Yeah after seeing the tear down. These cars are wltoys 2.0. 9000 screws later I'm good never again. If I want cheap and badass hbx. I've got one that's four years old, never greased a thing, never tore it apart, always driven hard, skate parks, job sites, the beach, hunting, you name it and I send it like I hate it. I do believe it was you that told me to check them out and I'm still not disappointed. Thanks brother.
HBX does do well on the budget end. These are a bit annoying to take apart but fortunately the differential seem pretty strong so I don't think you'd have to take them apart too often.
Unsurprising, another fantastic review! I have always liked Hobao RC cars, I had a couple of nitro buggies and a nitro truggy, they were always super durable.
Love these truggies. Disappointed to see how much work is involved just to get the diffs out. Surely they could have made that easier - they’ve had a decade or more since the first version, plenty of time to improve the design. Great video mate 💪🤘
They definitely could have made it easier but it would have required completely redesigning that part of the car which I guess they didn't want to do. Fortunately It seems like the differentials are pretty strong so you probably won't be digging in there too often.
I'm usually not interested in a rc until you tear it down and give a pre analysis on what may ot may not go wrong. Imma add this one to my "to buy eventually" list Excellent teardown bro
For the price it's a pretty cool car. It's relatively well built and has some nice detail that makes it fun to look at and fun to work on. Definitely worth getting.
Absolutely epic vid! This truck looks insane and as usual a tank just like all the other Hobao cars out there. I have been a fan of Hobao for years and its a real shame they dont get the credit they deserve. I love my SSTE and would pick that over any Traxxas or Arrma anyday! Will have to get one of these soon!
That is always my favorite way to work when I find something missing and have to take it back apart I love double work 😄😄 That was a good catch on the motor that was insanely loose
Yeah you would think after 20 years in the hobby I wouldn't do that sort of thing but especially when I'm recording it happens more frequently than I would like.
The design of the wheel nuts is exactly correct. I had nyloc flanged nuts with smooth bottoms on my HPI RS4 Mini back in the late ’90s and never had a wheel fall off. The other option is to use serrated nuts without nyloc. I only use those now and I lube the threads. Never had one fall off, either. The reason why you want one or the other - not both - is that there’s an ever so slight amount of movement between the axle and pin, pin and hex, and hex and wheel. When the nyloc nut is secured to the axle threads, you want to allow the wheel to rotate that tiny amount on the axle without moving the nut. Hence the smooth surface. And when the serrations lock the nut to the wheel, you want to allow the nut to rotate along with the wheel so the bond doesn’t break. So we don’t want thread lock or nyloc there. Grease is preferable.
Maybe though the vast majority of 1/10 scale and smaller vehicles these days including everything from Traxxas and Arrma use both nylock and serrations.
I think Traxxas and Arrma might be catering to consumers who believe you need both. And I guess it works well enough so there’s no harm. Ideally, you should only need one or the other. My Kyosho Turbo Scorpion came with nyloc wheel nuts with smooth bottoms. Kyosho, HPI, and HoBao at least used to be racing brands (Ofna has a worlds title under its belt) so I find it hard to believe it’s a coincidence they chose this exact type of fastener. Modern 1/10 racing trucks and buggies use serrated low-profile nuts exclusively: Team Associated, TLR, Xray, Schumacher, Yokomo… Also the RTR vehicles from AE use serrated nuts without nyloc. It could be that racing vehicles see so much removing the wheels and putting them on again that nyloc would start losing its grip in that application. Also since the vehicle width is regulated the low profile nuts help get maximum track width. As long as our wheels don’t fall off we’re happy racing or bashing or whatever it is that you like.
Best thing about Hobao are their diffs. The tt and 10SC use sized 1/8 diffs. You can apply 6s power and the drive train can handle it. With this update seems like the suspension is better suited for modern abuse. I wonder if they’ll make an update to the 10SC as well.
They might have been oversized 10 years ago but these days I'd say they're just adequate. Most 110 scale vehicles are using larger differentials than what you see in here.
I little bit expensive but well worth it. I have a Vs buggy its freakin amazing. Im getting that 2.0 next. They have absolutely erned my business! Well built quality parts cars and trucks! Hobao is a great brand!
@@DoRC _😅Naaah... most who have the groms are either running them completely OEM or modding them to the moon like you would do, then get bored with it and want something that can exhibit similar extreme performance but in a bigger form. That is difficult to achieve as you step up in scale! As nimble as this one is.. I think this is probably a great option! I am also amazed by how durable it is!_
Hobao make some of the best RCs you can get.!! 👍 👍 👍 I've got 6 of them & I love each one of them.! Their 1/8 scale rigs are especially good.! I always get their 80% ARTR Rolling chassis versions. I've yet to blow a differential on any of them, my oldest one is over 5 years old (GTS), I've ran it hard & often on 6S & it's still about 95% original.! Get yourself a Hobao, you won't regret it.!
Yeah they definitely seem to make a good quality product. Some of their parts seem like they should be undersized but are extremely durable. I think it's all about the materials quality
Loved the footage on the stock configuration running! This thing floated through those bumps! Cool tough rig! Imagine the results on doubling the power on the new Losi... 😁
I was messing around last week with spare parts and ended up with a wide kit granite , 17mm hexes not extenders and 4s backflips . No rubbing , it’s fun for jumps but can tip over like before the wide kit with the 1” taller tires . The chassis just can bottom out , barely but it does . It’s a lot of fun so far . I ll switch back to the original tires when something goes or if it’s getting too hot .
