I had the same story as you Mentor, every system as was at had something wrong with it, I kept calling my manager over and over at what felt like every call.. just regular maintenance checks on systems months to a year old! I was wondering what the heck was wrong, then I realized that my low side gauge was "zeroing" at 10psi off of zero. Never doing that again.
One of a few reasons I learned to not leave any charge in my hoses or in the guage set is the storage in the van. Van can get pretty hot in the summer over a lunch hour. A long time ago someone told me an old set of hoses can become weak and burst with rise in temperature. Not sure if there's any examples of that but I also recalibrate before connecting the guages. I use Testo 557 digital set and sometimes check 3-4 different refrigerant types a day. Never thought high pressures helped the guage set over extended periods either.
I use Testo smart probes but when I did use hoses I would hold the R-22 in the hose because I didn't want to steal refrigerant. I can see that the pressures could have been off so it makes sense to release the refrigerant when not in use to calibrate gauges. Now that I have Testo smart probes I don't have to worry about it and they calibrate through app. Thanks for the clip.
Thank you ! you have always added to my worth as a technician. But I have only been at it for 30 years and technology advances faster than we (remember to eat right ) and remember that continuing education will not only keep you current, educated and employed,You will be an example of the professional in our field which is what we should all project.
I was taught in the beginning of my career in 1990 to use a quick connect on the high side hose always bled air from hoses when putting them on a system take the high side off first then bled it back into the low side and zero out the gages before and after every use but I was working with multiple different refrigerants r12 22 502 once in a while r500 then 134 came out shortly after I think it’s ok to take a tiny bit of refrigerant out and not take the chance of cross contamination or having oil and refrigerant leaking all over the truck when it’s hot out
Congrats! I'm watching all your vids till the very end. That means you're awesome, cuz i have adhd and I'm not even a tech. I'm just trying to fix my blower motor issue since Maintenance wont come till Monday,even though these videos dont have anything to do with my problem. Good stuff!
1st time seeing your lessons and it is very interesting have been doing hvac now for for a few years and I am license in Texas. I am trying to find a solution on a problem that i am having after a 5 month new in stall on a 3.5 ton Goodman complete change out 410A refrigerant . Problem: Suction pressure is high, low amps on the compressor and indoor cooling is not there . System has a TXV and i did remove the piston but the sensing bulb is still inside the box also the compressor is sweating what is causing this problem? Thanks
I still do it the same way my dad taught me as a child for before high school. Even though at that time it was only our 12 and R 22 and a few 500 series gases. Bleed it out fill your gauges and hoses with dry nitrogen or storage between jobs. You would zero out at the beginning of every job when we used to use analog gauges. Always had multiple sets of gauges always had 99% alcohol and nitrogen to clean out gauges when needed. Always have an always used a refrigerant analyzer to identify what type of refrigerant was in the system since the early 1990s no possibility of cross-contamination of refrigerant. Always had one high dollar1% accurate analog gauges as a reference back in the shop that never left its mounting plates on the wall as a zeroing in calibration gauge through the pressure ranges with dry nitrogen A to B comparison. Never grew up or trained or mentored under somebody with bad habit from childhood so I never knew what short cuts were and I teach the same way.
What refrigerant analyzer does one keep on the van that can literally without fault; determine the difference between refrigerants? I'll wait for a part number for a tool that doesn't cost a small fortune...
@@jakem117 I have 3 identifiers Two I keep in my vehicle one for back up in case the battery goes dead in one or breaks down The third one stays back at my shop where are my refrigerant recycling machines are located. I recycle R12. R134, R22. I own the machines for purifying and recycling refrigerant I have been doing it since 1992. My current refrigerant analyzers are all manufactured by Neutronics Model ultima ID PRO Model Legend series Model ( older version legend series no longer in production cannot get service anymore) My previous refrigerant analyzers were manufactured by BACHARACH Back in the days when I was called Yokogawa in the early 90’s And no you do not get cheap in expensive ones that are good you’ll be spending 3000 to almost $5000 on each one depending on which model and what gases you want to analyze. I busted so many contractors ripping off customers who told the customer they sold them R22 but really they just dropped in a replacement refrigerant blend and some even dropped in R410. I gave the customer a print out of my reading and tell them to go get all their money back for the repairs and for lying to them and stealing money return them in for theft. And I get a customer for life I’ve posted some videos of me using my refrigerant analyzer
Care to share some model numbers? I usually use pressure and temperature measurements with the system off for ten minutes and allow the systems temperature to stabilize then determine the type with saturation temp/pressure relationship. Doesn't tell you about moisture or other things I guess.
