I've been getting many more questions in the comments, sorry I can't answer them all BUT, I can highly recommend the guides for self installers available at www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk. Go to the "Quick Guides & FAQ" section where there is loads of useful information including the "Stove fitter's Manual". If you are in the UK they also supply flue products and stoves that have been chosen/tested for quality and value, I'll be buying from them for my next install. I couldn't put together all the info they have compiled, it really is a valuable resource, well worth a look.
@@matthewwarrington6006 You can fit a stove directly to a chimney if it is in good condition but you would need a metal register plate with access for sweeping. However a modern stove works much more efficiently with a liner, the extra draw you get with warmer flue gasses can make a big difference to how well the works.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Hello, you suggested to use silicone to seal the closure plate to the pipe. I can only can find products that can only withstand up to 300'c. Will this suffice? Many thanks.
There are higher temp silicones available, Envirograf - High Temperature Black Silicone 1200 Degrees C, Vitcas Heat Resistant Silicone. The lower temperature ones may start breaking down and becoming brittle.
Great video I was in a shop today looking at getting a small wood burner - I asked the sales person how much it would be to supply the bits and fit a stove - £1000-1500 - I think I will do it myself now after watching your video. many thanks
Sorry, maybe because I do this for a living, I'm horrified... on many levels this is wrong and that's why you pay a professional between £1500-£2500. I see this as more of a how not to video!
Great info on this video...but i was led to believe that the regs were that the clearance for the rear and sides needed to be a mininum of 150mm, also the hearth needed to be at least 840mm each way..but my hearth in the recess is only 830mm and my log burner is 566mm wide, leaving it short...but ive seen loads that look tighter than 150mm in the recess, is the side 150mm reg for the outer of the hearth?....also i paid £120.18 for the BC to come out to inspect the flue before fitting the burner...and the bloke was clueless, i ended telling him stuff, he didnt inspect the flue and then just took a photo of the hearth...he then said something about test the integrity of the chimney breast for leaks...but he'd already asked me if there was a double steel flue liner installed..and i yes thats what your suppose to be checking..he wasnt in no more than 5 minutes before left saying he'll ring me tomorrow...on the way out he said he wasnt suppose to but said he could give me a phone for man to pass it for me..i thought isnt that why ive just paid the council a 120quid...
I sympathise with your frustration at what is presented as regs. My reading is they are actually guidance on how to comply with the regulations that state that by law have installations have to be safe. If you can justify non compliance with the guidance then it should pass imo.. If your recess is non-combustible and wont suffer structurally from being closer to stove your only consideration should be air flow , circulation around the stove, for efficient room heating and preventing the stove from warping or cracking. Hearth size in front of the stove is more sensible as you don't want embers on your carpets, but its ridiculous to say it needs a full depth constructional hearth if the stove hasn't been certified not exceed 100 degrees directly underneath it. As for the Council Building control inspectors, some are better than others, and they always need to tick the right boxes at your expense. Just help them do that however silly might seem.
Yes, the stove manufacturer will state the minimum distances required. If the back or sides are too close the air flow around the stove won't be enough to cool the metal when the stove has a good burn on. if it is too hot the steel/iron will distort and cause problems with the joints in the structure. Also less space = less heat transfer in to the room, better off with a smaller stove and good air flow around it. Check what the manufacturer states as the minimums, and give it a bit more if you can. ( all assuming distance is to a non-combustible surface/structure).
If your flue is checked out and is good then no you don't need to line it. B UT a modern stove is likely to perform better with the increase draw from a lined flue.
Just to say if a brick did fall on steel it would leave a massive dent as it doesn't need to be any thicker than 2mm . Most use the lighter stuff anyways. Cement board is just as good
From what I have found out (UK); ''Whenever you have a woodburning stove installed in a fireplace, you will have a plate above the stove blocking off the bottom of the chimney. The plate must be made of solid, non-combustible material. You may hear this plate referred to as a “Closure” or “Register” plate. Although these terms are often used interchangeably by some people, there is an important difference between them. A Register Plate should always be fitted whenever a stove vents DIRECTLY into the chimney (ie if the chimney is sound and there is NO flue liner connected directly to the stove or stove pipe). The purpose of this register plate is to ensure no fumes, especially Carbon Monoxide, escapes back into the room. The Register Plate must therefore be sealed around the edges and around the stove pipe. The Register Plate must also have an access hatch to enable the chimney to be swept. CLOSURE PLATE performs a different purpose. It is essentially cosmetic and can also reduce heat loss into a chimney which is lined with, for example, a stainless steel flexible flue liner. Because the stove is directly connected to the flue liner, the Closure Plate is not required to be tightly sealed in the same way as a Register Plate; it also does not need an access hatch for sweeping as this will take place either through the stove or, where fitted, through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe. If your chimney has been thoroughly swept before the flue liner was installed, there should be minimal soot deposits collected over time on the top of it''.
