@@damasek219 Good grief, it was a joke. The joke was that calling it a bastard sword would mean there are more than one sword we call that. Like sidesword. Or rapier. Or claymore. FFS.
@@johnstuartkeller5244 Yeah, that is pretty weird; a buckler would be pretty practical for a Rogue. At least Pathfinder 2E took the approach of just not having shield proficiencies and letting everyone use them.
@@InSanic13 If you are looking for an RPG-system with a more simulative (still more movie than pure realism) approach to combat, you might want to take a look at TDE / DSA but not the 5th ed more like 3rd-4th. The active parade is there as well as rules for some advanced techniques and it tweaks really easy...
"The use of swords in unarmed single combat massively increased." That's quite impressive! I'd win way more unarmed combats if I were properly armed with a sword.
Tip for anyone who gets loose grips or poor fits on cheaper swords. "Sugru" It's a silicone putty (do not think of weak silicone calk, this is MUCH firmer when cured) , pack the void with the putty using some toothpicks or other applicator, when it cures after 24 hours it turns into a strong silicone rubber. It is very firm when cured, like the rubber on a car tire, (firm enough it will hold a loose guard firmly and will not move or rattle) holds metal well enough and *absorbs impact* and is not brittle. It has worked extremely well in my experience. *Sugru is far superior to epoxy in my experience, epoxy is too brittle and does not withstand impact well.* Epoxy has a strong bond strength in pure psi but is terrible in situations that have impact force. Another tip: If you can, clean the area with alcohol you intend to put the putty in, using alcohol prep pads found in first aid kits work well, this will ensure the surface of the metal is clear of oils and will provide a strong bond.
@@farkasmactavish Leather isn't going to work well for a grip, it can work ok though for a guard in a pinch, but still isn't going to hold up to robust use or test cutting. A grip needs to be solid and withstand allot of shock and vibration. A good example of that is some of the Chinese Jian that come out of Longquan China. Some of these are actually excellent for the price, they are carbon steel, hand forged blades with a robust tang that is threaded to a end cap. However these tend to thread loose easily, the handle wraps are poor and some of the fitment isn't great causing rattles or slight movement. So what I did was tore off the cheap polyester wrapped cord, unthreaded the tang, filled in voids with sugru that hardened to rubber, reattached the handle and applied thread locker blue to the threads so it won't come lose from use, then rewarp the handle with dyed leather cord purchased from eBay. Now I have a very nice cutting sword I have test cut numerous times with and it's rock solid and cuts as well as some of my much much more expensive swords, these actually do come with very nice single bevel diamond cross section double edged blades.
@ tachi can be sooooo much cooler looking. Viking swords are also pretty. Look up Patrick Barta of templ .net His swords are recreations but droooooooool.
I did a review of this sword on the SBG forums. I'm glad Matt echoed my thoughts about the leather wrap on the ricasso. I took it off on mine almost immediately after reviewing the sword, and I think it looks far better. I haven't had any problems with the fit of the guard to the blade - hopefully Matt's version was a bad QA issue rather than standard.
@@bmxriderforlife1234 This is probably something you'd have to answer for yourself. Is saving a bit of money and needing to do some DIY on the sharpness and maybe fixing the guard worth it to you? Or would you rather save a bit more and get a somewhat higher quality piece?
I completely disassembled the blunt version of this sword for HEMA and smithed new furniture for it last year. The original hilt's tang slot is too wide as you saw. The (wood) handle's tang hole was also too wide in both axis and couples slightly into the bottom of the hilt. They fill the whole thing with epoxy to close the empty space. The pommel is cast and very hard...can't retap the threads. The initial tapped threads were nearly stripped. Didn't think to check if it was stainless. You only need minimum 1.5x the diameter of the bolt into the thickness of material for good thread engagement (this tang is m6x1 thread...most of the china/india swords are). Anything threaded further than 1.5x is peace of mind because if that threaded tang is going to tear it'll be at the pommel/handle joint regardless of how far you screw it on.
you never fail to deliver the enthusiasm and quality that I spect from your videos, thanks for making this content for free matt, for some of us who doesn't have any near hema club it is priceless. not to even mention how boring this quarantine can get, lucky for me with your channel I can still learn about swords, history and other good stuff. greetings from south america and keep up with the videos!
I live in the middle of nowhere in Australia. I must be at least 250km away from the nearest person who knows what an arming sword is lol Matt’s channel is mighty helpful
@@beardedbjorn5520 I saw once a super cool medieval festival in australia, I would say they are a lot more hema stuff going on there compared to south america, but when your country is continental size, well... jjajaja it gets very far like you said. greetings bro
@@bensul9979 yeah it was probably the Abbey Mediaeval festival that Shad has gone to a couple of times. Most of the things I've seen around here are usually LARP related. But you're probably right lol
Really interesting. I had the assumption that "rapier=Civilian" and "side sword=Military" but I'm learning there's a lot of overlap with these swords being used for both dueling and battlefield sidearms.
Fantastic review. This is how they should allbe done. Considering the price point, I might be willing to grab one just to fix the guard with a jb welded shim and perfect the sharpness. Pomel is a harder fix, so I won't do many pommel strikes with it. Thanks Matt, fantastic video!
I agree. For the price it's hard to get a sword that handles well. Considering the shortcomings are things I can easily correct, I wouldn't be put off buying this one.
Indeed, I'm a picky person when it comes to handling. When these go back into supply I'm gonna see about it. I don't have a good sidesword or rapier at all, and I'd love to learn on one like this. I love the slender blade geometry of this one.
Awesome review, as usual. When I bought this sidesword last year, I immediately noticed how atrocious the leather is and replaced it with some large-grained, grippy veg tan leather that I tanned myself. Having done so, I can tell you that the handle is indeed wood, and the reason the ricasso is covered is because it's unfinished and extremely rough ground. With a little love and customization, though, this is one of my favorite swords in my collection, especially given the price point. Cheers!
You know when your "Binding and winding"... and every day thing. Love the energy and the feelings i get every time I watch your videos. It makes me feel like I am going to step out onto a battle field or go on about an adventure!
Whatever you call it that's pretty much my favourite style of straight bladed sword. I love the slimmer blade shape and the look of the "extra bits" (so much potential for fancy decoration there), but without a full basket hilt or knuckle bow. It still looks like a "classic" sword, you know? Very stylish overall.
Is say it's a toss up between side swords and arming swords. Side swords look a little more refined and stylish, but arming sword have such a classic, knightly look.
Does French have a specific term for war sword or great sword? Cause that'd be related to this slightly I think. Side sword probably referred to things you could use as self defense. War swords probably big long swords and great swords. I know how Saber are classified in French is weird.
@@bmxriderforlife1234 For warsword we would just call it "une épée" litteraly "a sword". For great swords we would call it generaly "épées à deux mains" "two handed sword" to regroup big swords that you use with two hands. Of he realy wants to be more precise to make the differences between bastard swords and great swords he call the latters "Espadons". He can also call some great swords attached at the saddle and that they used unmounted "Brad d'Arçon." And like I said we would just call a sidesword a rapier; in fact you could said that we call rapier every sword with a complexe hilt and relatively narrow blade a rapier.
Well I have had my eye on this one for a while and am pleased to no end that you put this review up. Think I will wait to see if the manufacturer takes your advice and fixes the issues you bring up. If they do and let you know I'm sure you will pass it on to you faithful fans.
