Glad you had fun. (I recently bought one for a bargain price from fleaBay.) The Hobby Boss is MUCH better than the ancient Airfix 1960s tooling I grew up with, even though it has some inaccuracies (eg the rear seat should face backwards, and no second joystick) and the cockpit itself is very bare. In the old days we referred to reference photos in order to build up an ‘indication’ of an interior, from plastic card, rods, and strips. I agree that it’s a pity the bomb racks are moulded on when they were accessories. Or otherwise not to supply some bombs! No manufacturer these days seems to supply crew! Tips for newbies: The rear machine gun should have been inserted into the slot before the canopy is added, at the point where the MG barrel meets the MG body. Luftwaffe splinter camo of the early war period did have hard lines, which can be easily masked with tape for airbrush or brush painting (if brushing, brush from the tape inwards to avoid building up a little ridge of paint around the tape edge). I find flat brushes helpful for covering areas smoothly. Mottling. Tip from ancient Frog kits from 40-50 years ago(!) Make a special brush for the purpose. Take a round brush, trim off the bristles with a straight cut, and apply paint by dabbing over the area required. Brushes do not have to be too expensive. And if carefully cleaned and looked after will last for ages. Alternatively, or in addition, buy a cheap sponge and rip out little pieces to use to dab the paint, not too thickly. Luftwaffe mottling was used to transition the fuselage from light undersurface to dark upper surface. The mottling should be applied before the upper surface solid colour. The mottling usually has two colours. I use a cut down No6 brush for the lighter tone, and cut down No3 for the darker tone in smaller splotches. If your paint ends up looking a bit thick, it will stand a little colour sanding with 1200 or finer sand paper or a sanding stick or sponge. A gentle pressure for a light sand in direction of airflow. The paint can be given a gentle rinse with a sponge (rinse sponge frequently) to pick up any remaining paint dust. It’s surprising how much is left! Then it’s over to the thin glossy varnish pre-decal. Hope these tips may be of use to newcomers or returners to the hobby.
Easy kits to make but sadly their decals let them down...while i havent built all of their kits (obviously) but of all of the one i have built their decals crack and tear if you so much as look at them...at least thats my experiance of them
Just got this kit, l prefer simple kits as l enjoy the painting more. Always hand paint and l think that you have done a great job handpainting this model!
Hi Matt, great build, though I think I've spotted an error with the kit, thought that the rear seat was for the gunner, so should be the other way around and why did they have a control stick?
That is an interesting point. I feel though the seat could pivot to face rearward? But the second control column is more like a training plane… I’d have to do more research on this
There should be three seats: The pilot seat is correct, attached to the cockpit floor. Next the radio operator seat that looks like a pad, mounted on the wing spar I think, facing forwards and finally the rear gunner seat facing backwards, this one is incorrect in shape and should be mounted on a pedestal, not directly on the cockpit floor, behind the pilot station, the rest of the cockpit is at a lower level, the pedestal for the rear seat will compensate.
Been looking forward to seeing this… Your BUILD ( model ) looks great… I like referring it as a MODEL BUILD doesn’t sound FUN !!!!!!! I’ve enjoyed your CHANNEL for a few years now… ALWAYS GREAT CONTENT REVIEWS, Always keep watching 👀 CHRIS from OHIO 🇺🇸
Not sure it is a turboprop… turboprops have a bit of a jet engine mixed in to the process to turn the propeller whereas this is pretty much just an internal combustion engine
I think the engines and spinners would be ok but you might have to overcome removing the bombracks; I think also that the square thing on the nose above the MGs is for the E version so would need removing.
Nice little project to try out some brush painting techniques, although I think the kit is let down a little with the lack of detail and the out of scale MG. Good effort Matt and thanks for sharing.
Hi Matt.. nice to see another video from you :) Re mixing paints.. may I suggest using image editing software on your computer? Create a custom colour on that and when you're happy it looks right the hex value should give you the RGB proportions to give an idea of what colours to mix and how much of each :)
Nice go at the blending technique. Am sure with more experience you'll be a banger at it. Especially with armor (armour) , should look great. Good kit for getting going again. Well done Matt 👍☕🐢
Hi matt,what's the best way of making clouds for an a 1/72 aircraft flying just above them on a stand and the best way of making it as though the propeller is turning too.thanks andy
Hmm, clouds traditionally seem to be cotton wool, with highlights airbrushed on, but there could be other methods I’m not aware off. Spinning props can be done with motors, or a clear disc of plastic and the “spinning” prop painted on
The HOBBY TOWN, my closest hobby shop, is carrying REVELL PAINTS old HUMBROL colors, YES I’M going to start buying them GREAT FOR FIGURES…. just my opinion ??????? CHRIS from OHIO 🇺🇸
I forgot they were included - after having cut off the majority of transfers that I needed (and there were a lot) those ones got overlooked. I'm sure I probably missed a few stencils in other places too. I'll save them for another project
Best decals are usually cartograph, so Airfix and Revell tend to have those - there are others but it’s not as consistent with their inclusion. Worst is generally Mistercraft kits (I’d throw in the older academy ones too, being thick and unwilling to stick to the model)
@@randomnickify It's really ridiculous. This would be clearly harmless use of a symbol that was banned almost 80 years ago. Battlefield V's war story "The Last Tiger" comes to mind. A story of war full of killing, themes of brainwashing, animated images of hanged people but a cross? Nah, it would be soo inappropriate. Politically? Yes, such groups should be prevented from forming again, so definitely ban the symbol. But for media depicting history?
