Just added the gorilla mounting to my soon to release Baron V2 frame. Still need more testing, but so far, so good. Some people might complain about the unconventional mounting, but I like the out of the box thinking. If anything, it should help further isolate the stack from frame resonance.
I love my Mario 5 - I built one with all SpeedyBee parts including the Emax Eco II motors that they sell, and it instantly became my best flying quad using Betaflight stock defaults for filters and PIDs. Later I threw away the SpeedyBee VTX and put in a Rush Tank Solo - my favourite build to date by a long way.
I have a Steele Apex frame I’m about to build with the freestyle stack. So glad you did this review. Excited for the build even with to the weird mounting. Tbs has always been great and pushing the industry, so I have no doubts I’ll be pleased
Thanks for a great review and for what it’s worth… I had 2 ESC failures thus far. Both on motor 3, the one next to mounting hole…. FET shorting to negative. Just maybe TBS have a point or stats we do not ? How about putting out a FET failure survey ?
You can also just drill 4 new holes in your bottom plate in many cases. Overall it's a better solution. Solves other issues newbies make like over tightening the stack screws and eating up all their dampening or not having a "golden nut" at the bottom of the stack. The long skinny design better matches the shape of our frames. I think they could have made the adapter from the FC to the ESC a heatsink on the ESC but it's likely overrated for the weight penalty. I'm all for changing the standards when it offers benefits. In this case it's just a few holes in the carbon. I certainly wouldn't want dji to make the 04 system fit in the 19mm spacing we typically have for cameras if it means we have to sacrifice image quality. Frames should evolve to suite the hardware not the other way.
I like standard things, but I understand that the way most manufacturers design their ESC's is a workaround to make 4 high current ESC fit in 30x30 standard made for FC's back in 2014.
@@ddegn I tent to solder my motor wires vertically to the castellations. I route them around the stack screw beneath the ESC, then bend 90 degrees vertically up into the castellation and solder there.
Sometimes you have to set a new standard. There isn't any reason, that I can see, for FCs or ESC blocks to be square. When assembling a frame like this, blue-tacking it together first, makes life easier. The blue-tak squeezes out when you tighten the screws.
I got two of them... I really like the mount... much more compact than my Reapers... I just wish it had KISS... AM32... it's my new esc... I don't have any 20x20 kiss FCFC's yet though... I'm using the 30x30 adapter...
Mario (and Volador) both have the stupid double layer of bottom and middle plates in the back, ostensibly for the receiver, but in practice you need to almost disassemble the entire frame to access that area if god forbid your RX antenna needs to be replaced.. Otherwise a nice budget frame.
Always better to get hands-on time with this stuff before criticizing it. It's just better. I saw it right away, but I get why some would be critical at first; it's different & humans are notorious for disliking change.
Ian, your first review of this product was spot on. They should have picked a standard mount pattern. I would really like to see more ESC manufacturers put holes on the motor pads like the GEPRC TAKER H70 70A. Also, Why don't more FCs come with a plug to quickly change from ELRS to Crossfire, and back.
A new mounting pattern? Whahaha, the audacity! 🤭 One of the reasons I love them. And to be honest, I've looked at those corner fets many times and often wondered "that can't be good, but there's no play room🤔" And now TBS fixed that, and the symmetry definitely works for my Asperger too🤫 Great video and beautiful close-ups, thanks Ian!
Honestly, I bought the stack just to support TBS. That being said, I hope the stack holds up because I like the Gorilla mount. Passing on the source one frame tho.
Don't have personal experience with ALL of TBS's electronics, especially as I don't fly as much analog or use their radio links... But Having gone over a lot of their prior PCB design test results with other companies I have worked with, I can say that they have some of the best EMI and RF designed products in FPV. And many in the industry look up to their designs. If this new stuff is anything like that, it will be popular with people that fly for a living. Or need the reliability. Personally I'll stick with my free electronics I get from work, as they don't last long in my smashy hands anyway. But if I was flying close to civilians or doing cinematic jobs I would be 100% confident to stick them in a build.
