Just so you know, the water DOES NOT neutralize the blue, the oil does. I'm a machinist who use to do Black Oxide (blue). The water is to wash away excess solution, but if you don't oil it, the rust process will continue. If you really want to get out scratches, you have to sand the area until you can no longer see the scratch. then steel wool the sanding marks, in steps from course to fine steel wool until the texture matches the rest of the barrel (or what ever component you're working on).
@@mark5862 I didn't even remember this. It was 7 yrs ago. Btw, I can no longer use bluing, as I have developed an allergy to it. Too bad really. I was pretty good at it.
It works 100% better if you WIPE the area with alcohol first...perma blue of 44/40 would have darkened those scratches instantly if you cut thrrough the oils first with alcohol
I just recently stripped and reblued my entire Norinco SKS with Brownell's Oxpho-blue that you mentioned briefly in this video. It is, as you said, an amazing product! I had previously used perma blue and super blue on a M38, but both of those took me at least 8 coats to achieve the deep black that Oxpho-blue got in just 2. Anyway, I just wanted to throw in my two cents. Hopefully this helps anyone reading. Love the videos keep them coming!
I used oxpho blue to refinish an enhanced colt 1911 slide. It's all about degreasing, light once over with steel wool, heating, and then getting a good even application. There are only a couple spots in which you can even tell that it was reblued.
I've used the Perma Blue. It works, but it does take a few applications. I have a Mossberg 88 that I shortened the barrel on, then blued the tip to blend it in. I think I used 4-5 coats. Still wasn't quite as dark as the original finish, but it was darn close.
I've found that the paste version of the Birchwood Casey is much better than the liquid, especially for larger areas. I've done a few complete reblue jobs with it. If you are doing a large area its a good idea to use their prep solution to etch the surface and remove any rust. I also prep it beforehand with a series of 400, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but it can make a nice looking blue job.
Great video. Did you ever consider using a glass bead blast to prep the metal? I restored an old .22 bolt action by bead blasting to bring metal back to raw form, looked like stainless steel. I then cleaned/degreased, and blued (cold blued). Result was very good. NOTE: I am a metal finisher. MOST important is a clean substrate before any good results will be realized.
when all else failsread the instructions properly on the Birchwood casey perma blue, does not say apply with wire wool ! says apply and saturate with sponge wool is one of the earlier bluing steps
I sand smooth, clean with alcohol, dry completely, cold blue with a q-tip, dunk in cold water, buff with light steel wool, repeat 2 to 3 times, looks like brand new, did my whole rifle. Took about an hour or so.
I have only used the Birchwood Casey cold blueing. When I do use it though, I actually scrub the blueing off all the way around the scratch with scuffing pads(like a 1/2-1" wide) around the scratch and blue it seems to blend a lot better. But as always love the videos, keep up the good work!
Great information. you repaired that in about 10 minutes. Perfect. Now, Could you have scuffed with 0000 then applied a second coat then maybe a 3rd to get rid of the gauge? It was a bad scratch.
Most manufacturers use a hot blueing process, which is a minor variation on what is refered to in industry as black oxide coating. It really doesn't coat the steel, but instead forms black rust as opposed to red rust. The black rust along with a bit of oil on the surface prevents red rust from forming while not changing the dimensions of the part. It is done using a mixture of salts at about 300 degrees F. Cold bluing uses a mixture of acids instead of heat to support the reaction.
If your having strength issues with perma blue try avoid container contamination by pouring what your going to use into another area to dip your steel wool in. Each dip of the steel wool will weaken the solution.
I really appreciate this vid. I have my grandpa's old .22 luger repro and it's got a nasty scratch next to the toggle and this gave some good ideas on how to touch it up.
I use the cold blue out aide leave what ever out in the sun for about 1 hour so its warm to the touch and start the blue let its sit clean and if it needs another coat i will do it all over again but the way u did it was cool never thou about it that way thanks keep up the good work
Eric, just wanted to compliment you on the phenomenal production quality and edits. They do not go un noticed. Great work and demonstration on bluing too :) kick ass!
