always wipe down with oil once finished to stop the bluing process to avoid deep corrosion, what also helps is heating up your metal with a hair dryer to open up the pores of the metal for a deeper blue.
When I blue firearms, I wear gloves and use acetone to de-grease the parts. I have found break cleaner leaves a film. And when applying the solution I use facial pads and apply the blue in even strokes so you don't get any runs on the metal.
I used super blue on my Rock Island Armory m 206, and was equally impressed with it. I also cleaned it with brake cleaner first, and applied it with a Q tip. If you wipe the gun down afterwards with a light coat of gun oil, it'll look even better. Amazing stuff.
Recommend pouring it into separate container using rubber gloves and spraying some type of penetrating oil on it when you are done to stop it from rusting
i have found that pouring the whole bottle in a glass sauce pot, warming the bluing liquid up (not hot) and just lay each item in it for a few minutes gives a super blue/black finish. Use caution, wear gloves and eye protection and gently pull the parts back out with a piece of wire and then dip them into very warm soapy water (dawn liquid) to dilute the salts immediately.
I'm glad this worked for you. I attempted with perma blue and 0 results on a stainless barrel on my 9mm and on my knife. 0 results by following the instructions.....
That came out quite nice. I used a similar product from Brownells called Oxpho-Blue to reblue an old Stevens single shot .22 rifle. I just used a small cotton rag cut from a tee shirt to apply it. It looks to be an identical product and it's surprisingly durable, too. My nephew used the rifle to hunt squirrels & grouse, and it still looks as good as it did when I reblued it. I'd only be concerned about holster wear with a pistol, but a quick touchup would take care of that. I'd love to see an update sometime & let us know how it holds up.
You are not supposed to touch the metal with bare hands once you have degreased it cleaned it, oil from your fingers will cause the blue to be blotchy and it will not even out...
Never use dish washing soap to clean the steel part as most will have lanolin and other chemicals for skin softening. Like others say never touch it with your bare hands at any time. Pour enough bluing out of the bottle to use at a time and do not return it so the bottle is not contaminated. Actually the best I ever got on a gun part was using browning on a black powder Kentucky pistol. The rife I blues as a kid is still in good shape today. Nice video of what you did and if you are happy with it since you did it then all is good.
Jon Brown I doubt if you can find any, however when I made that statement two months ago they were in abundance. It is amazing how quickly things can change.
Use a new sponge. It applies much better and evenly. It comes out blauchy with tips. But oddly, it ends up even and clean as you wipe it down light with Scotch Brite., between coats. Just beware, it takes several coats if you're down to bare metal!! It's actually a lot of wiping and cleaning between coats. It's still a lot of work. I respect guys who do this for a living. It's very tedious work.
Came out pretty decent for the first time. I would ware gloves both to protect your hand and to avoid adding finger grease/sweat to the barrel, but it looks good.
loop a wire hanger through the barrel without touching the surface than dip it in the blue so it will have a even coat, sand if necessary, then redo the process until you get the look you want.🤔
i know its old video and ill bet some1 else has already told but still tell that ya should pour that liquid another container that much what will need and were ya dip ur applicator, it can ruin whole liquid if ya use it straight on bottle and should use gloves to avoid fingerprints etc, but good video, i have plans to blue my winchester 1300.
I have found that the streaking can be completely avoided by dissolving the gun blue in water to make a bath. That allows you to completely submerge the part in the solution, and makes the process slower and more controllable. For a part this large though, you really want to is something other than cold blue. Rust blue is pretty easy and safe to do.
@Hewhoremains420 Yes it does work with cold blue. I dont have a specific formula for how much to add to the water bath. Add about as much as you would expect to use if you were applying it directly to the metal - diluting it with water just makes it turn out more even. The reason I wouldn't want to use cold blue on a large part is because it's not real bluing, and is only really intended for touch-ups. It has almost no resistance to wear.