I have some older TBS Drones they sold, the TBS Vendetta and the TBS Oblivion. They both have the TBS Powercube 6s plus the FPVision Board its called that has the PDB on it and a TBS Unify VTX built-in to the FPVision board which is the bottom board. Theres a really nice multi-pin connector to add each PCB Board layer on top. So then you add each individual ESC Boards, 4 of them lol, then the FC on top which is the COLIBRI_RACE F3 Flight Controller. The Flight controller was made for the TBS Powercube setup because it had the thru-pins in it as well. So each ESC Board, FPV/VTX Board, and FC Board have no wires connecting them and each ESC is rated for 50A and they each have little Cap's built-into the design. They fly great and both have 4s motor setups, but i think one day i will try them with 6s rated motors. The F3 FC honestly flies fine with the older version of Betaflight already on it and it was professionally tuned before i bought all of the stuff from someone. I also got a Tango 2 with it because the Colibri FC had the mount for the Nano RX and a plug in for the Micro RX. So it had Crossfire even way back then in 2016-2018/9. My Tango 2 had the V1 PCB in it when I got it which the guy at TBS said was only on the first pre-order batch for about a month. So it was an original until i went to the V3 PCB for the 1W power. I love flying the TBS Vendetta, but i broke one arm, and since it has that quick-change arm design where it has a XT30-3 Pin for the motors where the arms meet the Frame. So no resoldering if you broke something like a motor, you could have spare arms made up with motors and plugs already to swap on, which was a pretty cool idea.. However they seem to be discontinued now and I only have one extra arm for it so i figured id only fly it once and awhile lol. I have other drones and its just too cool to ruin it lol.. The TBS Oblivion is like a big avata without the ducts basically, idk what you would call that. Its a completely plastic design with reinforments and it feels nice and strong and it can take some hits with the tiny whoop style canopy design.. Its got some speed to it too with the shape and light weight. I was thinking of switching that from the 4s motors to some power 6s motors and see how fast i can get it lol. I know those ESC's can handle it, i just dont know if i will be able to get the TBS GPS to work, i tried once and it just didnt add anything to the OSD, which is a TBS OSD, which you really cant get a BF OSD to work with its weird.. But yeah everything they make has always literally been top quality, even the accessories are always nice and well designed and well priced as well. I love my Tango 2 still as well and i only use my other TX for my ELRS drone's.
I had a bit of a different experience attempting to install this stack on the Mario 5 DC frame. I was unable to completely tighten one of the 30x30 adapter rails due to the screws bottoming out on the press nut before the adapter could suck down completely. Unfortunately, even with the front end of the frame removed, with the screw installed into the press nut, it's not possible to spin the mount on either. At this point, I'd have to drill the threads out of the press nuts to make this work.
it's pretty tough to cut these without causing some kind of jagged edges, the copper and PCB is so heavy duty. we did get a knife so it's a bit better now than before :)
It's not particularly unusual hens why I never mentioned it. A quick sand will always make it look better but I would not hold it against them. Even DJI O3 camera PCB has the same.
I like the FC design. Before moving to digital my favorite FC was the whitenoise synergy - no more issues with trying to find a safe spot in the frame for the rx. **but** - no PinIO on the VTX power rail == no sale to me. So close. e : the changes to the ESC design do make sense. I wonder if it can be paired with a traditional 30x30 FC via the extra adapters?
I fly Source Ones exclusively, and I always change the screws out because the original ones, eventually grind off and you can't get them out, easily. I also use Brain-3D's camera mounts. Best frame on the market. That Mario, looks very interesting! 😃 I have a bunch of SpeedyBee 50/60 amp Stacks. My best LR 7" actually has 50 mm Standoffs on it.
I fly Mario 5 and Source One. My opinion is if you own a 3D printer Source One all the way, if you don't get a Mario 5 with the TPU kit. This review couldn't have been more perfect. I let out an audible "LFG IAN!!!" when you mounted it in a Mario just so I don't have to. My first AM32 stack will clearly be the Lucid. I'm looking forward to trying it.
Did you finish building this quad? just wondering if everything works ok, I am on my second FC and still having problems with it no OSD and gps not working
What would be the best FC and ESC for a LR 7" please ? I was thinking about the Stack GEPRC Taker F722 BL32 70A ICM42688-P(SPI) but I'm not knowledgeable.