GREAT Idea to have a swab right behind the torch... may want to be careful of FIRE haha thanks great video.. I am now looking into the 44/40 looks like it may be what I need.. again thanks.. I have used a littel bit of baking soda with some water as a naturalizer. It worked good..I gotta get that 44/40.. thanks... thumbs up great video
I've used cold bluing with Birchwood Casey's, but i had them send me their Super Blue the perma blue didnt like polished finishes. But yeah i've done a 12 gauge New England Pardener shotgun , a Sears and Roebuck .22lr , and a 410 shotgun, and they turned out great! I'm living in a place I cannot use caustic acid or any other stout chemicals.
Rather than a torch, could I heat the area up with a lighter (I don't have a torch) for a few minutes and then wipe off the soot before I apply the cold blue compound?
It will be an area of a PAP M92 7.62x39 (AK pistol) where a weld has to be cut to remove a thread protector to add a muzzle device. I wanted to file the cut weld smooth and re-blue it to help blend the area I had to cut to remove the thread protector.
sounds like a fun project. youll have to apply the blue more than once on something like that, probably even several times because it is a hardened weld. just be patient with the blue and it should work out well. I reblued the entire barrel and receiver on my western field .22. it didnt look good at first but after multiple applications it doesnt look bad at all
What is the best way to remove rust from a barrel? Have a OLD E.Remmington &Sons 20 Guage rolling lock that has sit in a leather scabbard for over 50+ years that has gotten rust on it. Don't want to distroy the original finish but want to get it cleaned up. Have tried gun cleaners ,wd-40 , PB blaster nothing is working please help.
i use cold blue to blend in better steel wool around where the damage is that will tend to make the bluing flow togather better also using a hair dryer i had not propane torch to use, some stuff just will not cover up but for rust stopping it will then oil it after it water bathed! i reseal stock too i hunt in winter time i might get into rain or snow! that why i resealed the stock! i liked the video i learned some tips from it!
used perma blue on an old rifle my dad gave me. it was rough. he trade got it in a trade and someone sanded the blue off and painted the stock black with something that put me in mind of fence faint. that perma blue works with good prep work. used a few coats and it's more black than blu but considering the before and after. it's no show piece but you can only do so much to get around the deep scratches.
I tried out oxphoblue after Eric used it on his mosin and love it. If you take your time with coats i have done some barrels but the finish is thin and likes to rust. As for scratches and touching up bolts etc that have wear it is awesome.
instructions even say multiple coats may be required, I did an entire mosin m-44 took 4 coats to get decent bluing and could use 2 more but instructions say do not leave on more than 2-3 minutes to it is very tedious doing small sections at a time,I took it down to bare clean steel starting out. It turned out nice.
Thank you for sharing.. Will 44/40 work on small Knicks in what I think is black anodiezed aluminum. Specifically, it's my Sig 320 AXG grip module? If not, any recommendations? Maybe aluma-black? Sharpie?lol
Most commercial processes use a hot caustic soap clean, followed by a rinse, followed by an acid etch to activate the surface, followed by a rinse or two and then into the blackening tank - which may be hot or cold depending on the process. Then it is rinsed and an oil of one form or another applied.
Just slap the parts on the header of a hardley and ride around in 105f temps. It will blue anything then spill it's crankcase oil on your rear tire as the rod connects with road. I'm going to try the 44/40
Thank you Eric, I just picked up a S&W 19. A few scratches here and there, was wondering about touchup. Not a safe queen, so not worried if it doesn't come out as well.
44"40 works great, used it for years for small touches. He's scratched this pretty deep, don't let that distract from the fact that the 44 works... And better than the Permanent blue...
I'm no expert at all, but I've used that Perma Blue quite a bit and it seems to work differently on different guns. Some guns it works immediately and perfectly. Others it acts as you experienced in this video (doesn't do much). I've always believed that it just depends on the steel used in the gun.
Isnt steel wool already oil coated, so what's the point of applying blue on steel wool when bluing literally HATES oil and won't work with it when applying?
I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?