Hybrid caps on bladder type shocks are smart because you can set the polymer eyelet in place and then screw on the aluminium collar without trapping air under the cap. Single-piece caps annoy me to no end on bladder type shocks. I vividly imagine all that air trapped under the cap as I’m screwing it down and I don’t sleep well after that. They are the only way to go on emulsion shocks, but then we have bleed screws and happy thoughts.
Yeah there's always going to be a little bit of air in there though most bladder type shock caps will have a little hole in the side just below where the bladder itself sits so most trapped air can get out.
Nice been watching this truck for some time now. I would suggest looking into oil and geometry setups for 1/10 4wd truggys though, on a grass track like your terain guys only use for example 7-10-3k setup in much heavier 1/8 buggys. Than you can unlock its full potential handeling wise with the stock tires for sure, unless your just gonna send it hahaha than id go for 1milion too for propper backflips
Yeah if you're using it for racing or something like that I'm sure the setup can be improved. I'm just a basher though so for me thicker center differential fluid and off she goes :-)
Yeah given that the platform definitely seems like it can handle more power and the stock system isn't exactly a powerhouse That would probably be the way to go
Wow! The 2.0 looks great, some really nice stuff on the chassis. I really like the closed gearboxes, how many times have you taken a gearbox off an Arrma and found a bunch of dirt and debris on the gears? I have to say, out of the box, meh. But with the power upgrade, oh yeah!! For me, this might just be the ultimate 1/10 truggy. I would throw a HW 3660/3665 combo, say 3200kv, 3s, better track worthy tires.. oh man!! I'm not a ramp guy, I like track running, which this thing looks perfect for! Great job on the video as always brother!!👌🍻
@DoRC Looks like a real winner from the initial looks of it doesn't it? I'm definitely impressed with it before getting one hands on. Especially at that price.
Fortunately lately most RTR is that I've gotten have been fine. This is the first one I've found in a while that was literally falling apart out of the box. It is always good to give them a once-over though
I’d recommend moving the esc regardless. Having the esc and motor so close together like that is horrible for thermals. I’ve overheated both vxl escs and hobbywing max10 sct escs when stacked in the default configuration this and traxxas like to use. However moving the esc a bit further away by mounting it on the receiver box area with the slash/rustler 4x4 brings the temps down on both dramatically.
Yeah I was surprised at how well it held up. Honestly I fully expected to break it. These modern cars are getting tough enough that I might need to build a bigger ramp soon :-)
I love what I see, nice video. We have an ARR headed our way soon. It will be destined for the racetrack. Likely going to use a Tekin Pro2 motor that i believe is similar size to the castle you put in there... what KV is that motor and what gearing did you use? I'm trying to decide what pinion to order and what other bits besides wheels that we might want. It will be raced, so 2S lipo, and likely 5100kv motor, they do make a 5800kv as well though, so we might just send it to the moon... Thanks again for the video, amd input u have would be most appreciated. Cheers.
This was a 3200 KV motor and I went stock with the pinion so 13 tooth. Seemed pretty good on 4s. The stock motor is 3,900KV and runs on 3S which also feels pretty appropriately geared.
You can get rollers here for £189 and I’ve been seriously considering one, I’ve got two spare 4S esc and three 3s motors laying spare. Reminds me a lot of my Vorteks but way cheaper to build without the metal diff costs etc
Cool truggy and video, but deans plug is still one of (if not the the most) used one in the world. Remember this hobby isn´t just about US and about super high end stuff. Most 2-3s combos and affordable vehicles of any sort use this and its totally ok.
Fair enough. I really only have a US perspective and from that perspective Dean's plugs are almost never seen anymore in anything other than little 1/12 scale cars.
@@DoRC Your videos are great and I really didnt mean it as a bad thing, I love them a lot and keep up the good work for the community! I live in Europe and here a lot of 1/18 - 1/10 cars and batteries are with Deans. There is one thing I am curious (maybe I am total misfit lol) a lot of creators dislike phillips hardware. Do you thing thats a trend in RC or it has a real reason? I stripped multiple small hex screw heads but never phillips on RC, just finding out if im an anomaly lol :D.
@@SuperKozykozy I've actually looked into it a bit further and apparently Dean's has a website up now and they're claiming 90 amps continuous 150 amps peak for their ultra connector. I might have to take another look at it.
Yeah I honestly was a little concerned when I saw the small wheels and power system that it just wasn't up to the task but it definitely proved me wrong. I highly doubt they intended this car to be triple back flipping 15 ft in the air but it does :-)
Never heard of this brand but looks decent. Electronics are extremely lacking though. This class of RC cars is extremely saturated so I usually just stick to the big brands (except Traxxas, I don’t buy anything Traxxas). I was pleasantly surprised at how durable my Talion was. I had a friend who had a slanted oval track with huge jumps and other than bearings and the servo it was a champion
They've actually been around quite a while and they're pretty big over in Europe they just don't have a huge presence here. The MTX that came out with about a year ago was one of the most durable monster trucks I've ever tested.
I'd love to see what parts are compatible with the 1.0, currently trying to figure out if the cost of freshening up my 1.0 is enough to just justify getting a 2.0
I've actually done some more research since making a video and apparently they get their bad reputation because of all the clones out there. Based on their website the genuine deans connectors are rated at 90 amps continuous which is crazy. Unfortunately most connectors you get are not genuine deans and are really inconsistent.
What about the shocks bottoming out with the larger wheels/tyres? People forget that you can't really go up much above stock without destroying your shocks.
I was looking forward to a full teardown of this truck, not a fan of the work to get at the rear diff tho as I enjoy testing out different diff fluids which would be a hassle. Also what is the diameter of the Castle motor, I guess it was the max size that the car can take without moving the esc?
