This video was invaluable. I just received and installed this kit on my P365X, and I can’t believe the difference it made. Worth every penny. Also, I couldn’t have done it without this video, but I will say that it was a LOT easier to get the sear safety lever back in by taking off the disconnect on the other side. I spent forever trying to do it “blind” like you did, but I couldn’t ever get it.
Excellent customer service!!! I thought I did something wrong because I couldn't remove my slide after the install. Called them, they were able to tell me exactly what was happening. Easy fix. Thanks!!!
Without question Tactical Trigger, LLC has the BEST customer service! Refreshing to call and they actually can solve your problem. Love buying from them!!
Just installed this kit and very happy with it, left out the take up shim but everything else is good to go. Would like to make a suggestion to redo this video with a close up of the sear spring install, took me a bit of fiddling to figure out what exactly you were talking about.
I was in the same spot, and also think it would be beneficial to redo the video, or at least a supplemental video that has better angles/focus to show the sear control spring install.
Installed my kit last night on a X Macro Comp - night and day difference! A supplemental video showing just the sear control spring install (better angles and focus) could be helpful for people, as it was the only thing that I had some difficulty with.
Just installed this kit. I was confused as heck when I couldn’t pull the trigger to engage the striker. Ended up redo-ing some steps including the hardest part… in the end it was the over-travel shimmy that needed some shedding. Wish I knew that before trying the others.
Do you sell the pre/over travel stop plates seperatly? I've searched your website and could only find them with the springs which I don't want to alter because it's a carry gun. (I have the factory flat trigger, maybe you don't sell them seperatly because they don't work with the factory triggers?) Thanks!
They do work and are meant for use with the stock triggers. We haven't sold them individually for a couple of reasons. The pre-travel stop goes hand in hand with our modified slide cap which those two parts alone are a good portion of the cost for the full kit. We also manufacture the pre-travel stop and overtravel stops together so we haven't been setup to offer them individually. We have also noticed that many of the requests we get for the pre-travel stops are usually looking to eliminate creep in the break which the pre-travel stop doesn't help with. The pre-travel stop only brings back the starting position of the trigger. Our patented sear control spring is what is needed for eliminating mush/creep in the break. Now to answer your question directly, we will be offering the pre-travel stops with and without the modified slide caps individually on the website within the next few hours.
I have a couple questions, 1. Is the modified face plate only required if I am using the the pretravel stop? 2. Can I use just the overtravel stop without the modified baseplate. 3. is your reduced striker safety spring any different from the one included with MCARBO trigger spring kit? 4. lastly what would you guys charge to modify my custom face plate? I've got the kit in my cart, I just want to be sure about everything before I pull the trigger as it certainly is an investment. Thanks !
1. Yes, you only need the modified slide cap with reduced pre-travel while using the pre-travel stop. 2. Yes, the overtravel stop is independent of the modified slide cap. 3. Our reduced power striker safety spring is different as it is stainless steel vs music wire and provides more pull weight reduction.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Awesome! Thanks for the quick response. I am going to place an order, and if I decide I want that pretravel stop, I will contact you to modify mine. Thanks!
Followed the video but still can't remove the slide or lower the takedown lever the whole way...does that mean I have to adjust the pre-trVel shim? I didn't install the post travel. I also installed the modified slide cap.
It depends on how far the takedown lever is moving. If it doesn't move past the 4 o'clock position, that would indicate the safety lever pin is installed upside down. If the takedown lever makes it past the 6 oclock position, the takedown lever can be held forward with your right thumb while pulling the slide back the rest of the way to get the slide catch to drop and allow the slide to come off. The pre-travel stop can be adjusted by removing one layer if needed to make it easier to get the takedown lever into the right position to allow the slide catch to drop easier.
@@Austin51798 stuck in the 4 o'clock position is an indication that the safety lever pin was installed upside down. If it's the polymer grip module you can remove the pin from the grip module and pull the back of the grip module away from the FCU enough to pull the safety lever pin to then allow takedown.
We don't have our own video on installing the takedown safety bar but you can use this video at about the 11 min mark. ua-cam.com/video/TFVyvqdpouA/v-deo.htmlsi=kIMj7Qz3fFSVWQhl
There isn't one up currently. We've had problems with UA-cam removing videos lately. We will get one posted either on the website or on UA-cam within the next couple of weeks.
