DO NOT press bearing into knuckle by inner race or the bearing will fail in a couple thousand miles of driving. Press the bearing in by the OUTER RACE. The reason you dont want to press the bearing in by the inner race is when you put a socket on the inner race and push downward with 500lbs of force the inner bearing race pushes the bearings with 500lbs of force, and the bearings then push down the outer bearing race with 500lbs of force. The bearings get tiny little dents where they push against the edge of the races with 500lbs of force. The correct way is to push the outer race directly so your socket is pushing the outer race directly into the bore with ZERO pounds of force pushing against the bearings.
I was dreading doing this but to damn stubborn to pay someone to do it, ended up renting a master wheel hub being tool from Oreileys currently about to put it back together. Thank you for your video it's been my guidance.
I just bought my daughters car,, 2009 Lincoln MKX ,, which is the same as the Ford Edge. My first ever job that it needed was a front bearing. Your video was very helpful. Thanks for sharing....Canada.
Yeah she bought a newer Lincoln MKX 2013. I think she just wanted to help out her dad cause I bought it from her for a good price. My Honda accord gave out on me. I'm gonna miss it after 10 years. But I really like the MKX.
I would miss the Honda to, they are such good cars. I recommend Honda to my customers all the time. Ford and Lincoln have come a long way and I think you will be happy with MKX. Thanks again for writing to me.
@@HowtoAutomotive They will both like their MKX until the water pump fails and fills the bottom end of the engine with water. Brilliant design. $2500 job including the long timing chain and all the tensioners, gaskets, oil change etc. Then cross your fingers that it didn't run long enough with that much water and antifreeze in the oil to screw up any of the bearings etc. And then change the oil again in 50 to 100 miles after its filtered out more stuff, just to be sure.
Pressing the bearing in by the inner race with a socket is not good practice. I believe it should be on the outer ring not inner race. This bearing may have been damaged and could prematurely fail.
Make sure as he says, when pressing the hub into the bearing, to support the inner bearing race, NOT THE HOUSING/SPINDLE. If you don't you REALLY stand a chance of pressing the lower inner race down and out of the bearing assy. I almost ruined my new bearing by supporting the housing, and when I checked the hub, it would wobble and go in and out. I was thinking that I have a defective bearing, but then remembered that he said support the inner race, that will press it all together correctly.
Was wondering if you can take the bolts that hold the spindle to the strut before having the ball joint off if you were having trouble with the ball joint coming all the way out
I have a question. What was the reason behind changing the BEARING? I am asking because I have a 2011 that is piping passenger side but I think it's a BRAKE issue the driver thinks it's the BEARING. I see no PLAY at all
So I thought everything was going great but upon pressing the hub back in I heard a pop and the bearing and hub is flopping around. I thought I had good support on the back side of the bearing but I don’t know what happened. Is the bearing trashed at this point?
Hi tyrone here. Can you please tell me the front driver side wheel hub bearing kit info to purchase. I will need it for doing the 2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD SUV Front Left side as well. I have the info for ordering Front Right side...thank you.
203 ft lbs for axle nut, I found another place that recommended 130, and another that only recommended 98..... I figured it should have been 180-200, and really worried about this.
Tom Wilson I got my information from ALLDATA. I'll double check it with Mitchell on demand and see which one is more accurate. Thank you for pointing this out.
I have a 2008 Edge that recently had front axle replaced. It now clicks terribly on tight left turns. Do you think this might be because the axle nut was not replaced correctly ( insifficient torque) causing the bearing to wear? We have since had the mechanic look at it several times and replace the axle again. Noise is still there. I'm thinking that he messed up the bearing, or that the bearing was on its last legs...thoughts? Thank you for a great video BTW!
Hello. I do think it's possibly related to the previous repair if the noise was not there before. If the bearing is left loose it'll definitely prematurely wear out the bearing. But for me to say 100% Out seeing the car would be a little hard. There is always a possibility it something else. Thank you so much for watching the videos and writing to me!! Hope this helps.
@@10TPOPR would depend on make model year. But you can physically examine it for breaks or cracks, and if you don't see any, you can examine the bushing to make sure it's still in place and not cracked apart.
I can not for the life of my get it to separate from the lower ball joint. Been using a pry bar, brute strength, and oil to no avail. I have everything else disconnected (I know not the order of the video). I'm thinking maybe I don't have it jacked up high enough. Someone please help.
He uses a strange way with the pry bar. Take the bolts out of the strut/knuckle connection, and use a deadblow hammer to remove the lower ball joint. Always the way we've done it, but to each their own
Nawlins productions I use a source called Alldata it's a subscription-based service that supplies automotive specifications and information. I can double check the specs when I get back to the shop on Monday but I am pretty sure that that they are right.