Had to check on my cats until i realised it was yours. Juat had my chimney bored out and a stainless flue put in. Funds ran out so the final process of exhaust from stove I'm doing myself.. Was just about to start and i thought I'd best watch a video first.
Francis Barnett Thanks Francis, I had a quick look at your channel, some fascinating stuff you get up to. I think I'll be back for more of the timber framing at some point.
I was going to have a hetas fit my woodburner but when my wife asked if we should allow 2 days, he said no 3 hours.(I'd done all the donkey work fixing the fireplace). After expenses, 750 quid. 250 net an hour! She gave me the job. I charge 3 cups of tea
My husband is fitting his now, your video was of immense use, he's a builder, and has built many a fireplace in the past, and he watched it all the way through, even telling me to shush, which i may add is pretty significan,t, , as you answered a few questions , ie, the register plate, and the tip on cutting the pipe, and also , to fianly the use of silicone as a filler , he was most impressed. Would reccomend anyone to watch your video, extremely helpful, many thanks.
iDoStuff, I've been using your videos to help me install my own stove. I've had to learn bricklaying and plaster-boarding along the way also. I used the hardie backer for the inside of the fireplace and also used it for the closure plate as many of my bricks were untidy. Will get the local building regs to sign it off. Thanks for a thoroughly enjoyable video and helpful hints. You gave me the confidence to start this project.
Agreed. Best how to on UA-cam. The headcam helped, as it gave us a 'fitters-eye-view' of the process, with all the 'boring' bits chopped out. UA-camrs could learn a lot from this. 5 Star video as it gives me a lot of confidence to fit my own.
2.17am UK time, the best enjoyable video i have watched in a long time, commentary was awesome, as another comment posted, you also kept me intrigued the entire video. I shall have a look at your other videos, well made video, no nonsense, yet brilliant camera work, very educational and formative. Thank you for your efforts.
Fantastic video, extremely well explained and enjoyed watching the video. If you have time to respond, no worries if not, some of my sealant has come off the colar/ flue connection. What is the best way to remove so I can reapply around the pipe rather than just the bits that have come off, and is there a recommendation for sealant/ cement ? One that can be sprayed afterwards to match the stove colour?
Fire cement is brittle and the constant expansion and contraction of the metal often causes it to chip off however the main body of it in the joint tends to keep it well sealed so it more of a cosmetic problem than functional. Chipping it out with a screw driver of similar is the only way unless you dismantle the joint. Re-pack it with fresh fire cement that can be sprayed when completely dry.
Many thanks feedback very much appreciated. Actually I can fit a small (satay) wooden stick inbetween the collar and the pipe where the cement is normally located so when you say it’s just estethetics maybe my issue is more foundational that either the flue or collar is not properly fitted. The wooden stick goes all the way in the stove is that normal!? Don’t think I can add a photo here but if I can will do.
@@filipbali In that case yes it need fixing before you use it. If the gap is wide when all the old cement is dug out, it can help if you first pack it out with the braided outer layer of fire rope.
This is next on the list... very good incite into the how the diy'r can do it right and save fiew quid.. certificate is a must for me.. i will be seeking local advice on pricing .. TOP JOB THO..
As Stoverfitter's TV points out it's the type suitable for solid fuel flues, permitted under UK building regulations, it has to be used as a liner only within a masonry flue.
@@SuperSlightofhand It is 904 grade flue liner made of two layers compressed together. It is exactly what should be used. There is something else called twin wall flue which is about an inch thick for creating "clip together chimneys" outside a brick/stone/pot/pewter chimney. But this is chimney liner see here: www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/products/duraflue-316-904-grade-chimney-flue-liner
Nice walk-through.. One sticking point for me is the 150mm from the back of the burner to the wall behind. Yours looks pretty close to the wall at the back?
It doesn't look as hard as the experts make it sound! I'm just about to get a stove installed inside my Victorian cast iron fireplace. I was told you had to remove them but have since found out you don't.
I'm not advising anyone cut corners on regulations, but when was that chimney originally built? No government was around regulating fireplaces in my neck of the woods 75 or 100 years ago, their chimneys still work fine.
They may still work fine but unfortunately as modern practices came in such as sealing off open fireplaces, some chimneys started to degrade. On my house for example which was built in 1935 the fireplace opening was blocked when we moved in and I re-opened it. After having it swept and doing a smoke test, the stack was leaking in the loft. After inspection it was clear that when the chimney was blocked downstairs they sealed it in causing moisture to settle where the chimney stack is and it destroyed the mortar between the bricks causing a leak. If this was not spotted and fixed it could have been really dangerous.
