REDODO 12.8V 200Ah plus LiFePO4 battery failure update with response from manufacturer. What now?
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2023
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Trying the same things, over and over again, hoping for a different result, is the definition of insanity. Proper trouble-shooting involves replacing one component at a time until the root cause is identify and the issue is resolved. I would start with a different method of charging. Get one of those cheap bench-top chargers, set it to 14.0 volts, and force-feed that battery until the BMS actually wakes up. What you are showing in this video is the inverter will take current directly from the charge controller (through the circuit you've created) and use that to power the small light. The battery is incidental to this process. The current your meter is running is what the charge controller is SENDING to the battery, not what the battery is reading. In a nutshell, the way you're testing it won't tell you anything. Separate that battery from all of the other equipment. Charge it using a bench top charger for 3 hours, at 14 volts, as Redodo suggested. I would then let the battery rest for 2-3 hours and take a voltage reading. If it's anything less than ~13 volts, let them know. If it's showing a fairly normal voltage of 12.5 to 13.5, hook it back up to your system and you'll probably be fine.
Mahalo for all this information friend! Aloha! 🤙
Agree with you 100%
Thanks for the vid. certainly there's an issue with the battery and by paralleling it with any other source, we're just seeing the higher voltage level of that source.
I found this vid because I am ready to buy 4 Redodo's and wanted to see how they handle warranty issues.
There is nothing wrong with the battery. You just have to reset the BMS. What is happening to you is exactly what happened to me with a Chins. I got a bunch of different instructions from Chins because something was getting lost in the transnational. Eventually, I got the correct instructions and was able to reset it.
And then
Well tell us how.
@@dangeroustoman sorry, read further posts
There is something wrong with this cheap pouch cell battery. How are you supposed to reset the BMS without tearing apart the battery.
Re dodo bird 😂
I've often heard it takes 15 volts to wake up the bms. You could try connecting a 15 volt source with the loads disconnected but the solar charger on. If the BMS is able to wake up then the solar charge controller should be able to start charging it. You may even be able to temporarily set the charge controller to 15 volts and see what happens.
Exact instructions from Chins:
Dear Customer, Thank you very much for your letter. Sorry, the BMS is protected and needs to be activated as follows. How to activate the battery's BMS? 1: Please use 18V solar photovoltaic panels to directly charge the battery. When the battery voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS will be activated. (You can also use 12V solar photovoltaic panels to activate the battery's BMS.) 2: Please use the 14.6V lithium iron phosphate battery special charger (with 0V charging function) to charge the battery. When the battery voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS can also be activated. 3: If you have another same battery, and the voltage of this battery is higher than 13V, you can connect the two batteries in parallel. When the battery with low voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS is also activated. The battery can only start charging normally after the BMS is successfully activated
Mahalo as always JR... making sure I get the fixins for a ham sandwich as I read up on everything here! Aloha! 🤙
hmm victron mppt controller is bad charger, never would have guessed or maybe just maybe the bms in the battery is bad!
I think every battery now should have Bluetooth to BMS. That would show you exactly what is going on.
Totally agree🤙
The Victron solar controller acted like a power supply during the tests, it supplied power to the inverter. The current into the battery was zero, the battery BMS had shut down the charge path. Unless the BMS has failed, a 'jump start' should reset the BMS. A solar charge controller will not do this, it needs to be connected to a simple AC battery charger, another battery, direct to a solar panel.
Once 'woken up' it should charge normally, charging is indicated by current flow.
The default Victron absorbtion and float voltages of 14.2 and 13.5 are ideal.
Mike
Thanks for the notification. I enjoy watching your channel. Everything is working as it should except that battery. It's B.M.S. is definitely bad. Chinese semiconductors has a high failure rate and when it's not the components fault directly, they get burned up due to poor heat sinking. Simply poor quality control throughout the entire manufacturing process. Them telling you to put it on charge for 3 hours is just wishful thinking. It's the luck of the draw my friend and you got dealt a bad hand. I hope you have better luck with the return process.
Mahalo! 🤙
This is good stuff to experience Bob, (except for your Redodo failure of course!) just for the sheer learning aspect of it and the potential of diagnosing and the repair of future failures. I'm looking forward to seeing the cause and not just a replacement of the defective battery, but a diagnosis with a potential for user repair. More power to ya, brudda!
Mahalo brother! 🤙
hi are these grade "a" cells? also how can I get this unit for around $500 here in the USA ? thanks @@ProjectsinParadise808
Three possibilities as far as I can see : 1 batteries was charged when too cold and is gone , 2 the BMS is faulty , and 3 batterie was discharged far too low this is unlikely except if bms is faulty same as 2 , so probably it is a faulty BMS - the only other possibility would be a broken contact on one of the cells but then you would not get any readind as then the bms should swich off . Try connecting a 12 volt car-bulb to the battery-poles see what you get then if 0 then the 8,5 are only a leakage current and bms has switched off
Hello, been following your troubles with the Redodo battery. One comment from their email that I disagree with is this: A switch will NOT help in back charging the MPPT / solar panels (i.e. causing a drain.). However, putting a blocking diode to the panels will eliminate any back feeding to the solar panels. A blocking diode only allow current to flow in one direction and is usually deployed in wind applications and/or in situations that you cannot be sure if the MPPT fully disconnects when there is no solar coming in.
