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Checkmate ... MOROSO Billet Gearotor

I've heard of that for fixing piston slap 👍

Thank you well splain

And they still come out

Just use line to line coating and have the piston coated

Does this have any effect on the cylinder walls?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

But u didn't say why

Good find Danny.

So a weaker cam for when I'm smacking the limiter and longer pushrods needed

Problem is basic quality is getting darn hard to find.

Why knurl pistons for that fit instead of sizing the bore for that fit? I really want to see some of your data showing it making more power. "Did you know?" Well, I still don't because you just said that and didn't show how or why from testing

This is done not for sizing but to hold oil near the rings for a better seal and longer life.

How do you determine your bore size for that process? Looks alittel excessive, for skirt clearance!

Hi Danny. Thanks this was the Best video I have seen on Retro fit kit on a Ford 351,Block. Can you please advise on push rods. I going for the spares below. If you agree. I would really appreciate if you can gide me. I have a Ford 351W block number is E9AE-6015-AA-13 . COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Retrofit Camshafts 35-424-8 COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16 9656 Edelbrock Chromoly Pushrods 9656 (7.625") Thanks in advance Danny. I really appreciate 🤗

Yeah, it keeps the cylinder walls oiled up. Good for longevity as long as you change your oil often enough.

That's some Gnarly Gnurling

What manner of sorcery is this?! I just cut my catalytic stud off to allow full removal. The other stud no problem. I've tried hammering, sledgehammer, air hammering. The stud won't come off. Gonna try this as a last resort.

I like the fact of being able to place weight exactly where you need it. My 4x4 coyote would be perfect with all that headflow, and I need weight over the rear axle anyway!

I did the same thing. Checked with no valve springs and shaved off the valve stem tips to bring back into clearance on a belt sander (0.15 mm on average is what was needed to be shaved off). Is it the way a machine shop would do it? Maybe, maybe not. End of the day I wanted to minimize costs where I could and take a more realistic DIY approach.

I had punch my bad ones out with hammer too but mine didn’t come out as easy did I mess up the bore I used hammer and nut driver

I've seen it did not know what to call it or why it existed and I think its because I barely took note and it almost didn't register. That looks to me like you bought a very nice custom lathe and with it a chunk of Americana. I would shake a little every time I spun something up on it.❤ Sweet . Ya at least gotta gitcher money back. So you can reduce pistons by knurling them in worn out motors? I just happen to have a worn out motor. Aint advertising algorithms gold? I'm just not used to the simplicity by which people make money. I don't have the brain power . I'm blasting in and out of reality like a hippie. See ya in the springtime hippies. It's cold as glacial balls outside today.

Just Awesome job!!

Thanks Daniel..👍 Great video and great teaching. Maybe time for more videos? 🇸🇪

I am a fan of this build

One other reason for you, if you pull high vacuum on the crankcase, it will pull on the rings on the piston at high rpm keeping them seated on the bottom of the ring-land area on the piston at high rpm. I know this is a flathead and will probably never see much worse than 5000 rpm, but this really helps on high horsepower high rpm forced induction systems.

When are the ribs gonna be ready, I'm starving!

How do you line up the texture with such a narrow wheel, it seems like it would be tricky do you have a video of the process?

Pac is crap

Where are you located ?

cool

How much run out would acceptable for this.

Should I be able to push down The lifters with my fingers?

Less parasitic drag as well.

Best video I seen online for this. Thank you

Outstanding as the old saying goes you always learn something when you listen to someone who knows

So i could grind the base off the cam lobe and get more lift.. and then simply adjust valve lash????

Taking machine shop in HS is the best thing a kid can do. Then learn welding.

This makes absolutely zero sense to me. first off the only way that you would gain more lift by re-grinding a cam is to deck the block and shave the heads. You’re not increasing travel of a push rod by shaving the bottom side of the lobe, not only that you would be losing duration by grinding a cam! not only that you would be making extreme cuts And slamming a valve shut!essentially you would need more spring load at open.so this entire thing is complete and total utter bullshit… also also to offset your grinding of the cam you would have to elongate the circle base of the Cam bore to compensate grinding anything off of the original lobe profile

So how does knurling the sides stabilize the piston for better gas seal? Break it down because it looks to me to still be much smaller diameter than the top of the piston and once rings are in there I don’t see how the knurling will prevent it from canting back and forth. Is it a hydraulic thing where the knurling holds oil and that makes the whole thing ride more centered?

Why would you knurl the piston pop land??

Yeah but has anyone hand scraped ‘frosted’ the skirts? That would be sick

Do you adjust cylinder finish depending on block material? For instance classic Ford blocks are high carbon and more resistant to wear. Does that affect ring seating during break in?

How often do you need to pull the distributor and check the phenolic gear? I’m a flat tappet guy but will be running a roller in my next engine.

There so many things to look out for when building an FE. Regular Chevy based machine shops hate them. That’s ok, but don’t let them assemble one. Love my FE’s but it’s just hard to ignore how much easier it is to make a crap ton of power with a 385 series.

Why does it make more power?

Figures it’s NASCAR. Look at F1 pistons if you want to see the correct way to do a piston

Why not say WHY this works...

Is this on the Carb , or the injection ?

I do it that way exactly! And I put hose barbs in the intake valley to prevent oil from roping around the crank and rods, as well as let any crankcase pressure to get out and through a pair of K&N Filters in the valve covers or the front oil filler and rear tube in the intake. You build it right the filters will contain any vapors from stinking up the cabin. But keeping oil off of the crank is critical and an FE will rev like a 327 Chevy even a .060 over 410.