I used treatment on my 2014 Cruze TDI. 280,000 mi. Immediate improvement of 2.3 mpg. Improved power performance which improved shifting. Been 6 mo and car still runs better than pre-treatment. It’s a carbon cleaner. Why would you think it would get rid of a likely mechanical issue. I’ll continue to use it
Thank you so much sir for making this video. That rattling noise is the VVT gears. Evidently if it gets carbon build up on there it causes one of the pieces to fall or not fall back into place (it could also be a guide going bad.) If you send the oil to Blackstone it might show excessive metal if it's really bad. I think once it starts rattling there is no way to fix it w/o replacing the VVT gears.
It seemed he was promoting it after using it only on one car . How many other similar products have I read about . From people that said they used those and they did such and such improvement . Only when it has proven itself LONGTERM , then maybe to buy it then . As I was about to buy both and now decided to wait . And in the meantime , I will use what others have had success with .
Good ole Snake Oil.... I actually miss adjustable intake and exhaust valves, carburetors, rotors, and points. My all original 1973 FORD F250 Camper Special has almost 250,000 miles on her. I just replaced the original starter last month. Only trouble she's ever given me.
Yeah man, I REALLY miss my '73 F250 with the 390 flat top motor, 16'' chrome all-around wheels and glass pack exhaust system. Driving that beast in enclosed parking lots drove car alarms crazy. One full passenger seat, cassette player AND the a/c blew cold. Man how I miss that truck.😔
It isn't snake oil, the f150 ecoboost rattle is usually from loose chains. Rattle occurs when the tensioner becomes maxed out and the rattle goes away when the oil pressure picks up the slop.
Well, now, before we start docking points off of CRO products. There are several factors that can affect outcomes and its also hard to guarantee that the proper application, prep and execution in using these products were adhered to. Plus there are several engine types out there that by the time you start having problems, its too far advanced for a maintenance solution to provide much in the way of positive outcomes. Take my 06 5.4L 3V V8 engine that powers my expedition, the oil channels in the heads are very very small, so by the time I am getting noticeable noise or clicking from the lifters, etc. There is going to be a significant buildup of sludge in those open areas drastically reducing proper oil flow. Carbon cleaners wont fix that. BUT. if you say every 15K miles use reputable products for oil, fuel and air flow - You may never experience these issues, usually that will get passed on to the next owner who probably will not maintain the vehicle the way I do mine. The guys that developed this product are very intelligent regular guys like you and I but they are trying to resolve these common issues for all of us because they understand the pains of an 8,000.00 USD engine replacement. They are not LucasOil or Pennzoil, who I can promise you don't give 2 shits about any of us.
That was essentially the conclusion "too far gone" in the original video but had held out the hope that a second cleaning might do some good. It did not.
@@IsItTrueThat and I should probably pay better attention to the narrative than jumping the gun and making an ass of myself. I think I'm getting a tad sensitive to the cancel culture initiative that I cannot see the difference anymore. My bad on that Mr. Wyatt.
@@Mainbusfail I didn't take it personally. The first video was too long and my disclaimers were somewhat buried. Appreciate your view and viewpoint. I'm with you on cancel culture. Now if you do want to see me take on CRO again, check out this Gas Treatment review. ua-cam.com/video/8KiPCSdTTyY/v-deo.html . Thanks again. I appreciate you giving the video a watch and a comment.
I would use an engine flush at every oil change for your situation . I use either Amsoil or Liqui-Moly engine flush at my 5000 miles oil changes . I have now used BG EPR for the last three changes to see what happens . Haven't noticed any difference and when I change my oil , it is a dark golden color that I can always see through . So , I have gotten rid of any and all built gunk I think . In comparison to seeing so many oil changes where the oil comes out BLACK . I use Pennzoil Platinum 0W16 and a Amsoil filter in my 2020 Toyota Camry . I would use Ultra Platinum if it was available . I always add 8 ounces of Motorkote oil additive at each change also .
@@peterrudy9207 Check Walmart on line. They even deliver for free. It does go out of stock periodically, so just keep it on hand and replace after I change the oil.
