No Start Testing Basics - Spark, Injector Pulse and Fuel Pressure (Hyundai Santa Fe)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- The procedures shown in this video can be applied to all cars! First we test for spark, then injector pulse before finally focusing on the fuel pump and related circuitry. The vehicle being tested is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
Great job master!
Thanks Eric! But I'm no master, just having some fun with my boy :-)
Nice to see somebody dedicated to their work, very nice job.
Eric, you are too nice. You make everything simpler in your videos. You are a MASTER Mechanic. He was using expensive equipment, when he can be using a spark checker, volt meter and a light.
Would love to see a video with Paul and Eric O!
Boxers or briefs?
Reminds me of my auto mechanic teacher back in the 80's(race car driver Arnie Knepper), he would not show us or let us take shortcuts until we first learned how to thoroughly diagnose and repair the problem. His reasoning was for us to understand what we do so we're not lost when the shortcuts don't work. A very valuable lesson Paul. Thanks for sharing.
ScannerDanner I want to thank you again for your videos, because I have learned a lot from you about testing circuits. About a month and a half ago I started having intermittent no crank no start issues. At that time I replaced an ignition switch after watching one of your videos, unfortunately that wasn't the issue. But your video started me on the journey that kept pushing me to try and solve the mystery. Your videos are the most detailed even to me who never held a volt meter or a test light in my life. After changing the ignition switch and realizing that it was not the problem I started focusing on your videos. I learned more and more every day. My intermittent no crank no start persisted. Once a week, twice a week, my car left me stranded. Today I finally solved it. It was a single partially broken wire from battery to pcm. One day I realized whenever I had no crank I also had no check engine light. And that started me on the path of working up the courage to actually dig in deeper under the hood. Unfortunately mechanics throw parts at vehicles without even turning on any of the basic tools that you teach us how to use. And they are really not that hard to use. Especially for someone who is supposedly schooled to use them for trouble shooting. When I realized that my check engine light was gone and there was a very good possibility that it was pcm related I didn't even want to go near a mechanic. For a simple reason, because just like how they changed my starter at the beginning when this problem started without even testing the circuits, or fuses, I was afraid they would do the same thing with the pcm. So I kept watching your videos. And I found a single red/white wire that had a tiny little hole on the plastic and as I jiggled it it had white powder like substance (corroded away wire) falling out of it. I split the wire touched it together, check engine light appeared. I also had a random stall problem too. So turns out this very same wire was causing that too. I started the car up and while running I pulled the wire apart. And it stalled instantly. I recreated both issues to make sure that wire was both capable of causing the no crank no check engine light,and the stalling as well. My point is that I really appreciate your videos because you most likely saved me from wasting money on parts I never even needed in the first place. Money that I don't have much to waste to begin with. Having an unreliable vehicle is very stressful. And you help those of us who don't have the means to just replace everything until we find the actual problem. I'm really very grateful and I wanted to share my unfortunate and prolonged story, and thank the person who's online guidance helped me to finally fix it. Thanks for your videos, they are very educational, and helpful.
Does my heart so good man. God bless you brother. Thank you for encouraging me. Your timing is ordained. You have no idea
Way to go for figuring out that a small corroded wire was causing all your issues. That is a serious challenge. I can relate to this post, often times I forget that I can in fact accomplish anything that I put my mind to. Sometimes it takes persistence and courage.
@alexsafri2285 Just curious. Did your radiator fan turn on when your PCM lost power?
been a tech 23 years & still learn from you danner. Thanks for rhat... Jason h
Jason Havers there's too much to know in automotive and it keeps increases each year. problem is the respect and pay for us techs. $40-50 an hour !
You’ve really influenced my trouble shooting aptitude definitely for the better. I spend less time diagnosing and not easily sidetracked.
It’s really nice to not be a “parts changer”.
Your service is appreciated.
Oh man. You’re definitely far beyond just car technician. You could elaborate complicated diagnostic issue into a piece of cake one with your systematic and easy to follow procedures. You’re a legend. Thanks alot. Hello from far far away fan in Indonesia.
Thanks so much Alimin Waloyo!
