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Stihl Chainsaw Motor Ruined! PART 2. What I've Learned From My Viewers!
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2023
- If you are new to chainsaws, need a refresher or a left handed person this chainsaw training is for you. Things everyone needs to know before buying any chainsaw. Mine is and was a STIHL MS 261 C-M 20 in. 50.2 cc Gas Chainsaw. My viewers have commented and shared a wealth of knowledge for us to learn from. I am learning as I go so let's learn together. stay sharp, cut straight and be safe!
Here's the product overview of the MS 261 C-M. It has all the same great features as the MS 261 - low exhaust emissions, high fuel efficiency and robust performance - but also features the advanced STIHL M-tronic engine management system. With STIHL M-tronic, an onboard microprocessor digitally monitors and automatically compensates for changes in your work conditions including elevation, temperature, fuel quality, varying octane levels and dirty air filters. The end result is maximum performance across a wide range of cutting conditions without making any manual adjustments. The MS 261 C-M also features redesigned cylinders and a slimmer, ergonomic housing for an impressive power-to-weight ratio.
Anti-vibration system has developed a system for minimizing the vibration levels of handheld outdoor power equipment
Pre-separation air filtration system time-saving technology boosts the efficiency of the engines filter system, doubling the time between air filter cleanings
The side-access chain tensioner makes it much more convenient for the user to adjust the saw chain with a bar wrench as opposed to the typical location of the guide bar adjustment screw
The decompression valve temporarily reduces the compression in the combustion chamber during cranking and helps reduce the effort needed to pull the starter rope
Toolless fuel and oil caps with retainers simply lift the lever and twist the caps to remove or tighten
Front hand guard is designed to reduce the risk of injury
Front handle is designed for a secure grip and ergonomically angled for comfort
Protected spark plug is protected, yet easy to change
Large starting handle is easy to grip
Smooth clean design has no rough edges to snag on clothing or brush
After watching you cut I can see that the chain is still dull. give it 10 strokes on each side and see if it is any better, As Bucken Billy says, don't worry about taking off to much chain. In my years of cutting I have found that cutting with a half dull chain and only giving it only a few strokes and not getting it good and sharp will ware back faster than a chain that is sharp. Thus forcing you to sharpen sooner. If you want to know if the chain is good and sharp get down there with a magnifying glass and get a good look. It will tell you a lot. Stay safe and happy cutting.
Thank you brother!n I will do it.
Well Jim, don't that make all the sense in the world? A "half sharp" chain... is a DULL chain. So it would stand to reason that you would need to sharpen it sooner. BECAUSE IT'S DULL! LMAO
Get the back of the blade up against the log.. It will help steady the cut... I didn't notice if it had teeth on the saw, these also help...
Okay. I'm going to subscribe because I like your candid Style. Learned a lot from this video from a guy who admits he's not an expert, but is ready to listen to people with more experience. It's refreshing to see someone make mistakes, admit to them, and correct them.
Awesome! I am glad to have you as a subscriber. Thank you! My hope is that I will be able to retain all of the great input that I have received from everyone. Take care.
When you file each stroke take the file off when you drag back you scratch the sharpend edge
Good job on making a follow up and good info! I’m no pro- but find it refreshing that you admit your mistakes and teach what to do instead
@@PhillipDrumz thank you a lot for your kind words. There’s no doubt I’m learning every day and I’m certainly not afraid to admit where I’m wrong. I’ve been wrong a long time and I’m sure there will be more coming. Thank you for watching and hope all is well.
I have a MS261C and I've beat the crap out of that thing and it still starts on the first pull.
The 2 in 1 is the way to go for non-professionals. Buck'n is good people [he's a little windy and and can get 'out' there sometimes, but hey, he's a drummer :-)].
Your sharpening skills are getting there. Those chunks were ........ OK, they can be bigger / better. I usually give each tooth about 5-7 strokes per sharpening.
In addition to the 87 other things you have to pay attention to while sharpening, make sure there is 'enough' pressure on the flat file of the 2 in 1.
Great video for chainsaw beginners! I too am left handed and it took me a while of reminding myself to hold it properly. 🤣 Glad to see you using the chain brake; keep it up and it will become second nature and you won't even think about it anymore. What I was taught was: use it whenever you take one hand off the chainsaw. I like to roll my wrist forward rather than using the heel of my palm, then reach forward with my finger while my thumb still wrapped on the handle to disengage.