I feel like he's done something, perhaps as part of another video. I only remember because I remember making a comment about how much Cat Easton was a fan of the cat gutter.
I completely agree and would love a detailed breakdown of the kaltzbalger. However unless I am misremembering I believe Matt did talk about it some in a older video where he was outside in a park or something answering questions. The biggest issue is, not a ton is actually known about them and there is just allot of speculation, like why it was often worn with no scabbard, or often kaltzbalger had no point at all and were completely rounded at the tip. Still it's a very interesting sword that I would like to know more about.
Matt Easton. You are a great expert about swords. A great trained fencing fighter. You honor your country. And the British Empire. Are there much like you ? I surrender. Hope this time changes. Warrior.
I have tested the blunt version with rolled tip and it’s a beast. Seeing your review makes me think the guard was made for the blunt version which seems to be thicker in the blade. I have blocked heavy blows with the blunt and no problems with guard getting loose. The blunt has a twisted wire wrap handle and extra support in the full loop finger rings. The sharp looks like it may collapse into the finger. The blunt has little posts that connect the S guard with the finger ring. Your finger does not touch the blade, it touches the inside posts of the finger ring. The sharp does not have the extra posts. The pommel is also jammed on the blunt version and I suspect the tang was not made fully round so when it was threaded it was left with two flats that collected shavings as it was screwed on that filled the flats and jammed it. If you remove it you will strip every thread in the pommel. It’s also a pommel that can really dent the users wrist. Hey Matt you forgot to thrust. It’s a cut/thrust thrust sword you need to thrust those logs and then your grip analysis will be completed. And try putting your thumb straight up on the thumb guard, it’s sweet! Cheers 🍻
Great review! I have two Kingston Arms swords, a Type XIV and a Type XVII, both are very good. I was looking at this sword, but I think I’ll stay away until they get it right.
I like it. The one I own has been a gem. I picked it up from KoA and the blade cut really nicely through tatami, I had not sharpened it yet, and I've had no fit and finish issues outside of the ugly leather on the ricasso. Maybe I just got a gem. Still i like seeing these kinds of reviews because it does show that not all of them are perfect. Keep up the amazing work Matt. I can't wait for the next review.
Hi, Mat, I had the older version for more than 10 years and I am glad for this review because I see CAS fixed some of its older issues. My sword was about 10-15 cm shorter and more flexible to the point that cutting harder targets was very ineffective. The blade was too blunt as well, otherwise it was straight, had nice tapering and no signs from production process. The hilt and the pommel were mirror finish and as nice as yours. The grip was plastic wrapped in wire which not only looked MUCH better than the leather but was also more comfortable. I planned to change it with a wooden core but never had the time. The leather condom on the ricasso was there as well but I removed it immediately and almost at the same time regretted it. The ricasso is very rough on the edges and could easily create a wound even with gloves. I had to disassemble the sword and round it. It was not glued, neither was the cross. The thread went around 1-1.5 cm into the pommel and after 10 years of practice and disassembling I have never had any issue with it. It didn't get lose or had any rattle. The cross was also tighter and didn't move around. The biggest issue was the short and over flexible blade. Once I got my hands on the 1845 French infantry sabre I simply stopped using it and sold it a few months later. The threaded pommel, the cross and the handle stood well my abuse and I can't complain about the blade temper and hardness as well. It is a nice sword but it requires some major DIY fixes.
Thanks for this video! I have bought this sword around one week ago. Because I already have seen this video before to go and buy the sword, I knew problems which I may meet and was ready for it. It all very easy could be fixed. In the gap between blade and hand guard I pressed few pieces of the cooper (it is very Japanese style how to make tsuba fit to the blade if they not native to each other) and I made a new handle of good and tough wood according actual blade. After all this fixing works this sidesword is pretty good and strong enough for a cutting and thrusting ))) For the price what it sales and 10 USD ( cost of wood and leather cord) it is worth this money
Cheap n dirty fix for loose fittings: there will often be a gap between the grip and the pommel or guard, get some fishing line in there and wrap it tightly around the tang then seal it up with some epoxy
15:15 For those heathens disinterested in an absolute opus of Context. One thing I will say about Hanwei’s Fiberglass (it seems) scabbards, on my Rhinelander I try to avoid it because it appears like it leaves new scratches each time. Does that rate on hardened steel? Now, this isn’t a huge deal with the inherent finish of the sword, but I don’t know what it means for edge maintenance & it seems noticeable whenever you wobble on the draw, so I think it’s worth knowing about if anyone thinks about touching up their sword or keeping a fine edge on it.
HI Matt thanks for the great review of the side sword. when I saw problem with the loose hand guard, I thought of a possible solution. My Father in law is a retired monmental stone mason and he used a corking affect with led on marble head stones. He showed me old head stones around the cemetry where the marble had warn away and so the lettering looked like it was raise but they remained intack. to your knowledge has a similar technique ever been use in sword manufacturing
Really great review. Love listening to an expert on these things. Thanks so much. I will probably buy this sword if i can't get an antique 19thC blade at around the same price as I want something cheap(ish) to play with that has the balance of a sword. However I will I will go into buying with an understanding of what needs fixing the side sword. Love your work.
So if understand you right: Fencing evolved from dueling culture. And the sword types chosen were those best for unarmored vs unarmored duels. Now I get it.
Late reply: it's also pretty obvious that modern fencing derived *specifically* from when duels to the death were prohibited and also that someone could be trialed by seriously hurting someone else, so they started being 'at the first blood' and the dueling swords developed for being very light and fast so they could produce a wound as fast as possible, instead of being lethal or effective at wounding. That's the 'dueling culture' that developed into modern fencing.
18:50 Wait what? I always thought that fullers going into the hilt of medieval swords looked ugly, leaving voids between the blade and cross-bars that were both unsightly and possibly difficult to maintain. Why would this be desirable? Does it have something to do with making the sword more easy to make since it apparently becomes acceptable to no longer do it for later swords?
Matt, I have one of these and you are correct, the threaded tang goes maybe 2-2.5cm at most into the pommel. The threaded end of the tang continues back into the handle for another 2-2.5 cm, forming a hidden "shoulder" gap filled with epoxy within the wooden handle. The handle wouldn't budge short of deconstruction due to massive amounts of epoxy as you discovered in the guard. Lovely handling sword, questionable pommel and handle construction.
And apart from a more dense comment, I’ll leave another just to say that this was a great and thorough review, with a nice meal-sized-appetizer of Almighty Context.
3:40 - Pikers & halberdiers did at least sometimes wear gauntlets. Writing in the middle of 15th century, Bertrandon de la Broquière specified hand protection for infantry with battle-axes & pikes, recommending "the boiled leather gauntlets from Germany." In his 1548 manual, Raimond de Fourquevaux assigned gauntlets to ordinary pikers but not to halberdiers. Various late-16th-century texts specify gauntlets for pikers. Sir John Smythe made a big deal out of this, claiming that Italian & Spanish pikers kept their gauntlets while the English & some other nations unwisely stopped wearing them. At least one Spanish manuals from the period supports Smythe's assertion. Smythe wanted guantlets for regular halberdiers as well as pikers.
Great review Matt! I have one and you pretty much got it spot on with my thoughts. I had to sharpen it quite a lot to get a good sharp edge on it. Sad to see the hilt loosen like that, now that it’s a bit nicer out I guess it’s time to beat mine up a little bit and see if that is going to be an issue. I don’t have high hopes after seeing that, but better to find out now and find a way to reinforce it somehow.