@@chrisfpv5706 there not enough friction sandwiching arms they move and pivot on m3's as holes are too big. No matter how tight. I went to 10.9 cap heads and really cranked guess what still loose. I need up binding plates with a little dab or polyurethane adhesive. Frames garbage period
Gorilla mount is obviously the better and more elegant solution, hands down. That said, there is nothing wrong with traditional stacks from respectable manufacturers. Apart from elegance and price, I do not see any added functional value.
Humm what was your point agin ohh yea they could have saved a bit on packaging that was it right .well point taken. note to nobody save on packaging. save in circular file t.i.o.t.e
fair review. thumbs up!
respect.
Out of stock. You suck TBS 👎
🤘
@@cinemoriahFPVback in stock very soon. Many dealers still got stock :)
Time and Time again always completely honest. One of a very very small handful of UA-cam channels I absolutely trust. Thanks SOOOOOO much
Just added the gorilla mounting to my soon to release Baron V2 frame. Still need more testing, but so far, so good. Some people might complain about the unconventional mounting, but I like the out of the box thinking. If anything, it should help further isolate the stack from frame resonance.
Great close up video of the FC & ESC, combined with your explanation of the individual components and pads. Nice 👍
I love my Mario 5 - I built one with all SpeedyBee parts including the Emax Eco II motors that they sell, and it instantly became my best flying quad using Betaflight stock defaults for filters and PIDs. Later I threw away the SpeedyBee VTX and put in a Rush Tank Solo - my favourite build to date by a long way.
I have a Steele Apex frame I’m about to build with the freestyle stack. So glad you did this review. Excited for the build even with to the weird mounting. Tbs has always been great and pushing the industry, so I have no doubts I’ll be pleased
Thanks for a great review and for what it’s worth… I had 2 ESC failures thus far. Both on motor 3, the one next to mounting hole…. FET shorting to negative. Just maybe TBS have a point or stats we do not ? How about putting out a FET failure survey ?
You can also just drill 4 new holes in your bottom plate in many cases. Overall it's a better solution. Solves other issues newbies make like over tightening the stack screws and eating up all their dampening or not having a "golden nut" at the bottom of the stack. The long skinny design better matches the shape of our frames. I think they could have made the adapter from the FC to the ESC a heatsink on the ESC but it's likely overrated for the weight penalty. I'm all for changing the standards when it offers benefits. In this case it's just a few holes in the carbon. I certainly wouldn't want dji to make the 04 system fit in the 19mm spacing we typically have for cameras if it means we have to sacrifice image quality. Frames should evolve to suite the hardware not the other way.
I like standard things, but I understand that the way most manufacturers design their ESC's is a workaround to make 4 high current ESC fit in 30x30 standard made for FC's back in 2014.
Those bumps on the motor pads are sk "tented vias" , a more expensive process than regular vias.
I'd bet money that the vias they are using can carry more current than castellations.
@@ddegn I tent to solder my motor wires vertically to the castellations. I route them around the stack screw beneath the ESC, then bend 90 degrees vertically up into the castellation and solder there.
@@timlong7289 Interesting. Thanks.
Yea I also like this approach.
Sometimes you have to set a new standard. There isn't any reason, that I can see, for FCs or ESC blocks to be square.
When assembling a frame like this, blue-tacking it together first, makes life easier. The blue-tak squeezes out when you tighten the screws.
I got two of them... I really like the mount... much more compact than my Reapers...
I just wish it had KISS...
AM32... it's my new esc... I don't have any 20x20 kiss FCFC's yet though...
I'm using the 30x30 adapter...
Mario (and Volador) both have the stupid double layer of bottom and middle plates in the back, ostensibly for the receiver, but in practice you need to almost disassemble the entire frame to access that area if god forbid your RX antenna needs to be replaced.. Otherwise a nice budget frame.
Always better to get hands-on time with this stuff before criticizing it. It's just better. I saw it right away, but I get why some would be critical at first; it's different & humans are notorious for disliking change.
Ian, your first review of this product was spot on. They should have picked a standard mount pattern. I would really like to see more ESC manufacturers put holes on the motor pads like the GEPRC TAKER H70 70A. Also, Why don't more FCs come with a plug to quickly change from ELRS to Crossfire, and back.
once you go black, you never go back ;)
A new mounting pattern? Whahaha, the audacity! 🤭 One of the reasons I love them. And to be honest, I've looked at those corner fets many times and often wondered "that can't be good, but there's no play room🤔" And now TBS fixed that, and the symmetry definitely works for my Asperger too🤫
Great video and beautiful close-ups, thanks Ian!