How much should I expect to pay for an inspdction of a 2yr old fitting of flue & woodburner as I heard a massive crash and think the liner has also fallen. Many thanks
Just like to say thanks for putting video up. This saved me a small fortune as people wanted to charge the earth to do it for me. Took me a few hours but got it done. Thanks again. 👍
Put stove in place cut reg plate etc , drop liner into room connect flue pipe etc then pull the flex up put stove in place drop flex back down and fit reg plate when thats finished go on roof and terminate liner and fit pot hanger , this is easier the trying to attach flue pipe half way up chimney
Just brilliant. I'm just about to connect up the flue liner and thought I'd check it out on You Tube. Really confident now. That idea to use a cement board instead of a metal plate is something I'll use in future.Thanks
Loved the video, learnt something from the comment section to, you don't have and support installed like in your damage test, the board will fail if a brick hit from high enough with no support to dampen to impact. Still a good video 😉
How would I go about installing a stove into fireplace that has a concrete liner? I removed a working open fireplace when I renovated my property but want to put a stove back in. Registered installers want to fit a stainless flue which I think could be overkill for my situation, especially if I can't get a liner down the existing flue.
Great video, any suggestions for a collar that doesnt slide up the pipe? My collar has a smaller rectanular hole that dosent allow me to slide it up as shown.
Thanks! I was contemplating making my own register plate out of steel but would be a pain to cut and shape. Using cement fibre board is a much simpler solution. Unfortunately, I can't find hardiebacker board here in this country but they do have standard non-combustible cement board. What temperature rating would it need to have?
So you sealed the rear brickwork, with a fire rate sealer is it possible to get a clear sealent as we have been advised in our area 50mm is minuium.I believe so steel closure in this area suburb of London. A first class video
Floyd Pitt’s comment, albeit 3years ago, explained the function of a register plate and the function of a closure plate; essentially two different functions! There appears to be a great deal of confusion/debate as to what non combustible materials the plates can be made from ie metallic or non metallic material. Does anyone happen to know which, specific, Regulation/s (if any) refer to the properties of register plates and closure plates, please? The plate featured in this video is a closure plate, not a register plate. I am keen to determine if cement fibre board, similar to that used in the video, can be used for a register plate. Official/definitive answers would be much appreciated.
Good video to give a general idea of a stove installation. However, if installing a 'closure' plate in England or Wales then it should be made from a minimum of '1.5mm corrosion resistant steel plate'.
I was a HETAS installer for many years. Being a member means inspections of installations. All my liner installations had Hardiebacker closure plates. Inspections always passed with flying colours. I asked Hetas multiple times about closure plates and the reply was always: as long as A1 fire rated. I asked an inspector who was inspecting my job if Hardiebacker was fine and he said that it passed because it was A1 fire rated. Even if a brick came down the chimney and broke the plate the flue liner contains the smoke and is not compromised. Aside from this Hetas has no jurisdiction over anybody except Hetas installers. Building Control is the boss outside of Hetas. Building Control is above Hetas.
Great video, I've been following it to fit my stove, the only problem I have is trying to drill into the rock that has been used to build the house so I can fit the closure plate 😬
A good quality (sharp) masonry bit in a hammer drill should help. If you cant go in straight because the combination of big drill an bit is too big for the space you can go in at an angle.
@@idostuffcouk Unfortunately the rock kept shattering and I was only using a 4.5mm drill. In the end I opted to utilise the old metal frame to screw up into and then I'll mortar around the edges as per your guide to really secure it.
Good install job. My only comment to make this install easier, would be the use of something they can a "slip joint." You can get a special section of pipe to slide anywhere from about 1-10 inches into a joining pipe. The use of this joint eliminates the need for precise cutting.
Hi I'm hoping you can help with my project. I am planning on installing the Volcano Plus fireplace insert into my existing masonry fireplace but I want to build out from the old firebox one foot along the whole wall so I can build new built-in bookshelves that the fireplace is flush with. How should I prepare the space for the insert in the areas where it is not set in the old firebox? Is it safe to use metal studs/cement board and firerated roxul to fill in the empty spaces? The insert is Supreme Fireplaces Volcano Plus. Thanks for your help, James
Hi James, Sorry I can't offer specific advise. Building out, might be easier and more stable with masonry. Also consider the hearth and if the bookshelves are considered flammable if close to the insert or flue.
Never gonna happen: local enforcement is already non-existent. Half the people on my street are burning coal fires. Its a poor area - who's gonna go door to door telling people they can't be warm in their own homes? Start a riot in my neck of the woods that would.
