Very strange results with Mission Models paints. Is this a chance that paints you’ve received was spoiled? Paints that I have works well. I am usually thin them 90 % paint 10 % thinner and 1 drop of poly. Sometimes 15 - 20 %. I've noticed that you thinned 20 drops of yellow + 5 drops of white with 15 drops of thinner. It is approximately 40 % of thinner. Here is my recent project painted with them without any issues: www.flickr.com/photos/max-rossomachin/albums/72157716598809998
Let me tell you something, Uncle Night Shift. You have no need to apologize for your airbrushing skills, nor for using Tamiya paint. I have over 60 years modeling experience (started in 1959) and I CAN NOT STAND Vallejo paints and their ilk. I know there are people that swear by them. When I use Vallejo, I swear; usually a lot! There is a reason that Tamiya is a premier company. When I use Tamiya I have no worries about thinning, whether it will stick, or whether I can mask it. It does all of those things well. Plus, it is very cost effective. You can mix any color; camouflage, whatever you need. There are multiple recipes all over the net. At my age, I don't need the headaches that go along with a paint that won't stick, won't cover, or pulls up when you have to mask it. No. You did just fine! See you guys next week.
The red crosses are an interesting story, they were a pretty late war thing. The germans figured out (or made up) that the allies were aiming at them by pointing their sights at the white outline of the cross. As these were often on the sides and rear, and around where the crew was situated, the crews got a bit anxious about the obvious white outline. To ease their minds, the white outlines were painted over with red paint. That's why the red sometimes can appear a bit rough compared to the rest of the markings. There is a late-war StuG III at Aberdeen Proving grounds in the US that has its paint still intact, albeit very dirty, but with a red overpainted cross on the rear.
Funnily enough the same story is with the Americans and the White Star on their tanks being placed directly ontop of crew positions or ammo (namely the M4 Sherman series). German AT crews or tanks -after noticing the giant white star - would shoot the star or near it for a guaranteed kill/knockout so crews would paint over them in the field with a dark grey or black paint, making it a 'subdued' star or covering it with mud so it was harder for the enemy to see.
@@hex6970 I never understand why we continued with White Stars and lettering on our vehicles through the mid 70s. It’s not very tactical at all, go with black or grey lettering and Stars or dark Matt yellow like the U.S.M.C did.
@@Barabel22 While I cant answer why we used it for so long, it was phased out when the 3 Tone Camo was adopted. Though it most likely remained in service until 1975 as an easier way to identify friendly tanks as back then it wasnt as easy to keep track of whos who, I guess.
@@Barabel22 You don't put markings on a tank unless you want them to be seen. Knowing which of your tanks are which is more important than the enemy seeing some random writing that means nothing to them. If camoflauge is an issue you're going to have to do a lot more than just change the color of some writing on a 70 ton armored vehicle.
I once painted it on a box used to store artwork at art-class at elementary school and the teacher was very pleased with how "abstract" it looked. Did not tell her it was SS camo :D
I’m a model maker myself, I’m not amazing, but I’ve just restarted getting into it again as I did it as a very young teen, mind you I’m still a teen but I’m coming up 19 lol, I’ve just recently found your Channel and it’s amazing dude! The stuff I have learnt and the little tricks and tips you provided has actually helped so much
...and this video is the reason why you're my favourite UA-cam modeller. Showing where you've had problems, not just the best takes of where things went well. Airbrush cammo is something I've always struggled with. Thank you for giving pointers where I can improve.
Thinning paint for airbrushing is secretly easy. You just have to control two variables: paint viscosity and air pressure. That's it, really. It's that easy. The air pressure is the factor that forces the paint to atomise. The paint viscosity (thickness) is fighting the air pressure. If the paint viscosity wins that fight you get spluttering. To fix that you either increase air pressure or decrease viscosity by using more thinners. Finding the right balance is easy because there are only two variables in play. Usually between 1:1 and 2:1 of thinners to paint works with most paint brands.
I love your channel because most modelers are very serious or don't talk or do much commentary at all. You are hilarious and I wish more modeling channels will follow your example.