Honestly, I bought the stack just to support TBS. That being said, I hope the stack holds up because I like the Gorilla mount. Passing on the source one frame tho.
Don't have personal experience with ALL of TBS's electronics, especially as I don't fly as much analog or use their radio links...
But
Having gone over a lot of their prior PCB design test results with other companies I have worked with, I can say that they have some of the best EMI and RF designed products in FPV. And many in the industry look up to their designs.
If this new stuff is anything like that, it will be popular with people that fly for a living. Or need the reliability.
Personally I'll stick with my free electronics I get from work, as they don't last long in my smashy hands anyway. But if I was flying close to civilians or doing cinematic jobs I would be 100% confident to stick them in a build.
I have some older TBS Drones they sold, the TBS Vendetta and the TBS Oblivion. They both have the TBS Powercube 6s plus the FPVision Board its called that has the PDB on it and a TBS Unify VTX built-in to the FPVision board which is the bottom board. Theres a really nice multi-pin connector to add each PCB Board layer on top. So then you add each individual ESC Boards, 4 of them lol, then the FC on top which is the COLIBRI_RACE F3 Flight Controller.
The Flight controller was made for the TBS Powercube setup because it had the thru-pins in it as well. So each ESC Board, FPV/VTX Board, and FC Board have no wires connecting them and each ESC is rated for 50A and they each have little Cap's built-into the design.
They fly great and both have 4s motor setups, but i think one day i will try them with 6s rated motors. The F3 FC honestly flies fine with the older version of Betaflight already on it and it was professionally tuned before i bought all of the stuff from someone.
I also got a Tango 2 with it because the Colibri FC had the mount for the Nano RX and a plug in for the Micro RX. So it had Crossfire even way back then in 2016-2018/9. My Tango 2 had the V1 PCB in it when I got it which the guy at TBS said was only on the first pre-order batch for about a month. So it was an original until i went to the V3 PCB for the 1W power.
I love flying the TBS Vendetta, but i broke one arm, and since it has that quick-change arm design where it has a XT30-3 Pin for the motors where the arms meet the Frame. So no resoldering if you broke something like a motor, you could have spare arms made up with motors and plugs already to swap on, which was a pretty cool idea..
However they seem to be discontinued now and I only have one extra arm for it so i figured id only fly it once and awhile lol. I have other drones and its just too cool to ruin it lol..
The TBS Oblivion is like a big avata without the ducts basically, idk what you would call that. Its a completely plastic design with reinforments and it feels nice and strong and it can take some hits with the tiny whoop style canopy design..
Its got some speed to it too with the shape and light weight. I was thinking of switching that from the 4s motors to some power 6s motors and see how fast i can get it lol. I know those ESC's can handle it, i just dont know if i will be able to get the TBS GPS to work, i tried once and it just didnt add anything to the OSD, which is a TBS OSD, which you really cant get a BF OSD to work with its weird..
But yeah everything they make has always literally been top quality, even the accessories are always nice and well designed and well priced as well. I love my Tango 2 still as well and i only use my other TX for my ELRS drone's.
They are well made! I really like that FC.
clean design.
going to buy!
I had a bit of a different experience attempting to install this stack on the Mario 5 DC frame. I was unable to completely tighten one of the 30x30 adapter rails due to the screws bottoming out on the press nut before the adapter could suck down completely. Unfortunately, even with the front end of the frame removed, with the screw installed into the press nut, it's not possible to spin the mount on either. At this point, I'd have to drill the threads out of the press nuts to make this work.
YEAH! Fun informative video, thank you
Plenty of stl support for the S1V5 to get your 03 camera mounted!
I couldn't stop looking at the jagged edges where the pcb's snapped apart on that FC!!!
it's pretty tough to cut these without causing some kind of jagged edges, the copper and PCB is so heavy duty. we did get a knife so it's a bit better now than before :)
It's not particularly unusual hens why I never mentioned it. A quick sand will always make it look better but I would not hold it against them. Even DJI O3 camera PCB has the same.