Mahalo for this information! ALoha! 🤙
A blocking diode is essentially a switch. Just automatic instead of manual. Both of my combiner boxes use diodes to prevent the backfeed to the panels
I hope redodo sends you a new battery. sending prayers friend.
Aloha! 🤙
Wow, what a response sure will affect manufacturers future decisions.
8.6V can be sign of only 3 cells out of 4 connected to the BMS. 8.6V divided by 3 is 2.8666V. Think there is a need for checking contact points inside the battery..
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The idea was that the charging current is displayed normally due to serial connection that is whole and correct, while the battery volt after charging is shown too low - probably due to a wire having lost attachment.
Shut down BMS's for protection show voltages like this. A BMS will not show 8,6V if one cell is out of reach. It will not even turn in most likely.
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here's what I have done to "wake up" a battery. Take the 18v battery from a cordless tool, and connect it +/+ and -/- for a second or two. This higher voltage wakes it up, but isn't there long enough to damage either battery, bms, wire.. nothing.
I was thinking. What' could make the battery drop to .09v. Does the charge controller show a spike in wattage when that happened? If so the BMS mostetts could have shorted and are now open circuit.
I would use a lab powersupply and force different voltages and currents starting at 12v in it. Or you can try to short the battery for 3 second.
I believe the bms is turned off or in a fault state
Aloha I'm on Maui wondering how you are getting your LIFEP04 batteries here... im having a hard time finding places that are willing to ship them to us in Hawaii..
I am having a problem with my new mini Power queen, The BMS is shutting down the battery when I turn my 1500 watt inverter on. Some say the new BMS is too sensitive. I had everything working once on a test with 850 watt shop vac. Turned the inverter off and went to turn it on. Everything shut down. No load except the inverter directly tied into battery. Any thoughts. Peace. I will be doing a review on my channel with lower inverters.
I think they should send a replacement and have you tear this one down and test for us…. That won’t happen but I would like their later diagnosis and fix later. I am running 4 100 Ah solar only and not using any 120 charging … as we have plenty of light. the absorb is set too quickly but I try to run them down to 50% and let it charge. Sometimes to 100% other times not, due to use. Lots of plans before fall and winter when I suppose occasional multiples Ii charging. I have them in parallel making 1v
Bad BMS! Great video!
Yet to be verified...hopefully soon though.🤙
Most likely the BMS has faulted from the battery being over discharged. The victron charger should be able to wake the BMS back up... but it is clearly not. Normally you put connect a 12v source to the battery to wake up the BMS.
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well you did the test that they wanted you to do. looks like a bad cell or bad connection inside or BMS. I like how they send a simple diagram of fuse and switch. you have that. that breaker works like a switch. push button for off. shut down. the inverter and light was just running directly on solar. no real current into battery. as for LiFePO4 .1 volt is big difference. when you drop under 13V look at how long it takes just for .1 volt more. internal resistance is quite low. that bad one has very high internal resistance. all them LiFePO4 type are about the same inside. 4 cells and a BMS. large ones may be 8 or more cells but 4 cell bank in series.that 12.8V . wish I could see each cell voltage but only some bluetooth battery's can show each cell voltage. like that chins one. wish they would make more like that . easy to spot out of balance or bad cell. I took one of my packs down to BMS shut down before and the open voltage was around .2V bouncing .1V on meter and a quick jump turned on and had around 10.5V and took hours just to reach 12V. hope they watch video's . all systems should have safety fuse and disconnect switch . they just making Shure you have that. I am loving the nice manuals they give with battery.
So I went back this morning and set all cc's to 14.2v again. As preset in the Victron LiFePO4 setting. get so much great information in here. Last video got convinced 14.0 was the sweet spot. Now back to 14.2 makes good sense as has been so well explained. Gotta admit it keeps me hopping around here! All great information, and the difference of a volt or less can be a bit overwhelming. Learning something everyday, no doubt. Appreciate as always you breaking down these things for all of us! Aloha! 🤙
To determine the problem you have to isolate each component .
I would charge the Rododo battery with an old battery charger disconnected from the system. Also I would never let the solar panels feed the controller with battery voltage under 10 volts for a 12 volts battery system.
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In terms of trying to fix the battery, the other instructions to hold the battery at 14.6V (3.65V/cell) for a few hours are correct. You would not do this normally, but the reason for doing this is to ensure that the battery is able to balance the cells for a good long time, with a lot of head-room. They are assuming in their email that the battery cells are seriously out of balance. Of course, they may or may not be actually out of balance so that might not work. If it doesn't, the BMS itself is probably broken beyond repair and the battery must be replaced.
The BMS is clearly disconnected in your test at 17:11, but you also did the test wrong. A 14.0V target is just too low. To truly try to reconnect the BMS and give it a chance to balance the cells, for this particular test you have to set the charge target to 14.6V and hold it there for several hours. Also, leave the inverter turned off during the procedure.