❤❤❤❤❤شكرا استاذه
I also do agree with this
Love your process… if you beat 36:38 on the tank, you might actually cause a bad ground to get good enough to make the pump run and it wouldn’t be a bad pump. It may just be a bad ground and it will show up again later if maybe the tank itself was not grounded or wherever it grounds to .
At 30:00 to 40:00 , and again from 49:00 to the end, this is far and away the clearest, most concise explanation of the use of the AES Wave uActivate I have seen ANYWHERE on YT or the elsewhere on the internet. Both with and without the use of a scope and amp clamp. AES should stitch these two segments together just to show the tools versatility, and with proper knowledge to back its use up, also add speed to the diagnostic process. I love mine, and am shocked by many who bought it (incl the older version) and whom have never used it, or are maddingly, blindly unaware of its capabilities. Of course, one must have a full and clear understanding of automotive electrical theory to put it to its best use, and also not misuse it, or you could seriously damage components (similar to weaponizing a Power Probe if you don't know what you are doing) by sticking other tools into the banana jacks (doubling as test ports), like for example a Power Probe or test light into the wrong ports. Sure, if you've been around for awhile you probably can already do the same with a multimeter, test light and a fused jumper, like a lot have been doing. But for someone who hasn't, and is trying to speed up the diagnostic process, this works very well. Well done, sir.
50:56 end of story... Blimey. If you could be Dr. during Covid 19, I bet many lives could be saved. That car was due to be sent to junk yard! Here it is. Another happier customer.
Danner when I get a chance to get out and travel.im going to come y'all's way and buy you and your family a lunch .. I have learned so much from your videos I feel I need to buy your family a big dinner on me .
I love your videos, and this one is no exception. However, only chlorinated brake cleaner makes nasty vapors when it burns. The chlorine is what makes the phosgene gas. Non chlorinated brake cleaner is perfectly fine to use as a starting fluid since it contains no chlorine, and therefore can not make phosgene gas. I use it as starting fluid all the time. Just so you know.
The lesson here seems to be: check the label your brake parts cleaner. Some are not chlorinated, so they can't form phosgene (which of course doesn't mean they are completely safe - just that it doesn't produce that particular gas.) And from a cursory bit of research, it seems that high heat and/or intense UV radiation are most likely to cause chlorinated cleaners to decompose into phosgene, so _definitely_ don't use chlorinated brake cleaner to prep parts before welding!
I usually use carb/choke cleaner as a fuel source. I only used brake cleaner once, a few years ago. Nearly killed myself.
My local store carries "chlorinated" and "non-chlorinated" brake fuel. I was out of carb clean the day I was doing my fuel test.
So I grabbed the closest can of brake cleaner off my workshelf, which I had previously purchased, which turned out to be the "chlorinated" version. I don't remember my thought process when I bought it, I think I just chose at random, but I won't do so again.
I sprayed some brake clean into the intake and sat down in the front seat and cranked the engine. Immediate start. 2 seconds later, (with the car door and window open) I was choking harder than I ever have in my life. I could not breath AT ALL.
I knew in less than a fraction of a second there was something wrong. My brain said "poison" and I jumped out of the care and I sprinted as fast as I could---- 50 feet across the lot to get to fresh open air. I stayed there gulping fresh air for a long time. I was SCARED! I did not know what happened. I waited until a minute after the engine stopped running, before returning to the car, letting the toxic gas disperse in the wind before I went anywhere near the car.
I started thinking and I realized that whatever happened, it had to be a result of the brake clean that I shot into the intake. I had done the same process using carb clean a hundred times and never had a problem.
I looked at the can and noticed that it said "chlorinated". What I ASSUMED had happened was that something in the chemistry of the cleaner was SOME FORM of chlorine, which apparently was changed or burned during combustion and came out of the tailpipe creating whatever gas was choking me. But it did not smell like chlorine at all. I don't have a recollection of it smelling like anything familiar, it just smelled REALLY REALLY bad. Since I am going to try to avoid breathing phosgene in the future, I probably won't get another chance to find out what it "smells like".
SO, TWO LESSONS>
1. Never burn chlorinated brake cleaner (like Avery and aussie have said).
2. Never BUY chlorinated brake cleaner unless there is some specific reason that you need it. I have no idea why it comes in a chlorinated and non-chlorinated version, but there must be a reason of some kind. Some kind of advantage that it has over the non-chlorinated. Maybe it cleans better, don't know. Anybody know? Bueller? But I'll never buy another chlorinated can, even if I don't plan to use it for burning.