The only other tip that I have learned is to lift the nose of your bar when tensioning your chain and again when tightening the bar nuts; it takes a little more of the play out of the chain. Oh, and don't over tighten the bar nuts; just a gentle nudge more once you feel resistance is enough. Not sure if you were the one who put the bar and chain on previously or if it was a gorilla at the dealer, but they looked way too tight when you tried to loosen them to flip the bar.
And I love that you don't edit out your "learning experiences"! There were a few times that I was yelling at the screen that you must have heard because you figured it out and corrected. The face shield saga cracked me up when the realization set in for you. 😂
Keep the videos coming and keep showing us the Lovely Place! It really is a beautiful spot you two have there.
Sweet dude! Thanks a lot. I feel like a fool sometimes but hey, it's real so I just live and learn. Great advice that I will get on top of. Take care and thanks for the support. P.S. I heard you yelling. lol!
i have been fileing by hand for years.the sthil 2 in one changed that.Best product ive bougth in years.lean in to the file towards the thooth and it will make courser chips=sharper
I am a 40+ years chainsaw user in the UK,
Re, the 2 stroke oil mix, be very carefull about running at 40:1, if you are not running your saw for long periods the extra oil can build up carbon in the cylinder & exhaust and that can cause damage. My suggestion is that 40:1 is for pro heavy users, if you are just an occasional user you are better to stick to 50:1.
Re, the fuel stabiliser, if you use moto mix you don't need stabiliser. If you use pump fuel you might want to use it, however that is dependent on the ethanol content of your fuel.
Re, sharpening, If you are learning from Buckin Billy be very carefull to listen and make your own mind up about what applies to your specific circumstances. He is quite often experimenting with methods that would be ill adivised for a learner to undertake. He does however have some very good advice for learners, you just need to understand which is which.
Hey my friend in the UK, thank you so much for your advice. There are great comments and many of them conflict with each other but your comment seems to be well thought out and logical. I definitely want this salt to last for many years to come. I have definitely learned that sharpening is one of the most important parts of using a chainsaw. I have enjoyed watching his channel as well. Take care, and God bless.
I have a Stihl MS 261 C and had it ported and never run less than 40 to one also. 50 to one is government BS. I also have a Stihl 500 I and love that saw too. Always keep my chains sharp.
I own an old 026 (the original of your 261). The original owner let it go so downhill that it needed new bearings, seals, oil pump and numerous other things to be replaced. I took it off his hands for $150 and put in around $200 in parts. The failures were started by him not getting his oil pump system fixed and continued to use it without oil.
But now, it's my best saw. Nothing slows it down. Starts easy, runs so nice and idles like a dream. All I can recommend is to set your oil pump to max output and make sure its oiling properly.
What a great buy and impressive work. Thank you for the great advice! Thanks for watching.
Saw on the ground-bar nuts loose-pick up on end of bar-adjust chain-tighten nuts. Get all PPE and wear it.
I have the same sharpener and even number of strokes per link method didn't work well for me. When you push the file thru it grabs at first but gets easier and smoother then gets real easy and the sound changes that is when it is sharp. don't worry about cutting down on the chain life. The cutting edge gets dull uneven, mainly from dirt in the bark and each speck might only get hit by one or two teeth. When you have a straight edge going all the way across the tooth it is good. I was disappointed the first chain I sharpen with this tool doing counted strokes. Then I started filing listening to the sound and feel and watching the cutting edge. Now i get curls not dust or chips. Never stop learning and life gets easier.
You might be well served to just get your chains sharpened by a pro while you learn to use that higher performance pro saw. Touch the chain up a bit after a few tanks, but spend the $5 to have someone bring them back into spec and just concentrate on safe saw operation for now. Probably stick to green chains for now.
When cutting, pay close attention to the tip of your bar (where it is, what it may touch) and stand to the side of the cut line. If the bar tip kicks back it will kick up in an instant and ruin your day.
It you get in a brush pile, watch your bar and also your footing. If you are moving around in a pile, set the chain brake.
Sorry for the lecture, I just don't want to see you get hurt. You are like a 16 year old driving a Ferrari.
Also you need to hold your tip up when you tighten the bar nuts up
My stihl dealer told me to run 40 to 1 he said back in the day saws used to run 32 to 1. He said epa made companies use less and less 2 stroke oil to meet regulations I’m not sure if it’s true or not but it makes sense the gov messes everything else up leave it to them to screw up chainsaws to. That star tron is awesome stuff I use it also
Also I’m gonna subscribe you seem like a cool down to earth dude keep up the good work!