I cannot pry the lower ball joint loose. It’s lose and it moves, but the control arm just won’t pry lower. Looks like the sway bay links are preventing it. But your removal had the sway bar still connected. Please help
Lol you didn't show any of the hammer strikes or the removal of snap ring or insulation I've done plenty of these ford bearings, and I know why because your video would have been a 10-hour video
cody collier after taking the tire right off turn the wheel fully to one side. Spray it with PB blaster or WD-40 penetrating lubricant. And hit the end of the spindle like you did on the tie rod and that should jar it free. Then use long prybar and pry control arm down.
DO NOT press bearing into knuckle by inner race or the bearing will fail in a couple thousand miles of driving. Press the bearing in by the OUTER RACE. The reason you dont want to press the bearing in by the inner race is when you put a socket on the inner race and push downward with 500lbs of force the inner bearing race pushes the bearings with 500lbs of force, and the bearings then push down the outer bearing race with 500lbs of force. The bearings get tiny little dents where they push against the edge of the races with 500lbs of force. The correct way is to push the outer race directly so your socket is pushing the outer race directly into the bore with ZERO pounds of force pushing against the bearings.
Been working on cars over 40yrs my let me start by saying nicely done ..great video .hard to find great guys like you ..5🌟⭐️⭐️⭐️🌠
I was dreading doing this but to damn stubborn to pay someone to do it, ended up renting a master wheel hub being tool from Oreileys currently about to put it back together. Thank you for your video it's been my guidance.
Ben Rodriguez It is a chore of a job. Glad the videos helpful thank you for watching!
I just bought my daughters car,, 2009 Lincoln MKX ,, which is the same as the Ford Edge. My first ever job that it needed was a front bearing. Your video was very helpful. Thanks for sharing....Canada.
Thank you very much for the nice words !! I'm glad I could help out. Your daughter must be stoked on having a nice car like that.
Yeah she bought a newer Lincoln MKX 2013.
I think she just wanted to help out her dad cause I bought it from her for a good price. My Honda accord gave out on me. I'm gonna miss it after 10 years. But I really like the MKX.
I would miss the Honda to, they are such good cars. I recommend Honda to my customers all the time. Ford and Lincoln have come a long way and I think you will be happy with MKX. Thanks again for writing to me.
@@HowtoAutomotive They will both like their MKX until the water pump fails and fills the bottom end of the engine with water. Brilliant design. $2500 job including the long timing chain and all the tensioners, gaskets, oil change etc. Then cross your fingers that it didn't run long enough with that much water and antifreeze in the oil to screw up any of the bearings etc. And then change the oil again in 50 to 100 miles after its filtered out more stuff, just to be sure.
Pressing the bearing in by the inner race with a socket is not good practice. I believe it should be on the outer ring not inner race. This bearing may have been damaged and could prematurely fail.
Nik Waters true I always use the old bearing as the installer or my otc one 👍
Yup seen that little mistake
It’s a bad bearing thoe rite
Good catch. There are very high chances to damage the new bearing.
Great step by step but seeing how each step was performed would be informative.
Great job on the video my friend finally someone I can follow along with Thank You !
Very helpful and simple without a lot of extra talk saying nothing. Good job.
Make sure as he says, when pressing the hub into the bearing, to support the inner bearing race, NOT THE HOUSING/SPINDLE. If you don't you REALLY stand a chance of pressing the lower inner race down and out of the bearing assy. I almost ruined my new bearing by supporting the housing, and when I checked the hub, it would wobble and go in and out. I was thinking that I have a defective bearing, but then remembered that he said support the inner race, that will press it all together correctly.
Was wondering if you can take the bolts that hold the spindle to the strut before having the ball joint off if you were having trouble with the ball joint coming all the way out
There are some cool bearing removal and installer tools on ebay or amazon to do this job with out removing the knuckle from the vehicule.
But you do have to disconnect the lower ball joint to get the axle out of the way.
Yup.would saved him an hour and alignment issues
I have a question. What was the reason behind changing the BEARING? I am asking because I have a 2011 that is piping passenger side but I think it's a BRAKE issue the driver thinks it's the BEARING. I see no PLAY at all
So I thought everything was going great but upon pressing the hub back in I heard a pop and the bearing and hub is flopping around. I thought I had good support on the back side of the bearing but I don’t know what happened. Is the bearing trashed at this point?
Do you have a video for the rear wheel bearing replacement on the same 2008 ford edge?
Israel Dominguez I have not run across when yet as soon as I do I will film it though. Thank you for watching!
Do you need to grease anything in reassembly
This the all wheel drive or front wheel drive?
