When you have gone this far very important to look very closely at the EDGES of the groves in the shift drum. Also check the shift forks. 3 B's. Bent ,burnt, broken. Dogs on gears should not be rounded. All should slide smoothly, no hang ups. Crank rods should have no up and down play at all. No scoring in the little end. Can clean some up with 0000 steelwool. The bearing and seal combo in the middle of the crank is called a labrinth seal. Inspect carefully. It prevents bottom end compression from leaking into other cyl. U will never get unit to work properly if any bottom end leaks. Can use leak down tester. Needs to hold 9psi for 5 to 7min.if not soapy water on seals look for bubbles. Mainly leaks on dry side. Remember seals also seal around outer edge. Can use very light coat of Yama bond 4 grey outside and red or white grease in side seals depends on temperature. Red warm white cold. Mating surfaces mirror smooth and clean. Again grey bond not to much needed. Oil everything or antisize. For smooth start up. Antisize, change oil 300 to 500 miles. Then every 2 to 3k. No synthetic oil with new clutch plates. They will never break in. 5k then syn. oil. Don't switch back and forth with oil. All should spin freely after cases torqued.
I bought my bearings from yambits.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Rd350+bearing&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0 Try not to save money on bearings. Good ones will last a long time and perform good. Go for reputed companies like Koyo or Nachi
Hey man this is a really helpful video. I'm struggling with mine. The clutch locked up on me while riding and the rear wheel froze I could not get it to spin and it will not come out of first gear. If I try to Kickstart it the kickstarter jumps back up against my foot. I'm trying to figure out what the issue is. Let me know if you have any ideas.
Hey! Sorry to hear your rear locked. You will have to remove the right side engine cover and inspect the clutch plates/drums and also the shifter pawl mechanism. Have you looked inside your engine cylinders, hopefully your pistons have not seized.
@@seventiesmetal8673 thanks for the reply. Yeah I checked the clutch plates and the shift linkage everything seemed fine the engine would actually run but it still will not shift so I know that it is not seized. I think there's either a broken tooth on one of the gears or maybe a broken shift fork we ended up taking the engine apart. I do have some scoring on the Pistons. I'm just waiting for my friend so that we can remove the engine bottom end from the bike. I'm thinking that something is just jammed and causing the shifting cam not to rotate. All your videos are really helpful though I appreciate it
I was not getting power from my engine even after checking ignition and carbs. I suspected my engine was leaking due to bad seals. That’s why I am rebuilding my engine. Do the same with your bike, if you think it is not delivering power, check the ignition and carbs. If ignition and carbs are ok, then it’s time to rebuild the engine.
@@seventiesmetal8673 If the crankside seal is leaking, engine will draw in tranny fluid. If mag side is leaking, you will see it when you pull the alternator rotor off. If seals not leaking, look somewhere else for lack of power. When was last time exhaust baffles were cleaned?
Hi bro, could you please advise me , what US spec bike parts are the same for Indian spec rajdoot 350,( I am talking about outer parts not the engine parts.) Cause I am in US right now, and I can buy orignal US spec parts here, but not sure about the fiting on Indian spec rajdoot 350. Cause my bike is in india. Thanks in advance brother.
Hi! Please have a look at www.economycycle.com/ Any part in this website that says RD350 will fit your Rajdoot 350. Most parts for the US RD350 and Indian RD350 were the same except for carbs, fuel tap, tank cap and points ignition. Indian RDs were modified for less power and better mileage. And some parts like the fuel tap were locally manufactured.
I've got a barn find 73 RD 350 that I have to replace the crank seals on and this video is very helpful.
Did you get around to replacing the crank seals? I might have to replace them on my 74 rd250. I’m nervous about doing it.
In all mu years of racing RD375's I think I have done this about a million times...