Thanks! I am glad to hear from you. You are 100% right, the government has a way of taking just about everything that has been working for years and with all their brilliant wisdom they absolutely ruin things! So I am trying to find the best 2 cycle oil to use from now on. I hear so many different opinions but don’t know for sure which one to stick with. What are your thoughts? By the way thanks for subscribing!
That's not why they run 50/1 now, the old oil was ordinary sae 30 and not specific to 2 strokes, it was muck compared to modern two stroke oils and also running too much oil causes overheating. Been running near enough 50/1 with Stihl HP super on 7 saws for years and all running perfectly
@@TheLovelyPlace hey sorry I didn’t see the notification that you replied until now but I run the regular stihl oil in the orange bottle. I run it because I can definitely tell it’s mixed gas and it’s great stuff I’ve never had an issue with burning one up.
Actually time to find a new dealer. Back in the day motor oil was used to mix with gas for a chainsaw. 50:1 is 100% correct. What you will find is it is NOT motor oil, it is specific to 2 stroke machines. IF I service an older saw it is all choked up with carbon from people running 40:1. I service a fleet of saw and as long as they run 50:1 zero issues. Fuel stabilizer does not work, run your saw on premium fuel only. The fuel is good for 90 days. after than put it in the car. Learn how to use the 2 in 1 file correctly it makes a certain sound when it is being used correctly.
I have about 500 face cords on my ms441. The gas I purchase is alcohol free highest octane that I can purchase, mix it with Stihl two stroke oil mix at 45 to 1. Also when the gas is one month old and still in the can, it gets poured out. As you mentioned, let the saw warm up, and also take out the spark arrestor grid. Otherwise it will plug up eventually and cause the engine to run bad.
If all else fails read the owners manual. I noted a couple of errors in your tensioning method. Sharpening needs done slightly differently as well. Hint: don’t drag your files on the chain on the return stroke. Less than five strokes is time wasted. More than ten requires professional sharpening.
Few comments
1st: on your sharpening, don’t drag the file on your backstroke, lift your file off the chain and place it again. When you drag on the backstroke you’ll collapse the sharpening edge overtime and the file will need to be replaced MUCH sooner… Kinda looks like you already did collapse it. On your cut you have chips not dust, but they are small chips. I’d guess your rakers are too high which would make sense because you’re flat file would be more prone to collapse than your round file. You probably have a decent cutting edge but it’s shallow because of the raker height.
2nd: 50:1 should work well for your saw. Older saws did need more oil, but newer ones are designed for 50:1. Using 40:1 in a newer saw will just gum up your carburetor over time and then you won’t be get the proper fuel to air mix. This could lead to running your saw too hot or could just not start at all.
3rd: I like longer chaps, but as long as you’re chaps cover the top of your boot then they’re fine. (There should never be a gap between your chaps and your boot) Also don’t cut the pocket flap you’ll just end up filling it with wood chips.
Oh and 4th you’re chain is a little tight. I’ve always been told 3 drivers should be able to lift out of the bar channel. A tight chain can really heat up your bar if you’re using it for an extended period, which messes up a lot of things. Bonus tip: the back of a butter knife works really well to scrape your bar when cleaning it, and don’t forget to look to make sure your oil holes aren’t clogged when scraping. (They clog up all the time, and if you don’t have anything better a pine needle will work to unclog it in a pinch)
I use the Stihl motomix stuff. Haven’t had issues with it. Might also try the VP 50:1 stuff which is 94. If I really want to go overkill, mix Amsoil Dominator oil with VP’s 94 octane fuel that doesn’t have oil. Make my own mix.
As far as sharpening goes, I have the 2 in 1 and I like it. I do want to get in to learning how to square file at some point. You should also have spare chains with you as well. I have at least 4. 2 of them are semi chisel or the green safety ones. Other 2 are full chisel or yellow. I always clean my chains before I sharpen them. Just to keep organic material out of the files. Boiling water, drain cleaner, let it soak for 5-10 mins. Then take a brush and Dawn power scrub to clean it more. Then rinse. Then dry the chain with compressed air. Then sharpen it. Then run the saw after and coat the chain with oil. I also clean the saw before I sharpen chains too. This method I am open to anyone who thinks it’s wrong and if there’s a better way, let me know.