Great video thankyou . I've just purchased a second hand stove. Exactly the same as this any ideas on the make and model so I can get a spares list etc please . Many thanks for you time
If I remember right it's a Town and Country Fires, Lttle Thurlow. Instructions can be downloaded from - www.townandcountryfires.co.uk/product/the-little-thurlow/
You want a lorry load to fill that chimney not actually practical to do that really with old open santa clause type chimney. If the chimney is internal in most cases there will be no issues there is an insulated sleeve you can buy to slight over the flexibil flue liner for situations like there if needed
It doesn't matter what you think ....you have to use 1.5 galvanised steel for register plate in the Uk. Careful when you advise as it's not right . Really the steel plate should be attached with metal angle too. Sorry just telling you the Hetas facts.
He is not fitting a register plate. He is fitting a closure plate and a closure plate can be any non-combustible material. Hetas do not make the rules and only Hetas fitters have to follow Hetas rules. Building regs are what matter to anybody outside of Hetas. Having said that, when I was a Hetas installer a closure plate could still be any non-combustible material.
I've been informed by the helpful people on the Hearth.com forum that in the U.S. to meet the "Code" the liner would need to be insulated. So the debate on that issue continues. Have read of the comments on the previous liner installation video and the full write up. The thread to look for on hearth.com is Nice Install Video - UK
+iDoStuff In the U.K and Ireland the liners are twin wall....so may be the codes just tend to vary across the globe...www.fluesupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_99&products_id=1337
+malachy1847 Yes it needs to be twin wall, specified for solid fuel. In most stove installation it also needs to be 6". I would also use the 904 spec stainless, slightly more expensive but compared to the total cost of putting a stove in it's worth it in the long run.
I've been getting many more questions in the comments, sorry I can't answer them all BUT, I can highly recommend the guides for self installers available at www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk. Go to the "Quick Guides & FAQ" section where there is loads of useful information including the "Stove fitter's Manual". If you are in the UK they also supply flue products and stoves that have been chosen/tested for quality and value, I'll be buying from them for my next install. I couldn't put together all the info they have compiled, it really is a valuable resource, well worth a look.
At least you answer.
Do you need to put in a liner? Or can you just use the chimney as is?
@@matthewwarrington6006 You can fit a stove directly to a chimney if it is in good condition but you would need a metal register plate with access for sweeping. However a modern stove works much more efficiently with a liner, the extra draw you get with warmer flue gasses can make a big difference to how well the works.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Great video! Clear and concise, well presented, through, and a professional finish. 10 out of 10.
I agree What a refreshing change to hear an English voice that’s easy on the ear
Good how-to video, very clear instruction. Thank you.
Hello, you suggested to use silicone to seal the closure plate to the pipe. I can only can find products that can only withstand up to 300'c. Will this suffice? Many thanks.
There are higher temp silicones available, Envirograf - High Temperature Black Silicone 1200 Degrees C, Vitcas Heat Resistant Silicone. The lower temperature ones may start breaking down and becoming brittle.
Thanks for the reply. Just discovered the victus one. Also, did you use lime mortar to secure around the plate or just regular sand cement mix?
@@firstnamelastname59 Probably NHL lime on that one but cement would be fine on most jobs
@@idostuffcouk Thanks, very helpful.
An excellent informative and interesting video, thanks it answered many of my questions....
Great video I was in a shop today looking at getting a small wood burner - I asked the sales person how much it would be to supply the bits and fit a stove - £1000-1500 - I think I will do it myself now after watching your video. many thanks
Sorry, maybe because I do this for a living, I'm horrified... on many levels this is wrong and that's why you pay a professional between £1500-£2500. I see this as more of a how not to video!
@@mikebarrett5345 Why? What's wrong with it?
I asked about wood burner in a shop ….supplied and fitted £5000 as of dec 2022
Thanks for the video buddy, good work
Great info on this video...but i was led to believe that the regs were that the clearance for the rear and sides needed to be a mininum of 150mm, also the hearth needed to be at least 840mm each way..but my hearth in the recess is only 830mm and my log burner is 566mm wide, leaving it short...but ive seen loads that look tighter than 150mm in the recess, is the side 150mm reg for the outer of the hearth?....also i paid £120.18 for the BC to come out to inspect the flue before fitting the burner...and the bloke was clueless, i ended telling him stuff, he didnt inspect the flue and then just took a photo of the hearth...he then said something about test the integrity of the chimney breast for leaks...but he'd already asked me if there was a double steel flue liner installed..and i yes thats what your suppose to be checking..he wasnt in no more than 5 minutes before left saying he'll ring me tomorrow...on the way out he said he wasnt suppose to but said he could give me a phone for man to pass it for me..i thought isnt that why ive just paid the council a 120quid...