The only issues I have had with MMP are with chipping using the hairspray technique. They do seem quite fragile (compared to something like Tamiya) and reactivated on me to a wet paint consistency instead of flaking away. So instead of chipping, it was like they turned into a kind of sludge when I went over them lightly with a brush damp with water. It's to the point where I think I can skip the hairspray and barely add any water to a brush and still chip the paint off for various effects. But I personally wouldn't stack layers of MMP if I wanted to chip any of them unless I also stacked layers of protective varnish for layers I'd want undamaged. Just because, again, I've had issues with the paint reactivating when I would have expected it to be cured. All of that being said with the understanding that the paint performance was fine out of the airbrush and what I was doing by trying to chip it was obviously beyond the basic intent of the paint. I realize that chipping paint away is inherently a process that undermines the manufactured purpose of the paint. I'd recommend MMP but with the disclaimer that they're not Tamiya or AK Real Color- nor are they Vallejo or Ammo. And any different style of paint will need its own unique method of application.
@@BrailleScale I had the same problem with MMP but a good modeler friend of mine told to apply a coat of varnish let it dry then apply the hairspray and the paint to be chipped and continue with the process and then you will have your chipped paint! I intent to do it, and probably I'll do avideo as many of us that are using MMP are having the same trouble with that technique from what I see.
@@salazartankworkshop97 yes, I think that's the best solution for this issue! I actually got a very cool distressing result using light colored MMP OD green paint over a dark base of Tamiya OD green paint. It didn't "chip", but instead kind of buffed away and looked very worn down and gave a good faded effect. Turned out for the best I think. I made sure to seal everything with a clear varnish before continuing the weathering because I was concerned that the MMP would continue to reactivate indefinitely. So far so good!
what i do is get my lines on then pull the airbrush back a little ways and open it up a little more (trigger) and get a wider spray to fill in and it comes out wicked!
night shift, a method to weather German steal road wheels like on this is ammo mig acrylic mud (thick layer) over the road wheels, then (whilst its still wet) brush with tap water aver it. the dried mud will then look realistic
Another splendid video. I didn't care much for Mission Models paints either. I couldn't get it to spray well for camo coats. It was kind of splattery along the edges, like it doesn't atomize well for fine work. I tried their reommendation for thinning and when that didn't work, I started experimenting... still no-go. I have stuck with Tamiya ever since since it has never let me down!
My experience as well, there were a few times where I felt like I got them dialed and everything looked perfect, but after taking a quick phone picture and looking at it, there was still a lot of grain. Some people have amazing results with them though!
You know what!! My week feels complete when your video comes out i honestly look forward to Fridays and get excited to see what comes next! Love the your work its inspiring stuff, even though i mainly do aircraft like 99.9% of the time you give me great idears and iv managed to yous some of your tips for aircraft as well! And finally gave me a big push to do my channel that i started a year ago seen how far you have come is awesome, at the moment this is a side project but in the future maybe something permanent. Much love to you dude!! Please dont stop !!
The issue with being unable to brush paint mission models paints over each other without reactivating the paint beneath can be solved by adding their Urethane drops to the paint (not to be confused with their thinner, it's a 3-part system).
im a mini painter not a more traditional models one like you but when im thinning my paints i do it enought so that it takes 2 or 3 coats to be completely full, building the colour makes it sturdier and more (alive?), also i dunno but i would use the brush for fine details like camouflage instead of the airbrush
Hi Night Shift, great video. I really like your straight and honest presentations; you're a great storyteller. Now my own 2 cents of wisdom with regard to painting camo on tanks and aircraft. Since I'm fairly good at even paint them freehand in 1/72, I guess I don't suck painting camo as much as I do with other stuff ... :) 1. Best paint I ever tried out, and I tried them almost all: AK Real Colors. 2. Thin the paint, a lot! The thinner the needle, the more you have to thin. With a .2 needle in my H&S, about 60% thinner and 40% paint. But I'm never precise on the mixture; mix it directly in the airbrush's paint cup. 3. Lower the pressure to about 15 PSI. 4. Use the tool for fixing the nozzle so that only a bit of paint gets out. 5. Don't start right away spraying the model; I spray for about a minute on scrap plastic, for allowing the thinned paint to get "used" to the process, and myself to the paint. :) 6 Get as close to the model for spraying the contour lines of the camo. In a next step, open the nozzle a bit more and paint the inner areas. 7. Practice, play around with and adjust all these variables, practice more, ... Cheers, and always happy modelling!
i think you did a really great job on that camo, i've been a little scared to try it with the airbrush but you just showed me that it can be done. thank you
Dude, I have an H&S Ultra which is similar to your Evolution. I had similar troubles, but everything was solved changing the nozzle, which comes at 17€ circa!