I have always preferred a spray can of carb+choke cleaner, and it has always worked well for me.
What do the rest of you think about using carb+choke cleaner versus brake cleaner to squirt into an intake?
____
I did not know about the generation of phosgene, so thanks to the aussie and Avery for explaining that. I know Phosgene is a deadly toxic gas that works very quickly.
Also, another distantly related fact that people here should remember is that TEFLON, when combusted, also creates Phosgene. But I believe it takes an extremely high temp to burn Teflon, I'm not sure.
Thanks to aussie and Avery for their knowledge.
You are right, and I am glad you are OK. Another thing to remember is that burning refrigerants will make nasty vapors too. CFC and HCFC gasses make phosgene, and HFC gasses make nasty vapors too, but I can't remember which off the top of my head. As for burning teflon, I know that it produces perfluoroisobutene, which is more toxic than phosgene. It takes temps of around 850 degrees or more to burn teflon, which isn't too hard to reach, so be careful!
Avery Alexander Thank u Avery for the insight. I think in the old days they used to use Freon as the propellant, and when I burn that stuff, Whoooe!! I was arc welding one time and a dingleberry melted a hole in a and old paint spray can and that smoke was very dangerous
Just get some gas and pour it into an empty window cleaner bottle. Squirt it into the intake.
Drink every time Paul asks Pete to crank something
lol
I think it's awesome u showing your son I I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe starter went out change starter put new one changed fuel pump put new one still crank no start but I do think it is awesome that you are showing your son how to do all these steps I've learned lots as well from you
I don't even wait to see the vid before I give it the thumbs up. It's automatic now with Danners channel.
Great video Paul. Like always.... Keep them coming. You are one of the youtube greats
Hey Paul I had a question regarding time stamp 39:46
Where you talk about putting a test light on positive side saying it should light up
Is that because the test light has such a low amperage that it won't load the fuel pump and just go straight through it?
yes! Another way to visualize this is that the fuel pump motor basically has no resistance until it starts to spin, so the motor is basically a ground path for the low amperage test light
You’re my new favorite dude on UA-cam, outstanding job! I’ve always used a light and meter but a picoscope and computer are looking like a nice upgrade! Thanks for the video keep it coming!
I see the Pizza Oven is heating up..!!!!
Great video Paul! You’re the best teacher! Your son is taller than you,what are you going to do about that? 😁
He is! Gravity has shrunk me a 1/2", no b.s. :-)
Check for height codes.
No start could also be your key lost its program I had a no start no pulse injection I literally changed everything that these vids tell you to check but not one of them talk about your key could also cause this issue I have a 98 Lincoln town car so after changing everything out still wouldn't start turned over but no start ended up taking it to a shop they said it was my key lost its program in the chip they ordered new keys programmed them and it fired right up
Bill Irvin - what happened to you is exactly what happened to me. I had an intermittent no-start condition. I changed out every part imaginable (that could cause a no-start condition), and I still had the same intermittent no-start issue. I finally took my car to a locksmith, and the locksmith reprogrammed my key - bingo problem solved. I knew to take it to a locksmith because the same exact thing happened a few years prior.
@@infiniti_chik1225 yea it sucked I didn't even think about the key now I know I wish some of the vids on UA-cam would tell you that could be one of the issues but I couldn't find one they all say the same thing.
Hey i didn't have those cadillac tools but if i wanna be a mechanic i should better get tools the will get the answer for diagnostic faster. In the autorepair business time is money. Good video
You are good master and good luck
Your videos are so well put together man! 2nd year a tech here. Just got my first scope, the little aes uscope and Im already obsessed with it. Thanks for posting!
I cannot find the aeswave ultimates circuit tester anywhere is there a way to buy on from you on your side ..plz help
No sir. It's been on backorder for almost 2 years 😮💨
Sorry to bother you I know your busy I would like to know what software are you using in the video and what type of laptop do you run
Thank you Paul. What relay test tool are you using?