Pour some into a small cup, because you'll ruin the remainder of the bottle by dipping back into the bottle, use cotton balls. And polish it with xxx or xxxx steel wool, itll come out alot better.
I am surprised you got such a nice blue job after you touched everything with your hands!! You always wear gloves and never touch a metal gun part you are going to blue with your bare hands and fingers! GEEZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The blotchy stuff you had was due to touching it with your bare hands!! After cleaning what you are about to blue use Acetone to remove anything that might interfere with the bluing! Acetone leaves no residue and dries so fast you don't have to wipe it down after use! And the best way to apply this bluing would be to fill a canister up with the bluing solution, Requires a lot of Super Blue, and dipping it in the solution, and letting it sit for about 30 seconds and then rinsing it in hot water. If you only had the small bottle of Super Blue You could wear gloves and put a lot on a paper towel and rub it on the part really quickly and then sit for 30 seconds and rinse in HOT Water. One last note about bluing. If you want a really shinny part, polish it to a mirror finish before bluing!!
If you clean the surface of whatever your bluing wear gloves because the oils from your hands will get on the gun and cause the blue not to take as good , it turned out pretty cool
Advice for bluing, wear gloves. The oil on your fingers will fuck up the finish. Use a paint brush or large cotton applicator. Not small que tips unless getting in tight spaces. When you're finished wash it with soap and water so it doesn't turn into a pile of rust.
I'm not being judgmental, cause you did a good job. I would just pour a little Super-Blue in a bottle cap to keep from contaminating the whole bottle from dipping the swab from the bottle to the barrel & back again.
Pour the liquid into a small plastic container so you don't contaminate the rest of the liquid, Ppe is very important when using any chemical, degrease with acetone and try brushing on evenly in one direction.
1) Name the Cat Buddy! 2) clean the part with isopropyl alcohol, wear neoprene gloves, warm part with heat gun, then apply. Wipe down, rinse in cold water, buff it down with a cotton white tee shirt. And repeat.
Use 000 steel wool. Yours looked a bit course for what your doing. Get a steel wool with the most amount of "0"s on the package. I clean some of my spent brass when reloading if I have powder burns on my brass. 000 works great.
I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?
Use rubber gloves, if you've touched the barrel bare handed it’s no longer clean, and never dip a swap or brush into the container, pour into a small dish then get rid of the remainder.
You don't want to touch the barrel with your bare hands after cleaning you could get uneven bluing from the oil in your fingers and dipping a q-tip in the bottle will contaminate the bluing solution making it go bad quicker.
Wooden dowel shaped to fit a section of the barrel to hold the barrel would be better for a handgun, for a longer gun a dowel in the chamber with a string through it and out the barrel to hang it up will help
I would think a cotton ball would work better for a applicator & also handle it with gloves as to not get oil from your bare hands. But even so it did work out ok. The only thing about that Cold blue, it wears off easily. But you can touch it up easy. It just not a long lasting finish as Hot blue.
You should never dip the Q-tip into the bottle. It will ruin the remainder of your solution. Always use a separate bowl or container.
always wipe down with oil once finished to stop the bluing process to avoid deep corrosion, what also helps is heating up your metal with a hair dryer to open up the pores of the metal for a deeper blue.
When I blue firearms, I wear gloves and use acetone to de-grease the parts. I have found break cleaner leaves a film. And when applying the solution I use facial pads and apply the blue in even strokes so you don't get any runs on the metal.
The only thing I would add is it’s best to use a separate container. If you repeatedly dip a swab back into the original bottle you ruin the solution.
@@Wormuloid4157 agree
They used no gloves and no glasses---then they put the poor cat in danger being so close to what's going on !
I used super blue on my Rock Island Armory m 206, and was equally impressed with it. I also cleaned it with brake cleaner first, and applied it with a Q tip. If you wipe the gun down afterwards with a light coat of gun oil, it'll look even better. Amazing stuff.
Did u wire wheel it first?