My psa. Do not use serated wheel nuts. Been using the with nylon locks and they always spin off fast and lose the wheel nut, hex, and pin. They also damage the plastic wheels with usage. Use a flat wheel nut with nylock but use medium threadlock and let it dry for 24hrs.
I use flanged, serrated, nylocks, for 10th scales.... we race often and change tires often, they are the best, and I don't worry about marring up the wheel from the serrations....
Do you really re-use your wheels and re-tread the tires, or are you just a baby? It's thick plastic, you're not wearing thru it with wheel nuts, and nobody can see the marks anyway because they're under the wheel nut. What are you trying to protect us against? Having fun? My tires don't last long enough to worry about thick plastic in the wheel getting microscopically shaved down over the course of a century. Maybe you work for LocTite and this is how you guys do free marketing. I already own LocTite and I still don't use it on wheel nuts. Works fine even at 60mph.
@@Boogie_the_cat such a bad attitude. I hope your getting professional help. Lol, you know more than one company makes threadlock than loctite. I never mentioned a brand. As for the rest. Again, seek help.
To be honest I'm not sure that would be very impressive. I sell most of the cars I get to afford to buy more cars and my workstation is literally a piece of plywood in a closet :-)
That's a tough one. I think out of the box it is better as far as the drivetrain is concerned though the electronics probably aren't quite as good. I think the servo saver system is better as well. Obviously you're not going to have as many upgrade options and spare parts will be harder to come by. You'll also end up probably needing to get bigger tires if you want to have similar ground clearance. Overall I'd say they're both good cars and they're different enough that I would just pick whichever one you like best :-) I don't think you'd be disappointed with either one of them.
It's probably not permanently discontinued. They are probably working on rolling out the next version of all of these vehicles which is why a lot of them are out of stock.
Hmmm. The roller is definitely the best looking option. Especially when the rtr is so below spec. Traxxas vxl pricing for barely better performance than the BL 2s. I would’ve expected at least a 3660 and 100 amp esc for 399
True but this also is a lot nicer than a Traxxas VXL. For just general bashing around the stock system does feel adequate though yeah it would be nice to have something a bit bigger
I think Hobao missed the mark a little with this by not putting a bigger motor in it and bigger more basher orientated tyres, at least they have a roller version as you say. Some side skirts would have been a good idea as well
I completely agree. With how nice this thing is and how durable it is if they had put some slightly bigger tires on there and a decent power system as well as maybe even made the body a little bit more fancy this could have been marketed as a very different vehicle.
@@Luke-en2tk for sure. I'm kind of surprised they don't put more effort into that part of it. The performance of the car is important but a lot of people buy RC cars strictly based on how they look.
If this new updated platform catches on well, maybe they will release s more basher type minster truck version... The original, and now this one, I think is more intended to be a race truck. My son and I will have an ARR coming soon and we will he putting it through it's paces as a race vehicle, seeing how it fares against the Tekno ET410 trucks and Xray XT4 trucks in mini-truggy class. Can't wait for it to get here, deciding on electronics package now, and making a small list of things to pick up for it, extra wheels, maybe front arms and hinge pins? From this video and a couple others, I think it will survive well enough.
@kevinb729 Yeah I sell most of the cars I buy. It's the only way I can afford to buy more cars :-) I can't afford to have a big collection that just sits around. I usually just sell them locally on Facebook.
HoBao is definitely a bit underrated, but those electronics do seem a bit cheap. They should have gone with a 90-100A 3S ESC and it probably would have given the motor a bit more punch. 60A is pretty low for a 3S System. And that Servo broke so quickly and the hit wasn't even that bad. One thing I gotta ask tho: why would you record your official speed run (GPS active and such) in the tall grass that you know is slowing the truck down? I mean the point of a speed test is to test its top speed right? But you didn't even test its top speed lol 🤣. It seems like that little dirt road has some smooth spots, I would say a speed run on that dirt would be way more valid and make way more sense - just sayin. I might snag one of these but I feel 4S is a bit much for a lightweight 1/10 Truggy so I might just gear up with slightly taller tires + 1-2 more teeth on the pinion and run it until the Motor/ESC blows up and then get a Proper HobbyWing 36x65mm 3200KV Motor (3S) + 140A (4S) ESC Combo and run it on 3S with the correct gearing.
I tested it in the grass because there's a giant puddle right in the middle of the road so I couldn't test it there. I could have moved to a different location but to be honest with you it was like 500° out and I was melting :-) as far as all out top speed though I like to do an off-road top speed test because that's how most people are going to be bashing these things so it gives a more real-world representation rather than what the all-out ideal top speed is. I do agree that a bit better ESC from the factory definitely would have been a good idea.
@@DoRC Ah I see. Ya man these heat is insane lately Im in SLC last couple weeks have been 105+ on most days. Ugh, the desert lol 😆. Desert is fun as hell for RC, not so much for heat lol 🤣
The price is more than the LC Racing one that everybody and his brother has copied. It certainly isn't something to compare to a Rustler 4x4, which has EASY parts availability and a proven record. If they expect to take on such highly proven vehicles, they need to start chopping the price down.
It's a racing truck, not a basher. That was painful to watch. Id much prefer to see someone fitting the TT 2.0 out with lghtweight carbon and alu tuning upgrades and then taking it to a track to see how it hangs with the Teknos etc.
I can definitely understand your preference but this is a bashing channel and I've actually found that racing trucks often make better bashers than bashing trucks do. They're usually built very well and handle really well. One of my all-time favorite bashers is a a Tekno.
