Pomme d'Or - Not All as Planned...
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- Опубліковано 9 сер 2023
- Lead rope solo climb of the Pomme d'Or. A famous ice climb in Quebec, Canada.
WARNING 1: You should NOT use the Revo in sub-zero temperatures. Wild Country does not recommend it. I don’t recommend it either! Revo manual: « Be aware that humidity, wet and icy conditions will potentially cause this device to malfunction or fail. » Also this: • Wild Country Revo FAIL...
WARNING 2: You should NOT Rope Solo with the Revo. Especially without a backup!!
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WARNING 1: Revo manual: « Be aware that humidity, wet and icy conditions will potentially cause this device to malfunction or fail. » You should NOT use the Revo in sub-zero temperatures. Wild Country does not recommend it. I don’t recommend it either! Also this test I did: ua-cam.com/video/sjYHnMkhzhY/v-deo.html
WARNING 2: You should NOT Rope Solo with the Revo. Especially without a backup!!
Be mindfull of your abilities and the limitations of your gear!
you should give lead soloing with a CMC clutch device a try. works like a grigri but you can pay out more rope easily with one hand and I can not see any inherent failure modes with it
@@maximilianpierce5115 I would love to!! Who can find me a Clutch??
Ouch, 800 USD. It’s much cheaper to drill a hole in your GriGri, but then again I’ve never tried a CMC. IF it makes us feel safer might be worth being late on the next child support payment 😂😂
@@allaprima CMC clutch is 800g. Some people think 400g is too much (silent partner / TAZ LOV). I am 100% sure the Clutch is NOT something for most of us. Also I have yet to see someone try it for that use!!
I know this wasn't an instructional video, but around 8 minutes I noticed the screws on the front of your right leg will likely impale you in a bad lead fall, possibly severing an artery. It's a much safer practice to place them at the sides and facing back.
Looks like you had a great adventure on a beautiful route! Really great vid, and thanks for sharing. Congrats on ticking such a classic route.
Even without falling, having them there made holes in my pants once... so, a lesson learned
Great adventure, thanks for taking us along Yann!
The worst part of solo is not to be sharing the adventure. I feel I solved it!! Thanks!!
You're a great adventurer sharing this with us with transparent emotions, bravery and fear . The unexpected is often on our way. You're wonderful ! Thanks.
Love your energy in this video! I'm new to ice climbing and seeing you climb gave me sweaty palms ahahah!
LOL thanks for the comment!!
Hello from Russia, Siberia! I really like watching your movies. It's very informative and cool!
Thanks so much for your comment!!
That's such an awesome video! I love how comprehensively you captured your trip for us 🙂
Thanks so much!! It was a great trip :-) I wish I had the guts to do the same on the Salathe. But I felt too intimidated by it at the time.
My favorite video of yours yet. Very cool.
Wow thanks!!
Holy cow ... La Pomme d'Or en solo ...
Bravo Yann: mega super climb and mega super video!!
Thank you so much! :)
Merci beaucoup!! Oui une belle aventure!!
Wow. Great climb and great video. I really enjoy to watch this.
Congrats👍
Thank you so much!!!
Congratulations Yann! Great climbing adventure!
Thanks so much!!
Really atmospheric video. Very interesting and enjoyable. Great work.
Thanks for the comment :-)
Sick, congrats on the send! Really enjoyed the video
Thanks for the comment!!!
Sérieusement très cool… prochain coup on ira en solo à deux 😆, merci de partager ça Yann!
awesome video. I learned so much about rope soloing too.
That is cool!! Thanks 😊
Looks like a great day out. Nice one!
Absolutely it was awesome!!
Great video! Never having ice climbed before watching you go hands off on the axes for a rest was unnerving.
It was quite unnerving to be there firsthand!! Thanks for the comment!!
Excellent vid.Climbing and narrating at the same time must be very difficult. Thank you for sharing
Thanks!! I do that many times for my online courses!!!
My great respect!
Thanks!!!
CONGRATS Master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great Adventure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
BEST Wishes.
Many thanks!!!
You rock Yann!
Thanks so much!!
You sir are a true-blue iceman! I salute you 👍
Hahaha!! Thanks!!! 🙏
Great adventure Yann! I was just in Quebec from Ontario and I love your province. I want to move there.🍺🍺
LOL!! Cool are you thinking about Val-David? I live in Val-Morin…
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Actually I was in Montreal and Quebec City and drove to Montmorency Falls and Canyon Sainte Anne. A family trip. I haven’t been to Quebec in 20 years and when we got to Ottawa on the way home to Toronto I really wished I was back in the province of Quebec again.