I actually have an MS261. If you want straight cutting, get West Cost Saw felling dogs plus the chain catcher. You will need hardware which they sell. I love them. That’s all you need really. I then got an exhaust port and then the intake for it. Runs a lot cooler
Please stay with the Blue Stihl product.
It’s specifically designed for the metallurgy of those saws.
Having said that, I use ultra high end two stroke racing oil for speedway and motocross…because I have buckets of it. 14 years through a MS 311 and other saws, no issues. If it dies I’ll fix it, no worries. Stihl mechanic. Australia
@@glennllewellyn7369 I’m actually using Amsoil Saber which is designed for chainsaws. It’s not a racing oil.
I been running pre mixed 50:1for years in all my small equipment never burned up anything. And as far as fuel treatment I use seafoam once or twice a year it works awesome just my opinion
great video
Always pick the tip
Of the bar up tighten the chain tight then when you start the saw the bar will equal out and tightness will be right ▶️
Pulling the chain to gauge how tight is contentious because of how much pressure you apply.Best way to tension the chain is to hold their bar tip up, slowly turn the screw and as the bottom of the chain touches the rail that's where it should be.Another indication is when the chainsaw is revved up and the throttle is released the chain should not immediately stop,if it does it's way too tight.
Great advice!
Loved your tutorial but feel you should have addressed 2 additional important points.
First, Stihl manufactures 3 different temperature chain oils and recommends using different oils for different seasons. For example, winter time sawing you should use light chain oil and summertime you should be using a heavy chain oil. I live in Ontario, Canada so when the outdoor temperature is between 0 to 15 Celsius, I use a medium chain oil.
Secondly, this chainsaw has a small orange clip within the motor housing that either directs the engine heat away from the engine during summertime cutting or directs the heat into the engine during wintertime cutting . If this clip is in the incorrect position, you will probably fry your engine. Hope this helps.
Ken ( Canadian Lad)😅
Great advice and information! I appreciate your input. I am going to look into to that orange clip. Thanks for watching!
The fuel stabilizers for long-term, possibly short term storage
Using fuel stabilizer is a good idea. Use ethanol free gas if at all possible.The stihl oil you’re using is inadequate at 50:1 & runs dirty at 40:1. Use the oil in the white bottle instead. Better yet, use Echo oil & mix it at 40:1.
Whaaaat?
So you are saying that the best thing to do to get good performance from a Stihl saw is to ignore the manufacturer’s advice?
Yes, a Stihl 2 in 1 is a good tool for people who are not experienced in free filing a chain. The rest of us who master the technique also use it as it is undeniably the fastest sharpening method. 😄
Lift the file from the tooth on the way back and do not press down on the 2 in 1 file during the forward stroke.
I always mix it a little rich
Agreed, though no more than 10% extra oil.
A Credit card or any card cleans the bar out well.
Did you consider that the chainsaw you purchased new was actually somewhat used? A person may have bought and ran the saw with no oil mix and then returned it soon after purchase.
Fine honest job. Forget the $$$ Stihl mix, way overpriced . If the saws are used a lot just mix NON ETHANOL like AV gas or 90 octane at 50-1. The Pferd 2in1 s used by Stihl are exceptional for round reg chains. JMNSHO ( Not a drummer---trumpet).
Mmmmm…Avgas…
We need beers!
Australia
How are you getting a Stihl chainsaw to run on Avgas?? You would need to alter the timing to do this. The reason I know this is that I run racing GP bikes (125cc) on unleaded racing fuels as well as Avgas depending on the championships we are running in. The different fuels involve not only changing the head to alter the combustion geometry, but also altering the ignition timing. Neither of these things can be easily altered on a Stihl chainsaw unless it is heavily modified ie separate barrel and head and adjustable keyway in the flywheel. Unless there is something else I don't know about??
i have 6 Stihl saws includeing a 261. I run Red Can 50:1 TRUEFUEL. My saws run start and ive not had any issues. expensive but ive had zero issues.
