I’m a woodworker and a furniture flipper. So I’m usually painting furniture. But I found your channel and find your videos very helpful. I do plan on painting my shop as well. So that does fit in. But I just find watching you paint a room fascinating. thanks for sharing.
A new entrant to spraying after watching your informative posts. Keep it up please. Following an excellent Painttech course and Sprayman purchase of a Grace GXFF plus extras I’m in the game !Never go back. So much easier despite the relaxing masking. Thanks
Wow that’s so kind of you to say and it pleases me to hear you’ve been inspired.. you’ve invested in an excellent unit in the GXFF 💙 ..please keep in touch, would love to hear about your successes, and I’m happy to help and advise if I can.. regards Pete
Man Pete , I swear you make spraying everything look like the best option . When I go into a job and tell myself I’m going to spray this job , about 2 hours Into masking I tell myself …… “ damn I could have already rolled this area and cut it in “ …. It never seems like much masking until you start masking . Then tape these days in the states is getting crazy expensive . I’m easily spending 100 + just on tape these days .
Thank you for the kind words my brother 🙏 I know what you’re saying - I spray all woodwork / trim, and ceilings.. but sometimes opt to brush / roll the walls on smaller jobs.. you do get quicker at masking, like anything.. but it’s about the balance of integrating spraying for quality, speed and efficiency Vs is it feasible to mask and protect some projects 🤔 ..you’re doing great my friend 🙏 keep in touch, I’m always happy to help and advise if I possibly can.. regards Pete 🇺🇸❤️
Nice video Pete and a great example of how even small jobs can be executed as good if not better than a brush and roller. It's about changing your mindset and working practise with spraying over rolling I think. Especially in small domestic projects. The finish is so much nicer and professional looking too.
Good to hear you explain things now Pete, makes the videos even better. Got a cabinet build coming up soon so looking forward to getting the sprayer out again. Do you ever get asked to spray furniture? Would make a good video too
Hey Steve, really appreciate the feedback.. yeah I’ve always wanted to add another dimension to explain and get more information across.. that’s a very good topic to cover, it’s on my list and I’ve got some ideas on how to put a video together.. good luck, let me know how you get on.. regards Pete
Hi Pete In marketing there is a phrase that I really like "Better good than fast" and it is something we have in common. I also work alone. Thanks for the tips. Best regards.
Hey brother 🤍 ..haha yes, my systainer is not always that organised 😆 ..I order via Amazon buddy, if you have Amazon Prime it’s possible you can get same day / next day delivery, even weekends.. it’s been really handy for a last minute stock up.. I’ll give you a call in the week, see how your spraying success is going.. regards Pete
I can’t say too much right now, I’m guided by Graco EMEA and I await their talented marketing team to give the green light in Europe.. what I can say is, exciting times ahead my friend ..I’ll update you as soon as I can, I’m looking forward to showcasing the latest innovative Graco professional airless technology 💙⚡️ ..regards Pete
Hi Pete.. great content as always! I wanted a bit of advice. I was thinking about spraying outdoors (peddledash house) I have a Wagner control pro 350. How would you approach spraying exterior houses ? Should I consider dropping my tip size say to a 417/419 ? Also does graco LP tips work on a Wagner control pro 350 if I have the graco guard ?
Hi Jamie.. you’re so kind.. happy to help if I can.. I can confirm the 7/8” Graco RAC X tip guard will fit the ControlPro gun and as you say will take Graco LP and FF LP tips.. of which both low pressure tips should atomise paint via the 350M pump 👍 ..I’ve tended to still use a 5xx tip (10” fan), abs I’ve had success with a 515 spraying Johnstones Stormshield 👍 ..pebble dash can be tricky, the deep hollows don’t take the transfer of sprayed paint well.. it can be done though and much much quicker than brush.. there’s 2 strategies you can try to see what works for you.. relatively low pressure so the paint don’t fully atomise, you’ll have tails but you won’t see them.. the lower pressure reduces bounce back, helpful if it’s a windy day 👍 ..you may need to back brush (or roll) to work the paint in.. or you could try higher pressure to ‘drive the paint in’, but it will bounce back, not good if it’s windy and you’ll use more paint 👍 ..a good tool is the Graco JetRoller, because you get best of both worlds and overspray is greatly reduced when spraying outside because you spray on the downstroke at reduced pressure and the roller catches the bounce back 👍 note however the inline gun that cones with the JetRoller will not fit the ControlPro proprietary size hose.. the 7/8” pole attachment will fit the ControlPro gun.. same for the Graco pressure roller, it’s a handy tool for outside work, the 7/8” fitting will fit 👍 Hope this helps, apologies if I’ve confused you 🙈 regards Pete
Great job Pete,your so organised with spraying and have it down to a fine art,do you ever spray anti mould paint on bathroom ceilings like the permawhite?or can that be sprayed,I'm sure it can
Hi Eddie, thank you so much my friend.. yeah Permawhite is very good, and I get a lot of feedback from others about how well it sprays.. the Johnstones Acrylic I’m using in this video is moisture and mould resistant, and has a class 2 scrub rating, whilst remaining a flat matt ..it’s thick so benefits from a little easing but sprays very nice.. cost effective Vs Permawhite 👍 ..hope you’re keeping well, great to hear from you.. regards Pete
hi mate i love the step by step with tape and film build it makes life so much easier ... i need some advice i seen customer yesterday they want there kitchen cabinets painted i know what primer and top coat to you but i have a issue they have build in cooker just above it is cupnoard door but cause of cookers heat the factory film/plastic is bubbling on it how do i go about spraying it?
Hey Gareth, always a pleasure my friend.. ah nice job, you’re doing great.. I know it’s possible to delaminate, but I don’t have experience personally to give you definitive direction.. if it was me, I’d be totally transparent with the customer and see what their expectations are .. ie you could attempt stripping back the laminate but you couldn’t give a guarantee, or you could cut away the damaged area and fill / repair.. but again no guarantee how the heat would affect the area again in future.. also how the paint will hold up to the heat, it’s a tricky one to make right.. so yeah as always, run it by your customer.. I’d be interested how it pans out for you.. good luck, like I say you’re doing great 👏👏👏
Hi Pete. I have a new home that we are remodeling before we move into. The old paint is oil based. I was told to use an oil based primer in order to switch over to latex. Everything needs primed, ceilings, trim, and walls. Besides the floors and fixtures, do I need to mask anything in order to spray everything with the same stuff? Second question- Should I mask off the metal frames around the windows and go back afterward and spray them with a paint spray can instead of this oil based primer? All the old windows still open and close with ease, and I'd like to keep it that way. I will be using an airless sprayer for the first time ever. It has a 515 tip. What pressure should I use? I'll be starting in a back bedroom as I realize there will be a learning curve to overcome.