It's a shame about this car because it is a beauty.. but it is clear to me that these guys are having a hard time competing with the likes of Arrma and Traxxas. Perhaps they should commandeer some of their design team.. they can show these boys how to make an RTR..To me this car is on par with Redcat quality or maybe even Laegendary..
Yep I do but I don't race so I can only review it from the frame of reference of a basher. The reality is though that a lot of these cars will end up getting bashed So I think it's worth evaluating from that point of view :-)
Hard to know for sure but I would expect the tekno to be better overall. Once You've purchased the kit tires paint electronics and everything You're going to be well over double the cost of this with the ET so I would hope it's better :-)
Did you seem to make good quality stuff. As with a lot of these vehicles it does look better in person as long as you don't stare at it too long from the front :-)
Yeah after seeing the tear down. These cars are wltoys 2.0. 9000 screws later I'm good never again. If I want cheap and badass hbx. I've got one that's four years old, never greased a thing, never tore it apart, always driven hard, skate parks, job sites, the beach, hunting, you name it and I send it like I hate it. I do believe it was you that told me to check them out and I'm still not disappointed. Thanks brother.
HBX does do well on the budget end. These are a bit annoying to take apart but fortunately the differential seem pretty strong so I don't think you'd have to take them apart too often.
Unsurprising, another fantastic review! I have always liked Hobao RC cars, I had a couple of nitro buggies and a nitro truggy, they were always super durable.
Yeah I think I've had four or five of their vehicles now and I've been happy with every one of them
Love these truggies. Disappointed to see how much work is involved just to get the diffs out. Surely they could have made that easier - they’ve had a decade or more since the first version, plenty of time to improve the design.
Great video mate 💪🤘
They definitely could have made it easier but it would have required completely redesigning that part of the car which I guess they didn't want to do. Fortunately It seems like the differentials are pretty strong so you probably won't be digging in there too often.
The teardown is sexy. You show with holding the comments what you paid for it. For me, you help the community a lot
Thanks Glad you enjoy!
DO RC Is definitely one of the best and not many do this at all. I also really appreciate the effort and how through he is all the time.
I'm usually not interested in a rc until you tear it down and give a pre analysis on what may ot may not go wrong. Imma add this one to my "to buy eventually" list
Excellent teardown bro
For the price it's a pretty cool car. It's relatively well built and has some nice detail that makes it fun to look at and fun to work on. Definitely worth getting.
Nice to see something new from Hobao! Great tear-down video as usual! You go further than RCDriver and that is saying something.
Thanks glad you enjoy!
Absolutely epic vid! This truck looks insane and as usual a tank just like all the other Hobao cars out there. I have been a fan of Hobao for years and its a real shame they dont get the credit they deserve. I love my SSTE and would pick that over any Traxxas or Arrma anyday! Will have to get one of these soon!
Yeah I would definitely recommend it. It's a lot of fun and just like any of their vehicles really nicely built.
That is always my favorite way to work when I find something missing and have to take it back apart I love double work 😄😄 That was a good catch on the motor that was insanely loose
Yeah you would think after 20 years in the hobby I wouldn't do that sort of thing but especially when I'm recording it happens more frequently than I would like.
The design of the wheel nuts is exactly correct. I had nyloc flanged nuts with smooth bottoms on my HPI RS4 Mini back in the late ’90s and never had a wheel fall off.
The other option is to use serrated nuts without nyloc. I only use those now and I lube the threads. Never had one fall off, either.
The reason why you want one or the other - not both - is that there’s an ever so slight amount of movement between the axle and pin, pin and hex, and hex and wheel.
When the nyloc nut is secured to the axle threads, you want to allow the wheel to rotate that tiny amount on the axle without moving the nut. Hence the smooth surface.
And when the serrations lock the nut to the wheel, you want to allow the nut to rotate along with the wheel so the bond doesn’t break. So we don’t want thread lock or nyloc there. Grease is preferable.
Maybe though the vast majority of 1/10 scale and smaller vehicles these days including everything from Traxxas and Arrma use both nylock and serrations.
I think Traxxas and Arrma might be catering to consumers who believe you need both. And I guess it works well enough so there’s no harm.
Ideally, you should only need one or the other. My Kyosho Turbo Scorpion came with nyloc wheel nuts with smooth bottoms. Kyosho, HPI, and HoBao at least used to be racing brands (Ofna has a worlds title under its belt) so I find it hard to believe it’s a coincidence they chose this exact type of fastener.
Modern 1/10 racing trucks and buggies use serrated low-profile nuts exclusively: Team Associated, TLR, Xray, Schumacher, Yokomo… Also the RTR vehicles from AE use serrated nuts without nyloc.
It could be that racing vehicles see so much removing the wheels and putting them on again that nyloc would start losing its grip in that application. Also since the vehicle width is regulated the low profile nuts help get maximum track width.
As long as our wheels don’t fall off we’re happy racing or bashing or whatever it is that you like.
Best thing about Hobao are their diffs. The tt and 10SC use sized 1/8 diffs. You can apply 6s power and the drive train can handle it. With this update seems like the suspension is better suited for modern abuse. I wonder if they’ll make an update to the 10SC as well.
They might have been oversized 10 years ago but these days I'd say they're just adequate. Most 110 scale vehicles are using larger differentials than what you see in here.
I little bit expensive but well worth it. I have a Vs buggy its freakin amazing. Im getting that 2.0 next. They have absolutely erned my business! Well built quality parts cars and trucks! Hobao is a great brand!
Yeah they definitely make nice stuff!