Can you use cold blue on a bare-steel or stainless steel barbell that has a brown patina? I'm not sure how to tell the difference between the two, so I'm not sure what material my weightlifting barbell is, but it's a junker either way and I'd like to see if I can at least get it looking pretty.
Bought it used sent to keltec and they replaced trigger assembly, trigger bar & extractor screw, polished feed ramp. Great company service, will seriously consider them for next purchase. No charge just paid frt to them, none back to me
nice job. I use Blue Wonder. I have a vid of a entire Mossberg shotgun barrel done with Blue Wonder on my channel. also one of a Mosin Sporter I blued. Both look as good or better then factory blue. Blue Wonder is hands down the best home blue.
wish i could learn how to completely re-blue my firearm because i Mother'd polished my marlin model 60's barrel and now i'm stuck with a HIGH maintenance gun i got to contently keep an eye out for rusting
Eric, Thanks for the videos. Have you ever tried using the Birchwood Casey (or other brand) touch up cold blue pen? Looks like a sharpie, and seems easier to apply, but I'm wondering if it's not just a gimmic.
AWESOME! I've been going through all your bluing videos this week as I have a project I need to take care of. So timing here is perfect! Though now I know, cold bluing is not what I want to do for this project. I do think Oxpho Blue is what I am going to try first.
I like the bluing in a gel just let it sit for a while then clean off with oil I dont heat, or steel wool anything, or rinse with water done whole guns that way
I appreciate you guys making this video, as cold bluing is a bit controversial in its applications. However, you were right in that the details weren't very well seen. Some still shots of before/after (perhaps screencaps of before shots with the video camera) would be helpful for that.
A better idea than the hand drill and belt sander is a drill press and some 1000 grit paper that you just hold in your hands. You dont have to tighten the drill press all that much and when you clean up the edges of the screw head it wont take as much off the sides of the head as when you use a belt sander. just tear a strip about 3x6 and run it back and fourth while the press is spinning, takes the old finish right off without wrecking the shape or size of the screw head.
Thank you so much for doing this video Eric. I have been wanting to touch up a few of my blued pieces that have scratches, namely a notorious idiot scratch on my first 1911. Not as deep as the scratches you made here but I will keep an eye out for 44/40.
earlier on in the video you said the scratches were simple light cosmetic scratches, after the not so good results you changed your mind & said the scratches were extremely deep gouges LOL which one is it!! from the looks of it, it wouldn't make a difference it looks as bad after as it did before!!
I have an old 12 gauge that was my great uncles, its a Noble model 60 that he bought at Montgomery Wards back in the 60's. The bluing isnt bad, its just really faded on the mag tube where the pump rubs and it has various light surface rust in areas. I dont want to strip it completely, Can I wipe it down with the Birchwood Casey rust remover just to clean the surface (not stripping it to bare steel) and just use the Birchwood Casey Perma-Blue to darken it and give it a refreshed finish? I think that would work just fine, anyone have any suggestions? The gun just has a lot of sentimental value and I want to give it a nice refresh, not a full restoration.
Yes, I would use a heat gun or hair dryer (I use a butane torch) to draw out all moisture. USE GLOVES, don't want ANY oils on or in the surface. Wipe it on, rinse it off.. I've touched up my Sig Sauer pistols with it. PERMA Blue is what I've used for touch up. It will wear off again.
Are you crazy the 4440 was left on way to long it started to rust deep. The birchwood casey is not as strong. It's a little more forgiving. You need to stay away from the heat and only blue the scratch. Its called cold bluing for a reason.
in your oxpho blue video you felt that you could do a decent job of rebluing an entire barrel. do you still think that's true, or have you changed your mind with experience?
Perfect timing on this video, this was something I wanted to learn about, however how well with it work on a firearm with some old rust spots i've already steel wool-ed away, Is it a good idea to try to use the cold blue to attempt the rust from reappearing or the finish getting any worse, or will it just cover up the underlying problems, sorry if this question seems dumb, I'm just new to the bluing process.
It also goes by the general term tooling blue, and is a form of oxidation (as he said rust in layman's terms). Anyone who chucks machine thread screws in a drill motor, is risking damage to the threads. The real problem w/ this is damaging the female threads on the gun when forcing it into the hole.