I once made a post on myarmoury, wondering about what type of sword people in mid 16th century that in war wore full, 3/4 or half armour, so enough armour to still include gauntlets, would use. I recently looked at all armour portraits I could find and it seems that in that context, they were wearing sideswords with a couple simple, cruciform-hilted ones thrown in the mix. I also remember one of the responses from myarmoury that written sources suggest that German 16th c. men-at-arms prefered longswords, but I don't remember if the complexity of guard on said longswords was mentioned.
That is one of the most attractive swords you've ever shown us. I don't collect or own any but that sword is beautiful. I do realize its in the eye of the beholder but darn that's sexy for no reason I can explain just, wow. Thanks for showing it to us even though that wasn't the point of your video Matt. Haha
I think he's done videos that have covered that. The short version is that improving metallurgy allows for longer thinner blades and more complex hilts.
Historical sore guards came loose all the time... Well with heavy use comes things that get loose... So they fixed it by shimming it. I do think I should have come loose so quickly but I feel like it's not the end of the world...
Watching that saber rock back and forth long after you hung it back on the nail made me think it was about to fly off the wall and attack you, Castlevania style.
So, here's a thought.... if a side sword is typically described as a cut-and-thrust sword with a complex hilt; which is in turn described as a hilt with extra bits added to it that is more complex compared to a medieval arming sword, then could a Scottish basket-hilted broadsword/claymore be categorised as a "side sword" as well? Now, as for the Kingston Arms sword itself, considering the proportions and overall quality is good but finish is being described as cheap-ish looking, could we think of it as something like a munitions-grade weapon - i.e. mass produced for the common person/soldier rather than a bespoke piece commissioned specifically for and/or by a noble?
As far as I could see in the pictures of the Scotsman, basket-hilted broadsword is worn on the side. But on the other hand, (correct me if I’m wrong) claymore is the main weapon carried in the hands or in the luggage. In modern vocabulary, one is a pistol on a belt and the other is a bazooka.
@@mariotupek9969 You're right and mistaken. Over the centuries, various Scottish swords have been referenced as a "claymore". In the late middle ages and Renaissance, it would typically be referencing a two-handed sword found in Scotland. Though in the 17th and 18th Century, the term had morphed to refer to the aforementioned basket-hilted broadsword.
Hey Matt, another great video that explains how the evolution of swords worked to better protect the users hands. If u see this comment I have always been curious about where u bought the Mary Rose Backsword that u made a video about a long while back?
I just found one of these in an old house.. it’s got a gold handle with horses on both sides of the hand guard… velvet hand grip.. I’ve legit found five different kinda swords remodeling houses over the years.
One of the ways you can fix the guard is by using shims, preferably metal. But a softer material could work fine as well, and maybe help absorb the shock of impact.
Great review I wander if they took the feedback onboard I was going to buy this,but I’m holding off I always see if you have done a review and you have waved myself some hard earned money-thank you
Matt, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Marozzo one of the first treatises to cover sword and dagger in the "pre-rapier" period? I believe that was 1536. Well, just like complex hilts probably go back further than most people realize, do you think it's possible that sword and dagger fencing also extends back into the Late Medieval period? I suppose one factor it might come down to is whether there were/are any left-hand daggers from pre-1500. Although, would it be possible for one to parry with just a regular old quillon dagger? Sorry for all the questions!😀😂
Yes, Marozzo and 1536, and yes it's therefore very likely that they were doing sword and dagger already for a decade or two by that point. I can't recall any direct evidence for it before 1500 though. The impression most authors give is that sword and dagger started to replace sword and buckler and this transition occurs in different places throughout the 1500s.
Oh, I forgot: I've also read that there is evidence of people practicing "sword and cloak" fencing in the Late Middle Ages. I'll need to look at the source again, but I believe it stated that there is documentation of it as early as the 14th century.
The guard loosening is very surprising! I have the older version, with the wire wrapped grip. The pieces all fit very well, the gap is almost nonexistent...actually, disassembly and reassembly is a bit of chore. The tang is nice and beefy, the threaded rod is too and seems to be at one piece with the blade-no evidence of welding. The pommel stays screwed on nice and tight. I’ll even admit to it smacking it hard into the cement ground at full tilt and not even getting a scratch. Nothing loosened at all. It cut a whole in a thick and hard plastic flower pot too...also an accident, I swear....it’s a fantastic sword!
The side swords are really getting my attention. I intend to buy one, but Munich Town Guard is still my favorite. The Arms and Armor replica is very expensive, but the Windlass one has the problems pointed out by Mr. Easton... This one from Kingston Arms is interesting too, but in terms of style, I still prefer Town Guard, it looks more elegant, and has a semi basket hilt (more hand protection is always interesting)
@@algomez8563 Interestingly, I have never heard of this Deltin manufacturer, I will research. As for the possibility of buying a Hanway-tinker Bastard, and taking on a different guard, I have no confidence that it would look so good, especially considering that I have no practice in customizing swords. And ordering a blacksmith's guard could end up practically at the price of a finished replica, but it's an option ...
@@Lillythu Ok second attempt. Try with Kult of Athena if you live in the American Continent. If you live in the European continent check the Deltin webpage. It you live somewere else I wouldn't know.
My very first sword was an Angus Trim blade (AT-1548, the Type XVIIIb with a ricasso) mated to a fully developed guard to form a reiterschwert (rider sword) which is essentially the longsword version of a sidesword. Funniest thing, it's also the lightest sword in my collection, despite it being the only one that has a developed hilt. The blade is quite narrow for a longsword, and that may explain why it's considerably lighter than my Albions or the A&A that I have. Given the rearward point of balance imparted by the guard, it also feels the lightest.
I have a version of this very sword that I bought about ten years ago, and the grip isn't leather, it's wire-wound. It's a rather nice pattern consisting of a braid alternating with a few straight wraps. The winding is actually a little on the harsh side, but I suppose that's a plus if your hand is bleeding or it's raining or whatever might get your hand wet.
Thank you for another amazing review! Not only do you provide a detailed summary of the pros and cons of the sword, your videos are also far more entertaining to watch than the average review video. On the topic of budget-friendly swords, have you by chance handled the Hanwei-Tinker Pearce "Early Medieval Sword"? I am curious how you think it stacks up as a type XII, especially with regards to handling and overall historical accuracy.
Matt, This comment is off topic for this video but as a long time consumer of your content I know you always have interesting perspectives on the use of weapons in pop culture contexts. Given that, I'd be very curious to hear your thoughts on how energy shields/kinetic barriers as they appear in Dune (forthcoming movie/famous scifi book) would change technique, fight tactics, etc. Apologies if you've already made content on this and I've missed it.
Could you do a review of accuracy with melee weapons? Like, how easy is it to "land a hit" using a melee weapon. All the weapons from short sword, to two-handed warhammer and everything in between.
They probably have a lot of experience making jian. So the blade itself is on point. (ha ha) It's the complex hilt (which jian do not have) that threw them off.
Me: Well, I don't have much time, so I'll have to listen to this video while I'm cooking. Surely I can learn a few things even if my attention isn't entirely focused on- Matt: *Absolutely unacceptable*
A lot of the better swordmakers out there will offer left-handed versions of these sorts of swords. Not all of them, of course, and that sucks, but a good number of them.