If it still doesn't work after that the BMS is probably fried.
I assumed Bob was following the manufacturer's recommendations for resetting, and I was also wondering it using solar was the best way to consistently charge for 3 hrs... Maybe he needed the IP22 to correctly charge at 14.6...
Mahalo for being part of the conversation , and trying to help me. Truly appreciated. Aloha! 🤙
That has yet to be tried. All other chargers won't even turn on on this battery, but will on all others. Aloha! 🤙
I am glad you said at the end that the problem is with this individual battery. I bought a Redodo 200AH on the advice of another reviewer and was concerned after watching this review. This the other battery is reliably powering your refrigerator. it's OK. Despite the best quality control procedures, some small percentage of products will always fail.😮
I have watched your video once again and all I can say is : either send it to Redodo if still in time for warranty and if not get a cometent tecnician to open the thing and check it out ......could be anything from a bad solder-joint to a bad BMS , in my opinion .
Hello, I am a lithium battery manufacturer from China. We mainly produce and export lithium batteries for RVs, with product voltages of 12V, 24V, and 48V. The battery capacity is available in single units of 100AH, 200AH, 300AH, and can be used in parallel. A single battery comes with a Bluetooth monitoring app, and GPS modules can also be customized according to customer needs. The continuous current of the BMS protection board can reach 250A, but we suggest that the battery discharge current should not exceed 1C. I hope to have the opportunity to serve you.
I have 4 lithium Redodo barriers one didn’t work. The were troubleshoot with in 24 hours and determined I needed a replacement. The new battery was at my place in less then 72 hours
Good it got resolved! 🤙
Correct charge for Lifepo is 14,6 volts and for float I would adjust for 1,4 volts not less !!! Their voltage curve is very flat unlike lead.acid-batteries which slope down as they discharge
so voltage is no indicator of state of charge at all
I enjoyed the video and the testing, also some good and helpful comments. I have never had a problem with this type of battery "BUT" the shipping boxes are always kept, just incase.
This is the first problem with battery I have had. 🤙
Good Evening ! TAKE CARE..
Aloha brother! 🤙
The charge controller is pose to be powered on by the battery and as you can see it will not be powered on by the battery at around 14:15 and it does not come on until the solar panel is turned on and this is the wrong sequence for a charge controller to be turned on and it may not work properly. The charge controller may show a base voltage with a small amperage .
The battery never got charged properly with a grid powered lithium charger...the heck a simple old antique car charger could had charged that battery or even a 20 volt 100 watt solar panel hooked straight to it .
Got a brand new chins 24v 100ah doing the exact same thing. It was in parallel with another Brand new And that one's fine. Is trying all suggestions here. Currently on variable power supply. At 29.2. Is still only one volt at the terminals.
I was hoping to have an answer on this by now, but I am having a problem getting the battery off island! They wanted to do the teardown themselves. Wish I had more info for you my friend. Aloha!🤙
Had something like that happen, Not sure if u have tried this{different brand battery}. I hooked to another battery{ hot to hot ground to ground }{same AH 12v}and then charged it with a 3 amp wall charger till it read full then checked both batteries and haven't had any trouble with after that. Hope u got it fixed.
13:39 the inverter isn't connected to the battery at this point (the breaker is tripped). If the battery was working correctly, you still wouldn't have power to the inverter. :)
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14.6 volts is max voltage for 4S LifePO4. BMS failure or cell failure is likely the cause. You get what you pay for with these cheap batteries, no guarantee that these are not used cells as well (grade A cells are surprisingly hard to find, B grade/used cells are common).
It is pretty cool that they contacted you about your problem. After seeing your test I would say they know there is a battery failure. Hopefully they already have one ready for the next flight out to you.
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You need to supply current from a LiFePO4 charger. Just connecting the solar panels are not supplying enough current. Use an AC charger and pump some current into the battery.
I tried that. The charger would not even turn on 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 You need a separate source of AC, a supply that will power a proper LiFePO4 charger to supply at least 10A DC continuous.
The BMS of the battery has FAULTY output mosfets, if you replace the BMS, all should be fine. that problem mostly occurs due to the BMS. I had a similar problem with a different brand of battery but when I opened it, one of the Mosfets was burnt but the cells were all fine and their voltages were okay. Now this is because the BMS circuit still finds the cells are fine that is why there is an output since the BMS control Circuit does not measure the Battery voltage at the output terminals.
The low voltage cut off will only operate if any of the battery cell is faulty.
NB: Opening a battery can cause electrical hazards.
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Why are you using the panel, controller to charge? I indirectly took it that they meant to use a 120v ac charger where you can raise the voltage to wake it up and then when that is done, put it back into you system and see if it works.
I did try all of those methods to no avail. Aloha!🤙
This is what I love about America. a guy buys a chinese battery, it works for a week, then doesn't work. he gets a letter from china that says to put a SEPARATE charger to the battery to see if it wakes up. so what does the American do?. hooks it to another solar charger. and it don't work.
Made me laugh brother! Aloha!🤙
could a faulty cell be the source of the problem? or a faulty censure?
