Good video, short, sweet, and to the point on the task at hand without 15 minutes of fluff and useless filler. I’m glad I found this video because I have an MS290 which was acting up and running poorly. I could not get it tuned to run properly a couple years back at idle or WOT after a carburetor disassembly and cleaning, and so I got aggravated with it and set it aside. I recently picked it back up to have another go at fixing it. I just am not sure if there is a vacuum leak or carb issues, or both, I just know the saw has issues. Anywho, I plan to order a vacuum/pressure tester like you recommended. Your idea to make an adapter with a hose fitting and old spark plug, I will be doing that as well. So anyway, to cut to the chase, you got me pointed in the right direction in order to find the problem and fix the saw, which is one of four Stihls that I own.
Thank you so much! I thought I knew a lot about small engine repairs and i love the 2 strokes for their simplicity. This for me is next level and now should cover everything for me to know about 2 strokes. Sure this applies to marine 2-strokes aswell. Thank you loads
Very good video, and well explained! Just remember to cap off (seal) the crankcase fitting for the pulse tube for saws thus equipped ...OR, as an alternative, use that fitting to attach your pressure/vacuum gage hose... Negating the need to make a spark plug based adapter. Finally... This is definitely a case of "more is NOT necessarily better"!!! Don't max out the pressure (or vacuum) potential of your particular pump while performing leak testing. At some point...TOO MUCH of either will likely exceed the design specs of your saw's sealing system potentially damaging seals or certain gaskets...then you are back to square one!
This is the best video editing I have ever seen in a UA-cam video. Ever. Not many people know that less is more in editing. How did you acquire your knack for setting such an appropriate pace for learning?
I agree! I just watched one (well I watched some of it, couldn't bear to watch it all) where the guy mentioned a torx bit and the size was needed...twice. Once during disassembly and again during assembly. A 30 minute video on how to replace the coil on a chainsaw. The only reason I watched some of it was because his title was click bait (titled something like "All Chainsaw Owners Must See Video." I guess he needed all the help he could get. Anyone who can't replace the coil on a chainsaw without the help from UA-cam shouldn't be working on it and should just bring it to the service center to begin with. lmao
I have a Stihl MS361 that I can't adjust the low speed jet to idle and continue to idle properly for more than a minute without revving it about every 20-30 seconds. Does that sound like something yours was doing? I performed a leak down test (with a leak down tester for automobiles @ 40 psi) that didn't leak down, although this type of test is used for compression test, so it's performed while the piston is at TDC. By doing it like this, it would not reveal any leaks below the piston (unless piston rings are badly worn), so I may try it again by sealing the intake and exhaust and with the piston at the bottom of the stroke. I also performed a compression test that indicated 150 psi. In addition to the idle symptoms that yours was experiencing, do you know what the compression should be? Thanks
What size barb fitting did you use? Thank you. How do you like the pressing tester. I was looking at the mighty vac 8500, but didn’t want to spend that much.
I have an 044, I believe it to have a leak due to engine refusing to slow down to idle. Already replaced intake boot which was split but it didn’t fix it. Can I not just pull the seals on my model without a complete tear down? Although I was going to pull the jug for new base gasket and meteor cylinder and piston.
Hi, Tinmans Saws has a good 044 specific video dealing specifically with crank seal replacement. His method, which many others use as well, involves fabricating a "pry hook tool" and carefully removing them WITHOUT splitting the case. Just don't go crazy during the prying effort and scar the crank. View the video and you will see it's a simple process. Another point...On Tinmans "Victory..." 044 video a German Stihl saw repairer commented that he uses a tiny bit of sealant between the crank spacer sleeve (found on the clutch end of the saw), as clearance between the sleeve and the crank shaft area it slips over has been known to allow for slight leakage (pressure/vacuum) thereby bypassing the crank seal on that end. Use just a tiny dab in the outer 1/3rd of the sleeve should be enough to act as a seal between the two, and it might actually be "good medicine". If one goes overboard with the amount used however, then getting the sleeve loose at a later time could maybe be a problem.
Great video, right to the point and easy to follow. Cool DIY spark plug adapter 😊 I've got a Husqvarna 350 that's in need of some new crank seals. Noticed when it's turned on its side, it leans out and no amount of high-speed adjustment makes any difference but upright it runs perfectly. Guess that's to be expected from a chainsaw that's over 25+ years old (factory sealed). As for those scored pistons, I collect chainsaws and was burned on eBay (Husqvarna 55 Rancher) that looked like the middle example and ended up having to rebuild the top end (nice restoration project) 🤣
That was one of the best made tech videos I've even seen.
Thanks!
(I'm a mechanic)
Merry Xmas Lou. Thanks for the lesson. Love your minimal concise editing. It’s more of what the world needs. To the point.
Good video, short, sweet, and to the point on the task at hand without 15 minutes of fluff and useless filler. I’m glad I found this video because I have an MS290 which was acting up and running poorly. I could not get it tuned to run properly a couple years back at idle or WOT after a carburetor disassembly and cleaning, and so I got aggravated with it and set it aside. I recently picked it back up to have another go at fixing it. I just am not sure if there is a vacuum leak or carb issues, or both, I just know the saw has issues. Anywho, I plan to order a vacuum/pressure tester like you recommended. Your idea to make an adapter with a hose fitting and old spark plug, I will be doing that as well. So anyway, to cut to the chase, you got me pointed in the right direction in order to find the problem and fix the saw, which is one of four Stihls that I own.