The adjustment process is similar to the overtravel stop. The layered end of the pre-travel stop is one layer adjustable. The top layer can be bent back and forth a couple times to break off to be removed. The other 4 layers are welded so it's fairly easy to spot the layer that can be removed.
@@jeremylyson8278 it is very rare to need to adjust the pre-travel stop. The primary reason for adjustment would be if the amount of pre-travel reduction is causing an interlock issue with the takedown lever and slide catch which makes slide removal more difficult than desired. Based on tolerance of the parts involved this won't happen on very many guns out there so likely you won't encounter this issue anyway.
Yeah I hear ya, but im an odd ball. Lol. I actually like pretravel. Kindof feels like alittle extra safety to me. I thought about leaving it out, but I was thinking about maybe little less pretravel, but not as much as in the video.
The safety lever pin goes through the center of the sear control spring. The purpose of this spring is to increase the thickness of the pin. It isn't actually acting as a spring.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Glad I read the comments before asking a Q. I didn't see removal of a different "sear control spring", so I was wondering how you were able to put the new one in. I'm thinking about a 365 Macro, and have heard that the trigger is marginal. I assume you have kits for it?
@@tacticaltriggerllc This confused me for a while, and I'm glad I found this comment. It'd be great if the instructions mentioned the rod going through the spring, and the spring only increasing the thickness
could you please do a better video on the safety checks? Its the most important step but with low light and your speed I couldn't follow along. I installed it and just want to be sure. Thanks in advance.
We are planning to provide some more detailed videos within the coming weeks. For now there is another more detailed video that can help. ua-cam.com/video/sneACYpHzt0/v-deo.html
To be clear, if I have a manual safety version, I do need to purchase the Modified OEM Manual Safety option and replace my stock manual safety lever, but I can reuse the spring and detent?
@@andrewryan1946 The concepts were developed when the first P365s were released and have been in use and testing ever since. We fired tens of thousands of rounds through different test guns and haven't ever experienced any failures. The only failure we ever observed was on a p365 that was missing the striker reset spring and not attributed to the trigger in any way. We provide safety and reliability checks to help ensure proper margins are maintained.
@@andrewryan1946 Question. I have the manual safety in my p365xl, but I removed the safety. As far as I know, every p365 fcu has the ability to add or delete the safety. So If I want to use my current p365xl without safety, If I wanted to buy this tactical trigger, I will be purchasing the non-safety version. Is that correct?
It reduces sear to striker engagement which in turn reduces the travel from the wall to break. The P365 has more engagement than most other striker fired guns which makes the trigger feel a bit spongy. The end result when using the appropriate sear control spring is a clean short break.
@@tacticaltriggerllc so technically you said to make sure you get full striker-sear face coverage/engagement when safety checking. But the point of the spring is to reduce the above for a crisper break. So I'm a bit confused now as to how much coverage is needed for a safe trigger.
@@GentleBrawl The appropriate margins for sear engagement is at least full coverage of the sear interfacing surface by the striker. If you look at the sear where it interfaces with the striker there is a rectangular surface that interfaces with the sear. Below that surface is a gap then a ramp. That sear interfacing surface is what needs full coverage.
@Tactical Trigger, LLC So this maintains the same level of safety as a stock gun? Still just as drop/vibration safe? What if I've installed the Mcarbo spring kit, including the lighter striker safety spring? Sorry for the specific question, but I really want that crisp break that people say this provides, but don't want an unsafe carry gun.
@@75675761 yes, the kit is designed to maintain full safety and reliability margins inherent to the stock design. As far as the mCarbo spring kit, we wouldn't recommend using a reduced power striker spring since it can degrade primer strikes reliability. I also wouldn't recommend the reduced power sear spring as it is the most difficult part to replace on the p365 and provides little pull weight reduction based balance to maintain proper function. Our reduced power striker safety spring alone provides as much pull weight reduction as all 3 springs in the mCarbo kit and won't degrade reliability and still maintains proper striker safety function.
With the kit, the performance is the same between the curved and flat. Curved or flat really comes down to preference look and feel. For me, I shoot either about the same. Others may feel the shoot better with one over the other.