The battery is basically disconnected from the system like others have said you will need a charger to charge the battery or maybe even a car battery with a fuse
Also if you use a car battery use an old one, it will help self limit due to the internal resistance
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Hi folks. I have the Enjoybot 300 amp. It went dead and not sure why. I could run a light -led's but battery read 7.4 or 8 with cables off. I use it my van, have the WFCO as a charger with the lithium update and also charge my system using the alternator . I was able to wake up the battery though with jumper cables but neither system would or could charge the battery. Enjoybot has been responsive but it been a little hard to communicate. In the end I guess its that the BMS is not getting enough charge in this stage and I'm guessing yours. So, I bought the Power Queen 20amp charger-120 bucks charging at 14.6 amps. This worked. Started it in the evening and by morning full charge. All these batteries need the high voltage when they get low. I still have question as to why the BMS let it get that low, why my WFCO didn't work- It may not be working now or my alternator failed to charge. I'm assuming that the charge put all things back right with the battery as it was able to charge it correctly. I haven't yet run it down enough to check if it will take a charge again from the alternator and in order to activate the WFCO it had to be in a low state of charge. It may be the battery is bad but won't know until I run it down. Get the high voltage charge. That may be your answer
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You need to look at some utube to see how to open the case without using a saw. Like with a putty knife or something. Maybe the battery can be macgyvered back into operation.
Thanks Bro : Thanks Julian , I’m off too Seek Drew Barrymore Show For A While Now. Thanks , Goodbye For Now❤️
Just connect the 2 batteries in parralel for 1 hour using jumper cables and then check the voltage of the redodo again.14v absorbtion is too low which my lead to unbalanced cells. Even the redodo site recommends 14.2-14.6V.
Tried that too...nothing changed. Mahalo! 🤙
Aloha my friend. Sorry so late to the party. Just try connecting it directly to a 20w solar panel and keep it connected all day. It is definitely not getting through the BMS. Just try that as a last ditch effort. I can walk you through a test and repair process, but it will require opening it up.
If you have a 12v light bulb from a vehicle, you can run it in series with the circuit. A simple interior light or blinker would work. If the light bulb comes on that means the BMS kicked in. Just remember to connect it in series with the panel and the battery. That will be an easy way to see if it can be saved without opening it up.
It looks to me like your BMS inside the battery dropped out, as it should have.
Lead Acid batteries benefit from being brought to float voltage every day. Lithium suffers from it. Lithium likes to stay between 20-80% charge. It’s best to only bring it to 100% when you are about to use it heavily. Repeated 100% charges cause damage. You may now have a failed cell due to over charging. The extra high voltage just before the drop to basically zero suggests this. Zero volts was from the BMS disconnecting to prevent a fire. The chart you show 2 minutes into the video shows what I’m talking about in the left column. The battery is not dead. It’s overcharged & the BMS is doing it’s job by not letting it connect to the outside world again.
You probably need to discharge it some, not charge it more.
Painful process but it is what we have to do nowadays sad isn't it like we buy it just to cause problems for a company
A new one should be in the mail to replace it
Hi sir, I own 2 redodo 12V 100 AH batteries that will be part of a system I'm design for my 2001 casita camper.
I don't mean nor want to be rude but there are few things I noticed about the fusing, breaker placement in the circuit. I cant be sure about your fuse sizing since I was unable to determine those by watching the video.
I did happen to notice few other errors you have made in your comments and analysis of what is happening in your system, your understanding of LIFe batteries, and how to trouble shoot your problem.
1st mistake is not taking the meter reading at the battery as the true and meaningful value not the reading from the MTTP. The reading from the MTTP is the voltage at the MTTP terminal. The difference between the MTTP and Meter reading at the battery is because of resistive loss in the wiring from the MTTP to the Battery. THIS IS WHY THE READING AT THE BATTERY IS A SOLID 13.95vdc CONTINUOUSLY and the MTTP is at 14.1 , EVEN WITH THE INVERTER ON but really no load. One needs to raise the voltage setting at the MTTP till the meter reading at the battery is at the set point you want. From previous comments it is recommended to increase the charge voltage to 14.6 to reinvigorate a dead battery. That might work BUT take the reading at the battery terminals as the voltage at the battery. DO NOT raise the voltage at the battery above the recommended the recommended maximum voltage. The voltage MTTP setpoint should be slightly above 14.6. ALSO if you can limit the DC current at the MTTP output to no more that 20% of the batteries max current. High initial currents when the battery is in such a state of imbalance (if that is the problem and there are several other issues in the battery that can be causing the problem) can damage the battery. We should ask redodo what the 5 top battery failures they see in there batteries. and also the 1 or 2 categories that account for 80% of the failures (thank you Pareto google his principle if you don't know it).
Sometimes a dead battery can be the result of O.E. during system design or construction or implementation, (i.e wiring) or any combination of all 3 of these that weakened the batteries resilience, it could also be a Mfg. defect. If there is a wiring disconnect\ high resistive connection at any point in the cells , there connection or BMS, the battery is toast and needs to be opened to find problem and possibly repair. The BMS might also be bad and need to be replaced.