Apologies for my delayed response, I will always do my best to reply my friend.. I'd be inclined to use a waterborne acrylic primer before acrylic / latex emulsions and topcoats on trim.. I've you're looking to spray everything (possibly back rolling walls, if this is your preference ).. The order I would go, after preparation is.. woodwork / trim, next day mask off and spray / back roll walls up onto ceiling, then final day mask the ceiling cut line with 99" plastic film (protects walls and baseboards), before spraying the ceiling in last.. it's very satisfying and the result / finish is awesome.. I'd stick with a 515 for walls (and ceiling), using a Graco LP 515 if you can, but trim / woodwork is most likely a FF LP 310 (I like a 308 but II'm spraying very low viscosity / spray only waterborne industrial coatings).. the pressure is hard to say, it depends on the material, temperature etc.. for latex / wall / ceiling paint, I'd guess you.ll be around 1400 psi with a LP tip.. start at 1200 and spray a test on brown masking paper.. if you don't have an even fan with feathered edges (tails are lines either side), up the pressure to 1400, then 1600, 1800, etc until the tails are gone.. I.m not familiar with the metal windows (for sure), but ir does make sense to protect / mask off and treat with a suitable product afterwards.. sorry, your logic sounds right, thinking about the windows open and close nicely.. Hope this reaches you in time.. It makes sense to practice one room.. take your time and enjoy the process.. all the very best my friend, keep in touch, would love to hear how you get on.. where about are you located my friend?.. regards Pete
Hey Pete, if you were spraying a stairwell in a building, how would you do it? would you spray the railings/ spindles on each floor first, or would you spray the metal panels on the sides of the stairs? I was just on a job where they sprayed the panels all the way down, then rolled the railings. but of course the painted panels were not protected with paper or plastic and of course drips from the railing hit the panels.
Hello my friend.. yeah, if I’m understanding correct.. I would spray the spindles / railing last etc first, then wrap / protect the sprayed finish when moving onto wall areas 👍 ..hope this helps, happy to help and advise if I can.. I will always get back to you.. regards Pete
two question. do u apply the two coat at the same day ? if you do ,, how much time u let between coat. and another question . which is the difference between 515 and 517 ? is the same ? like works? or is better 515?
Yes my friend, 2 coats on the same day.. approx 2 hours, with good air flow and drying conditions 👍 both the same fan with (10”), but the 517 will let out more material (greater fluid flow), and typically a .017 tip is used for thicker materials.. I prefer the LP 515, less fluid flow, you can potentially move slower, so gain more control of the gun 👍
Do you recommend backrolling the mistcoat/seal coat on new plaster and is it okay not to backroll topcoats?? Would the texture from seal coat come through on topcoats, and help if I ever need to touch up with a roller in future or does the topcoat need to be backrolled to be able to do future touchups with ease?
Good question my friend.. no you wouldn’t need to back roll the mist coat.. only back roll the final top coat (if you require / customer requests).. so basically you can spray the primer / mist coat, spray one top coat and spray then back roll the very last coat (if required) 👍 I personally prefer an all sprayed finish 👍 keep in touch my friend, great to have your input.. regards Pete
Hi John, great to hear from you.. warming the paint via hot water out the tap, certainly helps it ease / lower the viscosity during the colder winter months.. lowering the viscosity will help atomise the paint and spray at a lower pressure.. lap lines could be ‘tails’ in the pattern (you need to up the spray pressure and / or move up a tip orifice size), or it could be the paint, or simply not overlapping passes by 50%.. hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete
Great to hear from you buddy - happy Independence Day 🇺🇸💙👏👏👏 - it’s a good point. In the UK, I myself spray a lot of residential / furnished interiors, so I’m just looking to ease the paint from of thick emulsions (latex), just so I can lower the pressure a little. I’d only thin 10% max with water, that can mean dropping the pressure around 200 psi - may not sound a lot but it helps massively reduce bounce back / paint going in the eyes when spraying ceilings and ultimately less overspray - I don’t thin trim paints, unless oil like you say - if I was in bigger properties, not furnished, perhaps new construction, I would also use a bigger pump (rig), bigger tip size and probably not think about thinning - great to hear about your experience, I love and admire the popularity of airless spraying in the US, it’s been inspiring for us in Europe and the UK. It’s now starting to get very popular, professional and even DIY markets - keep up the good work brother 💙🇺🇸
Do you ever backroll . What’s your opinion on it . I used to feel it defeated the purpose of spraying until that one job came where it killed me on touch ups when holes were cut later down the rd
Thank you kind sir.. I’m pretty sure it’s this one, it’s the deeper one that I keep my Kip masking in.. Festool Systainer SYS3 M 337 Hope you’re keeping well my friend.. regards Pete
Great video as always Pete, not jumped too much into spraying yet! I have a Graco ultramax which I have dabbled with a couple of times. Out of interest what is the worklight you are using? Many Thanks
Hi Grant, really appreciate you supporting the channel.. and great to hear that you own the Graco UltraMax 💙 ..this is the area light I’m using, I’ve become a fan of DeWALT cordless tools off the back of Graco’s cordless technology 😆 DeWalt DEWDCL074 18V XR Tool Connect Area Light Keep in touch, great to have your contribution 💙 regards Pete
Painting is always mostly prep, but spraying definitely requires more. I think what would determine whether or not to spray is the desired outcome. In my experience, higher-sheen, especially in areas with strong angled light benefit from spraying which gives you the finest finish void of roller/brush marks. I imagine, given the marble, that the idea was to keep that glass-like aesthetic all the way through.
Thanks for your input my friend 🙏 ..You’re right about preparation for spraying, but like anything you get quicker.. then you make up time because spraying is so quick.. ceilings for example take ‘minutes’, plus you can push the boundaries with drying times, because unlike a brush/roller nothing is touching the painted surface 👍 ..keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Agreed. Any chance I get, I at least spray ceilings. I'm going to start incorporating a HEPA Air Scrubber as well to take care of the silica dust. Any other recommendations on ways you mitigate fallout (tips, paint, etc)?