Just so you know, the water DOES NOT neutralize the blue, the oil does. I'm a machinist who use to do Black Oxide (blue). The water is to wash away excess solution, but if you don't oil it, the rust process will continue. If you really want to get out scratches, you have to sand the area until you can no longer see the scratch. then steel wool the sanding marks, in steps from course to fine steel wool until the texture matches the rest of the barrel (or what ever component you're working on).
Exactly right. Better to leave the scratch unless redoing and sanding the whole part.
@@mark5862 I didn't even remember this. It was 7 yrs ago. Btw, I can no longer use bluing, as I have developed an allergy to it. Too bad really. I was pretty good at it.
It works 100% better if you WIPE the area with alcohol first...perma blue of 44/40 would have darkened those scratches instantly if you cut thrrough the oils first with alcohol
I just recently stripped and reblued my entire Norinco SKS with Brownell's Oxpho-blue that you mentioned briefly in this video. It is, as you said, an amazing product! I had previously used perma blue and super blue on a M38, but both of those took me at least 8 coats to achieve the deep black that Oxpho-blue got in just 2. Anyway, I just wanted to throw in my two cents. Hopefully this helps anyone reading. Love the videos keep them coming!
This type of video is simply amazing. Sharing knowledge is a selfless and awesome thing. Thanks Eric, you're the man!
I just reblued my sons gun with birchwood Casey's super blue giving it a few coats and it turned out fantastic totally satisfied.
Too bad you didn't use the perma blue right....
@GGALLIN1776 According to the label, you're still supposed to wash after one minute and then steel wool.
Perma blued replica pot metal Winchester rifles. They look great. Never heated the thing first though, didn't need to.
I used oxpho blue to refinish an enhanced colt 1911 slide. It's all about degreasing, light once over with steel wool, heating, and then getting a good even application. There are only a couple spots in which you can even tell that it was reblued.
I've used the Perma Blue. It works, but it does take a few applications. I have a Mossberg 88 that I shortened the barrel on, then blued the tip to blend it in. I think I used 4-5 coats. Still wasn't quite as dark as the original finish, but it was darn close.
I've found that the paste version of the Birchwood Casey is much better than the liquid, especially for larger areas. I've done a few complete reblue jobs with it. If you are doing a large area its a good idea to use their prep solution to etch the surface and remove any rust. I also prep it beforehand with a series of 400, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but it can make a nice looking blue job.
Great video. Did you ever consider using a glass bead blast to prep the metal? I restored an old .22 bolt action by bead blasting to bring metal back to raw form, looked like stainless steel. I then cleaned/degreased, and blued (cold blued).
Result was very good.
NOTE: I am a metal finisher. MOST important is a clean substrate before any good results will be realized.
Good video. My son inherited a couple of older long guns that might benefit from this a little.
when all else failsread the instructions properly on the Birchwood casey perma blue, does not say apply with wire wool ! says apply and saturate with sponge wool is one of the earlier bluing steps
I sand smooth, clean with alcohol, dry completely, cold blue with a q-tip, dunk in cold water, buff with light steel wool, repeat 2 to 3 times, looks like brand new, did my whole rifle. Took about an hour or so.
How about cleaning up minor rust? I would assume the steel parts must be removed from wood stocks. Enjoyed watching. Thanks
Once again these guys need a tv show!!!!
Thank ya sir
aaaaaaa.....i felt that scratch on my heart
I have only used the Birchwood Casey cold blueing. When I do use it though, I actually scrub the blueing off all the way around the scratch with scuffing pads(like a 1/2-1" wide) around the scratch and blue it seems to blend a lot better. But as always love the videos, keep up the good work!
Great information. you repaired that in about 10 minutes. Perfect. Now, Could you have scuffed with 0000 then applied a second coat then maybe a 3rd to get rid of the gauge? It was a bad scratch.