It's called a uActivate and is sold by AESwave but it's been on backorder for over 2 years now 😪
Thank you Paul. I appreciate your work. Bless You and your family.
I am new to this but when checking the pulse on the coil I notice on the left it shows 350v I am to assume this is volts. if in fact it is can this be measured with a volt meter.
Love the open fire in the background after you say about brake cleaner can cause poisonous fumes yet release acetylene into intake. Acetylene near an open fire....? Lol just an observation. Gas tank from car has breather too. Fuel vapour and open fire. 🔥
Yea this guys an idiot. By the time he's done you will need a new starter and battery too if the place don't burn down first.. He's a hack.
Great Video, Elimination of variables and the root cause shows itself. Why would they not have the Schrader valves anymore? It must be a cost matter and building the cheapest way without service in the loop.
Great video Paul. I don't think people realize how invaluable your videos are. I've been in the business a little over 20 years and electrical/electronics diag was always my weak point. I have learned so much from you over the years. I have been to numerous training seminars and classes over the years that cost $1000s and they teach the same things your u are but not NEARLY as in depth or as well. You've u provide a great service brother. God Bless.
hmm i got an fiat qubo diesel where there is always around 6 volt on the pulse wire when ignition on. when i crank my scope shows it only drops like 1 volt. by looking at your great videos i thnik i will look for bad grounding for the ECM.
Nicely done Paul, good to see that the premium website is running good and you haven’t let UA-cam slow you down.
Another way to check the fuel pump continuity. Remove fuel pump relay- probe pin (87)- and green led on power probe should illuminate. If not- you have a open circuit. Power Probe- makes your life easier.
Hey danner... got a 1983 Lincoln Mark VI.. 5.0L.. some days it starts and runs fine.. shut it off that night and try starting it the next morning and it just cranks and cranks.. 19k original miles.. got spark fuel pressure and compression.. changed the pressure regulator to finally get the correct fuel pressure back but did not solve the issue.. changed the coil pack.. no luck either.. on the days it would run fine it would start dying out towards the end of the day.. but then restart again.. but when left alone over night it refuses to start.. have checked the 5 volt reference everywhere and get mixed readings between .04v to 9v throughout the engine bay.. even the 2 injectors are showing mixed.. what could be the solution to the problem??
On my Mitsubishi Diamante ( think Dodge Stealth , Chrysler .. ) Two fuel pumps , one of the two runs at low vehicle speed , the other comes in at higher vehicle speed ( two fuel pumps , two different pressure ratings , two different start feed points )
I hope this helps some one
Thank You
I am mad. Purchased a bunch of part I didn't need. What for fuel pump do I get that won't go bad? This one lasted about a month. Don't know why I can hear the pump. But truck won't start. The previous owner had installed a new fuel pump. My s10 doesn't like fuel pumps!
as for burning brake parts cleaner, if it says "non-chlorinated" you'll be OK. it's the chlorine which is nasty when burnt.. same for older refrigerants which were chlorinated (R12 & R22 for example) may as well add this. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene
I was just going to say the same thing - you beat me to it. Not sure if they even sell a chlorinated carb or brake cleaner anymore - I haven't seen any here in MA.
I was always warned about R12 and flame ... makes mustard gas! Bad way to be poisoned ...
Chlorinated brake cleaner is available still.
11.10...dang Paul you're boring the kid.....or...... he's on his xbox till gone midnight like mine is..... :¬)
There are no words to thank you for this wonderful explanation. You are the godfather of diagnosis
Brilliant video. Hi from Ireland
Thanks Tim! Hello from the US
tim kiely Hi Tim. Watched the movie Leap Year and now I would love to visit Ireland. How far is Dingle to Dublin? Scanner has great videos. Been watching for years. Thank u!! we
All right scanner danner. I ve bee following you and have one for you . 2004 Jeep 4.7 new timing gears and chains all done right, new mopar cam and crank, no codes , good fuel pressure,started & shut off twice now no start.Whats up. need help here
The tablet belongs to my wife but I am David cadena I also went to a mechanic school Capital City trade and technical graduated second best but these newer cars are a pain I work from home don't have other equipment you do but I like the paper clip thing
Them eye's bouncing off the Walls ...... Telling me that ringing in the ears can be aggravating ..... "Yelp "
I have a good grasp of battery charging and stuff. So how can a handheld battery tester accurately measure cca's? With no vdrop and slow reaction. Is it just an ohm meter?