You’re very wise my friend.. with straight airless the trick to minimise fallout / bounce back, is to spray at the lowest possible pressure to effectively atomise the paint.. alongside technique (distance and keeping gun square to surface).. I typically spray with a LP 515, then I look to ‘ease the flow’, by thinning a max 10% with warm water.. on that note, a heated hose would help lower pressure and reduce fallout / bounce back 👍 ..also going Air Assisted Airless would improve efficiency considerably.. but I can appreciate the cost involved with heated hoses and AAA 😆 ..good idea regarding an air scrubber, it certainly interests me.. I like the look of the MAXVAC Systainer 😆 ..keep in touch my friend, always great to get your input 🙏 regards Pete 💙
Hi Pete, couple of questions if that’s ok. I’ve sprayed a few ceilings lately with my GX21 using Tikkurila AR2 and a 517 tip around 1500psi but I’m getting a lot of overspray and using more paint then what I would if I was rolling. Can you give me any tips to improve my technique ? Seems to be fine on the walls it’s more the ceilings is where it gets messy. Thanks.
Hey Kevin, happy to help and advise if I can my friend.. you could try a LP 617, whilst it’s a wider fan, the material is spread wider too so a thinner coat.. or a LP 515 👍 ..the .015 orifice is considerably lower in flow Vs a .017 (517).. so again a thinner coat.. that’s the 2 tip sizesI tend to use on ceilings 👍 .. then just double check your distance and you’re not too close, which will result in more path bouncing back.. also keep in the gun square to the ceiling, any arcing will reduce the transfer efficiency and result in more overspray / fall out ..hope this helps, let me know how you get on 🙏 regards Pete
Hi pete, im new to your channel and ive been trying to find information on the Graco X5, it what i could afford atm and i was wondering if i could use the x5 with a tritech guard and 308/208 tip, i see in your videos that you need very high preassure for those tips to attomise properly and im not sure if the graco x5 can do the job, i was also considering the FFLP tips since they spray at a lower pressure. I spray cabinets for context, greatly appreciate your opinion.
Hey buddy, I’m more than happy to help and advise if I can.. certainly the TriTech Ultra tips are not low pressure and the smaller .008 orifice take some pressure to fire the pigmented coatings through.. I’m not exactly familiar with the X5, but if I’m right the pump is comparable to the pump in the GX21 (a GX unit in the UK, same pump but a different gearing to the GX19).. the GX21 takes a max tip .021 Vs GX19 a max .019.. like I say I’m not sure of the X5 spec without looking it up.. but I can say when I tested the TriTech Ultra 208 with the GX21 the pressure was maxed out 🙈 ..The Graco FF LP .008 tips.. 208 and 308 are a different result.. the pressure is incredibly low when I spray low viscosity waterborne industrial coatings.. 800 / 900 psi (900 psi is a high build primer).. the fine atomisation coupled with low pressure spraying is incredible.. apologies for my lengthy explanation, just trying to give some background.. in my opinion if you’re looking at the X5, you won’t regret the Graco 208 or308 tips, they’re my favourite 💙 Keep in touch, would love to hear about your experiences.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you very much for your time i will take your advice and go for the FFLP. Btw do you have a video on the difference between guns, i dont see much information out there but i see a lot of painters use the tritech gun.
You’re very welcome.. I’ll be honest, I’ve used the TriTech T380 2 finger gun, and it is a well made gun, solid in construction.. perhaps a little heavy and like others say it’s cold in the winter (especially in the cold winters of the UK 😆).. with you looking to spray fine finishes, I’d seriously look at the Graco Contractor PC Compact, it’s a light, ingenious design that fits like no other in your hand.. it’s the lightest 2 finger trigger pull.. it has been on sale with a free 1.4m 1/8” whip hose, as far as I’m aware this is the smallest whip on the market.. my advise is see if you can feel it in your hand at a distributor, you’ll fall in love with it 💙 regards Pete
Hi Mike, thanks for your question my friend.. trust me I’ve painted many bathroom ceilings manually over the years.. mist coating and going round and round building up the opacity, cutting in a straight line against a fully tiled rough grout line.. then awkward corners under a shower head (whilst water in the shower drips and soaks me).. It’s not fun 😆 When you consider manually painting, you still need to protect all fixtures, fittings, furniture.. a roller cause more ‘splatter’ than a spray application.. Masking takes approx 30 minutes, including a clean round and taking your time to mask a perfect line along the grout.. by design 2.6 metre drop of plastic film covers everything.. then spraying a small ceiling like this takes 2 minutes per coat.. it’s mind blowing.. the perfect line you get from masking is razor sharp.. wherever you put the tape will be a precise line.. as good as cutting in with a brush can be, you can’t beat a masked / sprayed line.. then the sprayed finish is flawless 💙 All the best buddy.. regards Pete
I don’t recall this specific job - I aim to leave an even amount of grout showing around the ceiling cut line.. it could be a very uneven run of tiles, rarely on these occasions I pinch a bit to give the illusion of an even grout line.. is that what you’re referring to? Otherwise I apologise if I’m not getting what you mean 👍 regards Pete 💙💯
@@PaintHQ Great video Pete. You provide so much details in what you do! If there were not tiles on the wall would you spray the paint on the wall right to the ceiling without leaving a 1/4" gap you did in this room? I have seen pro's like yourself say they always paint with that 1/4" down on the wall or do you paint the wall and ceiling to the border where they meet?
@daryn_Canada_1066 Hey Daryn, you’re so kind, I appreciate you watching 👏 ..If I understand the question correctly - if I was spraying (painting) walls.. I’d spray up onto the ceiling, then the next day (walks are dry) I’d mask the ceiling cut line - I’d choose a line where the wall meets the ceiling at a right angle .. then a bit like cutting in with a brush it can be beneficial to the eye that the wall colour goes onto the ceiling a minuscule fraction - so I follow this line with the tape, it’s an absolute fraction Vs the ceiling colour showing on the wall, to the eye it can create a wavy uneven cut line .. Hope that makes sense 😄 happy to help and advise any time 💙💯 regards Pete
@daryn_Canada_1066 Anytime my friend 🙏 ..I do use a Cleanshot on higher ceilings and/or if I’m needing a gun extension to reach - being tall, I’m often ok.. if I recall in this video, I was able to trigger off and on to the masking 👍 a Graco Cleanshot is the only way to stop a spit when using a tip extension ..regards Pete
Apologies, just seen this.. I pretty much go straight on with the the top coats.. just enough time to flush through the mist coat and get the top coat prepared in the sprayer.. all the best buddy.. regards Pete
Pete. Can I ask why you chose the sprayer you used over the cordless ultra you have and thank you for all the videos you make. I’ve always been a nervous paint sprayer especially in a domestic setting but watching your work using sprayers has given me the confidence to get back into using my sprayers. Thank you.