When the battery is open you will need to check each of the cells voltages and more than likely rebalance the cell voltage's. This is a complicated process for most people and needs to be done with caution and attention to detail. there are numerous people with UA-cam video's describing the process some are better than others. I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU CHECK OUT WILL PROWSE AT Mobile-Power.com. Will is a gentleman that understands , solar PV batteries and a great deal of practical experience a good speaker, presentation and teacher excellent UA-cam video's, I've learned from him.
If you wonder who I am and why I can speak with authority? I hold a BS In Engineering science, Masters in Manufacturing Engineering , and a P.E. (retired) in Control system Engineering. and 30 years of engineering practice. The last 8 of which was as a P.E. in a consulting engineering firm contracting to the transmission and distribution system industry. In that capacity I was responsible in one manner or the other for designing. implementing, Integrating, commissioning, and troubleshooting of protection and SCADA systems that make up our electrical grid. I've performed this work both nationally and international. So it is possible that I know a few things about electrical system design and protection. This is a very simple system. If you would like to discuss my suggestion's and answer your question's I'd be happy to.
From a quick look at the video, do you live in a tropical climate, like Hawaii? I would tend to agree with other comments that the BMS got damaged from overheating. How can a BMS be cooled when sealed in a plastic container in a tropical environment?
I don't think that BMS is dead. On the contrary I think it is doing it:s job.. protect the battery.
The problem is, that because you don't have a Bluetooth connection, you only have some clues to work with.
The only thing you know is it has shut down power input and output. The questions is, "why?"
To activate some BMS's you need a higher voltage (like 4 to 5 volts more), so it receives a clear sign that you want to wake it up.
The correct way of doing that without opening it is with a regulated power supply, increasing voltage slowly until it starts receiving charge. You cannot do that with a charge controller unless you go into the parameters and change it.
If it works, you got a problem, you will never know why it shut down in the first place...
My guess is it went into high voltage disconnect with one cell, or, it went into protection because you have a big difference between the highest and lower cell. Daly actually, with some bms's, doesn't allow you to program over a difference. Your BMS may have that parameter as well and your higher and lower cells have a big difference.
For science's sake, you can give it a quick burst with a 50w 18V solar panel, which is about 4/5 volts higher and try to wake the BMS up if you don't have a regulated power supply.
The other option is to open the battery and check individual cell voltages and start investigating what's happening.
The fact that there is an 8,56 volts reading, means your BMS is alive and letting a beacon out to say "I'm here". If it was dead, you would eventually see zero volts or very close to that.
Mahalo for this great information! 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 You are more than welcome. Your journey is inspiring to me, and I love your content. More than glad to help a bit from Madrid Spain. Portuguese follower here!
That email is wrong. NEVER set the float voltage to 14.0V. That is way, way, way too high. The float voltage should never be set to more than 3.40V/cell except until very extreme circumstances.
Bulk target - 3.55V/cell (14.2V)
Absorb time - 2 hours at 3.55V/cell (gives the battery time to balance the cells)
Float - 3.375V to 3.40V/cell (13.5V to 13.6V)
Mahalo for that as well🤙
I’m considering these batteries, did you ever get this resolved? Mahalo!
Not yet my friend. Having shipping issues. But I do run several other REDODO batteries, and they work very well! 🤙
Crack it open!
Maybe...🤙
I recall watching a UA-camr opening this case. It was very easy and he did not damage the plastic. The funny thing is that the cells are on their side and the manual warns against installing the battery upside down!
I'm not expert, but I've seen other youtubers connect a full 12v lead acid battery to the "dead" LiFePO4 battery for a moment and it woke up the BMS.
I have heard that as well, but have never tried it. Aloha! 🤙
Bad bms?
What about connecting it to a partially discharged battery and see if it will level out? Do it outside though. That should level it out, maybe. Yall know better than I do.
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From What I see - you are just consuming the little energy your panels produce by your power inverter. Not leaving any energy for charging. 16w is nearly nothing for such a large battery maybe just enough to wakeup and run itd bms if so. This 1500w inverter even at idle consumes some good amount of energy.
at the least the bms has failed. be interesting if it would hold a load of say a 12 volt light bulb at 8volts... or if it just falls on its face. to 0.
im running my freshly home assembled 600ah 12v battery at 14.2 volts absorbtion(std victron smart lithium setting)
with a '5' amp active ballancer that i have turn on with a relay at 13.90 volts using the victron 75/15 load output.
14.0 is probably a safer setting for a pack that has no real balance capability. I might knock a point or 2 off my controllers for an extra margin of saftey, though from the 2 times i have observed it in person, it seems to catch up the 20 or 30mv difference between the cells durring absorbtion fairly quickly. some cells are hanging out at 3.54 for a few min while some hit 3.57, and within 10-15 min aborbtion its dead level at 3.55
Mahalo for sharing that information with us! 🤙
Well, I guess all we can do is try brother... And yes, I definitely think it's a bad cell in the mix... Some of the lower companies have been known to switch their packs out with grade "B" cells, I hope RedOdo isn't in the same league with Chins, and Ampere Time... Hopefully this is just one in that 0 to 15 percent failure rate...
