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How to Pressure Test a Chainsaw by Matthew Olson
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- Опубліковано 11 тра 2017
- In this video Matthew Olsen teaches us how to perform a pressure and vacuum test on a Husqvarna 372 chainsaw.
This process is also referred to as a leak-down test.
This is a necessary step anytime you are replacing a cylinder, piston, crankshaft, bearings or seals. Without a tight seal, your machine will not last long.
Visit Matthew Olson's channel: / @matthewolson8875
Buy your chainsaw parts at HLSupply.com
The beauty of this video is that Matthew didn't try to sell specialized flange blocks. Just some inner tube. Good stuff.
Another great how-to vid! One tip I would add is to always test your tester to make sure it holds pressure itself (I learned the hard way).
Good point! I was pulling my hair out over what ended up being a faulty compression tester a few years ago.
Very informative video, my chainsaw all of a sudden starting running out of tune and losing power when warmed up as if it was leaning out. I thought I had checked everything until I seen this video. Sure enough I had a bad crank seal and was able to save my chainsaw without burning up the cylinder. Thanks!
Thank you for broadening my knowledge of the chain saw, helps make me a little safer when using these powerful tools.
Mat your how to videos are great, and thank you HL Supply for working with Mat
Good info. Quick n to the point.
I highly recommend that saw users seek their local saw technician or chainsaw sales and service shop for testing such as this. Thank you Bruce for being such a great business.
great video!!! very thorough and easy to understand
Found video's to be very informative when having saw issues. Thank You.
Thanks again for this video! Your series has brought me light years ahead in my 2 cycle diagnostics skills.
Ps: I could really give that 550 Husqvarna a good home! Wish me luck!!
Old comment I realize, but a 550 is a smaller saw than what’s shown here.
Great tips. I knew I was saving that old bike tube for something.
Great video Matt, just picked up 1 of these testers, now I know how to use it, thanks
Learned something - I've been working on my small engine fu , so this is great.
Helpful video, makes it look easy to do.
Nice job Mate! You guys rock! Thanks again for let me know about the channel!
One of the most useful skills to have if you are working on small 2 cycle engines for sure!
great video. much needed test for sure!
awesome tips
Good video. More important than people know.
great idea using old inner tube for seals
Very cool thank you..have a 272 that will not pull fuel to cylinder with new carb and filters..nothing
Yo yo Mattyo, thanks for the videyo. How about another on how to test from the spark plug port? And maybe HLSupply could be the first company to offer a spark plug port adapter to allow testing from that port? win, win.... I use an old compression tester with the schrader valve removed.
Does it matter if you test vacuum or pressure first? Thanks for an informative, to the point video!
A lot of service manuals for chainsaws say that you MUST do a vacuum before a pressure. Now if it is 100% necessary I don’t know. I always do a vacuum before a pressure but as long as you’re at least performing both you’ll be good.
Very helpful!
good video ive been wanting a pressure/ vac tester
Very helpful. Thanks
awesome video, your videos are always very helpful!!
Informative video! Thanks.
Thanks for the video
This is great information!
nice video, good instruction.
Good job matty
Thanks for sharing!
What mityvac tool is that you are using
Great video
very good thanks
nice job!
Mat, what are the performance symptoms of a vacuum leak on a (42cc Craftsman/Poulan) chain saw? That is, at what point in troubleshooting a no start issue would we check vacuum? My saw will fire and run momentarily when I feed a few drops of gas into the carb, but it will not even attempt to fire otherwise. Spark (tester) and compression (150 psi on pull) test good, new factory carb and primer bulb, proven fuel.
Great video!!
very informative
Nice vid, thanks.
Good video
Nice video!!!
Good Business. Fine UA-cam Videos
nice! works for me!
Good video!!!
What's the vacuum number. Is that 7 also
I am running a Vacuum test on my 372 Hutzul Build. I had some erratic running that I could compensate for with the carb Adjustments. So I went down to HF and bought the Mitty Vac. I can’t get the saw to even hold 5lbs of pressure for more then a few seconds. I checked my inter-tube at the carb & muffler and tried several different configurations that seem to be air tight. I also put the Oiler screws in. Can’t find an obvious leek. Would the saw even start with such a huge air leek?? I keep thinking I am doing something wrong with the setup. What could I be missing??
Just been on a forestry forum ref a problem with a Husky 61 1995. The pull cord locks when the spark plug is in place. Remove plug and engine pulls over with no resistance. Muffler off makes no difference. I had been trying to start it and over choked it. Tried the recommended fixes. Suggestion that oil in crankcase causing hydro lock, no idea if that's possible.
Waiting for a carb rebuild kit as per further suggestion. Checked with Husqvarna, plug correct for model and year. The original starting problem was possibly crushed lead from kill switch to electrics. Replaced with new. The last time the pull cord cover was removed and replaced one of the screws caught the lead and flattened it. There is no compression release on this model. Thanks from UK.