Yes, it is. A modified manual safety lever is needed for compatibility when using a sear control spring though. The option to include a modified manual safety lever is available with the kit.
The sear control spring goes around the safety lever pin inside the FCU. It isn't acting as a spring. It is used as a spacer to increase the thickness of the safety lever pin.
@@tacticaltriggerllc to increase the thickness? Doesn’t it put pressure on the safety lever so it doesn’t turn easier thus making the safety stronger against bump/drop firing?
@@CplGoldFish21No, the sear control spring isn't acting as a spring putting pressure on anything. The safety lever pin is also the stop point for the ride height of the sear. So by increasing its effective thickness with the sear control spring, it lowers the ride height of the sear.
A stock trigger can be as high as 6 pounds but usually around 5 lbs. With a polished striker and our reduced power striker safety spring, they can be as low as 3 lbs but will usually be around 3.5#.
No matter what I do the sear control spring doesn't seem to want to slide onto the pin. It seems the trigger bar won't let the spring come back any further to be seated properly on the pin. I'm using the #3 and can't get it to seat. Any extra tips on how to install?
When removing the trigger bar the spring sits far enough back to slide onto the pin, but obviously the trigger bar HAS to be in before the safety pin goes in
First thing is to clarify what the sear control spring is doing. It isn't acting as a spring it acts to increase the thickness of the safety lever pin like a tube or spacer. The safety lever pin is also the stop point for the ride height of the sear so by increasing the thickness it lowers the ride height of the sear. With this said, there needs to be enough clearance by pushing down on the sear to allow the spring to slide over the safety lever pin.
So a tip to help is to press down on the sear at the same time while pushing in the safety lever pin. If you push the sear down too far it may bind up as well so you may need to try finding the right amount of downward pressure to give good clearance for the spring. Hope that helps.
Whenever I push down on the sear I can see through the safety pin hole that no matter how hard I push down, the spring is not fully aligned with the hole. This causes the pin to just push the spring into the other side. Is it possible the tolerances the gun was made with simply don't allow space for the spring. Or is there a way to push down the sear even further while keeping the trigger bar in place?
@@danielamaya7756 I'm not sure I'm following you on the interaction with the trigger bar. The sear control spring can be installed with the trigger spring removed, trigger bar out of the way, and disconnector removed to view the through hole of the safety lever pin from the opposite side. This can be helpful to reinstall the safety lever as well. Is this what you are doing? Feel free to call to discuss.
The pull weight is independent of sear engagement. Pull weight is reduced by using the reduced power safety plunger spring. Reducing sear engagement with a sear control spring reduces the travel distance from the wall to break which eliminates the spongy feel of the stock trigger.
@@bierakanus5463 A reduced power striker spring would lighten pull weight but it also reduces the primer strike strength which reduces reliability. For this reason, we wouldn't recommend ever using a reduced power striker/firing pin spring.
We just sell but we work with an FFL to offer installation services. If interested in install send us an email at tacticaltriggers@gmail.com to set it up.
Glad I watched this video. Convinced me to not buy this. I would end up with all the shit you say to make sure doesn't happen absolutely would and I would have a cool looking paperweight. I would love this upgrade I'm just not qualified to do it.
Hi, my,... My gun was taken apart so that I would be forced to put it back together, and I did, the only thing is that i left out that small small spring, That I think is included with the p365 xl , it was being cleaned amongs another ss p365 , and now the small is missing(Striker Reset Spring) , I believe it was thrown away. I need to replace it, but according to some forums, they said it's no longer needed with the new version of sig sauer p365 xl. my gun seems to reset after slide lock and when i pull the trigger( magazine out) it makes a normal click . I haven't shot it with live ammo, But I was just wondering. Striker Reset Spring Brand : Sig Sauer SKU:2700023-R UPC:798681612048, do I really need this if the Gun resets with no problem. thank you for your time
If your Sig P365 XL has the black striker, it does not come with a striker sleeve spring. It is the small 2 coils spring at the back of the striker in the sleeve. Called Sig customer service and they verified that.