Just run the correct engine oil that meets the specifications for the engine and oil filter, change on factory schedule and you won’t have problems. Don’t need any snake oil additives they don’t work. Most oil related problems are from people not using the correct motor oil, not keeping the crank case at the proper level or not servicing the vehicle regularly. I have several Ford gas and diesel engines that have given me impeccable service for hundreds of thousands of miles. I also have other engines by Chevy, John Deere, Case etc. that don’t give me any trouble. I’m a stickler for regular maintenance and proper service materials it makes all the difference in the world
The clater may be timing sir timing chain is worn or your valve springs are weak or you need to shim the valves or adjust the valves. If you need to clean a sticky stuck plugged up oil port put berrymans b12 chem tool in the oil cold run it at 2k RPM for 20 minutes and then change oil and filter. On new change add prolong Motor additive it will slick up your moving parts and possibly get rid of your issues.
You are experiencing the effects of oil starvation to bank 1 - caused by a bad oil pump design: oil gets pushed out of the pump mating surface bypassing the normal oil circuit. Check your oil pressure. Replace the cam phasers and the oil pump with a cast iron one.
Ford F-150 V-6 turbo. If you can't figure out the problem by the aforesaid description then another line of work might be in order. If you want to fix the problem, yank the v6 and turbo out, put a v8 in and delete the turbo. Problem solved.
ATS Carbon Clean is a rip, ordered over 100 dollars of product back in March and still haven't got anything. Called them and they said they send it weeks ago. Now all you get is voicemail when you call!
Note that ATS Carbon Clean is not the manufacture of our products. ATS Chemical LLC is the manufacture and ATS Carbon Clean is one of our main distributors for the product. We, ATS Chemical LLC, are responsible for providing our distributors with product and we have not been able to provide them with enough to keep up with their sales. We have had numerous manufacturing and production delays that are mostly due to the global shortage of goods along with the shipping issues. We have been catching up with production and plan to ship a large amount of our chemical to this distributor next week. This will get them close to being caught up but not 100%. We still have a large batch of chemical in production and expect to be 100% caught up within the next few weeks. This distributor nor us could have predicted the delay in manufacturing and we are doing everything humanly possible to catch up. We are also planning much further out to make sure we have plenty of supplies in our production pipeline to prevent this from happening again.
My order was also back ordered and I got it last week, the third week in May. I added both, changed the oil, and now I am finishing up the fuel treatment. I need to drive my 2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4, with 207,000 miles on him, for about another 75-100 miles. One can treats 5-10 gallons. I have no real problems but I am hoping to improve my gas mileage.
The minute you said TURBO my mind said engine wont last 100k. TURBOs beat engines to DEATH, nothing is going to repair the damage from the abuse a turbo does to an engine. You got a turbo for reason and was aware of the cost of the added pick up which is early death of you the engine.
It won’t work. I have a rav4 which had the cold start rattle. I changed the timing chain intake cam gear, guides and timing chain tensioner and the noise is gone . The tensioner and cam gear was bad. The vvti equipped cars need good synthetic oil and may 3000 mile oil changes
You're right, in this case it definitely didn't work. I don't know what the cause of the problem is on this F-150. The tensioner seems to do its job in all other phases of operation. It's only cold-start where the rattle occurs and I assume it is due to a delay in the tensioner, which I assume is a delay in oil pressure getting to the tensioner in that one scenario. I could be totally wrong. Perhaps there is another part of the valve train that has worn and rattles until sufficient oil pressure reaches it to fill in the gap. I thought I read but am not certain, that these F-150's can run another 100,000 miles despite the few seconds of noise on cold startup. Got to feel good to have done that big job on the Rav-4 and have it been successful. Nice job.
exactly why I only use synthetic since day one, change no later than 4k miles. I also let the vehicle warm up, and drive around the neighborhood to let the engine get to temps before hitting the highway. Once on the highway never gp above 5k at least for the first 10 min unless really necessary.
Thanks Kenneth. I saw his video before we started down this road and passed it on to the owner. It's certainly a work around to prevent the rattling but it's not suggested as a cure nor is it. Additionally from a practical stand point, it is a frustrating and slow way to have to start your cold truck each time. We had hoped this treatment would be a cure but it was not. Thanks for watching.