Great video I love your jokes. Hopefully everyone understood them. That was amazing. Thank you. Gonna purchase mine today.
I'm sure not everyone gets all of them but as long as a few people appreciate them I'm happy :-)
_For anyone wondering.. I have found that this is a killer option as a step up from the super popular Arrma Grom line of RC's!_
That's definitely a big step up!
@@DoRC _😅Naaah... most who have the groms are either running them completely OEM or modding them to the moon like you would do, then get bored with it and want something that can exhibit similar extreme performance but in a bigger form. That is difficult to achieve as you step up in scale! As nimble as this one is.. I think this is probably a great option! I am also amazed by how durable it is!_
@@DoRC _I think this is more of a __1:12__ than a tenth!_
_Kraton 4S, Maxx... they dwarf this one!_
@@DoRC _Is this a standard size servo or a special 1/10 scale size servo?_
Hobao make some of the best RCs you can get.!! 👍 👍 👍
I've got 6 of them & I love each one of them.!
Their 1/8 scale rigs are especially good.!
I always get their 80% ARTR Rolling chassis versions.
I've yet to blow a differential on any of them, my oldest one is over 5 years old (GTS), I've ran it hard & often on 6S & it's still about 95% original.!
Get yourself a Hobao, you won't regret it.!
Yeah they definitely seem to make a good quality product. Some of their parts seem like they should be undersized but are extremely durable. I think it's all about the materials quality
Loved the footage on the stock configuration running! This thing floated through those bumps!
Cool tough rig!
Imagine the results on doubling the power on the new Losi... 😁
I wouldn't even consider trying it :-) thanks for watching!
8:23 I subscribed only for teardown vids.
Plenty more to come!
I was messing around last week with spare parts and ended up with a wide kit granite , 17mm hexes not extenders and 4s backflips . No rubbing , it’s fun for jumps but can tip over like before the wide kit with the 1” taller tires . The chassis just can bottom out , barely but it does . It’s a lot of fun so far . I ll switch back to the original tires when something goes or if it’s getting too hot .
Sounds like a fun setup
Hybrid caps on bladder type shocks are smart because you can set the polymer eyelet in place and then screw on the aluminium collar without trapping air under the cap.
Single-piece caps annoy me to no end on bladder type shocks. I vividly imagine all that air trapped under the cap as I’m screwing it down and I don’t sleep well after that. They are the only way to go on emulsion shocks, but then we have bleed screws and happy thoughts.
Yeah there's always going to be a little bit of air in there though most bladder type shock caps will have a little hole in the side just below where the bladder itself sits so most trapped air can get out.
Nice teardown of the car, I dont race but still interesting. Thanks!
Neither do I but this makes a pretty fun basher!
Love all of your videos! Keep up the good work and you'll be on top.
Thanks glad you're enjoying!
Nice been watching this truck for some time now. I would suggest looking into oil and geometry setups for 1/10 4wd truggys though, on a grass track like your terain guys only use for example 7-10-3k setup in much heavier 1/8 buggys. Than you can unlock its full potential handeling wise with the stock tires for sure, unless your just gonna send it hahaha than id go for 1milion too for propper backflips
Yeah if you're using it for racing or something like that I'm sure the setup can be improved. I'm just a basher though so for me thicker center differential fluid and off she goes :-)
Nice car! I would probably go for the roller since I have some esc/motor combos lying around.
Yeah given that the platform definitely seems like it can handle more power and the stock system isn't exactly a powerhouse That would probably be the way to go
Wow! The 2.0 looks great, some really nice stuff on the chassis. I really like the closed gearboxes, how many times have you taken a gearbox off an Arrma and found a bunch of dirt and debris on the gears? I have to say, out of the box, meh. But with the power upgrade, oh yeah!! For me, this might just be the ultimate 1/10 truggy. I would throw a HW 3660/3665 combo, say 3200kv, 3s, better track worthy tires.. oh man!! I'm not a ramp guy, I like track running, which this thing looks perfect for! Great job on the video as always brother!!👌🍻
I think this is primarily designed as a track vehicle so it should work well for that.
Redcat next please 🎉
It's on its way!
@@DoRCyour the best 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Mine is scheduled to be here Monday and the new tires to replace the tiny ones it comes with tomorrow. I hope it's as good as the Vigilante has been.
@DoRC Looks like a real winner from the initial looks of it doesn't it? I'm definitely impressed with it before getting one hands on. Especially at that price.
Glad to see how your channel is growing 😊
Me too Just crossed 20,000 subs!
7:28 this is why everyone needs to go through every screw on a RTR truck
Fortunately lately most RTR is that I've gotten have been fine. This is the first one I've found in a while that was literally falling apart out of the box. It is always good to give them a once-over though
RTR = ready to rebuild
I’d recommend moving the esc regardless. Having the esc and motor so close together like that is horrible for thermals. I’ve overheated both vxl escs and hobbywing max10 sct escs when stacked in the default configuration this and traxxas like to use. However moving the esc a bit further away by mounting it on the receiver box area with the slash/rustler 4x4 brings the temps down on both dramatically.
Yeah if temps are a problem that's definitely something to consider. At least so far though I haven't had any temperature issues with this setup.
Awesome breakdown definitely a contender 😊
Yeah I was surprised at how well it held up. Honestly I fully expected to break it. These modern cars are getting tough enough that I might need to build a bigger ramp soon :-)
@@DoRC definitely 💯
@@rcjoe406 thanks for watching!
You did good! I love the 10bl120, super power great job!
It definitely hits the sweet spot between price and performance for a lot of little cars!