The red Balkan Kreutz was a late war change to reflect that the tank destroyers were part of the artillery branch of the wehrmacht. There is a sturmgeschutz at the tank museum at Ft Benning Ga that has the red Balkan Kreutz you can Google it.
I have problems painting camouflage with airbrush as well. I don't know if it is the compressor, which is so tiny it can only be used with gravity fed airbrushes, but if the paint isn't thinned to perfection, it either clogs in the airbrush or make spider webs. I model 1/72 so the camouflage is even tinier. Maybe I will do as you say and start to thin the camouflage paint with my equivalent to Klear.
Beautiful camouflage. I’m trying to work up the courage to tackle the 1/16 Jagdtiger; I spent 9 months all together on the 1/16 Panther and swore off lengthy projects for a good while, but now you have done gone and got me to thinking about that big sucker on the shelf..... Oh well, no pain, no gain. Love the channel! M
The balkenkreuz is or was not red. It was kind of orange. They did it because they thought the bright white paint would give the concealed jagdtigers position away. The whole paint job was called "Hinterhaltstarnung" the German word for "Ambush-camouflage" or " lurking camouflage". It was kinda rare. The more darker orange framed balkenkreuz (german cross) had less contrast to the brownish colour of the vehicle and was rarely visible almost invisible in the field at higer distances. 😊
Canadian viewer. Really nice job. I tried Mission Model paints....not for me. I gave them to my brother...about 35 bottles. I went back to Tamiya and good old lacquer thinner....bullet proof combination.
i love it man. i usually do aircraft but thanks to you i have a massive shopping cart ready with a Tiger 2 and a bunch of products you use as well to see if i can make a tank look decent. cant wait.
Looks terrific, from a fascinating period of the late war. I was looking at Andy's Hobbies video recently and saw that Tamiya have released a new range of late war german colours.
Yes, and the Tamiya late war green & dunkelgelb 2 are good, however many modellers dislike the new late war brown. BTW, "Panzermeister36" did a very helpful YT video review about the new Tamiya paints for late war, and the new Tamiya paints for AFVs in North Afrrica. It's worth checking out. 🖒🖒
Sometimes I think the best painting I’ve ever done is by accident. Early on I was once painting a 1/350 Hood and I messed up my paint mix and created this weird faded effect and it turned out to match perfectly to reference photos of Hood before re-painting. Added some light rust streaks 👌The first T-34/85 I made I screwed up the white wash but the effect looked better than at than anything I’ve done before. Used some oil paints and created some nice modulation, looked great. Sometimes you just gotta mess up.
Lower the psi can help too with camo fine line. I wouldnt call it a shortcut the hulls were painted and primed by the armour assembly plants not to perfectly match the final production. Just to give a ruff outline. the line just follows the natural wheel with tracks. DB panther were camod under the panniers but the rarely match up well to the hull or mudguards
I must test that MMP one melting each other, weird stuff as i was layering one on another with my aibrush, diluted with MMP thinner. not sure why that would be such a difference using brush, these are water based paints thou. I also have to say that MMP was my favorite acrylic paint and most easy to use.
I have had unsatisfactory results using MMP, I don't think it has a strong adhesion like Tamiya for example. The issues I've had with it reactivating are when I try to do chipping effects with it. Lacquer paints like Tamiya seem to flake away and actually chip off leaving a hard edge after they're cured but the MMP seems to just turn back to wet paint and rub away. Even if it's had over 24 hours to dry. But they spray fine for me and I love them for base layers or if I want a kind of worn down, distressed effect as opposed to a hard edge chipping effect. I actually had a great effect of their faded OD paints sprayed over a Tamiya dark OD base. Some very cool, buffed down, distressed look. I think it's a great paint for certain things but certainly doesn't replace lacquer based options.
@@ScaleHangar182 I don't. We were talking about Mission Model Paints which are not vinyl acrylic and are supposedly designed to work for the hairspray chipping method. I just have not had good results using them for the hairspray method. They work fine for me when I over thin them and increase the air pressure of my set up though.
Hi Martin, I have a suggestion for you. When you have such a good friend who is also a god with airbrush. Maybe you two together should make a video regarding airbrushes, different paints brands, how to use them, dilatation, pressure, thinners and etc. Would be very useful for us modellers no matter are we novice or veterans. Also at the end an advice what is the best buy. Thanks and cheers.