Also I see people tighten there chains WAY WAY to much. They need to move FREELY by hand. If you struggle to slide the chain on the bar its to tight... imagine the stress on the chain as the motor is turning it in wood then its already super tight and causing more stress. understand that a saw needs a break... You cant just blast 20 inch oak chunks 20 in a row on a 90 degree day.. Mix it up.... There is a reason most tree guys have 3 4 5 saws. Each one has a role. You dont just grab one saw and think it can go 1 hour straight in big wood. You can cook it. Now the big block saws can make longer cuts and handle that work better 661 for instance. Most folks fall and buck big trees with it and put it on a Mill to slab. Imagine trying to hammer a 8 inch spike with a little framing hammer. You can do it but its going to take you a long long time... Where if you had a sledge or large hammer 10 wacks and your done.
ill add this. I grew up around wood cutting and saws. I recently got back into tree work 5 years ago. I also own a 2nd property and needed to clear it. After 3 years of goofing around cutting trees EVERY weekend I finally feel like Im an amateur tree guy. Chainsaws take a LONG time to master and use and get the feel for. The issue is even pro tree guys are Unlucky. A True pro just died about 2 weeks ago his name was Jed Walters. This guy was of a level of pro faller pro tree worker and pro climber. ALL 3 are not the same. You can fall and NEVER climb. Jed did all 3 and did them professionally. He died under a tree. ANYONE can. Tree work is INSANE dangerous even for people that do it daily for there job. Things can go wrong. IVE had hangers that were due to my lack of experience. Looking back I was putting myself in deadly situations without even know it.
Indian name-old 2 helmet -I like the husqvarna roller guide to sharpen--keep filing til teeth edges are sharp-you can feel it with your finger.
Your saw seems to be dull as someone commented below. Also, you seem to try to explain things thoroughly and so I noticed that you didn't explain comparing the chain and bar to the sprocket size on the chainsaw. My 261 uses a link length of 8.25 mm or .325. I was thinking about putting a different bar I had on it but it had a 9.32 mm or 3/8" link length. Your bar looks somewhat used and I am wondering if it came with the saw. If not, you may want to check that.
Buckin billy ray smith thanks
Best thing to do…. READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!!!! A lot of that information is located in there
Do not use Startron!!!! Unless you use all the fuel in a day or two! Startron pulls water into the fuel if you let it sit ! Great product if you use fuel quickly!
great video its sez 2.6 per gallon i always just do 3.0 per gallon in a gallon can because probly get like 2.8 out of the oil container im guessing some oil dont make it out the container plus if i go a little over a gallon im still good just my opinion.
More stuff: rejected or throw away dental tools are fine to 'pick' out debris from all those tiny tiny holes all over the saw and bar ( small oil hole).. Free tools. Good job again !
P.S. Chain looks like it's dull cutting. It should feed itself and faster in small logs like shown.
"Stand up and buck"
Dressed bar instead of vin track should be u shape
Something else to remember whenever you’re getting that gallon of gas I use 91 octane, no ethanol be sure to run a few gallons in your vehicle first and then get your mixture of gas. Otherwise you may be getting a gallon or two of the person that bought gas before you got there.
That’s great advice! Important point! Some of the pumps have a separate hose for the non ethanol. I am not sure but I believe in that case you’re safe because that specific hose should only supply that specific fuel.
@@TheLovelyPlace absolutely correct. Here in UK all grades have dedicated hoses.
Learn to start up your chainsaw safely!There is two ways to do it.Check users manual,most beginners throw it rubbish bin😂Obviesly using too long bar for 261,,using 14"to16"gives you best performance for 50cc saw.Cutting a small wood with long bar can be extremly dangerous for beginner.Don't get me wrong,i'm not trying to be smarta.s.Overall i liked your video👍🏻
Still think that chain is too tight :(
21:49 check your chain brake… I bet you it’s on..
Helmet ? Face ?
It’s not a blade it’s a chain please refer to as such but you really need to do a chainsaw maintenance course it will help you a great deal 😂😂
Dull chain for sure.
Your problem is the quality of oil you are using! Stay away from Stihl oil use Red Armor Motul 800 or some equal oil to those.
red armour and Motul will not warranty your saw when they fail. stuff is trash, does not burn cleanly and it separates. This comes from their testing dept.
@@Rockjock007
Motul is the preferred oil for most motor cycle manufacturers to be used in their Moto -cross two stroke bikes. I have used Motul 800 at 50:1 and have not had one failure or problems with oil separating. In fact when I take a project saw apart it has very good signs of lubrication. But I understand everyone has their opinion and choice.
