30 Years as a Bespoke Tailor | Thomas Mahon Shares Some of His Best Stories
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- Legendary suitmaker Thomas Mahon talks with Kirby about his career as a tailor and his methods for adapting to different working styles across Savile Row.
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30 Years as a Bespoke Tailor | Thomas Mahon Shares Some of His Best Stories
00:00 Introduction
01:02 Stories From The Old Days On The Row
08:58 The Business Side
15:34 Shop Etiquette & Dress Code
19:48 The Old Temperament Vs.The New
25:03 New Shop, New Cutting Style
36:13 The Evolution Of Tom's Style
46:22 The Social Effect Of A Bespoke Suit
47:24 In The Cutting Room
1:07:18 Thirsty Work
WHAT IS KIRBY WEARING
Sovereign Grade Orange Daisy Spring Madder Buff Tie bit.ly/3nKI8uI
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Beautiful suit on Thomas, there's something about a three piece that just screams class. Thomas zooming around the pattern talking to himself and making mental calculations with Kirby and the crew in his space like they weren't even there. Explaining something to Kirby one second then a quick glance and oh there's too much drape in the chest. A quick couple of curves and lines struck and it's fixed, simple as that. Really simple if you are a highly skilled tradesman who's been at it for over 35 years, just lines on paper to us mere mortals. Another great long video where interest never wanes, well done again Kirby.
Can’t get enough of Thomas Mahon. Thank you for not interrupting and just letting him speak, he has so much to teach us.
Having watched his English Drape Cut over and over, and kept learning something new every time, I just love all Tom does! In this video, Tom showcased the underrated class and humility while being highly knowledgeable!! Starting with that beautiful gray PoW 3-piece suit, my goodness the beauty is just overflown! His comments and recollection of his time with the OG Redmayne, then apprenticeship with AS again show his passion and humility for the trade.
Of course, we don't have to talk about how smooth he is with drafting and cutting the pattern. It takes a master to teach and do at the same time!
Tom Mahon is a real master of the craft; one of my favourite interviews, thanks Kirby.
Kirby, this is possibly the best tailoring video I have ever seen. This and the Kent & Haste one. Letting these guys talk, explain, tell stories etc is an absolute pleasure. I like how you only interrupt when you need to these days - I thought some of your earlier videos were a bit too staccato. What superb advertising for quality bespoke tailoring. Keep up the good work.
Kirby you should definitely visit Andrew Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell. Wonderful speaker and educator about the art of tailoring.
Andrew educates his shop very much closed to new clients without a referral from an existing club member.
Andrew is also a great teacher... having founded a tailors academy on Saville Row.
I'm glad you interviewed Mr. Mahone. He is such an excellent story teller. I really enjoy the videos he posts to you tube at Savile Row Tales.
What an absolute delight! Can't think of a better way to spend a miserable Saturday afternoon, than in the company of these two consumate gentlemen.
Thomas' stories and rememberances are great. I really want him to make me a suit now!
An expert tradesman who can speak so well about his skill and his industry. Excellent interview.
Excellent interview! Thomas Mahon's history in the trade is special and he's quite articulate. Really fascinating.
Tom is a great person. He has something for all people at all levels. His suit copying is a good start for their beginning suit or MTM
Great segment. Mr. Mahon is a true gentleman. Thomas has a great Prince of Wales cloth for his suit.
There are quite a few things I do enjoy about this episode - the alluring rich history Thomas shares which draws one's keen attention, actual craftsmanship on display with his chalk patternmaking, and then a most leisurely ending with some beer.
I must say the flow of the video (not to mention the big pay off from your great investment in these fantastic HD lenses) and your unobtrusive way of interviewing yield top notch results by letting these masters speak for themselves. This and your recent video with Dominic Casey make me very happy to see that you and the team are just getting better and better at what you guys do. Cheers!
Kirby you have done it again by making one of the most interesting videos on suits of all time. Hopefully you will order a Saville row suit and let us see the full process of your suit would be fascinating.
Kirby, IMO this is one of your best interviews; Thomas is so natural and straight forward. Loved it!