Thanks for your videos buddy. I came back to the hobby after many years and your tips are very helpful, especially with painting, as I’m absolute begginer with it 👍
Another great video. Love your work. In reference to cammo painting. I have found Gunze the best and Tamiya a close second. Both thinned with celulose or Mr Color Leveling thinners. I haven't tried the gloss varnish technique. Looking forward to!
Great video uncle Night Shift and thanks for the tip for using / not using Mission models. I have the same problems with the paint. Tamiya and real colors are the best ( for me ). Can’t wait till next friday......
Late to the party on this video, but again, I love the VMS products Martin! You're right, that varnish is strangely like magic. I always tried to tell guys on SMCG about it. I sent Matt McDougal a bunch of product I used just to see if he would give any feedback about it because I wondered if it was me, or if the stuff was that good. I stopped trying after a while. They were always skeptical. Felt like everyone thought I was a VMS rep shilling for them. But, I'm a huge fan of what I've tried. I know they send and sponsor you with products, but they don't for me, they had me after I took a chance with them.
Sorry for being one hour late! Last weekend was a switch from daylight saving to winter time here :)
All good
DUNKELGELB!
Isant the armor damage suposet to be colord separatly
I am not forgiving you!!!! :(
ok maybe... yes
Very strange results with Mission Models paints. Is this a chance that paints you’ve received was spoiled? Paints that I have works well. I am usually thin them 90 % paint 10 % thinner and 1 drop of poly. Sometimes 15 - 20 %. I've noticed that you thinned 20 drops of yellow + 5 drops of white with 15 drops of thinner. It is approximately 40 % of thinner. Here is my recent project painted with them without any issues: www.flickr.com/photos/max-rossomachin/albums/72157716598809998
Let me tell you something, Uncle Night Shift. You have no need to apologize for your airbrushing skills, nor for using Tamiya paint. I have over 60 years modeling experience (started in 1959) and I CAN NOT STAND Vallejo paints and their ilk. I know there are people that swear by them. When I use Vallejo, I swear; usually a lot! There is a reason that Tamiya is a premier company. When I use Tamiya I have no worries about thinning, whether it will stick, or whether I can mask it. It does all of those things well. Plus, it is very cost effective. You can mix any color; camouflage, whatever you need. There are multiple recipes all over the net. At my age, I don't need the headaches that go along with a paint that won't stick, won't cover, or pulls up when you have to mask it. No. You did just fine! See you guys next week.
The red crosses are an interesting story, they were a pretty late war thing. The germans figured out (or made up) that the allies were aiming at them by pointing their sights at the white outline of the cross. As these were often on the sides and rear, and around where the crew was situated, the crews got a bit anxious about the obvious white outline. To ease their minds, the white outlines were painted over with red paint. That's why the red sometimes can appear a bit rough compared to the rest of the markings. There is a late-war StuG III at Aberdeen Proving grounds in the US that has its paint still intact, albeit very dirty, but with a red overpainted cross on the rear.
I thought I knew a lot about German armor of WWII, but this is new, interesting info.👍
Funnily enough the same story is with the Americans and the White Star on their tanks being placed directly ontop of crew positions or ammo (namely the M4 Sherman series). German AT crews or tanks -after noticing the giant white star - would shoot the star or near it for a guaranteed kill/knockout so crews would paint over them in the field with a dark grey or black paint, making it a 'subdued' star or covering it with mud so it was harder for the enemy to see.
@@hex6970 I never understand why we continued with White Stars and lettering on our vehicles through the mid 70s. It’s not very tactical at all, go with black or grey lettering and Stars or dark Matt yellow like the U.S.M.C did.
@@Barabel22 While I cant answer why we used it for so long, it was phased out when the 3 Tone Camo was adopted. Though it most likely remained in service until 1975 as an easier way to identify friendly tanks as back then it wasnt as easy to keep track of whos who, I guess.
@@Barabel22 You don't put markings on a tank unless you want them to be seen. Knowing which of your tanks are which is more important than the enemy seeing some random writing that means nothing to them. If camoflauge is an issue you're going to have to do a lot more than just change the color of some writing on a 70 ton armored vehicle.
Love the dotted camouflage it’s very German...
Night Shift will be moving his garden fence next, to incorporate his neighbour’s garden into his, after painting Hinterhaltstarnung 😱
I once painted it on a box used to store artwork at art-class at elementary school and the teacher was very pleased with how "abstract" it looked. Did not tell her it was SS camo :D
Oh boy don't say that infront of a 14 year old white girl
Where? I cant see it?