@@korkser No
Came for the bluing stayed for the cat
Brooo🤣🤣
Name the cat "Blue" 😹
I said same
Recommend pouring it into separate container using rubber gloves and spraying some type of penetrating oil on it when you are done to stop it from rusting
i have found that pouring the whole bottle in a glass sauce pot, warming the bluing liquid up (not hot) and just lay each item in it for a few minutes gives a super blue/black finish. Use caution, wear gloves and eye protection and gently pull the parts back out with a piece of wire and then dip them into very warm soapy water (dawn liquid) to dilute the salts immediately.
What does diluting the salts do
I'm glad this worked for you. I attempted with perma blue and 0 results on a stainless barrel on my 9mm and on my knife. 0 results by following the instructions.....
Check the video at 0.48 seconds, clearly says on the side of the bottle that it does not work on stainless steel.
the cat should be named Dammit. That is what you are going to be saying when it walks through your bench and turns your stuff over
HA HA HA!
That came out quite nice. I used a similar product from Brownells called Oxpho-Blue to reblue an old Stevens single shot .22 rifle. I just used a small cotton rag cut from a tee shirt to apply it. It looks to be an identical product and it's surprisingly durable, too. My nephew used the rifle to hunt squirrels & grouse, and it still looks as good as it did when I reblued it. I'd only be concerned about holster wear with a pistol, but a quick touchup would take care of that.
I'd love to see an update sometime & let us know how it holds up.
You are not supposed to touch the metal with bare hands once you have degreased it cleaned it, oil from your fingers will cause the blue to be blotchy and it will not even out...
Thanks for sharing!
Exactly. 1st thing i thought was should be using gloves. But did a decent job
I like the uneven blue steal better
In which state are you in America, O Benjamin
@@BenjaminSahlstrom hey Benjamin, will the birchwood aluminum black work on the pt111 g2 taurus stainless steel slide????
1:27 "this stuff is highly corrosive"
*Cat walking around there*
Me, here behind the screen : THE CATT.....THE CATTT.....THHHEEE CAAATTTTT !!!
Haha exactly!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Not a haha situation.
CATS are STUPID
Never use dish washing soap to clean the steel part as most will have lanolin and other chemicals for skin softening. Like others say never touch it with your bare hands at any time. Pour enough bluing out of the bottle to use at a time and do not return it so the bottle is not contaminated. Actually the best I ever got on a gun part was using browning on a black powder Kentucky pistol. The rife I blues as a kid is still in good shape today. Nice video of what you did and if you are happy with it since you did it then all is good.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Love hearing from people with experience.
Have more CAT videos, I love the Cat❤️❤️❤️!!!
I gave you a thumbs up only because I like the cat .
I never knew someone has a garage like mine!
Geez what a boss! I look up electrical videos and Benjamin is my favorite. I look up bluing techniques and Benjamin pops up. Yup, I'll watch that one.
The cute cat was telling you to wear cheap surgical gloves. 10 for a dollar at the Dollar Store
Have you tried to buy "cheap surgical gloves lately"?
Jon Brown I doubt if you can find any, however when I made that statement two months ago they were in abundance. It is amazing how quickly things can change.
use a less coarse steel wool and buff "lightly", it won't take as much blue back off
love all the different stuff you put on your channel. The small furry sidekick looks like a Frodo Baggins to me.
I love the cat. I’m liking the video because of the cat.
Glad i found this video im buying a stainless steel revolver and want to blue it the coating on the black version is really bad
Bluing does not work on stainless steel.
That's how a workshop should look. Nice and used.
Use a new sponge. It applies much better and evenly. It comes out blauchy with tips. But oddly, it ends up even and clean as you wipe it down light with Scotch Brite., between coats. Just beware, it takes several coats if you're down to bare metal!! It's actually a lot of wiping and cleaning between coats. It's still a lot of work. I respect guys who do this for a living. It's very tedious work.