It’s like a whole new truck with new tires and more powerful electronics. Amazing they sell a Roller version as well.
Yep it's only 279. If you've got the electronics on hand it's a pretty sweet deal.
Looks like the roller is the way to go 👍
For a lot of people it will be. The stock system isn't terrible but the platform can definitely handle more and is a lot more fun with more :-)
hilarious, awesome teardown and overhaul. Have you ever tried spraying conformal coat on the pcb in the servo?
Yes I have conformally coated the boards on servos before. It's usually better to seal the case externally though
I love what I see, nice video.
We have an ARR headed our way soon. It will be destined for the racetrack. Likely going to use a Tekin Pro2 motor that i believe is similar size to the castle you put in there... what KV is that motor and what gearing did you use?
I'm trying to decide what pinion to order and what other bits besides wheels that we might want. It will be raced, so 2S lipo, and likely 5100kv motor, they do make a 5800kv as well though, so we might just send it to the moon...
Thanks again for the video, amd input u have would be most appreciated.
Cheers.
This was a 3200 KV motor and I went stock with the pinion so 13 tooth. Seemed pretty good on 4s. The stock motor is 3,900KV and runs on 3S which also feels pretty appropriately geared.
Nice truck, would love to have one! 🤓🇦🇺
Yeah they're pretty cool!
You can get rollers here for £189 and I’ve been seriously considering one, I’ve got two spare 4S esc and three 3s motors laying spare. Reminds me a lot of my Vorteks but way cheaper to build without the metal diff costs etc
That's a pretty good deal!
Cool truggy and video, but deans plug is still one of (if not the the most) used one in the world. Remember this hobby isn´t just about US and about super high end stuff. Most 2-3s combos and affordable vehicles of any sort use this and its totally ok.
Fair enough. I really only have a US perspective and from that perspective Dean's plugs are almost never seen anymore in anything other than little 1/12 scale cars.
@@DoRC Your videos are great and I really didnt mean it as a bad thing, I love them a lot and keep up the good work for the community! I live in Europe and here a lot of 1/18 - 1/10 cars and batteries are with Deans. There is one thing I am curious (maybe I am total misfit lol) a lot of creators dislike phillips hardware. Do you thing thats a trend in RC or it has a real reason? I stripped multiple small hex screw heads but never phillips on RC, just finding out if im an anomaly lol :D.
@@SuperKozykozy I've actually looked into it a bit further and apparently Dean's has a website up now and they're claiming 90 amps continuous 150 amps peak for their ultra connector. I might have to take another look at it.
I'm genuinely impressed by the abuse it survived.
I gotta look more into this nice little truggy.
Yeah I honestly was a little concerned when I saw the small wheels and power system that it just wasn't up to the task but it definitely proved me wrong. I highly doubt they intended this car to be triple back flipping 15 ft in the air but it does :-)
Never heard of this brand but looks decent. Electronics are extremely lacking though. This class of RC cars is extremely saturated so I usually just stick to the big brands (except Traxxas, I don’t buy anything Traxxas). I was pleasantly surprised at how durable my Talion was. I had a friend who had a slanted oval track with huge jumps and other than bearings and the servo it was a champion
They've actually been around quite a while and they're pretty big over in Europe they just don't have a huge presence here. The MTX that came out with about a year ago was one of the most durable monster trucks I've ever tested.
I wonder how well it would work for an on-road car. Many 1/10 road cars do NOT have a center diff, that imo would make those cars handle better.
I'd imagine pretty well. It's pretty low and doesn't have a lot of body roll so it would likely be pretty fun on road.
I'd love to see what parts are compatible with the 1.0, currently trying to figure out if the cost of freshening up my 1.0 is enough to just justify getting a 2.0
That would be interesting unfortunately I don't have a 1.0. I know quite a few things have changed but I'm sure there are some compatible parts.
Deans connectors are fine on 4S or lower in my experience. I guess it depends on amperage though. Never had an issue with deans
I've actually done some more research since making a video and apparently they get their bad reputation because of all the clones out there. Based on their website the genuine deans connectors are rated at 90 amps continuous which is crazy. Unfortunately most connectors you get are not genuine deans and are really inconsistent.
@@DoRC ahh that makes sense. I've ever only had genuine t plugs.
My favorite company that most people don't bother with and they don't know what they're missing
Yeah I've been pretty happy with just about everything that they have made at least recently
Nice review “ did they give you extra incerts for the hinge pin blocks , it looks like what TLR typhon did and it’s a way to a adjust cast csnber
@RcPlayer-tt2vw yes it comes with extra pills.
Nice that’s what they’re called pills 😂
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw :)
I’m impressed I thought stock it would be like a seal 🦭 dragging its belly along the floor
To some degree it is and that's just a function of the tires but it still gets around pretty good
If I could get a seal for $350 that would be a good deal.
@@Boogie_the_cat this made me laugh
@tepidwheelsRC :)
This was pretty cool.
Glad you enjoyed :-)
One of your best to date! Do you know if these ever go on sale?
Unfortunately I don't know.
What about the shocks bottoming out with the larger wheels/tyres? People forget that you can't really go up much above stock without destroying your shocks.
Fortunately this car has plenty of shock headroom. The chassis still bottoms out first with the larger tires.
I was looking forward to a full teardown of this truck, not a fan of the work to get at the rear diff tho as I enjoy testing out different diff fluids which would be a hassle. Also what is the diameter of the Castle motor, I guess it was the max size that the car can take without moving the esc?
36 mm
On 4S, what kv castle motor were you using and which pinion? In the UK the price on this is very competitive. Works out at $235 for the roller.