@@patrickc9726
Are you blind it’s right there!
Last time i was this early Steiner was still gethering his troops for the counter attack
Go to where the Iron Crosses grow.
Fegelein, Fegelein, Fegelein!!!
"Thirty eight Euros......Not terrible, not great". Dyatlov.
Actually more great than terrible :)
That made me laugh out loud hahaha nice reference
@@NightShiftScaleModels have you the name if this airbrush
@@troopeur it's a bd 180
@@bigbigmushy7338 i will order one :)
Uncle Nightshift and his THICC Jagdtiger back at it again.
Humoungous
I’m a model maker myself, I’m not amazing, but I’ve just restarted getting into it again as I did it as a very young teen, mind you I’m still a teen but I’m coming up 19 lol, I’ve just recently found your Channel and it’s amazing dude! The stuff I have learnt and the little tricks and tips you provided has actually helped so much
Damn you 23 now
Does it get any better
I like how you show every product you use and explain as most as possible about it. Very informative and useful, that's why I love your videos.
I can’t wait to see the finished model it looks so good
...and this video is the reason why you're my favourite UA-cam modeller. Showing where you've had problems, not just the best takes of where things went well.
Airbrush cammo is something I've always struggled with. Thank you for giving pointers where I can improve.
Thinning paint for airbrushing is secretly easy. You just have to control two variables: paint viscosity and air pressure. That's it, really. It's that easy.
The air pressure is the factor that forces the paint to atomise. The paint viscosity (thickness) is fighting the air pressure. If the paint viscosity wins that fight you get spluttering. To fix that you either increase air pressure or decrease viscosity by using more thinners. Finding the right balance is easy because there are only two variables in play. Usually between 1:1 and 2:1 of thinners to paint works with most paint brands.
Paint that figurine! Yes! Add them to ALL of your models!
After i watched your videos i have just been IN LOVE with german armor, and i think you do a PERFECT job with your models.
I love your channel because most modelers are very serious or don't talk or do much commentary at all. You are hilarious and I wish more modeling channels will follow your example.
Tbh the green camo pattern at 14:43 looks really good in my opinion, like almost just as good as the ambush camo
You are the Bob Ross of tank modelling!
I love your models, I hope one day I might make one that will be as good as yours. Thanks for all the helpful tutorials
Hi Martin! Very nice video!
one of the few german paint jobs on youtube that doesnt look like a candy box, looking forward to the weathering
Ah night shift. My week isn't complete without your videos
3 tone German camo.................yay! My favorite! Very much looking forward to you weathering this one!! :)
I can't wait for every fridays because I can sit back and watch you build models, cause i'm too poor to get them all the time.
"Not perfect but good enough" 😂 Your "good enough" is the perfect for us mere mortals! Bow down to the armour god 🙇. Loving your work 👍
Your channel makes me realise I really miss this hobby!!!! Can't wait to get back one day
I see NIGHTSHIFT sitting in the mall doing dioramas while you wait. ... I want a stug 3 in winter scenery ... no problem. 10 minutes. :D
You are restoring this tank and I'm amazed you can make this accurate camouflage in color
The highlight of my Friday is watching these videos
Nice progress on the camo scheme. I have used cut down bristles on a small brush for the disc camo before. Looking forward to seeing the weathering
MARTIN!!!!! Beautiful paint job, my man. Beautiful.
Once again a delight, this one is looking gorgeous! Thanks uncle Night Shift, have a terrific weekend!
For decals you should try “solvaset walthers”, it’s perfect for any surface (smooth, rough, etc)
Congratulations Jason for a very fair review.
Cheers
Phil
Finally you released it! Thank god i cant really wait but now its here.
Your videos both inspire me and make me realize how little my skills have progressed in 40 years of model building. Thanks :-)
This is perfect! Right in time for my 1/16 jagdtiger from Trumpeter.
"My friends, it's uncle nightshift and tonight we build my first warhammer 40k tank" .... Oh wait....
All I can say is WOW. What a fantastic job over all.
I can advise you Vallejo Flow improver!! If you airbrush water acrylics, this magic thing fix all problems you told. 👍
"look at this amazing model I painstakingly constructed. Now watch me pull it apart."