@@jakem117 here’s the link refrigerantid.com/products/hvacr-identifiers/ IR -700 H. If you do commercial and refrigeration www.centurytool.net/mobile/Product.aspx?id=63346 Legend ID if you do automotive Turn it off the system when your outdoor unit is sitting outside in 90° in compressor was just running so even after 10 minutes you can pass you still 130° plus Your indoor coil I’ll be sitting in the 80° so pressure temperature accuracy is definitely not going to happen Same situation if condensers outside sitting off in 80° but the line said it’s run up through the attic to an airhead and alert that sitting in 120° it doesn’t matter how long you let it sit it won’t be accurate Or if you’re in a location where they bury the line sets between the condenser and air handler in the line set is 50 feet underground at 58° and the condenser and air handler for sitting in 80 or 90° The only true way is you take the refrigerant sample into one of your own refrigerant recovery tanks let it sit at home overnight in a temperature controlled room at about 70° and then take your pressure now you can be considered accurate And you can still have any number of low pressure refrigerant added to Your refrigerant and you would never know because it would not show Same goes for doing a nitrogen pressure decay test. Using temperature and pressure correction factor. When I am installing a 20 to 60 ton LG VRF system I have condenser on roof in the sun ☀️ directly hitting the coils my gauges and copper Pipe temperature sensors connected 80°F 1500 feet, pipe down in the building anywhere from 8 to 60+ air handler’s that are all sitting in the temperature of 68 to 70° When you do your pressure temperature compensation to find out if you have a leak you will fail every time. Even though you have no leak I did a video on the subject showing using one of my installation in a real life example. Not theory Science that only work in a temperature controlled laboratory or on paper when we were taking thermal dynamics and fluid dynamics College.
I had the same story as you Mentor, every system as was at had something wrong with it, I kept calling my manager over and over at what felt like every call.. just regular maintenance checks on systems months to a year old! I was wondering what the heck was wrong, then I realized that my low side gauge was "zeroing" at 10psi off of zero. Never doing that again.
One of a few reasons I learned to not leave any charge in my hoses or in the guage set is the storage in the van. Van can get pretty hot in the summer over a lunch hour. A long time ago someone told me an old set of hoses can become weak and burst with rise in temperature. Not sure if there's any examples of that but I also recalibrate before connecting the guages. I use Testo 557 digital set and sometimes check 3-4 different refrigerant types a day. Never thought high pressures helped the guage set over extended periods either.
I use Testo smart probes but when I did use hoses I would hold the R-22 in the hose because I didn't want to steal refrigerant. I can see that the pressures could have been off so it makes sense to release the refrigerant when not in use to calibrate gauges. Now that I have Testo smart probes I don't have to worry about it and they calibrate through app. Thanks for the clip.
Thank you ! you have always added to my worth as a technician. But I have only been at it for 30 years and technology advances faster than we (remember to eat right ) and remember that continuing education will not only keep you current, educated and employed,You will be an example of the professional in our field which is what we should all project.
I was taught in the beginning of my career in 1990 to use a quick connect on the high side hose always bled air from hoses when putting them on a system take the high side off first then bled it back into the low side and zero out the gages before and after every use but I was working with multiple different refrigerants r12 22 502 once in a while r500 then 134 came out shortly after I think it’s ok to take a tiny bit of refrigerant out and not take the chance of cross contamination or having oil and refrigerant leaking all over the truck when it’s hot out
Congrats! I'm watching all your vids till the very end. That means you're awesome, cuz i have adhd and I'm not even a tech. I'm just trying to fix my blower motor issue since Maintenance wont come till Monday,even though these videos dont have anything to do with my problem. Good stuff!
great information thanks
I put it back in the unit
Wouldn’t the refrigerants mix if you checked an r22 system the hook up to r410a?