You should review the "professional longsword", from blades UK..... I've just received a regenyei longsword,( for comparison), the construction isn't a million miles away. Seth
Several years ago I bought 5 of these sideswords with the intention of fitting rapier blades for sport combat use. The pommels have a 6x1 metric thread which is what my rapier blades have so that was nice. However, disassembling the swords and screwing the pommels onto the new blades destroyed the threads on all 5 of them. So new pommels. Shortly after that all 5 of the grips started to break down, on mine at least they were made out of molded sawdust and glue and were very low quality. So new grips. The guards also didn't hold up well. The large side rings and quillions will bend with any sort of solid contact. These look fantastic but all the furniture is very poor quality and will not stand up to any use. Great as a wall hanger or for costume use though.
This question occurs to me on so many of your videos, so I ask it here. How important is edge sharpness for a sword thrust? I am of course referring to the edge sharpness near the point. If your thrust has ended near the ricasso I don't think sharpness matters much.
Scott, i saw you in Outlaw King lol, but in all seriousness, the hole concept of Sidesword, i started see in recently, when someone told me, " swords are not war weapons, you can use is as a last resort but, your better of with an axe or a spear, or hell a mace " and its funny, i starting run it in my mind and its true, sword became less used in war as the armor started to develop, in ancient times we used sword cuz people hardly had armor, then chain mail was created and the axe became more useful, then plate armor and the mace took the center stage lol.
Talk about skill! Literally slicing the milk bottles into 2" pieces AND with a sword that wasn't exactly super sharp! I especially enjoyed the way you took the lid off that 2nd milk bottle, very impressive. That's precision from a scarily capable swordsman. Watching these vids makes me want to rush out and buy a sword.
I got a nasty hit to my pinky last weekend from a bad block during rapier fencing. Sloppy fencing after 3 months of snow and ice and with covid closing inside fencing is my excuse. Accidentally hit my sparring partner too hard on the wrist sadly too. Great to get some fencing in though. I didn't know the finger ring was so early. I had assumed it was in the 1430s from my visits to museums. Thanks for sharing.
In my research before buy this exact sword a couple years back. Sideswords were a bit shorter and stockier than rapiers, longer and thinner than arming swords, had the triangular blade, and was often the EDC for men at the time. In firearm terms. If the rapier is a 9mm and the Arming sword a .45 ACP. Then the sidesword would be the .40 S&W
Would there be a way to stabilize the wobbly guard? Epoxy, Cauk, a heavy duty glue? Could you use a clamp and slowly deform it, or would that destroy its structural integrity?
Huh i have one of these swords. I bought it about 10 years ago. I wish i saw this review earlier. Great review. Double click on the like button. I just looked my sword is a hanwei side sword, and yes the blade is dull and i can unscrew the plamul ( dam can't spell it) but seems pretty solid. Never really used it though. One of my more expensive wall hangers. Im more into Samurai swords. Thanks for the review.
I've just had a thought. Given that complex hilts fundementally alter the balance of the sword, did sword techniques evolve to take account of the change, or did makers try and compensate by adding weight to the the blade in various ways?
Is the similarity in finger rings with side swords, and small sword, mean that the earlier sides words could be held in the same fashion? With only the tips of fingers in the rings, and thumb inline with the flat of the blade?
Perhaps complex hilt trend started when some knight practiced unarmed fencing with a wooden arming sword, and then started to use a mitten/gauntlet from his armor as hand protection during practice. Perhaps he then discovered that it gave an advantage to hold the sword more in front of him, so they started to explore the possibility of a complex hilt to emulate the hand protection of the mitten/gauntlet. Perhaps it was an invention that was bound to happen, once there were enough gauntlets around so they could be used casually for hand protection during practice.
A side sword is your backup, or for when you need a break from your main sword. Your main sword can never know about your side sword.
I'm married.
@@devilishdeed fair enough, no bastard swords for you then! ;)
I took me little bit too long to realice that this was supposed to be a joke
Surely, everyone has a collection at least or perhaps more accurately a harem..
@@blakexu4943 and its all dominated by a big German...the zweihander
It's like an arming sword and a rapier had an illegitimate child out of wedlock. Should've called it a bastard sword. That'll clear up the confusion.
Bastard sword is hand and a half sword so the name is already taken.
And yes I can understand jokes 😉
Ahaha... dare I say, “touché”?
@@damasek219 Good grief, it was a joke. The joke was that calling it a bastard sword would mean there are more than one sword we call that. Like sidesword. Or rapier. Or claymore. FFS.
@@andrewkelly6828 …did you miss their follow up comment?
My D&D game has gotten so much more realistic since I subscribed to Matt's channel.
Yes. For some time, now, I have had Thieves- I mean, Rogues have had proficiency with shields. SwashBUCKLER, WotC, SwashBUCKLER!
@@johnstuartkeller5244 Yeah, that is pretty weird; a buckler would be pretty practical for a Rogue. At least Pathfinder 2E took the approach of just not having shield proficiencies and letting everyone use them.
Have you seen the great episode Matt made about adventuring equipment? The main message appeared to be, "Get some hirelings or a donkey." :)
@@euansmith3699 Easy done. My family tree is dull of donkeys.
@@InSanic13 If you are looking for an RPG-system with a more simulative (still more movie than pure realism) approach to combat, you might want to take a look at TDE / DSA but not the 5th ed more like 3rd-4th.
The active parade is there as well as rules for some advanced techniques and it tweaks really easy...
"The use of swords in unarmed single combat massively increased."
That's quite impressive! I'd win way more unarmed combats if I were properly armed with a sword.
I think he meant to say unarmored.
I really wish Albion would get off their asses and make some side swords and rapiers. They've had a few in concept for years now.
I also!!!! I think about it all the time !!! They should do a Albion Side sword Spanish classic style !!!
I agree and I would like to see them make a kilij sword as well.
I have been waiting for years.
There's other, better makers who do sideswords and rapiers. Leave Albion to their cookie-cutter medieval designs.
I wish that too but Arms and Armor already make some top tier rapiers that I think would be akin to what Albion would make
Tip for anyone who gets loose grips or poor fits on cheaper swords. "Sugru" It's a silicone putty (do not think of weak silicone calk, this is MUCH firmer when cured) , pack the void with the putty using some toothpicks or other applicator, when it cures after 24 hours it turns into a strong silicone rubber. It is very firm when cured, like the rubber on a car tire, (firm enough it will hold a loose guard firmly and will not move or rattle) holds metal well enough and *absorbs impact* and is not brittle. It has worked extremely well in my experience. *Sugru is far superior to epoxy in my experience, epoxy is too brittle and does not withstand impact well.* Epoxy has a strong bond strength in pure psi but is terrible in situations that have impact force.
Another tip: If you can, clean the area with alcohol you intend to put the putty in, using alcohol prep pads found in first aid kits work well, this will ensure the surface of the metal is clear of oils and will provide a strong bond.
Or just stuff a strip of leather or somesuch in there.
@@farkasmactavish Leather isn't going to work well for a grip, it can work ok though for a guard in a pinch, but still isn't going to hold up to robust use or test cutting. A grip needs to be solid and withstand allot of shock and vibration.
