Very well executed model. Now I'm beginning to fully comprehend just how these kits demand so much expense these days with all the cockpit interior pieces they provide for detailing. When I first started in this craft everything extra was fabricated from bits and bobs, or the sprues that were heated, stretched and formed to make all the conduits for controls or wiring. Beautifully done kit.
Thanks for this video. I have this one on the shelf and it was next in the build queue. But after watching your vid I decided to skip it for a while and go for something with a little less putty required ;)
all done with the Ultra from Harder Steenbeck... it's a very good airbrush and you can tune it with the infinity needle cap for even smaller detailing.
Ohh great and nice job on this lovely and beautiful aircraft, specially in this version that was clean as a heavy fighter, for one reason it was Goering's favorite airplane. A brief comment and suggestion, in minute 9:36 that gap has to be there because that part was the flap of the wing and had that space including the wheel cover. :)
@@TurbineModels ohh you are welcome. Yes I wait with great excitement your next proyect. There are still a lot of great planes from this Battle of Britain series, such as Do-17, Ju-88A-1, Paul Bulton Defiant, also italian fighters like Fiat G50 and CR42. Greetings!!!
Your artistry is excellent, however I feel I should comment on the 'gaps'. The fuselage of the 110, like its stablemate the 109, was built in two halves and then assembled, leaving a very distinctive seam along the spine and belly. The junction of the engine nacelles and the flaps is also quite distinct because the flaps have to be able to move down whilst the nacelle is fixed in place. As depicted they cannot move.
Thanks for sharing with us! I have one constructive remark. At 10:00, the seam on the flap should be filled. The seam is right under your left pointer finger's fingernail. The Bf-110 had a slotted flap (meaning the entire flap extended), not a split flap. Nice work on the painting and weathering though! I look forward to building the 1/48 Bf-110D from Eduard soon.
In one of my favorite books called The Greatest American Fighter Pilots of WW2 I read that Col. Scott flew against German Me-110s in China, I wanted to know if they had German or Japanese markings on them?
This is some bulshit (sry) Germans Luftwaffe don´t fight in China. And Japan have Ki-45 and other. (sorry for me verry bad english) Original CZ : je to nesmysl ,Luftwaffe nebojovala v Číně a Japonci měli své letouny, například Ki-45 .nebyl vůbec žádný důvod pro přítomnost Bf-110 . Americké ,,dokumenty " a bohužel i hodně knih jsou plné podobných nesmyslů.
Привет ! Хорошая сборка . Ни что так приносит удольствия жизни когда занимаешся любимым увлечением . А что за музыка не можете ли оставить на треки сылку
Спасибо большое! Я не говорю по-русски, я надеюсь, что Google Translator делает это хорошо. Вся музыка доступна на UA-cam бесплатно по этой ссылке: ua-cam.com/users/audiolibrarymusic?nv=1
Turbine Models PFD=Primary Flight Display. AKA artificial horizon, 8 Ball is what American pilots, especially Astronauts call it.images.app.goo.gl/J3A8nz4ENUbsFu257 In this pic there are two. One primary, one back up. Primary directly in the center, electronic, ( like a computer monitor ), and down and to the left of that, is the backup PFD. Electromechanical, AKA "Steam Guage", looking more like yours. See what I mean, a bit modern ? I'm going to see if I can find a photo, post the link here. I should think aircraft of that era would likely have a simpler PFD. Black background, white lines for the moving = --- v --- = bar, and two thicker white lines for the horizon lines. However, I'm not exactly sure. Here you go. images.app.goo.gl/T6UPYHxLk9AxYBQZA In this pic, the PFD is in the center, directly beneath the turn and bank indicator. ( The guage with the bubble level ) Or this one. images.app.goo.gl/Fd2HZ94N9s8FG6dp8
It really is a shame. I was surprised he needed this much. I built BF109G-10 a month ago and only needed a tiny bit of putty at the nose. Eduard kit as well.
In my UA-cam chanel you can find a video about a BF 109 of Eduard where i didnt need putty...it is more related with model mould sometimes they are better than others
A friend of mine built this kit soon after it was released. He was extremely disappointed with Eduard with the horrible fit of what was a 100% new tooled kit. Its the only kit I ever heard him complain about building ever. Their Fw 190 D kit is similar in the fit of the fuselage halves and wings is horrible. Other kits they make are fantastic so you have to do your research when buying Eduard kits.
The Bf110 was one of their first kits after they changed from a limited run (cottage industry) to full manufacturer. I have their 110 E on the bench, now. And, from researching the Dragon 1/32 Nf 110C-7 kit, I found that the cockpit could be painted in 3 basic ways. Most C & D models used RLM02 as base, Sone received RLM66 repaints above about elbow level when the change to 66 was formally managed in 1949. The E models, many of which were unfinished Ds, were done in this fashion initially, then changed to overall RLM 66. I chose the two tone for my C, as it was for a North African based Nightfighter.
