a "genius" saved the company money and we still charged the shop supply. Clean 20 machines a day and that was 40 bucks a day into the owners pocket. You would have thought he would share but nope.
Mr. Volts, did l miss your front panel reassembly? Standard procedure: You keep the door flap in the "up" position with your thumb, then snap on the whole front panel. If you do not, the inner "lifting Lever" would be in the down position, thus unable to lift the door on tape ejection. 😮 please 🙏 correct me if l am in error. Best regards. MJ in B'dos 😊
You must have missed it. Yes the door has to be open when the front is snapped on unless you want to make it a manual eject (hold the door open) machine
@12voltvids Mr. Volts ⚡️On review l did indeed missed this Crucial reassembly mandate. Thks.
What is the "Service" position of the mode switch for, indicated on the board?
If I remember that's the stop position. Cassette down, unlaced. Normally you load the cassette basket to access the screws. I just push it slightly to access the screws and then pull it back to eject position.
The big cam gear sometimes breaks from down under, because of a black-type factory lubricant present from factory. It turns into glue over time. Or the metal levers connecting under the cam gear can bend and snap for the same reason. Usually made in Slovakia or Hungary. I always regease these units when I come accross them.
I don't think Panasonic had a factory in Hungary. Their European factories that I'm aware of were in Slovakia/Czech Republic and Poland, and maybe one in the UK. Hungary had Sony, Samsung and Philips factories, but no Panasonic. Samsung is still there, but Sony and Philips are long gone.
@@mrnmrn1Well ok, although I'm from the Czech Republic and have yet to come accross a vcr from Panasonic made here. Literally none. But many from Slovakia and a few from Hungary. Older VCRs (early K mech or Z mech) were also made in Germany
@@speed_rider362 I can't find info about any Hungarian Panasonic factory. Panasonic Hungary exists, but they only do sales according to their site, and no reference about them making anything ever here. Well, in the '80s they assembled NV-430 VCRs in the Hungarian Orion factory, but that was a one time gig only for that one model AFAIK. And despite they were assembled in Hungary, the nameplate on the back said Made in Japan.
I have a General Electric VG-7720 (made by Panasonic in 1988) that, when fully rewinding a tape (which takes about 4½ minutes), starts making a loud noise about halfway through, which gets louder and higher pitched until it finishes rewinding. I've traced the noise to the nylon gear that drives the right-hand spindle (it isn't being driven when rewinding; it is just freewheeling). The gear starts vibrating when its RPMs reach a certain point and that's what's causing the noise. If I lightly press the back of my fingernail against the gear while rewinding (which prevents it from vibrating), the noise instantly stops, and when I remove my finger, the noise instantly returns.
Do you think that putting some grease on that gear's shaft would dampen it to prevent the vibration? If so, what type of grease should I use? Also, do you know how to remove the gear? There's some type of tiny retaining clip/washer thing for it on top of the shaft, same idea as an E-clip, snap ring, etc., but I don't know exactly what it is nor what type of tool would work to remove it.
Lithium grease is what you should use. That little clip is a cut washer and it will cone off.
@@12voltvids Thanks. Do you think the lithium grease should be put on the shaft, the teeth, or both?
I noticed that it does indeed look like a washer with a split in it. Do you have a video showing the removal of one of those?
@@12voltvids It's fixed! The little clip just pries off. I couldn't remove the gear nor the big belt pulley above it though because there was a metal tab in the way of both of them that seemed to be specifically designed to prevent them from being removed. I was able to lift the gear up enough to put some grease a little ways down into its center hole though, and when I just tested it, it was the first time I've heard it do a full rewind of a tape without squawking since the year 2000.
If I remember correctly isn't rewinding a tape put lots of wear on the machine? I remember using a video rewinder was the way to go.
Not really, the supply side basically freewheels
Can you tell me PLEASE which Matsushita aka Panasonic mechanism this VCR has, GE model 1VCR6015B has in it. MFG, I believe 1985, and if that mechanism was one of their better ones? THANK YOU!
It was a 4 head stereo unit with great effects.
Have no idea haven't seen that crap in 40 years. I know them to see them but which models use them i have no clue. Contrary to what sone may thing i really didn't pay much attention to consumer crap when I was fixing it. They all looked the same. I think most that were in the service business felt the same way. We didn't get excited by this stuff like users did. We just fixed one and moved on. No emotional attachment to any of this stuff.
@@12voltvids ugh. Just crushed my happy thoughts on the vcr I bought with paper route money in 1986. Thanks. It was the best vcr I owned. Killer remote, great effects. Just thought I'd ask. When you say "crap" wasn't the machines from then better than the later ones?
Not really. Too many mechanical problems on the old ones. The best vcrs were the ones that came out around 2000 to 2003
@@12voltvids I thought by 2000-2003 the machines were all plastic junk?
My VCR is wrinkling both edges of the tape, but the center of the tape is left perfectly intact. Someone told me it could be a "spindler", I'm a newbie so I have no idea what I could do to fix it. I'm currently looking for info to get some knowledge that would lead me to an answer.
Probably pinch roller but you would have to inspect and see where the damage is happening.
Hi, What was this tactile switch (button) that was destroyed when you put back the front cover ? (in the lower right corner).
ua-cam.com/video/tCievGgLEwI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=988
Edit , SW6316, FF switch.
No, FF is fine,
Hi, Any reason not to use a CRT tv when testing ? Or would you mostly use them for tape alignment
Because i have a plasma sitting right next to me. Crt takes up too much space. I do have one up on the corner with a burned screen.
The Z mechanism, I believe it was the last one that Panasonic designed.
The R4 was probably last (found for instance in NV-HV60). It was oversimplified. Just few gears and levers. However, I like the Z mech more.
@@speed_rider362Compare that to the G mechanism, or even worse, the mechanism of the NV-V8000 that accepted both sizes of tapes. You can appreciate the complexity of those but they are a nightmare to work on.
@speed_rider362 hey, maybe you can help. I get them confused.. Z, K, and the others. Which Panasonic mechanisms are the best, prob from mid 80s...?
@@joeb2588 Well, maybe. I find that mechanisms with solenoids (the '80s, beginning of '90) are ususally very hard to service. They were quite nice to the tape but very clunky. So much room for a timing error. The G mechanism from the '80s had whopping 12 alignment points, whereas the Z mech has only 4. So if you prefer simplicity, go with the Z or K mech, you do not need to go ancient nowadays. A great SVHS machine are probably NB-HS860, NV-HS960 (Z mech) or NV-HS1000 (K mech). All of these have the TBC built in. Of course these are available in the EU, I do not know what is obtainable in the USA or Canada.
@speed_rider362 Thank you! I had a GE, (Matsushita) 4 head stereo vcr that I bought in 1985-86 with my paper route money from a GE/RCA authorized dealer in town. It was an 85 model i believe. GE 1vcr6015B, was the model#. I loved that machine. It looked great, the remote was loaded with all sorts of functions, the effects were great. In fact, it was the best vcr I have owned. Sure I had others after that one but this one was special. Prob had the G mech? Either way, it was neat.
Panasonic vcr model no NV220 cassette enject time F5 error showing frequently so problem come I help me please problem
i have 2 pv-8450s and a 8400 these blue line Panasonic vcrs run like a clock. as many older ones do along with sharp, symphonic and emerson vcrs, as my experiences. G mech machines where crap tho, as the planetary gear set would skip teeth and throw out timing. then the vcr would grind itself to an unrepairable death, (had two of those) panasonic should of used metal gears.