I sympathise with your frustration at what is presented as regs. My reading is they are actually guidance on how to comply with the regulations that state that by law have installations have to be safe. If you can justify non compliance with the guidance then it should pass imo.. If your recess is non-combustible and wont suffer structurally from being closer to stove your only consideration should be air flow , circulation around the stove, for efficient room heating and preventing the stove from warping or cracking. Hearth size in front of the stove is more sensible as you don't want embers on your carpets, but its ridiculous to say it needs a full depth constructional hearth if the stove hasn't been certified not exceed 100 degrees directly underneath it. As for the Council Building control inspectors, some are better than others, and they always need to tick the right boxes at your expense. Just help them do that however silly might seem.
great video mate
Thank you . Very professional
Just wondering do you have to leave any space at the back and sides? if fitting a stove in a fireplace? Thanks
Yes, the stove manufacturer will state the minimum distances required. If the back or sides are too close the air flow around the stove won't be enough to cool the metal when the stove has a good burn on. if it is too hot the steel/iron will distort and cause problems with the joints in the structure. Also less space = less heat transfer in to the room, better off with a smaller stove and good air flow around it. Check what the manufacturer states as the minimums, and give it a bit more if you can. ( all assuming distance is to a non-combustible surface/structure).
What a great video
We have removed a coal fired back boiler as we now have a combi boiler, so do we still need a flue liner
If your flue is checked out and is good then no you don't need to line it. B
UT a modern stove is likely to perform better with the increase draw from a lined flue.
Where does the Flange Inverter go?
+John Rayner . Between the unisex spigot and the thrutch plate.
It goes beneath the the dopler node
For 16 minutes long you kept my attention, mate. Best how to do vid I have seen on You Tube!
Thanks
second that!
I totally agree. Exceptionally brilliant! Loved every minute of it.
Just to say if a brick did fall on steel it would leave a massive dent as it doesn't need to be any thicker than 2mm . Most use the lighter stuff anyways. Cement board is just as good
Excellent video, keep up the good work and cheers from Waukesha Wisconsin USA
From what I have found out (UK); ''Whenever you have a woodburning stove installed in a fireplace, you will have a plate above the stove blocking off the bottom of the chimney. The plate must be made of solid, non-combustible material. You may hear this plate referred to as a “Closure” or “Register” plate. Although these terms are often used interchangeably by some people, there is an important difference between them.
A Register Plate should always be fitted whenever a stove vents DIRECTLY into the chimney (ie if the chimney is sound and there is NO flue liner connected directly to the stove or stove pipe). The purpose of this register plate is to ensure no fumes, especially Carbon Monoxide, escapes back into the room. The Register Plate must therefore be sealed around the edges and around the stove pipe. The Register Plate must also have an access hatch to enable the chimney to be swept.
CLOSURE PLATE performs a different purpose. It is essentially cosmetic and can also reduce heat loss into a chimney which is lined with, for example, a stainless steel flexible flue liner. Because the stove is directly connected to the flue liner, the Closure Plate is not required to be tightly sealed in the same way as a Register Plate; it also does not need an access hatch for sweeping as this will take place either through the stove or, where fitted, through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe. If your chimney has been thoroughly swept before the flue liner was installed, there should be minimal soot deposits collected over time on the top of it''.
Hi, first time I have felt the need to leave a comment on youtube! I found this really helpful and appreciate the time put into it, thanks, Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy.
Bloody brilliant video, no fuss, no life story, just the facts, info and tips.
Had to check on my cats until i realised it was yours. Juat had my chimney bored out and a stainless flue put in. Funds ran out so the final process of exhaust from stove I'm doing myself.. Was just about to start and i thought I'd best watch a video first.
what a great video well explained with some great advice
Thank you
Looks a decent job. Love your work.
Francis Barnett Thanks Francis, I had a quick look at your channel, some fascinating stuff you get up to. I think I'll be back for more of the timber framing at some point.
I was going to have a hetas fit my woodburner but when my wife asked if we should allow 2 days, he said no 3 hours.(I'd done all the donkey work fixing the fireplace).
After expenses, 750 quid. 250 net an hour! She gave me the job. I charge 3 cups of tea
I loved your laid back narration! excellent and very informative video, thank you.
My friend enjoyed this so much that he watched it over 7 times in one sitting! Crazy times.
Wow, that sounds like it took a whole working day
@@calparton6372 hours actually
That's mental, Surely he must have been installing one himself?
@@calparton637 I don’t know, it was just reported to me that he’d watched it for 2 hours.
@@jacktrubshaw4576 Hopefully he'll enjoy the prequel, ua-cam.com/video/RcVxKqkcCMc/v-deo.htmlsi=j9TdRZJSQcTM2JnT, just as much. 😁
i have never commented on a video before after watching 100's of 'how too' but this one is awesome, so informative and enjoyable.... well done!!!!!
It's been really nice to watch someone who's confident about what he is doing. Thank you for an excellent and swift demonstration.
Here watching myself and I agree 👍
My husband is fitting his now, your video was of immense use, he's a builder, and has built many a fireplace in the past, and he watched it all the way through, even telling me to shush, which i may add is pretty significan,t, , as you answered a few questions , ie, the register plate, and the tip on cutting the pipe, and also , to fianly the use of silicone as a filler , he was most impressed. Would reccomend anyone to watch your video, extremely helpful, many thanks.