Hi Andrew, I’m glad you asked that.. I was smiling to myself filming the video.. you’re absolutely right, a small project like this is perfect for a battery powered cordless, more portable unit.. using the conventional airless sprayer was my way of demonstrating the fundamentals of airless spraying, using a tip extension, spraying in tight spaces, flexibility of using a conventional gun and more importantly, spray technique.. plus I love spraying, the setup, the cleanup.. why do I love spraying?.. with a methodical preparation and masking, the spraying part is quick and easy, less taxing on the body, quicker overall.. and the masked lines and finish is mind blowing 💙 Great question, thanks for the kind words of support my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you Pete. I think I’ve watched most of your videos. The one which convinced me to return to spraying was the one where you masked up a door casing prior to spraying. It was definitely a light bulb moment. Keep up the brilliant work and I look forward the the next instalment of @PaintHQ
Great to hear from you in Madrid 🇪🇸💙 ..Thanks for your input my friend.. I understand your way of thinking.. typically a 310 is the woodwork / trim paints, going on the smaller .010” orifice size.. a 515 or 517 is used for thicker emulsion / latex ceiling and wall paints.. .015” and .017” being a bigger orifice size.. then the material is spread over a 10” fan width.. if for example a 315 was chosen, it can be used but you would have to move much quicker because the amount of material over a 6” fan.. basically it’s a trade off between width / overspray and the thickness of coating across the chosen fan width 👍 keep in touch my friend, great to get your input.. regards Pete 💙💯
Hey Tony.. thank you so much.. the mist coat pretty much sinks straight in, so I get the topcoat ready, circulating it through the sprayer (shown in the video).. so by the time they is done the first topcoat is ready to go.. I spray one way, have a breather and whip over it the other way.. that’s the beauty of spraying, it doesn’t have to be 100% dry like with a roller touching the surface.. you can push the boundaries.. don’t coat acrylics too thick though, you could get crazing when drying .. great question, thank you.. regards Pete
I get your dilemma.. trust me I’ve painted many bathroom ceilings manually over the years.. mist coating and going round and round building up the opacity, cutting in a straight line against a fully tiled rough grout line.. then awkward corners under a shower head (whilst water in the shower drips and soaks me).. It’s not fun 😆 Masking takes approx 30 minutes, including a clean round and taking your time to mask a perfect line along the grout.. spraying a small ceiling like this takes 2 minutes per coat.. it’s mind blowing.. then the perfect line you get from masking is razor sharp.. wherever you put the tape will be a precise line.. as good as cutting in with a brush can be, you can’t beat a masked / sprayed line.. then the sprayed finish is flawless 💙 I get how you’re thinking, like everything in any trade, it’s all a learning curve and you get quicker the more you practice.. All the best buddy, regards Pete
Yes my friend.. spits are minimal with a small 25cm extension, but yeah you’re right spits will occur without using a cleanshot.. what I do is trigger off and on the masking 👍 ..hope you’re keeping well buddy.. regards Pete
@PaintHQ yes all is God's, I know how to work and live spits on plastic And always disentangle how match is job estimated, cost . Art doing olso please but everybody's need to eating.
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![[HOW TO] Setup Your Airless Paint Sprayer [Get INSPIRED]](/img/tr.png)
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I’m a woodworker and a furniture flipper. So I’m usually painting furniture. But I found your channel and find your videos very helpful. I do plan on painting my shop as well. So that does fit in. But I just find watching you paint a room fascinating. thanks for sharing.
Очень правильные видео! Спасибо что делитесь! Много чего для себя отметил для работы.
Вы так добры, большое спасибо за поддержку .. рад, что видео помогли, я рад помочь в любое время .. с уважением Пит
Evening, Pete. Great tips for the people. Loving the narration on this. Have a great week ahead.
Hey Freddie, thank you so much for your kind feedback.. hope you’re keeping well and having plenty of spraying success 💯
Hi Pete really appreciate and enjoy your videos always learn something new thankyou
That’s very kind of you to say, means a lot, thank you 💙
Thanks Pete another tip learned to tape plastic drop flim down
Thank you for your continued support, very kind of you🙏
A new entrant to spraying after watching your informative posts. Keep it up please. Following an excellent Painttech course and Sprayman purchase of a Grace GXFF plus extras I’m in the game !Never go back. So much easier despite the relaxing masking. Thanks
Wow that’s so kind of you to say and it pleases me to hear you’ve been inspired.. you’ve invested in an excellent unit in the GXFF 💙 ..please keep in touch, would love to hear about your successes, and I’m happy to help and advise if I can.. regards Pete
Hi Pete , always enjoy watching your videos great detail and content 👍
Hey Anna, thank you so much, really appreciate the kind words of support 💙 regards Pete
Man Pete ,
I swear you make spraying everything look like the best option . When I go into a job and tell myself I’m going to spray this job , about 2 hours Into masking I tell myself …… “ damn I could have already rolled this area and cut it in “ …. It never seems like much masking until you start masking . Then tape these days in the states is getting crazy expensive . I’m easily spending 100 + just on tape these days .
Thank you for the kind words my brother 🙏 I know what you’re saying - I spray all woodwork / trim, and ceilings.. but sometimes opt to brush / roll the walls on smaller jobs.. you do get quicker at masking, like anything.. but it’s about the balance of integrating spraying for quality, speed and efficiency Vs is it feasible to mask and protect some projects 🤔 ..you’re doing great my friend 🙏 keep in touch, I’m always happy to help and advise if I possibly can.. regards Pete 🇺🇸❤️
Eso es así. Mejor tapar que limpiar.
Nice video Pete and a great example of how even small jobs can be executed as good if not better than a brush and roller. It's about changing your mindset and working practise with spraying over rolling I think. Especially in small domestic projects. The finish is so much nicer and professional looking too.
Thank you Kevin.. we think alike my friend 💙 ..you’re an excellent sprayer 💯
Yet another excellent video.... 👍🏻
Thank you brother, appreciate that 💙
@@PaintHQ I've sent you a message on buymeacoffee......