You're using the wrong product. Dump a can of Liqui Moly in and it will quiet the engine. I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.5L Pentastar engine and it started to have the Pentastar tick. I put a can of the Liqui Moly in and went for a ride. ZERO ticking noise on the next cold startup. When I change my oil, I put 5.5 qts of oil in and 1 can of Liqui Moly and have not heard the tick in over 10,000 miles. Eventually, it will probably need new rockers installed, but not until the tick comes back.
If the noise is not caused by carbon buildup, then cleaning it out will not quiet the noise. A clean engine is still a good thing for other reasons.
Yeah it's not a liquid repair, just a cleaner
Thanks Jeff for keeping us updated. the issue is that the Ford has faulty engineering.
It works. Brought 05 Taurus back to life.
I used treatment on my 2014 Cruze TDI. 280,000 mi. Immediate improvement of 2.3 mpg. Improved power performance which improved shifting. Been 6 mo and car still runs better than pre-treatment. It’s a carbon cleaner. Why would you think it would get rid of a likely mechanical issue. I’ll continue to use it
where did you get it? I can't find any.
@@AuthorJamesBeltz just became available again on website.
Thank you so much sir for making this video. That rattling noise is the VVT gears. Evidently if it gets carbon build up on there it causes one of the pieces to fall or not fall back into place (it could also be a guide going bad.) If you send the oil to Blackstone it might show excessive metal if it's really bad. I think once it starts rattling there is no way to fix it w/o replacing the VVT gears.
It seemed he was promoting it after using it only on one car . How many other similar products have I read about . From people that said they used those and they did such and such improvement . Only when it has proven itself LONGTERM , then maybe to buy it then . As I was about to buy both and now decided to wait . And in the meantime , I will use what others have had success with .
Good ole Snake Oil.... I actually miss adjustable intake and exhaust valves, carburetors, rotors, and points. My all original 1973 FORD F250 Camper Special has almost 250,000 miles on her. I just replaced the original starter last month. Only trouble she's ever given me.
Yeah man, I REALLY miss my '73 F250 with the 390 flat top motor, 16'' chrome all-around wheels and glass pack exhaust system. Driving that beast in enclosed parking lots drove car alarms crazy. One full passenger seat, cassette player AND the a/c blew cold. Man how I miss that truck.😔
It isn't snake oil, the f150 ecoboost rattle is usually from loose chains. Rattle occurs when the tensioner becomes maxed out and the rattle goes away when the oil pressure picks up the slop.
Well, now, before we start docking points off of CRO products. There are several factors that can affect outcomes and its also hard to guarantee that the proper application, prep and execution in using these products were adhered to. Plus there are several engine types out there that by the time you start having problems, its too far advanced for a maintenance solution to provide much in the way of positive outcomes. Take my 06 5.4L 3V V8 engine that powers my expedition, the oil channels in the heads are very very small, so by the time I am getting noticeable noise or clicking from the lifters, etc. There is going to be a significant buildup of sludge in those open areas drastically reducing proper oil flow. Carbon cleaners wont fix that. BUT. if you say every 15K miles use reputable products for oil, fuel and air flow - You may never experience these issues, usually that will get passed on to the next owner who probably will not maintain the vehicle the way I do mine. The guys that developed this product are very intelligent regular guys like you and I but they are trying to resolve these common issues for all of us because they understand the pains of an 8,000.00 USD engine replacement. They are not LucasOil or Pennzoil, who I can promise you don't give 2 shits about any of us.
That was essentially the conclusion "too far gone" in the original video but had held out the hope that a second cleaning might do some good. It did not.
@@IsItTrueThat and I should probably pay better attention to the narrative than jumping the gun and making an ass of myself. I think I'm getting a tad sensitive to the cancel culture initiative that I cannot see the difference anymore. My bad on that Mr. Wyatt.
@@Mainbusfail I didn't take it personally. The first video was too long and my disclaimers were somewhat buried. Appreciate your view and viewpoint. I'm with you on cancel culture. Now if you do want to see me take on CRO again, check out this Gas Treatment review. ua-cam.com/video/8KiPCSdTTyY/v-deo.html . Thanks again. I appreciate you giving the video a watch and a comment.