Most manufacturers use a hot blueing process, which is a minor variation on what is refered to in industry as black oxide coating. It really doesn't coat the steel, but instead forms black rust as opposed to red rust. The black rust along with a bit of oil on the surface prevents red rust from forming while not changing the dimensions of the part. It is done using a mixture of salts at about 300 degrees F. Cold bluing uses a mixture of acids instead of heat to support the reaction.
If your having strength issues with perma blue try avoid container contamination by pouring what your going to use into another area to dip your steel wool in. Each dip of the steel wool will weaken the solution.
I do have some BC cold Blue on hand at home and feel I need to touch up a rear TruGlo night sight. Thank you for the demonstration, sir. Well Done!!
I used permablue gel to do a full resto on an M93. Alot of tedious work yes, but at a fraction of the cost of hot bluing I can live with the results
I really appreciate this vid. I have my grandpa's old .22 luger repro and it's got a nasty scratch next to the toggle and this gave some good ideas on how to touch it up.
By the way your videos are getting better and better keep up the good work all u guys moss pawn
I use the cold blue out aide leave what ever out in the sun for about 1 hour so its warm to the touch and start the blue let its sit clean and if it needs another coat i will do it all over again but the way u did it was cool never thou about it that way thanks keep up the good work
Eric, just wanted to compliment you on the phenomenal production quality and edits. They do not go un noticed. Great work and demonstration on bluing too :) kick ass!
Agree, the BC cold blue is for minor/temp work. Great vid brother..
I knew I liked ya for a reason. Nice Milwaukee battery
GREAT Idea to have a swab right behind the torch... may want to be careful of FIRE haha thanks great video.. I am now looking into the 44/40 looks like it may be what I need.. again thanks.. I have used a littel bit of baking soda with some water as a naturalizer. It worked good..I gotta get that 44/40.. thanks... thumbs up great video
I've used cold bluing with Birchwood Casey's, but i had them send me their Super Blue the perma blue didnt like polished finishes. But yeah i've done a 12 gauge New England Pardener shotgun , a Sears and Roebuck .22lr , and a 410 shotgun, and they turned out great! I'm living in a place I cannot use caustic acid or any other stout chemicals.
I love the music in these vids. Relaxing and cool.
Rather than a torch, could I heat the area up with a lighter (I don't have a torch) for a few minutes and then wipe off the soot before I apply the cold blue compound?
yea you can. you dont want to get the metal too hot to touch, just warm it up a little bit.you could even use a hair dryer
Thank you for the advice. A hair dryer sounds like the best idea for what I have.
what are you reblueing?
It will be an area of a PAP M92 7.62x39 (AK pistol) where a weld has to be cut to remove a thread protector to add a muzzle device. I wanted to file the cut weld smooth and re-blue it to help blend the area I had to cut to remove the thread protector.
sounds like a fun project. youll have to apply the blue more than once on something like that, probably even several times because it is a hardened weld. just be patient with the blue and it should work out well. I reblued the entire barrel and receiver on my western field .22. it didnt look good at first but after multiple applications it doesnt look bad at all
What is the best way to remove rust from a barrel? Have a OLD E.Remmington &Sons 20 Guage rolling lock that has sit in a leather scabbard for over 50+ years that has gotten rust on it. Don't want to distroy the original finish but want to get it cleaned up. Have tried gun cleaners ,wd-40 , PB blaster nothing is working please help.
i use cold blue to blend in better steel wool around where the damage is that will tend to make the bluing flow togather better also using a hair dryer i had not propane torch to use, some stuff just will not cover up but for rust stopping it will then oil it after it water bathed! i reseal stock too i hunt in winter time i might get into rain or snow! that why i resealed the stock! i liked the video i learned some tips from it!
used perma blue on an old rifle my dad gave me. it was rough. he trade got it in a trade and someone sanded the blue off and painted the stock black with something that put me in mind of fence faint. that perma blue works with good prep work. used a few coats and it's more black than blu but considering the before and after. it's no show piece but you can only do so much to get around the deep scratches.
