Underlayment should be overlaping to shed water/condensation. Also need vehicle strips so condensation can weep off from beneath the metal panels. So many short cuts, in roofing. Hate the acrhtectural glue fest shingles. Roofing like everything, give less product for more money.
this is a textbook example of misinformation. do not install metal roofing over asphalt shingles. period. especially not expensive, high-quality standing seam roofing. it is absurd to spend time and money prepping the roof deck over those shingles instead of using that time/$ removing the shingles! i have been a licensed general contractor for 30 yrs. everyone from my world will tell you the same. the asphalt will continue to break down over time, creating space underneath the fasteners, creating movement from normal, daily expansion/contraction which will result in expanding penetrations, loose fasteners, then leaks and lower resistance to failure from wind, snow, etc. you guys promoting yourselves on YT by doing jack-lack, improper work as 'instructional' are likely exposing yourselves to liability lawsuits in the future. i sincerely hope that for you.
Brian, I'm looking at getting a new roof and was thinking about a metal roof over shingles, because of the difficulty of removing shingles that are bonded to the 100% coverage of Ice & Water shield. Would probably require the entire tear off of shingles and plywood. Do you have any videos on your channel that show the proper technique and other considerations when considering put metal over asphalt shingles as well as other pitfalls. I'm always looking for good information.
My question is about attic ventilation. How is that handled either over existing shingles or after shingle removal? Do you still need the same amount of ventilation as you would with a shingle roof?
Yes, ventilation is a critical step no matter what roofing material you use. If the roof had proper ventilation before, say with ridge vents, then those would get incorporated in the new system. If you were having condensation issues or other problems caused by poor ventilation, a re-roof is your opportunity to get that fixed. I recommend consulting with a contractor who is knowledgeable in this area, as it can get complicated. Hope this helps! -Thad
It's fine going over shingles, just get panels with striations with galvalume finish without paint. I wouldn't scare people away from that unless the roof deck is completely rotting away as it could save a lot of time and money.
We used to shim/tune purlins as needed, and even the clips if it were to cause a pucker and we used to tune our tile roofs this way as well. It was an option we offered that we could get extra for, based on what they saved from not having to strip/discard the old roof. I have an 8' x 1"x 2" aluminum extrusion I check the straightness if I see something moved excessively upon fastening as I go. Yes, it takes significantly longer than the blow & go ops we see these days, but well worth the effort because your jobs end up looking that much sweeter overall than the competitions. I mean, even using torn pieces of roof felt for shims under the dips you do see is helpful, at least if it's on your own roof. Roof felt under the panel and clips sometimes is all that's needed. It's pretty cheap/thin metal and we will always end up paying somewhere to bring it up to snuff. I like having an air space between metal and deck anyway and ways for any condensation to gas off, or to avoid that anaerobic condition that can persist between sealed, direct layers otherwise. Anaerobic conditions minimally, can cause even the old triple dipped galvi roofing barbs to rot and cause things like iron rot in the decking/framing itself.
I have seen here where houses that had metal roof put over shingles is that with the heat of summer the tar on the shigles melts and starts to run down the soffits on the house . . My sisters house has that problem and i don't want that for mine . Besides her installers cut off he exhaust vents for plumbing and air flow below the new metal roof . She has vaulted ceilings but i have an attic . I am up on a hill and winds are starting to blow off shingles and i think freezing temperatures are not helping . It is going to cost me 250 dollars to repair it for now since i have extra shingles . We are retired in our 70's so not something we could ever do . I am thinking metal but want more info on proper installation so i don't have the same issues my sister has . My house from front soffit to back soffit is 36 feet and end to end 100 feet long and is a ranch with vents in the roof and they are ony on the back . 4 of them plus exhaust vents for 4 bathrooms and kitchen . I want a roof that will last . house is a modular home built in 2004 as our retirement home
Nothing is Hurricane Proof 😆 but what your looking for in Florida is a manufacturer product code your local building and permit office can help you with that
Using panels with no striations to demonstrate roofing over shingles, but using panels with striations to demonstrate install after a rip. Obviously a rip is technically better, but the labour and dumping costs involved in a rip may not be worth it to every customer. Should at least be showing a direct comparison.