Thank you so much! I thought I knew a lot about small engine repairs and i love the 2 strokes for their simplicity. This for me is next level and now should cover everything for me to know about 2 strokes. Sure this applies to marine 2-strokes aswell. Thank you loads
Concise and clear, I am really grateful you have maked a great video, hat off!
Barrel guy Chris here...ill bring over 2 more for you...ha...great video
Love the spark plug adapter. I'll be making one here shortly..
Very good video, and well explained!
Just remember to cap off (seal) the crankcase fitting for the pulse tube for saws thus equipped ...OR, as an alternative, use that fitting to attach your pressure/vacuum gage hose... Negating the need to make a spark plug based adapter.
Finally... This is definitely a case of "more is NOT necessarily better"!!! Don't max out the pressure (or vacuum) potential of your particular pump while performing leak testing. At some point...TOO MUCH of either will likely exceed the design specs of your saw's sealing system potentially damaging seals or certain gaskets...then you are back to square one!
This is the best video editing I have ever seen in a UA-cam video. Ever.
Not many people know that less is more in editing. How did you acquire your knack for setting such an appropriate pace for learning?
I agree! I just watched one (well I watched some of it, couldn't bear to watch it all) where the guy mentioned a torx bit and the size was needed...twice. Once during disassembly and again during assembly. A 30 minute video on how to replace the coil on a chainsaw. The only reason I watched some of it was because his title was click bait (titled something like "All Chainsaw Owners Must See Video." I guess he needed all the help he could get. Anyone who can't replace the coil on a chainsaw without the help from UA-cam shouldn't be working on it and should just bring it to the service center to begin with. lmao
Very good vid. Spark plug adapter is gold. Heading to the shed to make one now
Yet another nice video. Things we not all think about. Keep up the good work lou😁
A 1/4" impact with a 3/4 socket does a great job of removing the clutch without having to stick a rope or anything else into the cylinder.
I have a Stihl MS361 that I can't adjust the low speed jet to idle and continue to idle properly for more than a minute without revving it about every 20-30 seconds. Does that sound like something yours was doing? I performed a leak down test (with a leak down tester for automobiles @ 40 psi) that didn't leak down, although this type of test is used for compression test, so it's performed while the piston is at TDC. By doing it like this, it would not reveal any leaks below the piston (unless piston rings are badly worn), so I may try it again by sealing the intake and exhaust and with the piston at the bottom of the stroke. I also performed a compression test that indicated 150 psi. In addition to the idle symptoms that yours was experiencing, do you know what the compression should be? Thanks
Another great video Lou! Now can you do one showing how you can "soup up" the engine?! 8D
Post up those links, when you get a chance, I'm not seeing them...thx!
Great vid!
Thank you. Added links in description and here.
Leak Tester: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786XP8TR
Plug Adapter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SDGVWQO
Great Video, thank you. Where did you get that gasket material from?
How did you plug the impulse line?
What size barb fitting did you use? Thank you. How do you like the pressing tester. I was looking at the mighty vac 8500, but didn’t want to spend that much.
The leak tester works just fine. No problems. I also used the vacuum recently to bleed a brake line. 1/4” barbed fitting into the spark plug adapter
Thank you
Great stuff man! Thanks for sharing!
I have an 044, I believe it to have a leak due to engine refusing to slow down to idle. Already replaced intake boot which was split but it didn’t fix it. Can I not just pull the seals on my model without a complete tear down? Although I was going to pull the jug for new base gasket and meteor cylinder and piston.
Hi,
Tinmans Saws has a good 044 specific video dealing specifically with crank seal replacement. His method, which many others use as well, involves fabricating a "pry hook tool" and carefully removing them WITHOUT splitting the case. Just don't go crazy during the prying effort and scar the crank. View the video and you will see it's a simple process.
Another point...On Tinmans "Victory..." 044 video a German Stihl saw repairer commented that he uses a tiny bit of sealant between the crank spacer sleeve (found on the clutch end of the saw), as clearance between the sleeve and the crank shaft area it slips over has been known to allow for slight leakage (pressure/vacuum) thereby bypassing the crank seal on that end. Use just a tiny dab in the outer 1/3rd of the sleeve should be enough to act as a seal between the two, and it might actually be "good medicine".
If one goes overboard with the amount used however, then getting the sleeve loose at a later time could maybe be a problem.
I would have probably just replaced the seals and retested. Then again, I don’t own clamshells. Maybe they need the full treatment?
really good informative technical video, Thanks!
Great detailed video keep up the good work
where can i find the gasket material?
Lowes plumbing Isle
Awesome! Thank you.
Uh, vacuum is read in inches or mm of Hg. Yours was reading about 7 inches of Hg- NOT psi. In psi, the vacuum would read 14.2521446032 inHg>
You're one COOL DUDE ✌️
Very informative!
👎 Mm Hg vacuum is not psi, look at your test gauge again. Should be 14” Hg (roughly 7 psi) you were only half way there…
Great video, right to the point and easy to follow. Cool DIY spark plug adapter 😊
I've got a Husqvarna 350 that's in need of some new crank seals. Noticed when it's turned on its side, it leans out and no amount of high-speed adjustment makes any difference but upright it runs perfectly. Guess that's to be expected from a chainsaw that's over 25+ years old (factory sealed).
As for those scored pistons, I collect chainsaws and was burned on eBay (Husqvarna 55 Rancher) that looked like the middle example and ended up having to rebuild the top end (nice restoration project) 🤣
Yep, leaning out on its side is a sign the seals are nearly shot.
That was awesome !
can you do a video on how to make a video for all those that go around the houses talking nonsence before getting to the point
Wow, cllever guy
You should have sharpened the chain? Throwing nothing but powder.