Interesting to see that you Spent GOOD MONEY on a model with LOUSY Fit issues! The Nose, engine cowlings and anywhere else you didn't show us. Using EPOXY was a GOOD MOVE! I use Two part Automotive BONDO... To fill Canyons, Fissures, same as epoxy two parts but BONDO once mixed you have about 20 minutes to shape sand flush. Then it gets harder than a rock. At that stage it's still can be sanded ,though takes a bit more time.. Point of my statement is.... Eduard, Tamiya, ICM, Hasagawa, Great Wall, Trumpeter and many other model companies Charge us BIG BUCKS you would think we'd get Perfect Fitting models but NOPE! I thank you for showing the fit issues with this model. Yes it is a good kit, the truth about it before I buy it is appreciated. Blessings Darrell Killingsworth
So much use of filler for a poorly fitted part. Dry fit. then sand to find a better fit. With all the bad fits the final model will not be accurate. sorry
I'm impressed by the artful painting of the cockpit! Wonderful panel line effect. Not too much heavy weathering. Very attractive result.
Very well executed model. Now I'm beginning to fully comprehend just how these kits demand so much expense these days with all the cockpit interior pieces they provide for detailing. When I first started in this craft everything extra was fabricated from bits and bobs, or the sprues that were heated, stretched and formed to make all the conduits for controls or wiring. Beautifully done kit.
Super detail painiting, I built one of these already but I have asecond one so might try this scheme. Good job
Thanks for this video. I have this one on the shelf and it was next in the build queue. But after watching your vid I decided to skip it for a while and go for something with a little less putty required ;)
all done with the Ultra from Harder Steenbeck... it's a very good airbrush and you can tune it with the infinity needle cap for even smaller detailing.
Ohh great and nice job on this lovely and beautiful aircraft, specially in this version that was clean as a heavy fighter, for one reason it was Goering's favorite airplane. A brief comment and suggestion, in minute 9:36 that gap has to be there because that part was the flap of the wing and had that space including the wheel cover. :)
Thank you Ramon, I will take into account your tip next time. Thank you for your coment!
@@TurbineModels ohh you are welcome. Yes I wait with great excitement your next proyect. There are still a lot of great planes from this Battle of Britain series, such as Do-17, Ju-88A-1, Paul Bulton Defiant, also italian fighters like Fiat G50 and CR42. Greetings!!!
Good grief... every time I see a beauty like this I want to get one too. Very well done.
thank you very much!
Your artistry is excellent, however I feel I should comment on the 'gaps'. The fuselage of the 110, like its stablemate the 109, was built in two halves and then assembled, leaving a very distinctive seam along the spine and belly. The junction of the engine nacelles and the flaps is also quite distinct because the flaps have to be able to move down whilst the nacelle is fixed in place. As depicted they cannot move.
Thank you!. I will take into account next time
@@TurbineModels Check out my instagram omerdraws.xx
Exactly. Was going to be my only suggestion. Especially liked the idea of stretched sprite as a gap filler. Good option especially for larger gaps.
Nice work- this is a tough one and you did a great job. I liked the epoxy putty for the nacelles. Good idea 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing with us! I have one constructive remark. At 10:00, the seam on the flap should be filled. The seam is right under your left pointer finger's fingernail. The Bf-110 had a slotted flap (meaning the entire flap extended), not a split flap. Nice work on the painting and weathering though! I look forward to building the 1/48 Bf-110D from Eduard soon.
Thank you so much. I know, the flap was wrong :). I promise take into account the next time :)
Magnifique. C’est vraiment du très beau travail. Continuez à nous faire rêver.
Thank you so much!
Amazing detail in the cockpit and I love the finish! 😛
Thank you!!!
Awesome 👍
GREAT WORK!! NOTHING SHORT OF EXCELLENT!!
Thank you very much! And happy new year!!!
@@TurbineModels Happy New Year to you as well!!
When the aircraft was on the ground, the (spring-operated) slats were always extended. This is a flaw of almost every Bf 110 kit.
In one of my favorite books called The Greatest American Fighter Pilots of WW2 I read that Col. Scott flew against German Me-110s in China, I wanted to know if they had German or Japanese markings on them?
This is some bulshit (sry) Germans Luftwaffe don´t fight in China. And Japan have Ki-45 and other. (sorry for me verry bad english) Original CZ : je to nesmysl ,Luftwaffe nebojovala v Číně a Japonci měli své letouny, například Ki-45 .nebyl vůbec žádný důvod pro přítomnost Bf-110 . Americké ,,dokumenty " a bohužel i hodně knih jsou plné podobných nesmyslů.
What battle was that? I don't remember the Germans fighting in China.
Excellant, i just would appreciate if you showed the plane a little bit more after finished, in more detail..
good feedback Marcio, I will try to do it in my following videos
A well executed build,what stencils did you use for the shark mouth and Balkan kreutz markings?.
Hello! Good scrupulous work. Beautiful model.
Thank you so much!! :)
Hello
Good job. What do you use to remove excess of white putty with Q-tip ?
Bonjour d'en France.