![P-38 Lightning by Hobby Boss [1:72]](/img/n.gif)
Glad you had fun. (I recently bought one for a bargain price from fleaBay.)
The Hobby Boss is MUCH better than the ancient Airfix 1960s tooling I grew up with, even though it has some inaccuracies (eg the rear seat should face backwards, and no second joystick) and the cockpit itself is very bare. In the old days we referred to reference photos in order to build up an ‘indication’ of an interior, from plastic card, rods, and strips.
I agree that it’s a pity the bomb racks are moulded on when they were accessories. Or otherwise not to supply some bombs! No manufacturer these days seems to supply crew!
Tips for newbies:
The rear machine gun should have been inserted into the slot before the canopy is added, at the point where the MG barrel meets the MG body.
Luftwaffe splinter camo of the early war period did have hard lines, which can be easily masked with tape for airbrush or brush painting (if brushing, brush from the tape inwards to avoid building up a little ridge of paint around the tape edge). I find flat brushes helpful for covering areas smoothly.
Mottling.
Tip from ancient Frog kits from 40-50 years ago(!) Make a special brush for the purpose. Take a round brush, trim off the bristles with a straight cut, and apply paint by dabbing over the area required.
Brushes do not have to be too expensive. And if carefully cleaned and looked after will last for ages.
Alternatively, or in addition, buy a cheap sponge and rip out little pieces to use to dab the paint, not too thickly.
Luftwaffe mottling was used to transition the fuselage from light undersurface to dark upper surface.
The mottling should be applied before the upper surface solid colour.
The mottling usually has two colours. I use a cut down No6 brush for the lighter tone, and cut down No3 for the darker tone in smaller splotches.
If your paint ends up looking a bit thick, it will stand a little colour sanding with 1200 or finer sand paper or a sanding stick or sponge. A gentle pressure for a light sand in direction of airflow. The paint can be given a gentle rinse with a sponge (rinse sponge frequently) to pick up any remaining paint dust. It’s surprising how much is left!
Then it’s over to the thin glossy varnish pre-decal.
Hope these tips may be of use to newcomers or returners to the hobby.
Thanks for the info
it took you a COUPLE OF EVENINGS to mask the canopy!? that's some serious commitment right there
lol yeah, it really tried my patience
I honestly love seeing you pain with brushes, since near everyone else uses an airbrush which I don't have.
thanks! Brush painting can be quite tricky
@@ModelMinutes It can be indeed, though you seem to have brush painting down pretty well.
Awesome! This has got me excited to start on my Eduard BF-110 (weekend edition). I just finished the Airfix RAF bomber resupply set today.
I’m sure the Eduard bf110 is much better than this one 😊
Having built the Eduard BF110-C Profipack kit in 1/72, it's an awesome kit and build :3
glad to see you back!!!, seems like a good, easy kit, more fun than a technical kit!!
Yes, there is some fun to be had with this one :D
Thanks for the video. Nice kit to build with the younger kids.
Yeah not too challenging build-wise
For a cheaper kit, it has come out very well Matt. Thanks for the live chat too!
Thanks for tuning in :D
Easy kits to make but sadly their decals let them down...while i havent built all of their kits (obviously) but of all of the one i have built their decals crack and tear if you so much as look at them...at least thats my experiance of them
I really liked the painting of the plane in this video. Impeccable technique!
Thanks 🙏
Just got this kit, l prefer simple kits as l enjoy the painting more. Always hand paint and l think that you have done a great job handpainting this model!
thanks!
Wow came out a lot better than I thought it would
thanks very much :D
Hi Matt, looks great
Thanks ☺️
Another great build
Thanks 😊
The 110 was pur Main night fighter in later Periode, thank you very much
Thanks for watching
Hi Matt, great build, though I think I've spotted an error with the kit, thought that the rear seat was for the gunner, so should be the other way around and why did they have a control stick?
That is an interesting point. I feel though the seat could pivot to face rearward? But the second control column is more like a training plane…
I’d have to do more research on this
There should be three seats: The pilot seat is correct, attached to the cockpit floor. Next the radio operator seat that looks like a pad, mounted on the wing spar I think, facing forwards and finally the rear gunner seat facing backwards, this one is incorrect in shape and should be mounted on a pedestal, not directly on the cockpit floor, behind the pilot station, the rest of the cockpit is at a lower level, the pedestal for the rear seat will compensate.