As an avid sewist who is continually building my skills, a lifelong journey... I absolutely LOVED this video with all the insider shop talk, and some tips and know how of how things are approached and done v.s. manufactured clothing, which in today's market hold's it own too because technology has advanced so much. but the art of sewing, tailoring, fitting, draping, etc, this is something we want to preserve in a useful busines way, not just an artisan feature, and videos like this help that so much. I love the construction and planning of sewing as much as the finished project, ... more sometimes really..... I really enjoy your channel and videos. Thanks so much for sharing! And special thanks to Thomas Mahon for sharing with us all!
I’m just amazed at the skill levels of these tailors that you know and interview. I’m a firm believer that everyone should have a custom tailored suit. So they can enjoy the craft ,skill, and quality that goes with it. Not the mass manufacturing of clothing. Once again Thank you for another amazing video
Wonderful insight into the history of the art. I could sit in the background listening to these tales all day.
As a fellow Cumbrian the 'now then' at 1:02:13 is joyous
Dear Mr. Allison
Thank you for another stellar video. You are creating an archive of these great tailors that will live on for generations. You are spot lighting these craftsman probably better than they do so themselves. I have looked through out the internet for information on the world of bespoke tailoring and craftsmanship, and there is nothing else out there that compares to what you are doing. Keep up the great work and I will do my part to support your channel. Thank you! Steve
Steven you are very kind! It is certainly an enjoyable job documenting the work of these incredible craftspeople. Keep in touch with what videos you enjoy!
Thirsty work, thirsty work. LOL Mr. Mahon is as real as it gets. Loved this one!
Kirby - this channel is a true cultural delight! Thank you once again for providing this amazing content.
Glad you enjoy it Chris!
Magnificent video Kirby! For those of us who can’t afford a bespoke suit this down yo earth video was awesome! Your quest is a true gentleman to acknowledge his fellow tradesman! Really enjoyed this video ! One of your very best! By the way greetings from the state of Kentucky! Home of the bourbon
Amazing to watch, the skill level of Thomas was definitely shown in this episode. Fantastic episode again, and the best bit, was at the end popping over the road for a pint. I did note however that it wasn't a bitter this time.
Very enjoyable video : the gentle charm of a true professional. And the conversation just flowed, showing how much Kirby’s interview style has progressed.
What brilliant stories! Thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish.
Glad you enjoyed it!
What an absolutely sublime piece of video content. Mr. Mahon has certainly got the gift of the gab; teriffic storyteller. One of my greatest aspirations in this life is to commission several garmets and shoes made from the row. Kirby, thank you for all your efforts and passion to bring attention to and celebrate this magnificent craft. I could never afford a trip to Saville Row while I was putting myself through University in England but plan to return for a very expensive visit in the next couple of years and thanks to Kirby I have a much better understanding of each house style. I will also be making a point of stopping by Davidoff store too.
Can't get enough of watching the BEST bespoke suit makers in Europe. Thomas, you are one of the best in the world. I may not afford a bespoke $5,000 suit, but it's worth watching these videos. $2,000 is my price range and for a bespoke suit. Thank you Kirby Allison
THIS IS WHAT AMAZING CONTENT IS PEOPLE. THE HISTORY OF THE CRAFT AND ART I LOVE.
Great interview! One of the nicest characters in the trade
This is beautiful - Thank you Kirby!
At 10:18. The unpaid accounts was common at many firms on the Row. Winston Churchill apparently ordered at one time a huge amount of clothing from Henry Poole, had it delivered, and never paid the bill. The thought was during the 1930s many people, Churchill included, had lost money in the stock market crash. They simply could not pay the bill at the time until things improved financially.
once again, brillaint, educational and entertaining. thank you
My favorite video on this channel to date. Great work
Would love to see a video with Tom and Steven Hitchcock talking about their changes over the years, comparing and contrasting.
Great content!1 Really enjoyed this interview
A really good video. All the chat set the culture up. The hilarious thing was the speed of draughting, all the build up and 10 mins later it’s all done. A master at work and Thomas was inspirational too…….!!!
A great interview; entertaining and informative.
I really enjoyed your interview with Thomas.
This was great Kirby. Could you consider doing this with Leonard Logsdail? He’s and Englishman based in New York, made suits for movies like The Wolf of Wall Street, American Gangster and others, I think he would be great to interview. Thanks
Nice cutter.