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Don't you think strapping will resolve the deck uneven issues? Also, when the mechanical double lock being use on the panels, does the profile of the panel higher than single lock/snap lock? Thank you.
Jeff mentioned at the end of this video that installing over battens may not solve the oil canning issue. The reason is, you're not actually fixing the inherent problems with the deck. The battens are still being fastened down to the wavy decking material. To answer your second question, you can get multiple sizes/heights of mechanical seam and snaplock panels. For Adam's house, we used an 1.5" snaplock, but we could've easily used an 1.5" mechanical seam as well. Folding over the seam 90 degrees vs.180 degrees does not change the seam height. -Thad
A contractor quoted my roof and told me that they would not install standing seam metal over an existing shingle roof. He quoted a metal shingle (Kasselwood) because they a re better suited to be installed over a single layer of asphalt shingles
Yes, metal shingles are often installed directly over a layer of existing asphalt shingles. The oil canning problems that we mention in this video won't be nearly as noticeable with metal shingles because of the built-in structure in each panel. Also, each metal shingle is much smaller than a standing seam panel. However, leaving on an existing asphalt shingle roof still will not allow for the plywood decking to be replaced if needed. We did do a series with the manufacturer of KasselWood, Isaiah Industries. You can check that out here if you are interested: ua-cam.com/play/PLrMRkz6smMg0GYBWGMrnfnyS4cySMm2we.html -Thad
It depends on a few factors, including what type of system you're going with. Check out this video for some real dollar figures for a few different options to help you compare: bit.ly/metal-roof-cost-price-video Hope this is helpful! -Thad
Awesome Video. It helps by reducing the errors in using 1x4 strips that may not be installed with the correct angles or spacing which would be more time consuming and you're at risk of installing it with a shoddy appearance. I would say the use of the padded underlayment will keep the roof in check longer than plywood alone, you may even get indentions anyway with plywood alone especially if a nail or screw starts to come out from heat or expansion. Who stays in a house longer than 40 years anyway?
We've been in this house since 1980(44 yrs) and re-roofed it twice. 1st time was due to hail damage(orig roof was approx 16-17 y.o), house built in 67 and had a 2/12 pitch roof w/3 tab. 2nd roof(1st re-roof for us) was around 1983-84). 3 tabs. The 3rd roof (2nd for us) was around 2005-06, architectural shingles over all new plywood and Ice and water shield (recommended due to low 2/12 pitch. We just had our first roof water leak several months ago, thought it was fixed, but now it's back. Due to the fact that the shingles were put down directly on top of the Ice & Water shield and are now permanently bonded together a simple repair is out of the question probably. So we're looking at a new roof most likely, soon.
Will you travel to Missouri? I have a metal house with a 30×50 garage and 40x40 barn. 20 years old (nails used by originalowners) and it needs all new roofing as I am seeing wood rot from water penitration.
You have done a lot of things on purpose to make things look worse
#1. ALWAYS WEAR SKATEBOARD SNEAKERS ON THAT TYPE ROOF.
#2. IF U FALL: UR FIRED B4 U HIT THE GROUND.
#3. GREAT INFO!!
What gauge is that steel roof?
What about furring out with 2x material on edge (much like a purlin)?
Underlayment should be overlaping to shed water/condensation. Also need vehicle strips so condensation can weep off from beneath the metal panels. So many short cuts, in roofing. Hate the acrhtectural glue fest shingles. Roofing like everything, give less product for more money.
What is best underlayment? Gaf deck armor? It's breathable?