Wow well done
Thanks!!
Yann !!!!! where are your back up knots ? where is the feed loop ? I 've been using your vids to dabble into lead solo, I can say that I abide much more by the book than you actually do . Great climb in any case , and great vid. keep them going !
I never fell ice climbing on lead. I was not going to start here!!! Climbing was my first line of safety. The rope was my backup. On hard rock climbs: I fall often and need a backup to the primary belay system. Makes sense?
Hi Yann :),
thank you so much for this amazing video!!! You are an inspiration for me. I'd like ask you about adjustable leash which you use for your ice axes. What's the brand, please?
I used the Petzl Evolv Adjust. I shortened them a bit. ua-cam.com/video/MIn8Wy29u6c/v-deo.html
Thank you :)
Hi from Verti Call. Amazing vid. When did you shot this?
Thanks Verti Call!!! This was shot 2023, March 3rd
Maybe ATC LRS will work better for ice climbing, I never had any issues with ATC setup
I don’t think so but I learn things every year! ATC LRS doesn’t stop upside down falls, will not feed well with icy ropes and can fail at moderately high loads.
We have one location of ascension in common!
Sûrement plusieurs dans ce cas!! J’ai grimpé à Québec, Val David, les Adirondacks, Chicoutimi, Kamou, etc!
Adirondacks yes. Lake Willoughby in your future?
nice
Thanks!
How do you find the evolv adjust as an axe leash? I am considering it over an elastic axe leash because it could be used for a rest or a belay like you do in the video.
Well I don’t have a lot of experience with many ice leashes but I like it!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thanks for the reply. It's a great video 👍
@@aledge6317 thanks!!
Hey. What kind of leashes are those? I imagine they are homemade? Im intrigued that you could hang off of them in the later part of the video (unless im mistaken). Ive always wondered what it would be like to climb with leashes like that. What is the kn rating?
Thanks. Hope you had fun out there. Unfortunately i have no audio so i couldnt listen to anything you said in the video lol
Petzl Adjust Evolv. Much stronger than my attachment point on the ice axes… I had a ton of fun what a great route!!! And it was in good condition :-)
Brutal climbing. In What date did you do that?
March 3rd 2023!! Thanks :-)
I’m sure there are reasons. Much detailed information.
Why the Revo? And a choice over other devices?
You own 2 Silent Partners as well as other devices.
You have demonstrated tie off a grigri in a upright position with a chest harness and a streamlined backup system. Elmudo III. Many options for you.
You also chose no backup system in place.
I can thank of some reasons (specific to ice) but would like to hear from you without influence from my responses.
Your skillsets are in depth.
15:26 i feel like if you can avoid a fall of 6m it s resonable to do what you did ma men
Haha!!! I would have fallen 12m!!! 6m to the screw then 6m to get the rope to grab, but then rope stretch too so even more!!! LOL
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing even more resonable XD
i started doing rope solo and i don t have a backup for my grigri yet.
Soo far i did not fall cuz when it felt like i could fall i junst clip in and chill
I did have a small adventure ,
i was climbing and cliped a bad nut , an almost broken piton and a veey old rusty bolt then i had a 4 m runout on slab and about
1 m of slack at all times really good thing i did not fall😁
Im also curiour if you fall
12 m would the screw brake?😅
@@nikcezar2445 I’d rather not test it! Have you thought buying the online course? By using a grigri and no backup, you are as close to free soloing as you can be (kinda) good thing you don’t fall! The grigri is not made to “work on its own” without an attentive belayer holding the break rope… if you get the course, you will learn a TON!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing im planning on geting a micro traxion and an asap soon so i don t rely only on the grigri,
i know it s not made for this 🙂
pretty not sure a revo is not meant for ice rope-soloing!!
You are 100% right. Wild Country does not recommend it. I don’t recommend it either! Revo manual: « Be aware that humidity, wet and icy conditions will potentially cause this device to malfunction or fail. »
Also the Revo should not be used to rope solo!! Right?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing heyho... We all use and do things that aren't designed for it as such, I guess as long as you're comfortable with it and know the risks then all is good! my comment was more to highlight to others that might not know about the Revo official design/usage 👍
@@doughobbs7706 Thanks! Yea very important!! Also this: ua-cam.com/video/sjYHnMkhzhY/v-deo.html
I pinned a new comment about this... Thanks!