I tried out oxphoblue after Eric used it on his mosin and love it. If you take your time with coats i have done some barrels but the finish is thin and likes to rust. As for scratches and touching up bolts etc that have wear it is awesome.
instructions even say multiple coats may be required, I did an entire mosin m-44 took 4 coats to get decent bluing and could use 2 more but instructions say do not leave on more than 2-3 minutes to it is very tedious doing small sections at a time,I took it down to bare clean steel starting out. It turned out nice.
Nice little Marlin Model 60 you got there Eric.
Thank you for sharing.. Will 44/40 work on small Knicks in what I think is black anodiezed aluminum. Specifically, it's my Sig 320 AXG grip module? If not, any recommendations? Maybe aluma-black? Sharpie?lol
Most commercial processes use a hot caustic soap clean, followed by a rinse, followed by an acid etch to activate the surface, followed by a rinse or two and then into the blackening tank - which may be hot or cold depending on the process. Then it is rinsed and an oil of one form or another applied.
love the blues soundtrak.
i have used prema blue on a mod 60 to completely reblue and it turned out real nice almost looked new
Just slap the parts on the header of a hardley and ride around in 105f temps. It will blue anything then spill it's crankcase oil on your rear tire as the rod connects with road. I'm going to try the 44/40
When u "blue" a gun does it come out black?
Informative and entertaining, you are one smooth cat in front of the camera.
Eric could you show us the process of nickel plating?
I think it is an excellent How-To especially for nickel plating some good rare old revolvers
your butane flame condenses water on the cool steel. warm it with a heat gun or hair dryer for a dry heat
Thank you Eric, I just picked up a S&W 19. A few scratches here and there, was wondering about touchup. Not a safe queen, so not worried if it doesn't come out as well.
44"40 works great, used it for years for small touches. He's scratched this pretty deep, don't let that distract from the fact that the 44 works... And better than the Permanent blue...
I'm no expert at all, but I've used that Perma Blue quite a bit and it seems to work differently on different guns. Some guns it works immediately and perfectly. Others it acts as you experienced in this video (doesn't do much). I've always believed that it just depends on the steel used in the gun.
Isnt steel wool already oil coated, so what's the point of applying blue on steel wool when bluing literally HATES oil and won't work with it when applying?
I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?
Can you use cold blue on a bare-steel or stainless steel barbell that has a brown patina? I'm not sure how to tell the difference between the two, so I'm not sure what material my weightlifting barbell is, but it's a junker either way and I'd like to see if I can at least get it looking pretty.
Pops oh I am sorry... That for making me smile today.
Best channel on youtube
Not very impressed...
Bought it used sent to keltec and they replaced trigger assembly, trigger bar & extractor screw, polished feed ramp. Great company service, will seriously consider them for next purchase. No charge just paid frt to them, none back to me
Hey berry and Eric you guys should do a video on the different kind of blueing and the pros and cons but its just an idea u
nice job. I use Blue Wonder. I have a vid of a entire Mossberg shotgun barrel done with Blue Wonder on my channel. also one of a Mosin Sporter I blued. Both look as good or better then factory blue. Blue Wonder is hands down the best home blue.
Would you recommend these products to touch up a Glock pin? I know I can buy new pins but I might need this for other touch up spots
Another great video. Keep them coming!
You always have the best videos
wish i could learn how to completely re-blue my firearm because i Mother'd polished my marlin model 60's barrel and now i'm stuck with a HIGH maintenance gun i got to contently keep an eye out for rusting
I love these gum-smiffing videos.
Thanks for the help. Where in Georgia is your shop?
I like using Oxpho Blue and Dicropran on small parts.
Knowing some about acids, It seems as though the 4440 has an etching effect
Eric, Thanks for the videos. Have you ever tried using the Birchwood Casey (or other brand) touch up cold blue pen? Looks like a sharpie, and seems easier to apply, but I'm wondering if it's not just a gimmic.
I'm going to try it on a watch case.
How about a video on gun rust removal, prevention, etc.
What do you recommend to re blue an entire weapon? I have used cold blue before but I have a few guns that I would like to totally re do.
AWESOME! I've been going through all your bluing videos this week as I have a project I need to take care of. So timing here is perfect!