There is an o3 set of prints. You can make it work.
I like the FC design. Before moving to digital my favorite FC was the whitenoise synergy - no more issues with trying to find a safe spot in the frame for the rx.
**but**
- no PinIO on the VTX power rail == no sale to me. So close.
e : the changes to the ESC design do make sense. I wonder if it can be paired with a traditional 30x30 FC via the extra adapters?
Great video Ian👏🏻💜🤘🏻
I fly Source Ones exclusively, and I always change the screws out because the original ones, eventually grind off and you can't get them out, easily. I also use Brain-3D's camera mounts.
Best frame on the market.
That Mario, looks very interesting! 😃 I have a bunch of SpeedyBee 50/60 amp Stacks.
My best LR 7" actually has 50 mm Standoffs on it.
I love my source one v5...I have 2 I only wish the arms were quick change
@@Krash_fpv Amen to that
I'm also assuming this layout would be cheaper to manufacture, which means better for us
Clean Quality!
You have an arm mounted upside down or something. Your X isn't quite symmetrical.
I triggered on that too.
i kinda wish more escs offered dual mounting, and i wish 16mm stacks would come back with elrs in them
or just do 5in1 30mm, and y r there so few at32?
With diatone shutting down, I guess i go to TBS.
Also gets the ESC mounting bolts away from the arms
Been waiting for this one. Thx
I fly Mario 5 and Source One. My opinion is if you own a 3D printer Source One all the way, if you don't get a Mario 5 with the TPU kit. This review couldn't have been more perfect. I let out an audible "LFG IAN!!!" when you mounted it in a Mario just so I don't have to. My first AM32 stack will clearly be the Lucid. I'm looking forward to trying it.
LFG
Is the Flight Controller just for Quads, or Wing capable?
Did you finish building this quad? just wondering if everything works ok, I am on my second FC and still having problems with it no OSD and gps not working
What would be the best FC and ESC for a LR 7" please ?
I was thinking about the Stack GEPRC Taker F722 BL32 70A ICM42688-P(SPI) but I'm not knowledgeable.
The gorilla has won this battle... but there are more to come! 🤣
Grab the arms and move them
yep the arms are not in the right orientation ;)
@@chrisfpv5706 there not enough friction sandwiching arms they move and pivot on m3's as holes are too big. No matter how tight. I went to 10.9 cap heads and really cranked guess what still loose. I need up binding plates with a little dab or polyurethane adhesive. Frames garbage period
the arms on the source one are around the wrong way
Why do I want stacks if I can't fly thanks to DJI issue......
Not if it's made in China you won't
wow looks those chips aren't going anywhere even on a very severe crash!
Is any update in belheli 32 of unlock un Bootloader
any news on goggles 3 and o3 problem?
You did not weigh the stack with all the mounts and screws.
wondering if you could tell me the name of the driver with the blue cap used to assemble the stack. or a link
Ifixit tool kit. They have many.
I really like how TBS is staying relevant!! Trappy is the MAN!
hopefully they make tango 3
@@WegaFPV let's hope not.
Tbs fan boys will be happy now😅
30:11 ❤ 😂 “Humble pie”
TPU front ends are way tougher than Al.
Gorilla Mount, Monkey Braket or Primate Adapter, whatever you want to call it, the damned thing is awesome. Thats all I know! 😃👍
vista units work yo
Gorilla mount is obviously the better and more elegant solution, hands down. That said, there is nothing wrong with traditional stacks from respectable manufacturers. Apart from elegance and price, I do not see any added functional value.
U need to flip arm #3
Yea I know.
About the only advantage I can see is not having to deal with those stupid plastic nuts on the stack.
solved a problem that didnt exist
Agreed 100%. Those battery pads on the esc are so close to the mount it is terrible design. Overcomplicated stuff from tbs as always.
Adapters should not be conductive metal.
Neither should the carbon frames.
Overcomplicated stuff for no reason 🤷🏻♂️
120$ xD thats a joke
31:55 apart from lower production costs, there shouldn’t be much difference
Humm what was your point agin ohh yea they could have saved a bit on packaging that was it right .well point taken. note to nobody save on packaging. save in circular file t.i.o.t.e