When you have gone this far very important to look very closely at the EDGES of the groves in the shift drum. Also check the shift forks. 3 B's. Bent ,burnt, broken. Dogs on gears should not be rounded. All should slide smoothly, no hang ups. Crank rods should have no up and down play at all. No scoring in the little end. Can clean some up with 0000 steelwool. The bearing and seal combo in the middle of the crank is called a labrinth seal. Inspect carefully. It prevents bottom end compression from leaking into other cyl. U will never get unit to work properly if any bottom end leaks. Can use leak down tester. Needs to hold 9psi for 5 to 7min.if not soapy water on seals look for bubbles. Mainly leaks on dry side. Remember seals also seal around outer edge. Can use very light coat of Yama bond 4 grey outside and red or white grease in side seals depends on temperature. Red warm white cold. Mating surfaces mirror smooth and clean. Again grey bond not to much needed. Oil everything or antisize. For smooth start up. Antisize, change oil 300 to 500 miles. Then every 2 to 3k. No synthetic oil with new clutch plates. They will never break in. 5k then syn. oil. Don't switch back and forth with oil. All should spin freely after cases torqued.
U do an awesome job.
Pity you aren't getting the views u really deserve
Thank you for the support! Help spread the word.
Waiting for nxt video
Ótimo vídeo, muito bem detalhado para abrir o motor.
Agora tem o vídeo passó a passo da montagem?
waiting for assembly video
Plz enjean rebuilt video
Good
Awesome presentation. Location?
Good video
Please Upload assembly vidoes also
🔥
Hey, you got the engine back together yet? I'm doing an RD400
Heyo! When is the reassembly coming? I have the same bike and about to rebuild as well! Would love to have a reference video for assembly!
Have been busy, hopefully in few weeks!
Hi! Thanks for this beautiful video. May I know where I could source complete crank shaft and gearbox bearing kit at a reasonable price for RD350?
I bought my bearings from
yambits.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Rd350+bearing&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0
Try not to save money on bearings. Good ones will last a long time and perform good. Go for reputed companies like Koyo or Nachi
@@seventiesmetal8673 TZ250 bearings with plastic cages are nice.
Hey man this is a really helpful video. I'm struggling with mine. The clutch locked up on me while riding and the rear wheel froze I could not get it to spin and it will not come out of first gear. If I try to Kickstart it the kickstarter jumps back up against my foot. I'm trying to figure out what the issue is. Let me know if you have any ideas.
Hey! Sorry to hear your rear locked. You will have to remove the right side engine cover and inspect the clutch plates/drums and also the shifter pawl mechanism. Have you looked inside your engine cylinders, hopefully your pistons have not seized.
@@seventiesmetal8673 thanks for the reply. Yeah I checked the clutch plates and the shift linkage everything seemed fine the engine would actually run but it still will not shift so I know that it is not seized. I think there's either a broken tooth on one of the gears or maybe a broken shift fork we ended up taking the engine apart. I do have some scoring on the Pistons. I'm just waiting for my friend so that we can remove the engine bottom end from the bike. I'm thinking that something is just jammed and causing the shifting cam not to rotate. All your videos are really helpful though I appreciate it
Why Jupiter was not made in a similar way...)
bro tell us about y u opening the engine n how to understand my bike is need get to repair
I was not getting power from my engine even after checking ignition and carbs. I suspected my engine was leaking due to bad seals. That’s why I am rebuilding my engine. Do the same with your bike, if you think it is not delivering power, check the ignition and carbs. If ignition and carbs are ok, then it’s time to rebuild the engine.
@@seventiesmetal8673 If the crankside seal is leaking, engine will draw in tranny fluid. If mag side is leaking, you will see it when you pull the alternator rotor off. If seals not leaking, look somewhere else for lack of power. When was last time exhaust baffles were cleaned?
Hi bro, could you please advise me , what US spec bike parts are the same for Indian spec rajdoot 350,( I am talking about outer parts not the engine parts.) Cause I am in US right now, and I can buy orignal US spec parts here, but not sure about the fiting on Indian spec rajdoot 350.
Cause my bike is in india. Thanks in advance brother.
Hi! Please have a look at www.economycycle.com/
Any part in this website that says RD350 will fit your Rajdoot 350. Most parts for the US RD350 and Indian RD350 were the same except for carbs, fuel tap, tank cap and points ignition. Indian RDs were modified for less power and better mileage. And some parts like the fuel tap were locally manufactured.
@@seventiesmetal8673 thank you so much brother
Ser ut som Sverige 🤔?