I did the airfix BF110 as Hess' last flight a while back. You did a good job with this build and I'm tempted to make another one now.
You should 😊
Been looking forward to seeing this…
Your BUILD ( model ) looks great…
I like referring it as a MODEL
BUILD doesn’t sound FUN !!!!!!!
I’ve enjoyed your CHANNEL for a few years now…
ALWAYS GREAT CONTENT
REVIEWS,
Always keep watching 👀
CHRIS from OHIO 🇺🇸
Thanks very much Chris! Glad you enjoyed the video :D
Nice built...🙂👍👍 At least a bit oversized MG at the back..
Thanks! Yeah it does look big
Besides the B25J Mitchell & Dornier Do 214, 217 & Junkers 88 & Heinkel 177 Greif all turboprops. Those other Dornier turboprops.
Not sure it is a turboprop… turboprops have a bit of a jet engine mixed in to the process to turn the propeller whereas this is pretty much just an internal combustion engine
I have been trying to determine if the C variant (as in 110C) could be built with this kit.
Hmmm possibly but I’m not sure of the differences
I think the engines and spinners would be ok but you might have to overcome removing the bombracks; I think also that the square thing on the nose above the MGs is for the E version so would need removing.
Nice little project to try out some brush painting techniques, although I think the kit is let down a little with the lack of detail and the out of scale MG. Good effort Matt and thanks for sharing.
Yeah it’s not got the best details 😂
Hi Matt.. nice to see another video from you :) Re mixing paints.. may I suggest using image editing software on your computer? Create a custom colour on that and when you're happy it looks right the hex value should give you the RGB proportions to give an idea of what colours to mix and how much of each :)
Thanks for the tip!
The Bf-110 was almost as big as the bombers it was sent to protect. It was withdrawn as a frontline fighter during the Battle of Britain.
thanks for sharing!
@@ModelMinutes 😂
I‘ve build this Kit in the Night-Fighter Version!👍
Nice!
Nice go at the blending technique. Am sure with more experience you'll be a banger at it. Especially with armor (armour) , should look great. Good kit for getting going again. Well done Matt 👍☕🐢
Thanks! I’ll have to get some more practice with wet blending 😊
Nice!!, Podrias hacerlo nuevamente, pero esta vez pintado con aerógrafo
good to hear!
Hi matt,what's the best way of making clouds for an a
1/72 aircraft flying just above them on a stand and the best way of making it as though the propeller is turning too.thanks andy
Hmm, clouds traditionally seem to be cotton wool, with highlights airbrushed on, but there could be other methods I’m not aware off.
Spinning props can be done with motors, or a clear disc of plastic and the “spinning” prop painted on
That's a nice looking turboprop plane BF 110 nice model. ❤😊🎉🇩🇪🇩🇪🇩🇪
Thanks for watching 😊
The HOBBY TOWN, my closest hobby shop, is carrying REVELL PAINTS
old HUMBROL colors, YES
I’M going to start buying them
GREAT FOR FIGURES….
just my opinion ???????
CHRIS from OHIO 🇺🇸
Yeah, probably really good for figures - they aren't the best quality paint but they work well enough
Not bad ! How was the wet-technique to use ?
Took a bit of practice to get them to flow into each other
Good build, but why didn’t you put the swastika decals on?
I forgot they were included - after having cut off the majority of transfers that I needed (and there were a lot) those ones got overlooked. I'm sure I probably missed a few stencils in other places too. I'll save them for another project
Hi Matt, great video, just a quick question, what kit have you built that have had the best decals and the worst decals? Thanks
Best decals are usually cartograph, so Airfix and Revell tend to have those - there are others but it’s not as consistent with their inclusion.
Worst is generally Mistercraft kits (I’d throw in the older academy ones too, being thick and unwilling to stick to the model)
That's 10 years ago of this model kit aircraft.
Still relatively recent in terms of tooling I suppose
That rear machine gun looks more like a 20mm cannon rather than a machine gun
Yeah it does look rather large
I see you decided not to use the included swastikas?
Hmmm, it took me so long to build this one I must have just forgotten they were included in the kit. I’ll save them for another project
Yes, Great way to get the video banned on some territories and demonetized on others, all because a piece of decal :)
@@randomnickify It's really ridiculous. This would be clearly harmless use of a symbol that was banned almost 80 years ago. Battlefield V's war story "The Last Tiger" comes to mind. A story of war full of killing, themes of brainwashing, animated images of hanged people but a cross? Nah, it would be soo inappropriate.
Politically? Yes, such groups should be prevented from forming again, so definitely ban the symbol. But for media depicting history?
THATS WHAT SHE SAID - not even sorry
Lol 😂
..very bad...........
what is?