Though now I know, cold bluing is not what I want to do for this project. I do think Oxpho Blue is what I am going to try first.
I like the bluing in a gel
just let it sit for a while then clean off with oil
I dont heat, or steel wool anything, or rinse with water
done whole guns that way
Thank you sir....keep the vids coming...I love you guys
hi have learned so much from your videos thank you very much
I appreciate you guys making this video, as cold bluing is a bit controversial in its applications. However, you were right in that the details weren't very well seen. Some still shots of before/after (perhaps screencaps of before shots with the video camera) would be helpful for that.
excellent video! Thank you so much Eric.
Depends on what it is made of. A carbon steel blade will blue well. Most of the tool steels and stainlesses won't blue well. if at all.
Great how-to video, thanks for the info.
A better idea than the hand drill and belt sander is a drill press and some 1000 grit paper that you just hold in your hands. You dont have to tighten the drill press all that much and when you clean up the edges of the screw head it wont take as much off the sides of the head as when you use a belt sander. just tear a strip about 3x6 and run it back and fourth while the press is spinning, takes the old finish right off without wrecking the shape or size of the screw head.
i love looking at your tool wall can you do a video of your tools that you have?
Thank you so much for doing this video Eric. I have been wanting to touch up a few of my blued pieces that have scratches, namely a notorious idiot scratch on my first 1911. Not as deep as the scratches you made here but I will keep an eye out for 44/40.
earlier on in the video you said the scratches were simple light cosmetic scratches, after the not so good results you changed your mind & said the scratches were extremely deep gouges LOL which one is it!! from the looks of it, it wouldn't make a difference it looks as bad after as it did before!!
I have an old 12 gauge that was my great uncles, its a Noble model 60 that he bought at Montgomery Wards back in the 60's. The bluing isnt bad, its just really faded on the mag tube where the pump rubs and it has various light surface rust in areas. I dont want to strip it completely, Can I wipe it down with the Birchwood Casey rust remover just to clean the surface (not stripping it to bare steel) and just use the Birchwood Casey Perma-Blue to darken it and give it a refreshed finish? I think that would work just fine, anyone have any suggestions? The gun just has a lot of sentimental value and I want to give it a nice refresh, not a full restoration.
Yes, I would use a heat gun or hair dryer (I use a butane torch) to draw out all moisture.
USE GLOVES, don't want ANY oils on or in the surface. Wipe it on, rinse it off.. I've touched up my Sig Sauer pistols with it. PERMA Blue is what I've used for touch up. It will wear off again.
Are you crazy the 4440 was left on way to long it started to rust deep. The birchwood casey is not as strong. It's a little more forgiving. You need to stay away from the heat and only blue the scratch. Its called cold bluing for a reason.
Perfect timing, going to cold blue a 1911 I have.
Thanks. Very usefull info.
What's different about the process/chemicals between cold bluing and what you might do to a new barrel or a re-blue project?
Will it work on small rust scratches nothing too deep just the surface of the barrel on the front end near the muzzle
Excellent videos
in your oxpho blue video you felt that you could do a decent job of rebluing an entire barrel. do you still think that's true, or have you changed your mind with experience?
Perfect timing on this video, this was something I wanted to learn about, however how well with it work on a firearm with some old rust spots i've already steel wool-ed away, Is it a good idea to try to use the cold blue to attempt the rust from reappearing or the finish getting any worse, or will it just cover up the underlying problems, sorry if this question seems dumb, I'm just new to the bluing process.
It also goes by the general term tooling blue, and is a form of oxidation (as he said rust in layman's terms).
Anyone who chucks machine thread screws in a drill motor, is risking damage to the threads. The real problem w/ this is damaging the female threads on the gun when forcing it into the hole.
nice video and good choice about the drill...:)
After blueing the scratch what do you wash it with
Eric In the deep scratches could you feather sand it first to help blend it
Is cold blueing enough for an old magazine tube on a 1960s wingmaster thats all discolored?
ok i have a browning auto 5 shot gun that has ware marks on the barrel from a lot of use wood this be a good slootion for it