Sorry I didn't see this comment back when it was posted. In my experience during extensive testing, one of the only failures I had with a p365 was due to a missing striker reset spring. It contributed to loss of slide cycling energy resulting by not getting the striker out of the way (striker drag) that cause the slide to get hung up without chambering a new round. Once the striker reset spring was installed no issue like that ever again. I would suggest getting the striker reset spring installed for best reliability as intended in the design.
The difference is night & day!
Sig should buy out your company & use your trigger for ALL their P365 platforms.
This video was invaluable. I just received and installed this kit on my P365X, and I can’t believe the difference it made. Worth every penny. Also, I couldn’t have done it without this video, but I will say that it was a LOT easier to get the sear safety lever back in by taking off the disconnect on the other side. I spent forever trying to do it “blind” like you did, but I couldn’t ever get it.
Glad to hear!
Excellent customer service!!! I thought I did something wrong because I couldn't remove my slide after the install. Called them, they were able to tell me exactly what was happening. Easy fix. Thanks!!!
Without question Tactical Trigger, LLC has the BEST customer service! Refreshing to call and they actually can solve your problem. Love buying from them!!
This video was incredibly helpful. I just received the kit for my p365xl this morning, took about 20min to install. Such a difference! Thank you!
Great vid. Wish I watched it before I pulled the safety lever pin all the way out! Live and learn
Just installed this kit and very happy with it, left out the take up shim but everything else is good to go.
Would like to make a suggestion to redo this video with a close up of the sear spring install, took me a bit of fiddling to figure out what exactly you were talking about.
We will be putting out individual part install videos as soon as we can be confident UA-cam won't take them down.
I was in the same spot, and also think it would be beneficial to redo the video, or at least a supplemental video that has better angles/focus to show the sear control spring install.
Send Skips Gunz a kit to test it out. He is a p365 ambassador.
Installed my kit last night on a X Macro Comp - night and day difference!
A supplemental video showing just the sear control spring install (better angles and focus) could be helpful for people, as it was the only thing that I had some difficulty with.
There will be a dedicated video on each part of the kit soon once we are confident UA-cam won't remove them.
Just installed this kit. I was confused as heck when I couldn’t pull the trigger to engage the striker. Ended up redo-ing some steps including the hardest part… in the end it was the over-travel shimmy that needed some shedding. Wish I knew that before trying the others.
Can you explain this is think I’m having the same problem
@@johnramirez4747 the metal shim that goes behind the trigger- you can take layers off it to make it less thick.
@@jonle6426 what did you use to take off the layers?
had same issue, luckly i removed half a shim of overtravel first and that fixed everything.
Do you sell the pre/over travel stop plates seperatly?
I've searched your website and could only find them with the springs which I don't want to alter because it's a carry gun.
(I have the factory flat trigger, maybe you don't sell them seperatly because they don't work with the factory triggers?)
Thanks!
They do work and are meant for use with the stock triggers. We haven't sold them individually for a couple of reasons. The pre-travel stop goes hand in hand with our modified slide cap which those two parts alone are a good portion of the cost for the full kit. We also manufacture the pre-travel stop and overtravel stops together so we haven't been setup to offer them individually. We have also noticed that many of the requests we get for the pre-travel stops are usually looking to eliminate creep in the break which the pre-travel stop doesn't help with. The pre-travel stop only brings back the starting position of the trigger. Our patented sear control spring is what is needed for eliminating mush/creep in the break. Now to answer your question directly, we will be offering the pre-travel stops with and without the modified slide caps individually on the website within the next few hours.
I have a couple questions,
1. Is the modified face plate only required if I am using the the pretravel stop?
2. Can I use just the overtravel stop without the modified baseplate.
3. is your reduced striker safety spring any different from the one included with MCARBO trigger spring kit?
4. lastly what would you guys charge to modify my custom face plate?
I've got the kit in my cart, I just want to be sure about everything before I pull the trigger as it certainly is an investment.
Thanks !
1. Yes, you only need the modified slide cap with reduced pre-travel while using the pre-travel stop.
2. Yes, the overtravel stop is independent of the modified slide cap.
3. Our reduced power striker safety spring is different as it is stainless steel vs music wire and provides more pull weight reduction.
