22/03/22 I've been teaching myself small engine work for the past nine months and am compiling a complete diagnostic process worksheet so I do things in the right order, avoid testing when I don't need to and make sure I don't miss anything. I've searched for and found every video Joe Pace has posted in an effort to assemble all the diagnostic information available for the "Advanced Sequential Troubleshooting Worksheet" (which was mentioned in every video but which I cannot find anywhere). I have seen six parts - F (two parts), G, L, I and O plus the Block Off Plate section but have not found Section H or a copy of the entire worksheet. If anyone has more information or even just a list of what's on section H I'd be most grateful. I'm posting this on every one of the above sections in hopes I'll finally get the attention of someone from Husqvarna like a servicing dealer who is willing to share that information.
Amazing video! I wish you guys had more videos you explain everything so much better than most on UA-cam. Thanks for the videos you so have they have helped me so much.
What does using a compression tester from the store (presumably a 4 stroke one) do to the engine? How can you tell if a compression tester is meant for a 4 stroke or 2 stroke engine?
Is it possible to have a set up where the hose screws on an adapter like a secondary compression tester? It seems that it would prevent leaks in the set up better. Whenever Ive performed this test, I had problems with the slip on hose and adapter leaking. Also, if not, where can I get the various size compression test adapters that I would need? Thanks
Joe, I built an ms-361 from Farmertec and it ran great until it dropped a piece of the wrist pin cir clip, which smoked the engine. I bought a new short block from Farmertec and put it into the other parts. I would crank and run but only on high speed. As soon as I blipped it to run it died. It would restart but only in high speed. It has to be a vacuum leak somewhere, so I started testing, today. The first thing I tested was the fuel system - the gas tank is leaking like a sieve, where it is bonded to the rear handle. It dropped from 7# to 3# in five minutes and seems to be leaking all the way around where the tank is bonded to the handle. It looked like a kid blowing bubbles. I would not think this would cause it not to idle, what do you think? I am going to run a leak down test on the short block, tomorrow.
He did...but in the illustration you failed to realize the piston was at BDC....Also the test he did was done through a secondary pressure source...A secondary compression test uses the ring seal to squish factor to obtain those numbers by pulling the pullrope….2 entirely different concepts and pretty easy to differentiate too.....Primary ensures the engine is viable to be started and wont have any airleaks...Airleaks throw off the tune and cause hard starting aswell as high heat. Knowing what the compression is-is futile if you have airleaks...
I think he made it: watch your eyes,,,, snap the porcelain out of a plug, then drill the hole to the correct size for a tap. Tap the hole, and put in a hose barb.
Craig are you talking about the adapter for the spark plug hole. if so you should be able to get that through any dealer that sells any Husqvarna brand product using the part number I provided.
Did you know you can simply rent one for free from the local autoparts store that does the loaner tool program...Saves a lot of money seeings rental is 100% free and it doesn't sit on the shelf not being used unless youre a mechanic and it will be used daily or frequently
22/03/22 I've been teaching myself small engine work for the past nine months and am compiling a complete diagnostic process worksheet so I do things in the right order, avoid testing when I don't need to and make sure I don't miss anything. I've searched for and found every video Joe Pace has posted in an effort to assemble all the diagnostic information available for the "Advanced Sequential Troubleshooting Worksheet" (which was mentioned in every video but which I cannot find anywhere). I have seen six parts - F (two parts), G, L, I and O plus the Block Off Plate section but have not found Section H or a copy of the entire worksheet. If anyone has more information or even just a list of what's on section H I'd be most grateful. I'm posting this on every one of the above sections in hopes I'll finally get the attention of someone from Husqvarna like a servicing dealer who is willing to share that information.
Really good videos about 2 stroke diagnostics! Thanks! Was fun to work through the tests with my engine, and helped me find the problem! :)
Amazing video! I wish you guys had more videos you explain everything so much better than most on UA-cam. Thanks for the videos you so have they have helped me so much.
That was a great video. Thanks a lot you've taught me a whole lot I swear
this guy is awesome i have learned so much , its like free school to me and i really apreciate it !!!
Wow, I learned a new concept. Thanks for posting.
Fantastic info! Thanks for taking the time to put this together
I developed and trained our dealer base in Fla., Ga., and Al. in 2011 and 2012
What an amazing learning vid.
Well paced & extremely informative.
Many thanks.
Thanks for the video's you have provided. very helpful to new 2stroke mech.
What does using a compression tester from the store (presumably a 4 stroke one) do to the engine? How can you tell if a compression tester is meant for a 4 stroke or 2 stroke engine?
Thank you. Good and useful information
Is it possible to have a set up where the hose screws on an adapter like a secondary compression tester? It seems that it would prevent leaks in the set up better. Whenever Ive performed this test, I had problems with the slip on hose and adapter leaking. Also, if not, where can I get the various size compression test adapters that I would need? Thanks
Can anyone answer why you have to be at bottom dead center.. Thank u
Because it's the crankcase that u want to check for leacks before piston goes to compression and seal bottom end
@@marcoalvarez5682 So if one were pressurizing via say the impulse line on a saw, as opposed to via spark plug hole this would not be an issue?
The Piston acts as the valve in a 2-cycle engine. With the Piston down, the transfer port between the crankcase and cylinder is open.
pressure test spec 5:28 and 6:36 vacuum test spec 6:49
Joe, I built an ms-361 from Farmertec and it ran great until it dropped a piece of the wrist pin cir clip, which smoked the engine. I bought a new short block from Farmertec and put it into the other parts. I would crank and run but only on high speed. As soon as I blipped it to run it died. It would restart but only in high speed. It has to be a vacuum leak somewhere, so I started testing, today. The first thing I tested was the fuel system - the gas tank is leaking like a sieve, where it is bonded to the rear handle. It dropped from 7# to 3# in five minutes and seems to be leaking all the way around where the tank is bonded to the handle. It looked like a kid blowing bubbles. I would not think this would cause it not to idle, what do you think? I am going to run a leak down test on the short block, tomorrow.
What school was this training. Excellent teaching.
thanks for the video. what testing tool do you recommend?
good video , very thorough
I thought you said bottom end crankcase test is most important with piston at BDC you're testing the top end jug
He did...but in the illustration you failed to realize the piston was at BDC....Also the test he did was done through a secondary pressure source...A secondary compression test uses the ring seal to squish factor to obtain those numbers by pulling the pullrope….2 entirely different concepts and pretty easy to differentiate too.....Primary ensures the engine is viable to be started and wont have any airleaks...Airleaks throw off the tune and cause hard starting aswell as high heat. Knowing what the compression is-is futile if you have airleaks...
It is funny i am a stihl mechanic I do psi and vac test all the time stihl sez 60 second for time
Joe..where did you get that spark plug adapter? I can't find that part number!
I think he made it: watch your eyes,,,, snap the porcelain out of a plug, then drill the hole to the correct size for a tap. Tap the hole, and put in a hose barb.
Will this tool work for carburetors pressure testing?
The Mityvac will but you need to put an adapter with smaller tubing
Joe, I just bought the the mighty vac. I see your adapter and part#....So how do I order the adapter?
Craig are you talking about the adapter for the spark plug hole. if so you should be able to get that through any dealer that sells any Husqvarna brand product using the part number I provided.
Did you know you can simply rent one for free from the local autoparts store that does the loaner tool program...Saves a lot of money seeings rental is 100% free and it doesn't sit on the shelf not being used unless youre a mechanic and it will be used daily or frequently
@@SmokedTirez What store loans this out free?
Nevermind he just answered my question
Email me about avaiibilty of the name of the dealer school. Left email address on previous comment