Thanks for your in-depth product analysis. Your builds are inspirational.
I've never had problems with the mission models paints
The only issues I have had with MMP are with chipping using the hairspray technique. They do seem quite fragile (compared to something like Tamiya) and reactivated on me to a wet paint consistency instead of flaking away. So instead of chipping, it was like they turned into a kind of sludge when I went over them lightly with a brush damp with water. It's to the point where I think I can skip the hairspray and barely add any water to a brush and still chip the paint off for various effects. But I personally wouldn't stack layers of MMP if I wanted to chip any of them unless I also stacked layers of protective varnish for layers I'd want undamaged. Just because, again, I've had issues with the paint reactivating when I would have expected it to be cured. All of that being said with the understanding that the paint performance was fine out of the airbrush and what I was doing by trying to chip it was obviously beyond the basic intent of the paint. I realize that chipping paint away is inherently a process that undermines the manufactured purpose of the paint. I'd recommend MMP but with the disclaimer that they're not Tamiya or AK Real Color- nor are they Vallejo or Ammo. And any different style of paint will need its own unique method of application.
@@BrailleScale I had the same problem with MMP but a good modeler friend of mine told to apply a coat of varnish let it dry then apply the hairspray and the paint to be chipped and continue with the process and then you will have your chipped paint! I intent to do it, and probably I'll do avideo as many of us that are using MMP are having the same trouble with that technique from what I see.
@@salazartankworkshop97 yes, I think that's the best solution for this issue! I actually got a very cool distressing result using light colored MMP OD green paint over a dark base of Tamiya OD green paint. It didn't "chip", but instead kind of buffed away and looked very worn down and gave a good faded effect. Turned out for the best I think. I made sure to seal everything with a clear varnish before continuing the weathering because I was concerned that the MMP would continue to reactivate indefinitely. So far so good!
what i do is get my lines on then pull the airbrush back a little ways and open it up a little more (trigger) and get a wider spray to fill in and it comes out wicked!
lol, you read our devious little minds when you put in that disclaimer about washing the model in the video
Seriously your work is a Masterpiece. Can't wait for the diorama.
Wonderful to watch as usual. Excited to see the weathering.
night shift, a method to weather German steal road wheels like on this is ammo mig acrylic mud (thick layer) over the road wheels, then (whilst its still wet) brush with tap water aver it. the dried mud will then look realistic
“This is my favorite thing. I think about this all day.”
-Market Pliers
Another splendid video.
I didn't care much for Mission Models paints either. I couldn't get it to spray well for camo coats. It was kind of splattery along the edges, like it doesn't atomize well for fine work. I tried their reommendation for thinning and when that didn't work, I started experimenting... still no-go. I have stuck with Tamiya ever since since it has never let me down!
My experience as well, there were a few times where I felt like I got them dialed and everything looked perfect, but after taking a quick phone picture and looking at it, there was still a lot of grain. Some people have amazing results with them though!
Absolutely love your channel dude, I'm considering getting into this hobby because of you and Plasmo's videos.
Check out Panzermeister36 too. His work is excellent, and his tutorials are great!
Looks great, Martin! Yes, those Takom decals are a pain. I have to use many many coats of Walters Solvaset to get them to sit down properly.
Excellent video. Can't wait till next week.
You know what!! My week feels complete when your video comes out i honestly look forward to Fridays and get excited to see what comes next! Love the your work its inspiring stuff, even though i mainly do aircraft like 99.9% of the time you give me great idears and iv managed to yous some of your tips for aircraft as well! And finally gave me a big push to do my channel that i started a year ago seen how far you have come is awesome, at the moment this is a side project but in the future maybe something permanent. Much love to you dude!! Please dont stop !!
Awesome! Keep going mate!
@@NightShiftScaleModels cheers dude! Any tips 😂
The issue with being unable to brush paint mission models paints over each other without reactivating the paint beneath can be solved by adding their Urethane drops to the paint (not to be confused with their thinner, it's a 3-part system).
Congratulations on this project. Greetings from Argentina
Really appreciate the longer videos!
Fantastic work Martin! Love the look of the Jagdtiger so far.
Lovely camouflage, fitting for this tank destroyer.
I wish my best camo airbrushing results were as good as your worst. Very nice outcome and inspirational!
Oh I did the same Camo on a Hetzer, by brush, with Tamiya Paints...