I would use an engine flush at every oil change for your situation . I use either Amsoil or Liqui-Moly engine flush at my 5000 miles oil changes . I have now used BG EPR for the last three changes to see what happens . Haven't noticed any difference and when I change my oil , it is a dark golden color that I can always see through . So , I have gotten rid of any and all built gunk I think . In comparison to seeing so many oil changes where the oil comes out BLACK . I use Pennzoil Platinum 0W16 and a Amsoil filter in my 2020 Toyota Camry . I would use Ultra Platinum if it was available . I always add 8 ounces of Motorkote oil additive at each change also .
@@peterrudy9207 Check Walmart on line. They even deliver for free. It does go out of stock periodically, so just keep it on hand and replace after I change the oil.
Just run the correct engine oil that meets the specifications for the engine and oil filter, change on factory schedule and you won’t have problems. Don’t need any snake oil additives they don’t work.
Most oil related problems are from people not using the correct motor oil, not keeping the crank case at the proper level or not servicing the vehicle regularly.
I have several Ford gas and diesel engines that have given me impeccable service for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I also have other engines by Chevy, John Deere, Case etc. that don’t give me any trouble. I’m a stickler for regular maintenance and proper service materials it makes all the difference in the world
That 5.4 noise is not gonna be fixed in a can. Phasers, roller followers, timing chain probably the culprit
You're def wrong lol. These newer cars build up a ton of carbon and it has to be cleaned.
Marvel Mystery Oil is the Magic Bullet you're looking for
Its slower working but 100% effective
I have been using MMO for over 30 years....delivers time and time again.
Thanks! Just bought some before watching your video. Will see how it pans out.
Hope it works great for you. If sludgy, grungy buildup is the cause of your issue, this gives you a good chance at fixing it.
How well did 'it pan out' ? :-)
I had an F150 with the same issue. It is a tensioner issue, and it eats away at the chain cover. A cleaner isn’t going to fix a mechanical issue.
The clater may be timing sir timing chain is worn or your valve springs are weak or you need to shim the valves or adjust the valves. If you need to clean a sticky stuck plugged up oil port put berrymans b12 chem tool in the oil cold run it at 2k RPM for 20 minutes and then change oil and filter. On new change add prolong Motor additive it will slick up your moving parts and possibly get rid of your issues.
Ford F-150 v6...not sure there is a magic bullet. We appreciate your efforts though.
Fix or repair daily . Ford is still overpriced junk and so is gm. Toyota currently makes the best vehicles in my opinion just my 2cents
What about Dodge 5.7, and 6.4 ?
You are experiencing the effects of oil starvation to bank 1 - caused by a bad oil pump design: oil gets pushed out of the pump mating surface bypassing the normal oil circuit. Check your oil pressure. Replace the cam phasers and the oil pump with a cast iron one.
My personal experience. I have found that STP Ceramic Nano, quiets my engine, feels smother, and improved my gas mileage.
Ford F-150 V-6 turbo. If you can't figure out the problem by the aforesaid description then another line of work might be in order. If you want to fix the problem, yank the v6 and turbo out, put a v8 in and delete the turbo. Problem solved.
ATS Carbon Clean is a rip, ordered over 100 dollars of product back in March and still haven't got anything. Called them and they said they send it weeks ago. Now all you get is voicemail when you call!
Note that ATS Carbon Clean is not the manufacture of our products. ATS Chemical LLC is the manufacture and ATS Carbon Clean is one of our main distributors for the product. We, ATS Chemical LLC, are responsible for providing our distributors with product and we have not been able to provide them with enough to keep up with their sales. We have had numerous manufacturing and production delays that are mostly due to the global shortage of goods along with the shipping issues. We have been catching up with production and plan to ship a large amount of our chemical to this distributor next week. This will get them close to being caught up but not 100%. We still have a large batch of chemical in production and expect to be 100% caught up within the next few weeks. This distributor nor us could have predicted the delay in manufacturing and we are doing everything humanly possible to catch up. We are also planning much further out to make sure we have plenty of supplies in our production pipeline to prevent this from happening again.