I’ve just replied to you Craig 👍
Lovely videos - all of them are thanks buddy.
You’re so kind, thank you so much 🙏💙💯
Good to hear you explain things now Pete, makes the videos even better. Got a cabinet build coming up soon so looking forward to getting the sprayer out again. Do you ever get asked to spray furniture? Would make a good video too
Hey Steve, really appreciate the feedback.. yeah I’ve always wanted to add another dimension to explain and get more information across.. that’s a very good topic to cover, it’s on my list and I’ve got some ideas on how to put a video together.. good luck, let me know how you get on.. regards Pete
Hi Pete
In marketing there is a phrase that I really like "Better good than fast" and it is something we have in common.
I also work alone.
Thanks for the tips.
Best regards.
Hey Enrique, that’s such a cool phrase, love it.. thanks for sharing my friend.. you’re doing great 💯
Hi Pete, great content and well made video. Thanks for sharing it. 👍👌
Hi Allan, you’re absolute diamond.. thank you 🙏
Nice short video Pete👍🏻
Thank you Andrew 🙏
Quality work Pete 👌
Thank you, you’re so kind 🙏💙👍
Thank you! Very helpful!❤
🙏💙💯
Thanks Pete! Great video!
Thank you very much 🙏 regards Pete 💙💯
Hi buddy hope your well the Kip tape and film judging by your tape box your using it a fair bit now can I ask where you get it from COYS
Hey brother 🤍 ..haha yes, my systainer is not always that organised 😆 ..I order via Amazon buddy, if you have Amazon Prime it’s possible you can get same day / next day delivery, even weekends.. it’s been really handy for a last minute stock up.. I’ll give you a call in the week, see how your spraying success is going.. regards Pete
Sincere thanks 😊 Bless Up Always
Beija my brother 💙 thank you, as always appreciate your continued support 💯
Hi Pete thoughts on the Graco Quickshot Not much on UA-cam about it ?
I can’t say too much right now, I’m guided by Graco EMEA and I await their talented marketing team to give the green light in Europe.. what I can say is, exciting times ahead my friend ..I’ll update you as soon as I can, I’m looking forward to showcasing the latest innovative Graco professional airless technology 💙⚡️ ..regards Pete
Hi Pete.. great content as always! I wanted a bit of advice. I was thinking about spraying outdoors (peddledash house) I have a Wagner control pro 350. How would you approach spraying exterior houses ? Should I consider dropping my tip size say to a 417/419 ? Also does graco LP tips work on a Wagner control pro 350 if I have the graco guard ?
Hi Jamie.. you’re so kind.. happy to help if I can.. I can confirm the 7/8” Graco RAC X tip guard will fit the ControlPro gun and as you say will take Graco LP and FF LP tips.. of which both low pressure tips should atomise paint via the 350M pump 👍 ..I’ve tended to still use a 5xx tip (10” fan), abs I’ve had success with a 515 spraying Johnstones Stormshield 👍 ..pebble dash can be tricky, the deep hollows don’t take the transfer of sprayed paint well.. it can be done though and much much quicker than brush.. there’s 2 strategies you can try to see what works for you.. relatively low pressure so the paint don’t fully atomise, you’ll have tails but you won’t see them.. the lower pressure reduces bounce back, helpful if it’s a windy day 👍 ..you may need to back brush (or roll) to work the paint in.. or you could try higher pressure to ‘drive the paint in’, but it will bounce back, not good if it’s windy and you’ll use more paint 👍 ..a good tool is the Graco JetRoller, because you get best of both worlds and overspray is greatly reduced when spraying outside because you spray on the downstroke at reduced pressure and the roller catches the bounce back 👍 note however the inline gun that cones with the JetRoller will not fit the ControlPro proprietary size hose.. the 7/8” pole attachment will fit the ControlPro gun.. same for the Graco pressure roller, it’s a handy tool for outside work, the 7/8” fitting will fit 👍
Hope this helps, apologies if I’ve confused you 🙈 regards Pete
Great job Pete,your so organised with spraying and have it down to a fine art,do you ever spray anti mould paint on bathroom ceilings like the permawhite?or can that be sprayed,I'm sure it can
Hi Eddie, thank you so much my friend.. yeah Permawhite is very good, and I get a lot of feedback from others about how well it sprays.. the Johnstones Acrylic I’m using in this video is moisture and mould resistant, and has a class 2 scrub rating, whilst remaining a flat matt ..it’s thick so benefits from a little easing but sprays very nice.. cost effective Vs Permawhite 👍 ..hope you’re keeping well, great to hear from you.. regards Pete
Pete... I heard a voice!!! :D
Haha, yes my friend 😆
hi mate i love the step by step with tape and film build it makes life so much easier ... i need some advice i seen customer yesterday they want there kitchen cabinets painted i know what primer and top coat to you but i have a issue they have build in cooker just above it is cupnoard door but cause of cookers heat the factory film/plastic is bubbling on it how do i go about spraying it?
Hey Gareth, always a pleasure my friend.. ah nice job, you’re doing great.. I know it’s possible to delaminate, but I don’t have experience personally to give you definitive direction.. if it was me, I’d be totally transparent with the customer and see what their expectations are .. ie you could attempt stripping back the laminate but you couldn’t give a guarantee, or you could cut away the damaged area and fill / repair.. but again no guarantee how the heat would affect the area again in future.. also how the paint will hold up to the heat, it’s a tricky one to make right.. so yeah as always, run it by your customer.. I’d be interested how it pans out for you.. good luck, like I say you’re doing great 👏👏👏
@@PaintHQ thank you mate for your feed back 🙏
Anytime brother 💙
Hi Pete.
I have a new home that we are remodeling before we move into. The old paint is oil based. I was told to use an oil based primer in order to switch over to latex. Everything needs primed, ceilings, trim, and walls. Besides the floors and fixtures, do I need to mask anything in order to spray everything with the same stuff?
Second question-
Should I mask off the metal frames around the windows and go back afterward and spray them with a paint spray can instead of this oil based primer? All the old windows still open and close with ease, and I'd like to keep it that way.
I will be using an airless sprayer for the first time ever. It has a 515 tip. What pressure should I use? I'll be starting in a back bedroom as I realize there will be a learning curve to overcome.