Came out pretty decent for the first time. I would ware gloves both to protect your hand and to avoid adding finger grease/sweat to the barrel, but it looks good.
name the cat Harley
Espectacular como quedó el trabajo! Gracias pormostrlo y por mostrar a tu mascota! Ja! Es hermoso! Un gran saludo y abrazo desde ARGENTINA!
Every time you touch the slide with your naked hands, you're putting grease and sweat on it.
Well, no shit.
My thumbs up for the cat. I shall call her Spaghetti Joe.
Really clean work area.
loop a wire hanger through the barrel without touching the surface than dip it in the blue so it will have a even coat, sand if necessary, then redo the process until you get the look you want.🤔
the cat looks like a real sweetie.. dont hurt the lil katty.. its hard to find a good cat..
i know its old video and ill bet some1 else has already told but still tell that ya should pour that liquid another container that much what will need and were ya dip ur applicator, it can ruin whole liquid if ya use it straight on bottle and should use gloves to avoid fingerprints etc, but good video, i have plans to blue my winchester 1300.
I have found that the streaking can be completely avoided by dissolving the gun blue in water to make a bath.
That allows you to completely submerge the part in the solution, and makes the process slower and more controllable.
For a part this large though, you really want to is something other than cold blue. Rust blue is pretty easy and safe to do.
@Hewhoremains420 Yes it does work with cold blue. I dont have a specific formula for how much to add to the water bath. Add about as much as you would expect to use if you were applying it directly to the metal - diluting it with water just makes it turn out more even.
The reason I wouldn't want to use cold blue on a large part is because it's not real bluing, and is only really intended for touch-ups. It has almost no resistance to wear.
When you're finished blueing, cover with oil and let it cure for 24 hours.
Late to the show, but hreat presentation...good lighting and explanation of your steps!
Thanks!
Pour some into a small cup, because you'll ruin the remainder of the bottle by dipping back into the bottle, use cotton balls. And polish it with xxx or xxxx steel wool, itll come out alot better.
I am surprised you got such a nice blue job after you touched everything with your hands!! You always wear gloves and never touch a metal gun part you are going to blue with your bare hands and fingers! GEEZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The blotchy stuff you had was due to touching it with your bare hands!! After cleaning what you are about to blue use Acetone to remove anything that might interfere with the bluing! Acetone leaves no residue and dries so fast you don't have to wipe it down after use! And the best way to apply this bluing would be to fill a canister up with the bluing solution, Requires a lot of Super Blue, and dipping it in the solution, and letting it sit for about 30 seconds and then rinsing it in hot water. If you only had the small bottle of Super Blue You could wear gloves and put a lot on a paper towel and rub it on the part really quickly and then sit for 30 seconds and rinse in HOT Water. One last note about bluing. If you want a really shinny part, polish it to a mirror finish before bluing!!
Thanxs brother.You just gave me an idea for my next bmx build.Blueing the whole frame.
Nice video, thanks!!!!
The cat is adorable
If you clean the surface of whatever your bluing wear gloves because the oils from your hands will get on the gun and cause the blue not to take as good , it turned out pretty cool
Advice for bluing, wear gloves. The oil on your fingers will fuck up the finish. Use a paint brush or large cotton applicator. Not small que tips unless getting in tight spaces. When you're finished wash it with soap and water so it doesn't turn into a pile of rust.
That looks awesome
Wear gloves !! Oils on your hands will cause the blochiness.
Couple coats look better. Heat metal up with heat gun before applying super blue. It helps absorb the blue. More coats darker it gets.
The cat is what makes the video. 👍🏼
I'm not being judgmental, cause you did a good job. I would just pour a little Super-Blue in a bottle cap to keep from contaminating the whole bottle from dipping the swab from the bottle to the barrel & back again.
I wish more guns today used a blued finish. Very beautiful finish on a gun
Pour the liquid into a small plastic container so you don't contaminate the rest of the liquid, Ppe is very important when using any chemical, degrease with acetone and try brushing on evenly in one direction.
1) Name the Cat Buddy!