Did you figure out what the problem was with your Husqvarna 61? I've got one also. It's hard to start sometimes. Either when it's cold or when I'm cutting firewood and shut it off for a few mins, and then try to restart it.
I've ordered a carb rebuild kit, and of course I put a new spark plug and fuel filter on it.
I'm hoping the carb kit fixes it.
It's a nice old saw that I picked up for $50 at a yard sale. Runs and cuts like a beast, when its running....
Hey Matt
I want to pressure test my crank case but my 394 seems to have the impulse line built into the intake boot
Any ideas how to pressurize the case
2 things not mentioned- check the pulse line where it goes into the crankcase, they can leak. Also, clean off that soapy water before you vacuum test! Don’t need to suck that crap into the engine if you did have a leak.
Your a movie star Matt LOL
I'm working on a husqvarna 550xp that wont start/hard to start. When it does start,it idles very rough and takes alot of pulling. It read 85psi of compression. I immediately took the muffler off only to see a really nice looking piston and cylinder. No scoring,no pitting,no notable carbon build up. I really thought I'd find scoring and an obvious reason for the lack of compression. Before I go taking this thing apart,is there anything anyone can think of that would cause this? I'm thinking about plugging the decompression valve hole,but cranking on it and even with it running I dont hear any rush of air or noise of any kind around it.
Stuck ring would do it, but prob not the case here. I’d guess the decomp valve is bad. Easy enough to plug the hole and test again.
@@brucea550 Got it apart and it had a blistered looking place on the piston land. It was deformed and had obviously been very hot right there. I guess it effected the ring too. I've bought a new meteor piston and caber ring,but I lost one of the little spacers that goes on the cylinder bolts and I'm having trouble locating any.
@@ciphercode2298 That almost sounds like a factory defect, if the piston got that hot but no cylinder damage. Not sure what spacer you need, but here’s the exact place to find it- www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/husqvarna/chain-saws/550-xp-2013-01?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=9664fac9225966f44b42b88cfe6832e9d1bc584a-1626133662-0-AVMIMSz67fySoLrHgIWPRCq3P-gGuTM2ZN1YFtWF_zEbSRhlbqtvI2U2gMQzjlW2KJXZWVWaqoihdUb3yVRlnFRP98bv3nvk7lKeJFb9yUf_CQkLT9BgFpiVWnpVBFYO47U2DHcEe1ZWkA72RGusE40WH18IcJppbkTSn-MTijaDrSJ9iq6yIolfWdmbpjZwR2QOG2dyWgAWdo8-W_udnw0HtWae9uqqQxgUFlWl2gMKDRW5Rwod8oBTpnyd2hFBy3jphp4RkLSJSGeUsHXhZKjOPRd_YA3enGGdoyzVeCohi0LDKSGbFrbbZo9sCbUPd4NDpkqFAq9tSELt5wnM4RNXjhnzJOGtj5GK90bMP6JeHaBnqky3QVXH8YL6X-XtDcSjEtq1qXwtpOpU5FIOUwHK2_Aqty8wpMjFW6x-s7Hpvyp6pxsrazvuxsjnROkkG7uBSQVVvNB12mt4Q8oyF3bXR_VHSX8IaSlNT9VoHjeL54a3Sed7PTswWOc8gelOaHamF2jR35UR7vJobtdn41MGbKSiKM9uHMqTAL1uHuOE
@@brucea550 I appreciate that,I'll look it up. Theres little spacers that go between the cylinder bolts and and the cylinder. They set at the cylinders base and are shaped like a thread spool. They're only about 1/2" long. I've never seen any like them,which is how I lost the one when I took it apart. I'm usually stihl guy anyway,but got this saw cheap because of it's running condition. It has a date etched into the top fin of the cylinder beside the spark plug that reads 10 2017,but as I was taking the saw apart the date of manufacturing on the coil said 2013. It probably belonged to a tree service company and saw lots of use and I figure it was rebuilt in October of 2017. The cylinder has husqvarna markings on it,but idk about the piston and ring. I do appreciate your help.
@@ciphercode2298 Jack’s isn’t cheap, but they have always been my go to source when I need a hard to find part. Great quality and service, and fast shipping, so I’m fine with their higher prices. Good luck with it. It’s possible the saw is a 2017 and the coil was simply existing stock. They don’t go bad sitting on a shelf. It’s also possible you’re correct about it being rebuilt once already. I’ve heard the 550xp is a nice little saw. I’m partial to Husky, but have a nice running 041av mounted to a Lewis winch, an 031av I’m currently rebuilding, and big old 066 I use occasionally for slabbing large logs. My Husqvarna saws are all about 30+ years old too, not a fan of computerized epa stuff I can’t adjust myself.
hey ...that's me! :) spelled my last name wrong though
Fixed it... and you look great. No need to watch on 1.5x
HLSupply thanks!
That's a 1st. A video by Mattyo that is only 4 minutes long and watchable.
Ha Ha