A good example of that is some of the Chinese Jian that come out of Longquan China. Some of these are actually excellent for the price, they are carbon steel, hand forged blades with a robust tang that is threaded to a end cap. However these tend to thread loose easily, the handle wraps are poor and some of the fitment isn't great causing rattles or slight movement. So what I did was tore off the cheap polyester wrapped cord, unthreaded the tang, filled in voids with sugru that hardened to rubber, reattached the handle and applied thread locker blue to the threads so it won't come lose from use, then rewarp the handle with dyed leather cord purchased from eBay.
Now I have a very nice cutting sword I have test cut numerous times with and it's rock solid and cuts as well as some of my much much more expensive swords, these actually do come with very nice single bevel diamond cross section double edged blades.
Side swords are just so awesome looking, in my opinion they are the best looking swords out there.
That and katanas of course !
@
Of course the katanas can rip space-time! But in all seriousnessness I prefer Tachis rather than katanas
@@bretalvarez3097 Google the kenuki gata tachi. You'll like them I think.
@ tachi can be sooooo much cooler looking.
Viking swords are also pretty. Look up Patrick Barta of templ .net
His swords are recreations but droooooooool.
I did a review of this sword on the SBG forums. I'm glad Matt echoed my thoughts about the leather wrap on the ricasso. I took it off on mine almost immediately after reviewing the sword, and I think it looks far better. I haven't had any problems with the fit of the guard to the blade - hopefully Matt's version was a bad QA issue rather than standard.
Would you say it's a worthy investment as a side sword piece or better to save/drop a tad more and get a slightly higher end example?
^And if so, what would be some comparably great value/"hidden gem" sideswords to recommend
@@bmxriderforlife1234 This is probably something you'd have to answer for yourself. Is saving a bit of money and needing to do some DIY on the sharpness and maybe fixing the guard worth it to you? Or would you rather save a bit more and get a somewhat higher quality piece?
@mightylcanis well it's more like is the blade worth even doing the sharpening too.
I completely disassembled the blunt version of this sword for HEMA and smithed new furniture for it last year. The original hilt's tang slot is too wide as you saw. The (wood) handle's tang hole was also too wide in both axis and couples slightly into the bottom of the hilt. They fill the whole thing with epoxy to close the empty space. The pommel is cast and very hard...can't retap the threads. The initial tapped threads were nearly stripped. Didn't think to check if it was stainless.
You only need minimum 1.5x the diameter of the bolt into the thickness of material for good thread engagement (this tang is m6x1 thread...most of the china/india swords are). Anything threaded further than 1.5x is peace of mind because if that threaded tang is going to tear it'll be at the pommel/handle joint regardless of how far you screw it on.
you never fail to deliver the enthusiasm and quality that I spect from your videos, thanks for making this content for free matt, for some of us who doesn't have any near hema club it is priceless. not to even mention how boring this quarantine can get, lucky for me with your channel I can still learn about swords, history and other good stuff. greetings from south america and keep up with the videos!
Well said. I enthusiastically concur!
I live in the middle of nowhere in Australia. I must be at least 250km away from the nearest person who knows what an arming sword is lol Matt’s channel is mighty helpful
@@beardedbjorn5520 I saw once a super cool medieval festival in australia, I would say they are a lot more hema stuff going on there compared to south america, but when your country is continental size, well... jjajaja it gets very far like you said. greetings bro
@@bensul9979 yeah it was probably the Abbey Mediaeval festival that Shad has gone to a couple of times. Most of the things I've seen around here are usually LARP related. But you're probably right lol
Really interesting. I had the assumption that "rapier=Civilian" and "side sword=Military" but I'm learning there's a lot of overlap with these swords being used for both dueling and battlefield sidearms.
Fantastic review. This is how they should allbe done. Considering the price point, I might be willing to grab one just to fix the guard with a jb welded shim and perfect the sharpness. Pomel is a harder fix, so I won't do many pommel strikes with it.
Thanks Matt, fantastic video!
I agree. For the price it's hard to get a sword that handles well. Considering the shortcomings are things I can easily correct, I wouldn't be put off buying this one.
Indeed, I'm a picky person when it comes to handling. When these go back into supply I'm gonna see about it. I don't have a good sidesword or rapier at all, and I'd love to learn on one like this. I love the slender blade geometry of this one.
"Seen one in the flesh?"
Spoken of a sword, that could be misunderstood.
My thought exactly. he's probably now seen one in the cold steel, but still not in the flesh.
Awesome review, as usual. When I bought this sidesword last year, I immediately noticed how atrocious the leather is and replaced it with some large-grained, grippy veg tan leather that I tanned myself. Having done so, I can tell you that the handle is indeed wood, and the reason the ricasso is covered is because it's unfinished and extremely rough ground. With a little love and customization, though, this is one of my favorite swords in my collection, especially given the price point. Cheers!
You know when your "Binding and winding"... and every day thing. Love the energy and the feelings i get every time I watch your videos. It makes me feel like I am going to step out onto a battle field or go on about an adventure!
Whatever you call it that's pretty much my favourite style of straight bladed sword. I love the slimmer blade shape and the look of the "extra bits" (so much potential for fancy decoration there), but without a full basket hilt or knuckle bow. It still looks like a "classic" sword, you know? Very stylish overall.
For some reason I really like the way side swords look more than any other type of sword.
Is say it's a toss up between side swords and arming swords. Side swords look a little more refined and stylish, but arming sword have such a classic, knightly look.
This is interesting, in french we don't have any equivalent for the word "sidesword". We would call this sword a rapier or simply a sword.
Does French have a specific term for war sword or great sword? Cause that'd be related to this slightly I think.
Side sword probably referred to things you could use as self defense. War swords probably big long swords and great swords.
I know how Saber are classified in French is weird.
@@bmxriderforlife1234 For warsword we would just call it "une épée" litteraly "a sword". For great swords we would call it generaly "épées à deux mains" "two handed sword" to regroup big swords that you use with two hands. Of he realy wants to be more precise to make the differences between bastard swords and great swords he call the latters "Espadons". He can also call some great swords attached at the saddle and that they used unmounted "Brad d'Arçon."
And like I said we would just call a sidesword a rapier; in fact you could said that we call rapier every sword with a complexe hilt and relatively narrow blade a rapier.
Well I have had my eye on this one for a while and am pleased to no end that you put this review up. Think I will wait to see if the manufacturer takes your advice and fixes the issues you bring up. If they do and let you know I'm sure you will pass it on to you faithful fans.
Yes otherwise I definitely would definitely not buy this sword
I was wondering if the loose pommel could be fixed with a small, wooden shim between the ricasso & pommel.
I enjoy these historical breakdowns. Could you do one on the kaltzbalger.
I feel like he's done something, perhaps as part of another video. I only remember because I remember making a comment about how much Cat Easton was a fan of the cat gutter.
I completely agree and would love a detailed breakdown of the kaltzbalger. However unless I am misremembering I believe Matt did talk about it some in a older video where he was outside in a park or something answering questions. The biggest issue is, not a ton is actually known about them and there is just allot of speculation, like why it was often worn with no scabbard, or often kaltzbalger had no point at all and were completely rounded at the tip. Still it's a very interesting sword that I would like to know more about.
Matt Easton. You are a great expert about swords. A great trained fencing fighter.
You honor your country.
And the British Empire.
Are there much like you ?
I surrender.
Hope this time changes.
Warrior.
In my opinion the most beautiful sword type.
Love the longer review style, please keep that format.
This vid is Matt at his best! Pushing his confident rapid fire lesson witout spending so much time with all the caveats and disclaimers.
Someone needs to make a "Matt Easton out of *CONTEXT* for X minutes" video.