2) clean the part with isopropyl alcohol, wear neoprene gloves, warm part with heat gun, then apply. Wipe down, rinse in cold water, buff it down with a cotton white tee shirt. And repeat.
Use 000 steel wool. Yours looked a bit course for what your doing. Get a steel wool with the most amount of "0"s on the package. I clean some of my spent brass when reloading if I have powder burns on my brass. 000 works great.
A mini foam brush maybe a a better applicator. That turned out good
What curious cat !!! 😂😂😂😂😂
I am liking BECAUSE of the cat!
Cleaned it really good and the handles it with his hands….. Rubber gloves advised to keep oil off and protect hands from solution.
☠️Danger:Poison 🙀
Awesome cat!
Love the cat.
I thought the cat was going to paw at the blue metal lol
Good job and the cat is awesome
that stel punch is real good on the chamber and rifling lead-in. Gonna damage it.
He probably didn't need the rifling anyways
Love your Cat !!!
Socks,would be a good name for the cat,😊
Looks great. Thanks for the video! Was thinking of doing it myself.
I like the video because of the cat!
Name the cat Blue! He helped you reblue your barrel
I watched another UA-cam video about this process and the guy describe the smell to a dirty pair of socks. Lol
Hahaha... the cat! Very nice video Ben! You do a great job!
For your pretty cat name will be Tom Cat😂
I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?
Rinse with cold water then oil for over night. Stops the bluing process.
the cat is the star of the movie! name it "snoopy" :)
Let’s name the cat “shitty” for shop kitty.
Wait...
I think Sir Walter is actually a better name guys, who agrees?
Or Shat, for shop cat.😂😂
And the cat died from toxic fumes😂
Yeah, cats really can get into stuff that they shouldn't. :)
BLUE! CAT NAME!
Perfect what not to do video
so far i will be more careful than i first thought👍🏼
Use rubber gloves, if you've touched the barrel bare handed it’s no longer clean, and never dip a swap or brush into the container, pour into a small dish then get rid of the remainder.
You don't want to touch the barrel with your bare hands after cleaning you could get uneven bluing from the oil in your fingers and dipping a q-tip in the bottle will contaminate the bluing solution making it go bad quicker.
Gloves Baby, Gloves!
Curiosity killed the cat, but for a brief moment I was the primary suspect. - Steven Wright
The cat was like super-glue dont cut it anymore i want me some of dat super-blue
Wow, nice, might try this on one of my guns :)
the cat was the star
Name the cat either
1) MOVE; or
2) GET DOWN
Best thing to use when blueing is scotch brute and lacquer thinner to clean before rusting
Can you paint over old bluing instead of removing it all and and re doing it?
Call The Cat Buckmark 😀👍🏼
You've got a good eye!
Nice, I have a buckmark I’m doing with oxpho blue,
Wooden dowel shaped to fit a section of the barrel to hold the barrel would be better for a handgun, for a longer gun a dowel in the chamber with a string through it and out the barrel to hang it up will help
Cool cat...... just name him. “Blue”
Cats name is fuzz nuts always in the way lol
After bluing warm it in very hot water allow it to air dry and while still hot coat it in gun oil
Nice finish BUT Never touch it after degreasing with you hands the amino acid wi act as a barrier and freeze the bluing
I would think a cotton ball would work better for a applicator & also handle it with gloves as
to not get oil from your bare hands. But even so it did work out ok. The only thing about that
Cold blue, it wears off easily. But you can touch it up easy. It just not a long lasting finish as
Hot blue.
Will it work in a non-mirror polished stainless pistol barrel made from heat treated 416 Stainless Steel?
Cold bluing is not recommended for stainless steel
Will not work properly. Blotchy finish that becomes streaked over time. Do NOT use this product on any stainless part.
name the cat "Bluey" 🙂
That’s pretty cool and wondered it that stuff was worth it…..Name the cat blue
Name the cat "BLUE".
What happens if you don’t clean with water?