My order was also back ordered and I got it last week, the third week in May. I added both, changed the oil, and now I am finishing up the fuel treatment. I need to drive my 2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4, with 207,000 miles on him, for about another 75-100 miles. One can treats 5-10 gallons. I have no real problems but I am hoping to improve my gas mileage.
Perhaps that is not the correct fix for the problem this vehicle has... 🤔
What is in it? Is it a solvent or detergent?
The minute you said TURBO my mind said engine wont last 100k. TURBOs beat engines to DEATH, nothing is going to repair the damage from the abuse a turbo does to an engine. You got a turbo for reason and was aware of the cost of the added pick up which is early death of you the engine.
Make sure you clean egr valve and pcv valve.
Check timing chain
It won’t work. I have a rav4 which had the cold start rattle. I changed the timing chain intake cam gear, guides and timing chain tensioner and the noise is gone . The tensioner and cam gear was bad. The vvti equipped cars need good synthetic oil and may 3000 mile oil changes
You're right, in this case it definitely didn't work. I don't know what the cause of the problem is on this F-150. The tensioner seems to do its job in all other phases of operation. It's only cold-start where the rattle occurs and I assume it is due to a delay in the tensioner, which I assume is a delay in oil pressure getting to the tensioner in that one scenario. I could be totally wrong. Perhaps there is another part of the valve train that has worn and rattles until sufficient oil pressure reaches it to fill in the gap. I thought I read but am not certain, that these F-150's can run another 100,000 miles despite the few seconds of noise on cold startup.
Got to feel good to have done that big job on the Rav-4 and have it been successful. Nice job.
exactly why I only use synthetic since day one, change no later than 4k miles. I also let the vehicle warm up, and drive around the neighborhood to let the engine get to temps before hitting the highway.
Once on the highway never gp above 5k at least for the first 10 min unless really necessary.
Maybe thicker oil, or a mix of full syn oil viscosity ... 5w30+10w30.
My thoughts
I run 5W-30 and 1qrt of 10w-40 during winter. And 10W-30 + 2qrts 10W-40 during summer. Makes the engine much quieter. (Ohio)
This issue is caused by the 4 letters on the front and rear of the car. F - O - R - D
Check out "Ford Boss Me's Video on Flood Control Start Up......
Thanks Kenneth. I saw his video before we started down this road and passed it on to the owner. It's certainly a work around to prevent the rattling but it's not suggested as a cure nor is it. Additionally from a practical stand point, it is a frustrating and slow way to have to start your cold truck each time. We had hoped this treatment would be a cure but it was not. Thanks for watching.
Timing chain and adjusters.
SCOTTY APPROVED
Possibility cleaning successful, .... but the clattering is a mechanical issue, not sludge accumulation !?
505 product did as advertised !
The fuel cleaner any good compared to Techron?
are we just supposed to ignore the Wheel Of Fortune wheel in the background?
Hmmm. I hadn't noticed the similarity.
You're using the wrong product. Dump a can of Liqui Moly in and it will quiet the engine. I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.5L Pentastar engine and it started to have the Pentastar tick. I put a can of the Liqui Moly in and went for a ride. ZERO ticking noise on the next cold startup. When I change my oil, I put 5.5 qts of oil in and 1 can of Liqui Moly and have not heard the tick in over 10,000 miles. Eventually, it will probably need new rockers installed, but not until the tick comes back.
Dit product kan je niet kopen in Nederland!
Its too bad that when parts wear out you cant fix them with a cleaner. What this world coming too? Lets try a valve job next.
Chemical cleaners don't fix issues with the actual internal components 😊
Speak louder!
Ford turbo 6’s are horrible.
Try Braggs apple cider vinegar. It works on everything. Lol
Sounds like a typical shit Ford. Not CRO505's fault
Your engine is obviouly wearing out..........
Snake Oil
Feel like this could've been an email.
Tell them to get rid of that hunk of crap Ford, problem solved.
Ford 🚗 quality SUCKS. Period.
Full Stop. ✋
Even Scotty makes mistakes
Blasphemy!
Its not a mistake on Scottys part, he never said it would fix a engine that has mechanical problems.
Dodge is absolutely junk to!!