Thank you!!. I remove the excess with acetone
Excellent work..!!
Thank you
Finally another video!!
😀
Never, never , never did the Luftaffe go to war in aircraft as dirty as you depict them.
Hahaha...ok Wilfred take it easy, it’s only a kit, not a real airplane 😂
Привет ! Хорошая сборка . Ни что так приносит удольствия жизни когда занимаешся любимым увлечением . А что за музыка не можете ли оставить на треки сылку
Спасибо большое! Я не говорю по-русски, я надеюсь, что Google Translator делает это хорошо.
Вся музыка доступна на UA-cam бесплатно по этой ссылке:
ua-cam.com/users/audiolibrarymusic?nv=1
Interesting post-shading
you were the one person that didn't get a reply from turbine models
what brushes do you use?
Good job! Would you show the name of music themes used in this video?
Thank you!, this time I used the free youtube library, songs are:
listen to the radio
Above planets
Cats and gats
Alaska Sky
GREAT model, just one suggestion. The PFD looks too modern. Maybe that's the way the prototype looks, dunno. But it looks out of place.
thank you for your comment! but I dont know what PFD means.. What is out of place?
Turbine Models
PFD=Primary Flight Display. AKA
artificial horizon, 8 Ball is what American pilots, especially Astronauts call it.images.app.goo.gl/J3A8nz4ENUbsFu257
In this pic there are two. One primary, one back up. Primary directly in the center, electronic, ( like a computer monitor ), and down and to the left of that, is the backup PFD. Electromechanical, AKA "Steam Guage", looking more like yours.
See what I mean, a bit modern ? I'm going to see if I can find a photo, post the link here.
I should think aircraft of that era would likely have a simpler PFD. Black background, white lines for the moving
= --- v --- = bar, and two thicker white lines for the horizon lines. However, I'm not exactly sure.
Here you go. images.app.goo.gl/T6UPYHxLk9AxYBQZA
In this pic, the PFD is in the center, directly beneath the turn and bank indicator. ( The guage with the bubble level )
Or this one. images.app.goo.gl/Fd2HZ94N9s8FG6dp8
Hi Ron... Likewise re PFD?
wow its a shame that the Eduard kit needed so much putty!!
It really is a shame. I was surprised he needed this much. I built BF109G-10 a month ago and only needed a tiny bit of putty at the nose. Eduard kit as well.
In my UA-cam chanel you can find a video about a BF 109 of Eduard where i didnt need putty...it is more related with model mould sometimes they are better than others
A friend of mine built this kit soon after it was released. He was extremely disappointed with Eduard with the horrible fit of what was a 100% new tooled kit. Its the only kit I ever heard him complain about building ever. Their Fw 190 D kit is similar in the fit of the fuselage halves and wings is horrible. Other kits they make are fantastic so you have to do your research when buying Eduard kits.
Добрый день! Отличная работа! Airbrush h&s ultra?
спасибо !!! да это H & S ultra
👍👍👍
That's a turboprop plane
Do you build to sell?
Not usually, are you interested to buy one?
Red meat for Spits and Mustangs!!
but at night a real Monster......
Amazing build sir but I’m so disappointed in the kit.... all them gaps WTH Eduard?
Thank you Jeff!! The detail level is ver good but fitting is not the best in this model...
The Bf110 was one of their first kits after they changed from a limited run (cottage industry) to full manufacturer.
I have their 110 E on the bench, now. And, from researching the Dragon 1/32 Nf 110C-7 kit, I found that the cockpit could be painted in 3 basic ways. Most C & D models used RLM02 as base, Sone received RLM66 repaints above about elbow level when the change to 66 was formally managed in 1949. The E models, many of which were unfinished Ds, were done in this fashion initially, then changed to overall RLM 66. I chose the two tone for my C, as it was for a North African based Nightfighter.
Interesting to see that you Spent GOOD MONEY on a model with LOUSY Fit issues!
The Nose, engine cowlings and anywhere else you didn't show us.
Using EPOXY was a GOOD MOVE! I use Two part Automotive BONDO... To fill Canyons, Fissures, same as epoxy two parts
but BONDO once mixed you have about 20 minutes to shape sand flush. Then it gets harder than a rock. At that stage it's still can be sanded ,though takes a bit more time..
Point of my statement is....
Eduard, Tamiya, ICM, Hasagawa, Great Wall, Trumpeter and many other model companies Charge us BIG BUCKS
you would think we'd get Perfect Fitting models but NOPE!
I thank you for showing the fit issues with this model. Yes it is a good kit, the truth about it before I buy it is appreciated.
Blessings
Darrell Killingsworth
🇩🇪🇩🇪⭐🌟🌠🤔☺️🙂🖌️👍🤗
So much use of filler for a poorly fitted part. Dry fit. then sand to find a better fit. With all the bad fits the final model will not be accurate. sorry
Ross, have you built this model?
Yet another good video spoilt by awful, music. Why do you do it??
🙂 what kind of music do you like George?
George Clarke turn the volume down.