Wasn't fun till I got to the dots.
im a mini painter not a more traditional models one like you but when im thinning my paints i do it enought so that it takes 2 or 3 coats to be completely full, building the colour makes it sturdier and more (alive?), also i dunno but i would use the brush for fine details like camouflage instead of the airbrush
Hi Night Shift, great video. I really like your straight and honest presentations; you're a great storyteller.
Now my own 2 cents of wisdom with regard to painting camo on tanks and aircraft. Since I'm fairly good at even paint them freehand in 1/72, I guess I don't suck painting camo as much as I do with other stuff ... :)
1. Best paint I ever tried out, and I tried them almost all: AK Real Colors.
2. Thin the paint, a lot! The thinner the needle, the more you have to thin. With a .2 needle in my H&S, about 60% thinner and 40% paint. But I'm never precise on the mixture; mix it directly in the airbrush's paint cup.
3. Lower the pressure to about 15 PSI.
4. Use the tool for fixing the nozzle so that only a bit of paint gets out.
5. Don't start right away spraying the model; I spray for about a minute on scrap plastic, for allowing the thinned paint to get "used" to the process, and myself to the paint. :)
6 Get as close to the model for spraying the contour lines of the camo. In a next step, open the nozzle a bit more and paint the inner areas.
7. Practice, play around with and adjust all these variables, practice more, ...
Cheers, and always happy modelling!
Thank you , Uncle Martin .
i think you did a really great job on that camo, i've been a little scared to try it with the airbrush but you just showed me that it can be done. thank you
Wonderful model and a great achieved camo. It looks elegant.
I don't like so match to building tanks but with your videos you push me to start handle with them great video
Martin every single video inspired us to build more, I need to start my Nichimo kit
Dude, I have an H&S Ultra which is similar to your Evolution.
I had similar troubles, but everything was solved changing the nozzle, which comes at 17€ circa!
It's probably worn out after all those years :) Getting the new Fengda was just slightly more expensive and you'll end up with an extra airbrush :)
*No problem for waiting a NS video, the pleasure is total! 😲🤩*
Realistic and gorgeous job on the camo, thumbs up!
there is a Panzer IV or Stug at the NAAC at fort benning that has the Red cross if my memory is correct
ever since i found your channel ive been keeping up to date as soon as they come out, love your work man ❤
Love your videos!
I like how you encounter difficulties and explain them. Makes me feel I'm not alone :)
White vinegar works good for etching brass and copper parts to get a good tooth for the paint.
The red Balkan Kreutz was a late war change to reflect that the tank destroyers were part of the artillery branch of the wehrmacht. There is a sturmgeschutz at the tank museum at Ft Benning Ga that has the red Balkan Kreutz you can Google it.
I have problems painting camouflage with airbrush as well. I don't know if it is the compressor, which is so tiny it can only be used with gravity fed airbrushes, but if the paint isn't thinned to perfection, it either clogs in the airbrush or make spider webs. I model 1/72 so the camouflage is even tinier.
Maybe I will do as you say and start to thin the camouflage paint with my equivalent to Klear.
That paint job is amazing.
Beautiful camouflage. I’m trying to work up the courage to tackle the 1/16 Jagdtiger; I spent 9 months all together on the 1/16 Panther and swore off lengthy projects for a good while, but now you have done gone and got me to thinking about that big sucker on the shelf..... Oh well, no pain, no gain. Love the channel! M
The balkenkreuz is or was not red. It was kind of orange. They did it because they thought the bright white paint would give the concealed jagdtigers position away.
The whole paint job was called "Hinterhaltstarnung" the German word for "Ambush-camouflage" or " lurking camouflage". It was kinda rare.
The more darker orange framed balkenkreuz (german cross) had less contrast to the brownish colour of the vehicle and was rarely visible almost invisible in the field at higer distances. 😊
Canadian viewer. Really nice job. I tried Mission Model paints....not for me. I gave them to my brother...about 35 bottles. I went back to Tamiya and good old lacquer thinner....bullet proof combination.
i love it man. i usually do aircraft but thanks to you i have a massive shopping cart ready with a Tiger 2 and a bunch of products you use as well to see if i can make a tank look decent. cant wait.
Looks terrific, from a fascinating period of the late war. I was looking at Andy's Hobbies video recently and saw that Tamiya have released a new range of late war german colours.
Yes, and the Tamiya late war green & dunkelgelb 2 are good, however many modellers dislike the new late war brown.
