That's nearly identical to the ridge reamer I've had since the mid 60s. Only difference is mine has Snap-On embossed on the top. I actually still have the box if you can believe that. It's cut hundreds of ridges and still works fine!
Very nice video, I have a 350 small block that every cylinder has a lip or ridge at the top and I've spent minutes honing it with a stone hone making little to no progress, probably doing more damage to my cylinders in the end, finally decided to look up what I could be doing wrong and you gave me the answer, just ordered a reamer and hopefully it'll be in sooner than later
I wonder if the stude was cut with the other style of reamer? Would be real easy to overcut with that type, one of the reasons I like the lathe style you used in the video. Hard to do bore damage with that one. For folks who never seen one, the lathe style like this cuts the ridge using just the top of the cutter as it rides the bore face. It can't easily cut the bore size larger unless you really mess up. The other style of reamer you adjust so a thin plastic bumper hits the bore face, then you rotate the head a couple times, then adjust the cutter depth again and repeat until the ridge is gone. The bumper riding on the face of the bore pushes the cutter out against the ridge, but if you don't stop to check the cut and just go until it stops cutting it WILL bell mouth the cylinder as it cuts using the face of the cutter.
Logically, I knew that over time the rings would do this to the cylinder bore, but I never thought there was a specific tool to ream that ridge off. I had always assumed that this was just one more thing that was considered when determining if an engine needed a rebore or not.
On a 4 inch bore what is the max taper you can get by with before you break a top ring . l alway sent them out to be bored . I know friends who cut some pretty big ridges out i told them it would never work and they would break the top ring . but they never did . man did they ever like telling me how wrong i was . thanks dan .
Interesting! Does that tool cut exactly round or does it follow any ovalness in the bore? I am guessing it should cut dead round as you lock the cutter?
If the top ring can never reach the top why do you eat away the ridge till you get to the deck. Why not eat away just half the ridge? Thanks. This the first resource I've checked to learn about what cylinder ridge is.
Im 51 Ive never used a ridge reamer because i was afraid of causing damage but obviously I didnt know how they worked. Back in high school a buddy had a machine shop remove a ridge and they ruined his bore(they bever mentioned it hoping he was dumb kid that wouldnt notice) now watching this there's no way they used a reamer they must have done it with a bore cutter or something because the cut was offset so he still had some ridge on one side and it was cut deeper than the bore the other side, so i always assumed it was a risky process so I never considered doing it, every engine ive messes with that had a ridge i just dingleblled em and replaced rings and fortunately was ok, i was told long time ago ridge with just new rings probably be ok if its a different piston chances of a problem are increased... Obviously theres no definites shortcuts always have risks. I can say from my experience anyway that even tho a bore has enough taper to cause a ridge the best choice is a fresh bore and pistons but a hone and a set of rings is super cheap and ive brought a few tierd engines back to tip top running shape with a hone and rings, is it perfect no but if oil and compression are staying where thier supposed to be than its good to go, yeah it will start having issues considerably quicker than a fresh bore but you can get 10s of thousands of more miles out of that cyclinder for the cost of a set of rings. I got around 8 more hard years from my 350 i bored.030 over a decade earlier, it had a decent ridge i dingled it and tossed in a set of rings on the cheap cast flatop pistons, a diy crank polish, it had some fine lines but nothing deep and new rod, main and cam bearings and a new Howards FT cam and timing chain, after around 10 years it started to puff a little bit of oil but it still ran strong, i was thinking bout time to build another because im not going .060 screw that to risky and then i parked it and i forgot it had just water in it and it pushed one of the brass block plugs out soooo im not real optimistic now, of course its the one behind the motor mount, im hoping i can pop it back in and get a few more miles until i can get my new shortblock built but who knows ill find out hopefully soon its warming up outside. But thanks for the video it really cleared up how they function🤙
Very cool video Danny, Thanks for sharing this one! :)
That's nearly identical to the ridge reamer I've had since the mid 60s. Only difference is mine has Snap-On embossed on the top. I actually still have the box if you can believe that. It's cut hundreds of ridges and still works fine!
I can believe that lots on my tool are in the box.
Good explanation.. Wishing You and Elaine ,in advance, a pleasant Valentine's Day.
Another great video Danny!
Your videos are awesome here from South Yorkshire uk great to listen to brother !!!!
Glad you like them!
I never seen one of those before; but now i know what they're, what they're for and how they're used.
Thank you again Danny!
Very nice video, I have a 350 small block that every cylinder has a lip or ridge at the top and I've spent minutes honing it with a stone hone making little to no progress, probably doing more damage to my cylinders in the end, finally decided to look up what I could be doing wrong and you gave me the answer, just ordered a reamer and hopefully it'll be in sooner than later
Great video! Back in the day, I was taught to ream before removing pistons to avoid ring land damage. What is your opnion/ advice?