Such a treat!
Such a brilliant video and such a great style. If I am ever able to afford a bespoke suit, I want Thomas to make it. Thanks Kirby.
A wonderful video. So informative and historically interesting.
Your best video Mr Allison. Thank you
I love it. I'm tailor , but learned from my sister, my co-worker, and self taught to sew. Right now I do more alterations , as my business . So for me, it very interesting videos. I'm still learning more about suits from this videos . Thank you.
I believe when Thomas said “Welcome to the masons…” he was referring to the pub there in Wigton, but it raises the question: Is Kirby a mason?
The 1000th view comes from me Kirby. Keep up the good work.
Amazing presentation. Thank you.
Thomas is a champion story teller! Really enjoyed this one!
The telescoping of sartorial dos and donts, from one generation of craftspeople to the next, is so true. I used to work in NYC"s fustiest store, and that was especially true, even at the Salesperson level. Alas, no more.
Oh wow, i can't believe you know him and you met him. I was about to ask you few weeks ago to meet this tailor, but i didn't know you already know him.
Great Video!
What a great video with some great stories…and what an amazing Glen plaid suit (and your navy Alan Flusser looks great too Kirby) - more videos like this please 👍
You could set your watch by John Reed and Ravi Tailor sitting down for their lunchtime pints in the Windmill!
Ravi Tailor actually made the stroller you see me wearing in many of our videos. Great man and exceptional tailor.
@@kirbyallison Hah! He really is a Don! A suit for the ‘tropics’? Go and see Ravi - he’s the best at lightweight fabrics/tailoring.
Fantastic brilliant skills
I have enjoyed this interview
Glorious. Only one comment - I see Tom was having a lager. You should have said "A pint of bitter for the boy" to the barman!
I loved this interview, and I would love an interview with one of salesman!
Three-roll-to-two (3/2) is the way to go. Spot on. Very Old School, actually. The "soft roll to the second button." Calls to mind some of vintage Chipp.
As a non professional sewer, I immensely enjoyed Tom's tutorial for drafting a bespoke pattern. One question: the beautiful vintage scissors Tom uses, would he use these same scissors to cut the fabric as well. I learned early on that to never use a fabric scissors for anything else. Also, the repeats of the chalk markings - is Tom cutting at the outer edge of the markings or middle? I am totally in love with your interviews, Kirby. You hit every nerve of detail that I would be interested in learning myself. Yes. I do believe you have an innate intuition regarding all things beautifully made. Thank you. p.s. I gave you a pass on the "housewife you can't take out on a date" joke lol
From what I've read about Savile Row cutters - at some point they would retire their shears and use them for pattern cutting from then on, while having a separate pair for fabric (or cloth as some old schoolers would say) cutting.
I started work in 1991 - watching makes me realise how time has moved on, but I am in the shape of my life and feel 25. Back in those days in the City of London, we drank a lot and there were real characters.
Good for you. I feel knackered! Thanks for watching, Best,
Tom.
@@savilerowtales Don’t know about that - you and I must be similar ages and I was thinking what a good head of hair you’ve still got (bet it’s not dyed either…?)
Three roll two jackets have been worn (in the US at least) since the beginning of the 20th Century. The popular story is that it was a result of fashions changing from three to two-button jackets. Students couldn't afford to buy new jackets, so the pressed them into a two-button configuration, creating the three roll two. Don't know whether that story is true or not, but the style has been around for quite a while!
great series.
lol that timestamp
“Tailors’ being tailors we got about four pubs.”
That made me laugh
He is wearing a lovely Prince of Wales check suit i cannot tell via my monitor it may have a light blue over check going through it. I believe his House style is a top coat with a 3 button roll you can see this in his jacket. The top button hole is placed inside the roll of the lapel.
These videos and interviews are SO fascinating. Please keep them up.
Kirby, if I may suggest something (and quite unprompted, so please forgive my intrusion) you dress impeccably, but with your very slight frame and sloped shoulders, narrow neck and youthful face, you look a little ‘brand new’. A longer gentleman’s haircut in the back, perhaps a whisper less neatly styled, with a more padded shoulder to the coat (and more drape to the chest and upper sleeve), big bellied lapels, a longer shirt collar point and not semi-spread, and perhaps an overall looser trouser, would give your appearance a more relaxed but very traditional feel with perhaps an element of greater maturity and relaxation in such fine suits. It could help to inflate your figure with fullness in the masculine manner.