BTW, "Panzermeister36" did a very helpful YT video review about the new Tamiya paints for late war, and the new Tamiya paints for AFVs in North Afrrica. It's worth checking out. 🖒🖒
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing your technique.
Sometimes I think the best painting I’ve ever done is by accident. Early on I was once painting a 1/350 Hood and I messed up my paint mix and created this weird faded effect and it turned out to match perfectly to reference photos of Hood before re-painting. Added some light rust streaks 👌The first T-34/85 I made I screwed up the white wash but the effect looked better than at than anything I’ve done before. Used some oil paints and created some nice modulation, looked great. Sometimes you just gotta mess up.
Lower the psi can help too with camo fine line. I wouldnt call it a shortcut the hulls were painted and primed by the armour assembly plants not to perfectly match the final production. Just to give a ruff outline. the line just follows the natural wheel with tracks. DB panther were camod under the panniers but the rarely match up well to the hull or mudguards
Last time I was this early Japanese Zeros still ruled the skies. Nice video yet again Uncle Night Shift
The VMS satin and flat have changed my modeling. I posted pics of it on IG and I hope that sold more. The VMS stuff is something you guys support
I must test that MMP one melting each other, weird stuff as i was layering one on another with my aibrush, diluted with MMP thinner. not sure why that would be such a difference using brush, these are water based paints thou. I also have to say that MMP was my favorite acrylic paint and most easy to use.
I have had unsatisfactory results using MMP, I don't think it has a strong adhesion like Tamiya for example. The issues I've had with it reactivating are when I try to do chipping effects with it. Lacquer paints like Tamiya seem to flake away and actually chip off leaving a hard edge after they're cured but the MMP seems to just turn back to wet paint and rub away. Even if it's had over 24 hours to dry. But they spray fine for me and I love them for base layers or if I want a kind of worn down, distressed effect as opposed to a hard edge chipping effect. I actually had a great effect of their faded OD paints sprayed over a Tamiya dark OD base. Some very cool, buffed down, distressed look. I think it's a great paint for certain things but certainly doesn't replace lacquer based options.
@@BrailleScale don't do hairspray chipping with vinyl acrylics like Mig, ak, vallejo, hataka etc..
@@ScaleHangar182 I don't. We were talking about Mission Model Paints which are not vinyl acrylic and are supposedly designed to work for the hairspray chipping method. I just have not had good results using them for the hairspray method. They work fine for me when I over thin them and increase the air pressure of my set up though.
Your models are just awesome👍👍👍👍
Hi Martin, I have a suggestion for you.
When you have such a good friend who is also a god with airbrush. Maybe you two together should make a video regarding airbrushes, different paints brands, how to use them, dilatation, pressure, thinners and etc.
Would be very useful for us modellers no matter are we novice or veterans.
Also at the end an advice what is the best buy.
Thanks and cheers.
Been a great day thanks to you! Thanks👍👍👍
Soapy water does loosen superglue so you may end up with all your photoetch down the drain when washing the model 😋
Thanks for your videos buddy. I came back to the hobby after many years and your tips are very helpful, especially with painting, as I’m absolute begginer with it 👍
"I'm not very good at airbrushing" he says as he makes masterpieces wish I was that good
Another great video. Love your work. In reference to cammo painting. I have found Gunze the best and Tamiya a close second. Both thinned with celulose or Mr Color Leveling thinners. I haven't tried the gloss varnish technique. Looking forward to!
I’m looking forward to see the magic you will work on the figure.
Great video, and next time I'm at Domino's (that's less than an hour driving) I'll sure try out that VMS clear coat.
Great video uncle Night Shift and thanks for the tip for using / not using Mission models. I have the same problems with the paint. Tamiya and real colors are the best ( for me ).
Can’t wait till next friday......
*SOME WEIRD GERMAN VERY THICCCC BOIIII IS IN CAMO*
Nice job Martin👍👍👍👍
Late to the party on this video, but again, I love the VMS products Martin! You're right, that varnish is strangely like magic. I always tried to tell guys on SMCG about it. I sent Matt McDougal a bunch of product I used just to see if he would give any feedback about it because I wondered if it was me, or if the stuff was that good. I stopped trying after a while. They were always skeptical. Felt like everyone thought I was a VMS rep shilling for them. But, I'm a huge fan of what I've tried. I know they send and sponsor you with products, but they don't for me, they had me after I took a chance with them.