Yes ,that’s old school!
l agree with dan . l was taught the same thing . old school . earlier 70 's
@@MrDanielSoliz
I got an ASE question whether it's necessary or not. So what does old school mean? Do you mean it's no longer needed.
Thanks for video
I wonder if the stude was cut with the other style of reamer? Would be real easy to overcut with that type, one of the reasons I like the lathe style you used in the video. Hard to do bore damage with that one. For folks who never seen one, the lathe style like this cuts the ridge using just the top of the cutter as it rides the bore face. It can't easily cut the bore size larger unless you really mess up.
The other style of reamer you adjust so a thin plastic bumper hits the bore face, then you rotate the head a couple times, then adjust the cutter depth again and repeat until the ridge is gone. The bumper riding on the face of the bore pushes the cutter out against the ridge, but if you don't stop to check the cut and just go until it stops cutting it WILL bell mouth the cylinder as it cuts using the face of the cutter.
Logically, I knew that over time the rings would do this to the cylinder bore, but I never thought there was a specific tool to ream that ridge off. I had always assumed that this was just one more thing that was considered when determining if an engine needed a rebore or not.
Thanks Danny have a good one man:)
You too!
Great video, thanks AG
Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic detail in your explanation!
Many thanks!
Awesome Video,, you saved me from sending my Mercury Flathead to a machinist
Excellent video. Thank you.
Nice job , thanks
Very informational
Love it ..Thanks sir
On a 4 inch bore what is the max taper you can get by with before you break a top ring . l alway sent them out to be bored . I know friends who cut some pretty big ridges out i told them it would never work and they would break the top ring . but they never did . man did they ever like telling me how wrong i was . thanks dan .
Back in the day it was .008 but now I don’t go pass .005
Nice video
Thanks
Just order one on e bay / snap on . But looks like your s , thanks for sharing!
Thanks mate.
😎🍺👍🇦🇺
Interesting! Does that tool cut exactly round or does it follow any ovalness in the bore? I am guessing it should cut dead round as you lock the cutter?
It’s spring loaded and follows the bore.
@@MrDanielSoliz OK, so it will cut oval if the bore is oval.
If the top ring can never reach the top why do you eat away the ridge till you get to the deck.
Why not eat away just half the ridge?
Thanks. This the first resource I've checked to learn about what cylinder ridge is.
Because you don’t want the new rings to hit the ridge and break your piston ring land.👍good question!!!
How do you keep those tiny spring-loaded blades sharp? An ant-sized blade sharpener ?
Great question,I’ve never had to sharpen it.
I'd say that after a couple of Danny's type lifetime professional use, you could afford a new ridge reamer.
They are carbide, the top edge is sharp but the face that rides on the bore wall is usually ground with a rounded face so it slides on the iron.
Im 51 Ive never used a ridge reamer because i was afraid of causing damage but obviously I didnt know how they worked. Back in high school a buddy had a machine shop remove a ridge and they ruined his bore(they bever mentioned it hoping he was dumb kid that wouldnt notice) now watching this there's no way they used a reamer they must have done it with a bore cutter or something because the cut was offset so he still had some ridge on one side and it was cut deeper than the bore the other side, so i always assumed it was a risky process so I never considered doing it, every engine ive messes with that had a ridge i just dingleblled em and replaced rings and fortunately was ok, i was told long time ago ridge with just new rings probably be ok if its a different piston chances of a problem are increased... Obviously theres no definites shortcuts always have risks. I can say from my experience anyway that even tho a bore has enough taper to cause a ridge the best choice is a fresh bore and pistons but a hone and a set of rings is super cheap and ive brought a few tierd engines back to tip top running shape with a hone and rings, is it perfect no but if oil and compression are staying where thier supposed to be than its good to go, yeah it will start having issues considerably quicker than a fresh bore but you can get 10s of thousands of more miles out of that cyclinder for the cost of a set of rings. I got around 8 more hard years from my 350 i bored.030 over a decade earlier, it had a decent ridge i dingled it and tossed in a set of rings on the cheap cast flatop pistons, a diy crank polish, it had some fine lines but nothing deep and new rod, main and cam bearings and a new Howards FT cam and timing chain, after around 10 years it started to puff a little bit of oil but it still ran strong, i was thinking bout time to build another because im not going .060 screw that to risky and then i parked it and i forgot it had just water in it and it pushed one of the brass block plugs out soooo im not real optimistic now, of course its the one behind the motor mount, im hoping i can pop it back in and get a few more miles until i can get my new shortblock built but who knows ill find out hopefully soon its warming up outside. But thanks for the video it really cleared up how they function🤙
Who makes that ridge reamer?
KD Tools
KD2389
Do you have to cut the ridge out.
Most of the time you do or did back in the day.
Looks like this: KD 2389 Engine Cylinder Ridge Reamer
Good call , yes it is a KD tools one.
It is👍
cappuccino