2JZ Crank Bolt Hack - Starter Bump Method - Works For Most RWD Cars!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video I show you guys how to break the crank pulley bolt using the starter bump method. This is the fastest and easiest way to do this in my opinion. If you are looking for a DIY solution, this is your hack!
I've never had that happen so easily. Damn you make it look so easy
Now you know the hack! 😉
Damn you did make it look easy. I just tried this method this weekend and sheared the head off my breaker bar. Guess I'll have to get a new one and try again!
Make sure to use the biggest ratchet you have! 1/2 minimum!
I've had luck with this approach, but I've also had it not work. At least on an IS300, you can unbolt the AC condenser and finagle it out of the way enough (without opening the AC system) to get your impact onto the crank pulley bolt. Lisle tool company makes a special "weighted" socket just for crank bolts. It amplifies the torque from your impact and really works wonders. My Milwaukee fuel impact easily handled the crank bolt, but ONLY with the special weighted socket.
Interesting. How does this method not work? The starter didnt have enough torque to break it loose?
@@RacecarAndChill The two times the starter-bump method didn't work, it was because the starter didn't have enough torque. Bumping the starter, the whole setup just seized. Yikes!
@@GroovesAndLands interesting. Was the battery fully charged?
Dude I did this when I added a lightweight aluminum crank pulley, and the breaker bar shot off to the other side of the garage, sketchy indeed!
That's why I used the pipe against the ground. That way it couldnt shoot out!
Works as described
Thanks! Perfect timing! Need this
I have another one coming that will help you as well. 😉
@@RacecarAndChill sweeeeet
Literally take the key fob out of the casing so fuel pump doesn't engage if your worried ab starting
Thats a great idea!!
I just tried this and the starter didn’t have enough to break the bolt🫤what should I try next?
I've got a 2007 fj cruiser with the 4.0, I also have dewalts newest 1/2" impact that breaks away 1400 ft lbs and the damn crank bolt still won't come off. I had a mechanic do the timing chain 3 years ago and now I developed a huge leak from what looks like the crank/harmonic balancer seal. Can this method hurt the engine if that bolt is stuck? I'm getting angry, and a bit desperate so any reply would be appreciated. I don't care if it's an educated guess or whatever. Just need a little direction cause I'm sketched out
If i open all sparkplugs will it help added more torque to this method?
Can't you just unplug the ignitor if your worried ab it starting?
Yea, that would work too, theres many ways to do it. I took the throttle body apart because I was taking off the valve covers.
@@RacecarAndChill sweet I just did it 🤙🏼 first bump too! But I ended up bumping it twice cuz my friend watching thought it didn't work the first time but our video says otherwise 😅
@@matta3476 haha yes dude I love that it worked for you!! 🤘🤘
@@RacecarAndChill thanks G 😎
Does this cause damage I've heard??
I've never seen any damage happen.
@RacecarAndChill, did you have to set your engine to top dead center before attempting this?
you don't have to, its going to move once you bump it. Once you break the bolt loose though, then you can set it to tdc before taking the bolt out.
How did you tighten it after everything is good to go?
Just tighten it as much as you can. If the car is manual, put it in gear so the engine doesnt turn over. If its auto, just do as much as you can. The rotation of the engine will actually tighten it.
RacecarAndChill legit? I’ve gotten mine to 100 ft lbs that’s it so I haven’t driven it yet cause I didn’t know if I should or not? So I guess I’m good?
Just put the breaker bar on the other side, and turn the key really quick. Give it about 7 bumps and you should be good. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IM KIDDING!!!!! SERIOUSLY DONT LISTEN TO ME.
I feel like I should circle around on this. The crank bolt definitely should get torqued on there. I had one get loose. Manual is easy, just put it in 5th and torque. With the auto, you'll have to figure out a way to hold the flywheel, probably through the inspection hole. But most proper would be to get the right tool to hold the crank while tightening.
I got the tool on ebay for 22 bucks total. Just waiting on it now. Isn't gonna help me get it off cause mine is so damn tight I think something is wrong with it
I'm hoping this works for me...
how'd it go?
@@RacecarAndChill I haven't started the refresh yet. I'll try to remember to let you know how it works/goes when I start/finish. Seeing as the crank pulley bolt has never been removed to my knowledge (no car maintenance records), and the car is from 2000 with nearing 210,000 miles - I can only assume it's going to be a cooperative joy.
Well a "mechanic" had my crank and timing cover off 3 years ago, and it's not cooperating. I hope yours was or is gonna be easier than expected