I'm still trying brother...got so many great ideas coming in ...appreciate everyone! Aloha! 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 💪🏿
Never, never float charge lithium batteries. I charge mine to 13.2Volts flat. it's been 3yrs, no problems
If you're familiar with how the bms works inside the battery, you'd know the charge input is disconnected inside the battery box. It might be possible to remove it (by the manufacturer and restart it or replace it. But you will void warranty if you cut it open to do so. The victron is seeing no current draw by the battery so it won't go into 'bulk' charging. The victron works by seeing current draw. Since the bms inside the battery is not allowing the flow of current the victron will never be able to charge the battery. I'd never buy one of those pre-built POS units. Gross waste of money and inability to repair without destroying the case. Get yourself 4 - (200 a/h) 3.2 volt prismatic batteries (lfp), wire them in series and get a bms for a few bucks and you got the same thing as you got there for a fraction of the price. Not sure why anyone would buy a sealed unit. By the way if you had a cell issue the voltage would be off by 3.2 volts and not 8.94.
Cell voltage would not be off by 3.2V. You’re assuming a complete failure of one series group which is quite rare. It’s much more common to see 3 groups go high and one group to be lower.
3.43
3.43
3.44
1.31
But yes the inability to read the cell voltages is a major failure of these designs. I’m still waiting for a company to release a budget battery that has a balance port with a JST XH/PH/VH (2.54, 2.0, whatever the pitch is for the larger active balance connectors I think it’s 3.8 or 3.9)
What's the reasoning behind dropping absorption from 14.2V to 14.0V?
Based on all the information in past day, I've gone back to 14.2🤙
My inverter was giving an over voltage alarm with my (Victron) charge controller set to 14.2 absorption, Victron’s preset. Dropped absorption back to 14.0, float to 13.6 and so far all is good. I’m running 4 200ah Redodo in series/parallel @ 24v. 28v absorption 27.2 float
Why didn't you use an AC charger to wake up the battery? Solar charge controller won't work in this situation.
Tried that too🤙
I have some power queens doing similar at 4 watts is all it will do
You have to bring the battery voltage down to 11 volts or just below, to reset the BMS.
@@JR-kk6ce thanks I will try that
their recommendation to hook it on the charger is not a solar charger , more like a regular charger.
I've done that too🤙
it's a dead BMS. If they don't replace it, carefully crack it open and install a JBD bms. them are reliable and good plus have bluetooth so you can see WTH is going on. No amount of connecting it to anything else will fix it. you've already got 14v at batt terminals while charging so this is 100% chance a BMS failure.
Mahalo! 🤙
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BMS is bad OR
multi meter read 8 volts at battery terminals this shows One Set of cells is not connected in cell series = bad connection. to one set of cells or more likely Bad BMS -
if cells were tested at factory and Passed then this =
LFP battery cells are very reliable chemical reaction that can be repeated 1000s of times with basically same results every time
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these batteries need a 14.4 constant voltage. you do not use a 3 stage charger on them, you will burn it out.. you need to look into what im saying.
Think i will stick to lead acid
Id say you didnt leave the two batterys hooked together long enough. I have had my voltx 200ah batterys cut out exactly like yours. I held the battery in parallel for about 10 min and it booted back up after that
How do you like your inverter?
I like it a lot! 🤙
The inverter is being powered by the solar panels ... not the battery. That is the 6-17 watts you a seeing.
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So , after all the comments boosting up your UA-cam ratings , does the battery work correctly yet ? Yes , or no ?
have you tried setting the charge voltage to 14.6 or 14.8v and then observe if any watts are going into the battery or if the battery voltage increases from that 8.55v? This s so painfull to watch I feel bad for you. I hope it`s not Dodo mobile phone internet service provider trying to setup side operation of manufacturing battery packs and then calling ir Redodo because that would be so unprofessional.
I have not tried that🤙
REPLACE THE BMS
i imagine so🤙
On the 14V vs 14.2V.... 14.2V is the correct setting, not 14V, and I will explain why.
Most battery BMSs do not start balancing until 3.50V/cell, which would be 14V for a 12V LFP, and quite a few also won't balance if the whole-battery voltage is below 14.0V. The absolute measurement error for the battery voltage by the charge controller is roughly 0.02V to 0.05V. So if you set the charge controller to only charge the battery to 14.0V (3.50V/cell), there is a very good chance that the battery's BMS will not be able to balance the cells. And even if it does, the head-room will be so small that the balancing time will be close to zero.
This is why Victron defaults to a 14.2V target (3.55V/cell). It ensures that the BMS has an opportunity to balance the cells.
I will also remark that 3.55V/cell (14.2V) is perfectly reasonable for charging LiFePO4 and will NOT stress the battery in the least. The BMS cut-off is usually at or above 3.65V/cell (14.6V), the absolute charge cap for a cell is 4.2V (16.8V), and the electrolyte doesn't really start breaking down until 4.6V/cell (18.4V). So 3.55V (14.2V) is a perfectly reasonable charge target and you should not go lower.
IN ADDITION, if you have a load on the system, the actually battery voltage will be significantly lower than the voltage the charge controller is outputting. So if the charge controller is set to 14.0V, the actual voltage it is supplying to the battery under load from the inverter will be lower than 14.0V which means that the battery will not be able to balance its cells at all, ever.