What gauge roof is preferred? 22 gauge?
this is a textbook example of misinformation. do not install metal roofing over asphalt shingles. period. especially not expensive, high-quality standing seam roofing. it is absurd to spend time and money prepping the roof deck over those shingles instead of using that time/$ removing the shingles! i have been a licensed general contractor for 30 yrs. everyone from my world will tell you the same. the asphalt will continue to break down over time, creating space underneath the fasteners, creating movement from normal, daily expansion/contraction which will result in expanding penetrations, loose fasteners, then leaks and lower resistance to failure from wind, snow, etc. you guys promoting yourselves on YT by doing jack-lack, improper work as 'instructional' are likely exposing yourselves to liability lawsuits in the future. i sincerely hope that for you.
Brian, I'm looking at getting a new roof and was thinking about a metal roof over shingles, because of the difficulty of removing shingles that are bonded to the 100% coverage of Ice & Water shield. Would probably require the entire tear off of shingles and plywood. Do you have any videos on your channel that show the proper technique and other considerations when considering put metal over asphalt shingles as well as other pitfalls. I'm always looking for good information.
You need an air gap for that radiant barrier to work, have you tried furring strips?
I would use Purlins.
My question is about attic ventilation. How is that handled either over existing shingles or after shingle removal? Do you still need the same amount of ventilation as you would with a shingle roof?
Yes, ventilation is a critical step no matter what roofing material you use. If the roof had proper ventilation before, say with ridge vents, then those would get incorporated in the new system. If you were having condensation issues or other problems caused by poor ventilation, a re-roof is your opportunity to get that fixed. I recommend consulting with a contractor who is knowledgeable in this area, as it can get complicated. Hope this helps! -Thad
It's fine going over shingles, just get panels with striations with galvalume finish without paint. I wouldn't scare people away from that unless the roof deck is completely rotting away as it could save a lot of time and money.
Metal over perlians
How do you prevent screws from backing out like I have seen many times when Roofers fix metal sheeting to ply?
Using 1x4 run a string line to find low spots in roof and use shims to correct elevations
What happens when you walk on that? I want to install a metal roof so I can install solar.
Or, you frame out? Why would you go straight to shingles. I've never seen that
We used to shim/tune purlins as needed, and even the clips if it were to cause a pucker and we used to tune our tile roofs this way as well. It was an option we offered that we could get extra for, based on what they saved from not having to strip/discard the old roof. I have an 8' x 1"x 2" aluminum extrusion I check the straightness if I see something moved excessively upon fastening as I go. Yes, it takes significantly longer than the blow & go ops we see these days, but well worth the effort because your jobs end up looking that much sweeter overall than the competitions.
I mean, even using torn pieces of roof felt for shims under the dips you do see is helpful, at least if it's on your own roof. Roof felt under the panel and clips sometimes is all that's needed. It's pretty cheap/thin metal and we will always end up paying somewhere to bring it up to snuff. I like having an air space between metal and deck anyway and ways for any condensation to gas off, or to avoid that anaerobic condition that can persist between sealed, direct layers otherwise. Anaerobic conditions minimally, can cause even the old triple dipped galvi roofing barbs to rot and cause things like iron rot in the decking/framing itself.
What is the best way to repair sheathing deflection?
Are there any differences between where are you are performing his videos and California installations
Isn't that the quarterback for the Cleveland Browns?
can we still put the panels and the insulation over curled shingles?
Great info, would love you to come do mine!!!
Love your channle. Wish I has a roof too 😕😒😫
I have seen here where houses that had metal roof put over shingles is that with the heat of summer the tar on the shigles melts and starts to run down the soffits on the house . . My sisters house has that problem and i don't want that for mine . Besides her installers cut off he exhaust vents for plumbing and air flow below the new metal roof . She has vaulted ceilings but i have an attic . I am up on a hill and winds are starting to blow off shingles and i think freezing temperatures are not helping . It is going to cost me 250 dollars to repair it for now since i have extra shingles . We are retired in our 70's so not something we could ever do . I am thinking metal but want more info on proper installation so i don't have the same issues my sister has . My house from front soffit to back soffit is 36 feet and end to end 100 feet long and is a ranch with vents in the roof and they are ony on the back . 4 of them plus exhaust vents for 4 bathrooms and kitchen . I want a roof that will last . house is a modular home built in 2004 as our retirement home
Very helpful. Thank you for posting
Is it hurricane proof?