3200 KV and a 13 tooth pinion.
My psa. Do not use serated wheel nuts. Been using the with nylon locks and they always spin off fast and lose the wheel nut, hex, and pin. They also damage the plastic wheels with usage.
Use a flat wheel nut with nylock but use medium threadlock and let it dry for 24hrs.
They do make marks in the wheel but the vast majority of wheel nuts out there these days are serrated and they work really well in general.
I use flanged, serrated, nylocks, for 10th scales.... we race often and change tires often, they are the best, and I don't worry about marring up the wheel from the serrations....
Do you really re-use your wheels and re-tread the tires, or are you just a baby?
It's thick plastic, you're not wearing thru it with wheel nuts, and nobody can see the marks anyway because they're under the wheel nut.
What are you trying to protect us against? Having fun?
My tires don't last long enough to worry about thick plastic in the wheel getting microscopically shaved down over the course of a century.
Maybe you work for LocTite and this is how you guys do free marketing.
I already own LocTite and I still don't use it on wheel nuts. Works fine even at 60mph.
@@Boogie_the_cat such a bad attitude. I hope your getting professional help.
Lol, you know more than one company makes threadlock than loctite. I never mentioned a brand.
As for the rest. Again, seek help.
I remember when they were called Ofna in the US.
Yeah I'm not sure when they changed the name
What size motor is that? Btw nice video 👍🏻
It's a 36 mm diameter about 60 mm long motor.
Do you think you could do a video? Where are you? Show us your RC collection and workstation?
To be honest I'm not sure that would be very impressive. I sell most of the cars I get to afford to buy more cars and my workstation is literally a piece of plywood in a closet :-)
@@DoRC yeah that’s probably what I would do. If I was reviewing a lot of cars cause I just add up to be way too many.
@@DoRC love your videos keep them up!!
How does this compare to the Arrma vorteks? I thinks it’s better due to an all metal drive train
That's a tough one. I think out of the box it is better as far as the drivetrain is concerned though the electronics probably aren't quite as good. I think the servo saver system is better as well. Obviously you're not going to have as many upgrade options and spare parts will be harder to come by. You'll also end up probably needing to get bigger tires if you want to have similar ground clearance. Overall I'd say they're both good cars and they're different enough that I would just pick whichever one you like best :-) I don't think you'd be disappointed with either one of them.
Looks kinda like a racing truggy
It pretty much is.
I’m surprised you haven’t made a video about the leaks of Castle’s new motor lol
Me too. I haven't heard about it
@@DoRCthey posted on Instagram a bigger motor next to their 20 series
Just missed the boat on the Talion. Maybe they'll do a Grom variant?
It's probably not permanently discontinued. They are probably working on rolling out the next version of all of these vehicles which is why a lot of them are out of stock.
@@DoRC Patience it is then! 🙂
Talion has been coming and going for years now. I bet we’ll see another 6S talion sometime this year
Hmmm. The roller is definitely the best looking option. Especially when the rtr is so below spec. Traxxas vxl pricing for barely better performance than the BL 2s. I would’ve expected at least a 3660 and 100 amp esc for 399
True but this also is a lot nicer than a Traxxas VXL. For just general bashing around the stock system does feel adequate though yeah it would be nice to have something a bit bigger
When will they be released? Available for purchase
I'm honestly not sure. I thought they were already available but I guess not yet.
Did you keep the box?
I still have it for now.
I think Hobao missed the mark a little with this by not putting a bigger motor in it and bigger more basher orientated tyres, at least they have a roller version as you say. Some side skirts would have been a good idea as well
I completely agree. With how nice this thing is and how durable it is if they had put some slightly bigger tires on there and a decent power system as well as maybe even made the body a little bit more fancy this could have been marketed as a very different vehicle.
@@DoRC yes the body design and wing are looking a bit dated now
@@Luke-en2tk for sure. I'm kind of surprised they don't put more effort into that part of it. The performance of the car is important but a lot of people buy RC cars strictly based on how they look.
If this new updated platform catches on well, maybe they will release s more basher type minster truck version...
The original, and now this one, I think is more intended to be a race truck. My son and I will have an ARR coming soon and we will he putting it through it's paces as a race vehicle, seeing how it fares against the Tekno ET410 trucks and Xray XT4 trucks in mini-truggy class.
Can't wait for it to get here, deciding on electronics package now, and making a small list of things to pick up for it, extra wheels, maybe front arms and hinge pins? From this video and a couple others, I think it will survive well enough.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 oh it's definitely built as a race truck but at least based on my experience it can take some bashing to.
Sorry I made that outta the xxl chassis I’ll drop a short video of it if you want to check it out talion body fits perfect with new front holes
Definitely send me a link when you upload it.
Deans connectors are superior in all ways except plugging/unplugging lol... unless you're running something like a quad-copter.
They're only rated for 60 amps which really isn't enough for most modern basher applications.
@@DoRC Deans are 75/150, but will fry a system in a heartbeat if not careful.
@@xeNVMex I've never seen that high of rating for them. Do you have a link to that spec?
@@DoRC no single links, just a CoPilot search, and a google search about 3 pages or so deep to skip sponsored stuff.
@@DoRC Google/CoPilot searches (per usual the first few results may be sponsored)
My hyper vs pro came with way too much threadlocker and I destroyed my tools trying to get it apart. 😂
It's always a fine balance :-)
It’s a smaller version of the SSTe Hobao had. Wish they still made it
Yeah this is a good little car. I don't keep very many cars after I'm done reviewing them but I think this one's going to be sticking around a while.