Apologies for my delayed response, I will always do my best to reply my friend.. I'd be inclined to use a waterborne acrylic primer before acrylic / latex emulsions and topcoats on trim.. I've you're looking to spray everything (possibly back rolling walls, if this is your preference ).. The order I would go, after preparation is.. woodwork / trim, next day mask off and spray / back roll walls up onto ceiling, then final day mask the ceiling cut line with 99" plastic film (protects walls and baseboards), before spraying the ceiling in last.. it's very satisfying and the result / finish is awesome.. I'd stick with a 515 for walls (and ceiling), using a Graco LP 515 if you can, but trim / woodwork is most likely a FF LP 310 (I like a 308 but II'm spraying very low viscosity / spray only waterborne industrial coatings).. the pressure is hard to say, it depends on the material, temperature etc.. for latex / wall / ceiling paint, I'd guess you.ll be around 1400 psi with a LP tip.. start at 1200 and spray a test on brown masking paper.. if you don't have an even fan with feathered edges (tails are lines either side), up the pressure to 1400, then 1600, 1800, etc until the tails are gone.. I.m not familiar with the metal windows (for sure), but ir does make sense to protect / mask off and treat with a suitable product afterwards.. sorry, your logic sounds right, thinking about the windows open and close nicely..
Hope this reaches you in time.. It makes sense to practice one room.. take your time and enjoy the process.. all the very best my friend, keep in touch, would love to hear how you get on.. where about are you located my friend?.. regards Pete
Hey Pete, if you were spraying a stairwell in a building, how would you do it? would you spray the railings/ spindles on each floor first, or would you spray the metal panels on the sides of the stairs? I was just on a job where they sprayed the panels all the way down, then rolled the railings. but of course the painted panels were not protected with paper or plastic and of course drips from the railing hit the panels.
Hello my friend.. yeah, if I’m understanding correct.. I would spray the spindles / railing last etc first, then wrap / protect the sprayed finish when moving onto wall areas 👍 ..hope this helps, happy to help and advise if I can.. I will always get back to you.. regards Pete
two question. do u apply the two coat at the same day ? if you do ,, how much time u let between coat. and another question . which is the difference between 515 and 517 ? is the same ? like works? or is better 515?
Yes my friend, 2 coats on the same day.. approx 2 hours, with good air flow and drying conditions 👍 both the same fan with (10”), but the 517 will let out more material (greater fluid flow), and typically a .017 tip is used for thicker materials.. I prefer the LP 515, less fluid flow, you can potentially move slower, so gain more control of the gun 👍
Do you recommend backrolling the mistcoat/seal coat on new plaster and is it okay not to backroll topcoats?? Would the texture from seal coat come through on topcoats, and help if I ever need to touch up with a roller in future or does the topcoat need to be backrolled to be able to do future touchups with ease?
Good question my friend.. no you wouldn’t need to back roll the mist coat.. only back roll the final top coat (if you require / customer requests).. so basically you can spray the primer / mist coat, spray one top coat and spray then back roll the very last coat (if required) 👍 I personally prefer an all sprayed finish 👍 keep in touch my friend, great to have your input.. regards Pete
Respect! 👍
Thank you brother 💙
Hello, master) I'm curious, how is your assessment of small premises, is it higher than small volumes or the same? Thank you) Good luck!
Does putting warm water in acrylic matt make it easier to spray with less lap lines cheers
Hi John, great to hear from you.. warming the paint via hot water out the tap, certainly helps it ease / lower the viscosity during the colder winter months.. lowering the viscosity will help atomise the paint and spray at a lower pressure.. lap lines could be ‘tails’ in the pattern (you need to up the spray pressure and / or move up a tip orifice size), or it could be the paint, or simply not overlapping passes by 50%.. hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete
Thanks for that cheers mate
You’re very welcome, I’m always happy to help if I can.. regards Pete
Is thinning your paint common in your area? I rarely thin, unless I’m spraying oil based paint. (Louisiana, US)
Great to hear from you buddy - happy Independence Day 🇺🇸💙👏👏👏 - it’s a good point. In the UK, I myself spray a lot of residential / furnished interiors, so I’m just looking to ease the paint from of thick emulsions (latex), just so I can lower the pressure a little. I’d only thin 10% max with water, that can mean dropping the pressure around 200 psi - may not sound a lot but it helps massively reduce bounce back / paint going in the eyes when spraying ceilings and ultimately less overspray - I don’t thin trim paints, unless oil like you say - if I was in bigger properties, not furnished, perhaps new construction, I would also use a bigger pump (rig), bigger tip size and probably not think about thinning - great to hear about your experience, I love and admire the popularity of airless spraying in the US, it’s been inspiring for us in Europe and the UK. It’s now starting to get very popular, professional and even DIY markets - keep up the good work brother 💙🇺🇸
@@PaintHQ thanks for sharing. Loved the video.
Do you ever backroll . What’s your opinion on it . I used to feel it defeated the purpose of spraying until that one job came where it killed me on touch ups when holes were cut later down the rd
No need to roll after for the finish?
No, I don’t typically back roll, certainly not on this job 👍 regards Pete 💙💯
Good job.
Did you mix by hand usualy or only this video for educational purpose?
Keep it like that.
Thank you so much.. yeah I mixed by hand (stirring stick) 😆 ..I mostly do it that way.. occasionally use an electric paddle 👍
Hi Pete, what size Festool Systainer have you got for masking tape. Great video 👌
Thank you kind sir.. I’m pretty sure it’s this one, it’s the deeper one that I keep my Kip masking in..
Festool Systainer SYS3 M 337
Hope you’re keeping well my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks for your reply Pete, I’m taking the plunge this week getting a Graco Handheld Cordless. 🤞
Ah very nice, great investment 💙
Great video as always Pete, not jumped too much into spraying yet! I have a Graco ultramax which I have dabbled with a couple of times. Out of interest what is the worklight you are using? Many Thanks
Hi Grant, really appreciate you supporting the channel.. and great to hear that you own the Graco UltraMax 💙 ..this is the area light I’m using, I’ve become a fan of DeWALT cordless tools off the back of Graco’s cordless technology 😆
DeWalt DEWDCL074 18V XR Tool Connect Area Light
Keep in touch, great to have your contribution 💙 regards Pete
I’m new to spraying but couldn’t imagine going through all that prep for such a small job??