1st time seeing your lessons and it is very interesting have been doing hvac now for for a few years and I am license in Texas. I am trying to find a solution on a problem that i am having after a 5 month new in stall on a 3.5 ton Goodman complete change out 410A refrigerant . Problem: Suction pressure is high, low amps on the compressor and indoor cooling is not there . System has a TXV and i did remove the piston but the sensing bulb is still inside the box also the compressor is sweating what is causing this problem? Thanks
Wow. Someone needs to invent something better, than. So instead, they just make them more complex.
I still do it the same way my dad taught me as a child for before high school. Even though at that time it was only our 12 and R 22 and a few 500 series gases.
Bleed it out fill your gauges and hoses with dry nitrogen or storage between jobs.
You would zero out at the beginning of every job when we used to use analog gauges.
Always had multiple sets of gauges always had 99% alcohol and nitrogen to clean out gauges when needed.
Always have an always used a refrigerant analyzer to identify what type of refrigerant was in the system since the early 1990s no possibility of cross-contamination of refrigerant.
Always had one high dollar1% accurate analog gauges as a reference back in the shop that never left its mounting plates on the wall as a zeroing in calibration gauge through the pressure ranges with dry nitrogen A to B comparison.
Never grew up or trained or mentored under somebody with bad habit from childhood so I never knew what short cuts were and I teach the same way.
What refrigerant analyzer does one keep on the van that can literally without fault; determine the difference between refrigerants?
I'll wait for a part number for a tool that doesn't cost a small fortune...
@@jakem117 I have 3 identifiers
Two I keep in my vehicle one for back up in case the battery goes dead in one or breaks down
The third one stays back at my shop where are my refrigerant recycling machines are located.
I recycle R12. R134, R22. I own the machines for purifying and recycling refrigerant I have been doing it since 1992.
My current refrigerant analyzers are all manufactured by Neutronics
Model ultima ID PRO
Model Legend series
Model ( older version legend series no longer in production cannot get service anymore)
My previous refrigerant analyzers were manufactured by BACHARACH Back in the days when I was called Yokogawa in the early 90’s
And no you do not get cheap in expensive ones that are good you’ll be spending 3000 to almost $5000 on each one depending on which model and what gases you want to analyze.
I busted so many contractors ripping off customers who told the customer they sold them R22 but really they just dropped in a replacement refrigerant blend and some even dropped in R410.
I gave the customer a print out of my reading and tell them to go get all their money back for the repairs and for lying to them and stealing money return them in for theft.
And I get a customer for life
I’ve posted some videos of me using my refrigerant analyzer
Care to share some model numbers?
I usually use pressure and temperature measurements with the system off for ten minutes and allow the systems temperature to stabilize then determine the type with saturation temp/pressure relationship. Doesn't tell you about moisture or other things I guess.
@@jakem117 here’s the link
refrigerantid.com/products/hvacr-identifiers/
IR -700 H. If you do commercial and refrigeration
www.centurytool.net/mobile/Product.aspx?id=63346
Legend ID if you do automotive
Turn it off the system when your outdoor unit is sitting outside in 90° in compressor was just running so even after 10 minutes you can pass you still 130° plus
Your indoor coil I’ll be sitting in the 80° so pressure temperature accuracy is definitely not going to happen
Same situation if condensers outside sitting off in 80° but the line said it’s run up through the attic to an airhead and alert that sitting in 120° it doesn’t matter how long you let it sit it won’t be accurate
Or if you’re in a location where they bury the line sets between the condenser and air handler in the line set is 50 feet underground at 58° and the condenser and air handler for sitting in 80 or 90°
The only true way is you take the refrigerant sample into one of your own refrigerant recovery tanks let it sit at home overnight in a temperature controlled room at about 70° and then take your pressure now you can be considered accurate
And you can still have any number of low pressure refrigerant added to Your refrigerant and you would never know because it would not show
Same goes for doing a nitrogen pressure decay test. Using temperature and pressure correction factor.
When I am installing a 20 to 60 ton LG VRF system I have condenser on roof in the sun ☀️ directly hitting the coils my gauges and copper Pipe temperature sensors connected 80°F
1500 feet, pipe down in the building anywhere from 8 to 60+ air handler’s that are all sitting in the temperature of 68 to 70°
When you do your pressure temperature compensation to find out if you have a leak you will fail every time. Even though you have no leak
I did a video on the subject showing using one of my installation in a real life example.
Not theory Science that only work in a temperature controlled laboratory or on paper when we were taking thermal dynamics and fluid dynamics College.