If you use your brain you can use simple tools, the fancy tools and scanners are for helping do it a lot faster.
If you are just fixing your own you don't need to be that fast, just fix it.
Some tools you can build your own.
About halfway through the video people in the shop will be hollering. Hey might want to sell that man starter too lol😂
I had a 2007 Hyundai Tucson it would not start at all turn the key over nothing so what I did is went to the main fuse relay sure nuff it was corrosion bad in the the fuse box on the outside under the hood where I found the problem of that main fuse relay I fix that and then it was ready to go but I was checking other things as well when I push down on the main relay and the engine all electronic components started to come alive so at the time I knew I had a bad main relay fuse add that it was not easy to get to fix the problem because those female plug in wires that goes into the main fuse relaythere was a bunch of wires underneath main fuse box man I got it running pretty good and everything after I fix the wires the main fuse relay then about 3-4 months or so and my timing belt broke the valve dropped about the same time the piston came up and bent valve and damage the piston, the timing belt if I was right when it breaks the Hyundai Tucson that I had the 2.7L engine they called it interference engine I think I word that right I'm not sure what the word term of that
Great demonstration on the proper use of a scope... Also great to know someone else knows how to properly figure out an electrical problem... You definitely know how theory works and why... Practicality should also be taught with all this theory... It's the main reason why that guy off the street beats the guy who went to school... The guy off the street doesn't cloud his ability to do his job with trying to over complicate a situation... He uses K.I.S.S.... Keep It Simple Stupid!
I'm not trying to minimize your teaching either or what you're doing and attempting to teach or troll you... But my guy who turned me into your channel and is a lead tech all the time over complicates things all the time when the answer isn't obvious... We really need a class on "how to think different situations...
you're a good man. great job with the video Kaleb.
You can put bigger load. Like put temporary like heater or electric fan 12volts so you can see a current amp.😉☺
Another complete analysis, I can see how u wrote the book on all ur diags, fun to watch u light up as u go through the discovery of the process, ur enthusiasm is rubbing off on grasshopper
Thanks for the encouragement Mark!
My pleasure
what's up. I enjoyed watching the repairs yesterday. hoping you have some video on grand prix since I need to learn on this as much as I can.
Eh when the pumps dead, the pumps dead...... Gave your arm a workout though......
Nice. Excellent point about why waste time "plumbing" in a fuel pressure gauge if their is no current draw on the pump circuit! Thanx again.
Dear sir.
Please how can i test the crankshaft or camshaft signal with the basic tools?
I am in Iraq and we dont have the tools you are use to test.
Thanks
Just subscribed second video iam watching try to solve my no start crancking issue
So lucky to be working with your kid. Just imagine the diagnosing demon he will become!!
U are the man.love ur videos I'm learning sooo much from ur videos.an the tools i need.i will b getting the relay tool thanks
I really appreciate your common sense approach to diagnosis testing and your patient explaining of your diagnosis ! Your an excellent teacher, keep up the good work and I subscribed to your channel ! Thanks again !
Thank you Larry! Good to have you with me. I see all comments, no matter how old the videos are. Looking forward to hearing from you more :-)
i like this video I have a problem it is warm engine no starting no spark no injection. but cold starting no problem . what is broblem
I have a 94 22re no injector pulse..... Cold start injector let's it start up then dies please help us
I hope your son learns your knowledge to teach my son when he's old enough.
great comment! That is the plan my friend. Caleb can take this thing over from me and continue the legacy.
My son ist wainting!!! ;-)
kalop pay attention im sure you are ,you are blessed to have your dad and to have one with the knowledge he obtains take advantage buddy
You have a Think Pad, why not use the track ball? The touch pad is obviously used.
Hi scanner i have a Honda prelude crank but no start how do you check the pickup coil in the distributor
The intro should be "Yo Yo Punks!" LOLIf I recall correctly, some of these Hyundai's have an Inertia switch(similar to what you see on Fords) What do you beat on the tank with, an air hammer? LOL
Hi I got a 2005 Saab 9-3 That has a crank but no start do you have any videos working on Saab
In Germany we say when it‘s the best you can get „It‘s the Mercedes..“ :)
Thanks again. I don't have any special instruments for checking. But only a test light and basic information I diagnosis various Maruti Suzuki India diesel car dealership... So thanks again
phosgene gas wow old school freon exposed to open flames .yea your eyes would burn
excellent diagnostics format as usual.