Hi Alan.. thanks for your input and feedback my friend.. regards Pete 🙏
Painting is always mostly prep, but spraying definitely requires more. I think what would determine whether or not to spray is the desired outcome. In my experience, higher-sheen, especially in areas with strong angled light benefit from spraying which gives you the finest finish void of roller/brush marks. I imagine, given the marble, that the idea was to keep that glass-like aesthetic all the way through.
Thanks for your input my friend 🙏 ..You’re right about preparation for spraying, but like anything you get quicker.. then you make up time because spraying is so quick.. ceilings for example take ‘minutes’, plus you can push the boundaries with drying times, because unlike a brush/roller nothing is touching the painted surface 👍 ..keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Agreed. Any chance I get, I at least spray ceilings. I'm going to start incorporating a HEPA Air Scrubber as well to take care of the silica dust. Any other recommendations on ways you mitigate fallout (tips, paint, etc)?
You’re very wise my friend.. with straight airless the trick to minimise fallout / bounce back, is to spray at the lowest possible pressure to effectively atomise the paint.. alongside technique (distance and keeping gun square to surface).. I typically spray with a LP 515, then I look to ‘ease the flow’, by thinning a max 10% with warm water.. on that note, a heated hose would help lower pressure and reduce fallout / bounce back 👍 ..also going Air Assisted Airless would improve efficiency considerably.. but I can appreciate the cost involved with heated hoses and AAA 😆 ..good idea regarding an air scrubber, it certainly interests me.. I like the look of the MAXVAC Systainer 😆 ..keep in touch my friend, always great to get your input 🙏 regards Pete 💙
Hi Pete, couple of questions if that’s ok. I’ve sprayed a few ceilings lately with my GX21 using Tikkurila AR2 and a 517 tip around 1500psi but I’m getting a lot of overspray and using more paint then what I would if I was rolling. Can you give me any tips to improve my technique ? Seems to be fine on the walls it’s more the ceilings is where it gets messy. Thanks.
Hey Kevin, happy to help and advise if I can my friend.. you could try a LP 617, whilst it’s a wider fan, the material is spread wider too so a thinner coat.. or a LP 515 👍 ..the .015 orifice is considerably lower in flow Vs a .017 (517).. so again a thinner coat.. that’s the 2 tip sizesI tend to use on ceilings 👍 .. then just double check your distance and you’re not too close, which will result in more path bouncing back.. also keep in the gun square to the ceiling, any arcing will reduce the transfer efficiency and result in more overspray / fall out ..hope this helps, let me know how you get on 🙏 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks Pete, I’ll take a look at those tips next time and compare them to the one I’ve used.
Hi pete, im new to your channel and ive been trying to find information on the Graco X5, it what i could afford atm and i was wondering if i could use the x5 with a tritech guard and 308/208 tip, i see in your videos that you need very high preassure for those tips to attomise properly and im not sure if the graco x5 can do the job, i was also considering the FFLP tips since they spray at a lower pressure. I spray cabinets for context, greatly appreciate your opinion.
Hey buddy, I’m more than happy to help and advise if I can.. certainly the TriTech Ultra tips are not low pressure and the smaller .008 orifice take some pressure to fire the pigmented coatings through.. I’m not exactly familiar with the X5, but if I’m right the pump is comparable to the pump in the GX21 (a GX unit in the UK, same pump but a different gearing to the GX19).. the GX21 takes a max tip .021 Vs GX19 a max .019.. like I say I’m not sure of the X5 spec without looking it up.. but I can say when I tested the TriTech Ultra 208 with the GX21 the pressure was maxed out 🙈 ..The Graco FF LP .008 tips.. 208 and 308 are a different result.. the pressure is incredibly low when I spray low viscosity waterborne industrial coatings.. 800 / 900 psi (900 psi is a high build primer).. the fine atomisation coupled with low pressure spraying is incredible.. apologies for my lengthy explanation, just trying to give some background.. in my opinion if you’re looking at the X5, you won’t regret the Graco 208 or308 tips, they’re my favourite 💙 Keep in touch, would love to hear about your experiences.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you very much for your time i will take your advice and go for the FFLP.
Btw do you have a video on the difference between guns, i dont see much information out there but i see a lot of painters use the tritech gun.
You’re very welcome.. I’ll be honest, I’ve used the TriTech T380 2 finger gun, and it is a well made gun, solid in construction.. perhaps a little heavy and like others say it’s cold in the winter (especially in the cold winters of the UK 😆).. with you looking to spray fine finishes, I’d seriously look at the Graco Contractor PC Compact, it’s a light, ingenious design that fits like no other in your hand.. it’s the lightest 2 finger trigger pull.. it has been on sale with a free 1.4m 1/8” whip hose, as far as I’m aware this is the smallest whip on the market.. my advise is see if you can feel it in your hand at a distributor, you’ll fall in love with it 💙 regards Pete
Why would you choose to spray a small bathroom ceiling rather than brush and roll?
Hi Mike, thanks for your question my friend.. trust me I’ve painted many bathroom ceilings manually over the years.. mist coating and going round and round building up the opacity, cutting in a straight line against a fully tiled rough grout line.. then awkward corners under a shower head (whilst water in the shower drips and soaks me).. It’s not fun 😆
When you consider manually painting, you still need to protect all fixtures, fittings, furniture.. a roller cause more ‘splatter’ than a spray application.. Masking takes approx 30 minutes, including a clean round and taking your time to mask a perfect line along the grout.. by design 2.6 metre drop of plastic film covers everything.. then spraying a small ceiling like this takes 2 minutes per coat.. it’s mind blowing.. the perfect line you get from masking is razor sharp.. wherever you put the tape will be a precise line.. as good as cutting in with a brush can be, you can’t beat a masked / sprayed line.. then the sprayed finish is flawless 💙
All the best buddy.. regards Pete
Why do you also spray about 3mm of tile instead of making flush? Thanks
I don’t recall this specific job - I aim to leave an even amount of grout showing around the ceiling cut line.. it could be a very uneven run of tiles, rarely on these occasions I pinch a bit to give the illusion of an even grout line.. is that what you’re referring to? Otherwise I apologise if I’m not getting what you mean 👍 regards Pete 💙💯
@@PaintHQ Great video Pete. You provide so much details in what you do! If there were not tiles on the wall would you spray the paint on the wall right to the ceiling without leaving a 1/4" gap you did in this room? I have seen pro's like yourself say they always paint with that 1/4" down on the wall or do you paint the wall and ceiling to the border where they meet?