4. We will charge $10 plus return shipping to modify a slide cap that is sent in.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Awesome! Thanks for the quick response. I am going to place an order, and if I decide I want that pretravel stop, I will contact you to modify mine. Thanks!
at the most critical part, your head is in the way. Ever thought of re-doing the video so we can see what's going on? Magnification is your friend!
Yes, we have. There is another short installation video as well.
Was there supposed to be a sear control spring in the gun from the factory? Because mine didn't have one.
No, the sear control spring is our patented part that is added to the gun to enhance performance.
Followed the video but still can't remove the slide or lower the takedown lever the whole way...does that mean I have to adjust the pre-trVel shim? I didn't install the post travel. I also installed the modified slide cap.
It depends on how far the takedown lever is moving. If it doesn't move past the 4 o'clock position, that would indicate the safety lever pin is installed upside down. If the takedown lever makes it past the 6 oclock position, the takedown lever can be held forward with your right thumb while pulling the slide back the rest of the way to get the slide catch to drop and allow the slide to come off. The pre-travel stop can be adjusted by removing one layer if needed to make it easier to get the takedown lever into the right position to allow the slide catch to drop easier.
@Tactical Trigger, LLC what do you do if the takedown lever will not move past the 4 o'clock mark? I cant remove the slide from the lower.
@@Austin51798 stuck in the 4 o'clock position is an indication that the safety lever pin was installed upside down. If it's the polymer grip module you can remove the pin from the grip module and pull the back of the grip module away from the FCU enough to pull the safety lever pin to then allow takedown.
@5:50, you say be carful not to let the levers fall out. They fell out, do you have instructions on how to put that back together?
We don't have our own video on installing the takedown safety bar but you can use this video at about the 11 min mark. ua-cam.com/video/TFVyvqdpouA/v-deo.htmlsi=kIMj7Qz3fFSVWQhl
Will this work with other aftermarket flat triggers. Like mcarbo
Wheres the video for pre travel adjustment?
There isn't one up currently. We've had problems with UA-cam removing videos lately. We will get one posted either on the website or on UA-cam within the next couple of weeks.
The adjustment process is similar to the overtravel stop. The layered end of the pre-travel stop is one layer adjustable. The top layer can be bent back and forth a couple times to break off to be removed. The other 4 layers are welded so it's fairly easy to spot the layer that can be removed.
Okay thanks. I'll be installing mine this afternoon/evening.
@@jeremylyson8278 it is very rare to need to adjust the pre-travel stop. The primary reason for adjustment would be if the amount of pre-travel reduction is causing an interlock issue with the takedown lever and slide catch which makes slide removal more difficult than desired. Based on tolerance of the parts involved this won't happen on very many guns out there so likely you won't encounter this issue anyway.
Yeah I hear ya, but im an odd ball. Lol. I actually like pretravel. Kindof feels like alittle extra safety to me. I thought about leaving it out, but I was thinking about maybe little less pretravel, but not as much as in the video.
One question- your round spring- does the rod go through the spring or under the take down rod?
The safety lever pin goes through the center of the sear control spring. The purpose of this spring is to increase the thickness of the pin. It isn't actually acting as a spring.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Glad I read the comments before asking a Q. I didn't see removal of a different "sear control spring", so I was wondering how you were able to put the new one in. I'm thinking about a 365 Macro, and have heard that the trigger is marginal. I assume you have kits for it?
@@johnthornley6168 Yes, this same kit is compatible with the XMACRO
@@tacticaltriggerllc This confused me for a while, and I'm glad I found this comment. It'd be great if the instructions mentioned the rod going through the spring, and the spring only increasing the thickness
Dang. I didn't realize it was so many steps.
could you please do a better video on the safety checks? Its the most important step but with low light and your speed I couldn't follow along. I installed it and just want to be sure. Thanks in advance.
We are planning to provide some more detailed videos within the coming weeks. For now there is another more detailed video that can help. ua-cam.com/video/sneACYpHzt0/v-deo.html
I wish this video gave me better close up’s
To be clear, if I have a manual safety version, I do need to purchase the Modified OEM Manual Safety option and replace my stock manual safety lever, but I can reuse the spring and detent?
Correct, you'll need the modified lever but you can use the same spring and detent.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Understood. How many rounds have you shot with this kit (approx) installed? Any potential quirks or issues?