(I will also note that most off-the-shelf LFP chargers charge to 14.6V = 3.65V/cell, which is "ok" but unnecessary overkill)
If the BMS is not able to balance the cells, two things will happen. First, the battery's capacity will start to drop as the cells go out of balance. And second, as the cells go out of balance some will be low and some will be high, and the high ones will more than likely start hitting the BMS cut-off voltage of (typically) 3.65V, which WILL stress the cells.
This is why you want to set your charge controller to 3.55V/cell (14.2V) as the bulk charge target. For the float setting, 3.375V or 3.40V (13.5V to 13.6V) is appropriate, depending on how much load support you want to have.
Thanks Jukerzn for this post. I'm new to this battery having lead acid for years though I've tried to keep abreast of how and why it works. Enjoybot clearly states to charge battery at 14.2-6 volts. My problem and I thinks many others here stems from not doing just that when the battery gets to you house. For myself the battery arrived at 80% and recommend to charge it to 100%. I did, according to my Aili volt meter. The thing was I used my WFCO charger without lithium capabilities witch meant it charged at the lead acid rate, 13.5-9 volts and never gave the battery it's ability to balance the cells. So this last 6 months until my recent power queen charger the BMS was out of wack. Time will tell but I agree with you. Now I did reach out on another forum for an answer to this problem and was told they would never charge at such a high rate and that a "gentle" charge was better. Maybe, after a correct charge is achieved?? My only worry now is that my alternator only puts out 14 volts and in the past around 13.9 getting back to the battery. Going forward not sure how this will effect it. Also I'm not using a dc to dc charger and max amps put out by the alternator was 66 when battery was low. As it charged they went down and will assume the BMS did all the things it was suppose to do. Thanks for the information
@@theduce3506 For a LFP battery the target voltage is completely unrelated to whether the battery is being charged gently or not, because the cells will hold roughly 3.40-3.45V (13.6V to 13.8V) for most of the charging curve. The reason the target voltage is set to 14.2V is because balancing does not work well (or is counter-productive) when the battery is in that part of the curve. The balancer has to wait until the battery is mostly full and the voltage has popped up above 14.0V before the balancing operation is able to do its job. Hence why 14.2V is a good bulk target voltage under normal operation.
Generally speaking you never want to directly connect a solar panel or an alternator to a lithium battery. It really needs to go through a charge controller or proper DC-to-DC charger. The reason is two-fold. (1) An alternator's output is prone to inductive voltage spikes and this can be very bad news if it happens while the BMS in the LFP battery has turned off charging (2) You don't want to actively hold the battery voltage at the charging target for long periods of time (many hours or days)... that will stress the battery and overcharge it. This is one reason why the FLOAT voltage used for load support is lower.
When a LFP battery is being discharged its voltage will rapidly drop to around 3.3V/cell (13.2V or so), which is where the cells naturally want to sit at. So the FLOAT voltage is set just a tad higher in order to produce load support (because load pulls down the voltage). Thus the FLOAT voltage can be set to 3.375V/cell to 3.40V/cell (13.5V to 13.6V) and remain applied indefinitely, providing load support when solar or other sources are available without actually draining the battery at all.
i.e. once fully charged, to 14.2V, a LFP battery will remain fully charged even when you allow the voltage to drop to 13.5V. It won't really start eating up capacity until it is drawn down lower than that.
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Whew. Sorry for the wall of words. In anycase, as I mentioned, the BMS cannot balance the cells at those lower voltages, so that is why you always charge up to 14.2V and (when possible) try to hold it there for around 2 hours on each cycle. It is not required that it be held there for 2 hours, but it is best practices. When charging, the current will trail off within about 30 minutes of hitting the 14.2V mark and the battery will be at 100%. Assuming it is in good health and balanced, that is.
For LFP, it is ok to hold the voltage at 14.2V for a few hours on each cycle. You just don't want to hold it there indefinitely.
@@junkerzn7312 Many thanks for taking the time to explain things. Best I've heard to date and I hope I did not damage the battery using the alternator. My only question then is if everything is equal, doesn't the BMS by default protect the battery from these things? Isn't it the reason in may shut off or down and that the very act of doing so is a sign that the battery is functioning as it was designed to do? And finally will a dc to dc charger in between actually bump the voltage up to 14.2? I heard some talk that lifepro could send current back through the system and burn up the diodes in alternator.Any truth to that? Again thanks. Good stuff there
@@theduce3506 The BMS will try to, but it can only tolerate so much extra voltage without burning out components. Ignoring that issue for the moment, the BMS will usually cut-off the battery if the voltage exceeds 14.6V. The BMS is not a charger, however, and you can easily overcharge a lithium battery with any sort of (non charger) power supply connected directly to it, like an alternator.
What you are looking for is a DC-to-DC battery charger. For example, the Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC charger. The "12/12-18" model. Just as an example, that one is fairly expensive at $160 or so. Renogy makes one as well for around $110 but it probably isn't as good. The Renogy one is "12V 20A DC to DC on-board battery charger".
