I would have used my multimeter to check continuity through all of those switches to the motor. Likely some of the interlocks are on the hot side of the line, but there may be one opening the neutral side of the line as well. It appears the side interlock switch needs a nut on the switch. If all else fails, put a cheater cord directly to the moror from a wall outlet to make sure the motor is operational.
@@Awannabestylist I didn’t need the multimeter as it was pretty obvious to me that the switch missing the nut was the most likely culprit, as it had a zip tie wrapped around the wire and it wasn’t mounted in the frame. It ran fine but was missing a spring and in desperate need of a new cutter wheel and some basic maintenance and adjustments. Now this thing works great. There is a second video on this machine installing the new cutting wheel and completing the restoration. It has been a good addition to my shop. Thanks for the comment.
I would have used my multimeter to check continuity through all of those switches to the motor. Likely some of the interlocks are on the hot side of the line, but there may be one opening the neutral side of the line as well. It appears the side interlock switch needs a nut on the switch. If all else fails, put a cheater cord directly to the moror from a wall outlet to make sure the motor is operational.
@@Awannabestylist I didn’t need the multimeter as it was pretty obvious to me that the switch missing the nut was the most likely culprit, as it had a zip tie wrapped around the wire and it wasn’t mounted in the frame. It ran fine but was missing a spring and in desperate need of a new cutter wheel and some basic maintenance and adjustments. Now this thing works great. There is a second video on this machine installing the new cutting wheel and completing the restoration. It has been a good addition to my shop. Thanks for the comment.