Nothing is Hurricane Proof 😆 but what your looking for in Florida is a manufacturer product code your local building and permit office can help you with that
Using panels with no striations to demonstrate roofing over shingles, but using panels with striations to demonstrate install after a rip. Obviously a rip is technically better, but the labour and dumping costs involved in a rip may not be worth it to every customer. Should at least be showing a direct comparison.
A non striated panel is almost always going to oil can regardless of the decking
We never install over a shingle roof i always remove it.
Thanks for sharing! That is what we recommend as well! -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Don't you think strapping will resolve the deck uneven issues? Also, when the mechanical double lock being use on the panels, does the profile of the panel higher than single lock/snap lock? Thank you.
Jeff mentioned at the end of this video that installing over battens may not solve the oil canning issue. The reason is, you're not actually fixing the inherent problems with the deck. The battens are still being fastened down to the wavy decking material. To answer your second question, you can get multiple sizes/heights of mechanical seam and snaplock panels. For Adam's house, we used an 1.5" snaplock, but we could've easily used an 1.5" mechanical seam as well. Folding over the seam 90 degrees vs.180 degrees does not change the seam height. -Thad
Me to. I always remove shingles. Most roofers here don't.
A contractor quoted my roof and told me that they would not install standing seam metal over an existing shingle roof. He quoted a metal shingle (Kasselwood) because they a re better suited to be installed over a single layer of asphalt shingles
Yes, metal shingles are often installed directly over a layer of existing asphalt shingles. The oil canning problems that we mention in this video won't be nearly as noticeable with metal shingles because of the built-in structure in each panel. Also, each metal shingle is much smaller than a standing seam panel. However, leaving on an existing asphalt shingle roof still will not allow for the plywood decking to be replaced if needed. We did do a series with the manufacturer of KasselWood, Isaiah Industries. You can check that out here if you are interested: ua-cam.com/play/PLrMRkz6smMg0GYBWGMrnfnyS4cySMm2we.html -Thad
Show a demo of the striated panels.
Here's a video that discusses and shows striations in detail: bit.ly/panel-structure-video -Thad
What is a ballpark fair price for a 2000 sf roof. Getting bids all over the place.
It depends on a few factors, including what type of system you're going with. Check out this video for some real dollar figures for a few different options to help you compare: bit.ly/metal-roof-cost-price-video Hope this is helpful! -Thad
DIY 6 grand Im doing 1000 sq foot right now 3 grand , Labor and lumber has just went up 75% You're looking at 20 grand
Thank you
Awesome Video. It helps by reducing the errors in using 1x4 strips that may not be installed with the correct angles or spacing which would be more time consuming and you're at risk of installing it with a shoddy appearance. I would say the use of the padded underlayment will keep the roof in check longer than plywood alone, you may even get indentions anyway with plywood alone especially if a nail or screw starts to come out from heat or expansion. Who stays in a house longer than 40 years anyway?
I'm into my 3ed roof after 46 yrs 😳😆😅🤣
We've been in this house since 1980(44 yrs) and re-roofed it twice. 1st time was due to hail damage(orig roof was approx 16-17 y.o), house built in 67 and had a 2/12 pitch roof w/3 tab. 2nd roof(1st re-roof for us) was around 1983-84). 3 tabs. The 3rd roof (2nd for us) was around 2005-06, architectural shingles over all new plywood and Ice and water shield (recommended due to low 2/12 pitch. We just had our first roof water leak several months ago, thought it was fixed, but now it's back. Due to the fact that the shingles were put down directly on top of the Ice & Water shield and are now permanently bonded together a simple repair is out of the question probably. So we're looking at a new roof most likely, soon.
Will you travel to Missouri?
I have a metal house with a 30×50 garage and 40x40 barn. 20 years old (nails used by originalowners) and it needs all new roofing as I am seeing wood rot from water penitration.
Pleats will add extra strength and not show the planning that is present on a flat panel.
Panel structure does help reduce the appearance of oil canning, correct! -Thad