@@andrewryan1946 The concepts were developed when the first P365s were released and have been in use and testing ever since. We fired tens of thousands of rounds through different test guns and haven't ever experienced any failures. The only failure we ever observed was on a p365 that was missing the striker reset spring and not attributed to the trigger in any way. We provide safety and reliability checks to help ensure proper margins are maintained.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Wonderful, thank you for answering my questions. Will definitely be ordering
@@andrewryan1946 Question. I have the manual safety in my p365xl, but I removed the safety. As far as I know, every p365 fcu has the ability to add or delete the safety. So If I want to use my current p365xl without safety, If I wanted to buy this tactical trigger, I will be purchasing the non-safety version. Is that correct?
Can you convert a safety model to none safety model with the combination of parts or is it built permanently into the FCU
Yes, you can just remove the manual safety and use a grip module without the manual safety cutouts to convert it.
@@tacticaltriggerllc awesome thanks! Probably going to make an xmacro lower 365xl upper mutant with your trigger kit as I’ve heard good things.
I need to get your trigger! Where can I get em?
www.tacticaltriggers.com
what has the sear control spring (your new spring) do to change on the gun??
It reduces sear to striker engagement which in turn reduces the travel from the wall to break. The P365 has more engagement than most other striker fired guns which makes the trigger feel a bit spongy. The end result when using the appropriate sear control spring is a clean short break.
@@tacticaltriggerllc so technically you said to make sure you get full striker-sear face coverage/engagement when safety checking. But the point of the spring is to reduce the above for a crisper break. So I'm a bit confused now as to how much coverage is needed for a safe trigger.
@@GentleBrawl The appropriate margins for sear engagement is at least full coverage of the sear interfacing surface by the striker. If you look at the sear where it interfaces with the striker there is a rectangular surface that interfaces with the sear. Below that surface is a gap then a ramp. That sear interfacing surface is what needs full coverage.
@Tactical Trigger, LLC So this maintains the same level of safety as a stock gun? Still just as drop/vibration safe?
What if I've installed the Mcarbo spring kit, including the lighter striker safety spring? Sorry for the specific question, but I really want that crisp break that people say this provides, but don't want an unsafe carry gun.
@@75675761 yes, the kit is designed to maintain full safety and reliability margins inherent to the stock design. As far as the mCarbo spring kit, we wouldn't recommend using a reduced power striker spring since it can degrade primer strikes reliability. I also wouldn't recommend the reduced power sear spring as it is the most difficult part to replace on the p365 and provides little pull weight reduction based balance to maintain proper function. Our reduced power striker safety spring alone provides as much pull weight reduction as all 3 springs in the mCarbo kit and won't degrade reliability and still maintains proper striker safety function.
The SAS trigger in this video has that mushy sound like mind 😩
It was a fairly new gun not very broken in yet. They sound more snappy after they get more rounds through them.
Any real difference in feeling between the curved and flat trigger?
With the kit, the performance is the same between the curved and flat. Curved or flat really comes down to preference look and feel. For me, I shoot either about the same. Others may feel the shoot better with one over the other.
Is it Available and functioning for Manual Safety models?
Yes, it is. A modified manual safety lever is needed for compatibility when using a sear control spring though. The option to include a modified manual safety lever is available with the kit.
What orientation does the sear control spring go? Up down or left right? If you die. It sits on top of the pin?
The sear control spring goes around the safety lever pin inside the FCU. It isn't acting as a spring. It is used as a spacer to increase the thickness of the safety lever pin.
@@tacticaltriggerllc to increase the thickness? Doesn’t it put pressure on the safety lever so it doesn’t turn easier thus making the safety stronger against bump/drop firing?
@@CplGoldFish21No, the sear control spring isn't acting as a spring putting pressure on anything. The safety lever pin is also the stop point for the ride height of the sear. So by increasing its effective thickness with the sear control spring, it lowers the ride height of the sear.
what's before and after poundage?
A stock trigger can be as high as 6 pounds but usually around 5 lbs. With a polished striker and our reduced power striker safety spring, they can be as low as 3 lbs but will usually be around 3.5#.
No matter what I do the sear control spring doesn't seem to want to slide onto the pin. It seems the trigger bar won't let the spring come back any further to be seated properly on the pin. I'm using the #3 and can't get it to seat. Any extra tips on how to install?