Great video, definitely helped me with this job!
Can you tell me what size the axle nut is
34 or 36 mm don't remember.
36mm on my 2010 edge
36mm on my 2008 edge
I had 35mm on my MKZ
is the 2016 edge the same? I have to do my edge.
Nice video thanks
Andrew Sands glad to help. Thank you for watching and writing!
great..job...I do it ..easy thanks ..a lot
José Robles glad to help. Thank you for watching
Those top bolts that connect aren’t cam eccentric because they aren’t adjustable some cars can be this isn’t one of them
anyone have a list of size of tools needed to do this?
How much would it cost to repair the wheel bearing and hub at a shop?
Hi tyrone here. Can you please tell me the front driver side wheel hub bearing kit info to purchase. I will need it for doing the 2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD SUV Front Left side as well. I have the info for ordering Front Right side...thank you.
my gosh a lot of work...what would that cost , i need new wheel bearing on left front.
203 ft lbs for axle nut, I found another place that recommended 130, and another that only recommended 98.....
I figured it should have been 180-200, and really worried about this.
Kenny Coulter I get my information from a source called ALLDATA. It provides manufacture specifications for independent auto repair shops.
Thank you for such a quick reply.
Other sources I've seen spec 258LbFt for Edge Axle Nuts, is this reduced 30% to 203LbFt when using LocTite?
im finding the same torque value as nawlins did. 258 ft lbs?
Tom Wilson I got my information from ALLDATA. I'll double check it with Mitchell on demand and see which one is more accurate. Thank you for pointing this out.
this info is for the 2013 edge according to federal bearings and im not sure of the other. Thanks
I have a 2008 Edge that recently had front axle replaced. It now clicks terribly on tight left turns. Do you think this might be because the axle nut was not replaced correctly ( insifficient torque) causing the bearing to wear? We have since had the mechanic look at it several times and replace the axle again. Noise is still there. I'm thinking that he messed up the bearing, or that the bearing was on its last legs...thoughts?
Thank you for a great video BTW!
Hello. I do think it's possibly related to the previous repair if the noise was not there before. If the bearing is left loose it'll definitely prematurely wear out the bearing. But for me to say 100% Out seeing the car would be a little hard. There is always a possibility it something else. Thank you so much for watching the videos and writing to me!! Hope this helps.
Clicking is CV axle
Ever since i replace hub and bearings, while turning or going over small bumps i hear clanking. Did i do something wrong???
yes
Yep. Prolly the control arm clunking around.
@@PathMaker I have the same problem. How do you check for this?
@@10TPOPR would depend on make model year. But you can physically examine it for breaks or cracks, and if you don't see any, you can examine the bushing to make sure it's still in place and not cracked apart.
Yep, can't do that at home. Still great video tho
I can not for the life of my get it to separate from the lower ball joint. Been using a pry bar, brute strength, and oil to no avail. I have everything else disconnected (I know not the order of the video). I'm thinking maybe I don't have it jacked up high enough. Someone please help.
He uses a strange way with the pry bar. Take the bolts out of the strut/knuckle connection, and use a deadblow hammer to remove the lower ball joint. Always the way we've done it, but to each their own
take your scissor jack out of the trunk, use that. or use a small bottle jack and scrap plywood to press uniformly. And also pry, if needed.
What is the size of the axle nut
36mm
Man im getting a 258ft lbs torque calling for my 2009 mkx. I checked online thats all i seen, research that for me
Nawlins productions I use a source called Alldata it's a subscription-based service that supplies automotive specifications and information. I can double check the specs when I get back to the shop on Monday but I am pretty sure that that they are right.
I cannot pry the lower ball joint loose. It’s lose and it moves, but the control arm just won’t pry lower. Looks like the sway bay links are preventing it. But your removal had the sway bar still connected. Please help
You did good until you went to finish pressing wheel bearing in for snap ring clearance
5:00
Lol you didn't show any of the hammer strikes or the removal of snap ring or insulation I've done plenty of these ford bearings, and I know why because your video would have been a 10-hour video
I can't get the ball joint out it's really stuck in there how do I get it out
cody collier after taking the tire right off turn the wheel fully to one side. Spray it with PB blaster or WD-40 penetrating lubricant. And hit the end of the spindle like you did on the tie rod and that should jar it free. Then use long prybar and pry control arm down.
How to Automotive thanks I will try it in a few minutes
and if I have any more questions can I just comment on here again? Thank you
cody collier of course it's my pleasure to help.
I have a press that I'm trying to use to get the hub out but it won't come out and I don't have a vice grip is there any other way I can remove it
You coulda just done it on car and saved an hour bud
Is this for a 2009 Lincoln MKS as well?