+lindy cole . Thanks, It's good to know people are findng it useful.
Very interesting, nice job.
I am totally in love with my log burner.
I can cook with, keeps me warm, better than a tv and doesn't argue 😆
Another self centred woman, whatever next
this was bang on, im shite at DIY but can folo this no probs.
You sound like the guy from "Dead man's shoes"! Thought you were gonna waste some bad guys in your video! Awesome tutorial! 👊🏻🙂
😂😂😂
I watch alot of videos on UA-cam
, very rare I comment. This guy deserves one.. great video mate.
iDoStuff, I've been using your videos to help me install my own stove. I've had to learn bricklaying and plaster-boarding along the way also. I used the hardie backer for the inside of the fireplace and also used it for the closure plate as many of my bricks were untidy. Will get the local building regs to sign it off. Thanks for a thoroughly enjoyable video and helpful hints. You gave me the confidence to start this project.
Cheers Shane
A brilliant video. You explained exactly how to do it effectively in a very clean way. Thanks for the tutorial I appreciate this.
Agreed. Best how to on UA-cam. The headcam helped, as it gave us a 'fitters-eye-view' of the process, with all the 'boring' bits chopped out. UA-camrs could learn a lot from this. 5 Star video as it gives me a lot of confidence to fit my own.
2.17am UK time, the best enjoyable video i have watched in a long time, commentary was awesome, as another comment posted, you also kept me intrigued the entire video.
I shall have a look at your other videos, well made video, no nonsense, yet brilliant camera work, very educational and formative.
Thank you for your efforts.
Great video, very informative. One question, did you screw the fire collar from the inside of the stove?
Thanks, on this one the collar screws down from the top, much easier than ones that have to be done from inside.
Fantastic video, extremely well explained and enjoyed watching the video. If you have time to respond, no worries if not, some of my sealant has come off the colar/ flue connection. What is the best way to remove so I can reapply around the pipe rather than just the bits that have come off, and is there a recommendation for sealant/ cement ? One that can be sprayed afterwards to match the stove colour?
Fire cement is brittle and the constant expansion and contraction of the metal often causes it to chip off however the main body of it in the joint tends to keep it well sealed so it more of a cosmetic problem than functional. Chipping it out with a screw driver of similar is the only way unless you dismantle the joint. Re-pack it with fresh fire cement that can be sprayed when completely dry.
Many thanks feedback very much appreciated. Actually I can fit a small (satay) wooden stick inbetween the collar and the pipe where the cement is normally located so when you say it’s just estethetics maybe my issue is more foundational that either the flue or collar is not properly fitted. The wooden stick goes all the way in the stove is that normal!? Don’t think I can add a photo here but if I can will do.
@@filipbali In that case yes it need fixing before you use it. If the gap is wide when all the old cement is dug out, it can help if you first pack it out with the braided outer layer of fire rope.
This is next on the list... very good incite into the how the diy'r can do it right and save fiew quid.. certificate is a must for me.. i will be seeking local advice on pricing .. TOP JOB THO..
How to burn your house down:
Use lightweight flex duct as a flue liner.
Wrong, just wrong.
He says in the video it is 904 grade liner. If so that is good. Julian www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk
As Stoverfitter's TV points out it's the type suitable for solid fuel flues, permitted under UK building regulations, it has to be used as a liner only within a masonry flue.
@@SuperSlightofhand It is 904 grade flue liner made of two layers compressed together. It is exactly what should be used. There is something else called twin wall flue which is about an inch thick for creating "clip together chimneys" outside a brick/stone/pot/pewter chimney. But this is chimney liner see here: www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/products/duraflue-316-904-grade-chimney-flue-liner
Gary Barlow?
floyd pitt
GARY BARLOW!!!!! HUGE 😂
Nice walk-through.. One sticking point for me is the 150mm from the back of the burner to the wall behind. Yours looks pretty close to the wall at the back?
Fantastic vid. Great sense of humour and a lovely laid back, easy going approach. God bless ya mate
Absolutely fantastic video he talks to you not like a smartass and shows how it is achievable for anyone
It doesn't look as hard as the experts make it sound! I'm just about to get a stove installed inside my Victorian cast iron fireplace. I was told you had to remove them but have since found out you don't.
I'm not advising anyone cut corners on regulations, but when was that chimney originally built? No government was around regulating fireplaces in my neck of the woods 75 or 100 years ago, their chimneys still work fine.