Those two (and similar) devices are designed for alternators.
@@junkerzn7312 I'll be looking into getting one and excellent information. I hope all read this thread 💪
Bro. 8v. That battery is done, dead, destroyed.
Yes the inverter will come on even without the batter from the solar system. The battery has nothing to do with makeing the inverter coming on. if you try useing more then 300watts with that setup, it will die as it can't pull that much from the panels.
I try everything with my redodo and never could get it to come back alive. They only gave me a 60% refund to replace to another battery. and I paid over 1,000 for the dang redodo and now you can buy them for $600. I think I got ripped by them. that is why I switch to power queen. And think about it why change their name? Its cause they keep screwing folks with their old name. next theyw ill change their name to wedon'tlie. *rolls eyes*
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😅why dont yiu use another battery to wake it up
I tried that, to no avail🤙
Mine takes almost 5 minutes maybe yours is the same
too much system connected. When troubleshooting the absolute minimum system is all that should be connected. You don't need the inverter and redodo never said to use it. Your charge controller is a variable it would be nice to eliminate by using a less intelligent and less variable supply but it should be okay if it will actually try to charge the battery, but you don't know that it will as long as you have anything else connected to the battery.
You need a charge source supplying over 12v and no more than 14.6v, and you need the battery. Redodo also suggested a fuse. You don't want any loads or other variables connected to contend with.
Digesting all the information from you all. Tried the LiFePO charger...would not turn on on this battery, but does on all others. Aloha!🤙
The Dodo is choking your chicken.
bms is fried
I don't know? 🤙
You have 2 dead cells inside.
Of coursevthe inverter was off you had the switch off. Watch your own video
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What patients
Hmmmm not good
I'm calling it fubar at this point. Aloha! 🤙
I had the same problem reset your b m s
I believe you may be right!🤙
13.8V or 3.45VPC is plenty. It's no wonder everyone is killing their junk grade b Chinese cells.
Of course it failed, Redodo uses low cost. (Cheap) Chinese made pouch cells in their design.
How do you know ?
@@FloryJohann Beacause we operate one of the oldest inverter repair centers in the nation. 24 years and counting.
This is the solution to your problem. I fully expect a free ham sandwich when you find it works.
You have to bring the battery voltage down to 11 volts, or just below 11 v. You can't do it with the inverter because the BMS has to be reset. Get a 12v bulb and two wires. Connect the bulb directly to the battery terminals. Let the bulb run your battery down to 11 volts or slightly below 11 volts. The moment the battery reaches 11 volts, it will suddenly jump up to 11.8 indicating your BMS is reset.
He can't bring it down to 11 volts when its already at 8 volts and won't take a charge.
@@bobstuart5255 it is not at 8 volts. I know that is what it says, but it is not. It says 8 volts because the BMS has to be reset. I know it sounds crazy, but that is exactly what happened to my Chins. In fact, one of the several instructions from Chin was to charge it up slowly to 11 volts. However, that did not work because the battery was a tually higher than 11 volts. Eleven volts seems to be the required voltage to reset the BMS.
Well it's a simple test and won't cost anything to try.
@@bobstuart5255 these are the exact instructions from Chins that finally worked:
Dear Customer, Thank you very much for your letter. Sorry, the BMS is protected and needs to be activated as follows. How to activate the battery's BMS? 1: Please use 18V solar photovoltaic panels to directly charge the battery. When the battery voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS will be activated. (You can also use 12V solar photovoltaic panels to activate the battery's BMS.) 2: Please use the 14.6V lithium iron phosphate battery special charger (with 0V charging function) to charge the battery. When the battery voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS can also be activated. 3: If you have another same battery, and the voltage of this battery is higher than 13V, you can connect the two batteries in parallel. When the battery with low voltage reaches about 11V, the battery's BMS is also activated. The battery can only start charging normally after the BMS is successfully activated
@@JR-kk6ce OK I see what your saying. These BMS are really problematic, I've seen where people have had to disconnect the balance leads to reset but he would have to crack open the battery to do that. I guess its worth a try to hook up a 12 volt bulb and see what happens, it sure can't hurt. When you hooked up the bulb did it light up?
I was just wondering the outcome after this video. Did Redodo honor their warranty
yes they did🤙
Your problem is an actual real SNAFU. The situation is normal when you activate everything like you showed, but it's still all f-ed up when all is off and you're getting that 8ish volt reading of the battery. You followed Redodo's instructions, made a video verifying everything on your UA-cam channel that gets a lot of views. They should just replace it for you the customer. I have 2 of their 100AH batteries and I'm waiting to see how they treat you. Thanks for showing us what is happening and letting us learn from your experience. BTW, Could it be possible that the cells of the BAT are good but the BMS is faulty and not providing an accurate reading of the state of charge? Regardless, that's for Redodo to figure out, you need it replaced brother.
Trying everything suggested...to no avail yet.🤙
I had 3 x Redodo 12v 100ah batteries and it works well for the first 3 months. However, when I had issues they were not forthcoming in their reply. Response and attitude are bad for the past weeks. I am still hoping they will handle this well.