I've been seeing what appears as fuel pump failures in modern modular pump circuits with the actual failure at the plug from the pump to the harness plug internally.
good pump, bad connection internally.
something to consider
I forgot to put my high pressure fuse back in. Tomorrow it should start.
How does this person give a thumbs down and the video last over 51minniuts and posted 30 minutes ago
because they hate me :-)
ScannerDanner thanks you are the best
Haha must be Dan Sullivan. Keep up the vids Paul, there should be a techs hall of fame, you'd be right in!
How cares for the thumb down. Dumb he is lol.
Did someone just called you master wow that means your above all 😲😮😲
Friend of a friend has a 1998 F150 with 4.6l engine, cranks but will not start. He has had 4 different mechanics look at it and they can't figure it out, he says there is spark, fuel pressure is good, they sprayed starter fluid to no avail. They changed the camshaft position sensor and crank sensor couple weeks ago, still won't start, I live 50 miles away so haven't been able to go look at it until today. Took me about 10 min to determine its a fuel problem, I got it started with starter fluid but it won't stay running ( not sure why the other guys couldn't get it started). Pressure at fuel rail Schrader valve is 38-40 psi and seems to hold after key is turned off. I'm thinking maybe fuel filter, possibly something preventing injectors from working. I did pull off the hose/tube to throttlebody and it's pretty dirty, any suggestions ? Does not have any codes stored.
You need to confirm there is no injection pulse first. Use a test light like I showed in this video
A garage with no starting fluid? I think someone is trying to sell lab scopes.
You got me all figured out then don't you? 🙄
All them Cadillacs you got and you still need a bigger hammer! 🤣😂
Great instructive video as usual, I always enjoy watching your troubleshooting logic.
But on this one, at the last stage of your diagnosis where you are isolating the fuel pump as faulty, you seem to rely on the motor ground being reached through the motor brushes, but would a in-tank fuel pump really use a brush/commutator type motor? I would expect it to have been a brushless DC type motor in which case you would still need a separate step to confirm a sound motor ground exists. Please advise and clarify this for us and thank you.
Air, spark, fuel , the basic items nessasry to start a gasoline engine.
You are explaining it like a BOSS !! OMG now i know why you are a teacher , if i lived in the states i would be you re student ! Ps you have the "Rolls-Royce tools 😆😆 we say here in Belgium 😉😉 i have a 6 series e64 2005 model i have a big problem ik was working on my radio speakers and i cut 4 thin wires a litle yellow and black and a Blue red / red yellow i think.. when i cut the firt to i hear the pump fuel go dead because i put 12v on the wires i tath it was a speaker whire now it wont start 😭, did i fraid the ecu?? I messurd al the fuses and relais .. looks fine . I find you re channel and i am learning but i am afraid i do something wrong 😏 sorry fore my pore englisch 😊
your English is fine my friend and thank you for the compliment! Without knowing exactly what wire you cut and applied 12v to, I cannot answer that question. Now if you can tell me exactly what circuit that is, I can help. Also, one of my moderators on my forum is from Belgium, his name is Dylan. It is free to join my forum. I bet we can help you. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
It is a never end "possibility" world ......... I seem car run out of gas causing no start because of a faulty fuel gauge. I seem car run out of gas so fast causing no start because of some fuel leaks at the fuel rail when the engine is running. One question, is a lap scope any good for diagnosing those hybrid and/or pure electric cars? I am going to invests a lap scope (ideally a 4 channel pico with lap top) but what about the those Snapon, Autel, or any other Scanners that built with scope, any advises would be helpful, Finallly, I have to say Thank You for all your videos posting, I learn and make living from them, I mean it!!!!
Of course, the lab scope is useful for everything. Hybrid or not
I guess I should just call and ask. There are no manuals for some reasons.