They may still work fine but unfortunately as modern practices came in such as sealing off open fireplaces, some chimneys started to degrade. On my house for example which was built in 1935 the fireplace opening was blocked when we moved in and I re-opened it. After having it swept and doing a smoke test, the stack was leaking in the loft. After inspection it was clear that when the chimney was blocked downstairs they sealed it in causing moisture to settle where the chimney stack is and it destroyed the mortar between the bricks causing a leak. If this was not spotted and fixed it could have been really dangerous.
How much should I expect to pay for an inspdction of a 2yr old fitting of flue & woodburner as I heard a massive crash and think the liner has also fallen. Many thanks
Just like to say thanks for putting video up. This saved me a small fortune as people wanted to charge the earth to do it for me. Took me a few hours but got it done. Thanks again. 👍
PS. not got the stove write up finished on the website just yet, but the flue installation is there.
Excellent tuition sir, easy to understand and enjoyable. thank you.
Great video so well explained.
Gonna give it go myself and save a small fortune 😊
I'm not alone here by saying you have a fantastic style and pace to your video.
Top marks top marks. 👌🏼
Thank you
Jono
Put stove in place cut reg plate etc , drop liner into room connect flue pipe etc then pull the flex up put stove in place drop flex back down and fit reg plate when thats finished go on roof and terminate liner and fit pot hanger , this is easier the trying to attach flue pipe half way up chimney
Just brilliant. I'm just about to connect up the flue liner and thought I'd check it out on You Tube. Really confident now. That idea to use a cement board instead of a metal plate is something I'll use in future.Thanks
This is so clear and informative. You held my attention, the video is spot on. We'll done,thanks a million, great job @
What a fantastic no nonsense video , thanks pal you are a diamond 💎, thanks for sharing all your information, you have given many diy ers confidence 👍
What a great video. I was thinking about getting it fitted but I'm now thinking I'm going to do it myself if it's that easy! Nice one "Cheers"
Loved the video, learnt something from the comment section to, you don't have and support installed like in your damage test, the board will fail if a brick hit from high enough with no support to dampen to impact. Still a good video 😉
How would I go about installing a stove into fireplace that has a concrete liner?
I removed a working open fireplace when I renovated my property but want to put a stove back in. Registered installers want to fit a stainless flue which I think could be overkill for my situation, especially if I can't get a liner down the existing flue.
As we seem to be late to the party, as in having a log burner in the house, what a great video. , thank you
No worries!
Brilliant and the sort of bloke I could have a pint with
excellent vid
very good video im off to find more of your stuff now, thanks
Great video, any suggestions for a collar that doesnt slide up the pipe?
My collar has a smaller rectanular hole that dosent allow me to slide it up as shown.
Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video. Can't afford one like, but one day ey. And Do I detect a lancashire accent? :)
Derbyshire ish,
Thanks! I was contemplating making my own register plate out of steel but would be a pain to cut and shape. Using cement fibre board is a much simpler solution. Unfortunately, I can't find hardiebacker board here in this country but they do have standard non-combustible cement board. What temperature rating would it need to have?
In the UK (European standard) it should be class A1 fire rated to be officially non combustible.
@@idostuffcouk Great thanks. I found some durlock board specifically designed for fireplaces.
So you sealed the rear brickwork, with a fire rate sealer is it possible to get a clear sealent as we have been advised in our area 50mm is minuium.I believe so steel closure in this area suburb of London.
A first class video
Didn't think ya could light the same day cause of fire cement?
I was told you need to fill the void with that gravel stuff?
Just in case you still keeping eye on this -thanks for very useful video
Cheers, knocking on for 10 yrs but it's still relevant.
Didn't know Gary Barlow fitter stoves....😆
Great vid cheers .
Keen on getting a wood burning stove fitted and got 3 quotes, £4000, £4500 & £5000!! Eh no!!
Floyd Pitt’s comment, albeit 3years ago, explained the function of a register plate and the function of a closure plate; essentially two different functions! There appears to be a great deal of confusion/debate as to what non combustible materials the plates can be made from ie metallic or non metallic material. Does anyone happen to know which, specific, Regulation/s (if any) refer to the properties of register plates and closure plates, please? The plate featured in this video is a closure plate, not a register plate. I am keen to determine if cement fibre board, similar to that used in the video, can be used for a register plate. Official/definitive answers would be much appreciated.
You used fire board but I have a steel plate that as fallen down how fo imput it back up.please.
Good video to give a general idea of a stove installation. However, if installing a 'closure' plate in England or Wales then it should be made from a minimum of '1.5mm corrosion resistant steel plate'.
Not if it's just keeping muck from falling down and heat from rising up. eg. when you have a flue liner.
there is a difference between 'closure' plate and 'register' plate.