I don't know where you're getting your advice from, but you really need to learn how to use a chainsaw correctly. Flipping the bar is good practice. However, your cleaning method is totally off the mark and is damaging your chainsaw blade. Dragging a metal screwdriver through the chain gullet is causing damage to the gullet and oil channel. You never want to drag any kind of metal except for perhaps some soft metal like copper or aluminum. A hardwood strip that fits and is shaped to the gullet is great. Or, if you can find a dense piece of plastic that fits in the gullet and is deep enough to reach the bottom, that would be ideal. Non ferrous metals, plastic or nylon do not scratch or damage metal like steel and chrome plated screwdrivers.
The act of dragging screwdrivers through the chain gullet causes scratches inside the gullet walls. This creates and generates friction that can and does cause uneven wear far more than not flipping the blade every will.
I could not see your blade evenly. However, as you were flipping and cleaning I thought for sure that I detected a change on the prime or, bottom edge of the blade. The top edge looks Ok, but is also showing signs of overheating.
The differences on the bottom and primary edge of your chain blade is damaged due to friction and overheating. I saw you do your cutting in a previous video and it was evidently clear that your inexperience in handling the saw correctly are what's contributing to the crooked cutting, uneven wear and the chain blade damage.
The scoring and pitting on your piston is probably due to a myriad of mistakes and improperly mixed gasoline. It could also be that you are using an ethanol based gasoline in your engine. Big mistake. You should ONLY and always use clear white gasoline with zero additives. Mix your gas at the 40:1 ratio as suggested. You will always get your best performance from a straight gas with no ethanol and no fuel additives.
Use your fuel stabilizers only according to directions. However, if its a ethanol based product, there is a good chance you're causing damage to your engine. Ethanol burns much hotter than gas and causes overheating issues in small 2 stroke engines, which is what your chainsaw motor is.
Motor and engine are both correct and proper. Whatever people believe that they should be called is sometimes ridiculous and silly... But a chainsaw motor is in fact a 2 stroke internal combustion engine. Motor is an interchangeable identifier and can apply equally to electric or petroleum based motors. But even here, electric motors can and are also referred to as engines. Such is the case for a diesel electric engine. It's how the words are used and applied. Neither is wrong and both can be applied correctly as you have done.
You are doing the right thing by asking your viewers for advice. Some of the advice might be good. But keep in mind, there are a crap load of viewers who are knuckleheads that only believe that they know how to use a chainsaw. A lot of people get severely or seriously injured from improperly using a chainsaw. Some also get killed because they failed to learn and study how a chainsaw works and how it should be used. Use of a chainsaw is no different than carrying and using a firearm of any kind. Both can be deadly. Every year hundreds of people are maimed with chainsaws and guns, and every year dozens die from improperly using a chainsaw or a gun. Your gun training and gun safety is good and useful information. It can easily be translated over to chainsaw use. Both have the potential of being very deadly tools if handled improperly.
And while I am certainly no expert in chainsaw use, I have used them on and off for my whole life, so I have a good solid understanding of how to use them safely. I am 68.5 years old. I've never been hurt using a chainsaw because my late Dad taught me well. You still have a lot to learn, but you are on the right track. Nice video, thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
Dull chain.
Ultra is some dirty shit 2 stroke oil! Anyone that’s been inside of stihls that have been ran on ultra will agree that 50:1 is not enough oil and that oil is dirty dirty dirty oil! It’s not even a JASO rated oil! Also a lot of those stabilizer additives have a problem for leaning out your gas and if your running 50:1 which is to lean already adding the additives now you just leaned it out again.
Good to know.
@@TheLovelyPlace
Yeah. Ultra is junk. Probably the worst.
I myself like motul 800, motul 710, mobil 1 2t racing, castrol power 1 racing 2t.
Many people in the us like amsoil (just maintain 40:1), echo red amour, maxima k2, maxima super m, honda hp2, belray h1-r(expensive but good), yamaha 2r. If you buy a quart or even a gal. jug, your added cost per unit of fuel will in most cases be less compared to buying them tiny bottles.
As you can see, most oils above are intended for 2t motorcycles.
Also a lot of people have great success with full synth. snowmobile oil, I have not tried myself though, but if it is good enough for ~200hp rotax, polaris, arctic cat , then it should be more than sufficient for a chainsaw.
Anyways if you go for jaso fd / iso eg d then you will get decent oil (it is the highest official spec from japan & europe in regards to two stroke oil).
You talk toomuch
Please, less talking ?
Should have bought a husky, I’m just saying
Then he would be fixing the saw instead o of cutting wood.. poulan crap... you are aware that stihl outsell husqvarna in sweden right?