Edit: 33:01
Lmfao that gave me a good laugh, thanks for the time stamp 😂
loool
2:07 is a really good one too.
It'll only have clips of him saying "context"
I cried 🤣🤣🤣
I have tested the blunt version with rolled tip and it’s a beast.
Seeing your review makes me think the guard was made for the blunt version which seems to be thicker in the blade.
I have blocked heavy blows with the blunt and no problems with guard getting loose. The blunt has a twisted wire wrap handle and extra support in the full loop finger rings. The sharp looks like it may collapse into the finger. The blunt has little posts that connect the S guard with the finger ring. Your finger does not touch the blade, it touches the inside posts of the finger ring. The sharp does not have the extra posts.
The pommel is also jammed on the blunt version and I suspect the tang was not made fully round so when it was threaded it was left with two flats that collected shavings as it was screwed on that filled the flats and jammed it. If you remove it you will strip every thread in the pommel. It’s also a pommel that can really dent the users wrist.
Hey Matt you forgot to thrust.
It’s a cut/thrust thrust sword you need to thrust those logs and then your grip analysis will be completed. And try putting your thumb straight up on the thumb guard, it’s sweet!
Cheers 🍻
Great review! I have two Kingston Arms swords, a Type XIV and a Type XVII, both are very good. I was looking at this sword, but I think I’ll stay away until they get it right.
Skip to 15:14 if you're here for the sword review alone
I like it. The one I own has been a gem. I picked it up from KoA and the blade cut really nicely through tatami, I had not sharpened it yet, and I've had no fit and finish issues outside of the ugly leather on the ricasso. Maybe I just got a gem. Still i like seeing these kinds of reviews because it does show that not all of them are perfect. Keep up the amazing work Matt. I can't wait for the next review.
I have been considering this sword and very much appreciate this review. Thanks Matt. Cheers!
Hi, Mat, I had the older version for more than 10 years and I am glad for this review because I see CAS fixed some of its older issues. My sword was about 10-15 cm shorter and more flexible to the point that cutting harder targets was very ineffective. The blade was too blunt as well, otherwise it was straight, had nice tapering and no signs from production process. The hilt and the pommel were mirror finish and as nice as yours. The grip was plastic wrapped in wire which not only looked MUCH better than the leather but was also more comfortable. I planned to change it with a wooden core but never had the time.
The leather condom on the ricasso was there as well but I removed it immediately and almost at the same time regretted it. The ricasso is very rough on the edges and could easily create a wound even with gloves. I had to disassemble the sword and round it. It was not glued, neither was the cross. The thread went around 1-1.5 cm into the pommel and after 10 years of practice and disassembling I have never had any issue with it. It didn't get lose or had any rattle. The cross was also tighter and didn't move around.
The biggest issue was the short and over flexible blade. Once I got my hands on the 1845 French infantry sabre I simply stopped using it and sold it a few months later. The threaded pommel, the cross and the handle stood well my abuse and I can't complain about the blade temper and hardness as well. It is a nice sword but it requires some major DIY fixes.
Thanks for this video!
I have bought this sword around one week ago.
Because I already have seen this video before to go and buy the sword, I knew problems which I may meet and was ready for it. It all very easy could be fixed. In the gap between blade and hand guard I pressed few pieces of the cooper (it is very Japanese style how to make tsuba fit to the blade if they not native to each other) and I made a new handle of good and tough wood according actual blade.
After all this fixing works this sidesword is pretty good and strong enough for a cutting and thrusting ))) For the price what it sales and 10 USD ( cost of wood and leather cord) it is worth this money
Cheap n dirty fix for loose fittings: there will often be a gap between the grip and the pommel or guard, get some fishing line in there and wrap it tightly around the tang then seal it up with some epoxy
If you have studied your Agrippa, thrust optimization in use predates design
Besides the excellent information you provide, Matt, I love your obvious enthusiasm for the topic at hand. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
15:15 For those heathens disinterested in an absolute opus of Context.
One thing I will say about Hanwei’s Fiberglass (it seems) scabbards, on my Rhinelander I try to avoid it because it appears like it leaves new scratches each time. Does that rate on hardened steel?
Now, this isn’t a huge deal with the inherent finish of the sword, but I don’t know what it means for edge maintenance & it seems noticeable whenever you wobble on the draw, so I think it’s worth knowing about if anyone thinks about touching up their sword or keeping a fine edge on it.
40min Video of Matt talking sideswords... oh boi :) Thank you for the video! ❤️
HI Matt thanks for the great review of the side sword. when I saw problem with the loose hand guard, I thought of a possible solution. My Father in law is a retired monmental stone mason and he used a corking affect with led on marble head stones. He showed me old head stones around the cemetry where the marble had warn away and so the lettering looked like it was raise but they remained intack. to your knowledge has a similar technique ever been use in sword manufacturing
I love this channel. Matt is very knowledgeable
I had to stop to comment at 5:50, you are 100% right about that!
Really great review. Love listening to an expert on these things. Thanks so much. I will probably buy this sword if i can't get an antique 19thC blade at around the same price as I want something cheap(ish) to play with that has the balance of a sword. However I will I will go into buying with an understanding of what needs fixing the side sword. Love your work.
So if understand you right: Fencing evolved from dueling culture. And the sword types chosen were those best for unarmored vs unarmored duels. Now I get it.
Late reply: it's also pretty obvious that modern fencing derived *specifically* from when duels to the death were prohibited and also that someone could be trialed by seriously hurting someone else, so they started being 'at the first blood' and the dueling swords developed for being very light and fast so they could produce a wound as fast as possible, instead of being lethal or effective at wounding.
That's the 'dueling culture' that developed into modern fencing.
@@didack1419 very interesting how culture and morals influenced sword design and techniques to be less lethal.
18:50 Wait what? I always thought that fullers going into the hilt of medieval swords looked ugly, leaving voids between the blade and cross-bars that were both unsightly and possibly difficult to maintain. Why would this be desirable? Does it have something to do with making the sword more easy to make since it apparently becomes acceptable to no longer do it for later swords?
Thank you for the review! I was looking at this or the Windlass Munich. I think I will go with the Windlass. Thanks again!
Seeing Matt cut those jugs so perfectly with a dull sword was magical.
Matt, I have one of these and you are correct, the threaded tang goes maybe 2-2.5cm at most into the pommel. The threaded end of the tang continues back into the handle for another 2-2.5 cm, forming a hidden "shoulder" gap filled with epoxy within the wooden handle. The handle wouldn't budge short of deconstruction due to massive amounts of epoxy as you discovered in the guard. Lovely handling sword, questionable pommel and handle construction.
I bought my one a month ago. I love my one.
Great video. Many thanks for the review, Matt!
And apart from a more dense comment, I’ll leave another just to say that this was a great and thorough review, with a nice meal-sized-appetizer of Almighty Context.
3:40 - Pikers & halberdiers did at least sometimes wear gauntlets. Writing in the middle of 15th century, Bertrandon de la Broquière specified hand protection for infantry with battle-axes & pikes, recommending "the boiled leather gauntlets from Germany."
In his 1548 manual, Raimond de Fourquevaux assigned gauntlets to ordinary pikers but not to halberdiers.
Various late-16th-century texts specify gauntlets for pikers. Sir John Smythe made a big deal out of this, claiming that Italian & Spanish pikers kept their gauntlets while the English & some other nations unwisely stopped wearing them. At least one Spanish manuals from the period supports Smythe's assertion. Smythe wanted guantlets for regular halberdiers as well as pikers.