I should say i am very envious of your trim figure, but I just thought I would weigh in on how you could build upon it more successfully and give a greater air of substance and physicality, in keeping with your passion for the trade. I suspect Thomas Mahon or the fine tailors at Anderson’s would be who to go to.
Keep up the excellent work, my friend.
22:17 Astute commentary by Mr Allison
I went to the Mason's Arms on Saturday!
All wonderful suit on Thomas.
This has made me feel very old.
Not old, just experienced ;-)
I wish so badly that there was a tailor close by that would take me under his wing and teach me all he knows, and that I could work for him while I learn to earn a living in the meantime. I want so badly to learn this art form. I don’t have the cash to pay the fees that they ask for to learn from them. And it’s harder to find info on tailoring suits online than it is to find nuclear bomb schematics. That’s insane! I can learn to build a nuclear reactor, or a machine gun, but I can’t find out how to tailor a jacket.
@thomas mahon The girlfriend you were referring at 5.01min to, is my current girlfriend and is still talking with high regards of you 😊
ToonPR...Your'e a lucky man and she's a cracking lady. Also smart enough to get rid of me and find better ;) Thanks for watching. Best,
Tom.
This was my first question regarding the gym, what can be done form the outset?
I look forward to a Redmayne suit for Kirby one day made by Tom
Saya indonesia tailor pemula gak komentar .mau tanya gimana memadukan motif kotak2 antara badan dan tangan jas. Trimakasih !
Where can I get a pair of shears like yours
You should go full "UA-cam" and shout out Thomas Mahon's UA-cam channel.
hello mister thomas i am from brazil i see that the art of tailoring has not evolved over time tailors still continue to do like 200 ago i like tradition and good customs thinking about this an old brazilian tailor developed a system of direct base cut already with the actual measurements on the fabric and not modeling it he said it was time wasted duplicate work I have the book with this method in Portuguese of course thanks for the material explained despite not understanding the language
Lol someone messed up "List time stamps here with titles this is an example only do not copy and paste"
Kirby, I’d like to fly to London for my first bespoke suit and first bespoke pair of shoes. If you were me, where would you go for those two items?
Loads of choices! Watch our videos and decide on what you think fits you best!
@@kirbyallison Seems you need to be referred. How does one get that first appointment?
Those threads of fabrics are really made of human stories...
TIMESTAMPS!
Never go out without a coat....that statement
I do admire these craftsmen but the prices of all bespoke garments are absolutely ridiculous..... You can look exceptionally well turned out for £500 these guys who wear bespoke have far far to much money to spend...... You'll get a beautiful pair of Oxfords for under £100.... Lovely off the peg suit £350..... Good quality shirt £50..... That's leaves £50 for quality underwear and hosiery and a nice tie.... I guarantee you'll look exceptionally smart......
Please Kirby, do something about the tail of your Tie....it is longer than the face.
What kind of beer is this? It's almost transparent.
It looks like cider to me.
Head cutters don't cut heads; they cut suits.
This is great but... the tailor doesn't have collar stays? HIs right collar at least is all curled up.
what are they drinking ? looks like some posh stuff
Not even nice suits can stop the gain train :)
Hello sir my name is MD Nasem I need this tailoring job your can you help me tailoring job
Kirby your tie isn't tied properly it's sloppy for someone who's pushing the gentleman look.
@Captainzilla418 if you look properly it's not the knot it's longer at the back than the front.
Afraid not it's a no no and Kirby knows it
Please educate me on the length of your tie. To the untrained eye, yours appears to be quite catawampus.
"To good health"
"....for the masons"
Honk
Why can you not even set at a tie?
You're a terrible example of how money and opportunity doesn't necessarily result in a classy look.
This is bizarre. Tom's younger than I am. He's talking about the eighties and nineties. Old man Oldbury sounds like the typical snob servant class from the Edwardian era. Good riddance to those guys. Thank heavens these days Tom is typical.