@@DoRC I wasn’t aware you didn’t keep them. Do you sell them? If so where, because I buy frequently and would trust getting a vehicle from you.
@kevinb729 Yeah I sell most of the cars I buy. It's the only way I can afford to buy more cars :-) I can't afford to have a big collection that just sits around. I usually just sell them locally on Facebook.
@@DoRC gotcha well I would be very interested
@kevinb729 Hobao still sells the SSTE Truggy, they have a RTR and a roller.
HoBao is definitely a bit underrated, but those electronics do seem a bit cheap. They should have gone with a 90-100A 3S ESC and it probably would have given the motor a bit more punch. 60A is pretty low for a 3S System. And that Servo broke so quickly and the hit wasn't even that bad. One thing I gotta ask tho: why would you record your official speed run (GPS active and such) in the tall grass that you know is slowing the truck down? I mean the point of a speed test is to test its top speed right? But you didn't even test its top speed lol 🤣. It seems like that little dirt road has some smooth spots, I would say a speed run on that dirt would be way more valid and make way more sense - just sayin.
I might snag one of these but I feel 4S is a bit much for a lightweight 1/10 Truggy so I might just gear up with slightly taller tires + 1-2 more teeth on the pinion and run it until the Motor/ESC blows up and then get a Proper HobbyWing 36x65mm 3200KV Motor (3S) + 140A (4S) ESC Combo and run it on 3S with the correct gearing.
I tested it in the grass because there's a giant puddle right in the middle of the road so I couldn't test it there. I could have moved to a different location but to be honest with you it was like 500° out and I was melting :-) as far as all out top speed though I like to do an off-road top speed test because that's how most people are going to be bashing these things so it gives a more real-world representation rather than what the all-out ideal top speed is.
I do agree that a bit better ESC from the factory definitely would have been a good idea.
@@DoRC Ah I see. Ya man these heat is insane lately Im in SLC last couple weeks have been 105+ on most days. Ugh, the desert lol 😆. Desert is fun as hell for RC, not so much for heat lol 🤣
@@wallacengineering8096 Yeah summertime for me is the worst time of year for bashing. Definitely looking forward to it cooling off.
The price is more than the LC Racing one that everybody and his brother has copied. It certainly isn't something to compare to a Rustler 4x4, which has EASY parts availability and a proven record. If they expect to take on such highly proven vehicles, they need to start chopping the price down.
Maybe. Honestly they don't really build for the US market primarily so what they do can seem a little odd over here.
Did you run it on 3s?
Yes the first run was on 3S.
Quelle huile pour les dif ?
I'm sorry I'm not sure what language this is.
@@DoRC pour les différentiel qu'elle huile à mettre
Redcat Valkyrie plz
It's in transit :-)
@@DoRC awesome! I hope to get one on order either today or tomorrow. $299 is too hard to pass up
It's a racing truck, not a basher. That was painful to watch.
Id much prefer to see someone fitting the TT 2.0 out with lghtweight carbon and alu tuning upgrades and then taking it to a track to see how it hangs with the Teknos etc.
I can definitely understand your preference but this is a bashing channel and I've actually found that racing trucks often make better bashers than bashing trucks do. They're usually built very well and handle really well. One of my all-time favorite bashers is a a Tekno.
It's a shame about this car because it is a beauty.. but it is clear to me that these guys are having a hard time competing with the likes of Arrma and Traxxas. Perhaps they should commandeer some of their design team.. they can show these boys how to make an RTR..To me this car is on par with Redcat quality or maybe even Laegendary..
I'd have to disagree. I think this is very high quality. What don't you think is high quality about it?
The design mostly..I guess I'm spoiled with the ease of Arrmas..I'd grab a Talion first. My buddy's is indestructible@@DoRC
That being said Arrma has dropped the ball in the 1/10 truggy... I guess if you have to have a 10th scale truggy... This is it
BTW... Are you in Florida?
@@tooleyzrc1973 ah. Yeah it definitely has fallen behind on repairability. Overall though it's a really nice little car
What Is the diameter on stock tyres?
They are 4 inches in diameter
@DoRC lovely thank you
You do realise it’s aimed as a rtr race buggy and not a basher?
Yep I do but I don't race so I can only review it from the frame of reference of a basher. The reality is though that a lot of these cars will end up getting bashed So I think it's worth evaluating from that point of view :-)
How do you think this stacks up to tekno et 410.2? Would love to see this thing on a track
Hard to know for sure but I would expect the tekno to be better overall. Once You've purchased the kit tires paint electronics and everything You're going to be well over double the cost of this with the ET so I would hope it's better :-)
First!!! 2 minutes ago!
:)
@@DoRCcan I please get a pin?!?!
I’d skip this and get the new Redcat MT
Mine's on the way :-)
@@DoRC after all the reviews I'll get the Valkyrie mt
@@rccarsandmusic2641 mine should be here Tuesday :-)
$399 is too much for a $150 car
Why is this a $150 car?
Yay I love it I’m the first comment
Welcome and thanks for watching!
@@DoRC ya love watching the vids
@@Carterw915 your second
@@CJTJBI1 no
@@Carterw915 liar!!!
Underwhelmed
About what part specifically?
I'm loving what I see, ARR headed our way and destined for the race track...
Especially engineering. Too complex and a bit outdated. Speed wasn't impressive either.
Hobao seems to make some good cars but man they're ugly imo
Did you seem to make good quality stuff. As with a lot of these vehicles it does look better in person as long as you don't stare at it too long from the front :-)
Do you make videos about wargames.miniatures as well....?
I do not.