Great review Matt! I have one and you pretty much got it spot on with my thoughts. I had to sharpen it quite a lot to get a good sharp edge on it. Sad to see the hilt loosen like that, now that it’s a bit nicer out I guess it’s time to beat mine up a little bit and see if that is going to be an issue. I don’t have high hopes after seeing that, but better to find out now and find a way to reinforce it somehow.
I once made a post on myarmoury, wondering about what type of sword people in mid 16th century that in war wore full, 3/4 or half armour, so enough armour to still include gauntlets, would use. I recently looked at all armour portraits I could find and it seems that in that context, they were wearing sideswords with a couple simple, cruciform-hilted ones thrown in the mix. I also remember one of the responses from myarmoury that written sources suggest that German 16th c. men-at-arms prefered longswords, but I don't remember if the complexity of guard on said longswords was mentioned.
That is one of the most attractive swords you've ever shown us. I don't collect or own any but that sword is beautiful. I do realize its in the eye of the beholder but darn that's sexy for no reason I can explain just, wow. Thanks for showing it to us even though that wasn't the point of your video Matt. Haha
Could we get any insights into how refining metallurgy has effected the evolution of weaponry over the centuries?
I think he's done videos that have covered that. The short version is that improving metallurgy allows for longer thinner blades and more complex hilts.
Historical sore guards came loose all the time... Well with heavy use comes things that get loose... So they fixed it by shimming it. I do think I should have come loose so quickly but I feel like it's not the end of the world...
Can we get a video on the difference between fencing schools in Italy and fencing guilds in Germany that you mentioned in passing?
I love how much time you put into this review.
I tend to just use sidesword to refer to a late medieval/early modern cut and thrust sword. It was just the next iteration of the arming sword.
Watching that saber rock back and forth long after you hung it back on the nail made me think it was about to fly off the wall and attack you, Castlevania style.
Matt, do a video on how to sharpen a sword properly!
Came here for clarification on swords to use while playing Dungeons & Dragons. Left with a wonderful education in European sword lore.
So, here's a thought.... if a side sword is typically described as a cut-and-thrust sword with a complex hilt; which is in turn described as a hilt with extra bits added to it that is more complex compared to a medieval arming sword, then could a Scottish basket-hilted broadsword/claymore be categorised as a "side sword" as well?
Now, as for the Kingston Arms sword itself, considering the proportions and overall quality is good but finish is being described as cheap-ish looking, could we think of it as something like a munitions-grade weapon - i.e. mass produced for the common person/soldier rather than a bespoke piece commissioned specifically for and/or by a noble?
Damn, Kingston also make swords in addition to RAM card huh.
PS.This is a joke.
As far as I could see in the pictures of the Scotsman, basket-hilted broadsword is worn on the side. But on the other hand, (correct me if I’m wrong) claymore is the main weapon carried in the hands or in the luggage. In modern vocabulary, one is a pistol on a belt and the other is a bazooka.
@@mariotupek9969 You're right and mistaken. Over the centuries, various Scottish swords have been referenced as a "claymore". In the late middle ages and Renaissance, it would typically be referencing a two-handed sword found in Scotland. Though in the 17th and 18th Century, the term had morphed to refer to the aforementioned basket-hilted broadsword.
@@evilwelshman Thanks for the new knowledge, I knew I didn’t know enough about it.
@@mariotupek9969 Happy to pass on the knowledge. Used to get confused between the two myself too!
So in the early days of its introduction, most people weren’t familiar with a good, strong, finger-ring?
Thankfully, nowadays we all finger our swords
Hey Matt, another great video that explains how the evolution of swords worked to better protect the users hands. If u see this comment I have always been curious about where u bought the Mary Rose Backsword that u made a video about a long while back?
Hi, that's Lucy's sword and it is from Armour Class in Scotland. They make very good basket hilts.
@@scholagladiatoria Thanks for the response, I'll visit them to my list!
I just found one of these in an old house.. it’s got a gold handle with horses on both sides of the hand guard… velvet hand grip.. I’ve legit found five different kinda swords remodeling houses over the years.
26:15
Finally I understand why the kings on the playing cards are depicted as stabbing their own head...been wondering since childhood
One of the ways you can fix the guard is by using shims, preferably metal. But a softer material could work fine as well, and maybe help absorb the shock of impact.
King of reminds me of the term "Long sword" and how that can mean all sorts of different things.
Great review
I wander if they took the feedback onboard
I was going to buy this,but I’m holding off
I always see if you have done a review and you have waved myself some hard earned money-thank you
Matt, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Marozzo one of the first treatises to cover sword and dagger in the "pre-rapier" period? I believe that was 1536. Well, just like complex hilts probably go back further than most people realize, do you think it's possible that sword and dagger fencing also extends back into the Late Medieval period? I suppose one factor it might come down to is whether there were/are any left-hand daggers from pre-1500. Although, would it be possible for one to parry with just a regular old quillon dagger? Sorry for all the questions!😀😂
Yes, Marozzo and 1536, and yes it's therefore very likely that they were doing sword and dagger already for a decade or two by that point. I can't recall any direct evidence for it before 1500 though. The impression most authors give is that sword and dagger started to replace sword and buckler and this transition occurs in different places throughout the 1500s.
@@scholagladiatoria , Thank you for the response, I hadn't thought about it from the buckler replacement angle!
I’ve hoped to see something like that for a long time.
@@veglord_the_profane , I might be missing context, but what exactly have you hoped to see?😀😂
Oh, I forgot: I've also read that there is evidence of people practicing "sword and cloak" fencing in the Late Middle Ages. I'll need to look at the source again, but I believe it stated that there is documentation of it as early as the 14th century.
The guard loosening is very surprising! I have the older version, with the wire wrapped grip. The pieces all fit very well, the gap is almost nonexistent...actually, disassembly and reassembly is a bit of chore. The tang is nice and beefy, the threaded rod is too and seems to be at one piece with the blade-no evidence of welding. The pommel stays screwed on nice and tight. I’ll even admit to it smacking it hard into the cement ground at full tilt and not even getting a scratch. Nothing loosened at all. It cut a whole in a thick and hard plastic flower pot too...also an accident, I swear....it’s a fantastic sword!
I just ordered this though I confess I would’ve really liked that wired wrapped version
Well to be honest, if I order a sword and it comes like this and I cut once and the guard starts moving, I try to send it back and/or ask for repairs.
Could the guard be stabilized by wedge-shaped shims driven down on either side of the blade?
The side swords are really getting my attention. I intend to buy one, but Munich Town Guard is still my favorite. The Arms and Armor replica is very expensive, but the Windlass one has the problems pointed out by Mr. Easton...
This one from Kingston Arms is interesting too, but in terms of style, I still prefer Town Guard, it looks more elegant, and has a semi basket hilt (more hand protection is always interesting)
You can take a look to Deltin swords they are still not low cost but around 200 to 300 US$ less than Arms & Armor.
Also you could try buying a guard from lets say Darkwood armory or from a smith and acomodate a Hanwei-Tinker bastard sword blade.
@@algomez8563 Interestingly, I have never heard of this Deltin manufacturer, I will research.