When removing the trigger bar the spring sits far enough back to slide onto the pin, but obviously the trigger bar HAS to be in before the safety pin goes in
First thing is to clarify what the sear control spring is doing. It isn't acting as a spring it acts to increase the thickness of the safety lever pin like a tube or spacer. The safety lever pin is also the stop point for the ride height of the sear so by increasing the thickness it lowers the ride height of the sear. With this said, there needs to be enough clearance by pushing down on the sear to allow the spring to slide over the safety lever pin.
So a tip to help is to press down on the sear at the same time while pushing in the safety lever pin. If you push the sear down too far it may bind up as well so you may need to try finding the right amount of downward pressure to give good clearance for the spring. Hope that helps.
Whenever I push down on the sear I can see through the safety pin hole that no matter how hard I push down, the spring is not fully aligned with the hole. This causes the pin to just push the spring into the other side. Is it possible the tolerances the gun was made with simply don't allow space for the spring. Or is there a way to push down the sear even further while keeping the trigger bar in place?
@@danielamaya7756 I'm not sure I'm following you on the interaction with the trigger bar. The sear control spring can be installed with the trigger spring removed, trigger bar out of the way, and disconnector removed to view the through hole of the safety lever pin from the opposite side. This can be helpful to reinstall the safety lever as well. Is this what you are doing? Feel free to call to discuss.
Does this fit the p365 x macro as well?
Yes it does. They are the same FCU and slide parts between all p365 models.
@@tacticaltriggerllc thank you I was thinking that was the case but wanted to make sure before ordering
Works on the 385X Macro also?
Yes, the kit also works in the P365 XMACRO
So is adjusting the sear height to lower the trigger pull weight?
The pull weight is independent of sear engagement. Pull weight is reduced by using the reduced power safety plunger spring. Reducing sear engagement with a sear control spring reduces the travel distance from the wall to break which eliminates the spongy feel of the stock trigger.
@@tacticaltriggerllc got ya. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@aaronkoch100 no problem 👍
@@bierakanus5463 A reduced power striker spring would lighten pull weight but it also reduces the primer strike strength which reduces reliability. For this reason, we wouldn't recommend ever using a reduced power striker/firing pin spring.
Do you guys install too or just sell the triggers?
We just sell but we work with an FFL to offer installation services. If interested in install send us an email at tacticaltriggers@gmail.com to set it up.
@@tacticaltriggerllc cool thanks
Glad I watched this video. Convinced me to not buy this. I would end up with all the shit you say to make sure doesn't happen absolutely would and I would have a cool looking paperweight. I would love this upgrade I'm just not qualified to do it.
We also offer installation service through an FFL in Utah if you are interested in going that route.
@@tacticaltriggerllc Thank you. Will think about it.
Is the flat trigger the same as the one that comes with XL?
Yes it is. So if you have it already, you don't need to get it with the kit.
Hi, my,... My gun was taken apart so that I would be forced to put it back together, and I did, the only thing is that i left out that small small spring, That I think is included with the p365 xl , it was being cleaned amongs another ss p365 , and now the small is missing(Striker Reset Spring) , I believe it was thrown away. I need to replace it, but according to some forums, they said it's no longer needed with the new version of sig sauer p365 xl. my gun seems to reset after slide lock and when i pull the trigger( magazine out) it makes a normal click . I haven't shot it with live ammo, But I was just wondering.
Striker Reset Spring
Brand : Sig Sauer
SKU:2700023-R UPC:798681612048, do I really need this if the Gun resets with no problem.
thank you for your time
If your Sig P365 XL has the black striker, it does not come with a striker sleeve spring. It is the small 2 coils spring at the back of the striker in the sleeve. Called Sig customer service and they verified that.
Sorry I didn't see this comment back when it was posted. In my experience during extensive testing, one of the only failures I had with a p365 was due to a missing striker reset spring. It contributed to loss of slide cycling energy resulting by not getting the striker out of the way (striker drag) that cause the slide to get hung up without chambering a new round. Once the striker reset spring was installed no issue like that ever again. I would suggest getting the striker reset spring installed for best reliability as intended in the design.