@daryn_Canada_1066 Hey Daryn, you’re so kind, I appreciate you watching 👏 ..If I understand the question correctly - if I was spraying (painting) walls.. I’d spray up onto the ceiling, then the next day (walks are dry) I’d mask the ceiling cut line - I’d choose a line where the wall meets the ceiling at a right angle .. then a bit like cutting in with a brush it can be beneficial to the eye that the wall colour goes onto the ceiling a minuscule fraction - so I follow this line with the tape, it’s an absolute fraction Vs the ceiling colour showing on the wall, to the eye it can create a wavy uneven cut line .. Hope that makes sense 😄 happy to help and advise any time 💙💯 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thanks for your response. Do you use the Graco Cleanshot? Do you think they are worth the money?
@daryn_Canada_1066 Anytime my friend 🙏 ..I do use a Cleanshot on higher ceilings and/or if I’m needing a gun extension to reach - being tall, I’m often ok.. if I recall in this video, I was able to trigger off and on to the masking 👍 a Graco Cleanshot is the only way to stop a spit when using a tip extension ..regards Pete
Pete, how long do you mature your mist coat?
Apologies, just seen this.. I pretty much go straight on with the the top coats.. just enough time to flush through the mist coat and get the top coat prepared in the sprayer.. all the best buddy.. regards Pete
Pete. Can I ask why you chose the sprayer you used over the cordless ultra you have and thank you for all the videos you make. I’ve always been a nervous paint sprayer especially in a domestic setting but watching your work using sprayers has given me the confidence to get back into using my sprayers. Thank you.
Hi Andrew, I’m glad you asked that.. I was smiling to myself filming the video.. you’re absolutely right, a small project like this is perfect for a battery powered cordless, more portable unit.. using the conventional airless sprayer was my way of demonstrating the fundamentals of airless spraying, using a tip extension, spraying in tight spaces, flexibility of using a conventional gun and more importantly, spray technique.. plus I love spraying, the setup, the cleanup.. why do I love spraying?.. with a methodical preparation and masking, the spraying part is quick and easy, less taxing on the body, quicker overall.. and the masked lines and finish is mind blowing 💙
Great question, thanks for the kind words of support my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you Pete. I think I’ve watched most of your videos. The one which convinced me to return to spraying was the one where you masked up a door casing prior to spraying. It was definitely a light bulb moment. Keep up the brilliant work and I look forward the the next instalment of @PaintHQ
Ah thank you buddy, glad it helped and helped you on your spraying journey.. we’re all learning all the time 💯
No hand masker?
No my friend.. lately I’ve preferred the pretaped plastic films and papers.. much easier to manoeuvre in tight small spaces 👌 regards Pete 💙💯
No straining the paint?
51510? What tip is that?
A Graco LP 515 my friend 👍
@@PaintHQ thank you amigo!
@@PaintHQ would you encounter spits if you were to use 410 with this product?
You’re very welcome, anytime 🙏 regards Pete
Sí. Correcto. Así se hace profesionalmente.
Lo unico que cambiaría es el tip con menos anchura. Un tip 310 LP.
Un saludo de Madrid.
Great to hear from you in Madrid 🇪🇸💙 ..Thanks for your input my friend.. I understand your way of thinking.. typically a 310 is the woodwork / trim paints, going on the smaller .010” orifice size.. a 515 or 517 is used for thicker emulsion / latex ceiling and wall paints.. .015” and .017” being a bigger orifice size.. then the material is spread over a 10” fan width.. if for example a 315 was chosen, it can be used but you would have to move much quicker because the amount of material over a 6” fan.. basically it’s a trade off between width / overspray and the thickness of coating across the chosen fan width 👍 keep in touch my friend, great to get your input.. regards Pete 💙💯
Love your patience so! important 👌
Thank you my friend, appreciate the support 💙💯
Pete how come seems like every time i see your videos feels like you have a new spraying gun? lol
Hi Flavio, haha you should see my Contractor PC Compact, it needs a good clean, it’s not looking so blue at the moment 🙈
Great video Pete. Can I ask how long you’d left the first coat before adding the second ? Many thanks
Hey Tony.. thank you so much.. the mist coat pretty much sinks straight in, so I get the topcoat ready, circulating it through the sprayer (shown in the video).. so by the time they is done the first topcoat is ready to go.. I spray one way, have a breather and whip over it the other way.. that’s the beauty of spraying, it doesn’t have to be 100% dry like with a roller touching the surface.. you can push the boundaries.. don’t coat acrylics too thick though, you could get crazing when drying .. great question, thank you.. regards Pete
A lot of messing about for a small ceiling good video but time is money. Im still on the fence with sprayers. Maybe its time to change 🤔
I get your dilemma.. trust me I’ve painted many bathroom ceilings manually over the years.. mist coating and going round and round building up the opacity, cutting in a straight line against a fully tiled rough grout line.. then awkward corners under a shower head (whilst water in the shower drips and soaks me).. It’s not fun 😆
Masking takes approx 30 minutes, including a clean round and taking your time to mask a perfect line along the grout.. spraying a small ceiling like this takes 2 minutes per coat.. it’s mind blowing.. then the perfect line you get from masking is razor sharp.. wherever you put the tape will be a precise line.. as good as cutting in with a brush can be, you can’t beat a masked / sprayed line.. then the sprayed finish is flawless 💙
I get how you’re thinking, like everything in any trade, it’s all a learning curve and you get quicker the more you practice.. All the best buddy, regards Pete
When you get into it, you'll see the benefits, sometimes it is time and is it worth setting up, but you learn when and where to suit your jobsm
no cleanshot- with stick get spitting
Yes my friend.. spits are minimal with a small 25cm extension, but yeah you’re right spits will occur without using a cleanshot.. what I do is trigger off and on the masking 👍 ..hope you’re keeping well buddy.. regards Pete
@PaintHQ yes all is God's, I know how to work and live spits on plastic And always disentangle how match is job estimated, cost .
Art doing olso please but everybody's need to eating.
Whats with the music 🙄
😄💙💯
Intro way too long bro.
Thanks for the feedback my friend 🙏💙💯
Not if you love the channel it’s not I could watch all day 👍🏻
101 😂
I don't get it...
Tips and tricks?
For the spitting is the solution 'trigger on the plastic film' 😫
One more of those wannabe pro's.
Buy a cleanshot!
So no tips😅
101 😂
💙💯