I was a HETAS installer for many years. Being a member means inspections of installations. All my liner installations had Hardiebacker closure plates. Inspections always passed with flying colours. I asked Hetas multiple times about closure plates and the reply was always: as long as A1 fire rated. I asked an inspector who was inspecting my job if Hardiebacker was fine and he said that it passed because it was A1 fire rated. Even if a brick came down the chimney and broke the plate the flue liner contains the smoke and is not compromised. Aside from this Hetas has no jurisdiction over anybody except Hetas installers. Building Control is the boss outside of Hetas. Building Control is above Hetas.
Great video, held my attention all the way.👍
Does Gary Barlow really need to be fitting his own stove? Good video!👍
Great video, I've been following it to fit my stove, the only problem I have is trying to drill into the rock that has been used to build the house so I can fit the closure plate 😬
A good quality (sharp) masonry bit in a hammer drill should help. If you cant go in straight because the combination of big drill an bit is too big for the space you can go in at an angle.
@@idostuffcouk Unfortunately the rock kept shattering and I was only using a 4.5mm drill. In the end I opted to utilise the old metal frame to screw up into and then I'll mortar around the edges as per your guide to really secure it.
How do you connect the liner at the top of the chimney,
A register plate NEEDS to be steel. A CLOSURE plate is non combustible board.
Thanks Brian, I'll highlight that distinction in the future to avoid all the "it needs to be steel" comments.
Good install job. My only comment to make this install easier, would be the use of something they can a "slip joint." You can get a special section of pipe to slide anywhere from about 1-10 inches into a joining pipe. The use of this joint eliminates the need for precise cutting.
Agreed, a slip joint also makes it easier if the spigot on the stove is fixed internally.
Great video btw, very interesting
I just watched this whole video just because I like listening to you talk! Haha
register plate not closer plate .thank you for a real country style english expert
I see they charge for fitting so a DIY is the way to go.
I have one in my garage but where the pipe goes through the roof it always leaks..ive everything sealant wise can't seem to sort it
Very informative thankyou for this..
brilliant video, really easy to understand, covered everything we needed to know
Hi I'm hoping you can help with my project.
I am planning on installing the Volcano Plus fireplace insert into my existing masonry fireplace but I want to build out from the old firebox one foot along the whole wall so I can build new built-in bookshelves that the fireplace is flush with. How should I prepare the space for the insert in the areas where it is not set in the old firebox? Is it safe to use metal studs/cement board and firerated roxul to fill in the empty spaces?
The insert is Supreme Fireplaces Volcano Plus.
Thanks for your help,
James
Hi James, Sorry I can't offer specific advise. Building out, might be easier and more stable with masonry. Also consider the hearth and if the bookshelves are considered flammable if close to the insert or flue.
Err.
I’d hold back if I were; the UK’s poxy Government’s plans for abolishing this kind of stuff ain’t looking too good.
Never gonna happen: local enforcement is already non-existent. Half the people on my street are burning coal fires. Its a poor area - who's gonna go door to door telling people they can't be warm in their own homes? Start a riot in my neck of the woods that would.
Great video thankyou . I've just purchased a second hand stove. Exactly the same as this any ideas on the make and model so I can get a spares list etc please . Many thanks for you time
If I remember right it's a Town and Country Fires, Lttle Thurlow. Instructions can be downloaded from - www.townandcountryfires.co.uk/product/the-little-thurlow/
What wood burning stove is that?
No insulation poured down chimney ….?? Vermiculite
You want a lorry load to fill that chimney not actually practical to do that really with old open santa clause type chimney.
If the chimney is internal in most cases there will be no issues there is an insulated sleeve you can buy to slight over the flexibil flue liner for situations like there if needed
Absolutely brilliant no nonsense tutorial. 👏 👏👏
It doesn't matter what you think ....you have to use 1.5 galvanised steel for register plate in the Uk. Careful when you advise as it's not right . Really the steel plate should be attached with metal angle too. Sorry just telling you the Hetas facts.
He is not fitting a register plate. He is fitting a closure plate and a closure plate can be any non-combustible material. Hetas do not make the rules and only Hetas fitters have to follow Hetas rules. Building regs are what matter to anybody outside of Hetas. Having said that, when I was a Hetas installer a closure plate could still be any non-combustible material.
Great video! Thanks
4:14 the board was broken and another one cut later was shown in the video
And a great accent
Appen tha's not wrong.
I've been informed by the helpful people on the Hearth.com forum that in the U.S. to meet the "Code" the liner would need to be insulated. So the debate on that issue continues. Have read of the comments on the previous liner installation video and the full write up.
The thread to look for on hearth.com is Nice Install Video - UK
+iDoStuff In the U.K and Ireland the liners are twin wall....so may be the codes just tend to vary across the globe...www.fluesupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_99&products_id=1337
+malachy1847 Yes it needs to be twin wall, specified for solid fuel. In most stove installation it also needs to be 6". I would also use the 904 spec stainless, slightly more expensive but compared to the total cost of putting a stove in it's worth it in the long run.
thank you great video