As for the possibility of buying a Hanway-tinker Bastard, and taking on a different guard, I have no confidence that it would look so good, especially considering that I have no practice in customizing swords. And ordering a blacksmith's guard could end up practically at the price of a finished replica, but it's an option ...
@@Lillythu Uhh my recomendation was deleted. Because the words European American and don't know?
@@Lillythu Ok second attempt. Try with Kult of Athena if you live in the American Continent.
If you live in the European continent check the Deltin webpage. It you live somewere else I wouldn't know.
Really nice video Matt, thanks. The grip on the sidesword looks a bit long, particularly with that pommel.
My very first sword was an Angus Trim blade (AT-1548, the Type XVIIIb with a ricasso) mated to a fully developed guard to form a reiterschwert (rider sword) which is essentially the longsword version of a sidesword.
Funniest thing, it's also the lightest sword in my collection, despite it being the only one that has a developed hilt. The blade is quite narrow for a longsword, and that may explain why it's considerably lighter than my Albions or the A&A that I have. Given the rearward point of balance imparted by the guard, it also feels the lightest.
I have a version of this very sword that I bought about ten years ago, and the grip isn't leather, it's wire-wound. It's a rather nice pattern consisting of a braid alternating with a few straight wraps. The winding is actually a little on the harsh side, but I suppose that's a plus if your hand is bleeding or it's raining or whatever might get your hand wet.
Thank you for another amazing review! Not only do you provide a detailed summary of the pros and cons of the sword, your videos are also far more entertaining to watch than the average review video. On the topic of budget-friendly swords, have you by chance handled the Hanwei-Tinker Pearce "Early Medieval Sword"? I am curious how you think it stacks up as a type XII, especially with regards to handling and overall historical accuracy.
Thanks. And no I haven't experienced the early medieval sword yet.
Matt,
This comment is off topic for this video but as a long time consumer of your content I know you always have interesting perspectives on the use of weapons in pop culture contexts. Given that, I'd be very curious to hear your thoughts on how energy shields/kinetic barriers as they appear in Dune (forthcoming movie/famous scifi book) would change technique, fight tactics, etc. Apologies if you've already made content on this and I've missed it.
Could you do a review of accuracy with melee weapons?
Like, how easy is it to "land a hit" using a melee weapon.
All the weapons from short sword, to two-handed warhammer and everything in between.
I really wish ambidextrous/lefty complex hilts were easier to find.
Should've thought of that before you were born a lefty
They probably have a lot of experience making jian. So the blade itself is on point. (ha ha) It's the complex hilt (which jian do not have) that threw them off.
I like the older version that had a rough leather stripped spiral grip, versus the smooth leather grip they put on it now.
Me: Well, I don't have much time, so I'll have to listen to this video while I'm cooking. Surely I can learn a few things even if my attention isn't entirely focused on-
Matt: *Absolutely unacceptable*
as a left hander these complex hand guards make me sad
I completely agree.
Some of them are symmetrical enough to accommodate either hand.
@@NevisYsbryd then they are clearly not the ones i'm talking about
I’m a left hander so I understand. Could you imagine also having six fingers on ones hand. Only a Spanish swordmaker can build them
A lot of the better swordmakers out there will offer left-handed versions of these sorts of swords.
Not all of them, of course, and that sucks, but a good number of them.
You should review the "professional longsword", from blades UK..... I've just received a regenyei longsword,( for comparison), the construction isn't a million miles away.
Seth
Several years ago I bought 5 of these sideswords with the intention of fitting rapier blades for sport combat use. The pommels have a 6x1 metric thread which is what my rapier blades have so that was nice. However, disassembling the swords and screwing the pommels onto the new blades destroyed the threads on all 5 of them. So new pommels. Shortly after that all 5 of the grips started to break down, on mine at least they were made out of molded sawdust and glue and were very low quality. So new grips. The guards also didn't hold up well. The large side rings and quillions will bend with any sort of solid contact.
These look fantastic but all the furniture is very poor quality and will not stand up to any use. Great as a wall hanger or for costume use though.
Just put an order for this and withdrew after Matt's video AND your comment! Mille grazie!
I hope CAS Iberia listens to you and fixes the issues. If they do I would buy one.
This question occurs to me on so many of your videos, so I ask it here.
How important is edge sharpness for a sword thrust? I am of course referring to the edge sharpness near the point. If your thrust has ended near the ricasso I don't think sharpness matters much.
Scott, i saw you in Outlaw King lol, but in all seriousness, the hole concept of Sidesword, i started see in recently, when someone told me, " swords are not war weapons, you can use is as a last resort but, your better of with an axe or a spear, or hell a mace " and its funny, i starting run it in my mind and its true, sword became less used in war as the armor started to develop, in ancient times we used sword cuz people hardly had armor, then chain mail was created and the axe became more useful, then plate armor and the mace took the center stage lol.
Talk about skill! Literally slicing the milk bottles into 2" pieces AND with a sword that wasn't exactly super sharp! I especially enjoyed the way you took the lid off that 2nd milk bottle, very impressive. That's precision from a scarily capable swordsman. Watching these vids makes me want to rush out and buy a sword.
"Bottles don't fight back".
I got a nasty hit to my pinky last weekend from a bad block during rapier fencing. Sloppy fencing after 3 months of snow and ice and with covid closing inside fencing is my excuse. Accidentally hit my sparring partner too hard on the wrist sadly too. Great to get some fencing in though. I didn't know the finger ring was so early. I had assumed it was in the 1430s from my visits to museums. Thanks for sharing.
In my research before buy this exact sword a couple years back. Sideswords were a bit shorter and stockier than rapiers, longer and thinner than arming swords, had the triangular blade, and was often the EDC for men at the time.
In firearm terms. If the rapier is a 9mm and the Arming sword a .45 ACP. Then the sidesword would be the .40 S&W
so asking for all the lefties out there.... can we at least get one with a symmetrical hand protection? or fingers crossed a left hand version?
Would there be a way to stabilize the wobbly guard? Epoxy, Cauk, a heavy duty glue? Could you use a clamp and slowly deform it, or would that destroy its structural integrity?
duelling was invented and reinvented various times in global history.
Huh i have one of these swords. I bought it about 10 years ago. I wish i saw this review earlier. Great review. Double click on the like button.
I just looked my sword is a hanwei side sword, and yes the blade is dull and i can unscrew the plamul ( dam can't spell it) but seems pretty solid. Never really used it though. One of my more expensive wall hangers. Im more into Samurai swords.
Thanks for the review.
I've just had a thought. Given that complex hilts fundementally alter the balance of the sword, did sword techniques evolve to take account of the change, or did makers try and compensate by adding weight to the the blade in various ways?
Technique changed, trying to make the blade heavier would have just made it feel like a clunkier arming sword.
Is the similarity in finger rings with side swords, and small sword, mean that the earlier sides words could be held in the same fashion? With only the tips of fingers in the rings, and thumb inline with the flat of the blade?
Perhaps complex hilt trend started when some knight practiced unarmed fencing with a wooden arming sword, and then started to use a mitten/gauntlet from his armor as hand protection during practice. Perhaps he then discovered that it gave an advantage to hold the sword more in front of him, so they started to explore the possibility of a complex hilt to emulate the hand protection of the mitten/gauntlet. Perhaps it was an invention that was bound to happen, once there were enough gauntlets around so they could be used casually for hand protection during practice.
Can you review the Kingston Arms - Spada Da Lato Side Sword and see if they improved? It uses a nut and appears to have a slicier profile.