Would you do a test for cranking but no spark for Subaru RX EA82T engine,. Please explain more on the connections between the ignitor, the coil and in the electronic distributor
I'm not familiar with specific engine designations like this.
Provide me with year, make, model, engine size (liters) and I can help.
the web page mytools.com is plenty of virus,what I did wrong
i learned a lot on this video... for this kind of technical problem i love the way you dont shorcut anything.. do you have and videos that had power feed from Fuse boxes and lines but not getting power and pulse from injectors.. or getting power from battery to fuse boxes to ECM but ECM dont give voltage to injectors
Check out my chapters 17 and 18 playlist (fuel injector testing)
Thank you!
I love your oscilloscope skills I want to get on that level
Fancy tools are for programming/relearning an stuff"(
WTF? Everything done here can be done with a $5 multimeter. No scope, no test light, no amp clamp, just a Harbor Freight give away multimeter.
so do it then. I'm not pushing tools, just showing techniques. If you can adapt what I am doing with less tools, more power to you. No need for the WTF comment
Mr danner I might have asked you before but I have a vantage pro. Can it handle fuel injector spikes and ignition coil spikes without the intenuator The other concern is if I try and look at can c bus waveforms it’s flat line 2.50 volts I can’t see data packets. If I scope the can interior bus at dlc It does catch the communication packets/waveform. Is my scope messed up?
No attenuator is needed for the VP.
When measuring CAN or any other very fast signal, you must be in the lab scope portion NOT the graphing multimeter. Make sure peak detect is turned on and chose small time bases then freeze and zoom out to see the packets of data
I like all your videos but this time I really like Pete's cozy garage with fireplace in the background!!
i love your video Mr. Paul, it gives me an idea on troubleshooting ,im already on this page on the problem on my Car , i want to do it myself ,instead of going to a shop ,ill just buy your merchandise ,depending on the idea that you will give me, after i fix my mechanical problem this will be the next, i have issue that my car wont start again, can i ask for your emai Mr Paul?
I can't offer personal support via email but I've created a forum on my website, that is free to join, where we can absolutely help you www.scannerdanner.com
Hope to see you there!
No doubt that you are a Hyundai aficionado! Bravo!
Great video sir. I have just one question as I'm confused.
when you put the test light to positive battery and pin 78 which goes to the pump. You said it shoudl light finding a ground through the motor. But how it can? since the light is placed between 12V and 12V so the drop across the light is 0V??
I can understand if the circuit is off but when it is running it shouldn't light, right?
He answers this question in another comment. When the pump is off (and therefore causes no resistance from it running), voltage will find its way through the component (fuel pump, in this case) and to the component's ground, resulting in a complete circuit, turning on the small bulb in the test light. You can test this same theory out by putting a test light set to volts "in line" between one of your battery posts and the disconnected battery post clamp (which is one way that parasitic drain tests can be run, to see the flow of amperage from the component, with the multimeter set to "Amps / Milliamp" mode). Hope I have explained this clearly.
I would look for fuel pump relay put my hand on it to feel click and listen for click. Turn the key 1 click to prime. If relay engaged and fuel pump did not prime. Would change the fuel pump.
That's not complete enough of a test. That only tells you the control side of the relay is functional. I can give you many examples (video links too) of bad relays that click. Also, corroded power feed wires between the relay and pump and then also faulty fuel pump grounds.
Still don’t know why you don’t have at least 2M subs. ChrisFix has 5M and doesn’t provide this kind of troubleshooting insight.
I'm not entertaining enough :-)
Great video but where is the link to the relay tester you used ?
thank you for putting all the time showing this. It is lovely to see you use your knowledge and logical thinking to work through this problem. Wonderfull to see your enthousiasm you must love your job !
Brilliant video once again,thanks for taking the time to share all the procedures and explain them so simply and clearly,great to see Caleb having fun with his old man!!God bless 👍 👍
Excellent job first to your son (great visual audio) and yes you for best automotive instructor. God has blessed you with a special gift .
Thank you Alan!
I HAVE AN 05 HONDA PILOT WITH A NO START. THE FUEL PUMP IS GOOD I HAVE SPARK , I HAVE POWER TO THE INJECTOR . IT CRANKS BUT NO START. CAN ANYONE HELP ME
Do you have injector pulse?